The document discusses the traditional Rajasthani craft of Gota Patti, which involves intricate gold and silver lace embroidery on fabrics, historically worn by royalty. It outlines the materials, types of gota, and the detailed process of creating Gota Patti designs, connecting its rich history to contemporary applications in fashion. The author expresses a desire to modernize the craft by incorporating European architectural motifs into their collection.

1. Indian Wear
Project
Priyanshi Arora

2. Gota Patti
The royalty of Rajasthan
This presentation is about the craft
of Rajasthan Gota Patti. This is the
craft I would like to work on for my
Indian Wear project. The craft is
very old and has been going on from
the centuries in Rajasthan.

3. What ?

4. Gota- The ribbon
● A gold and silver lace from lucknow. The metallic
lace or ribbon is generally made up of metal
coated weft yarn, while the warp yarn is made of
fiber like cotton, polyester in ribbon.
● Earlier these metal coated weft were used to be
made of original gold and silver.
● Gota ribbons are available in different colors as
well.
● The ribbons are woven on Satin and Twill weave.
● The Gota available these days is known as “ plastic
Gota”. It is highly durable as is its made of
polyester yarns.

5. Types of gota that are used at Nyla village jaipur
1. Seekhi
2. Phool (flower)
3. Bijiya
4. Mothda
5. Bakhandi
6. Lappa
Other Gotas that can be found around India are: Shikhiya
Gota, Chaumasa, Panchmasa, Athmasa, Lappa, Thappa,
Gokhru, Lehru Gotta, Nakshi, Bijbel, Bijiya, Chiru, Kiran,
Chatai, Chip
Types of Gotas

6. Patti- The leaf
Patti is the local name of a leaf. The leafs are
the most important part of motifs which are
used to create a motif and then a pattern. All
the work is done around a leaf.
The gota ribbons are cut into these leaves
and the thread work is done around it.

7. Royal Embroidery
If we look into the history we will find Gota Patti as
the royal craft of Rajasthan. The embroidery was
done on the garments of kings and Queens.
Although it is still unsure where the craft came from
and how it reached India. Apart from Jaipur, traces
of the work was found cities like Surat and Ajmer.
Royal Garments of Gota Patti can still be found in
the museums of City Palace, Jaipur

8. Embroidery
It is type of Indian embroidery originated in
Rajasthan worn by the royalties in the earlier days.
The embroidery is mostly seen in Indian ethnic
wear especially the bridal wear. This evergreen
craft is gaining its popularity day by day and marks
itself in the trends of India.

9. Applique Work
The applique work is used as a technique of surface
ornamentation of the fabric. Hence the name,
Lappe -Ka_kaam
The Gota ribbons are cut into various shapes and
placed on the fabric and the edges are sewn to fix it
with the zari threads.
The work can be seen mainly on Chiffon, Georgette,
Velvet and Silk fabrics. These days synthetic fabrics
are also used. The common colors include Red,
Orange, Pink, Magenta, Maroon and Yellow.

10. Motif are generally inspired by nature, human
figures, animals.
The motifs that remains in trends are
structured into, buta, buties, shapes like flower
pot, Keri, and champak flower.
These motifs are then stitched to the base
fabric by chain stitch and hemming
Some other motifs are inspired from
architecture like temples and taj mahal.
Motif Language

11. When?

12. The Mughal Connection
Gota Patti can be connected with the Mughals.
Similar embroidery Zardozi which is also done
with the Zari was brought by the Mughals in the
16th Century to India.
Some of the gota patti motifs can be found alike
to that of Zardozi.
It is also believed Jodha Bai (Wife of great
Mughal emperor Akbar) used to wear Gota
embroidery on her garments.

13. Where?

14. India
The Gota ribbon production can be found in
Lucknow, Rajasthan, Surat etc.
Nyla Village at jaipur is district of Rajasthan is a
cluster area where we can thousands find
specialized suppliers and service providers the
artisans of this embroidery.
Other districts of Rajasthan include Kota,
Bikaner, Ajmer and Udaipur.

15. How?

16. Materials Required
Wooden frame: The Gota Patti work is done on
Wooden or metallic Frame also known as adda
over which base fabric is drag tightly to provide
uniform tension and that prevents pattern
distortion. Needle: Awe or ari needle used for the
process. it is type of crochet needle. Base Fabric :
The light weight fabric used for this process like
Chiffon, Georgette, silk, satin etc. Other materials:
Scissors, Wooden Hammer, Iron tool known as
Pitan Kutan, beads, stones, crystals, tracing Paper,
Chalk Powder.

17. The Process
Gota Embroidery is a pain and time taking
process.
Process Fabric selection Tracing the design on
paper Setting fabric on the wooden frame
Making a design on base fabric Attachment of
Gota Patti by back stitch, Compacting the
design with wooden hammer Finishing the
fabric

18. Fabric selection
Gota results best on the light fabrics like
chiffon, Georgette, Tussar silks, crapes and
satin.
The selection of fabric also depends on the
trends in the market

19. Tracing the design on paper
A design is created on the paper using the
motifs according to the client’s choice.
The design is usually made on the tracing
paper with the help of carbon paper so it is
easy to trace on the fabric

20. Setting fabric on wooden frame
The edges of the fabric specially the hard
sides are attached to the wooden frame
called ” Adda”. This step is necessary to be
done as it holds onto the fabric which makes
it easier do the embroidery

21. Making design on base fabric
The next step is to trace this design to the
fabric. The process is known as “Chapayi”
The design is traced on the fabric with the
help of tracing paper with the holes.
Chalk powder paste is rubbed over the
tracing paper which leaves in imprint of
the desired pattern on the fabric.

23. Sticking the
patties
The patties are stuck on the
fabric in the design. This is
done with the help of mild
glue.

24. Attachment of the patties with stitches
After the patties are glued to the fabric the next step is
known as “takaayi”. It is the process of stitching of leaves
on the base fabric to create the earlier traced design.
To enhance the beauty of these designs outlines are made
from threads like silk, cotton and metal
Stitching is known as “silaayi” the additions sequences,
buttons, beads are attached to it.

25. Compacting the design with wooden hammer
Completing the design and stiched of zari
around it, the wooden hammer is patted on
the design to fix the design and assuring it is
done properly.

26. Finishing
Final finishing is done which involves
checking the whole work again.
The mistakes are identified and rectified to
create a breathtaking piece.

27. Craft then and now
THEN
Gota was woven using gold and silver threads
Weaving by manual machines
It was a hobby of women
Base fabric was pure
Red, Orange, Green colour base fabric
Only royal families people use to wear Gota work
dresses
Only the Gota of silver and Golden colour was
used
NOW
Gota is woven using polyester coloured threads
Weaving using electric machines
Commercial activity by both men and women
The base fabric not necessarily pure (synthetic)
Every color is used as per the market demand
Now every person Gota work dresses
To make it more attractive coloured fabrics are
used on gota

28. Who?

29. Some known designers
Anita Dongre
Abhinav Mishra
Taniya O’Connar
Swati Ubroi
Nidhi Tholia
Hansa Khatwani

30. Anita Dongre

31. Abhinav
Mishra

32. Taniya
O’Connar

33. Swati Ubroi

34. Nidhi Tholia

35. Contemporisation of craft
The craft is contemporised to the suits, cushion
covers, jewellery, kurtas koties men’s jackets

36. Ideas and
interests

37. Long back I did a research for this craft
for some other assignment. I always
wanted to work on this craft as a part
of collection. But the authentic and
traditional motifs like flowers are not
my place of interest.
Motifs like Taj and Temple which are
inspired by the architecture catched my
attention in a whole new way becoming
my idea of inspiration.
I want to use European architecture as
my inspiration here mixing them with
the geometrical shapes to
contemporize the motifs of the craft.

38. Some of the pictures of
European things that caught
my attention