Skin research center performs efficacy tests of dermocosmetics. BIO-EC can evaluate efficacy of a cosmetic product using ex vivo model of living human skin explants or in vivo studies on volunteers. Substantiation of various cosmetic claims: anti-ageing, hydration, skin barrier, pigmentation/whitening, solar protection, anti-pollution, anti-blue light, photoprotection, wound healing, lipogenesis, capillary, skin microbiota, anti-acne, antibacterial.
For almost 20 years we have been evaluating efficacy of cosmetic products due to various techniques:
- ex vivo living human skin explants with histological analysis, target immunostaining and biochemical assays;
- in vivo studies conducted on healthy volunteers (efficacy tests, use tests, etc). If necessary, we can form specific panels of volunteers (ethnic, acne, dry skin, dermatose-tended skin);
- detailed studies of tissue distribution of products with RAMAN spectroscopy;
- cutaneous absorption: kinetics of product penetration through human skin (with Franz cells);
- gene expression monitoring to identify all the biological effects of a product (whole genome expression analysis by DNA microarray or RT-qPCR of targeted genes).
We have developped two innovative systems: Pollubox system allows to evaluate anti-pollution effects of cosmetic products; with Solarbox system we can assess efficacy of products protecting from negative effects of visible/blue light.
3. ex vivo studies
Human skin Living human skin explants • Histological analysis
• Immunostaining
• Biochemical assay
• Gene expression
BRIDGING THE GAP BETWEEN in vitro & in vivo TESTS
▪ Ideal alternative model to animal tests
▪ Morphology, metabolism and barrier of a real human skin
▪ Reproduction of external conditions: pollution, sun, bacteria, wound…
▪ Skin barrier disorders (psoriasis, atopic dermatitis)
▪ Unique test window for living human skin: 2 weeks
4. WHITENING
SOLAR PROTECTION
ANTI-AGING
Young skin Aged skin Before UV irradiation After UV irradiation
Before UV irradiation After UV irradiation
Thymine dimers
Injured skin + ProductInjured skin
WOUND HEALING
Claims substantiation
General morphology
(Trichrome Masson staining)
General morphology
(Trichrome Masson staining)
Melanin staining
(Fontana Masson method)
8. Cleaning system
▪ LC3B : stabilizes the autophagosome
▪ P62 : substrate identifying the
damaged material
Studied parameters : protector, detoxifying, antipollution, solar protection…
Mitochondria degradation
▪ PINK1 : specific marker of the
selective mitochondria degradation
Exposition : UVs, pollution, environmental aggression's…
LC3B PINK1P62Thymine dimers
Autophagy Mitophagy
Genomic and proteomic analyses !
Our innovations
9. Stressosome
Stress combination
▪ Blue light
▪ Pollutants
▪ Cigarette smoke
▪ Ozone
▪ UVs…
Studied parameters : protein oxydation, DNA protection, dermis protection,
antioxydation…
Genomic and proteomic analyses !
MMP1 Coll I Fibrilline 1AHR
Our innovations
10. Explants + P. acnes
▪ B2-defensin : antimicrobial activity
▪ TLR-2 : activation of the innate immunity
▪ Cathelicidin LL-37: antimicrobial peptide
Studied parameters : antibacterial, microbiome friendly, prebiotic, probiotic…
In vitro I Ex vivo
▪ Product impact on bacterial growth
▪ Product impact on bacterial adhesion
▪ Product impact on biofilm formation
Exposition : commensal flora, opportunistic flora.
Acne Microbiota
CLL-37 S. epidermidis &
S. hominis mixed biofilm
B2-defensin TLR-2
Genomic and proteomic analyses !
Our innovations
11. Topography
Immediate effect
▪ Nanometer scale
▪ 3D measures
▪ Cutaneous surface modifications
▪ Tensor, straightener, filler effect.
Studied parameters : Depth, width, volume, roughness, film-forming effect …
Display of the profile line
→ 3D view of the skin surface
Tensor effect
Amplitude : -42%
Height: -34%
Depth: -17%
Filler effect
Amplitude : -34%
Height: -30%
Depth: -51%
Our innovations
12. ▪ Non-invasive, sensitive
▪ In vivo & ex vivo application
▪ Qualitative and semi-quantitative data
▪ Effects of an active on skin
▪ Penetration profile & tissue distribution
▪ Hydration on explants slides
▪ …
RAMAN spectroscopy
Diffusion of an active (ex vivo)
Why RAMAN spectroscopy:
Protein
pool
Lipid pool
Water
Effects of an active on the skin
Opened Tyrosine
I850
Closed Tyrosine
I830
Hydration
Distibution of NMF, carotenoids, proteins, lipids…
(surface sampling)
13. ▪ Specific panels (ethnic, acne, dry skin…)
▪ Studies are conducted in France under dermatological and ophthalmological control
▪ New clinical testing space with a controlled atmosphere
▪ Innovative surface sampling technique
▪ Guidance, management and innovation !
in vivo studies
Innovative surface
sampling technique
Specific panels:
ethnic, age, sex, dry skin
State-of-the-art
technologies
The specificity of BIO-EC :
14. in vivo studies
Before After
REPLICA OF THE SKIN SURFACE SIFLO®
Puffiness volume
3D IMAGES WITH AEVA HE®
Before After
Depth of wrinkles
FACE IMAGES WITH VISIA CR®
Wrinkles Texture
Well-structured Impaired
Skin microrelief
SKIN SURFACE SAMPLINGS
15. Cutaneous absorption
Quantité de produit dans le milieu receveur
Quantité de produit dans le derme
Quantité de produit restant à la surface de la peau.
Quantité de produit dans le stratum corneum
Quantité de produit dans l’épiderme
Quantity of product remaining at the surface
Quantity of product in the receiving medium
Quantity of product in the stratum corneum
Quantity of product in the epidermis
Quantity of product in the dermis
▪ Classical approach to evaluate transdermal diffusion of an
active/molecule through human skin ex vivo.
▪ Franz cells under automated control of MicroettePlus®
system.
▪ Study of the kinetics of penetration.
PRODUCT
TIME
