First two years 2011

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants
Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)
© Project SOUND

The First Two Years
in the Native Plant
Garden
C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake
CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Preserve
August 20 & 23, 2011
© Project SOUND

The first two years can be a little scary…..

© Project SOUND

…trust me, it’s even more scary for the plants!

 Nursery life is heavenly:
 Plenty of water
 Nice, appropriate, well-
drained potting soil
 Extra nutrients
 A little extra shade/
temperature control
 Pest-free
 Basically, a coddled life-
style that allows many of
them to survive infancy
(as they rarely would in
the wild)

© Project SOUND

What happens in nature? [Ceanothus]
Out in nature In the new garden
 A big disturbance –  A big disturbance – you remove
fire/etc. removes at existing plants
least the shoots of
existing plants  Plant Year 1 – the plant is established
in the nursery – likely more water,
 Plant Year 1 – with nutrients than in nature
adequate rainfall seeds
to sprout & establish new  Plant Year 2/Garden Year 1 – you plant
seedlings; root system your new Ceanothus in the garden –
develops what a shock! Some root/shoot
growth
 Plant Year 2 – chugging
right along expanding  Plant Year 3/Garden Year 2 –
roots & shoots developing good roots & shoots

 Plant Year 3 – pretty  Plant Year 4/Garden Year 3 – almost
much established established © Project SOUND

10 Lessons to help you – and your plants -
through the first two years

© Project SOUND

What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
 The period in which a new plant
becomes relatively self-sustaining
(when given it’s requirements) – a
gradual process
 Involves two aspects:
 Acclimating to the garden environment
 Developing sufficient root structure to
support and sustain the plant

 Generally, the plant becomes 2-3
times its planting size during this
Phase
 Plants require extra care during the
establishment phase
© Project SOUND

What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
 Length varies by species,
but some general rules of
thumb:
 Annuals: 1-2 months
 Herbaceous perennials: 1-3
years
 Perennial grasses: 1-2 years
 Local sub-shrubs: 1-2 years
 Woody shrubs & trees: 2-5
years; the larger & slower-
growing species take up to 5
years

© Project SOUND

What is required during the Establishment
Phase?

 Increased observation
– as with any baby
 Extra water during dry
periods – including
prolonged winter dry
spells and summer/fall
 Decreased competition
from other plants –
most notably weeds

© Project SOUND

Lesson 1: Plant with the seasons

© Project SOUND

What do we mean by ‘plant with the seasons’?

© Project SOUND

The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)

 Fall/winter rains (Dec-Mar)
 Seeds germinate (many)
 Begin above-ground stem growth
 Leaf out (may be ‘spring’ leaves)
 ‘early’ flowering – some species

 Spring warm/dry down period
(Apr-June)
 Seed germination (warm weather)
 Continue stem growth
 Many will flower

© Project SOUND

Advantages to planting during the rainy
season
 Saves water – soils are naturally
moist (Water Zone 3) during the
critical first few months
 Vulnerable plants get the best
water possible; dissolved oxygen
& nutrients
 Vulnerable plants are not
exposed to temperature
extremes (at least in the past)
 Soils are well-saturated –
promotes deep/wide root
growth
 Coincides with native plant’s
normal growth cycle; plants are
primed to grow at this time
© Project SOUND

How much do I need to water during the
first two years?

© Project SOUND

Lesson 2: Water to promote survival, not
abundant growth

© Project SOUND

Watering: the impact of
where we live

 Region 3-South Coastal
 Climate Zones 22, 23 & 24
 CIMIS ETo Zones 1, 2, 4
and 6

 Region 4-South Inland
Valleys and Foothills
 Climate Zones 18, 19, 20
and 21
 CIMIS ETo Zone 9

http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/docs/wucols00.pdf © Project SOUND

The benefits – and challenges – of where we live
 We can grow plants from a number of plant
communities:
 Wetland/riparian
 Northern coastal prairie/CSS
 Southern coastal prairie
 CSS
 Chaparral
 Southern oak woodland
 Mojave & Sonoran deserts

 We need to be aware of local weather patterns
 Winters may be overly dry – or wet
 Plants from some communities need more water than we usually
get – at least in the summer
© Project SOUND

Newly planted native plants should get a
thorough soaking

 Soak new plants no matter
what the planting season
 The first watering is
important – over-soak to
settle the soil & remove air
pockets
 Overhead watering is fine –
the plants will think it’s
raining

© Project SOUND

Treat new plants as Water Zone 3 for the
first winter/early spring (through April)
 Rains may do the job
 Check soil moisture, especially
if we have:
 Long period (3+ weeks) with no
winter rains
 Very hot periods (winter Santa
Anas)
 Strong winds (soil dries faster
than you think)
http://royrector.com/garden/?p=124
 Check beneath the surface
(under mulch) - ~ 3-4 inches
 Dig down with trowel
 Use a moisture meter or soil
sampler © Project SOUND
http://www.ecofitt.ca/Products/WaterProducts/Lawn-and-Garden/Soil-Moisture-Meter

So, we’ve gotten to June, and it’s starting
to get hot & dry….

© Project SOUND

The first dry season is crucial - and challenging

http://dharmaconsulting.com/products/accelerating-change/

 ‘Don’t under-water; plants can die before they
become established’
 ‘Don’t over water! It leads to the death of many
native plants; their roots suffocate & die of rot or
disease.’
© Project SOUND

We’ve been led to believe that all plants
grow like tropical plants…

http://www.kriyayoga.com/love_blog/post.php/950
© Project SOUND

…and now the native plant ‘experts’ are trying to give us
the same 1-2-3 gardening rules

http://kmgardendesign.com/Portfolio-CANativeGarden.htm

© Project SOUND

Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
their watering advice straight???

http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/

With CA native plants, one size does NOT fit all
© Project SOUND

Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
their watering advice straight???

 Your soils (and other
relevant conditions) may be
different
 They may be talking about
a different climate region
(often N. CA)
 They may be thinking
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/
about different species
which have different
You need to consider the
information source - and use the water needs
Water Zone principles
© Project SOUND

Gardens in Mediterranean climates
(including S. CA) have three Water Zones

 Zone 1 – no supplemental summer water; soils
are dry in summer/fall.
 Zone 2 – occasional summer water; soil is
allowed to dry out between waterings.
Watering is slow & deep to replenish the soil
water stores. In most gardens, you will water
deeply 1-2 times per month in summer.
 Zone 3 – regular water; soil is usually moist to
soggy, even in summer.
© Project SOUND

Water Result/consequence
Description Picture
Zone (for mature plants)
Many Zone 1 plants (including
many native to western L.A.
No supplemental
Zone 1 water county & deserts) become
summer dormant; some shade
species remain green

Includes ‘CA Natives’ from
Occasional water; many plant communities;
soil dries out occasional summer water
Zone 2 between deep helps many species to remain
waterings evergreen – many also extend
bloom season

Only native riparian and some
Regular water;
Zone 3 soil moist/ soggy mountain/N. CA species – will
kill many local CA natives

© Project SOUND

Water Zone Principles for the first 2 years

Interpretation: give more water  ‘Water to keep the plant
than the plant’s mature Water alive, not to make it grow
Zone – but as close to it as
fast. Try to make the
reasonable. Taper the amount
of water off as the root system plant drought tolerant!’
develops.
 ‘Watering less often and
more deeply to stimulate
Interpretation: follow good roots to grow deeper
Water Zone practices (e.g. water instead of on the surface
deeply and less frequently) even where they will be
during the first 2 years
susceptible to drying out.’

© Project SOUND

Why more water during the first year?

 Weaning from ‘nursery
conditions’ which
included plenty of water
 Less cover/shade =
higher evaporation rates
 Less developed/
efficient root systems -
< 10% of area covered by
roots

© Project SOUND

No two gardens are alike: that’s why you
need to monitor your soil moisture
 Check soil
moisture every 1-2
weeks during the
first year; water
as needed using
the ‘rules of
thumb’
 Remember: some
areas may dry out
more quickly
The only way you can assure that you are
watering correctly is to use the Water Zone
method and check your soils!
© Project SOUND

Watering rules of thumb -  Year 1:
 First winter/spring – Zone 3
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
 First summer/fall – one full
Water Zone more than it’s
mature Zone – decrease
slightly in Aug/Sept unless it
gets summer rain in nature
 Year 2:
 Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate
 Second summer/fall:
 Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
 All other perennial/woody
species: ½ Zone above mature
Zone – decrease slightly in
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Aug/Sept. unless it gets
occasional supplemental summer water summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND

The best ways to supply water during the
first two years – S. CA gardens

 Low frequency (1-4 times a
month), long duration (4-12 hours)
irrigation is best to thoroughly
soak the soil.

 Hose, drip, soaker hose or low
volume "micro“ sprinkler are
http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/save-money-and-water-with-smart-lawn-and-garden-tips-2009-08-17/
often good choices

 Use overhead watering very
carefully – don’t let leaves remain
moist in warm weather

 Do not water during the heat of
the day. Try very early morning
or evening (good in coastal areas)
© Project SOUND

http://www2.ljworld.com/photos/2009/aug/16/

Some more irrigation tips for watering young
native plants  For individual plants, drip irrigation or
hose watering is best. You can even use
a ‘Homer Bucket’ for individual plants.
 For large areas, micro-sprinklers or
soaker hoses are best – good flexibility,
control & coverage.
 Don’t forget to move the irrigation out
as roots grow; make sure that the
entire root system gets wet.
 Because conditions vary from garden to
garden, and even within gardens, the
best irrigation schedule is determined
by watching your plants. Manually set
each zone on the controller.
 Relax: in well-drained soils, water is not
typically an issue when the appropriate
plants are chosen for the site (i.e., full
sun, coastal...), and planting takes place
during the cool, rainy season
© Project SOUND

This class is about teaching you ‘how to fish’

http://www.clipartheaven.com/show/clipart/kids_stuff/images_(a_-_f)/fishing-gif.html

© Project SOUND

Bunchgrasses –  Year 1:
Water Zone 1-2 (rain alone may suffice)
 Year 2:
Deergrass – Muhlenbergia rigens shrubs: mature Water Zone
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
occasional supplemental summer water Aug/Sept. unless it gets
summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND

Why do bunchgrasses mature quickly
(have a short establishment Phase)?

 Perennial grasses tend to grow
quickly – they establish an
extensive root system the
first year
 They tend to have relatively
deep roots (3+ feet) compared
to non-native lawn grasses
 S. CA bunchgrasses tolerate
dry conditions really well

http://www.pitzer.edu/offices/arboretum/tongva_gard
en/plants/19-Muhlenbergia_rigens.htm
© Project SOUND

The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
 Dry period (June/July-Nov)
 Stem elongation (slower; may be
‘summer’ type growth pattern)
 Foliage: effect depends on species
 Evergreen plants usually produce no
new leaves – but retain leaves
 Many plants in some plant communities
(Coastal Sage Scrub; Coastal Prairie;
Coastal shrubland) are drought
deciduous
 Some plants from these communities
produce special ‘summer leaves’ that
may remain on the plant until late
summer
Why this variability & what  May leaf out & even flower if summer
does it mean for watering? rains/watering occur
© Project SOUND

A comparison of two shrubs
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral
Black Sage – Salvia mellifera Bigpod Ceanothus – C. megacarpus

© Project SOUND

California Black Sage – Salvia mellifera

Black Sage – Salvia mellifera
 A “CA coastal plant”
 Coastal ranges from San Jose to
Baja
 Channel Islands and Baja coastal
http://www.swsbm.com/Maps/Salvia_mellifera.gif
islands

 on South and West facing slopes
on rocky soil in California's
coastal sage scrub and chaparral
plant communities
 Often in slightly wetter sites
than other native Salvias
 Common; may form dense thickets
in wild

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?4745,4865,4880

http://www.cnps.org/programs/vegetation/Coyote_Ridge/images/10a_Artemisia_californica-Salvia_mellifera_SS.jpg

 Black Sage is one tough plant – and part of the reason is
it’s summer dormancy!!!!

Watering rules of thumb: Black Sage – Salvia mellifera –
Zone 1-2
 Year 1:
 First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
alone may suffice)
 First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
 Year 2:
 Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
 Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
 All other perennial/woody species:
½ Zone above mature Zone –
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus

© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus
 Coast of S. CA from
Santa Barbara to San
var. insularis Diego Co. – CA
endemic
 var. insularis – Channel
Isl. (Catalina & San
Clemente in south)
 var. megacarpus –
mainland (Santa Monica
Mtns our nearest)

var. megacarpus  Dry, chaparral slopes
below 2000 ft.

© Project SOUND

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Ceanothus+megacarpus+var.+insularis

Big-pod Ceanothus
 Soils:
is a chaparral shrub  Texture: rocky or sandy best
– needs well-drained soil
 pH: any local

 Light:
 Full sun to light shade
 Benefits from afternoon
shade in hot inland gardens

 Water:
 Winter: needs good winter
rains
 Summer: low needs – Zone 1-
2 (water very infrequently, if
at all, once established)

 Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils;
likes an organic mulch

© Project SOUND
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3275037528_782b3c6c8f.jpg?v=0

Ceanothus –  Year 1:
Water Zone 1-2  First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
alone may suffice)
 First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
unless it gets summer rains in
nature
 Year 2:
 Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
 Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/bigpodceanothus.html
 All other perennial/woody species:
½ Zone above mature Zone –
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
unless it gets summer rains in
occasional supplemental summer water
nature © Project SOUND

Comparison of yearly cycle: CSS vs Chaparral

 Environmental  Environmental
 Lower total moisture/rain  Higher total moisture
 Rain & snow
 May also have summer rains
 Moderate temperatures  Wider temperature extremes
 Less natural mulch  More natural mulch

 Growth patterns  Growth patterns
 Summer deciduous (facultative)  Evergreen
 Short, rapid growth season –  Longer growth season –
winter through May/June spring through summer
 May produce separate ‘summer  May have growth/flowering
foliage’ (late spring) that is after summer rains
more drought resistant

© Project SOUND

What happens when mature shrubs dry out?


 Twigs become very  Twigs don’t become so
dehydrated (lose 75-90% of dehydrated (lose 15-~40% of
their water) their water)
 Causes emboli (air bubbles) in  Less apt to develop emboli
the water conducting
vascular tissue (Xylem tubes)
 Causes plants to lose their  Thus, they can remain
leaves & become dormant evergreen
 CSS shrubs are programmed  Adult plants (which are
to grow rapidly in response drought tolerant) don’t need
to water – they need to ‘re- to react so quickly to water
grow’ their vascular tissue

© Project SOUND

Differences in root growth reflect native
environment

 Environmental  Environmental
 Higher total moisture
 Lower total moisture/rain
 Rain & snow
 May also have summer rains
 Moderate temperatures  Wider temperature extremes
 Less natural mulch  More natural mulch

 Roots – 1-8x above-ground  Roots – 6-40x above-ground area
area  Shallow roots – like CSS; grow
 Wide-spread, multi-branched with rain
(net-like) shallow (0-3 ft)  +/- Intermediate (often re-
roots – very efficient for sprouting) roots
water, nutrient up-take; grow  +/- Very deep vertical roots –
with winter rains down into bedrock & watertable
© Project SOUND

Take-home message

 Perennials from CSS, Coastal
Shrubland and Coastal Prairie have
dense, shallow roots

 They tend to become established
quickly (1-2 years) and be < 6 ft tall

 They tend to dry out in early
summer – either losing their leaves
or growing small summer leaves

 Mature plants do best with little
(Zone 1-2) water; will stay green
longer – but shorter-lived – with
more (Zone 2)

© Project SOUND

Take-home message
 Plants from Chaparral have both
shallow & deep roots, allowing
them to maximize available
water

 The roots take longer to develop
– hence the longer
Establishment Phase for
Chaparral shrubs

 Once established, Chaparral
shrubs are very drought
tolerant

 The roots of Chaparral shrubs
allow them to be both evergreen
and a large size (usually > 6 ft)
© Project SOUND

Watering rules of thumb -  Year 1:
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
 Year 2:
shrubs: mature Water Zone
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
occasional supplemental summer Aug/Sept. unless it gets
water; all others at mature Zone summer rain in nature
© Project SOUND

What plant communities normally
experience some summer moisture?
Summer monsoons Summer fogs
 Sonoran Desert  Northern Coastal Sage
 S. CA Mountain Scrub/Coastal Chaparral
Communities
 Chaparral (+/-)  Fog events (usually over
several days) can provide up
to 2-3 inches of precipitation
 Summer monsoon events
 Can occur from June-Aug
usually Aug-Sept
 Fog drip occurs at night
 Locally rare – but can
contribute significant
precipitation in a single
event (1/2-3”)
© Project SOUND

How do I know if my plants are growing properly?

© Project SOUND

Lesson 3: Species have normal growth
patterns; speed; size; shape; etc.

© Project SOUND

You may have heard this old saw about
the growth of CA native plants…

This probably fits large shrubs best
© Project SOUND

Grasses and grass-like plants look good,
but smaller, the first year

12 months

© Project SOUND

Bunchgrasses look a little thin the first year

Nassella – 6 months

Nassella – 24 months © Project SOUND

Thin Grass – Agrostis pallens

12 months

3 months

24 months

 ‘lawn-like’ grasses take 1-2
6 months years to look mature
© Project SOUND

Rushes & sedges
keep getting bigger

24 months © Project SOUND

Perennials, especially the groundcover
types, often look pretty wimpy the first year

© Project SOUND

Hummingbird Sage – Salvia spathacea

Hummingbird Sage – slow to go

12 months

26 months
© Project SOUND

Woody groundcover plants fill in readily

2 years after planting

Pigeon Point coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'), deer grass and
Canyon Prince giant rye (Leymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince'

© Project SOUND

Sub-shrubs often look mature quite early

6 months
4 months

12 months

Remember: these are CSS
sub-shrubs – they grow &
mature quickly

8 months © Project SOUND

Large shrubs/small trees go through
an ‘adolescent phase’

Lemonadeberry – Rhus integrifolia

http://www.sanelijo.org/about/images/lemonadeberry.jpg

Lemonadeberry in the wild

http://www-
http://www.ovrp.org/vegetation/images/Lemonadeberry.jpg laep.ced.berkeley.edu/laep/courses/courses_la112.html

 Can grow as individual plants or form close thickets

Heritage Creek hedgerow

Fall, 2009 – 1.5 years

Spring 2011

Fall 2010

Blue/Mexican Elderberry –
Sambucus nigra spp. cerulea (S. cerulea)

http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/elderb3.htm

Elderberry doesn’t need a lot of pampering; in fact, it seems to thrive on neglect

1 year in the garden

6 months in the garden © Project SOUND
2 years in the garden

 Will take some time & pruning to reach this mature size!

Mulches do more than just conserve water…..

 May help control the spread of plant
diseases
 May help control the effects/ numbers
of insects
 May help fruit/vegetable development

http://www.ehow.com/how_2354262_ch
 May help prevent soil erosion
oose-between-rock-wood-mulch.html

 Keeps feet clean, allowing access to
garden even when damp
 Provides a "finished" look to the garden
 Can be an important design element
(if desired)

© Project SOUND

Mulch helps in the transition period

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Rosenbaum_2009/index.html
© Project SOUND

Conserving water & soil: mulch tips
 Mulch when/where
appropriate – great water
management tool
 Choose mulches appropriate
for the plants (most
important) and the physical
conditions – see workbook
materials
 Organic mulches
 Inorganic mulches

 Look to Mother Nature
when choosing mulches
© Project SOUND
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Kasameyer_2009/index.html

Organic mulches need to be renewed
every fall

 Why the need to renew?
 Compaction
 Decomposition/breakdown
 Loses it’s color

 Benefits of mulch
renewal in fall
 Easy time – when plants
are dormant/pruned
 Adds color/interest
 Prepares garden to
conserve the winter rains
© Project SOUND

Filler plants are a
life-saver
 Short-lived grasses
 Blue wildrye – Elymus glaucus
 CA Brome – Bromus carinatus

 Annual wildflowers
 Clarkias
 Tidy-tips
 Globe Gilia
 Phacelias
 Everlastings

 Perennials that re-seed
 CA Poppy
 Rosy Buckwheat
© Project SOUND

Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

© Project SOUND
http://jrbpgrasses.blogspot.com/2006/04/blue-wildrye-elymus-glaucus-apriljune.html

Blue (Western) Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

 Short-lived, cool-season bunchgrass
 Occurs: coast to mountains; open
areas, chaparral, woodland, forest
- often riparian areas
 Size: 1-3+ ft; spreading – texture
somewhat coarse (typical ryegrass)
 Light: full sun to light shade (under
Mulefat or Elderberry)
 Soils: well-drained
 Water: best on moderately moist
soils but fairly drought tolerant
 Good for natural-looking areas,
slopes/banks, with oaks and conifers,
http://www.gardenopus.com/ElymusGlaucus.JPG
as an accent plant

© Project SOUND

Herbaceous perennial groundcovers
make great filler plants
 Yarrow – Achillea millefolia
 Woodmints – Stachys spp
 Coastal Aster
 CA Fuschia – Epilobium canum

© Project SOUND

What to do the first
few years
 Nice mulch; fencing
 Annual wildflowers
 Short-lived, quick-growing
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Salsig_2009/index.html
perennials & grasses
 Informative signs

© Project SOUND

Lesson 6 : Weeding is a fact of life

 Weeds compete for water, nutrients & light – and
they’re very good at it (that’s why they’re weeds!!
© Project SOUND

Lesson 7 : Start pruning in the first year

Remember – this plant gets very large without yearly tip-pruning
© Project SOUND

Monitoring for problems
 Plant water status
 Plant health/pests
 Plants dying
 Areas with too much or too
little water
 Erosion/drainage problems
 Gaps in the plant cover (only
after first 2 years or so –
hard to tell before that)
 Plants that don’t fit the
design/ are out of place

© Project SOUND

Madrona Water-wise Garden – Est. 12/05

December 2005 - installation December 2006 – 12 months

April 2007 – 15 months
April 2006 – 3 months © Project SOUND

Observations
 Species distribution has
changed – much like in
nature (annuals & re-
seeders common early on)
 As expected, smaller
plants established more
quickly
 The early garden looks
‘flat’ and ‘boring’ – many
slow-growing species not
yet visible

© Project SOUND

Observations
 Some plants have not
made it – others have
flourished
 Some plants are now in
too much shade –
succession
 Some plants probably
planted in the wrong
place – grew too big
 Some new plants are
needed every year to fill
gaps
© Project SOUND

Evolution of a front yard…

2009

2005

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Zander_2009/index.html

© Project SOUND

Lessons for the First Two years
1. Plant with the seasons
2. Water to promote survival, not abundant growth
3. Species have normal growth patterns; speed; size;
shape
4. Mulch to conserve water – and much more
5. Fill in the gaps with annuals, short-lived grasses,
‘filler plants’
6. Weeding is a fact of life
7. Start pruning in the first year
8. Monitor your progress/revise your plan as needed
9. Keep a Journal/ take photos
10. Learn from Mother Nature – the ‘Head Gardener’
© Project SOUND

First two years 2011

Recommended

Recommended

More Related Content

What's hot

What's hot (20)

Viewers also liked

Viewers also liked (11)

Similar to First two years 2011

Similar to First two years 2011 (20)

More from cvadheim

More from cvadheim (20)

Recently uploaded

Recently uploaded (20)

First two years 2011