The 1930s fashion design was epitomized by Hollywood glamour as seen in iconic actresses like Greta Garbo and their elegant, form-fitting styles. However, the Great Depression also brought poverty. The American designer Adrian designed over 250 film costumes and created flamboyant gowns and tailored suits that defined the opulent Golden Age of Hollywood. He is most famous for the ruby slippers in The Wizard of Oz. Travis Banton also defined the era with his bold designs for Marlene Dietrich. Elsa Schiaparelli collaborated with Salvador Dali on surrealist pieces that pushed boundaries. Overall, 1930s fashion reflected both luxury escapism and economic hardship.

1. A R T A N D
F A S H I O N D E S I G N
A S E L E C T I V E A C C O U N T O F T H E
F A S H I O N D E S I G N I N 1 9 3 0 S
1 4 . 0 3 . 2 0 1 8

2. • 1930s can be epitomized by Hollywood glamour, and the beauty
ideal of lady like femininty; movie icons as beauty ideals.
• On the wrong side of glamour was great depression poverty.

3. • Golden Age of Hollywood : This era contains some of the best
actresses of all time, many of whom are Academy Award winners,
as well as classic film stars.
• Greta Garbo - Bette Davis - Joan Crawford - Marlene Dietrich -
Katherine Hepburn - Jean Harlow - Carole Lombard

4. The 1930’s are characterized by cinematic representations and lots of movie icons and
costume designers like Edith Head; Gilbert Adrian; Howard Greer; Travis Banton… The
women on screen often led glamorous lives with a wardrobe to match. Actresses began
the film dressed as an ordinary woman and ended the film in satin dressing gowns and
fur coats.

5. BODY IDEAL
• Slinky(fitting the body nicely) and sleek (shiny, smooth, lustrous)
• natural waistline
• sloop(leaning forward) shoulders
• low breasts

6. • The Eugénie hat Adrian created for Greta Garbo in
Romance, a period movie, was copied by more than one
manufacturer and sold to thousands of Garbo fans. Each hat
was a small advertisement for the movie, and the studio
encouraged its sale.

7. • Lady like femininity taking a far distance
from the boyish 20s. Good manners, gentle
behaivour and modest but sophisticated
feminine ideal.
• 1930s can be defined with the term
PROPRIETY (görgü, edep = good manners)
• HAT + GOOD
MANNERS +
FEMININE FITTED
WAIST + FUR +
GLOVES + LOW
HEMLINES +
DAINTY SHOES
• COLOR PALETTE is muted, no bold colors
and patterns like 20s, dusty colors

8. • “Bataklı Dam’ın Kızı Aysel „ 1935- Feriha
Tevfik(Gülsüm rolünde)

9. • https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=oo0I7LnQcCI
• SEYYAN HANIM

10. • 1930larda Türkiye: 1930s Turkey // Nazmi Ziya
Güran Cumhuriyet dönemi Türk Resmi

11. • Türkiye - Turkey in 1930s Atatürk and his adopted daughter Sabiha Gökçen

12. • 1929 ocak Atatürk ‚ün manevi kızı Nebile İrdelp’in düğünü -
Adopted daughter of Atatürk; Nebile Hanım’s wedding

13. • Four of Atatürk’s adopted children (LtoR):Rukiye Erkin, Sabiha
Gökçen, Afet İnan, Zehra Aylin

14. • 1930s afternoon
dresses

20. • 1930s androgyneous looks - trouser fans

21. • Turkey- beach 1930s
• London - street 1930s

22. • showing off metallic sheen of fabric in silk or other shiny material

24. • E. Scha.’s shoulder
pads + wrap dress

25. • Contemporary 1930 looks

28. The American designer whose screen credits used to read "Gowns by
Adrian"epitomized glamour. He designed costumes for over 250 films and contributed to
the spectacular visual opulence of Hollywood's Golden Age with his flamboyant
signature bias-cut gowns, sharp tailored suits with large shoulder pads. He started in the
20s, worked with Greta Garbo, Jean Harlow, Katharine Hepburn and most of all, Joan
Crawford. But he was never nominated for an Academy Award. One of his iconic items
remains the ruby slippers he designed for Dorothy in The Wizard of Oz.

29. • Left:Adrian design
• Right: Travis Banton

30. • Travis Banton designs costumes for the
actress M. Dietrich in the movie Morocco;

31. “Fashion is a language. Some
know it, some learn it, some never
will – like an instinct.” Edith Head //
Edith Head was nominated for 35 Academy Awards
and holds the record for the most wins in the
Costume category
https://www.youtube.com/watch?ti
me_continue=8&v=_Y_9wax_rAo
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v
=gxNHEvmEFQk
(6.26 min - 7. 18 min
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v
=iYkdf3IGs38

32. • POLKA DOTS everywhere: People loved polka
dots in dress. Marlene Dietrich; ads;..

35. • https://www.vogue.com/article/vogue-125-video-fashion-history-sarah-jessica-parker-
1930s
• Elsa Schapiarelli and Salvador Dali had creative partnership which resulted
the shoe hat ; lobster dress; skeleton dress and tears dress among many other works

37. The dream worlds
of the Surrealists
particularly
appealed to Elsa
Schiaparelli:
Lobster theme;
gloves;
surrealist
mood of
fashion
photography in
vogue; tears
dress; hat with
red lipstick
pockets;
eyeglasses

40. • Her Zodiac
collection

41. • Her famous buttons somewhere in between jewellery and
fastener

42. • First application of zipper as a decorative design element, rather
than hiding it in the garment

43. • E. Schiap. started to use “tromp l’oeil„(a french term - means to
fool the eye) painting ideas in fashion design with knits. This idea
has been being used many times in contemporary fashion for
decades.

44. • Moschino + 1970s R. di Camerino; and Stan Herman

46. • W. Schaparielli had designed many surrealism
inspired objects

49. • RESORT CULTURE: Cote’d Azur - French Riviera and Beach wear for
the 5% who remained rich during great depression : THE PYJAMA

52. • AMELIA EARHART : She had an extremely iconic look with leather jacket, pants and
short hair.She is known as a pilot who crossed Atlantic ocean. Unknown fact is that she had
a design line; sportswear by Amelia Earhart.
• She is an icon so many times seen in contemporary fashion

55. • AFRICA as a cultural phenomenon was kind of an obsession for the rich to go to safaris

57. • On the other side of glamour, was the great depression feedsack dresses. Manifacturers started packing
sacks of flour and chicken seeds in calico fabrics. For a portrayal of the hardships see: Literature :
Published in 1939; J. Steinbeck “The Grapes of Wrath„ (Dust bowl migrant farmers’ difficult conditions are
painted in this book. )
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0M9fJMqhlZY (the full movie)

60. • Thank you for your time.