Crude pouches, as illustrated in Egyptian hieroglyphs, were made of leaves or animal hide and worn b...

1. Handbags through the Ages - InfoBarrel
Crude pouches, as illustrated in Egyptian hieroglyphs, were made of leaves or animal hide and worn
by men. However, it wasn't until the Fourteenth Century that handbags were referred to in
literature. These earliest bags were called 'pockets' and were hung on a girdle around the waist and
used mainly to carry flints or coins.
They began to develop as a status symbol and were embroidered or be-jewelled. The more elaborate
the pouch, the richer the person!
Sixteenth Century Styles
In the Sixteenth Century bags became purely practical and were made from common materials such
as leather or cloth. A drawstring at the top was added to keep contents safe.
During this time large cloth bags were made and these were particularly suitable for travellers to
carry across the body.
Seventeenth Century Styles
By the beginning of the next century different styles of bags were being made as both men and
women began to carry them. More intricate purses were developed in the hope of being fashionable.
As a result of this upsurge in interest, young girls were taught embroidery skills and, so, bags
became excellent examples of fine needlecraft.
At this time, purses were commonly carried under a woman's skirt. But with the reduction in the
amount of underwear a woman wore it became unsuitable for the purse to be worn unseen as this
would have spoilt the look of the closely fitting garment. So a new style of bag called a reticule was
developed. This reticule was carried by the lady and, therefore, it was visible. And so began the
handbag as a fashionable item.
Women began to choose a different bag for every occasion and so the problem arose about the best
way to carry these bags that would typically contain face powder, a fan, scent, visiting cards and,
perhaps, smelling salts.
Nineteenth Century Styles
By the Nineteenth Century the word 'handbag' was adopted and all manner of handbags emerged.
There were mesh bags, cut-steel and velvet bags with steel beads embroidered on to velvet,
sometimes in a heraldic style. Chatelaine bags were introduced and these were dangled from a belt
worn at the waist. Their hook fastening usually found at the apex of a chain handle could easily
identify them.
Also common were Miser's purses that were hand- knitted and used for coins. Each end had a metal
slider. The purse was used by both men, who slung it over a belt, ?and by women who carried it in a
pocket or a larger bag.
?Protocol in the Victorian Era also demanded that a woman in mourning wore black.?Therefore their

2. accessories also were black. So black bags, sometimes covered in black beads, were used.
Twentieth Century Styles
The Twentieth Century became increasingly industrialized and commercially produced bags became
common. Hand-held luggage for men became the focus for intricate fasteners, internal
compartments and locks. Companies vied for attention as women began to wear more than one
chatelaine at a time! There became a huge variety in the sizes of bags, now known as Edwardian
during Edward VII reign [1901-1910]
Bags could now be metal framed, made of leather, be in the shape of an oblong purse, be heavily
embossed, have needlepoint scenes of cottages or gardens, be crocheted or made of lace. All types
of imagination or social influences could spark an idea for the handbag with a difference.
Metal finger-ring purses were made of silver, gold or silver plate. The woman's finger would fit into
the ring to enable her to carry this small metal purse.
Art Deco Style
By the 1920's the flapper embraced the Art Deco style and the flattened, streamlined look saw the
birth of the clutch bag. The waistless dresses and chic, bobbed hairstyles demanded less feminine
bags. The oblong clutch bag was made of cloth or leather and complemented the 'look' of the period.
Art Deco evening bags took on a variety of geometric shapes. But it was the quality of the clasp that
gave value to the bag. Semi-precious stones in contrasting colours were used to enhance the
stylishness of the bag.The flattened bag was often embellished with enamel, giving a glassy,
translucent finish.
Vanity cases were also popularized in this Art Deco period. previously, women had used make-up
sparingly but now in this post World War One period, women were becoming more overt in their
appearance. These tasselled vanity cases on long silk cords contained powder puff, lipstick holder
and mirror.
Wartime Styles
The fashion extravaganza ended abruptly with the outbreak of World War II. Supplies were short
and the glamorous, expensive trends were curbed. Now materials were needed for more important
reasons. Instead of metal frames, zips, leather and mirrors, manufacturers used plastic and wood.
Many women made their own bags or re-used old ones. Some used twine-like cord to make envelope
or fan-shaped bags or used material from plastic tiles, fabric remnants or draperies.?
The relief after the war was immense and the post-war period saw optimism and prosperity in ladies'
fashions, such as Dior's 'New Look'. It was a time for the emergence of accessories including
costume jewellery, gloves and shoes. The handbag was back!
1950's Styles
By the 1950's daytime bags were fashionable. Basket bags and box bags were popular. They were
made in both plastic and metal and were available in many colours, shapes and styles. Bags now had
compartments for lipstick, money and cigarettes. Although needlework was a less popular pastime,
needlework bags continued to be manufactured. Sleek elegance stood alongside modern tapestry or

3. vinyl, and novelty bags shaped like dolls or poodles or even telephones hit the fashion scene.
Expensive, exotic skins, like crocodile, alligator or lizard became available. Bags from the fashion
houses of Gucci, Chanel, Hermes and Dior became the must-haves of the wealthy.
1960's Styles
Soon a new style emerged, the grown-up look being overtaken in favour of the vibrancy of youth.
The King's Road and Carnaby Street and the name of Mary Quant were at the forefront of
psychedelic fashion. Then, that too was taken over by the more natural handmade products of the
hippie era. Beads replaced plastic and ?cloth bags had ?fringed bottoms. No sooner had one style
emerged then another followed it. The customer was overwhelmed with choice.
1970's Styles
Pop Art of the 70's did not exclude the Hippie look but developed different influences. Bags became
a profusion of bright coloured, abstract patterns and disembodied lips, a theme that Prada revived in
their millennium clothing collection.
Also embossed leather, flashy glam glitter and the denim 'jeans look' were popular. Then fashion
designers developed a starker style of clothing in the minimalist masculine-style trouser suit and, of
course, bags reflected this image with the return of the clutch bag.
1980's Styles
Moving on a decade, the 'more is more' mentality adopted the logo-patterned, large travel bags of
Louis Vuitton or the style revived by Dior from its 1950's collection. Now lots of fake bags were on
the market because the real ones were prohibitively expensive. Real fake is very difficult to check
but the inside of the bag should be leather or suede and the stitching on the straps and trims should
not be unravelling.
Future Collectables
If looking for a future collectable that will increase in value then it has to be a one-off eccentric bag
that is totally impractical or a logo bag that has been designed by a new, young designer. Prada and
Fendi are already highly sought designs. Anya Hindmarsh reflects the vogue for glitzy beads and
sequins.?
Expensive bags today mean they are higher quality and there are fewer of them made.
Therefore, fewer will survive and those remaining will be tomorrow's valued collectable treasure!
?

4. Credit: Terrie Plowman