Different Machines used in Testing and.pdf

Footwear Material Testing
Prof. D.K. Chaturvedi
Head Dept. of footwear Tech.
D.E.I. (Deemed to be Univ.)
Dayalbagh Agra

Organization of Talk
• Introduction of footwear.
• Footwear Manufacturing Process
• Why testing is needed?
• Benefits of testing
• Different Tests
• Tensile, compressive testing
• Flexing endurance
• Abrasion testing
• Slip resistance test
• Water Resistance test

A typical construction of the shoe
• Footwear can be classified as:
• Open/semi open Footwear
• Flip flop, sandal, crocks etc.
• Closed Footwear
• With laces and
• without laces
• Two main parts of footwear:
• the upper and
• the sole,
• The upper is formed by the vamp (that covers the
front of the foot, covering the toecap), the
counter (that covers the back of the foot), and
joined by the quarter (covering the foot side). The
lining is a inner upper constituent.
• The sole (known as outsole when is made of one
piece) is the underside of the shoe, comprising the
insole, midsole, bottom filler and the heel.
These components are usually produced
outside of the footwear manufacturer for
cost reasons.

Diagram of a typical shoe manufacturing process
Before sewing, the pieces are skived (which
consists in reducing the leather thickness at the
edge of the part, to allow for their overlap), folded
(a step consisting of folding and fixing the edge of
the workpiece with a latex or cement (natural
rubber-based glue)
The cutting process can be manual (using cutter
knife) or automated systems are used to obtain
all the parts of the shoes.
In lasting, insole is prepared and adjusted to the
upper using the last( made of wood or plastic),
adjusted to the shoe model and to the size. The last
gives shape of shoe. The insole and upper are
bonded to the sole with adhesives.
Finishing - necessary to improve the aesthetic of the shoe. shoe may be subjected to brushing, greasing,
polishing, waxing, and even to the application of paint (coloring).
Accessories like cords and labels are applied, excess adhesive is wiped and cleaned and the finishing
insoles are bonded into place. The process ends with the inspection, where the shoes are subjected to
observation and comparison of the two shoes of the same pair in order to verify if they meet the
specification required by both the modeler and the client.
The packaging step is where the shoe is placed in boxes and labeled with an indication of the model and
the number. Here, the final quality control is also made, where the shoe is last checked for defects.

Application of adhesives in footwear
industries
• To bond uppers to soles, the following steps to follow:
(a) Application of adhesive on the upper
(b) Application of adhesive on the sole;
(c) Allow the adhesive to dry, by solvents evaporation, about 5–10 min for solvent-
based PU adhesive and 15–20 minutes for solvent-based PCP adhesive at room
temperature
(d) For solvent-based PU adhesive, activate the adhesive by heat (infrared
radiation, IR), approximately between 55 and 80oC for 2–6 s is required. In
addition, PCP adhesive is also heat active when drying time is over open time.
Activation time depends on material colour;
(e) Attach the uppers and soles, placing the desired position;
(f) Pressing for 4–5 s at a pressure of approximately 2–4 bar. The press depends on
material nature and hardness. Press time depends on crystallization rate.

Customer Tendency
• Many factors are in mind when you buy any product. The important factors are:
- Cost
- Quality
- Comfort
- Light
- Safety
- Environmental friendly
- Braded company
- ISI mark
....
• Cost is most important for Indian customers. Hence, Chinese products are popular –cheaper but use and throw.
• Quality and comfort are important factors when you purchase footwear or leather products, which are toxin free. To ensure these
characteristics many tests is to be done such physical test, chemical test, visual inspections etc.
How many of you go to market for purchasing goods?
When you go to market to buy any product what factors do you
consider?

Quality check at different Levels
Quality
Check
Raw
Material
Process
Component
clicking
Stitching Lasting Construction Finishing Packaging
Finished
Product
To check the quality of product testing is an essential step. It is important for customer satisfaction and
industry to protect from legal pursuits /reputation.

Classification of Testing
Testing
Complete
Product
Everyday
Footwear
Safety Shoes
Sports Shoe
Fashion
Shoes
Ortho Shoes
Components
Upper
Components
Bottom
Components
Allied
material
Thread
Eyelet
material
Adhesive
Shank
Toecap

Why do we need Testing?
• The footwear industry currently uses a large diversity of materials and over time this has increased the challenges placed on the
adhesives industry, since bonding dissimilar materials with good performance requires specially formulated adhesives. This
performance is usually evaluated with different tests.
• The quality and properties of the final product do not depend only on the correct execution of the shoe-making steps but also on
the materials used during the construction.
• Testing are important to ensure the quality and authenticity of leather and footwear material or its products, so that they can be
legally allowed to be sold in targeted local and foreign market. Every country has its own country specific standards for leather and
footwear materials, which is necessary to be followed to export these items to any country. This also eliminate the risk of returning
the consignments of items once sent to any country eg. to sale footwear in Europe has to comply certain legal safety requirements
decided by European testing standards.
• The durability of hides depends on the treatments used in tanning process, including dyeing and coatings. The common issues that
can be identified and removed by physical testing of products prior to send to market to safe guard from any legal proceedings.
These common issues are:
• Loosening of leather
• Non-uniform dyeing and coloring
• Crack development during usage
• Density variation
• Strength of leather
• Breakage
• To overcome these issues and follow the standards of ISO, which is worldwide acceptable and they are updated time to time. A
variety of physical testing methods are dictated by ISO. For example, "Genuine Leather" is rot proof with its original fiber structure
intact. The hair or wool may or may not have been removed. Leather surface coatings and glued finishes must not be more than
0.15 mm thickness.

Benefits of testing
There are dual advantages of testing:
• To protect customer benefits
• Boost customers' confidence and satisfaction in the products
• Communicate high standards of quality
• Ensure the quality and safety of the products.
• To evaluate the performance and durability of products.
• To protect industry benefits also.
• Improve market position of industry
• Reduce recall risk of products.
• Safe-guard industry from legal pursuits and reputation

Testing
Complete
Footwear
Everyday Safety
Industry
(Impact test)
Electrician
(HV test)
Fire-fighting
(Thermal test)
Sports Fashion Ortho
Components
Allied
material
Fashion Footwear needs to be desirable (best looking) and safe.
Common tests are Heel strength and attachment are important considerations.
Sports Footwear – To minimize physical stress.
Testing to secure the optimum balance between footwear performance and comforts.
Ortho Footwear – To maintain better hygiene conditions and safe.
Testing of Footwear,
components and materials

Different types of Testing
• Different Types of Testing for Quality Control and maintaining brand name
• Mechanical Testing
• Density (Apparent and Real) measurement Test
– Weight measurement (using Physical Balance)
• Shrinkage Test – for Leather, and other fabric material
• Tensile, Shear and peel Strength Test – using UTM
• Compressive Test – using UTM
• Abrasion resistance test
• Flexing Endurance Test
• Color Fastness
• Water absorption Test
• Cold crack test - ISO 17233:2017
• Physical Testing
• magnetic,
• optical
• electrical properties,
• Thermal Test
• Sole skid resistance test
• Size fitting test
• Final Shoe Test
• or even by the environmental impact
• Chemical Testing
• pH value of leather
• Chrome Content of leather
• Oil and Fat content in leather
• Moisture content
• Stiffness and Toe puff Bond
ability

What is whole shoe testing?
• A whole shoe test tells you whether your finished shoe is safe to
retail.
• Whole shoe testing comprises of product quality, materials and
chemical tests, on finished footwear. At Eurofins / BLC, we assess
what tests are needed on case by case basis.
• Due to the complexity of global supply chains, there are many
possibilities for safety, manufacturing, and chemical issues to arise in
footwear and footwear component production. Therefore, it’s
important to detect and identify any problems which could prevent or
restrict your product being retailed.

Indian standard – A History
• This Indian Standard was adopted by the Indian Standards Institution on 7
January 1970
• India being a 'P' member of ISO/TC 120 has the necessary obligation to
adopt these methods of test as far as practicable.
• Alignment of this standard with well established methods would also
facilitate international trade in the field of leather in which India occupies a
unique position.
• Besides these, certain methods of test have also been adopted from
American Society for Testing and Materials, USA standard methods, such as
the double hole stitch tear resistance test, measurement of area, width and
thickness of leather units.
• This standard prescribes the methods for carrying out physical tests for all
types of leathers.
• During 48 hours immediately preceding its use in a test, keep each test
piece for physical testing at a standard atmospheric temperature of 27 ±
2°C and relative humidity 65 ± 2 percent ( see IS : 196-1966* ).

National and International standards
• National and International standards in leather and footwear material
testing are as follows:
• International (ISO - International Organization for Standardization )
• Europe (EN - European Standards)
• German (DIN - Deutsche Institute Normen)
• USA (ASTM - American Society for Testing and Materials)
• Japan (JIS - Japanese Industrial Standards)
• China (GB - Guobiao Standards)
• Vietnam (TCVN - Technical committee of Vietnam)
• Italy - (SATRA - Shoe and Allied Trade Research Association)
• France - (NF- French National Standard)
• Russia – (GOST – R GOsudarstvennyy Standart means GOvernment STandard Russia)
• India – (BIS – Bureau of Indian Standards)
The BIS Certification is obligatory for these products, so that they can be introduced and sold on the
Indian market. BIS Certification India or BIS Registration issued by the Bureau of Indian Standards
(BIS) ensure the quality, safety and reliability of products in accordance with Indian Standards (IS).
The ISI mark is proof that a product has been checked for quality.

Size fitting test
• “The size you wore when you’re 18 might not be the same size you wear when
you’re 42, just like you’re probably not wearing the same size pants,” Gray says.
“And that’s okay. But we need to get those measurements to know how to
change it.” In fact, he recommends getting measured once a year.
• what can go wrong when you wear one that doesn’t fit?.
• Notice some red marks on their feet which means their shoes are too tight.
• causing pain on the top of your foot or numbness and tingling throughout them.
• Wear shoes that are too short, and your toes can butt up against the front. This contributes
to the bane of runners’ existence, black and missing toenails.
• This contact can also damage toe ligaments and the metatarsals, leading to deformities like
hammer toes,
• Over time, you can also develop Freiberg’s infraction—a stress fracture of the second
metatarsal—from repeated impact.
• Going too big, meanwhile, means your foot shifts around in your shoe. If a shoe doesn’t lock
down over your navicular bone, your foot can move back and forth with each step. The shear
stress of shifting shoes and bunching socks against skin creates blisters, Vincent says. Plus,
you can also wind up with bruised toes and toenails this way as your foot bangs into the front
of the shoe with each slide,

Adhesives in Footwear Industry: A History
• In the footwear industry, the most important method for joining materials is
adhesive bonding.
• Adhesive are interchangeably called cement, mucilage, glue, and paste— any
organic material that forms an adhesive bond.
• In 1906 nitrocellulose adhesives were introduced, being replaced in 1949 by poly-
chloroprene adhesives (PCP), which due to their versatility present good results in
leather bonding, textiles and other materials.
• In 1970 the PU adhesives are then introduced in the footwear industry.
Subsequently adhesives based on styrene-isoprene-styrene (SIS), styrene-
butadiene-styrene (SBS), styrene-butadiene rubber (SBR), latex, aqueous
dispersions and hot melts were used.
• However, for the bonding of upper/soles, adhesives used are based on PCP and
PU.

Chemical and mechanical Treatment
• In the footwear industry, the most commonly used chemical treatment is via
halogenated substances.
• During production, PU soles are coated with a release agent to facilitate its removal from
the mould and the footwear industry uses more than one treatment, starting with
mechanical carding which is followed by application of a primer.
• On the leather based uppers, mechanical treatment is applied followed by the
application of a primer. This treatment creates mechanical roughening on the substrate
surface by increasing the contact area and therefore increasing the number of possible
linkages in the interface between the adhesive and the substrate.
• In the footwear industry, the mechanical treatment is the most widely used, with the
carding performed using the sandpaper [6]. The primer also works as a surface pre-
treatment and consists in a polymer solution in organic solvents. This composition is
related with the adhesive, but with low viscosity, forming a thin layer on the substrate.
• The primer, when dry, provides a very strong bond with the adhesive, requiring
compatibility of the primer with the adhesive [6].

Heat Re-activation
• Applying PU adhesive on the substrate and after the drying time, it forms a
film which does not have any tackiness. Only when subjected to
temperature is that the film of adhesive softens, acquiring the necessary
tack for attaching the substrates.
• The reactivation temperature and time are determined by the need to
soften the adhesive film and not the sole, enabling rapid development of
bond strength.
• When working with soles that soften at low temperatures, it is necessary
the use of an adhesive to provide a low temperature required for
reactivation, so it might be possible to manufacture the joint by adjusting
the time required for the reactivation of the adhesive film.

Process of application of the PU adhesive
solvent-based
• In the bonding of the upper to soles, the
shoe industry follows the next steps:
• treatment of the substrate surface;
• apply the adhesive on the upper;
• apply the adhesive on the sole;
• let the adhesive dry by evaporation about 5 to
10 minutes at room temperature;
• activate the adhesive using infrared radiation
(IR) from 60 to 80°C for 2 to 6 seconds;
• join the upper and sole, placing in the desired
position;
• pressing for 4 to 5 seconds at a pressure of
approximately 2 to 4 bar [7]
• Left for curing

TESTS
• normally, tests should be carried out within two months from the
date of receipt of the material by the purchaser.
• NOTE 1 — It may be necessary in certain cases to carry out tests
immediately after receipt of the material.
• NOTE 2 — Care should be taken to store the material in a dark cool
place before testing.

Universal Testing Machine (UTM)
• The following Tests can be performed on UTM:
• Tensile Strength Test
• Shear Strength Test
• Peel Strength Test
• Tongue Tear Test
• Compressive Strength Test
• Impact Test

Different component of Computerised UTM
machine
• Power supply and switches
• Single Phase Induction motor
• Speed control mechanism
• Rack and pinion gear mechanism
• Fixed Jaw and Movable Jaw
• Load cells (Transducer) to measure Force
• Length Measurement
• Interface circuit (A/D)
• Computer and display device
• Printer

DoP Experiment No. DoS
• Objective:
• Need of the experiment
• Theory
• Procedure
• Observation Table
• Results and Discussion
• Conclusion
• Precautions
• Short answer question

Adhesion strength test (Wet and Dry)
• A test system was required to measure and ensure that
the footwear and its components passed quality standards set
out by their end-customers. There are many test methods that
are used to measure the strength of an adhesive including tensile
test, shear test or peel test. For these tests universal Testing
Machine (UTM) is used.
• Tensile strength Test
• Peel Strength Test
• Shear Strength
(a)Tensile Strength (b) Peel Strength (c) Shear Strength

Peel strength
• ISO 20344:2004 is designed to evaluate the bonding properties
of soles where adhesion is measured by determining whether
or not it is acceptable for the desired effect. This standard
allows to obtain the peel strength per unit width, which is
medium strength per unit width, applied by an angle between
90° and 180°, depending on the flexibility of the substrate, in
relation to joint, needed to lead to rupture. In the footwear
industry independently of the type of materials used, to ensure
its durability, it is necessary for adhesive joints fulfilling certain
specifications defined by EN 20344 (5.2), which establishes the
minimum values to consider for difficult bonding.
• EN ISO 11339:2010 determines the test method for obtaining
the bond strength at an angle of 180°, but using the materials
in the form of specimen.

Reference values of adhesion upper/soles,
according to standard EN 15307

Peel Strength Test at different angles
(a) Peel test at 60 degree (b) Peel test at 180 degree (c) peel test at different angles
Fig. Peel strength Test

Peel Strength Test
• Peel strength test is used to measure the adhesive strength between the bonded
surface of two flexible substrates or a flexible and rigid substrate. This test is
performed at different angle ϴ such as 60 degree, 90 degree, 180 degree etc. on
universal testing machine (UTM) to check the quality of adhesive bonding. If
footwear is placed onto the market with poor quality heel attachment – due to
either inadequate design or poor manufacturing processes – the result may be an
injury to the wearer as well as a loss of customer confidence in the brand. This
can also lead to high replacement and compensation costs.
• SATRA TM113:1996 – ‘Measurement of the heel strength of attachment of heels
to footwear and back part rigidity of such footwear’ allows an assessment to be
made of the strength of heel attachment in completed footwear. The method is
applicable to all footwear with separately attached heels. When conducting this
test, the shoe is clamped at the forepart and the heel is pulled backwards at a
constant rate.

Adhesive joint leather/TR: peel strength per unit width
Adhesive joint leather/PU: peel strength per unit width

Tensile test between upper and sole
• The quality of adhesion between upper and sole is of vital importance
for the footwear. The insufficient quality of adhesion can cause the
discontact between upper and sole, which leads to the reduction or
elimination of footwear’s vital characteristics (comfort, water
resistance etc).
• This test is to measure the strength of the adhesion of stuck -on and
moulded soles at the toe and heel of finished footwear.
• A gradual downhill force applied by the toe piece to separate the sole
from the upper. This force is shown by the load dial gauge. The actual
load to separate them can be measured.
• Standard: ISO20344, ISO20345

Tensile strength Test
• tensile strength of shoe lace
• maximum force needed and maximal elongation at final point of elongation,
just before breaking. Two clamps stretch the lace at continuous stabile
movement speed until breaking; computer records the force and elongation.
• Standard: SATRA PM94
• Tensile strength of different material such as
• leather,
• upper,
• Textile

Tensile Strength Test- Procedure
• Step 1 Preparation of sample
• Step 2 Holding samples into UTM jaws
• Step 3 Gradually apply force
• Step 4 measure force and corresponding elongation
• Step 4 note Maximum force and elongation.
• Step 5 Draw Graph between stress and strain

To determination of tensile strength, temporary and
permanent elongation at specified load, Modulus and
elongation of leathers of all types.
• Tensile Strength — The force per unit of the original cross-sectional area of the unstretched test
piece which is applied at the time of rupture of the test piece. It is calculated by dividing the
breaking force in kilograms- force by the cross-section of the unstretched test piece in square
centimetres.
• Elongation — The extension between bench marks produced by a tension force applied to a test
piece. It is expressed by a percentage of the original distance between the marks on the un-
stretched test piece.
• Elongation at Specified Load — The extension between bench marks produced by a specified
tension force applied to a test piece. It is calculated by taking the difference between the original
length and the length at the specified load, expressed as a percentage of the original length.
• Elongation at Break — The extension between bench marks produced by a tension force applied
to a test piece, at the time of its rupture. It is calculated by taking the difference between the
original length and the length at the time of rupture under the tension force, expressed as a
percentage of the original length.
• Modulus — The tensile stress required to stretch the test piece from the unstained condition to a
fixed elongation.

THE TEST PIECES
Sample preparation
1. Samples are taken from the different
portions of the hide to check their tensile
strength.

CALCULATION
1. Calculate the tensile strength by dividing the breaking load by the area of cross-
section of the test piece and express the result in kilograms force per square
centimetre (kgf/cm2).
2. Calculate temporary elongation at the specified load by taking the difference
between the original length and the length at the specified load and express this
difference as a percentage of the original length.
3 Calculate the permanent elongation from the residual length, expressed as a
percentage on the original length.
4 Modulus — Note the load at the specified elongation and express the result in
kilograms-force per square centimetre ( kgf/cm2 ) by dividing the load by the area
of cross-section of test piece.
5 Calculate the elongation at break by taking the difference between the original
length and the length at break and express this difference as a percentage of the
original length

TONGUE TEAR TEST PIECE
TEST PIECE
5.1 Six strips 75 × 25 mm, three in the 'along' direction and three in
the 'across' direction from the sample location specified in 3.1 of LP : 0
Punch a hole 5 mm in diameter, 25 mm from one end of each test
piece and on the centre line. Cut through the test piece from the hole
to the further end along the centre line to produce the test piece
Procedure
Insert one
tongue of the test piece in each jaw of the machine as shown in Fig. 2, so
that there is an inch length of each tongue clamped, with the inner cut
edge along the centre line of the jaws. Separate the jaws at a constant-
rateof- traverse of the lower jaw of 75 mm/min. Watch the start of the tear
closely and obtain a load extension record for the tearing which takes
place.
29

Results
• Read from the load/extension graph the following:
a) The load at which the first signs of a tear
starting are evident.
b) The maximum load (if there is one) close
to the start of the tear.
( This maximum seems to correspond to the
establishment of a tear through the full thickness of
the material. Once this stage is reached a somewhat
lower load is often sufficient to continue the tear ).
c) The average load to continue the tear.
These three loads are
illustrated in Fig. 3. Record if the test piece tears to
the strip.

Impact test using UTM
(ISI - 152386)
• Safety boots are fitted with a protective toecap which is capable to withstand a
200 Joules impact. This is a 20 kg mass dropped from a height of 1 meter on to
the area just above the big toe.
• A “striker” tip similar to a blunt axe is fitted to the bottom of the falling mass and
strikes in the toe to heel direction. This test to simulate as a person carrying a
load and suddenly, load is fallen onto the toe from chest height.
• It was originally considered that the toes are impacted because the gravitational
speed of travel of the mass allows the foot to be moved, but often, not in enough
time to clear the toes from the impact zone. All safety boots must pass this test.
The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the moment of
maximum depression of the toecap.
• Impact Test to check for resistance of Steel/plastic protective toe caps for impacts
of (100 / 200J).

Footwear Compression resistance test using
UTM
• The toe section of a boot is fitted between two compression plates
and a vertical load of 15,000 Newton’s is applied on to the top of a
toecap.
• This test could be similar to a car or light vehicle lowered over the toe
when a car jack is released. All safety boots must pass this test.
• The standards require minimum clearances inside the toecap at the
moment of maximum depression of the toecap.
• Specific Ergonomic Features: In this test a brief wear trial assesses the
boot to make sure in can be worn without discomfort or interference
in walking, stair-climbing, or crouching.

Compression resistance of toe caps
• This test measure resistance of protective toe caps to compression.
• Protective, safety and some models of occupational footwear
incorporate a protective toe caps, which protects wearers feet/toes
from compression by heavy outside force. Therefore, the toe cap
should be of certain quality in order to effectively perform its
function.
• Sample requirements: 3 pairs of toe caps in three different sizes
(smallest, mid, biggest) are needed.
• Standard: EN12568, EN ISO 20344: 5.5.

Thermal Resistance Test – Hot conditions
• It tests the increase of temperature in the interior of shoe, when
whole shoe is exposed to warm (rather hot) environment – sand.
Depending on the type of footwear, the temperature of sand is
between 150 and 250 degrees Celsius. At the same time the
resistance of footwear sole is tested to warm/hot environment. Just
soles can also be tested, but without measuring the increase of
temperature – just deformations on the sole, caused due to exposure
to warm/hot conditions.

Thermal Resistance Test – Cold conditions
• It tests the fall of temperature inside the shoe, i.e. thermal insulation
of the shoe, when whole shoe is exposed to cold/freezing
environment. The standard test if performed at – 17 degrees Celsius.
However, on clients request simulations can be made in other
conditions down to – 25 degrees Celsius.
• Why is it important?: Thermal insulation is one of the most important
characteristics of professional footwear. From the level of thermal
insulation depends when the wearer of footwear will start to feel
uncomfortable due to cold/freezing conditions.

Testing the Electrical Resistance
of Materials for
Protective Footwear

Organization of Electrical Resistance Test for
Protective Footwear
• What is protective Footwear
• Need of HV Testing
• Facilities in DEI
• Experimentation
• Results
• Conclusion

What is Protective shoe?
• Around the globe, many workers lost their jobs during the Covid- 19
pandemic period. The footwear Industry is not untouched from that. In all
countries, many workers are unemployed or under-employed. These
situation forced workers to do work at risky workplaces and polluted
environments to earn their bread and butter. In developing countries,
workers slave in workplaces at wages which are appalling and such
conditions threaten their lives and their families too.
• Protective shoes normally used in industries for their safety from
• Electrostatic charges
• Working on Electrical wires which are live
• Working on equipment/wires which have static charge.
• Capacitors which are charges.

Why electrical resistance of footwear is
important ?
Electrostatic fields (ESF) are among the key contributors to health
deterioration in blue-collar workers. In some industries, the EFSF
intensity of equipment far exceeds the permissible levels.
They found out poor grounding and static electricity on human bodies
to be the second and the third most frequent cause of accidents: 24%
and 13% of all cases, respectively.
Protective Footwear can be classified into:
• antistatic conductive footwear: 102 to 105 Ohm;
• antistatic dissipative footwear: 105 to 108 Ohm;
• insulating footwear: 109 Ohm or above.

Electrical Resistance Electrician shoes
• There are three ways footwear can be considered electrically resistant
Conductive: This footwear has low electrical resistance to a 100 Volt D.C. charge
and is designed to remove static electricity from the body very easily, but has
very little protection from an electric shock.
• Antistatic: This footwear can remove static electricity, but it still has limited
protection to electric shock under a 100 Volt D.C. charge. Electrically insulating:
This footwear is designed to give some protection from voltages below 5,000 or
10,000 volts.
• Cut resistance: In this test a small rotating blade under low load of about 500g is
stroked over the boot upper to assess resistance to accidental exposure to a
sharp edge or knife blade. This test is also known as the blade or glove cut test
and was originally designed for butchers and the like.
• GOST R 53734.2.3-2010

What is static electricity?
• electric charge that has built up on an insulated body, static electricity
is a major industry hazard, with the potential to cause fires and
explosions.
• There are numerous chemical containment examples, as well as
general industry cases, where static electricity igniting fluid or dust
has been the root cause of serious incidents.
• According to the National Fire Protection Association and the UK’s
Institution of Chemical Engineers, static electricity is the prime culprit
for at least two serious fires or explosions in industry worldwide every
day of the year.

Three conditions that must be in place for static
electricity to become a hazard and potentially
cause a fire or explosion.

Static charge and lining materials

• Electrostatic discharge(ESD) will produce slight sparks, which we can hardly notice with the naked
eye, but for precision electronic parts, chips, high-concentration dust, chemicals, and gas oil, it is
huge enough to cause failure and explosion. Therefore, it is necessary to take various measures
to eliminate static electricity in the workplace to avoid disasters.
• 2.1 Anti static shoes
The resistance of anti static shoes is as low as 0.1 to 1000 megohms (MΩ). The use of anti
static safety shoes can send these charges to the ground, thereby preventing the accumulation of
static electricity in the human body, thereby preventing the sudden current generation between
charged objects due to contact.
• 2.2 ESD shoes
The resistance of ESD (or electrostatic discharge) shoes is lower than that of anti-static
shoes, ranging from 0.1 to 100 (MΩ). Using ESD safety boots can safely lead the charge from the
body to the ground, the purpose is to prevent excessive accumulation of static electricity on the
body. Avoid hidden dangers caused by contact between the body and charged objects.

ESD standards
• ESD comes into play: EN 61340-5-1 protects electronic equipment
from electrostatic phenomena.

the accidents associated with the effects of
static electricity ?
• Electrostatic fields (ESF) are among the key contributors to health
deterioration in blue-collar workers.
• In some industries, the EFSF intensity of equipment far exceeds the
permissible levels. Oil and gas refineries are the most hazardous
facilities in this respect, as the ESF intensity there may reach or even
exceed 300 kV/m, whether accidents associated with the effects of
static electricity. the maximum permissible level is 15 kV/m .
• Which causes the accidents associated with the effects of static
electricity.
• Also the electricians who are working on High voltage also requires
proper insulation so that they will not get shock.

Point-to-point resistance measurement
• Protective footwear features a multicomponent design; its antistatic properties
arise from the materials used for some parts of such footwear: composite
fibrous-porous materials , woven and nonwoven materials
• The conductivity of its materials depends on ambient temperature and the inner
temperature of footwear and also on humidity and sweating of foot.
• The specimens were heated to 20°С, 25°С, 30°С, 35°С,and 40°С, measuring the
electrical resistance every 5°C.
• At least 6 specimens of similar materials are tested.

Results
• synthetic materials have electrical resistance as a linear function of
temperature within the limited range
• Natural materials shows either nonlinear or linear dependence
depending on the finish.

Relation of Electrical Resistance and
temperature

Electrical resistance of the specimens.

Experimental setup of HVT machine

Results for Dielectric strength
41
42
43
44
45
Reading 1 Reading 2 Reading 3
Sole Heel
36
38
40
42
Sole Toe
32
34
36
38
40
Sole Middle
20
22
24
26
28
Upper shoe
(a)- The dielectric strength of sole heel of the EVA shoe
(c)-The dielectric strength of sole toe of the EVA shoe
(b)-The dielectric strength of middle sole of EVA shoe (d)-The dielectric strength of Upper of the EVA shoe

down strength of different components of
EVA shoe manufactured at 135 degree C
Sr.No. Parts of shoe Reading 1 Reading 2 Reading 3 Average
1 Sole Heel 42 44 42 42.6
2 Sole Middle 35 38 37 36.6
3 Sole Toe 38 41 40 39.6
4 Top Portion 26 22 24 24
break down strength under Temperature: - 15 C and Humidity:
- 87%
microscope at 10x scope

Break down strength of different components of
EVA shoe manufactured at 132 degree C
Sr.No. Parts of shoe Reading 1 Reading 2 Reading 3 Average
1 Sole Heel 40 42 40 40.67
2 Sole Middle 32 35 35 34
3 Sole Toe 34 38 39 37
4 Top Portion 24 22 23 23
microscope at 10x scope

Conclusion
• Yellow are conductive materials (102 to 105 Ohm),
• green are dissipative materials (105 to 108 Ohm), and
• orange are insulating materials that are not suitable for antistatic
footwear because they tend to accumulate static charge and are
therefore not intrinsically safe (109 to 1014 Ohm).
• Apparently, materials of Specimens 2 and 3 are the best for antistatic
footwear, whilst Specimen 7 is on the border of dissipation.

Flexing Endurance Testing Machines
• Different Components
• Power Supply
• Control Mechanism
• Digital Counter and Display unit
• Fixed and movable Jaws

Flexing Endurance Test
• It test the resistance of soles on flexing movements
• The anatomy of walking requires flexing of the shoe in the metatarsal
area. Consistent sole flexing can cause cracks, which lead to reduction
of functional characteristics of sole and whole footwear (comfort,
water resistance…). By
• pre-testing a producer can identify potential problems and anticipate
cracking of the sole, which causes customers’ dissatisfaction and
increases his purchase costs.
• Standard: ISO 20344, ISO20345, SATRA TM161

Sole flexing Test
• It tests the endurance of rubber on flexing movements.
• Why is it important?: Before producing soles, producer should check
the endurance of material from which the soles will be produced. The
characteristics of finished soles are namely in direct relation to the
characteristics of materials that are made of. A buyer may require
both, sole and material, to be adequate to the norms.
• Sample requirements: a sample of material, that allows cutting 3
separate test pieces in dimensions of 15x2,5 cm.

flexing machine with cold chamber
• It tests the endurance of rubber on flexing movements in cold conditions. It
is possible to use the freezing conditions down to – 25 degrees Celsius.
• Why is it important? Before producing soles, producer should check the
endurance of material from which the soles will be produced. The
characteristics of finished soles are namely in direct relation to the
characteristics of materials that are made of. A buyer may require both,
sole and material, to be adequate to the norms. The possibility that
material will start to crack at consistent flexing movements in cold
condition is even higher than at normal conditions.
• Sample requirements: a sample of material, that allows cutting 3 separate
test pieces in dimensions of 15x2,5 cm.

Flexing Endurance
• Objective: This method is intended for use on light leathers for assessing their flexing endurance
as well as their surface finishes.
• Theory: The test piece is folded and clamped at each end to maintain it in a folded position in a
machine designed to flex it. One clamp is fixed and the other moves backwards and forwards
causing the fold in the test piece to run along it. The test piece is examined periodically to assess
what damage has been produced.
• The apparatus consists of the following:
• a) Upper Clamp — The upper clamp consists of a pair of flat plates. One has the shape of a
trapezium ABCD (Fig. 1) with the sharp corner at D rounded to a radius of 2 mm. It has a ledge EF
on which the folded test piece rests. The other plate has the shape ECHCF. It is possible to screw
the two plates together, so as to hold one end of the test piece between them as shown in Fig. 3 (
A ) . The screw K which draws the plates together acts also as a stop, which prevents the end of
the test piece from being thrust too far towards the back of the clamp. Between the plates near
the edge AB is a stop which prevents them from coming together near AB, and so ensures that
they clamp the leather firmly near F. The upper clamp may be reciprocated by a motor about a
horizontal axle J (Fig. 2). In the position shown in Fig. 2 the ledge EF is horizontal, and the end F is
at its highest point. The clamp descends through an angle of 22½° and returns 100 ± 5 times per
minute. The number of cycles is recorded by a counter.
• b) Lower Clamp — The lower clamp is fixed and lies in the same vertical plane as the upper clamp.
It consists of a pair of plates which are possible to be screwed together to hold the other end of
the test piece between them. If the upper clamp has been turned to the position where the ledge
EF is horizontal (Fig. 2) the upper edges of the plates of the lower clamp are 25 mm below the
ledge FF.

Upper Clamp for
holding test piece
• TEST PIECE
• Cut out test pieces rectangular in shape 70
× 45 mm from the sampling location
specified in 3.1 of LP : 0 unless otherwise
specified. Condition them in accordance
with 5.1 of LP : 0.

PROCEDURE
• 1. Insertion of Test Piece in Clamps — Turn the motor until the ledge EF is horizontal. Fold the test piece so that the two longer
sides arebrought together, turning inwards that surface of the leather which is to be observed during the test. ( Unless otherwise
specified, fold the leather grain inwards. ) Clamp the folded test piece in the upper clamp as shown in Fig. 3A, with one end of the
test piece against the stop and the folded edge against the ledge. Draw the free corners of the test piece outwards and downwards
as shown in Fig. 3 B, so that the surface which is turned inwards in the clamp is turned outwards below it. Draw the test piece
down, bringing together its two corners which have not been clamped; clamp it in the lower clamp as shown in Fig. 3 C with the
part of the fold between the clamps vertical, and using no more force than is needed to make the leather just taut ( see Note ).
• NOTE — The force needed to pull the leather taut when first clamping the test pieces in the machine depends upon the thickness
and stiffness of the leather. The force applied should not exceed what is needed to pull the leather taut.
• 2. Flexing — Clamp the test piece in the machine in the manner described in 5.1, and switch on the motor. After 100, 1 000, and
10 000 cycles, switch off the motor and examine the leather finish to see whether it has been damaged. Record any damage
observed, its nature and the number of cycles at which it was observed. After 2, 4, 6, 8, 12, 16, 24, and 32 hours of flexing,
examine the leather itself to see whether it has been damaged. Record any damage observed, its nature and the number of cycles
at which it was observed.
• 2.1 To find whether it has been damaged, remove the test piece from the clamps for examination, if necessary, and subsequently
return it for further flexing. When it is replaced, it should be clamped as nearly as possible in the same position as before. Use the
clamps marks as a useful guide for replacing the test piece correctly. If the test pieces extend during flexing, do not pull them taut
while removing and replacing.
Test Piece Clamped
in Upper and Lower
Clamps
Test Piece in
Upper Clamp
Test Piece
Folded Back

Observation
• examining the finish of a leather damage, illuminate surface and use a
magnifying glass giving about six-fold magnification, if necessary.
• The report as to the damage of the finish shall include description of
damages of the following kinds:
• a) Change of shade (greying) of the finish film without other damage;
• b) Crazing of the finish with smaller or greater surface cracks;
• c) Loss of adhesion of finish to the leather with slight or considerable
changes of colour in the folded area;
• d) Loss of adhesion of one finish layer to another, with slight or
considerable changes of colour; and
• e) Powdering or flaking off of finish, with slight or considerable changes of
colour.

Report
• The report as to the damage of the leather shall include description of
damage of the following kinds:
• a) Development of coarse grain folds ( called 'pipey grain ):
• b) Loss of an embossed grain pattern:
• c) Cracking of the grain layer;
• d) Powdering of the fibres ( usually on the flesh side or in the corium rather
than in the grain layer ); if much powdering has occurred,
• the leather may develop an empty feel, even if there is little sign of powder
on its surfaces; and
• e) Continuation of the breakdown of fibres to such an extent that a hole
develops through the entire thickness of the leather.

Abrasion Testing Machine
• Different Parts –
• Power Supply
• Steel Cylinder
• Collecting Tray
• Support/Frame
• Cover Sand Paper of suitable grit
• Sole holding arrangement
• Weight applying arrangement

Abrasion Test
• Abrasion is the property related with the resistance of a material when
subjected to friction.
• The abrasion tests evaluate the surface resistance of uppers, linings,
insocks, insoles, outsoles, laces and eyelets when rubbed with an
abrandant fabric or by action of a mechanical machine,
• Walking initiates rubbing between shoe interior materials and socks. If the
material is not of prescribed quality, the abrasion can damage its structure,
• which leads to reduction of material’s basic features. It also reduces the
visual attractiveness of product. This is why testing of material to abrasion
is needed.
• Standard: ISO20344, ISO20345, EN12947
• Sample requirements: Three samples of materials are needed, from each 4
separate circles of diameter 4,5 cm can be cut.

Lace abrasion test
• It tests the abrasion resistance of lace when moving through
standardized tool.
• Why is it important?: Laces are exposed to continuous movement
every day, when user laces and unlaces them. This can cause a lace
failure if the lace is not of an appropriate quality. Additionally this
causes many unpleasant moments to the wearer, because the
walking in unlaced shoes is dangerous and non economic.
• Additionally to this test is sometimes performed also the test on
dynamometer, which measures tensile and elongation capabilities
of laces. Often, the lace fails just in the moment of tight lacing
procedure. That is why both tests are interconnected.
• Standard: SATRA PM93
• Sample requirements: 2 pieces of lace. Preferably additional 2
other (but similar in characteristics) pieces are tested for better
comparison.

Methods for Abrasion Test
• There are two ways to assess the wear resistance of footwear soling
material.
• An actual wear trial can be carried out requiring several wearers and several months
of actual wear. This method gives the actual performance of the footwear, but it
requires long time, quite cumbersome and large number of persons involved in it.
• Alternatively, one can carry a time reduced standard abrasion test in laboratory using
a Abrasion testing machine which uses grit paper. This machine combines the realism
of a service trial with the speed of the lab test utilizing whole shoe and overcome the
drawbacks of first method. This machine produces a true walking action over a real
wear surface, speeds and pressures that reproduce values obtained in bio-
mechanical studies. The surface can be changed to simulate the trial of walk on
different surfaces (Flooring types) by changing the grit in machine. The force on
footwear can be changed by changing the weights applied on the mechanical leg.
Similarly speed can also be controlled by controlling the speed of the motor.

Methods of Machine Abrasion Test
• The soling material abrasion testing machine gives the result of
abrasion of sole and heel materials based on their density.
• The test pieces are 25 mm (or 1 inch) square and
• the abrasion cloth on drum is usually 80 grit.
• The loading on test piece is 0.56 kg/cm2.
• Dial gauges measuring thickness loss are a standard feature of the
machine.

Standards
• Test Standard Abrasion resistance of uppers, lining and insocks EN
13520 ISO 20344 (6.12)
• Abrasion resistance of insole EN ISO 20344 (7.3)
• Abrasion resistance of outsoles EN 12770 ISO 20871 ISO 4649 EN ISO
20344 (8.5)
• Abrasion between shoe laces and eyelets ISO 22774 EN ISO 22774.

Slip Resistance Testing
• The determination of friction or slip resistance is
a complex procedure and requires the careful and
accurate monitoring of a number of different
parameters in a relatively short time.

Understanding between slip and fall
resistance
• Coefficient of Friction (COF)
– Static Coefficient of Friction (SCOF)
– Dynamic Coefficient of Friction
– Traction
• Slip Resistance
– Static Slip Resistance
– Factor Affecting Slip Resistance
• It takes 5 lbs. of horizontal force to move a 10 lb. block
resting on a floor
• SCOF is 0.50 5 Lbs.
10 Lbs.

CoF (Contd.)
• Describes the ratio of the force of friction between two
bodies and the force pressing them together
Tires
Skis

CoF (Contd.)
• Depends on the materials used
– Ice on steel has a low COF, while rubber on pavement has a high
COF
• Depends on system variables
– Temperature, velocity, atmosphere, and geometric properties of
the interface between materials
• Ranges on a scale of 0 to greater than 1
– Under good conditions, a tire on concrete may have a COF of 1.7

CoF (Contd.)
• Depends on:
– The quality of both the walking surface and the shoe soles
– To prevent slip and falls, a high COF between the shoe and walking
surface is needed
• On icy, wet, and oily surfaces, the COF can be as low as 0.10 with shoes
that are not slip resistance
• A COF of 0.40-0.50 or more is needed for minimal traction

Traction
• Traction between two surfaces depends on several factors:
– Slip resistance
– Tread design
– Tread hardness
– Shape of sole and heel
– Abrasion resistance
– Contaminants at floor/shoe interface
– Chemical resistance
– Heat resistance

American National Standards Institute –
ANSI 1264.2
• Suggests 0.5 slip resistance on dry walking/working surfaces
• Other factors need to be considered
• Footwear types,
• Contaminants (water, oil, dirt, dust, etc.)
• Human factors (gait, attentiveness, activity, etc.)

ANSI/NFSI B101.1-2009
• Test method for measuring wet SCOF of common hard surface floor
materials

ANSI/NFSI B101.3-1012
• Test method for measuring wet DCOF of common hard surface floor
material (including action and limit thresholds for the suitable
assessment of the measured values)

Slip Resistance
• The relative force that resists the tendency of the shoe or foot to slide
along the walkway surface
• The frictional force opposing movement of an object across its
surface, usually with reference to the sole or heel of the shoe on a
floor
• The property of a walking surface that tends to inhibit
slipping of a pedestrian’s shoes under the prevailing
conditions

Slip Resistance
• Dependent upon many factors:
• Material and condition of the walkway surface
• Material and condition of the shoe sole or heel material
• The physical abilities of the user
• The presence of any contaminants on any or both of the surfaces, and other
factors

Slip Resistance (cont’d)
• ASTM F1637 Standard practice for safe walking surfaces
– design and construction guidelines and minimum maintenance criteria for
new and existing buildings and structures
• ASTM D2047
– Standard test method for static coefficient of friction of polished-coated
flooring surfaces as measured by the James Machine
• ASTM F1240
– Standard guide for ranking footwear bottom materials on contaminated
walkway surfaces according to slip resistance test results

Slip Resistance Testing
• Slip resistance tester is representative of conditions encountered during
walking when slip is most likely to occur.
• A normal walking step commences with heel strike and ends as the toe is
lifted from the ground. Slip is most likely to occur shortly after heel strike
and just before toe lift when half body weight is being applied.
• The Slip Resistance Tester measures the slip resistance between the sole of
the shoe/boot and the floor.
• Almost any floor surface can be used with the machine.

Contd.
• The machine incorporates a specially-designed control and data
acquisition system which provides the user with the coefficient of friction
for each test sample.
• This is achieved by close control of the forces involved including the speed
of motion provided by a variable speed motor. The controls provided and
the unique design of the controls circuitry ensure the appropriate forces
and speed of motion are maintained through the duration of the test.
• A computer which manages the data acquisition as well as providing
graphical representation of the test data and provides the coefficient of
friction for each sample tested.
• The software, which is included with each machine, has principal pre-set
tests (SATRA TM144 and EN 13287) which can be accessed through the
appropriate window.

Operating Conditions
• Surfaces - dry, wet, contaminated with oil, soap,
etc.
• Test a wide range of footwear on various surfaces
and simulated conditions, including dry and wet
clay tile as standard, carpet, wood and vinyl
flooring.
• Slip resistance test methods:
• Wet pendulum slip resistance test
• Dry floor friction slip resistance test
• Wet barefoot slip resistance test
• Oil wet ramp slip resistance test

Slip resistance test
• It tests the quality of footwear or just sole to slip on different surfaces.
• Even though the standard prescribes the test to be performed in room conditions,
various simulations can be made, using cold chamber or climate chamber as a mean to
condition test piece to desired temperature/humidity. Therefore we can compare the
behavior of footwear/sole in various conditions (very cold up to – 30 degrees Celsius or
very hot up to 120 degrees Celsius or humid (from 10 till 98% rH).
• Why is it important?: Slip resistance is one of the most important characteristics of
professional footwear. A sole with quality material and good design allows customer
comfort and safety walking on different surfaces. That is why test is also performed on
different surfaces (ceramic, steel) and different lubricants (water, glycerol, NaLs and
without lubricant at all).
• Standard: ISO20344:2004/Amd 1:2007, EN13287:2007
• Sample requirements: 3 samples of the same type of footwear need to be tested
according to the standard.

Results of Slip Resistance Test
• Four quantifies displayed on the graph, representing vertical load,
speed of table movement, horizontal load, and coefficient of friction.
These lines are easy to see and are captioned on screen for additional
clarity.
• The coefficient of friction is a ratio of the horizontal and vertical
forces and the slip resistance results are classified as follows:
Floor
friction
tester mean
value
AS/NZS
4586 Classi
fication
AS/NZS 4663
Notional* contribution of
the floor surface to the
risk of slipping when dry
≥ 0.40 F Moderate to very low
< 0.40 G High to very high

Considerations for Improving Slip Resistance
• New design
• Maintenance
– Contamination
– Cleaning
• The National Floor Safety Institute’s (NFSI) product certification program provides
independent testing for floor cleaners, finishes, coatings, etc. for which products that are
“NFSI Certified” are in compliance with the ANSI/NFSI B101 Standards
• Further guidance for cleaning and maintenance of flooring surfaces can be found in the
FeRFA Guide to Cleaning Resin Floors

Water Resistance Vs Water Proof

Is water-resistant the same as waterproof?
• They might sound similar, but there's a big difference.
• Beneath the leather, the difference in manufacturing and technology can be
considerable.
• Here key features of water-resistant and waterproof work boots and how they’re
made and tested, so you can feel confident and well informed about your foot
health and comfort going forward.
• WATER-RESISTANT FOOTWEAR Will resist the penetration of water to a certain
degree, but not entirely. Prolonged exposure to water will wet your feet
eventually.
• Suitable for which type of conditions?
• Light rain
• Drizzle
• Work environments that aren’t predominantly outdoors

Water Proof Footwear
• This means your footwear is impervious to water. No water can get into
your shoe and will give you protection against it for a significant period of
time.
• Suitable for which type of conditions?
• Puddles or deep water
• Anywhere the upper could be submerged
• Where prolonged exposure to water is common e.g. repairing damage after a flood,
digging trenches in the rain or continuous work on long wet grass.
• Suitable for which industry roles?
• Offshore Drilling or Welding
• Grounds Maintenance/Grounds Work
• Rail Track Engineering
• Construction

How does Water penetrates?
• When a shoe upper components are stitched together, the small holes
made by the needle and thread will allow water in once saturated. And
once water finds its way through these holes, the flexing action of the foot
when walking simply sucks more water in, and the result is inevitable: wet
feet.
• As a rule, unless it has a waterproof membrane (which is essentially a
plastic bag placed behind the material upper) a boot will never be
completely waterproof. It's this membrane, not the upper that keeps the
water out.
• To add to the waterproofing, the some shoe has a waterproof zip cover and
a full bellows tongue to combat further water and dirt ingress.
In a nutshell:
If footwear is water-resistant, it does not mean it will be waterproof.

• More serious thought is that wet feet are uncomfortable, which is
a distraction,
• And if you’re working in a role where hazards are common and safety
is vital, a lack of focus due to a lack of comfort can have very
serious consequences.

HOW ARE WATERPROOF BOOTS TESTED?
• Dynamic Footwear Water Penetration Test, also known as the water flex
test.
• The boots are put on a machine and submerged in a tank of water at a
specific angle, and the machine then makes the boot repeatedly flex for
80 minutes to show if any water seeps through and in. If it lets in less
than 3cm² then the footwear is considered waterproof.
• How do we check that shoe is water proof?
• On the inside of the boot’s tongue, you’ll see amongst other details a series of
letters. If you see the letters WR (circled red in the image) this means that the
boot is waterproof.
• Now, You may think:
• If it’s waterproof, why doesn’t it say WP for waterproof? WR suggests it’s water-resistant,
and you just told us that water resistant isn’t waterproof!
• Agreed, it is a little unclear, but some industry experts say this is because no shoe is ever
truly waterproof, because it’ll always have a big hole in it – the one you put your foot in.
• If WR means waterproof, what’s the code for water-resistant?, the answer is WRU. This
stands for ‘Water-resistant upper,’ and means that the shoe has been treated with a
substance to repel water to a certain level, but it won’t have a waterproof membrane
inside which means it won’t be fully waterproof.

footwear water resistance
• Resistance of footwear to water penetration when exposed to walking in
water
• Why is it important: dynamic test of water penetration is more realistic
than just statically putting shoe into water and waiting for the penetration.
During walk shoe upper creates a pump similar effect, which causes that
water can faster penetrate the shoe interior.
• This test provides the information if the footwear is enough water
resistance to enable customer to enjoy the walk.
• Standard: internal IRCUO standard according to footwear type and purpose
(army, protection, trekking…).
•

Code – Water Proof/ Resistant Footwear
• If your existing boots are water-resistant, it's very likely will have a
WRU code. Going forward, the new code for water resistance
is WPA (meaning water penetration and absorption) so this symbol
could start appearing on your boots in the coming years. The symbol
for waterproof boots remains unchanged.
• So, to clarify:
• WR = WATERPROOF
• WRU = WATER-RESISTANT
• WPA = WATER-RESISTANT (if tested to the new EN ISO 20345: 2022
standards)

Problems of WR shoes
• BREATHABILITY
• The big drawback with many waterproof boots is that often, they can make feet
hot and sweaty. The membrane makes the boot waterproof because it acts as a
wall between water and foot, but it also acts as a wall between your foot and
the air. That’s why a lot of people who wear waterproof garments complain that
while they're great at keeping water out, because the fabric isn't breathable, the
amount of sweat they generate means that they end up as soggy and damp as
they would have been if the rain had got in!
• Generally, it's the cheaper waterproof shoes that will have less breathable
membranes. V12 waterproof membranes are full of microscopic holes, each
one many times smaller than a water molecule, but large enough to allow
perspiration to escape. This way, you’ve got the perfect scenario: no moisture
coming in, plenty of moisture going out. See below.
• When feet suffer long-term water exposure, it can lead to a range of problems
such as:
• blistering
• swelling
• numbness and itching
• athlete's foot

Water Resistant Footwear
• When designing and manufacturing water-resistant footwear, it is
important to select materials which are both resistant to water penetration
and also non-wicking. Of course, this is only part of what is required to
produce footwear which does not allow the ingress of water.
• Two other key requirements are necessary,
• Firstly, the combination of the footwear materials by the attention to design details
(for instance, seam sealing and ensuring there are no wicking paths from the outer
construction to the shoe lining including from decorations or brand labels) and
• secondly, ensuring that manufacturing methods and associated quality controls are
in place to ensure consistency of manufacture.
• SATRA TM230 allows a final assessment to be made of the integrity of the
overall footwear design and construction against the ingress of water.

Dynamic Water Resistance Test
• The SATRA STM 505 Dynamic Water Resistance Tester flexes the footwear by
means of a pneumatically operated mechanical foot. The test is conducted in a
water bath with the footwear set to a defined water depth above the feather line.
• The flexing action represents a simplified walking action and is designed to
induce flexing stresses in the primary areas known to be weak points (principally
the joint region).
• Moreover, the cyclic uplifting of the toe produces realistic splashing of water over
parts of the forepart not immersed. The flexing rate aligns to walking speed, so
the immersion time relates to the time taken to cover the number of steps
specified. A test which allows sufficient immersion time is important, as it can
reveal any wicking effects which can provide a leak path for water ingress through
the upper material to the lining. It is also worthy of note that, due to the nature
of water transfer by wicking, water ingress through to the lining can occur above
the immersion level – for example, by wicking up laces.
• Measuring the mass gain -

STM 505
• The STM 505 is a twin station, tabletop mounted machine, which
allows each station to conduct completely independent tests.
Footwear samples are slipped over the pneumatically driven foot
mechanism, which has a hinged toe piece that flexes the footwear
at a pre-determined rate, as specified in the test method. The
mechanical foot has replaceable and adjustable sections to allow
different footwear sizes to be tested. Test methods define the
distance from the back of the heel piece to the pivot of the toe
flex section, depending on the shoe size being tested. Different
toe flexing sections can also be changed to suit the footwear size.
• When setting up a test, the test sample is clamped up against the
underside of the mechanical foot and the whole assembly is
lowered into the test tank. The water level is adjusted to a height
above the featherline, as deemed appropriate for the footwear
type or specification (or to a depth of 20mm in the case of the EN
ISO 20344 test).

Video Link
• https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vy3B3xmgYWE&embeds_referri
ng_euri=https%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2Fsearch%3Fq%3DShoe
%2Bwater%2Bresistance%2Btesting%26sca_esv%3Dc8032146a3e658
08%26sxsrf%3DACQVn0_qbFmsoSW1GOj-
syOSUjrVOleQ6Q%25&source_ve_path=MA&feature=emb_rel_end

Thickness measurement
• Thickness of leather is measured with the help of a dial micrometer type of
gauge whose presser foot is flat and exerts a pressure of 500 ± 2 g/cm2 on
the leather placed on a firm base.
• Dial Micrometer Gauge — The instrument shall be a dial micrometer
standing on a firm base. It shall be dead weight loaded and the load
applied shall be 393 ± 10 g (equivalent of 500 g/cm2). The presser foot
shall be flat, circular of a diameter 10.00 mm and its direction of
movement shall be normal to the face of the anvil. The anvil shall be flat,
horizontal surface of a cylinder of 10.00 mm, which shall be projected 3
mm from the surface of a flat circular platform of diameter 5 cm. The axes
of the presser foot, the platform and the projecting anvil shall coincide and
shall be the same as the direction of the movement of the foot.

MEASUREMENT OF AREA OF LEATHER
• Adopted from ASTM Designation: D 1515-60
• Calibrated planimeter may also be used.
• The test piece may be in the form in which it is purchased, such as a
single hide, side, skin or part thereof; or a single fabricated leather
article in the form in which it is purchased, such as a counter or a
gasket.
• Unit of area of leather : dm2

DETERMINATION OF APPARENT DENSITY
• Steel Press Knife — Steel press knife, inner wall of which shall be a right circular cylinder
of diameter 70 mm.
• A circular piece is cut from the leather;
• weighed and volume determined.
• Apparent density is calculated by dividing the mass of the test piece by its volume.
• TEST PIECES
• Punch out test pieces ( right circular ) with the steel press knife from the sample location
for physical tests.
• Measure the thickness of each test, at three points forming the corners of an equilateral
triangle and each situated approximately 2 cm from the centre of the grain surface of the
test piece. Take the arithmetic mean of the three results as the thickness of the test
piece. Measure the diameter of the test piece in two directions at right angles to one
another on the flesh surface. Take the arithmetic mean of the four results so obtained as
a diameter of the test piece.

Density Measurement
• Determine mass of the specimen using physical balance

Construction of physical Balance
• It consists of a horizontal beam resting at its middle point on a central
knife edge.
• Two similar pans are suspended on two more knife edges near each
end of the beam.
• A long pointer is attached to the middle of the beam.
• There are two leveling screws on the base to level the balance on the
table.
• The balance is used by an arresting knob in front of the balance.

Working
• After leveling the balance, the object is placed in the left hand pan
and the standard masses are placed in the right hand pan. The beam
is set free by turning the arresting knob. The pointer moves towards
the side of the smaller mass. Standard mass in the pan is adjusted to
find the mass of the object.

Calculations
• Calculate the apparent density of leather as follows:
where
W = weight in g of the test piece, and
V = volume of the test piece in cubic cm.
• The volume of the test piece shall be calculated from the following
expression:
where
d = dimeter of the (right circular cylinder) test piece in cm,
t = thickness of the test piece in cm.

Volume measurement of EVA granules
• Volume of EVA granules can be measured by displacement of
liquid.
• But EVA granules are lighter than water and it floats, hence
volume can ‘t be determined directly.
• Volume of EVA granules = displacement of liquid – volume of
cloth – volume of stone or heavy metal piece.

MEASUREMENT OF SHRINKAGE
TEMPERATURE
• Objective: To determination of shrinkage temperature of all types of
leather.
• Principle: If a strip of leather is slowly heated in water, a sudden shrinkage
occurs at a temperature which is characteristic of the tannage. This
temperature is called the Shrinkage Temperature. Nearly all leathers have a
shrinkage temperature above 60°C but there are a few ( chiefly chamois
leather ) which shrink at low temperatures.
• Apparatus for Wetting Test Piece — The apparatus consists of a desiccator
or other glass vessel which may be evacuated, a vacuum pump capable of
reducing the pressure in the vessel to less than 30 mm of mercury within
two minutes, and a test-tube in which the test piece can be immersed in 5
ml of water; the test-tube should be supported approximately upright in
the vessel during its evacuation.

Apparatus for Shrinkage Temperature
Measurement
• The apparatus is shown in Fig. 1 and has the following parts:
• a) A glass beaker ( A ) of volume 500 ml and internal diameter 70 ± 2 mm.
The beaker stands on the platform of a magnetic stirrer.
• b) A brass tube ( B ) of internal diameter 4 mm closed at the bottom. It
carries a rod C ( which keeps it in position in A ) and another rod D of 1.5
mm diameter which is passed through the lower hole in the test piece E.
The rod D is 30 ± 5 mm above the bottom of the beaker.
• c) A circular scale F of diameter 45 mm marked at the rim with divisions of
1 mm.
• d) A light pointer G. balanced in all positions and rigidly attached to the
pulley H, whose diameter is 10 mm.

A hook J made of copper wire. One end of J passes
through the hole at the top of the test piece. The other is
attached to the thread K, which passes over H, and
supports a brass weight L in the tube B. The pulley and
circular scale are attached rigidly to B, so changes of
length of the test piece cause rotation of the pointer over
the scale. The pulley moves in its bearing with little friction,
and the weight of L is 3 g more than that of J, so the tension in
the test piece is somewhat more than 3 g.
f) A thermometer M graduated in degrees, supported by a disc
N, which also supports B and the parts attached to B. The bulb
of M is close to the middle of the test piece. The hook J moves
freely through a hole in the disc without touching it. The
thermometer M used for temperature measurements, is one
that has been shown, by calibration against a standard
thermometer, to have no error exceeding 0.5°C at any point in
the temperature range 50 to 105°C.
g) An 80 to 100 watt electric heater, preferably of the type
having a glass or silica envelope ( not shown in Fig. 1 ). The
heater is supported in the beaker so that its lower end is not
more than 30 mm from the bottom and may be regulated to
give a rate of heating of approximately 2°C per minute when
the beaker contains 350 ml of water.
A — Glass beaker
B — Brass tube
C — Rod
D — Rod
E — Test piece
F — Circular scale
G — Pointer
H — Pulley
J — Hook
K — Thread
L — Weight
M — Thermometer
All dimensions in millimetres.

MEASUREMENT OF ABSORPTION OF WATER:
GRAVIMETRIC METHOD
• 1. SCOPE
• 1.1 The method is intended for use with all types of leather, to measure apparent water
absorption after 15 minutes, corrected water absorption in
• 24 hours and the percentage loss on soaking.
• 2. APPARATUS
• 2.1 Glass Vessel — A glass vessel having a flat circular bottom whose diameter exceeds 80 mm
and is less than 115 mm in length.
• 2.2 Press Knife — A press knife, the inner wall of which is a right circular cylinder of diameter 70
mm.
• 3. TEST PIECE
• Cut a right circular cylinder of diameter 70 mm from the sample location specified in 3.1 of LP : 0.
Before carrying out the test, keep the test piece in an atmosphere at a temperature of 27 ± 2°C
and relative humidity less than 10 percent for a period of at least 72 hours alternatively in a
vacuum desiccator at a pressure not exceeding 10 mm of mercury for 24 hours. Next, condition
each test piece in accordance with 5.1 of LP : 0 during the 48 hours preceding the test.

PROCEDURE
• 4.1 Weigh the test piece to the nearest 0.01 g without removing it from the
standard atmosphere. Call this weight W0. Place water of a weight
approximately 10 times that of the test piece in the glass jar and adjust its
temperature to 27 ± 2°C. Maintain the water at this temperature
throughout the test. At a known time place the test piece, flesh side
downwards, in the water and, if necessary, place a small weight of some
non-corrosive material on the grain surface to keep the whole of the test
piece immersed. Rest the test piece on small pieces of glass.
• 4.2 Fifteen minutes after the test piece was first immersed take it from the
water, blot it lightly with dry blotting paper, weigh the test piece as before,
return it to the water, and call this weight W1. Perform the procedure of
removing, blotting, weighing and re-immersing the test piece as rapidly as
is practicable.

• 4.3 Twenty-four hours after the test piece was first immersed remove it
again from the water and blot and weigh as before. Call its weight so
measured W2. 4.4 Allow the test piece to dry at room temperature for at
least 48 hours.
• Then for at least 72 hours keep it in an atmosphere of 27 ± 2°C and relative
humidity less than 10 percent or alternatively 24 hours in a vacuum
desiccator at a pres. ure not exceeding 10 mm of mercury. Then place it for
48 hours in the standard atmosphere for conditioning, and weigh again.
Call this weight W3.
• NOTE — During the periods of conditioning at relative humidity less than
10 percent the test piece may be stored in a desiccator. For this
conditioning ( but not for that at 65 percent relative humidity ) no device
for circulating the air need be used, but free access of the air to the faces
of the test piece should be allowed.

CALCULATION
• 5.1 Calculate the apparent percentage of water absorbed during immersion for 15
minutes as follows:
• Water absorption in 15 min ( Q,is), =
• percent by weight
• NOTE — The method of measuring Ql5 takes no account of any soluble material that may
be removed from the leather while it is immersed.
• 5.2 Calculate the corrected percentage of water absorbed during immersion for 24 hours
(free water) as follows:
• Free water (F) , percent bv weight =
• 5.3 Calculate the percentage loss on soaking as follows:
• Loss on soaking, percent by weight =
• NOTE — For interpretation of symbols W6, W1, W2 and W3, see 4.

Water vapour permeability
• Objective: To measure water vapour permeability of all types of leathers.
• Theory:
• 1. The leather test piece is clamped across the mouth of a bottle which contains a
solid desiccant, and is kept in a rapid current of air in a conditioned room. The air
within the bottle is circulated by keeping the
• desiccant in motion. The bottle is weighed periodically to determine the mass of
vapour transmitted through the leather and absorbed by the desiccant.
• 2. The water vapour permeability P given by the equation in 6.1 is the
permeability for a relative humidity difference of 65 percent between the faces of
the leather and at 27°C. For changes of humidity at constant temperature the
permeability of most leathers increases approximately in the same ratio as the
difference of relative humidity. At constant relativehumidity differences, the
permeability usually increases with temperature approximately in the same ratio
as the saturation vapour pressure of water.

APPARATUS
• 3.1 The apparatus consists of the following:
• a) Bottles of the approximate shape shown in Fig. 1 with screw tops cut away to leave a circular opening.
The neck of each bottle is ground to give a flat end surface which is perpendicular to the interior wall of the
neck, and the circular opening in the cap has the same diameter as the interior wall (each approximately 30
mm).
• b) A bottle holder in the shape of a wheel which is rotated at 75 ± 5 revolutions per minute by an electric
motor. The bottles are mounted on the wheel with their axes parallel to the axle (Fig. 2) and at a distance
67 mm from it.
• c) A fan mounted in front of the mouths of the bottles and consisting of three flat blades in planes that are
inclined at 120° to one another. The planes of the blades pass through the prolongation of the axle of the
wheel. The blades are of dimensions approximately 90 × 75 mm, and the 90 mm long side of each blade
nearest the mouths of the bottles passes them at a distance of not more than 15 mm. The fan is driven by
the motor at 1 400 ± 100 revolutions per minute. The apparatus is used in a conditioned room at a
temperature of 27 ± 2°C and relative humidity 65 ± 2 percent.
• d) Silica gel which has been freshly dried for at least 16 h in a ventilated oven at 125 ± 5°C and cooled for at
least 6 h in a closed bottle. The particle size of the gel is sufficiently large to prevent it passing a 2.00-mm IS
sieve.
• NOTE — The silica gel should be sieved before drying to remove small particles and dust. The drying
temperature of 125°C should not be greatly exceeded without reducing the absorptive capacity of the gel.
Ventilation of the oven by use of a fan is not necessary, but the oven shall not be sealed; it should permit
continuous exchange of the air within the oven with that outside. The gel should not be used while it is
much warmer than the leather test pieces, and since it cools slowly in a closed bottle, a long cooling time is
needed.
• e) A balance for weighing to the nearest milligram; means of measuring time; vernier calipers reading to 0.1
mm for measuring the internal diameters of the necks of the bottles.

TEST PIECE
• 4.1 From the leather to be tested cut out a square piece of side 50 mm. Unless
otherwise specified, buff the grain surface lightly, as follows:
• Place the piece grain upwards on table. Press a piece of grade 180 emery paper
against the leather, and draw it across the leather 10 times in various directions
under a load of about 200 g uniformly applied by hand pressure. From the piece
of leather so buffed, out circular test pieces whose diameters are equal to the
exterior diameters of the necks of the bottles (approximately 34 mm).
• 4.1.1 Many leathers have on the grain a surface coat which reduces the water
vapour permeability of the leather, but which has less effect after the coat has
been flexed or exposed to slight abrasive action. Unless otherwise specified, test
pieces should, therefore, be buffed lightly on the grain before test. The purpose
of this is not to remove the surface coat, but merely to scratch it slightly. The load
applied in doing this is not critical, and the value of 200 g is merely quoted as a
rough guide. Since the leather may be distorted by the buffing, the circular test
piece should not be cut until after the leather has been buffed.

PROCEDURE
• 5.1 Put into a bottle about half the amount of freshly dried silica gel that is required to fill it. Clamp the test piece,
grain inwards, across the mouth of the bottle. Put the bottle into its holder on the machine, and start the motor. Using
vernier calipers, measure the internal diameter of the neck of a second bottle to the nearest tenth of a millimetre in
each of two directions at right angles. Calculate the mean diameter d in millimetres.
• If it is necessary to seal the junction between the test piece and the neck of the bottle warm the second bottle and
apply a thin layer of beeswax to the flat end surface of the neck. After the machine has been running for more than
16 h and less than 24 h, stop the motor, and remove the first bottle. Put into the second bottle about half the amount
of freshly dried silica gel that is needed to fill it, and at once remove the test piece from the first bottle and clamp it,
grain inwards, across the mouth of the second bottle. With as little delay as possible, weigh the second bottle with the
test piece and silica gel, and not the time at which the weighing is made. Put the bottle into its holder on the machine,
and start the motor. After the machine has run for not less than 7 h and not more than 16 h, stop the motor, remove
the bottle and weigh it. Note the time at which the weighing is made.
• NOTE 1 — For most light leather test pieces there is no need to seal the junction between test piece and bottle with
beeswax because the test piece is sufficiently well clamped if the lid is screwed down firmly, but leathers whose
thicknesses exceed 3 mm are often stiff and should be sealed with beeswax as described. Furthermore, even test
pieces of light leathers should be sealed with beeswax if their permeability is low or if they have an embossed grain,
since it is not possible to assume that leaks are completely absent at the edges of test pieces which are merely
clamped. For this reason, if a test piece tested without sealing gives a value of P of less than 5 mg.cm- 2 h- 1 , the
determination should be repeated with the rim sealed with beeswax as described, and the value so obtained should
be taken as the value for the test piece. Except with specially stiff or impermeable leathers, it is not necessary to seal
the junction the test piece makes with the neck of the first bottle ( see 5.1 ), because the preliminary running with this
bottle serves merely to condition the test piece to equilibrium with the steady-state flow of vapour.
• NOTE 2 — If the leather is such that beeswax has been applied to the neck of the second bottle, warm the bottle in an
oven at 50°C before introducing the silica gel and clamping on the leather.

CALCULATION
• 6.1 Calculate the water vapour permeability (P) from the following
equation:
• Water vapour permeability, mg/cm2/h =
where
m = gain in weight in g between first and second weighings
of the bottle,
d = mean internal diameter in mm of the neck of the second bottle,
and
t = time in minutes.

Upper material Test
• Flex resistance – ISO17694:2016
• Color fastness test - ISO 105 -
B02:2014
• Rub fastness test - ISO 17700:2019
• Tensile strength test - ISO
3376:2011, 17706:2003
• Abrasion Test - ISO 17704:2004
• Stitching strength and quality test-
ISO17697:2003
• Softness test - ISO 17235:2015
• Water Resistance Test –
ISO17702:2003
Thermal Test - ISO 17705:2003
Density Test – BS EN ISO 2420:2017
Odor test - ISO105
Deformability Test – ISO 17695:2004
Toe load
Functional strap / buckle attachment –
ISO 24263
Attachment strength of eyelets

Outsole material Test
• Density Test - BS-EN ISO- 2420:2017
• Surface coating test - ISO 17186:2011
• Thickness test - ISO 2589-2016
• Water absorption test - ISO 105-E07:2010, ISO 15700:1999
• Shelf life
• Hardness Test

Footwear Accessories
• Shoe lace strength and durability – ISO 22774:2004
• Zipper strength test – ASTM 02062, EN 16732
• Metal corrosion resistance Test
• Thread Strength Test - ASTM 02256
• Shank Test – ISO 18896
• Corrosion resistance – ISO22775:2004

Chemical Tests
• With the development of European safety standards, chemical tests
have become the obligatory technical for export of footwear.
Currently, tests are usually required for
• Banned azo dyes
• Pentachlorophennol
• Formaldehyde
• Chromium
• Total Cadmium
• Nickel release
• Heavy metal

Different Machines used in Testing and.pdf

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