The document discusses key aspects of developing shoe lasts including: 1. Four methods for developing lasts including buying off-the-shelf, copying competitors, modifying competitors, and developing from scratch. 2. Key measurements needed for last design including length, widths, girths, toe spring, and heel height. 3. Principles of last grading including grading systems and standards for infants/children versus juniors/adults. 4. Seven inevitable measurements needed to develop and control fit including bottom length, widths, girths, toe spring and heel height.

1. Part I: Lasts Introduction

2. The art of lasts: combining great fit with appealing cosmetics based on authentic feet structure. Simple Truth to lasts: If the last is bad, the shoe/fit is bad. Development Truth: Lasts are first Commercialization Truth: if the model is wrong, extremes will also be wrong, but amplified. Production Truth: If the lasts are not well made, the faulty shoe rate is much higher than norm

4. 4 ways to develop a last Buy off the shelf—quick, but they are generic with little character. Copy competitor last (borrow from factory or foam inject) Copy competitor and modify. Quickest method to achieve fit & character. Develop from scratch

5. New Last Design Last Bottom Design Last Bottom Length 楦底长度线） Last Center Length （楦底中心线） Tread Line （着地线） Heel Width （后跟宽度） Bottom (Ball) Width （楦底宽度） 2. Last Girth Design Ball Girth （趾围） Waist Girth （腰围） Instep Girth （背围） Back Length ( 兜跟围） Cuboids Girth ( 后跟围） Toe Thickness （楦头头厚） 3. Last Toe Spring and Heel Height Toe Spring （前翘） Heel Height （后翘） 4. Last Stick Length and Back Curve Back Curve 后踵曲线） Crest Line （楦头棱线） Stick Length ( 楦全长 )

6. Traditional /Proper Measurement of Last OM =last bottom length( toe to heel center) ON = heel center line BC = tread line (bottom width), tread area is a width of tread point A +/- 5mm based on joint of bone. EF = heel width OA = OM * 64% OD = OM * 25%

7. Last bottom length line( 楦底长度线 ): T oe to heel center, the center line of the feet/shoes. Heel center line( 分踵线 ) : Central file of last bottom, the center line of walking direction. Across the Tread point ( 着地点 / 前掌重心 ) , draw a line to plumb Heel center line( 分踵线 ) ， it is called the Tread Line( 着地线 ) and Bottom Width( 楦底宽度 ) . Across the point D, draw a line to plumb Heel center line( 分踵线 ) ， it is called the Heel Width Line( 后跟宽度线 ) . Last Bottom

8. Measurement of Ball , Waist and Instep Girth The ball girth area is normally marked by three raised points (lateral, center, medial). Wrap the measuring tape around the last following these t h ree points. The tape must lay completely flat to the Last, positioned so the tape is on the toe side of the nipple, with increments of the tape pointing to the heel of the last then in a straight line and wrap back on to itself These three measuring points are defined by common rules of last design. Note: Measuring tape must be in front of the three raised point. Waist measurement point is from center of ball girth point mover up 1 inch (25.4 MM). Instep measurement point is from the center of Waist girth point mover up 1 inch (25.4 mm). Instep Girth ( 背围 ) Waist Girth ( 腰围 ) NIPPLE Ball Girth ( 趾围 ) 50.8mm 25.4mm

10. Back Length From the instep point , w rap the measuring tape around the last heel, the data is called Back Length （兜跟围 ). Back Length （兜跟围 ) determines the shoes opening, normally the slip-on, boot and injection shell bottom will restrict back length in the length of 360-378mm in M’s # 9 for easy sliding foot in . Back Length

11. To measure the widest width between the lateral and medial side of last heel top points, the data is called Cuboids Girth( 后跟围 ) 。 Cuboids Girth( 后跟围 ) is 8-10mm wider than Heel Width 。 Cuboids Girth

12. Last and Foot Last heel curve should be matching as foot heel for fitting closely and avoiding slipping . Last should be 2-10mm longer than foot at toe part to leave more space for foot toes move freely depending on different category and construction of shoes. The last toe thickness in Men’s size 9 should be 27mm = 22mm(US9# men’s toes thickness) + 4mm (sock liner) + 1mm (sock) 2-10mm 22mm 22+4+1mm

13. Toe spring and Heel height Toe spring , Heel height and Tread point are the three key elements to ensure fitting well and comfortable. HEEL HEIGHT GAUGE( 后翘测量尺 ) HEEL HEIGHT MEASUREMENT( 后翘测量处 ) TREAD POINT( 着地点 ) TOE SPRING MEASUREMENT ( 前翘测量处 )

14. 鞋类楦头翘度表 (Toe Spring Specification List) Unit (m/m) P.S: Based on sample size standard (M9) is 19mm for the Cayman project. 14 17 18 17 15 16 18 16 W'S 6# 12 13 16 15 14 14 13 13 Y'S 13# 13 16 18 18 15 14 14 11 B'S 4# 14 18 21 20 17 16 14 17 M'S 8# 包子鞋 凉鞋 工作鞋 登山鞋 运动鞋 便鞋 皮鞋 半拖鞋 Size Moca Sandal Work Hiking Sport Casual Dress Cayman Shoes Type

15. Stick Length Stick Length( 楦全长 ) the length is measured from last toe to heel two top points once put the last on a level 。 Stick Length( 楦全长 ) is longer about 3-5mm than last bottom length.

16. Back Curve Back Curve( 后踵曲线 ) is derived 3 points as below: Achilles Flex point 后跟最高点 Breast point 后跟最凸点 Heel center point 后跟中心点 Breast point 后跟最凸点 = Achilles Flex point 后跟最高点 / 3 + sock liner thickness For example, the data of Men’s size 9 as below drawing. 8mm 66mm 6mm 26mm

17. Widths of Lasts US/UK Men’s: D = Middle B = Narrow EE = Wide US/UK Women’s: B = Middle A = Narrow C = Wide A B C D E EE EEE EEEE W WW One width

18. Part II: Lasts Grading & Model sizes

19. Last grading is based on the X/Y quadrant. Grading on X axis: all length of last. Grading on Y axis: last girth, heel height, toe thickness and toe spring . Grading on both: Back length. Last Grading X Y

20. Last Grading Principles 3 grading systems in the world: UK/US system (X=8.46mm; Girth=6.35mm) France system (X=6.66mm; Girth=5.0mm) Japan system (X=10mm; Girth=7.5mm) Crocs : UK/US system X Y

21. Naturally and biologically , children’s feet are wider and thicker but shorter. 2 grading standards for Infants /children and junior/ adult. Full sizes grading need to follow as each gender’s model size standard. # 1 ) For Infants and Children , C 0 -C12 Genders. last size break 0-1-2-3-4-5-6-7 / 8-9-10-11 -12 model size 4 and 10 In the view of morphological that kid's maintain the walk character and disciplinarian during their up growth in different age range. For example, for toddler fm 12-14 moth ( size #2-4) ; their foot bones is just started upgrowth with almost flat arch, keep minor;heavy and high step , touchdown the ground firstly by tiptoe. Around age 2-3(size# 5-7), they can start to walk with a wider stride and toruchdown the ground fm heel treat point instead of tip toe,no more oblivious touchdown by tip toe. Around age 4-5(size# 8-12) ,they can walk with coherent leg movement but slightly jounce;keep the process steadily of treated down the ground fm heel to the tip toe as normal. This two genders will have a different grading step with Junior and Adult to reflect their foot development. Last Grading 1

22. Last Grading 2 2.) For Junior, & W/M Genders’ Grading. last size break C 13- J1- J 2- J 3- J 4- J 5/- M 6-7-8-9-10-12-13-14, model size J1, M 9 , and W7 =J5 in unisexual sizing W 6-7-8-9-10-11 Around age 7 ( size#13-2) they can start have the walk scale/pose as a mature way, keep the consistent step distance so grading of last keeps same step and alien with adult. Above 8 till around age 15, foot bones been developing maturately and completely, it is very important for kid's aged 0-15 to protect their foot fm hurting during the different development of foot bones, one pair of uncomfortable shoe may hurt the kid's foot bones and might influence the foot bone healthy development,

23. # 1 ) For Infants and Children , C 0 -C12 Genders. Length Grade 1/3 inch between whole sizes 8.46mm Ball Girth Grade 3/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mm Waist Girth Grade 3/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mm Instep Girth Grade 1/16 inch between whole sizes 4.76mm Ball White Grade 1/16 inch between whole sizes 1.58mm Toe Girth Grade 1/32 (scan) inch between whole sizes. 75mm Please refer to below grading chart: # 2 ) For Junior, & W/M Genders’ Grading. Length Grade 1/3 inch between whole sizes 8.46mm Ball Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mm Waist Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mm Instep Girth Grade ¼ inch between whole sizes 6.35mm Ball Width Grade 1/12 inch between whole sizes 2.12mm Toe Girth Grade 1/32 (scan) inch between whole sizes. 75mm Based on above we have size breaks for kids last for infant/toddler's size0-8, for children fm 8.5-13.5 and 1-6 for junior ( Athletic kid's last break standard). which is very important for kid's shoes to be followed to give our next generation a healthy condition for foot bone development ,as foot is the base of the last, last is the soul for shoe making. Last Grading Standard

24. Part III: Lasts Measurements

25. Seven inevitable measurements to develop and control fit on last. These data will reflect and comprehend properly measuring method on physical last once by digital file and traditional tape measuring. The industrial standards of last below will be organized and grouped into Clog, Sneaker, Flip-Flop ,Sandal, Shell/pack boots, Work shoes, Hiker, Casual, and Dress for easily utilizing once any new design needs data from a comfortable and better fit on new last. OM: Bottom length. CB: Ball width on last bottom. Ball Girth: line up CB around last with ball point on last cone . JH: Waist Girth. YW: Instep Girth. Toe spring. Heel height Please review the interpretation of crucial seven elements in last data, industrial standards to create and develop a good last. Standards Of Last

27. Clog lasts Measurements (follow Crocs) No sock 14 12 55 191 - 194 182 - 185 188-191 64 - 66 173 - 175 10# Children's 4 Children's No sock 14 12 62 210 - 213 201 - 204 207-210 73 - 75 207 - 209 1# Junior's 3 Junior's No sock 16 14 70 238 - 241 229 - 232 235 - 238 84 - 86 245 - 247 7# Womens 2 W's No sock 18 16 76 260 - 263 251 - 254 257 - 260 99 - 101 275 - 277 9# Mens 1 M'S Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Bottom Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

28. Sneaker lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3 181-185 154-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 126-128 4# Infant's 5 Infants D-E 3 10 16 254-259 189-192 179-181 176-178 66-68 176-178 10# Children's 4 Children's D 4 10 16 292-297 208-211 201-203 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D 4 12 18 336-342 231-234 223-226 220-223 78-80 244-246 7# Womens 2 W's B 5 12 18 381-387 260-264 251-254 248-251 92-94 276-278 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

29. Flip-Flop lasts Measurements ( Thong Sandal) No sock 30 145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5 Infants D-E No sock 10 6 38 179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4 Children's D No sock 10 6 41 201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D No sock 10 6 46 219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2 W's B No sock 10 6 52 259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Toe Split Length (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No. Note: Slide Sandal Last Measurements Same as Flip Bottom Length & Width Plus 1/8 (3mm) on Ball, Waist & Instep Toe Spring should be 8mm. Slide last could be applied to thong construction. But Flip cannot unless use above add-0n.

30. Sandal lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock 145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5 Infants D-E No sock 10 12 179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4 Children's D No sock 10 14 201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D No sock 12 16 219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2 W's B No sock 12 17 259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

31. Shell/ Pack boots lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 4 13 16 269-273 193-195 188-190 185-187 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4 Children's D 5 15 16 314-319 217-220 211-213 208-210 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D 5 16 18 344-350 240-244 234-237 231-234 86-88 246-248 7# Womens 2 W's B 5 16 21 403-410 273-278 263-267 260-264 96-98 278-280 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

32. Work shoes lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 4 13 16 189-191 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4 Children's D 5 15 16 208-211 202-204 200-202 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D 5 16 18 238-242 233-236 230-233 84-86 246-248 7# Womens 2 W's B 5 16 21 268-273 261-265 258-262 94-96 278-280 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

33. Hiker lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3 12 14 189-192 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4 Children's D 5 14 14 208-211 199-201 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D 5 15 17 231-235 223-226 220-223 82-84 244-246 7# Womens 2 W's B 5 15 20 264-269 253-257 250-254 93-95 276-278 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

34. Casual lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3 153-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 125-127 4# Infant's 5 Infants D-E 3 8 11 187-190 178-180 175-177 65-67 175-177 10# Children's 4 Children's D 3 9 12 206-209 199-202 194-197 74-76 209-211 1# Junior's 3 Junior's D 3 11 14 229-233 221-224 218-221 81-83 244-246 7# Womens 2 W's B 3 12 15 258-263 248-252 245-249 91-93 275-277 9# Mens 1 M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

35. W's Dress lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock 3 inch 9 138 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's No sock 2 inch 8 146 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's No sock 1 inch 7 156 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's W's B Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Tread point (fm heel bottom) (mm) Back Length/Short Heel m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

36. Good Luck!