First Two Years in Water-wise Garden - Notes

1/6/2013

Out of the Wilds and Into Your Garden

The First Two Years
in the Native Plant
Garden
C.M. Vadheim and T. Drake
CSUDH & Madrona Marsh Preserve

Madrona Marsh Preserve
Gardening with Western L.A. County Native Plants
August 20 & 23, 2011
Project SOUND – 2011 (our 7th year)
© Project SOUND © Project SOUND

The first two years can be a little scary….. …trust me, it’s even more scary for the plants!

 Nursery life is heavenly:
 Plenty of water
 Nice, appropriate, well-
drained potting soil
 Extra nutrients
 A little extra shade/
temperature control
 Pest-free
 Basically, a coddled life-
style that allows many of
them to survive infancy
(as they rarely would in
the wild)


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1/6/2013

What happens in nature? [Ceanothus] 10 Lessons to help you – and your plants -
Out in nature In the new garden through the first two years
 A big disturbance –  A big disturbance – you remove
fire/etc. removes at existing plants
least the shoots of
existing plants  Plant Year 1 – the plant is established
in the nursery – likely more water,
 Plant Year 1 – with nutrients than in nature
adequate rainfall seeds
to sprout & establish new  Plant Year 2/Garden Year 1 – you plant
seedlings; root system your new Ceanothus in the garden –
develops what a shock! Some root/shoot
growth
 Plant Year 2 – chugging
right along expanding  Plant Year 3/Garden Year 2 –
roots & shoots developing good roots & shoots

 Plant Year 3 – pretty  Plant Year 4/Garden Year 3 – almost
much established established © Project SOUND © Project SOUND

What is the ‘Establishment Phase’? What is the ‘Establishment Phase’?
 The period in which a new plant
becomes relatively self-sustaining  Length varies by species,
(when given it’s requirements) – a but some general rules of
gradual process thumb:
 Annuals: 1-2 months
 Involves two aspects:
 Herbaceous perennials: 1-3
 Acclimating to the garden environment years
 Developing sufficient root structure to  Perennial grasses: 1-2 years
support and sustain the plant
 Local sub-shrubs: 1-2 years
 Generally, the plant becomes 2-3  Woody shrubs & trees: 2-5
times its planting size during this years; the larger & slower-
growing species take up to 5
Phase years
 Plants require extra care during the
establishment phase

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1/6/2013

What is required during the Establishment Lesson 1: Plant with the seasons
Phase?

 Increased observation
– as with any baby
 Extra water during dry
periods – including
prolonged winter dry
spells and summer/fall
 Decreased competition
from other plants –
most notably weeds


What do we mean by ‘plant with the seasons’? The growth cycle of S. CA native
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)

 Fall/winter rains (Dec-Mar)
 Seeds germinate (many)
 Begin above-ground stem growth
 Leaf out (may be ‘spring’ leaves)
 ‘early’ flowering – some species

 Spring warm/dry down period
(Apr-June)
 Seed germination (warm weather)
 Continue stem growth
 Many will flower


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1/6/2013

Advantages to planting during the rainy How much do I need to water during the
season first two years?
 Saves water – soils are naturally
moist (Water Zone 3) during the
critical first few months
 Vulnerable plants get the best
water possible; dissolved oxygen
& nutrients
 Vulnerable plants are not
exposed to temperature
extremes (at least in the past)
 Soils are well-saturated –
promotes deep/wide root
growth
 Coincides with native plant’s
normal growth cycle; plants are
primed to grow at this time

Lesson 2: Water to promote survival, not Watering: the impact of
abundant growth where we live

 Region 3-South Coastal
 Climate Zones 22, 23 & 24
 CIMIS ETo Zones 1, 2, 4
and 6

 Region 4-South Inland
Valleys and Foothills
 Climate Zones 18, 19, 20
and 21
 CIMIS ETo Zone 9

© Project SOUND http://www.water.ca.gov/wateruseefficiency/docs/wucols00.pdf © Project SOUND

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1/6/2013

Newly planted native plants should get a
The benefits – and challenges – of where we live thorough soaking
 We can grow plants from a number of plant
communities:
 Soak new plants no matter
 Wetland/riparian
what the planting season
 Northern coastal prairie/CSS
 Southern coastal prairie  The first watering is
 CSS important – over-soak to
 Chaparral settle the soil & remove air
 Southern oak woodland pockets
 Mojave & Sonoran deserts
 Overhead watering is fine –
 We need to be aware of local weather patterns the plants will think it’s
 Winters may be overly dry – or wet raining
 Plants from some communities need more water than we usually
get – at least in the summer

Treat new plants as Water Zone 3 for the So, we’ve gotten to June, and it’s starting
first winter/early spring (through April) to get hot & dry….
 Rains may do the job
 Check soil moisture, especially
if we have:
 Long period (3+ weeks) with no
winter rains
 Very hot periods (winter Santa
Anas)
 Strong winds (soil dries faster
than you think)
http://royrector.com/garden/?p=124
 Check beneath the surface
(under mulch) - ~ 3-4 inches
 Dig down with trowel
 Use a moisture meter or soil
sampler © Project SOUND © Project SOUND
http://www.ecofitt.ca/Products/WaterProducts/Lawn-and-Garden/Soil-Moisture-Meter

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1/6/2013

The first dry season is crucial - and challenging We’ve been led to believe that all plants
grow like tropical plants…

http://dharmaconsulting.com/products/accelerating-change/

 ‘Don’t under-water; plants can die before they
become established’
 ‘Don’t over water! It leads to the death of many
native plants; their roots suffocate & die of rot or
disease.’
http://www.kriyayoga.com/love_blog/post.php/950

…and now the native plant ‘experts’ are trying to give us Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get
the same 1-2-3 gardening rules their watering advice straight???

http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/

http://kmgardendesign.com/Portfolio-CANativeGarden.htm
With CA native plants, one size does NOT fit all

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1/6/2013

Why can’t those (@@###**) experts get Gardens in Mediterranean climates
their watering advice straight??? (including S. CA) have three Water Zones

 Your soils (and other  Zone 1 – no supplemental summer water; soils
relevant conditions) may be are dry in summer/fall.
different
 They may be talking about
 Zone 2 – occasional summer water; soil is
a different climate region allowed to dry out between waterings.
(often N. CA) Watering is slow & deep to replenish the soil
water stores. In most gardens, you will water
 They may be thinking
about different species deeply 1-2 times per month in summer.
http://www.glenbrookenews.com/2009/10/04/home-owners-association-workhop/

which have different
You need to consider the  Zone 3 – regular water; soil is usually moist to
water needs
information source - and use the soggy, even in summer.
Water Zone principles

Water Result/consequence Water Zone Principles for the first 2 years
Description Picture
Zone (for mature plants)
Many Zone 1 plants (including Interpretation: give more water  ‘Water to keep the plant
many native to western L.A.
Zone 1
No supplemental
county & deserts) become
than the plant’s mature Water alive, not to make it grow
water summer dormant; some shade
Zone – but as close to it as
fast. Try to make the
reasonable. Taper the amount
species remain green
of water off as the root system plant drought tolerant!’
Includes ‘CA Natives’ from develops.
Occasional water; many plant communities;  ‘Watering less often and
soil dries out occasional summer water more deeply to stimulate
Zone 2 between deep helps many species to remain
waterings evergreen – many also extend Interpretation: follow good roots to grow deeper
bloom season Water Zone practices (e.g. water instead of on the surface
deeply and less frequently) even where they will be
during the first 2 years
Regular water;
Only native riparian and some susceptible to drying out.’
Zone 3 soil moist/ soggy mountain/N. CA species – will
kill many local CA natives


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1/6/2013

Why more water during the first year? No two gardens are alike: that’s why you
need to monitor your soil moisture
 Weaning from ‘nursery  Check soil
conditions’ which moisture every 1-2
included plenty of water weeks during the
 Less cover/shade = first year; water
higher evaporation rates as needed using
the ‘rules of
 Less developed/ thumb’
efficient root systems -
< 10% of area covered by  Remember: some
roots areas may dry out
more quickly
The only way you can assure that you are
watering correctly is to use the Water Zone
method and check your soils!

Watering rules of thumb -  Year 1: The best ways to supply water during the
 First winter/spring – Zone 3
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
first two years – S. CA gardens
 First summer/fall – one full
Water Zone more than it’s  Low frequency (1-4 times a
mature Zone – decrease month), long duration (4-12 hours)
slightly in Aug/Sept unless it irrigation is best to thoroughly
gets summer rain in nature soak the soil.
 Year 2:  Hose, drip, soaker hose or low
 Second winter/spring – water volume "micro“ sprinkler are
only if rains are inadequate often good choices
http://lawncare.savvy-cafe.com/save-money-and-water-with-smart-lawn-and-garden-tips-2009-08-17/
 Second summer/fall:
 Use overhead watering very
 Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone carefully – don’t let leaves remain
 All other perennial/woody
moist in warm weather
species: ½ Zone above mature  Do not water during the heat of
Zone – decrease slightly in
the day. Try very early morning
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Aug/Sept. unless it gets
occasional supplemental summer water summer rain in nature or evening (good in coastal areas)
http://www2.ljworld.com/photos/2009/aug/16/

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1/6/2013

Some more irrigation tips for watering young
This class is about teaching you ‘how to fish’
native plants  For individual plants, drip irrigation or
hose watering is best. You can even use
a ‘Homer Bucket’ for individual plants.
 For large areas, micro-sprinklers or
soaker hoses are best – good flexibility,
control & coverage.
 Don’t forget to move the irrigation out
as roots grow; make sure that the
entire root system gets wet.
 Because conditions vary from garden to
garden, and even within gardens, the
best irrigation schedule is determined
by watching your plants. Manually set
each zone on the controller.
 Relax: in well-drained soils, water is not
typically an issue when the appropriate
plants are chosen for the site (i.e., full
sun, coastal...), and planting takes place http://www.clipartheaven.com/show/clipart/kids_stuff/images_(a_-_f)/fishing-gif.html

during the cool, rainy season

Bunchgrasses –  Year 1:
 First winter/spring – Zone 3
Why do bunchgrasses mature quickly
Water Zone 1-2 (rain alone may suffice) (have a short establishment Phase)?
 First summer/fall – one full
Water Zone more than it’s
mature Zone – decrease  Perennial grasses tend to grow
slightly in Aug/Sept unless it
quickly – they establish an
gets summer rain in nature
extensive root system the
 Year 2:
first year
 Second winter/spring – water
only if rains are inadequate  They tend to have relatively
 Second summer/fall: deep roots (3+ feet) compared
 Grasses & local native sub- to non-native lawn grasses
Deergrass – Muhlenbergia rigens shrubs: mature Water Zone
 All other perennial/woody  S. CA bunchgrasses tolerate
species: ½ Zone above mature
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
dry conditions really well
occasional supplemental summer water Aug/Sept. unless it gets
summer rain in nature http://www.pitzer.edu/offices/arboretum/tongva_gard
en/plants/19-Muhlenbergia_rigens.htm

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1/6/2013

The growth cycle of S. CA native A comparison of two shrubs
perennial species (herbaceous to woody)
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral
 Dry period (June/July-Nov)
Black Sage – Salvia mellifera Bigpod Ceanothus – C. megacarpus
 Stem elongation (slower; may be
‘summer’ type growth pattern)
 Foliage: effect depends on species
 Evergreen plants usually produce no
new leaves – but retain leaves
 Many plants in some plant communities
(Coastal Sage Scrub; Coastal Prairie;
Coastal shrubland) are drought
deciduous
 Some plants from these communities
produce special ‘summer leaves’ that
may remain on the plant until late
summer
Why this variability & what  May leaf out & even flower if summer
does it mean for watering? rains/watering occur

California Black Sage – Salvia mellifera Black Sage – Salvia mellifera
 A “CA coastal plant”
 Coastal ranges from San Jose to
Baja
 Channel Islands and Baja coastal
http://www.swsbm.com/Maps/Salvia_mellifera.gif
islands

 on South and West facing slopes
on rocky soil in California's
coastal sage scrub and chaparral
plant communities
 Often in slightly wetter sites
than other native Salvias
 Common; may form dense thickets
in wild

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?4745,4865,4880

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1/6/2013

Watering rules of thumb: Black Sage – Salvia mellifera –
Zone 1-2
 Year 1:
 First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
alone may suffice)
 First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
 Year 2:
 Second winter/spring – water only
if rains are inadequate
 Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
mature Water Zone
 All other perennial/woody species:
½ Zone above mature Zone –
decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
http://www.cnps.org/programs/vegetation/Coyote_Ridge/images/10a_Artemisia_californica-Salvia_mellifera_SS.jpg

 Black Sage is one tough plant – and part of the reason is Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
it’s summer dormancy!!!! occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND

Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus Big-pod Ceanothus – Ceanothus megacarpus
 Coast of S. CA from
Santa Barbara to San
var. insularis Diego Co. – CA
endemic
 var. insularis – Channel
Isl. (Catalina & San
Clemente in south)
 var. megacarpus –
mainland (Santa Monica
Mtns our nearest)

var. megacarpus  Dry, chaparral slopes
below 2000 ft.

http://ucjeps.berkeley.edu/cgi-bin/get_JM_treatment.pl?Ceanothus+megacarpus+var.+insularis

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Big-pod Ceanothus Ceanothus –  Year 1:
 Soils:
is a chaparral shrub  Texture: rocky or sandy best Water Zone 1-2  First winter/spring – Zone 3 (rain
– needs well-drained soil alone may suffice)
 pH: any local  First summer/fall – one full Water
Zone more than it’s mature Zone –
 Light: decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
 Full sun to light shade unless it gets summer rains in
 Benefits from afternoon nature
shade in hot inland gardens
 Year 2:
 Water:  Second winter/spring – water only
 Winter: needs good winter if rains are inadequate
rains
 Summer: low needs – Zone 1-
 Grasses & local native sub-shrubs:
2 (water very infrequently, if
mature Water Zone
at all, once established)
http://www.calflora.net/bloomingplants/bigpodceanothus.html
 All other perennial/woody species:
 Fertilizer: none; likes poor soils; ½ Zone above mature Zone –
likes an organic mulch decrease slightly in Aug/Sept.
Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees:
unless it gets summer rains in
occasional supplemental summer water
© Project SOUND
nature © Project SOUND
http://farm4.static.flickr.com/3373/3275037528_782b3c6c8f.jpg?v=0

Comparison of yearly cycle: CSS vs Chaparral What happens when mature shrubs dry out?
 Environmental  Environmental
 Lower total moisture/rain  Higher total moisture  Twigs become very  Twigs don’t become so
 Rain & snow dehydrated (lose 75-90% of dehydrated (lose 15-~40% of
 May also have summer rains their water) their water)
 Moderate temperatures  Wider temperature extremes  Causes emboli (air bubbles) in  Less apt to develop emboli
 Less natural mulch  More natural mulch the water conducting
vascular tissue (Xylem tubes)
 Growth patterns  Growth patterns
 Summer deciduous (facultative)  Evergreen
 Causes plants to lose their  Thus, they can remain
leaves & become dormant evergreen
 Short, rapid growth season –  Longer growth season –
winter through May/June spring through summer  CSS shrubs are programmed  Adult plants (which are
 May produce separate ‘summer  May have growth/flowering to grow rapidly in response drought tolerant) don’t need
foliage’ (late spring) that is after summer rains to water – they need to ‘re- to react so quickly to water
more drought resistant grow’ their vascular tissue


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1/6/2013

Differences in root growth reflect native Take-home message
environment
 Perennials from CSS, Coastal
Coastal Sage Scrub Chaparral Shrubland and Coastal Prairie have
dense, shallow roots
 Environmental  Environmental
 Lower total moisture/rain
 Higher total moisture  They tend to become established
 Rain & snow quickly (1-2 years) and be < 6 ft tall
 May also have summer rains
 Moderate temperatures  Wider temperature extremes  They tend to dry out in early
 More natural mulch summer – either losing their leaves
 Less natural mulch
or growing small summer leaves
 Roots – 1-8x above-ground  Roots – 6-40x above-ground area
 Mature plants do best with little
area  Shallow roots – like CSS; grow
with rain (Zone 1-2) water; will stay green
 Wide-spread, multi-branched
 +/- Intermediate (often re-
longer – but shorter-lived – with
(net-like) shallow (0-3 ft)
roots – very efficient for sprouting) roots more (Zone 2)
water, nutrient up-take; grow  +/- Very deep vertical roots –
with winter rains down into bedrock & watertable

Watering rules of thumb -  Year 1:
Take-home message  First winter/spring – Zone 3
the first 2 years (rain alone may suffice)
 Plants from Chaparral have both  First summer/fall – one full
shallow & deep roots, allowing Water Zone more than it’s
them to maximize available mature Zone – decrease
water slightly in Aug/Sept unless it
gets summer rain in nature
 The roots take longer to develop
– hence the longer  Year 2:
Establishment Phase for  Second winter/spring – water
Chaparral shrubs only if rains are inadequate
 Once established, Chaparral
shrubs are very drought  Grasses & local native sub-
shrubs: mature Water Zone
tolerant
 All other perennial/woody
 The roots of Chaparral shrubs species: ½ Zone above mature
allow them to be both evergreen Year 3: large woody shrubs/trees: Zone – decrease slightly in
and a large size (usually > 6 ft) occasional supplemental summer Aug/Sept. unless it gets
water; all others at mature Zone summer rain in nature

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1/6/2013

What plant communities normally How do I know if my plants are growing properly?
experience some summer moisture?
Summer monsoons Summer fogs
 Sonoran Desert  Northern Coastal Sage
 S. CA Mountain Scrub/Coastal Chaparral
Communities
 Chaparral (+/-)  Fog events (usually over
several days) can provide up
to 2-3 inches of precipitation
 Summer monsoon events
 Can occur from June-Aug
usually Aug-Sept
 Fog drip occurs at night
 Locally rare – but can
contribute significant
precipitation in a single
event (1/2-3”)

Lesson 3: Species have normal growth You may have heard this old saw about
patterns; speed; size; shape; etc. the growth of CA native plants…

This probably fits large shrubs best

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1/6/2013

Grasses and grass-like plants look good, Bunchgrasses look a little thin the first year
but smaller, the first year

Nassella – 6 months

12 months

© Project SOUND Nassella – 24 months © Project SOUND

Thin Grass – Agrostis pallens Rushes & sedges
keep getting bigger

12 months

3 months

24 months

 ‘lawn-like’ grasses take 1-2
6 months years to look mature
© Project SOUND 24 months © Project SOUND

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1/6/2013

Perennials, especially the groundcover Hummingbird Sage – Salvia spathacea
types, often look pretty wimpy the first year

© Project SOUND

Woody groundcover plants fill in readily
Hummingbird Sage – slow to go

2 years after planting

12 months
Pigeon Point coyote brush (Baccharis pilularis 'Pigeon Point'), deer grass and
Canyon Prince giant rye (Leymus condensatus 'Canyon Prince'
26 months

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1/6/2013

Sub-shrubs often look mature quite early
Large shrubs/small trees go through
an ‘adolescent phase’

6 months
4 months

12 months

Remember: these are CSS
sub-shrubs – they grow &
mature quickly

8 months © Project SOUND

Lemonadeberry – Rhus integrifolia Lemonadeberry in the wild

http://www-
http://www.ovrp.org/vegetation/images/Lemonadeberry.jpg laep.ced.berkeley.edu/laep/courses/courses_la112.html

 Can grow as individual plants or form close thickets
http://www.sanelijo.org/about/images/lemonadeberry.jpg

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Heritage Creek hedgerow Blue/Mexican Elderberry –
Sambucus nigra spp. cerulea (S. cerulea)

Fall, 2009 – 1.5 years

Spring 2011

http://www.timetotrack.com/jay/elderb3.htm
Fall 2010

1 year in the garden

Elderberry doesn’t need a lot of pampering; in fact, it seems to thrive on neglect 6 months in the garden © Project SOUND
2 years in the garden

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Lesson 4: Mulch to conserve water – and
much more

 Will take some time & pruning to reach this mature size!
© Project SOUND

Mulches do more than just conserve water….. Mulch helps in the transition period
 May help control the spread of plant
diseases
 May help control the effects/ numbers
of insects
 May help fruit/vegetable development

http://www.ehow.com/how_2354262_ch
 May help prevent soil erosion
oose-between-rock-wood-mulch.html

 Keeps feet clean, allowing access to
garden even when damp
 Provides a "finished" look to the garden
 Can be an important design element
(if desired)

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Rosenbaum_2009/index.html

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Conserving water & soil: mulch tips Organic mulches need to be renewed
every fall
 Mulch when/where
appropriate – great water
management tool  Why the need to renew?
 Compaction
 Choose mulches appropriate  Decomposition/breakdown
for the plants (most  Loses it’s color
important) and the physical
conditions – see workbook  Benefits of mulch
materials renewal in fall
 Organic mulches  Easy time – when plants
are dormant/pruned
 Inorganic mulches
 Adds color/interest
 Look to Mother Nature  Prepares garden to
when choosing mulches conserve the winter rains
© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Kasameyer_2009/index.html

Lesson 5 :Fill in the gaps with annuals, Filler plants are a
short-lived grasses, ‘filler plants’ life-saver
 Short-lived grasses
 Blue wildrye – Elymus glaucus
 CA Brome – Bromus carinatus

 Annual wildflowers
 Clarkias
 Tidy-tips
 Globe Gilia
 Phacelias
 Everlastings

 Perennials that re-seed
 CA Poppy
 Rosy Buckwheat

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Blue Wildrye – Elymus glaucus Blue (Western) Wildrye – Elymus glaucus

 Short-lived, cool-season bunchgrass
 Occurs: coast to mountains; open
areas, chaparral, woodland, forest
- often riparian areas
 Size: 1-3+ ft; spreading – texture
somewhat coarse (typical ryegrass)
 Light: full sun to light shade (under
Mulefat or Elderberry)
 Soils: well-drained
 Water: best on moderately moist
soils but fairly drought tolerant
 Good for natural-looking areas,
slopes/banks, with oaks and conifers,
http://www.gardenopus.com/ElymusGlaucus.JPG
as an accent plant
USDA-NRCS PLANTS Database

http://jrbpgrasses.blogspot.com/2006/04/blue-wildrye-elymus-glaucus-apriljune.html

Herbaceous perennial groundcovers What to do the first
make great filler plants few years
 Yarrow – Achillea millefolia  Nice mulch; fencing

 Woodmints – Stachys spp  Annual wildflowers

 Coastal Aster  Short-lived, quick-growing
http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Salsig_2009/index.html
perennials & grasses
 CA Fuschia – Epilobium canum
 Informative signs


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Lesson 6 : Weeding is a fact of life Lesson 7 : Start pruning in the first year

 Weeds compete for water, nutrients & light – and
they’re very good at it (that’s why they’re weeds!!
© Project SOUND Remember – this plant gets very large without yearly tip-pruning
© Project SOUND

Properly pruned Black Sage Lesson 8 : Monitor your progress/revise
your plan as needed
Leave 3-4 pairs of new leaves/shoots

© Project SOUND
© Project SOUND

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Monitoring for problems Lesson 9 : Keep a Journal/ take photos
 Plant water status
 Plant health/pests
 Plants dying
 Areas with too much or too
little water
 Erosion/drainage problems
 Gaps in the plant cover (only
after first 2 years or so –
hard to tell before that)
 Plants that don’t fit the
design/ are out of place


Madrona Water-wise Garden – Est. 12/05

December 2005 - installation December 2006 – 12 months

At 15 months, many
plants appear quite
mature. Why?

April 2007 – 15 months
April 2006 – 3 months © Project SOUND © Project SOUND

23

1/6/2013

‘Garden of Dreams’ – CSUDH – Est 1/09

April 2009 Feb. 2010
April 2009 Feb. 2010

July 2009 April 2011 © Project SOUND July 2009 April 2011 © Project SOUND

Madrona Native Plant Garden – Est. 1/00


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1/6/2013

Observations Observations
 Some plants have not
 Species distribution has made it – others have
changed – much like in flourished
nature (annuals & re-
seeders common early on)  Some plants are now in
too much shade –
 As expected, smaller succession
plants established more
quickly  Some plants probably
planted in the wrong
 The early garden looks place – grew too big
‘flat’ and ‘boring’ – many
slow-growing species not  Some new plants are
yet visible needed every year to fill
gaps

Evolution of a front yard…

http://www.gardenofnativeplants.com/about/

2009

2005

http://www.bringingbackthenatives.net/slides/Zander_2009/index.html

© Project SOUND
At one year At two years © Project SOUND

25

1/6/2013

Lesson 10 : Learn from Mother Nature –
the ‘Head Gardener’

Third spring


Evolution of the Sasayama front yard


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1/6/2013

Lessons for the First Two years We hope this class has helped you
1. Plant with the seasons understand the first two years
2. Water to promote survival, not abundant growth
3. Species have normal growth patterns; speed; size;
shape
4. Mulch to conserve water – and much more
5. Fill in the gaps with annuals, short-lived grasses,
‘filler plants’
6. Weeding is a fact of life
7. Start pruning in the first year
8. Monitor your progress/revise your plan as needed
9. Keep a Journal/ take photos
10. Learn from Mother Nature – the ‘Head Gardener’

27

First Two Years in Water-wise Garden - Notes

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