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The Wines of France
Some of the World’s Best
The Bordeaux
Connection
The Soul of the Wine Industry
Classification System
• Napoleon III called for
classification before 1855
Exposition Universelle de
Paris
• Promoted by the Gironde
Chamber of Commerce
• Bordeaux Wine Brokers'
Union
• Only part of region was
classified
The Implications
• Set certain Bordeaux wines apart from
others
• Set Bordeaux as the premiere wine
production area
• Limits potential for up and coming
vineyards
• Maintains control by a select few
French Wines Laws
• Classifications
– Vin de Table
– Vin de Pays
– Vin Délimite de Qualité Supérieure
– Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
Vin de Table
• Primarily the southern regions
• Produced using safe procedures
• No quality standards
• 12% of total production
Vin de Pays
• Conversion from vin de table
– Higher price and demand for better wines
– Removal of less desirable vines
– Regional tasting panel approval
– Grown in region from recommended varieties
• Regions, departments, zones like….
– New England, New Hampshire, Seacoast
– Roughly 33% of total
Vin Délimite de Qualité Supérieure
• VDQS wines roughly 3% of total
• Produced from slightly higher yielding vines
that AOC
• A step toward AOC classification
Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée-
(Controlled Naming of Origin)
• Roughly 52% of total
• Region, district, village, single vineyard
– Grapes grown within the names area
– Grapes approved for that area
– Reach a set alcohol level
– Meet yield per acre standards
– Maintain specific viticulture practices
– Tested by taste and chemical analysis
• Also crus designations
Terroir
• Soils
• Grapes
• Selection
• History
• These four elements combine to produce
the unique character that goes into each
wine
Bordeaux in Brief
• Blending
– Fermented by lot
– Blended to yield best potential wine of that vintage
• Cabernets strong on left bank
• Merlots strong on right bank
• A typical offerings when one variety fails
• Cabernet Franc grown minimally
• Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc primary whites
• Second labels offer great value
Top Players
• Medoc
– Margaux
– St. Julien
– Pauillac
– St. Estephe
• Graves
– St Emillon
– Pessac-Leognan
• Pomerol
• Sauterne
Margaux
• Margaux
• Châteaus in all 5 cru
classifications
– 1 first growth
– 4 second growth
– gravel
– perfume
– feminine
– Château Margaux
– 75% cab 25% merlot
St Julien
• St. Julien
– 5 second growth
– Deep-rooted vines
– perfect
– balance of opulence
and austerity
– Château Ducru
Beaucaillou
– 75% cab, 20% merlot,
8% cab franc
Pauillac
• Pauillac
– 3 First growth
– 2 second growth
– Classic rich flavor
– black current and cassis
– pencil box
– Château Lafite Rothschild
• 70% cab, 20% merlot, 10%
cab franc
– Château Mouton-Rothschild
• 76% cab, 13% merlot, 9%
cab franc, 2% petit verdot
St Estephe
• St. Estephe
– 2 second crus
– Very deep rooted
vines
– high tannin but
softening of late
– longer to soften
– Chateau Cos
d’Estournel
• 60% cab, 38% merlot,
2% cab franc
St Emillon
• Gravel and limestone
• Higher merlot content
– Drinkable young or cellar
• Château Cheval Blanc
– 60% cab franc, 40% merlot
Pessac-Leognan
• Pessac-Leognan
– better graves
– smokey
– minerally reds
– Chateau Haut Brion
Pomerol
• Pomerol
– deep clay
– creamy & seductively
rich
– Chateau Pétrus
• Average vine over 40
yrs.
Sauternes
• Sauternes
– Dry or sweet
– one vine= one glass
– three pressings
– >20 degrees sugar
– 10 years
Alsace & Loire
Alsace- On the border of Germany
• The geography and
turns of historical
events shape the
wines of this region
History
• 1870 End of Franco Prussian War… Alsace
becomes German territory
• 1918 End of WWI…Alsace becomes
French
• 1945….German again
• Always a French flare for wine making and
matching with cuisine
• Increasing move toward dryer wines
Alsacian Wine Region
• 70 miles long, avg. 1 mile wide
• vines hang on eastern slope of Vosges
• 600-1500 ft. elevation
• slow ripening...low heat summation
• influenced by Rhine river
• extension of German Pfalz
• wines more vinous than German cousins
Alsace- A Single AOC
• Strong German Influence
• Typically, label carries grape variety
• Sparkling=Cremant d’Alsace
• Blended=Edelzwicker
• 10% Pinot Noir
• 90% White
– Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot blanc
Alsatian Wine
• Dry yet fruity Muskat
• Rieslings dryer than Germany
• Gewurtztraminer that’s spicy, light bodied,
& slightly sweet
• Pinot blanc in small quantities
• Some Tokay
Loire Valley Region
Loire
• Grape Varieties
– Chenin Blanc
– Muscadet
– Cabernet Franc (red)
• Four Regions
– Western (Nantes)
– Central (Anjou & Saumur)
– Upper (Touraine)
– Jura & Savoie
• mountainous
Nantes
• ~1635 Burgundians introduced Melon grape
• Survived –20C temps in 1709
• Became known as Muscadet
• First appellations
– Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine
– Muscadet des Coteaux de la Loire
– Muscadet
• 1972 compulsory tasting instituted to grant or
deny use of appellation
Anjou & Saumur
• Vineyards begun in middle ages
• Monks played major role
• Canalization of tributaries important for
trade
• Anjou known for rose wines
• Different grapes in each sub region
– Cabernet in Cabernet d’Anjou
– Grolleau in Rosé d’Anjou
Anjou & Saumur
• Saumur is known for….
– Sparkling wines made from red (primarily
cabernet franc) and white (primarily chenin)
grapes
– Campigny made from cabernet franc
– Reds from cab and cabernet franc
– Whites primarily from chenin blanc grape
Touraine
• Most credit to monks in 300’s AD
• Numerous sub-areas-
– Chinon= primarily red from cab franc, deep
red
– Vouvray solely from chenin grape to produce a
dry to semi-sweet wine
– Touraine primarily gamay from reds and
sauvignon for whites
Centre
• Evidence to the first century
• Major development in 12th century
• Sancerre best known sub-region
– Sancerre grape for white
– Some pinot noir for rose
Burgundy
Burgundy in Brief
• 100 miles SE of Paris..225 miles long
• 6 major districts
• 111,000 acres of AOC wines
• 27+ million cases each year
• 15% of France’s AOC output
• Great Wine….Montrachet
• Popular Wine….Beaujolais
Labeling of Wines
• Small vineyards
• Bottling & distribution primarily by
negociant-eleveur
• Self-bottlers = domains or clos
– e.g. Mis en Bouteille au Domaine
• Limited quantities, high prices
• Best wines carry name of vineyard
Labeling of Wines
• Single vineyard=
Grand Crus
• Best communes= Premiere
Crus
• Communal level= Village
names
• Regional level=
– Bourgogne, Bourgogne
Ordinaire, Bourgogne Passe-
Tous-Grains
– Grape variety= major
distinguishing feature
By the Sub-Regions
• Chablis-4.7%
– 7 grand crus, 17
premier crus
– Chablis, Petit Chablis
– northern location,
limestone, south facing
vineyards
Continuing South
• Cote de Nuits-3.2%
– Gevrey Chambertin,
Nuits St. George
– 25 grand crus
Further South
• Cote de Beaune-6.9%
– 15 Grand crus
– Beaune, Pommard, Puligny-
Montrachet
• Cote Chalonnaise-2.1%
– increased plantings since 1980
– primarily pinot noir and
chardonnay
– Vlgs- Mercurey, Montagny
Still further South
• Maconnais-10.9%
– white equivalent of
Beaujolais
– 68% chardonnay, 25%
gamay, 7% pinot noir
– Vlgs- Pouilly-Fuisse,
Macon-Villages
Most Southern
• Beaujolais-59.2%
– largest area in
Burgundy
– 14.8M cases red, 98K
cases white
– gamay grape country
– half of the production
is consumed
domestically
Beaujolais- 35 m. long 5-10 wide
• Haut Beaujolais…including
– Crus Beaujolais= 25% of total
– 39 Beaujolais Village=25%
• Bas Beaujolais….
– Beaujolais
– Beaujolais Superieur total of
50%
– Beaujolais Nouveau 3rd
Thursday of November each
year
The Rhone
From Avignon to Vienne
A Bit About the River
• Much of the river is canalized
• Agriculture and industry share the shore
• Dozens of medieval cities line its banks
The Region
• Divided into
– Northern Rhone
• Single varietal wines (Syrah)
• Temperate climate, fair rainfall
– Southern Rhone
• Blended wines
• Mediterranean climate
– Côte du Rhone term used throughout
– Côte du Rhone Village reserved for defined area
Northern Rhone
• Top appellations:
– Chateau-Grillet
– Condrieu, Cornas
– Cote-Rotie
– Croze-Hermitage
– Hermitage
– St. Joseph
– St.-Peray
Northern Rhone
• Syrah grape predominates
• Some viognier
• Marsanne and Roussanne for white
Hermitage
Southern Rhone
• Top appellations:
– Chateauneuf-du-Pape
– Cotes du Rhone
– Cotes du Rhone Village
• Grenache grape predominates
• Syrah and Mourvedre used for blending
• Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc are
the primary white grapes
Chateauneuf-du-Pape
• A favorite that feel from grace in the 1980’s
• Now staging a comeback
• Primarily grenache but blended with up to
13 other wines
• 320 domains produce this wine today
Vermouth
• Red or White
– Originally aged in casks at sea
– Now aged in seaside courtyard
– Barrels left loosely corked
• Speeds aging
Vermouth
• Herbs and other botanicals blended with
wine to impart subtle flavor
• White vermouth as aperitif or mixed in
martini
• Red vermouth in Manhattan or on the
rocks
Champagne
• We cover Champagne in a separate
presentation along with sparkling wines

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The Wines of France

  • 1. The Wines of France Some of the World’s Best
  • 2. The Bordeaux Connection The Soul of the Wine Industry
  • 3. Classification System • Napoleon III called for classification before 1855 Exposition Universelle de Paris • Promoted by the Gironde Chamber of Commerce • Bordeaux Wine Brokers' Union • Only part of region was classified
  • 4. The Implications • Set certain Bordeaux wines apart from others • Set Bordeaux as the premiere wine production area • Limits potential for up and coming vineyards • Maintains control by a select few
  • 5. French Wines Laws • Classifications – Vin de Table – Vin de Pays – Vin Délimite de Qualité Supérieure – Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée
  • 6. Vin de Table • Primarily the southern regions • Produced using safe procedures • No quality standards • 12% of total production
  • 7. Vin de Pays • Conversion from vin de table – Higher price and demand for better wines – Removal of less desirable vines – Regional tasting panel approval – Grown in region from recommended varieties • Regions, departments, zones like…. – New England, New Hampshire, Seacoast – Roughly 33% of total
  • 8. Vin Délimite de Qualité Supérieure • VDQS wines roughly 3% of total • Produced from slightly higher yielding vines that AOC • A step toward AOC classification
  • 9. Appellation d’Origine Contrôlée- (Controlled Naming of Origin) • Roughly 52% of total • Region, district, village, single vineyard – Grapes grown within the names area – Grapes approved for that area – Reach a set alcohol level – Meet yield per acre standards – Maintain specific viticulture practices – Tested by taste and chemical analysis • Also crus designations
  • 10. Terroir • Soils • Grapes • Selection • History • These four elements combine to produce the unique character that goes into each wine
  • 11. Bordeaux in Brief • Blending – Fermented by lot – Blended to yield best potential wine of that vintage • Cabernets strong on left bank • Merlots strong on right bank • A typical offerings when one variety fails • Cabernet Franc grown minimally • Sémillon and Sauvignon Blanc primary whites • Second labels offer great value
  • 12. Top Players • Medoc – Margaux – St. Julien – Pauillac – St. Estephe • Graves – St Emillon – Pessac-Leognan • Pomerol • Sauterne
  • 13. Margaux • Margaux • Châteaus in all 5 cru classifications – 1 first growth – 4 second growth – gravel – perfume – feminine – Château Margaux – 75% cab 25% merlot
  • 14. St Julien • St. Julien – 5 second growth – Deep-rooted vines – perfect – balance of opulence and austerity – Château Ducru Beaucaillou – 75% cab, 20% merlot, 8% cab franc
  • 15. Pauillac • Pauillac – 3 First growth – 2 second growth – Classic rich flavor – black current and cassis – pencil box – Château Lafite Rothschild • 70% cab, 20% merlot, 10% cab franc – Château Mouton-Rothschild • 76% cab, 13% merlot, 9% cab franc, 2% petit verdot
  • 16. St Estephe • St. Estephe – 2 second crus – Very deep rooted vines – high tannin but softening of late – longer to soften – Chateau Cos d’Estournel • 60% cab, 38% merlot, 2% cab franc
  • 17. St Emillon • Gravel and limestone • Higher merlot content – Drinkable young or cellar • Château Cheval Blanc – 60% cab franc, 40% merlot
  • 18. Pessac-Leognan • Pessac-Leognan – better graves – smokey – minerally reds – Chateau Haut Brion
  • 19. Pomerol • Pomerol – deep clay – creamy & seductively rich – Chateau Pétrus • Average vine over 40 yrs.
  • 20. Sauternes • Sauternes – Dry or sweet – one vine= one glass – three pressings – >20 degrees sugar – 10 years
  • 22. Alsace- On the border of Germany • The geography and turns of historical events shape the wines of this region
  • 23. History • 1870 End of Franco Prussian War… Alsace becomes German territory • 1918 End of WWI…Alsace becomes French • 1945….German again • Always a French flare for wine making and matching with cuisine • Increasing move toward dryer wines
  • 24. Alsacian Wine Region • 70 miles long, avg. 1 mile wide • vines hang on eastern slope of Vosges • 600-1500 ft. elevation • slow ripening...low heat summation • influenced by Rhine river • extension of German Pfalz • wines more vinous than German cousins
  • 25. Alsace- A Single AOC • Strong German Influence • Typically, label carries grape variety • Sparkling=Cremant d’Alsace • Blended=Edelzwicker • 10% Pinot Noir • 90% White – Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Pinot blanc
  • 26. Alsatian Wine • Dry yet fruity Muskat • Rieslings dryer than Germany • Gewurtztraminer that’s spicy, light bodied, & slightly sweet • Pinot blanc in small quantities • Some Tokay
  • 28. Loire • Grape Varieties – Chenin Blanc – Muscadet – Cabernet Franc (red) • Four Regions – Western (Nantes) – Central (Anjou & Saumur) – Upper (Touraine) – Jura & Savoie • mountainous
  • 29. Nantes • ~1635 Burgundians introduced Melon grape • Survived –20C temps in 1709 • Became known as Muscadet • First appellations – Muscadet de Sèvre et Maine – Muscadet des Coteaux de la Loire – Muscadet • 1972 compulsory tasting instituted to grant or deny use of appellation
  • 30. Anjou & Saumur • Vineyards begun in middle ages • Monks played major role • Canalization of tributaries important for trade • Anjou known for rose wines • Different grapes in each sub region – Cabernet in Cabernet d’Anjou – Grolleau in Rosé d’Anjou
  • 31. Anjou & Saumur • Saumur is known for…. – Sparkling wines made from red (primarily cabernet franc) and white (primarily chenin) grapes – Campigny made from cabernet franc – Reds from cab and cabernet franc – Whites primarily from chenin blanc grape
  • 32. Touraine • Most credit to monks in 300’s AD • Numerous sub-areas- – Chinon= primarily red from cab franc, deep red – Vouvray solely from chenin grape to produce a dry to semi-sweet wine – Touraine primarily gamay from reds and sauvignon for whites
  • 33. Centre • Evidence to the first century • Major development in 12th century • Sancerre best known sub-region – Sancerre grape for white – Some pinot noir for rose
  • 35. Burgundy in Brief • 100 miles SE of Paris..225 miles long • 6 major districts • 111,000 acres of AOC wines • 27+ million cases each year • 15% of France’s AOC output • Great Wine….Montrachet • Popular Wine….Beaujolais
  • 36. Labeling of Wines • Small vineyards • Bottling & distribution primarily by negociant-eleveur • Self-bottlers = domains or clos – e.g. Mis en Bouteille au Domaine • Limited quantities, high prices • Best wines carry name of vineyard
  • 37. Labeling of Wines • Single vineyard= Grand Crus • Best communes= Premiere Crus • Communal level= Village names • Regional level= – Bourgogne, Bourgogne Ordinaire, Bourgogne Passe- Tous-Grains – Grape variety= major distinguishing feature
  • 38. By the Sub-Regions • Chablis-4.7% – 7 grand crus, 17 premier crus – Chablis, Petit Chablis – northern location, limestone, south facing vineyards
  • 39. Continuing South • Cote de Nuits-3.2% – Gevrey Chambertin, Nuits St. George – 25 grand crus
  • 40. Further South • Cote de Beaune-6.9% – 15 Grand crus – Beaune, Pommard, Puligny- Montrachet • Cote Chalonnaise-2.1% – increased plantings since 1980 – primarily pinot noir and chardonnay – Vlgs- Mercurey, Montagny
  • 41. Still further South • Maconnais-10.9% – white equivalent of Beaujolais – 68% chardonnay, 25% gamay, 7% pinot noir – Vlgs- Pouilly-Fuisse, Macon-Villages
  • 42. Most Southern • Beaujolais-59.2% – largest area in Burgundy – 14.8M cases red, 98K cases white – gamay grape country – half of the production is consumed domestically
  • 43. Beaujolais- 35 m. long 5-10 wide • Haut Beaujolais…including – Crus Beaujolais= 25% of total – 39 Beaujolais Village=25% • Bas Beaujolais…. – Beaujolais – Beaujolais Superieur total of 50% – Beaujolais Nouveau 3rd Thursday of November each year
  • 45. A Bit About the River • Much of the river is canalized • Agriculture and industry share the shore • Dozens of medieval cities line its banks
  • 46. The Region • Divided into – Northern Rhone • Single varietal wines (Syrah) • Temperate climate, fair rainfall – Southern Rhone • Blended wines • Mediterranean climate – Côte du Rhone term used throughout – Côte du Rhone Village reserved for defined area
  • 47. Northern Rhone • Top appellations: – Chateau-Grillet – Condrieu, Cornas – Cote-Rotie – Croze-Hermitage – Hermitage – St. Joseph – St.-Peray
  • 48. Northern Rhone • Syrah grape predominates • Some viognier • Marsanne and Roussanne for white Hermitage
  • 49. Southern Rhone • Top appellations: – Chateauneuf-du-Pape – Cotes du Rhone – Cotes du Rhone Village • Grenache grape predominates • Syrah and Mourvedre used for blending • Clairette, Grenache Blanc, Bourboulenc are the primary white grapes
  • 50. Chateauneuf-du-Pape • A favorite that feel from grace in the 1980’s • Now staging a comeback • Primarily grenache but blended with up to 13 other wines • 320 domains produce this wine today
  • 51. Vermouth • Red or White – Originally aged in casks at sea – Now aged in seaside courtyard – Barrels left loosely corked • Speeds aging
  • 52. Vermouth • Herbs and other botanicals blended with wine to impart subtle flavor • White vermouth as aperitif or mixed in martini • Red vermouth in Manhattan or on the rocks
  • 53. Champagne • We cover Champagne in a separate presentation along with sparkling wines