FINAL REPORT pdf

APPAREL INTERNSHIP, ARVIND LIFESTYLE APPARELS 2015
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ARVIND LIMITED, LIFESTYLE APPAREL,
JEANS DIVISION
MYSORE ROAD, BANGALORE
Internship Duration: - 25th
May to 29TH
AUGUST, 2015
APPAREL INTERNSHIP REPORT
Under the Guidance and Supervision of:
MRS. V PRIYADARSHINI
Submitted By:
RAJIV RANJAN
VIBHANSHU SRIVASTAVA
DFT – SEM 7
NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY, HYDERABAD

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DECLARATION
This is to declare that this document is an original work done by the following students
of Department of Fashion Technology, semester 7 under the guidance of the college
mentor “Mrs. V Priyadarshini”
Rajiv Ranjan
Vibhanshu Srivastava
Mrs. V Priyadarshini
(Mentor)

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ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
We would sincerely like to thank Arvind Limited, Lifestyle Apparel, Jeans Division,
Mysore road, Bangalore for giving us an opportunity to work and learn in the apparel
industry as an internee. It was great experience learning from expertise in the industry.
It was a very good exposure with newly automated machineries indeed. We would like
to thank our mentor Mr. Shrinivas Naik (Head of Laundry Operations) and Mr. Rajendra
N (Quality Head) for guiding us throughout the internship period and providing a moral
and mental support. We would also like to the hr manager, Mr. Vikas Tripathi & Mr.
Partha Das, for taking care of our needs and for providing encouragement at every step.
We would like to give our heartfelt gratitude to the “head of department” of all the
departments that we studied for letting us go through the processes in detail with the
help of provided person.
On the other part, we would like to thank our centre co-coordinator “Mr. Shakeel Iqbal”
for providing us the chance to do the internship and our college mentor “Mrs.
Priyadarshini” for guiding us throughout the internship span. It was a good experience
visiting Arvind ltd. And learning the new perceptions, methods, techniques and
atomization related to the textiles.
Lastly, we would like to thank our parents, friends and co-internees for boosting up our
strength and helping us whenever we needed. Without them we would not had been
able to do this document.

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TABLE OF CONTENT
S.NO TOPIC PAGE NO.
1. ABOUT THE COMPANY 8-20
2. INTRODUCTION 21-22
3. CHAPTER 1- MERCHANDISING 23-30
4. CHAPTER 2- STORE DEPARTMENT 31-35
5. CHAPTER 3- FABRIC STORAGE 36-43
6. CHAPTER 4- TRIMS STORAGE 44-47
7. CHAPTER 5- LABORATORY 48-56
8. CHAPTER 6- SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING 57-72
9. CHAPTER 7- CUTTING 73-87
10. CHAPTER 8 - SEWING 88-100
11. CHAPTER 9 – INDUSTRIAL ENGINEERING 101-104
12. CHAPTER 10 - WASHING 105-130
13. CHAPTER 11 – FINISHING AND PACKAGING 131-141
15 CHAPTER 12. PROJECTS 142-242
15.A PROJECT #1 143-186
15.B PROJECT #2 187-242
16 BIBLIOGRAPHY 243
17 ANNEXURES 244

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List of Figures and Tables
Figure .No TOPIC PAGE NO.
1 Work Flow in Organization 22
1.1 Process Flow In Merchandising Department 25
1.2 Process Functionality In Merchandising Department 26
1.3 Role Of Market And Product Merchandising 29
1.4 Hierarchy In Merchandising 30
2.1 Fabric And trim Storage 31
3.1 Fabric Storage 36
3.2 Layout of Fabric Storage 37
3.3 Process Flow Of Fabric Storage 38
3.4 Sections Of Fabric Storage 38
3.5 Shade Segregation Details 40
3.6 Fabric Inspection Process 42
3.7 Activity chart Of fabric Storage 43
4.1 Trim Storage 44
4.2 Layout of Trim Storage 45
4.3 Process Flow of Trim Storage 46
5.1 Tests performed in Lab 51
6.1 CAD & Sampling Department 57
6.2 Layout Of Sampling Department 59

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6.3 Cutting Section Of Sampling Department 67
6.4 Sewing Section Of sampling Department 69
7.1 Cutting Department 73
7.2 Layout Of Cutting Department 74
7.3 Process Flow Of Cutting Department 75
7.4 Activity Flowchart Of Cutting Department 77
7.5 Fabric Relaxation 79
7.6 Spreading 80
7.7 Labeling & Cutting 83
7.8 Embroidery section 85
7.9 Numbering, Bundling & Audit Section 87
8.1 Sewing department 88
8.2 Sewing Lines 90
8.3 Layout Of sewing Lines 91
8.4 Process Flow Of Sewing department 93
8.5 Wash care label Standard 97
9.1 Industrial Engineering Department 101
10.1 S.O.P Of Washing Department 106
10.2 Layout Of Dry Washing 107
10.3 Process Flow of Laser operations 109
10.4 Hand scrapping 111

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10.5 Tacking 113
10.6 Resin Wash 114
10.7 Crocking 115
10.8 curing 115
10.9 Layout Of wet Processing 117
10.10 Grinder 118
10.11 PP Spray 119
10.12 Process cycle Of Stone Wash 121
10.13 Pumice Stones for Stone Wash 122
10.14 Sponge used For Sponge Wash 125
10.15 Semi Wash & final Wash Loader 125
10.16 Hydro Extractor 127
10.17 Material flow In wet washing 129
11.1 Finishing department 131
11.2 Process Flow Of Finishing Department 135
11.3 Process Layout 140

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S.No. TABLES Pg. No.
3.1 4 pt. system 41
6.1 Stitching Steps For denim Jeans 70
8.1 Capacity details Of Wet Process 92
8.2 Operational Breakdown Of Sewing Section 95
8.3 Machine types & Needles 98
10.1 SMV Of whiskering 108
10.2 SMV of Hand Scrapping 112
10.3 SMV Of Crinckling & Curing 112
10.4 SMV Of Hydro Extraction 116
10.5 Methods Of Washing 126
10.6 Machine Details Of Wet Process 128
10.7 Machine Details Of Dry process 130
10.8 Tacking 130
11.1 Machine Details For Finishing Department 136
11.2 Capacity Details For Finishing Department 136
11.3 Manpower Details For Finishing Department 137
11.4 Time study Of Ricky Youth 132
11.5 SMV details Of Various Buyers 138
11.6 Machine Details 139

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Table of Figures for PROJECT#2
Figure .No TOPIC PAGE NO.
1.0 Operational Breakdown Of Mould Whiskering 190
1.1 Setup Of Suspender 191
1.2 Elastic Band Implementation 193
1.3 Elastic Bands With Velcro Used For The Setup 195
1.4 Cello Tape Attachment 196
1.5 Elastic Band Attachment 196
1.6 Operational And Time Breakdown Of Puncture Patches 198
1.7 The Breakdown Of Puncture Patches Process After
Implementation
201
1.8 Manpower Reduction For Puncture Patches Process 202
2.1 Standard Procedure For Developing Module Setup 206
2.2 Dry Process Update Chart 208
2.3 H&M Hand Sanding Report 209
2.4 LEVI’S Hand Sanding Report 210
2.5 Hand Sanding Final Checking Report 211
2.6 Mould Whiskering Final Checking Report 212
2.7 Operators Hourly Production Report 213
2.8 Dry Process QA audit Final Report 214
2.9 Dry process QA audit Report 215
2.10 Dry process Q.A audit report 216

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2.11 Set Theory Of Constraints 218
2.12 Washing Quality Checking Report 222
2.13 Washing Rework And Rejection Details 223
2.14 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report-
Final Wash
225
2.15 Washing Quality Process Control Lot Wise Audit Report-
Semi Wash
226
2.16 Washing And Dry Process Control Wise Report 227
2.17 Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Semi) 228
2.18 Washing Process Control-Initial 5 Lots(Final) 229
2.19 Washing Quality Checking Report 231
2.20 Washing Quality Checking Report- Dry Process 231
2.21 Washing Quality Process Control Wise Audit Report 233
2.22 Washing Process Control- Initial 4 Lots 234
2.23 Quality And Audit Module Setup Through ISO XPRESS 235
2.24 Log In Screen 237
2.25 Home Screen 237
2.26 Quality Audit Option 238
2.27 “Internal Audit” Screen 238
2.28 “Internal Audit Record” Screen 239
2.29 “Report” Screen 240
2.30 “Attachments” Screen 240
2.31 “Template” Screen 241

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Arvind Limited started with a share capital of Rs 2,525,000 ($55,000) in the year 1931.
With the aim of manufacturing the high-end superfine fabrics Arvind invested in very
sophisticated technology. With 52,560 ring spindles, 2552 doubling spindles and 1122
looms it was one of the few companies in those days to start along with spinning and
weaving facilities in addition to full-fledged facilities for dyeing, bleaching, finishing and
mercerizing. The sales in the year 1934, three years after establishment were Rs 45.76
lakh and profits were Rs 2.82 lakh. Steadily producing high quality fabrics, year after
year, Arvind took its place amongst the foremost textile units in the country.
In the mid 1980’s the textile industry faced another major crisis. With the power
loom churning out vast quantities of inexpensive fabric, many large composite mills lost
their markets, and were on the verge of closure. Yet that period saw Arvind at its
highest level of profitability. There could be no better time, concluded the Management,
for a rethink on strategy. The Arvind management coined a new word for it new strategy
– Reno vision. It simply meant a new way of looking at issues, of seeing more than the
obvious and that became the corporate philosophy.
The national focus paved way for international focus and Arvind’s markets shifted
from domestic to global, a market that expected and accepted only quality goods. An in-
depth analysis of the world textile market proved an eye opener. People the world over
were shifting from synthetic to natural fabrics. Cottons were the largest growing
segments. But where conventional wisdom pointed to popular priced segments, Reno
vision pointed to high quality premium niches. Thus in 1987-88 Arvind entered the
export market for two sections -Denim for leisure & fashion wear and high quality fabric
for cotton shirting and trousers. By 1991 Arvind reached 1600 million meters of Denim
per year and it was the third largest producer of Denim in the world.
About the Company | Introduction

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The underlying theme running across the broad spectrum of
all business activities at Arvind is that of enhancing lifestyles
of people, across all diversities and demographics.
OUR PHILOSOPHY
WE BELIEVE
In people and their unlimited potential; in content and in focus
on problem solving; in teams for effective performance, in the
power of the intellect.
WE ENDEAVOUR
To select, train and coach people to obtain higher
responsibilities; to nurture talent, and to build leaders for the
corporations of tomorrow; to reward, celebrate and activate all
intellectual business contributions.
WE DREAM
Of excellence in all endeavors; of mutual benefit and
prosperity; of making the world a better place to live in.
About the Company | Company’s Vision
‘We will enable
people to
experience a
better quality of
life by providing
enriching and
inspiring lifestyle
solutions’.

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The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture
of denim in India. Today with an installed capacity of over 110 million meters per
annum, Arvind is a leading producer of denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and
Sustainability have been Arvind’s core competency and have played a key role in
Arvind’s success. The use of sophisticated ultramodern technology under the guidance
of world-renowned designers has enabled Arvind to deliver many firsts in the
international markets. All Arvind’s products are designed and modeled on the basis of
expert design inputs coming from Arvind’s designers based out of India, Japan, Italy
and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the hallmark of
distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
· Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim
· Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
· Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, and Linen
· Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
· Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
· Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Arvind’s labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025
certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc.
Denim

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Arvind’s knits department has an annual knitting capacity of 5,000 tons. The knits
vertical has a fabric dyeing capacity of 5000 tons per annum and yarn dyeing capacity
of 1800 tons per annum. It has the ability to process both tubular and open-width fabrics
and offers specialty finishes like mercerization, singeing and various forms of brushing
and peaching.
Basic knits:
Jersey, Pique, Rib, and Interlock
Specialty knits: Yarn-dyed, Auto stripers, Jacquards, and Stretch fabric
Fibers: Cotton, Excel, Viscose, Modal, Polyester
Finishes: Mercerization, Brushing, Peaching, Aero-finish.
Marks & Spencer – Eddie Bauer – Zara – Josepha Banks
Knits

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A world without boundaries is a promise of a global marketplace. At Arvind, our range of
fabrics is universal in appeal. We aim to inspire a diverse mix of customers enriching
lifestyles globally. We have successfully established ourselves as a one-stop shop for
apparel solutions catering to an array of national and international clients.
 Bottoms: 7.2 million pieces of jeans per annum
 Formal & Casual tops: 6 million pieces per annum
 Knit tops: 3.6 million pieces per annum
 Our specialized capabilities for adding value to our products include:
 Automated Placement Printing Machinery
 India’s largest washing facility with Tonello machines for wet processes
 Bohemian machines and Laser tech for unique and automated dry
processes
 Skilled artisans for hand processes
Gap Inc – Patagonia – Tommy Hilfiger – Quicksilver – Brooks Brothers – Silver Jeans –
Calvin Klein – FCUK – Pull & Bear – Jack & Jones – Energie – Esprit – S.Oliver – Mexx
– Sisley – Benetton – Coin
Garment Exports

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We envision world leadership in the field of advanced materials offering high-tech
textile solutions for critical and composite applications.
Arvind Ltd., A US $ 1.3 billion Lalbhai Group company has created the Advanced
Textiles Business. Building further on our legacy of innovation, we have brought a new
level of sophistication to manufacturing fabrics. Our Pro1 range of branded fabrics and
composite textiles includes solutions for growing industrial sectors like Personal
Protection, Industrial Filtration, Wind Energy, Defense, Auto Components,
Transportation, and Housing & Infrastructure.
Products in the Pro1 range include:
 Fire Protection Fabrics
 Chemically treated Flame Retardant Fabrics
 Proban
 Pyrovatex
 Inherent Fire Resistant Fabrics
 Nomex
 Protex (Modacrylic)
 High Tech Applications
 Filtration Fabrics
 Anti-Ballistic Fabrics
 Nylon Fabrics
 Carbon-Glass-Aramid Fabrics
Arvind is amongst a few organizations worldwide with a portfolio of brands that are as
distinctive and relevant across diverse consumers. At Arvind, brands work across
multiple channels, price points and consumer segments. The expanse of the Arvind
Advanced Materials

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brandscape is spread across the Indian market with around 273 standalone brand
stores in addition to 975 counters selling through key accounts and multibrand outlets
across India.
Own Brands Licensened Brands Joint Venture Brands
Mainstream Bridge to Luxury Bridge to Luxury
Excalibur Gant U.S.A. 1949 Tommy Hilfiger
Flying Machine Energie’
Popular Premium Premium
Ruf&Tuf USPA Lee
New Port University Arrow Wrangler
Izod
Popular
Cherokee
Mossimo

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Arvind runs India's largest Value Retail Chain -
Megamart. The MegaMart format offers a unique
and differentiated proposition to the consumers. It offers mega brands at amazingly low
prices and provides a retail experience of a high-end department store.
The Megamart stores range in size from 2000 sq ft to 65000 sq ft. The larger stores are
called Big Megamart and there are 6 such stores across Bangalore, Chennai, Pune and
Mumbai. The smaller formats spreads across the country are 205 in number. Mega mart
is expanding rapidly and is expected to be a Rs. 1000 cr chain within the next two
years.
The brands sold exclusively in Mega mart include:
RUGGERS - SKINN - ELITUS - DONUTS - KARIGARI - MEA CASA - AUBURN HILL -
BAY ISLAND - COLT - LEISHA- EDGE
Mega Mart Retail

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After decades of ruling the national and international fabric markets, Arvind has now
introduced The Arvind Store, a unique concept in fabrics and apparel retail. The Arvind
Store brings together, under one roof, the best that Arvind has to offer. It is a
convergence of three of Arvind’s strongest capabilities, the best of fabrics from Arvind’s
textiles division, leading apparel brands from Arvind Brands and bespoke styling
solutions based on the latest garment styles from Arvind Studios. In a world where
bespoke tailoring meets cutting edge fashion, The Arvind Store will create a shopping
experience to rival the best in the Indian Marketplace.
Over a 1000 different fabric styles across shirting, suiting and denim
Leading apparel brands such as Arrow, US Polo & Flying Machine
Arvind Denim Labs (ADL), a bespoke denim concept offering customized washed denim
- a first of its kind in India and perhaps the world
Arvind Studio – A styling and tailoring solution to rival the best brands in the world
The Arvind Store

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Corporate
Jayesh Shah
Director & CFO
Anang Lalbhai
MD - Arvind Products
Lifestyle Fabrics
Aamir Akhtar
CEO, Lifestyle Fabrics - Denim
Susheel Kaul
CEO, Knits & Woven Fabrics
PD Chavda
President, Voiles
Lifestyle Apparel
Ashish Kumar
CEO, Lifestyle Apparel - Jeans & Shirts
Brands & Retail
J.Suresh
Managing Director - Brands & Retail
Knowledge Academy
Milan Shah
CEO, Knowledge Academy
About the Company | Executive Leaders

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MR. SANJAY S. LALBHAI
(CHAIRMAN AND MANAGING DIRECTOR)
Mr. Sanjay S. Lalbhai, 58 years, is the Chairman and Managing Director of the
Company. He is a Science Graduate with a Master's degree in Business Management
and has been associated with the Company for more than 33 years.
MR. JAYESH SHAH
(DIRECTOR AND CHIEF FINANCIAL OFFICER)
Mr. Jayesh K. Shah, 52 years, is the Whole time Director with the designation of
Director and Chief Financial Officer of the Company. He is a Commerce Graduate and a
Chartered Accountant and has been with the company since 1st July, 1993.
MR. PUNIT LALBHAI
(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Punit Lalbhai, 30 years, is an MBA from INSEAD (France) specializing in Strategy
and General Management, along with Post-Graduate degree in Masters of
Environmental Science from Yale University, and a Bachelors degree in Science
(Conservation Biology) from University of California, USA.
MR. KULIN LALBHAI
(EXECUTIVE DIRECTOR)
Mr. Kulin Lalbhai, 27years, is an MBA from Harvard Business School (USA), along with
a Bachelors degree in Science (Electrical Engineering) from Stanford University, USA.
About the Company | Board of Directors

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About the Company | International Buyers

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About the Company | Own Brands

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INTRODUCTION
DENIM
The late 1980’s saw Arvind pioneer the manufacture of denim in India. Today with an
installed capacity of over 110 million meters per annum, Arvind is a leading producer of
denim worldwide. Design, Innovations and Sustainability have been our core
competency and have played a key role in our success. The use of sophisticated
ultramodern technology under the guidance of world-renowned designers has enabled
Arvind to deliver many firsts in the international markets. All products are designed and
modeled on the basis of expert design inputs coming from our designers based out of
India, Japan, Italy and the United States. All Arvind Denim products come with the
hallmark of distinctiveness and quality.
Some Examples:
Shuttle looms for Selvedge denim
Name selvedge and Stretch selvedge
Unique Fibers like Excel, Jute, Silk, Linen
Natural Indigo and Vegetable dyes
Unique concept products like Indigo voiles & Handspun denim
Organic, BCI & Sustainable denim
The denim facility at Arvind is accredited with ISO 9001, ISO 14001, OEKOTEX 100,
GOTS, and Organic exchange standard. Labs are certified by NABL (ISO 17025
certification) and customers like Levi’s, Lee, and Wrangler etc. The workflow of the
company is shown in figure 1.

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WORK FLOW IN THE ORGANISATION
Figure I .Work Flow in the organization
MERCHANDISING
SAMPLING
PURCHASE
STORE
PPC
CUTTING
SEWING
WASHING
FINISHING
PACKAGING
SHIPMENT
DESIGNMARKETING
HR

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CHAPTER 1.MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Upon confirmation of the order from the buyer the job of the merchandising department
starts. A merchandiser is the middleman between the manufacturer and the buyer.
Merchandiser is solely responsible for coordinating inter departmental activities and to
get the shipment dispatched on schedule. A merchandiser takes care of all the orders
from his/her designated buyer.
The merchandiser also coordinates the sampling procedure. He gets all the samples
made in various stages and sends them to the buyer and carries out the necessary
corrections & additions told by the buyer. The sampling process is a lengthy & very
crucial process, because what you get approved finally by the buyer, if your bulk
shipment doesn’t match even in the tiniest of specifications, the whole shipment can be
rejected. So, a merchandiser should very clearly and carefully examine & analyze each
sample before he sends to the buyer & get approval.
MERCHANDISING SECTION
A Merchandising division surrounds the concept of the target customer and translates
the customer preference into a product line for the rest of the apparel firm.
Merchandising is the planning, development and presentation of product line for
identified target market with regard to prices, assortment, styling and timing.
Merchandising department is the central coordinating point for line development, design
execution and delivery of products. It plays a major role in the industry and they
communicate with all other department to give the information from the Buyer and get
the things done on the required date. Merchandiser deals with the Buyer and the
suppliers and through them the order is processed and delivery dates are met on time.
Merchandising involves the conceptualization, development, procurement of raw
material, sourcing, planning and coordination between all the departments for production
and delivery of apparel products to the customer. The Merchandising Department is
responsible for selling the manufactured product to the buyer. It is responsible for getting
the orders and hence generates a source of revenue for the company. A team of

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merchants, along with people from various departments such as Production, Sampling,
Quality, are responsible for overseeing the development of the product.
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects.
Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co
coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in
regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility
of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication
etc.
Merchandiser will check whether it is possible to go ahead with the style and if the style
is feasible will get the costing done and get the sample ready. The goal is the timely
delivery of costing details and samples so as to receive an order from the buyer.
Merchandiser needs to make the time and action plan, allocating time to various
activities keeping in mind the resources available in hand.
Communications with overseas and domestic suppliers, approval of production
samples, and Merchandisers have to negotiate with the buyers on pricing, work out
delivery schedules, and investigate for future buyers.
The hierarchy and the function flow is given in figure1.0 and the process flow is shown
in figure1.1.

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1.1 MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
Process Flow in Merchandising
Figure 1.1 Process flow in merchandising
Functions Performed By Merchandising Department
The functions performed by the Merchandising department can be broadly classified
under the following headlines.
1) Communication
2) Co-ordination
Recieve P.O from
the buyer
Recieve tech pack &
sample
Tech pack & sample
sent to sampling
and tech dept.
Sample sent to
buyer with test
reports for approval
send tech dept for
correction
Fabric and trims
ordered after
approval
Trims and fabric
approved
OB recieved from
IED & Production
plan from PPC
Package file sent to
all dept. with all
details
Time and action
chart prepared for
orders
Packed garment
shipped to buyer
with tech pack copy

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3) Planning
4) Follow up
5) Sourcing
6) Costing
7) Sampling
8) Compliance &
9) Documentation and Maintaining Records
These steps are made practical through the functionality flow (shown in figure 1.2) in the
merchandising department.
Figure 1.2 Process functionality in merchandising
In an export house, merchandising is a combination of business and technical aspects.
Senior merchandisers have responsibilities of products development and co
DGD received
Development
Sample
Proto Sample
Fit Sample/Sellers
Sample
Yellow Tag
Sample
Green Tag
Sample
PP Sample
Bulk Production

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coordinating with the buyer, the garment styles that meet buyer’s expectations in
regards to delivery, quality and price point. Junior merchandisers have the responsibility
of handling paper work and follow up, detailing with buyers, overseas communication
etc.
The Merchandiser performs the following follow ups:
 With Buyer to send complete info about the styles
 With all dept. to check everything is going as planned
 With Buyers to send the raw material for sampling
 With Suppliers to get raw materials in house on time
 With Sampling dept. and seeing that samples are ready
 With the Buyers to send the comments and approvals
 With Production dept. to check whether the production is on time so that
the bulk delivery schedules are met.
Key Responsibilities of a Merchandiser:
I. Communication
II. Coordination
III. Planning
IV. Follow up
V. Sourcing
VI. Costing
VII. Negotiation
VIII. Sampling
IX. Compliance
X. Managerial
XI. Decision Making
XII. Documentation and Maintaining Records
Merchandiser role in Production Development

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A merchandiser can have both buyer and seller roles. As a buyer for materials needed
in production, his duties might include sourcing vendors, securing samples and
communicating between the export house and suppliers. In the seller role, the
merchandiser helps buyers with developing merchandise specifications for export house
orders. Export house duties can include developing samples and presentation portfolios
used to secure prospective buyers. An educational background in design may be
sought for an export merchandiser whose primary duty is to assist clients with product
development. In the garment industry, for instance, the merchandiser may help a client
develop custom specifications for garment designs, including fabric and color
selections.
OTHER ROLES OF MERCHANDISER
Order Follow-Up.
Prepares a timetable during pre-production and production stages.
Conducts plan visits to follow-up the status of the product/order.
Closely monitors the production process and sends progress reports to the
buyer.
Establishes clear measures for quality control, and affects the same in inspecting
all orders placed during production and post-production prior to loading.
Ensures on-time delivery of the goods to the buyer.
Negotiates with buyer in case of delay.
WORK OF MERCHANDISER
In every season the garment merchandiser receives tech pack from various buyers.
These tech packs contain information about the garment down to very last detail. Four
copies of these tech packs are made for the following.
INDUSTRIAL IE DEPARTMENT.
CAD DEPARTMENT (PATTERN MAKING).
SAMPLING DEPARTMENT.

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SELF
MERCHANDISER ROLES IN DIFFERENT WORK PROCESS
Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as
bulk purposes.
Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims.
There are different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material,
buttons and zippers etc.
The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling request forms
and executes the styles for sampling.
A final sample called the sealer sample or the pre-production sample is made which is
sent to the factory for bulk production. During production, if any shortage in fabric or
trims or any other problems arise, the merchant is informed, and they acquire more
fabric or trims, or under extreme conditions, inform the buyer for an extension in delivery
date. Market and product merchandising are two main forms of merchandising. These
have got various versatile roles shown in figure1.3. These two forms depends lot on the
hierarchy of merchandising(shown in figure1.4)
Figure 1.3 Role of market and product merchandising
• Contact with buyers
• Sending samples
• Getting approvals & rejections and
futher communications
• Payment terms and other
negotiations
Marketing
Merchandising
• Sourcing of raw materials
• Costing
• Sample development at various
stages
• Production status
• Completion of order on time and
with required buyer specifications
Product
Merchandising

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Figure 1.4 Hierarchy in merchandising
The marketing department is responsible for procuring the orders from buyers globally.
Either the buyer can approach the company or the marketing team will present their
products at the world stage to receive orders. Thus, it is imperative to maintain reliable
and trustworthy relations with the vendors.
At Arvind Mills, Mysore road the marketing team is divided under three heads. The U.S.
team caters to the business interests in the states. The European team looks after the
buyers from the European countries while the Domestic team caters to the domestic
buyers.
Fabric Merchandiser is in charge of purchasing the fabric, for sampling as well as bulk
purposes. Trims Merchandisers are in charge of purchasing the trims. There are
different merchants for organizing interlining, thread, packing material, buttons and
zippers etc. The garment merchandiser then fills pattern request forms and sampling
request forms and executes the styles for sampling. Based on the issues that crop up
during sampling, changes are made, re submits are made over and over again, until the
required look and feel of the garment is achieved.
Head Merchandiser
Senior Marketing
Merchandiser
Junior Marketing
Merchandiser
Senior Production
Merchandiser
Junior Production
Merchandiser

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CHAPTER 2. STORE DEPARTMENT
One of the major and important departments in any industries is the stores. The
department involved in purchasing the raw materials and required accessories and
keeps ready for production with a view not to suffer due to non-availability of materials
at these of actual requirement.
In the garment industry stores maintain fabric, trims and accessories record of all
incoming and outgoing materials is the responsibility of the stores.
Stores normally are the centralized section fabric storage for the unit after for
stabilization of the whole unit fabric is ordered by the sourcing department in
accordance with the requirement of the merchandiser for the export order. For job
orders store in charge of the respective unit are the responsible for the follow up for
placing the purchase order and the receipt in most cases or in other words the hierarchy
level of the stores is as follows in connection to the decision making. Figure 2.1 showing
the storage of fabric and trims.
Figure 2.1.Fabric and Trim storage

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Store at Arvind is divided into two sections:
Fabric Store
Trim Store
The fabric requirement of a particular order depends on its consumption. The
consumption varies with the style and size of the garment. The fabric store has a
capacity to store around 2-3 lacs meter of fabric. 95% of the fabric requirement is
procured from Arvind’s denim fabric unit at Naroda in Ahmedabad. Other mills that
provide fabric at times are Raymond’s, Ashima etc. Fabric is at times sourced from
Artistic Millers, Pakistan & Hong Kong.
The fabric is inspected using 4 – point defects system. As a norm 10% of fabric
received from Naroda unit is inspected. For other suppliers, 20% of rolls is inspected.
The merchandiser sends the Purchase order (PO) sheet to the fabric store head. The
required number of pieces (garments) is given in the sheet. After this the Fabric Cutting
Chart is received from the Cutting section head. In this chart the meters of fabric
required by the cutting room is given.
3 % is added as a waste percentage for fabric. 5 % is added for the rejection of
garments. Hence, a total of 8 % of the order quantity is added. This is the total quantity
of the fabric required to be ordered from the main stores.
Thus after all the required reports are received, the sub store in-charge maintains a
Fabric Package File. This package file contains several charts. They are:
Shade Band Approval: This chart is received from the merchandiser. This chart
contains various details regarding the shades of the fabric. Style no, Buyer,
Count and Construction, PO no, Received rolls, Color and code, Supplier Shade.
This chart contains a swatch of the different shades of the fabric and the code
given to them by the buyer and the store in-charge himself.

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Swatch Card: This card contains the details – Date, Design no, Style no, Count
and construction and buyer name. This card also contains the before and after
wash swatches and shade bands of the fabric.
Sample Card: Swatch and sample cards being the same, contains the defect
details that are present in the fabric. The common defects observed were:
Slub
Foreign yarn
Dye Patch
Stain
Face Card Approval: This card contains a swatch of the fabric showing the face
side of the fabric. Certain suppliers mark the face side of the fabric, however for
the rest for the fabric where the face side determination is not easy; the
merchandiser decides the face side of the fabric and marks it. This card is also
received from the merchandiser.
Fusing Details: The sub store also stores the fusing materials. They also maintain
the fusing details.
Shrinkage report: The package file also contains the shrinkage report. This is
received from the merchandiser.
Fabric Quality Inspection Summary: This sheet is received from the merchandiser
and is maintained in the package file.
After the fabric is ordered, the store in-charge maintains a Daily Fabric Status Report.
This report contains the details of the fabric ordered. That is, the quantity of the fabric
received and the quantity of the fabric that is yet to be received (Balance).
The store in-charge according to the quantity required and the availability of fabric in the
store, issues the fabric to the cutting section. Thus the store in-charge fills in the rest of
the form, the details – Quantity issued and Dept.
The fabric is issued in the FIFO order – First In First Out. That is, the fabric that is
received first from the main stores is issued first to the cutting section.

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The end – bits (left over bits of the fabric in the cutting room) were also being stored in
the sub store. The shrinkage bits were also being stored in the sub store.
The trims store maintains both garment materials and non-garment materials. Garment
materials such as thread, zipper, shank and rivet, snap buttons etc are to be sourced
as per buyer’s requirement before the actual production. Non-garment materials include
items such as stationary, hardware that assist production indirectly.
Primarily trim store ensures that there is no shortage of trims supply for the production.
First of all, the trims store in-charge receives the PO copy. This PO copy contains
various details such as the PCD Date, Sample Date, PCD Sample, Prototype Sample,
Order chart, RMR.
The trim store in-charge takes out only the Raw Material Status Report (RMR). This
report gives the details as to the which trims are to be received, the consumption per
garment, the required qty, the qty ordered, the qty received and the balance left to
receive.
There are 2 parts to the trims store.
o Stitching Part
o Packing Part
After the trims are received, they are checked and then an Inward Challan is made. In
the quantity ordered, 3% extra is always added as for wastage considerations.
The inspection of the trims and accessories is done by the supplier itself .Hence, when
the trims are received; they are only stored and issued to the production at the trims
store.
However, for buttons counting is done.
The trim store maintains a trim chart. In this chart are the details –
Fabric swatch

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fabric code
fabric color
Matching thread for the fabric
Labels
Buttons
Zippers
Rivets
Elastics
The store then receives the Requisition Slip which contains the details – material, Qty
indent (required), qty issued and the dept.
The trims and accessories are then issued to the required dept as per the required qty.
The packing part of the trims means the issuing of the trims at the packing stage to be
included in the packing. E.g.:- Packing polythene.
The next form filled is the Trim Order Completion Report (OCR). This form is filled by
the trims store head at the dispatch stage of the garment. It contains many details –
Materials, Consumption/garment, required, received, consumed, sent, total, balance,
physical balance.
This report basically gives the number of pieces of trims that were required and that
were received. It also gives the balance that should be left – (total – received quantity).
Store at Arvind is divided into two sections:
(i) Fabric store
(ii)Trim store

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CHAPTER 3.FABRIC STORAGE
Figure 3.1 Fabric Storage
Fabric sourcing department is basically engaged in determining how and where its
merchandise such that fabric will be obtained as shown in figure3.1. It works in co-
ordination with the merchandising department and looks after the delivery of the
required goods within the scheduled time and cost. A fabric sourcing executive must
have knowledge about all varieties of fabric in order to execute their function effectively.
The fabrics are sourcing from Ahmadabad basically. The fabrics they are sourcing from
Arvind Textiles, Ahmadabad, Raymonds Textiles etc. The objective of the storage is to
store the fabric in efficient manner and issue the fabric for cutting. After storing the
fabrics in the storage, the QA team inspects the fabric by using 4 point system. For
Arvind fabrics, they checked 10% of the lots and for non-Arvind fabrics; they checked
20% of the lots. The defect points are also specified by the buyers like for Levis, the
average defect acceptance point is 18 points/ 100 sq. mt. individually and average
defects acceptance point is 14 points/ 100 sq mt (roll wise). For other brands the

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average DPT is 24 points / 100 sq. mt. individually and and roll wise 20 points / 100 sq.
mt.
For storing they are using racks as per the buyer requirements. Like for making Levis
garments, the fabrics must be stored in racks. For GAP, they put the rolls in Pyramid
way, so that every part of the roll gets same pressure during storing so that no
dimensional instability happen. For, Raymonds, they put the rolls in crisscross way.
Objective is that the Fabric will be stored for easy identification of shade, shrinkage,
width and P.O shown in figure3.4. Layout of the fabric storage is shown in shown in
figure3.2. The process flow of the fabric storage is from the fabric ordering till it is
received shown in figure3.3
LAYOUT
Figure 3.2.Layout Of Fabric Storage

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Process Flow:
Figure 3.3.Process Flow Of Fabric Storage
Figure 3.4.Sections Of Fabric storage
Indent is given
by merchant
Purchase
Order is
prepared
Details are fed
in ERP softwre
'NOW'
Packing List
Verification is
done
Shade/Shrinkag
e/CSV tests are
done
Inspection of
recieved rolls
by 4 pt system
Fabric is sored
in racks or
pallets
Covering of
fabric with
polybag to
avoid dust
Issuing the
fabric to
cutting and
sampling dept
Issue record is
maintained

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1 m2
fabric from every lot is cut and sends to the laboratory for the performance test.
SO that,
One can know about the shrinkage and shade variation in the received fabric.
Shrinkage Test:
1m2
fabric is marked to find out the shrinkage with the help of marker plate in which
marking is done at 15, 30 and 45 cms. Then, same samples are stitched together in the
form of tube. The tube is sent for washing. After washing the shrinkage is measured.
Shade Test:
Shade grouping is done.
The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied. And then
the Shade variation is measured.
After the test, shade numbers are given to the rolls.
The data of the shrinkage of every roll is stored in the database and is provided to the
sampling department during the creation of pattern and production of samples.
We need to be careful in the shade identification thus a standard protocol needs to be
followed (shown in figure3.5)

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Instructions for shade segregation at fabric store
Figure 3.5 shade segregation details
END

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Fabric inspection
 Complete visual inspection is being done. There is no systematic recording.
 Defects like weaving or colored patta are recorded without measuring the
dimension of the defects.
 If fabric inspection is not done carefully, so there are chances that all defects
may not to be recorded.
 Fabric inspection reports are at the discretion of the operator only.
 Defects are recorded at the end of the inspection, as this may lead to mistakes.
 Fabrics coming in lots are not taken for a second inspection.
 The 4-point inspection system is followed for the fabric inspection.( shown in
figure3.6)
4 POINT SYSTEM
Size of the defect Penalty Points
Defects up to 3 inches 1
3 inches < Defects < 6 inches 2
6 inches < Defects < 9 inches 3
Defects more than 9 inches 4
Holes and Openings 4
Table no. 3.1. “4 point inspection”
Unit – points / 100 sq. yards
Formula – (total pts. In the roll x 36 x 100) / Fabric length in yards x width in inches
Major defects that are encountered are: -
1. Weaving
2. Dyeing (patta, center, selvage, streaks)
3. Prints (print repeat, pattern/ design, choke ups) etc.

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A maximum of four points is charged to one linear yard. In this system the length of the
defect is measured to determine the penalty points. The four-point system provides for
the evaluation of the fabric on either a linear yard or square yard basis. As the fabric
with more width, will have more area. Or we can say that a 72” wide fabric will have
twice the area when compared to a 36” wide fabric. As the area of the fabric is more,
this is obvious that the fabric will contain twice the number of defects.
When rolls are checked according to this system and points are calculated. This again
is a matter of agreement with buyer’s clothing manual. Some buyers working on low
price prints can accept fabric with DHU as high as 40-44 points.
1) 20-25 points – Acceptable with most buyers
2) 25 & above 35 – Discussed with buyer & decided.
3) 35 & above – Normally considered as reject
Accepted rolls of fabric are then sent to the cutting room when the request for the fabric
comes. A standard procedure is followed for inspection shown in figure3.7
Figure 3.6.Fabric Inspection Process

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Flow Chart - Fabric Audit Flow chart
Figure 3.7.Process Flow of Fabric Storage
 PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS
During storage, shade/shrinkage/width are not considered.
No special storage for the fabric which are more stretchable.
Nap direction and grain line are not considered during storage.
Fabric relaxation is not done here.
Racks are used for Levis only.
Kept on the rack
for further
process

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CHAPTER 4 TRIMS STORAGE
Figure 4.1.Trim Storage
This department is similar to the Fabric storage department but the main difference is
that the fabric storage department works for sourcing the fabrics alone as shown in
figure 4.1 while the purchasing department works for the sourcing of accessories and
trims. However, the working procedure is the same. The working is as follows:
The merchandisers give the tech pack and the BOM (Bill Of Materials) for a particular
style to the purchasing department and the concerned person starts the further process
and for costing purposes the in-house price is given like, the cost involved in the
production and also the price involved for a unit involved with respect to the complete
procedure involved for its production.
After the order is being confirmed by the buyer the merchandiser will sit with the other
concerned departments and then the exact quantity required and the breakup of the
trims and accessories with respect to color, size, MOQ, etc., is given by the

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merchandiser to the purchasing department in the form of a sheet which is generally
followed in the industry for all the orders irrespective of the buyer.
This department also keeps in track of all the quantities received in-house timely. The
goods are generally received in breakups as suggested by the merchandiser according
to the requirements stated by the planning and the production department and this
breakups will have specified date and quantity and if this breakups is not being
mentioned then the order is being placed with the supplier several times for small
quantities and PO’s have to be sent all the time so, in order to overcome this breakups
are given. Then the purchase department has to follow up with the supplier for
deliveries as and when the merchandiser asks for the new set of the materials for that
particular style and then the department also has to maintain the receipts and also they
have to maintain the documents of the inspections that are being carried out for those
materials.
Objective: Buying and storage of trims and issuing them to the finishing dept and
sampling dept. Layout shown in figure4.2 and the process flow shown in figure4.3.
LAYOUT
Figure 4.2.Layout Of Trim Storage

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PROCEDURE:
Figure 4.3.Process of Trim Storage
Functions
- Negotiation of prices, quality, delivery place and time with the supplier
- Prepare proposals according to the buyer’s requirement
- Selection of supplier for order
- Co-ordination with the merchandiser, supplier, and finance department
- Store the trims and accessories with approved trim card and issue to the factory
departments.
Purchase request
from merchant
Purchase order
prepared by
purchase dept
Material delivery
by supplier
Goods recieved at
stores after
Invoice
verification
If OK, entry in
inward register
Counting &
handover to
storage dept
Trims card
prepared
Inspection of
recieved material
as per AQL 2.5
If OK, document
material
approved
Make MRN with
location and
details are fed in
SAP
Submit invoice to
accounts
Storage a/c buyer
wise with
approved trim
cards
Issued to the
factory stores by
cross checking
with PRPO
Materials with
trim cards are
sent to issue area
TCR details
informed to
concerned
persons
Disposal plan for
unused trims

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Lead time for Trims and Accessories
The lead time is divided in two parts:
1. Production Lead-time 2. Transit Lead-time
In case of domestic accessories, the production lead-time is 7-10 days and the transit
lead-time is 2 days.
In case of imported accessories, the production lead-time is 3-4 weeks and the transit
lead time is
7-10 days for air and 20-30 days for sea.
QUALITY CHECKINGS
- Thread- color, tex. , shade against shade card, verify with other boxes.
- Zipper- teeth color, size, tape color, slider shape, slider movement, logo
- Labels- care instructions, size, center out, color, barcode numbers
- Elastic- width, color, holes, stretch ability, shrinkage
- Price ticket- style no, barcode no, size, price, centre out, content
- Buttons- types, holes, shape, logo, color, line/size, M/D test
- Poly Bag- size, caution print, print direction, thickness, print quality, sealing
Quality Indicators: Green - accepted, Red – Rejected
Man Power: 1 store in-charge, 1 assistant, 1 quality controller, 6 issuer, 3 helper.
Problems And Defects In This Department: Our Observations
Item wise bin cards or item wise stock in system is not available.
Quality checking area and quarantined product’s area is very small.
Needles and labels are not kept safely, i.e. in cupboard and cotton bin
box respectively.

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CHAPTER 5. LABORATORY
Functioning of the Department
The laboratory in the factory is equipped with all the necessary devices and instruments
that are required for the testing of both the fabric and the accessory items. But, there
are several tests which the buyer prescribes for which the machineries are not available
in the factory for such tests the factory does not have the right machineries so they send
such fabrics or accessories, which requires some other tests to the external laboratories
which are authorized ones with the buyers and the merchant’s approval.
The laboratory generally keeps in touch with three major departments. The departments
and their main functions and applications with the laboratory are as follows.
(i) Fabric sourcing department
The fabric sourcing department sends the samples of fabrics that have to be ordered
later may be for sampling, pilot or for the bulk production. The sourcing department as
soon as it receives the fabric swatches from the supplier they will select the fabrics
which they require for the particular style and then order for a few meters and then after
they receive the small amount then they sent it to the laboratory along with the tests that
are to be carried out for that particular fabric sample. The list of tests that the sourcing
department generally asks for are as follows.
Yarn count
Construction of fabric
Color fastness to washing
Color fastness to crocking
Dimensional stability to washing
Fabric strength (tearing and bursting)
Fabric weight

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(ii) Accessory Stores
The stores receives the raw materials in-house and after this they sampling process
starts and then they have to make a list of the tests that are supposed to be carried out
for that particular accessories and then they send this to the laboratory. The lists of tests
that are generally done for accessories are as follows:
Button breaking test
Colored laces and tapes are tested for color fastness
Color fastness test for elastics
Lining fabrics for their dimensional stability
Corrugated box
(iii) Merchandising Department:
The merchandising department keeps in touch with the laboratory for the general tests
which has to be carried out on the garment samples which are termed as lab dips. The
garment sample is sent to the laboratory with a list of tests that has to be carried out as
per the buyer specifications.
After the tests are been carried out and the results are received then the garment fabric
samples are sent to the external laboratory for tests to be carried out if the buyer
specifies.
Any of the three departments mentioned above, whenever they have to give a
fabric/accessory/garment sample for the testing purpose to the lab then they generally
send it in a format sheet which includes the style number, buyer name, specifications of
the particular material with respect to the composition, construction, material type, color
and other material related details which will help the lab technicians while carrying out
the tests.

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The duration which the lab takes to finish the tests depends on several factors like
Type of test
Urgency of the task
Whether the test has to be carried out internally or externally
Duration of the tests that has to be carried out
Time required in getting the proper and the required output
Number of samples that has to be tested
Generally, as soon as the laboratory receives the sample and the specifications from
any of the departments they proceed on priority basis. If the results are required very
soon and the tests does not involve any kind of long process then that particular sample
is taken first and then tested and sent back within a day, suppose the sample received
involves more number of tests and tests which involve long processing then such tests
takes time about 2 – 3 days and then after receiving the proper output they note down
the readings in the record and then send it the concerned department form where they
received.
Objective:
Tests are done on the fabric and trim to know their properties, strengths and reaction
towards certain chemicals shown in figure5.1 and send the shade and shrinkage reports
to the pattern making section.

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Start
Fabric Sourcing
End
Accessory stores Merchandising
Test Test
Skew
Tensile strength
Dimensional
stability to
washing
Stretch and
recovery
Color fastness to
washing/ crocking/
water/perspiration
pH measurement
Fabric Weight
Appearance
Attachment
strength test
Color fastness
test and elastic
Lining fabrics
Dimensional
Stability
Carry on test
on fabric and
garment as per
buyer
requirement
On meeting
buyer
requirement,
samples to be
sent to lab to
get approval
PROCESS FLOW
Figure 5.1.Tests Performed In Lab

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Fabric Performance Test (FPT):
(i) Shrinkage Test:
- They have to cut samples of 15 cm X 15 cm or 30 cm X 30 cm or 45 cm X 45
cm
- Then, same samples are stitched together in the form of tube and sent for
washing.
- Then the samples are sent for washing and after washing, the lab team take
the measurements and note down the shrinkage %.
- The tests are done two times and average is taken from it and according to
that percentage, the patterns are modified.
(ii) Shade Test:
- Shade grouping is done.
- The washed fabric is placed on 45 degree and D65 light source is applied.
- Shade variation is measured.
- These test reports are sent to the sampling dept. where using CAD, the
patterns are created with the allowances.
(iii) Skew Test:
- Skew - When weft yarns are straight from one end to another end but angled
across the width of fabric.
- Skew % = (Angular division / full width of fabric) x 100
(iv) Tensile strength test:
- Sample needed = 6 x 4 inches
- Gauge length = 3 inches
- The sample is attached between the jaws of the machines and stretched until
the sample gets distorted. Then the reading is taken at that time.

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(v) Tearing strength test:
- Tearing strength is the force required to tear a fabric.
- Sample size = 100 x 75 mm
- Testing area = 43 mm
- According to the template, the fabric sample is cut. Pendulum lever is there
- After placing the fabric, the pendulum is left for the free fall.
- Pendulum weight = 6400 grams.
- Tearing strength (grams) = Pendulum reading (%) x 64
(vi) Color Fastness to crocking:
- Crocking means rubbing.
- The sample is placed on the machine and it is rubbed by the machine for 10
times.
- Sample size = 5x5 cms.
- After rubbing, generally some amount of color goes.
- Then according to the grey scale, the color is matched.
Grey scale = 5 / 4-5 / 4 / 3-4 / 3 / 2-3 / 2 / 1-2 / 1
- According to the buyer specification, the points are measured.
- This test is done on both dry and wet specimens.
(vii) Seam Properties:
- Sample size = 14 x 4 inches
- Gauge length = 6 inches
- For this test, the machine used for tensile strength is used.
- Standard = 11 stitches /inch
- Reading is calculated when the fabric is teared up to 6 inches.

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(viii) Weighing balance:
- GSM is calculated through this test.
- A GSM cutter (diameter=11.3cm) is also there to cut the sample needed.
(ix) Stretch and Recovery test:
- Sample size (in cms) = (5 x 22), (4 x 22), (3 x 22 ), (2 x 22), (1 x 22)
- These 5 specimens are taken for this test.
- The sample is held on one end of the equipment.
- At the other end, according to the sample, weight is hanged.
- Sample is stretched up to a certain limit.
- Then the fabric regains its normal structure.
- Stretch percentage is measured on the meter.
(x) Color Fastness to perspiration
- For this test acidic and basic solutions are formed.
Acidic solution= 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydrochloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl + 2.2
gms Sodium dihydrogen orthophosphate dehydrate
Basic solution = 0.5 of alhestidine mono hydro chloride dehydrate + 5gms NaCl +
2.2 gms Sodium di hydrogen ortho phosphate dehydrate + NaOH (0.1 Normality until
the pH becomes 8)
- Multifibre sample = 10 x 5 cms (acetate + nylon+ cotton+ polyester+acrylic+
wool)
- 2 Garment sample +2 Multifibre Sample are overlapped.
- The 2 overlapped samples are dipped in the acidic and basic solution
respectively for 30 min.
- After 30 min, the samples are squeezed and are placed between the acrylic
plates and 5 kg wt. and put inside the oven for 4 hrs.
- Then the variation in the color due to acidic and basic solution is matched
with the actual fabric.

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(xi) Color fastness to water:
- Same process is done for this test.
- But except the acidic and basic solution, Grade- 3 water (distilled water) is
used.
(xii) pH measurement:
Done after the color fastness tests.
American Standard
- Sample size - 5.5mm/10gm
- Boiled in beaker at 90 – 92 degree C. Add 10 gms sample and leave it
for 10 min.
- Leave for cooling.
- Remove the sample and put this water in the pH measuring container in
which electrode is inserted.
- The pH meter will show the pH of the fabric.
European Standard
- 3 samples are tested.
- Normality KCl or Grade 3 water is the medium which are taken in 3
conical flasks in which 3 samples of 2gms each are dipped.
- They are placed on Textile lab shaker for 2 hrs (rpm30). It shakes the
solutions in which the samples are placed.
- Then, the solution is directly put in the pH meter which shows the pH.

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Fabric Performance Test (FPT):
(xiii) Attachment Strength Test: (trims)
- In this test, the strength of the attachments are checked. For example,
strength of
shanks, rivets, buttons, loops, kids decoration items are checked.
- Universal Unit – kg (unit is dependent on buyer)
U.S standard = 16 lbs
European standard = 19N/10 sec
(xiv) Appearance after wash:
- This test is related to the appearance of the garment after washing process.
- The fabric is just observed properly and changes are noted down.
(xv) Dimensional Stability:
- Dimension of the fabric is measured before washing.
- The fabric piece is sent to the washing department.
- Again the dimension of the fabric is measured.
- The changes in the dimensions of the fabric show how stable they are.
 PROBLEMS AND DEFECTS IN THIS DEPARTMENT : OUR OBSERVATIONS
Lots of machines are there. So, direction or procedures for using the
machine should be pasted.

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CHAPTER6.SAMPLING AND PATTERN MAKING
Figure 6.1.CAD and Sampling Department
In any export house, the sampling department shown in figure6.1 is one of the most
important departments and it plays a vital in the uplifting of a unit. Sampling department
directly co-ordinates with the merchandising and production department. Sampling is
done to see how the product will look like when produced in bulk and to check whether
there are any discrepancies in the pattern are made according to the buyer’s
specification.Merchandiser procures order from the buyer. The buyer sends spec sheet,
sketches, fabric details, embellishment details, stitch type etc to the merchandiser.
Merchandiser files this information along with the details regarding costing, average,
proto, fit, correction,size set and approval in to a style package and hands it over to the
Sampling department head. Sampling is the product development stage. It is a process
by which a small number of garments are made so as to match the buyer requirement
and to get approval from the buyer so as to start off the production. The sample
garments represent the accuracy of the patterns and quality of production skills and

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techniques. The samples not only serve the purpose of communicating correctly with
the buyer regarding their styles and products, but it also helps to calculate the fabric
consumption along with that of thread and other accessories used. It is different from
bulk production as here each tailor is multi skilled. This department makes samples on
the basis of specifications and requirements sent by the buyer in the tech pack.
Sampling is basically the process of producing few garment in order to match the
various buyer requirements such as the design features, size, style etc. as soon as any
order is received the tech pack is handed over to the sampling department and various
samples of the product are developed in order to get the orders confirmed from the
buyer.
When the product is in the sampling stage, the buyer might suggest few alternations or
changes as per the appearance and fit of the garment and the requirement of the style
which are incorporated in the further samples and finally a green tag sample is made
and approved by the buyer which is the actual representation of the product and handed
over to the production floor as a guide for the operators to be followed while the bulk
production is going on.
In these stage, the company checked the feasibility of the garment whether it is
affordable or not and the company have the machineries to do the operations to make
that particular style of garment.
Though sampling is a costly procedure but it identifies the various problems which might
be faced during the bulk production if sampling is not done.
This department makes the samples of DENIM (Jeans) and KNITS (T-shirts & Lingerie).
But the company only does bulk production of Denim. After getting knits approval from
buyer, the bulk productions of knits are done in other units.
Layout of sampling and pattern making department shown in figure6.2

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Figure 6.2.Layout of Sampling Department
TYPES OF SAMPLES
DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE
PROTO SAMPLE
FIT SAMPLE
WASH SAMPLE
SALESMAN SAMPLE (SMS)
SEALER /PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE
SIZESET SAMPLE
TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE
PILOT RUN SAMPLE
GARMENT PACKAGE TEST (GPT)
SHIPMENT SAMPLE

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 DEVELOPMENT SAMPLE -
Sample before Proto Sample.
Measurements are checked in this sample.
 PROTO SAMPLE –
The first sample made after order confirmation is Proto sample. This sample is
made of the closest matching fabric and trims and is for the purpose of identifying the
overall look of the style and to obtain a clear understanding of the style. The garment is
produced in the base size (32, 30, 34) as asked by the merchandiser. 2-3 pieces are
made for proto sample one for
SMS (color wise) and other for Presentation sample.
 FIT SAMPLE –
Comments from the merchandiser are received regarding the shape, size and
fullness. Fit sample is based on the measurement list. Only base size given by the
buyer is made and fit is checked on mannequins. This sample is also done on the
substitute fabric as proto sample.
The main factors that are considered are:
A. Perfect style.
B. Quality.
C. Measurement.
Different buyers have different fits, based on which samples are requested in each fit.

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 WASH SAMPLE –
After wash a sample is send to the buyer then approval or comment procedure is
taken by them. Then according to comments of buyer changes are done.
 SALES MAN SAMPLE –
These samples are made for the purpose of testing customer reaction to the various
styles in various colors. In many cases these samples are placed indifferent retail stores
and based on the average reaction, the buyer places orders for bulk production. At the
factory the salesman samples are referred to as mini bulk.
 SEALER SAMPLE OR PRE PRODUCTION SAMPLE –
Sealer sample is sent back by the buyer after the approval of size set sample. Seal
is attached on this sample and it is maintained in the production department, finishing
department and QA for the requirements and the quality parameters. Once the sealer
sample is received industry is not allowed to make any changes in the garment and this
sample should only be followed as the standard for production.
 SIZE SET SAMPLE –
In this stage of sampling, actual fabric is used to stitch the garment. If the fit sample
is approved, buyer size set is produced in all colors and all sizes.
 Original trims and accessories are used.
 Four sets each of size are made.
 If not approved then again size set is made.

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 TOP OF PRODUCTION SAMPLE –
The buyer Q.A. picks up one size or all set of sizes from the first bulk production. It
is considered to be the perfect sample with respect to all sizes and all colors. In the
base size the sample produced should be double.
One set to the buyer.
One set as a counter with the merchant.
IF NOT APPROVED, then again top sample is produced.
IF APPROVED, then bulk production of the garment starts.
 PILOT RUN SAMPLE-
25 pieces are cut in each color and each size. 5-5 pieces on each size and each
color are offered to the buyer’s QI’s.
 SHIPMENT SAMPLE-
Before the shipment buyer Q.A. picks up the carton randomly and checks for the
quality.
Shipment can only happen after of the approval over shipment sample.
Role of Q.A in sampling department:
Tech packs review.
Pattern check against tech pack (construction, no. Of parts, seam allowance,
grain line.)
Check print & embroidery, placement of color (according to tech pack).
Check trims against tech pack. (Thread, label, trim fabric).
He tells the stitching guidance to the supervisor against the tech pack.

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Review final spec. sheet.
The Details Attached to the Garment Sample
After the confirmation of order, each sample sent to the buyer has the following details
attached to it, with the help of a tag. It contains the details pertaining to both, what the
buyer has demanded and what supplement fabric/trim etc they have used (if
applicable).
Ref no.
Color
Fabric
Composition
Description
Quantity
Style no/ Size
Store
In the sampling department, there are many sub divisions i.e.
CAD Section which consists of Pattern making and grading, Marker making and
printing the pattern and cutting of that pattern.
CUTTING Section where patterns are traced on the fabric and cut accordingly by
cutters.
SEWING Section where the cut parts of the fabric are stitched and become a full
garment
TRIMMING Section where the garments are trimmed after wash and trims are
attached to it.
INSPECTION Area where the quality checkers are checked the garments. The
checking is done before wash and after wash also.

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CAD SECTION
In this section, the pattern masters are asked to make pattern as per the buyer
requirements. From pattern making to printing, the company uses the CAD software.
There are two types of buyers –
One who give the pattern block and tech pack which consists of all the detailed
information about the garment (style, measurements, fabric details, trim details,
shrinkage % etc), this type of pattern is called buyer block. Only reputed buyers like
Levis send the buyer blocks to the company and for this type of block they pattern
master need not to change the pattern and they only do grading and make marker of
the patterns and get the print out.
Other type of buyers who give only the measurements and tech pack where they
only mentioned about the fabric and trims details as well as the style. These patterns
are called block pattern. For this type of patterns, the pattern masters have to make
the patterns by CAD software with the measurements the buyer given. And for these
type of buyer, the department do shrinkage test and give the details to the pattern
masters. According to that shrinkage % the masters changes the patterns.
Sometimes, some buyers gives wrong measurements, for that the company gives
some suggestions to that buyers and after discussion; the buyers accepted the
proposed tech pack or process given by the company.
PROCEDURE:
First, the pattern masters get the pattern indent issued by the merchant where all
the specifications given about the patterns. Along with patterns, the masters get the
tech pack where all the measurements are given.
Then according to the specification, they make the pattern (including notch mark,
darts etc) and add shrinkage as per the requirements on the CAD software.
They do the grading of the patterns then.

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After that they send the patterns to the marker making departments. The marker
makers make the marker by placing the patterns in such a way so that the marker
has the optimum utilization of patterns.
After that, the marker is sent for printing. Here in this section, the marker makers
gives the seam allowances and other details like GSM etc to the patterns and after
that it is printed by the plotter.
After that, they verify the patterns and send the patterns along with the ready
sample to the buyer. If the buyer changes some part or want some alteration, the
masters get the sample request again by the merchant and according to the
specification they changes the patterns.
The CAD Software used for making patterns and markers are:
A. GERBER TECHNOLOGY (ACCUMARK Pattern Design Software) – mother
software using it since 12 years. It is windows based software; satisfy their most
demanding design and production requirements. AccuMark provides seamless
integration with Gerber’s automated spreading, cutting and PLM systems for more
effective work order management – helping customer to improve efficiency and
optimize results.
B. LECTRA CAD SOFTWARE more complicated than Gerber and it is dos based
software. At the crossroads of design and production, patterns made by Lectra
drives brand consistency in terms of fit and look.
C. TUKA TECH provides 2D as well as 3D pattern making and design technology.
TUKA cad has multi-tasking & Multi-user operation ability, built-in e-mail &
Automatic data maintenance. Also, it features Digitizing, First Pattern Design,
Pattern Alterations, Auto patterns, Grading, Style Definitions & Various other
features. The company recently use the trial version of TUKA 3D, from 2 months.
Now they are thinking to implement it. The 3D software has the automatic dummy
facility which helps in see the fit and fall of the pattern by inserting the pattern to the
dummy.

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GRADING: After pattern making, the grading is done to the patterns. Grading is the
process of creating a range of sizes for a single style. Grading a pattern is a way of
sizing a pattern up (or down) while maintaining the proportions of the original pattern.
MARKER MAKING: A marker is a diagram of a precise arrangement of pattern pieces
for sizes of a specific style that are to be cut from in one spread. Marker making is the
process of determining a most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a style, fabric and
distribution of sizes. Marker making is done by CAD systems which give accuracy,
increase control over variables and reduces time required in making markers. The
efficiency of marker making in the CAD section is 85% - 87%. Size set marker consists
of different size of same style of garment. For different type of appearance of fabric,
they use different markers like solid marker (one way, two way directions), stripes,
checks, colors.
Each marker contains certain annotation like:-
Piece name
Size
Bundle Number
Buyer
Work Order Number
Cut Number
PLOTTING: The plotter is a computer printer for printing vector graphics. Plotters were
used in applications such as computer-aided design. A plotter gives a hard copy of the
output. It draws pictures on paper using a pen. After getting the marker request from the
maker making section, they give the allowances and put the details about the fabric like
GSM, style no. etc on the pattern block and print it by the plotter. In this section, there
are two types of plotter. One is used only for print the markers. And the other one is the

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automatic cutter plotters which prints the marker cut the patterns simultaneously which
are used in cutting section of sampling department. The patterns cut manually also.
Advantages of CAD-
Wastage reduction
Minimum time consumption
Increased accuracy
Reduction in labor cost
PROBLEMS FACED DURING USING OF THE SOFTWARE:
They faced some problems when a complicated style has come. For that the company
makes a knock off of the garment or style and check the feasibility. And if they faced
software problems they directly mailed to the software manufacturing company and that
company upgrades the software and solves the problems.Manpower: 2 CAD
managers, 11 pattern masters, 1 data operator, 1 coordinator, 3 trimmers.
Figure 6.3.Cutting Section of Sampling Dept.

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After printing the marker and cutting those patterns shown in figure6.3, the ready
patterns are come to the cutting section of sampling department. Here, the cutters
check the measurements of the patterns and match it with the sample indent. The
fabrics in small amount are then issued by the storage as per the requirement of sample
indent given by the merchant. After that the fabrics are kept for 4 hours approximate for
fabric relaxation to maintain the dimensional stability of produced garments. After that
the cutter spread the fabric manually for cutting and placed the pattern on it. The length
of the lay will be depending on the no. of patterns and the length of the patterns of a
single size of a particular style. The no of lay is depending upon the requirements of
buyers. It can be vary from 1 to 20 no. of lays. 20 lays are basically made for the
salesman’s sampling. After spreading manually, they traced the pattern on that fabric
and cut accordingly by using straight knife and round knife. During the cutting, they also
cut the notch marks. After that the parts will go for sewing.
The output per day in cutting section is 40 – 50 garment parts / day.
In the cutting section, DENIM and KNITS (t-shirts) are cut and go for sewing.
Manpower: 3 Cutters, 4 pattern selector & fabric selector.

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SEWING SECTION IN SAMPLING
Figure 6.4.Sewing Section Of Sampling
When the fabric is cut, the next process is sewing process shown in figure6.4. For
sewing the modular system is using here. One worker is producing the full garment i.e.
He/she is attaching all parts of the garment and only for specialized technique there are
other workers to do that particular operation. One worker is producing average 2 – 3
garments per day. Total output of sewing section is 70 – 100 garments / day (approx).
The numbers of sewing machine are: 40 [34 sewing machines + 6 specialized
machines]

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Loading plan:
This is a plan given to the sewing dept. for the stitching purpose. According to the
loading plan, the supervisor assigns the jobs to the workers and stitching is done.
STITCHING STEPS FOR PRODUCING DEMIN JEANS
STEPS MACHINES
Divide cut parts. Manually
Front fly stitching, front rise 3 thread overlock
Back yoke stitching, back rise Feeder form DNLS
Back pockets hem DNLS overlock
Attaching the back pockets on the back
panel
SNLS
Pocket bag stitching ( Scoop pockets) DNLS overlock
Attaching facing to the bags 3 thread flat lock
Front coin pocket attachment DNLS overlock
Attaching back panel DNLS
Front rise (J – stitch) on the fly and one
more stitch on it
SNLS
Double fly attachment (right side front
placement)
Button / Zipper placement on the fly Manually
Front rise ( to get clean finish) DNLS overlock (distance between two
needles is 1/8 ”)
Inseam attachment FOA (DNLS) / 5 thread Overlock / DNLS
(distance between two needles is 1/8 ”)
Side seam attachment 3 thread overlock for open finish or 5

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thread overlock for close finish
Side lock stitch DNLS (distance between two needles is
3/16”, 1/8 ”, ¼” according to the style )
Side seam busted chain stitch Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10, width =
½” , 3/8”
Bottom hem SNLS or Chain stitch machine S.P.I = 10
– 8
Width= 3/8”, 5/8”, ½”, 7/8”, 1”, 2”
according to the style
Waistband attaching [waist band width =
1” i.e. the width of the waistband panel is
2”]
Manually / specialized machine
(automatic)
Waist band loop DNLS flat lock (distance between two
needles is 1/4 ”) or DNLS (distance
between two needles is 1/8 ” – 3/8”)
Buttonhole (kasa or keyhole), bar tack Specialized machines
Table 6.1.Stitching Steps for Denim jeans
After all the operation, the denims are then trimmed and sent to washing department for
washing of garment to get desired shade and style specified by the buyers. After wash
the garments are directly come to the sampling department for further process.
Manpower: 30 workers, 1 supervisor, 1 in-charge.
FINISHING SECTION IN SAMPLING
After washing, the samples are coming to finishing section that is also called as
trimming sections. Here the threads are trimmed from the garment. And the rivets,
shanks, buttons, tags etc. are attached with the garments. After that, the garments are
sent to the inspection area for the quality checking.
Man power: 4 workers, 1 in-charge

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INSPECTION AREA IN SAMPLING
After stitching, the garments are come to the inspection area for stitching quality
checking of the garments. The quality checkers inspects the garment and matches it
with the sample indent. If there is any problem in stitching or cutting or measurements,
they send the garment for remaking. If the sample is ok it is sent for washing.
After washing, the samples are coming to sampling department for trimming and after
that it is sent to inspection area for checking. The checkers check the small detailing
about the garment like shade %, measurements etc. 100% checking of the samples are
done here.
Manpower: 6 quality checkers
The quality parameters they checked here:
 Grain line
 Sample indent information
 Shade
 Shrinkage %
 Measurements
 Tech pack
 The placement of the panels, Pockets, zippers, buttons, rivets, tags etc.

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CHAPTER 7. CUTTING DEPARTMENT
Figure 7.1.Cutting Department
Cutting department shown in figure 7.1 is the first step to production. After getting the
bulk order from the buyers, the fabrics are sourced and kept into the storage. The
cutting department then gets the cutting request from the merchant and they send fabric
request to the storage department and after that the storage department issues the
fabric. The objective of the cutting department is to spread the fabric lays, cut the
garment panels according to the marker provided and sort, number and bundle the
panels. The major cost of the garment is the fabric, accounting for almost 60% of the
total cost so it becomes very essential that actual usage of fabric is slightly controlled by
scientific method and procedures. Layout of the Cutting Department is shown in
figure7.2

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In this department, desired layers are cut using straight knife machines, band knife
machines and automatic cutting machines. The number of patterns cut depends upon
the length of the fabric lay and making patterns of the layers. Once the cutting
operations are finished, immediately the cut parts go to next operations.
Objective:
Cutting according to the master patterns with 100% accuracy.
Ensuring 100% quality in cutting.
100% issue of all the parts to sewing section.
The S.O.P is shown in figure7.3 and the activity flow is shown in figure7.4
followed in the cutting department.
LAYOUT
Figure 7.2.Layout Of Cutting department

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Standard Operation Procedure
yes
Is correction required?
Randomly check the fabric while
Spreading for:
Marker edge parallel to selvedge.
Alignment of fabric
Tension
CountMake alternate patterns
A

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Figure 7.3.The Process Flow In Cutting Dept.
Feed to sewing floor as
required
A

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ACTIVITY FLOW:
Figure 7.4. Activity Flowchart of the Cutting Dept.
 MARKER MAKING:
CAD software is used for marker making as well as pattern making. The software used
here is Lectra, Astor, Gerber. Using CAD, grading is also done if required. The patterns
are not created here. The sampling department sends the patterns to the cutting
department, and with those patterns, the pattern masters in CAD section create the
marker. The marker is then made combining patterns of different sizes. Efficiency of the
marker changes with the shape of the patterns. After marker making, the plotter give the
print out of that marker which is going to use for cutting that particular style. The
average efficiency is 85%.
Marker
Making
Fabric
relaxation
Spreading
Labelling Cutting
Numbering
Cut Panel
auditing
Knee level
marking
Embroidery
Fusing
Sorting
Bundeling

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SOFTWARE - GGT- GERBER, LECTRA, ASTOR
VERSON- 8.5, 8.2
ROLES OF PATTERN MAKER-
PATTERN DESIGN
PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
MARKER PLANING
PATTERN DESIGN
The department receives a pattern request form sampling department every time a
new pattern is to be made.
Every time there is a change or amendment in the pattern, the pattern version
alphabet is changed. For example from A to B.
There is a team that works exclusively on making templates for production.
DIGITIZING
Digitizing is done on an electronic digitizing board by pasting pattern pcs on it.
The digitized patterns are amended, graded and used for making costing markers
also bulk production markers.
This is the pattern that is used for making templates also.
Amendments are then made on this digitized pattern and directly printed; this
reduces work of manual pattern maker as well as improved department efficiency.
There is an input menu on the board, which is used to digitize pattern pieces.

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PRODUCT DEVELOPMENT
Development of product is made according to requirement of buyer.
Example- Development of - Patches on pocket position, Yoke high, Pocket high,
Side Seam/stitch label.
MARKER PLANING
 Marker planning is done to reduce wastage of the fabric as well as use the
available fabric most efficiently.
 Auto marker is used on software REDTREE EAZY DESIGN.
There are 4 reasons by which marker planning may be increase or decrease:-
1. Comment of buyer.
2. Grain line.
3. Seam allowance
4. One way or two way direction map.
5. Parts jumbling
Manpower: 3
Fabric relaxation:
Figure 7.5.Fabric Relaxation

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After issuing the fabric from storage, the rolls are kept in the cutting department after
relaxation as shown in figure7.5. It is done for the following reasons:
- To produce quality product
- To get the dimension stability of the garment.
- To avoid the measurement changes after washing
Relaxation for the stretch material is for 24hrs.
Relaxation of the normal materials is for 10-12 hrs. Manpower: 10
SPREADING:
Figure 7.6.Spreading
Spreading shown in figure7.6 is the process of superimposing lengths of fabric on a
spreading table, cutting table or specially designed surface in preparation for the cutting
department. A spread or layup is the total amount of fabric required by a single marker.
A spread may consist of Single ply or multiple plies the weight of the ply is limited by
fabric characteristics, size of the order to be cut, cutting method and vertical capacity of
the spreader. End cutters are used for spreading. After fabric relaxation for 24 hours,
the fabric is then spread on the table according to the nap direction of the fabric. For
denim spreading direction is FOW. The marker is spread over the lay and cutting is
done. The laying is done shade wise.

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Factors affecting spreading process:
Set up i.e. loading and threading fabric through the spreader.
Laying out of fabric: It involves laying out of fabric in desired no. of layers. i.e.
face up/down/face to face. Etc
First of all a thin brown paper sheet is spread on the cutting table using an
adhesive tape to prevent the bottom plies from shifting during cutting. Then the actual
spreading process begins with the laying of first fabric layer on this brown sheet and
subsequently the other plies are laid.
The spreading of this lay is done either manually or automatically by the spreading
Machine. While manual spreading is time consuming, the use of traveling machine
gives faster and more accurate results. The length of the lay depends upon the
dimension of the fabric & length of the marker as specified by the CAD. Whereas lay
height depends on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine
on the thickness of the fabric and the capacity of the cutting machine.
Man Power: 8
DEFECTS:
o Slack tension: lesser problem contains excess fabric in each ply. Cutting a slack
spread may create over sized pieces. It causes in accuracies in assembling and
waste fabric.
o Ply alignment: accuracy with which fabric edges, both length and width are
aligned during spreading.
o Static electricity: results from friction among materials and spreading
equipment. Fabrics from manufactured fibers may have static problems.

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Problems occurrence
 Absentees or man power issues.
 Less spreading tables due to which 10-20 min is wasted. And within this time 10-15
layers can be spread.
 Machine repairs, wastage of 2-3 days.
 Delay in Relaxation due to roll delay.
Improvements
 Requirement of Extra spreading tables, by which delay in sequence operations can
be avoided
 Requirement of On-Spot Machine repairs.
 In time fabric roll has to be supplied, which helps in good relaxation & garment
quality.
 LABELLING:
The lay which is to be cut is labeled by stickers according to the pattern placement. It is
done bt the auto labeling machine. This makes the auto cutter to cut easily.
 CUTTING :
The lay is cut with the help of electrically powered straight knife cutting machines or
CAM m/c. The machine is moved through the lay shown in figure7.7 following the
pattern lines of the marker and the reciprocating blade cut the pieces of the fabric
progressively. Notches are also added. For smaller components like collars, ribs etc.
that need high accuracy, band knife-cutting machine are used. It is a non-portable
cutting device, which cuts the fabric as it is passed across the blade. The garments are
kept aside as and when they are cut.

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STEPS:
o Laying marker, fixing lays with the help of gum tape
o Cutting
o Checking each panel or the bundle of each part
o Removing any one piece, checking size and then passing
o Bundling all parts of each sizes together
o Put serial number on each panel with the help of silver mark ink
o Group bundle of 20 pieces by using the rubber bands
o Maintain record of each bundle
o Load the bundles for sewing
Manpower: Cutting (7 people)
Auto cutter (2 people)
Re cutting (2 people)
Cutting loaders (2 people)
Figure 7.7.MorganTecnica, Labeling & cutting m/c

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 CUT PART AUDITING :
The ticketed panels are now sent to the checking area for inspection of every
individual piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line,
inappropriate size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cut, shade
variations etc. that are not within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from
the cut lay. A cutting component checking report is filled for the total quality cut,
checked and approved. The rejected pieces are sent back and an equal number of
fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed with the same number
as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration sticker and
passed on. This is spotted out during garment finishing or washing.
There are some common cutting defects. They are:
Miss notch
Selvedge
Uneven cut
Miss cut
Over notch
Shape off
Rugged cut
Man power: Panel checking (5 people)
Panel marker (4 people)
NUMBERING:
In this dept, all the cut parts are given the style number in series, to avoid the
mismatch during sewing and helps in increasing the production.
Man Power: 8 people

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 FUSING :
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are
separated from the bundle. The fusing material is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The components along with the cut fusing material are kept
between two paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine. By
means of the temperature and the pressure fusing takes place at a particular speed
and for a particular time. Fabric is used to the fusing layer at the temperature of 700
C.
fusing machine has two rollers. First roller is heated 710
C and back roller at 700
C. the
fabric is passed through the machine and fabric get fused. The pack comes out at the
other end on the conveyors and the pieces are removed and re bundled.
Man power: Fusing (8 people)
Piping (2 people)
 EMBROIDERY:
Figure 7.8. Embroidery Section

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This operation shown in figure7.8 is optional, only for the certain style and if the buyer
asks for it. The capacity of this machine is 18 pieces at once. For embroidery, they take
a panel of the style where the embroidery needed, basically in back pockets. Then they
attach the panel to the frame. Frame size may vary from 9 to 45 sizes (9, 15, 18, 21, 45
sizes) as per the buyer’s requirements.
The cutting department is responsible for sending the cut components of a style for
Embroidery as stated in the production process. Blocks of panels are sent for
embroidery, which are re-cut after receiving back. To avoid mixing of the patterns the
panels of the same size are stitched together temporarily before dispatch for the
embroidery.
Man Power: 2 people
 SORTING & BUNDLING:
As shown in figure 7.9 the pieces cut out from the lay are now sorted out size
wise. All the components of one garment size are bought together. It is very
important to take care that pieces cut from two different bolts (bundles) of fabric
are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there are bolt-to-bolt variations in
the color shade. The sorted pieces are now ticketed. Ticketing is the process of
marking the cut components for shade matching precision, and sequence
identification. The worker secures one end of the stack and puts on the ticket
using ticket gun. The ticket contains the size, bundle number and piece number
and serves as important means to track the parts of the garment in the assembly
line from start to end.
Man Power: sorting (8 people)
Helpers (8 people)
Bundle movers (2 people)

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Figure 7.9.Numbering, Bundling & Audit sections
POWER CONSUMPTION:
On the floor: 20 fans, 120 lights
CAD section: 2 lights, 1 air condition, 4 computers, 1 plotter, 1 photocopy machine
Embroidery: 22 lights, 4 fans, 1 computer
FINDINGS:
As the automatic spreading machine is not in use, it creates problems for auto
cutting machine as the markers don’t spread lays equally along the selvedge and
the production is also less.
There should be another operator who knows to operate the auto spreading
machine.
Mobile rack is there, but not in use.
Cut parts are not stored according to the shade/shrinkage/width wise.
Shade wise ratio cutting is not done.

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CHAPTER 8.)SEWING DEPARTMENT
Figure 8.1.Sewing Department
OBJECTIVE: To produce the garment by sewing together the various pattern pieces of
that style in least possible time and least possible defects.
The dominant process in garment industry is sewing shown in figure8.1, still the best
way of achieving strength and flexibility in the seam itself as well as flexibility of
manufacturing method. Much of the application of technology to clothing manufacture is
concerned with the achievement of satisfactorily sewn seams.
It is basically divided into ten lines, one of which is dedicated to the training purpose and
others are dedicated for the production.
In between there are inspection tables , one after back section another one after front
section , next after waistband is stitched and last is the end of line checking. All of them

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are doing 100 % inspection as the operators are new and they are not consistent in
quality and thus increasing labor cost as well as throughput time of the garment.
Each line has a supervisor monitoring the production and trying to balance the line
himself, these are also not trained properly and thus are not confident on implementing
new suggestion in Layout or man power planning.
No floaters are kept for the handling of absenteeism. If absenteeism is there then
people from other lines are taken or people from the training line are taken.
The sewing process at the Mysore road plant is fully following the Progressive Bundle
System.
Description about line:
Denim floor consists of 14 sewing lines shown in figure 8.2 with 40-50 workstations
(sewing machines) in each line and in each line there are three check-points. Most
machines are from VI.BE.MAC, Italy and they have automated operations like Back
pocket creasing, hemming and attaching, Auto belt loop attach, Waist band attach
and bottom hemming.
The machines are arranged in straight line; hence progressive bundle system is
working.
There are two line are setup parallel to form a line.
There are two inline check-points (one check-point is put when the front is
complete and the other is put when the back is complete) and one end-line, when
the front and back are joined and the garment is complete.

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Figure 8.2.Sewing Lines

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Figure 8.3.Layout Of Sewing Lines
Each line of the sewing shown in figure 8.3 has got various operational breakdowns
which consist of workstations, checking tables, various sewing machines and auditing
tables. Figure8.4 gives the description about the S.O.P of the sewing department.

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CAPACITY DETAILS OF SEWING:
S.NO ITEM DETAILS
1 NO.OF.SEWING LINE 13
2 TYPE OF PRODUCTION
SYSTEM
STRAIGHT LINE / PROGRESSIVE
BUNDLE SYSTEM
3 NO.OF.MACHINES PER
LINE
40-48
4 NO.ON.OPERATORS/LINE 40-45
5 TOTAL
.NO.OF.OPERATORS
625
6 AVERAGE PRODUCTION
/DAY
8300
7 EFFICIENCY OF THE
FACTORY
40-45%
8 NO.OF.SUPERVISORS 14
9 NO.OF.PRODUCTION
MANAGER
2
Table No.8.1 Capacity Details of wet process

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Sewing Standard Operation Procedure
A

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Figure 8.4 Process flow of sewing
A

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