The document provides a summary of prehistoric costume beginning in Northeast Africa millions of years ago. It discusses the earliest evidence of clothing being found in Russia dating back 26,000 years ago. Prehistoric clothing served elemental functions of protection from the environment, and had magical/religious meanings by identifying the wearer with animals and gods. Western civilization is traced back to beginning 5000-6000 years ago in Mesopotamia. The document then focuses on costume in ancient Anatolia, describing traditional garments like chitons and himations worn by cultures in Ionia and Lydia.

1. COSTUME IN HISTORY 1 : PREHISTORIC COSTUME – selective account-
COSTUME IN ANATOLIA
İrem Arıkan
Resources:
What People Wore When, a complete illustrated history of costume from Ancient Times to
the Nineteenth Century for Every Level of Society
cons.ed: Melissa Leventon, 2008, St. Martin’s Griffin, NY
The History of Costume, 2nd ed.,
B.Payne, G.Winakor, J. Farrell-Beck,1992, Harper CollinsPublishers
20,000 Years of Fashion; F.Boucher, Expanded Ed. 1987, Harry N. Abrams, NY
Tarih Boyunca Anadolu’da Giyim Kuşam, S.Türkoğlu, 2002, İstanbul

2. HISTORY OF COSTUME and
CLOTHING 1:
• FIRST HUMAN BEINGS: North Eastern Africa
millions of years ago,
• First sights of western civilization 5000-6000
years ago in Mesopotamia
• The Earliest evidence of clothing:RUSSIA North
of Moscow-Sunghir – 26 000 years ago.
Skeletons covered with beads of mammoth ivory
lying in a pattern means they must have been
-most probably- sewn to the clothing, which were
decomposed like the skin whereas the beads
remained in the soil.

4. Elemental functions of clothing for
pre-historic people and ancient
civilizations
• Protection from outer
environment
• Magical-Religious –ornaments,clothing identified
the wearer with animals, gods, heroes.
• Attraction – Belonging- the need to
identify oneself as unique individual and also being a member of one or
more specific groups, society

6. • HYPOTHESIS of ANTROPOLOGISTS:
• Nude figures had greater “magic” than clothed ones, grotesque
distortions in faces and bodies were somehow related to beliefs
about the “supernatural”.

10. • Development of European Costume can be divided into
three phases(Boucher):
1- Earliest Antiquity to 14th century
• in most civilizations costume underwent little change-
yet there is diversity
• Long, loose,draped + remains of magical and religious
functions
2-14th century to the second half of 19th century, industrial
expansion. 14 th century is the period where costume
gained national and personla characteristics. Political +
commercial organizations have effects on costume. Each
nation formed her own style. “Civilian” costume comes from
this period.
3-From 1850 till today: More international, less personal.
Influence of industrial mass production + European
expansionism. Haute Couture wants the preservation of
‘personal’ costume

12. western civilization started 5000-
6000 years ago in Mesopotamia

13. A dress may identify:
• Authority-occupation()warrior’s costume suggest that he is
superhuman-physical superiority
• Social position- power or material
prosperitymilitary uniform denotes rank
• Religious significance-: an actual or symbolic
identification with (a) god
• Family-group-clan
• A desire to please- according to Boucher, only latterly that
primitive man’s costume expressed a desire to please.

14. • Not all pre-historic peoples developed clothing
adopted to their environment-climate: ex:
natives of the himalaya mountains went
barefood on the snow + inhabitants of Tierra
del Fuego at southernmost tip of South
America- close to Antartica- go without clothing!
• In historic times protection from cold and
comfort in hot weather has often been
secondary to other functions of clothing.

18. Kalkolitik çağ-mesolithic
Stone and metal are
used and refined.

19. Neolithic-ilk tunç
çağı:

24. 2000 b.c- i.ö 2000:

44. Sumerian-
Kaunoke=
shawl

50. FRIGYA
i.ö 750-300

51. • Yozgat vilayetinden Kürt Kadın, 1873, “1873 Yılında Halk
Giysileri”

53. Ionia- Efes Artemisi

55. Chiton(khiton) ve Hemation

56. • İonya=Ionia=Ancient Greek// Hellens are
called as Ions by Eastern civilizations.
• An individual artistic style was born in Ionia.
• Classic Greek art is originated here.
• Efes is an important city of Ionia, so as Efes
Artemis.
• Artemis Cult is originated from Goddess
Kybele.
• Artemis monastery statues were dressed
everyday by the priestesses.

57. • Chiton and Himation are tunics of some
type. Chiton is widely known as Ion chiton.
• Chiton=Kutanum(Mesopotamian
Nations)=
• Kitoneh(Aramaic)(worn as true ionic chiton
after 500 b.c)
• Before chiton peplos- a simple rectangle
fabric, shorter- was worn.

59. • Chitons are worn on skin, thin layer of fabric,
usually from flax.
• Hemations are worn on chitons as
cloak(manto gibi, şal gibi, ör: kaunoke).

60. • Ionia as a fashion center around 500 B.C.
• Himations are attached on right or left shoulder by
fibulas.Or on both. Pleats and the hanging style
can indicate style difference.(Prof. Ramazan
Özgan)
• Chitons are sewn or attached(bağcık gibi) from
shoulder to elbow.
• Peplos is a Dorian costume.No sleeves. Attached
by fibulas on both sides. On the sides,
ornamentation…Back side of peplos could be
used as veil when necessary.
• Peplos are wool. Not very loose and nicely

63. Çanakkale-assos figürinleri: kapüşonlu
hemation ve göğsü de pilili khitonları

64. Lydia’lılar: