A2 product design: coursework without hand drawn parts

LORD WANDSWORTH COLLEGE
58433
OLIVER DERHAM 4017
YEAR 2013
PRODUCT DESIGN 9RM04

Research and AnalysisDesign Brief:
Solution: My solution is to create some sort of floating shelf, which is all self-contained. The aim is to get all the
cables in the interior of the product and if possible not have a need for a mains connection, although depending
on resources it may have to, but one cable for multiple items is still a huge improvement. On top of this I
understand people’s individual need for a unique product or a product to fit into an existing environment.
Therefore, I plan to follow a similar route to IKEA in the fact that my product could have interchangeable parts so
that various colour schemes and layouts can be achieved or a different type of wood, for example.
Situation:
In our modern day lifestyle we all are likely to find ourselves in front desk. This is because 21st century
technology has created a more efficient workspace where computers are at the hub. In addition to computers,
there are a number of peripherals, such as speakers, that enable to workspace to double up as a sort of media
centre.
Problems start when these technologies take over the workspace. This can create a lot of clutter from wires
becoming entangled and pulling out involuntarily to paperwork and books being strewn about in random places.
It can also cause problems with drinks tipping over when not sitting correctly on the desk. This therefore creates
a hazard with the potential for liquids to react with the electricity in the wiring.
Problems:
• Loose cables and wiring can cause a hazard on the workspace
• No space in the workspace to actually do any work or just to chill as having cables and wiring
everywhere adds to the mess that is already there from papers
• Area can be messy, “an untidy space is an untidy mind”
• As new technology is developed the number of peripherals can increase causing space to be used
up permanently forcing people to work in an isolated area
• There are times where people need to relax and get out of the working mindset. Usually people
listen to music through speakers or watch TV or play video games. If this was attempted in the
workspace, again, the area would be further cluttered and rendered unusable
• When people work, they tend to do so at a desk. This can be a hefty option that is hard to install in
the first place due to weight and size when bought
• Affordable desks tend to be boring cubic shapes
Design Requirements:
• Remove the problem of tangled cables
• Keep everything out of the way of the workspace
• Create an environment suitable for both working and relaxing
• Be a potential media centre/hub
• Be self contained
• must be able to be packaged as a flat pack kit
• Have interchangeable parts (like IKEA) to give a personalised product
• Must come flat packed to reduce costs to the user from pre assembly and also allow parts to be
interchanged to the user’s preference
• Must be able to fit in with existing environments
• Installation must be fairly easy, i.e. wall mounted support arms must stay on the wall and not
damage or weaken the wall structure behind or box joints must fit properly
• Must be able to hold the weight of at least 2 shelves of books and also a few peripherals (About 10
- 15kg)
• Must have a simple method of operating any electrical or mechanical systems
• Screen and speaker systems must be compatible with different computer operating systems
Exampleofanuntidywork
spacewithcablesandwiring
intheway

Product AnalysisBookArc Pro
FUNCTION:
THE FUNCTION OF THE BOOKARC PRO IS TO KEEP THE LOOSE WIRES
ASSOCIATED WITH THE MACBOOK PRO OUT OF THE WAY OF NOT ONLY
THE MACHINE, BUT ALSO THE DESKTOP SO THAT THE WORKSPACE IS
CLEAR FOR OTHER USES. ANOTHER MAJOR FUNCTION IS TO KEEP THE
MACHINE OUT OF THE WAY. THEREFORE BY KEEPING IT IN AN UPRIGHT
VERTICAL POSITION IT CAN BE SLOTTED NEXT TO AN EXTERNAL DISPLAY
RATHER THAN FLAT N THE MIDDLE OF THE DESK. IN DOING THIS IT ALSO
INCREASES THE MACBOOK PRO’S HEAT DISSIPATION EFFICIENCY.
PERFORMANCE:
✴ IT IS WEIGHTED JUST RIGHT SO THAT IT IS NOT TOO CUMBERSOME, YET
STILL ABLE TO PROVIDE A FIRM BASE FOR THE MACBOOK PRO TO SIT IN
✴ IT HAS A SILICONE HOLDER, THAT CAN BE CHANGED TO SUIT ANY
SIZED MODEL OF MACBOOK PRO. IT ALSO PREVENTS ANY AESTHETIC
DAMAGE TO THE DEVICE.
✴ 2 SILICONE HOOKS SIT UNDERNEATH TO ALLOW MULTIPLE CABLES TO
BE THREADED THROUGH. THE SILICON IS NOT SOLID SO ALSO ALLOWS
FOR SOME GIVE TO FIT THE AMOUNT OF CABLES NECESSARY.
✴ THE ERGONOMIC CURVED SHAPE COUPLED WITH THE SLIGHT
THICKNESS OF ALUMINIUM PROVIDES A STABLE STRUCTURE TO NOT
TOPPLE OVER AND ALSO TAKE THE WEIGHT OF THE MACBOOK PRO
✴ SILICON FEET AT EACH CORNER STOP IT FROM SLIDING ACROSS DESKS
AND ALSO STOP IT FROM DAMAGING THE DESK
✴ THE THICKNESS MAKES IT DURABLE IN TERMS OF BENDING
✴ THE ANODISED ALUMINIUM MATERIAL MAKES IT DURABLE FROM
WEAR AND BIOLOGICAL DEGRADATION. IT ALSO KEEPS THE AESTHETIC
LOOK SIMILAR TO THE ANODISED ALUMIUM COATING OF THE MACBOOK
PRO. THIS ALSO MAKES IT EASY TO WIPE CLEAN IF EVER NECESSARY
MARKET:
✴ THIS PRODUCT IS ONE IN A LINE OF UNIQUE TWELVESOUTH PRODUCT
SPECIFICALLY DESIGNED FOR APPLE USERS. THEREFORE ONLY
OWNERS OF THE MACBOOK PRO CAN USE IT. HOWEVER THIS GIVES IT
A UNIQUE FEEL FOR THE OWNER MAKING IT A STAND OUT PRODUCT
✴ ANYONE OF AGE THAT OWNS A MACBOOK PRO CAN USE IT, NO
MATTER WHAT LINE OF WORK THEY ARE IN
✴ DUE TO SPECIALISED CLIENTAL THE BOOKARC PRO SELLS AT
AROUND £40.
AESTHETICS/CHARACTERISTICS:
✴ THE ARC SHAPE HELPS WITH GIVING A SIMPLE NAME. THE
SIMPLICITY OF THE PRODUCT ALSO HELPS WITH THE
MANUFACTURING PROCESS AS IT ALLOWS THE METAL
SECTION TO BE MASS PRODUCED USING FORMER JIGS. THE
SILICON CAN ALSO BE REPEATEDLY INJECTION MOLDED.
✴ ANODISED ALUMINIUM KEEPS WITH THE DESIGN OF THE
MACBOOK PRO
✴ AESTHETICALLY PLEASING TO LOOK AT
QUALITY STANDARDS:
✴ THE SHADE OF THE ALUMINIUM MUST BE SIMILAR TO THAT OF THE
MACBOOK PRO (TESTED BY DIGITAL DETECTOR
✴ THERE MUST BE NO DENTS
✴ THE SILICON MUST BE FREE OF ANY FLASH
✴ THE WEIGHT MUST BE SUITABLE TO NOT BE CUMBERSOME, BUT STILL
WEIGHTY ENOUGH TO PREVENT THE WHOLE PRODUCT FALLING
SIDEWAYS.
✴ THE ALUMINIUM MUST NOT CORRODE
✴ ALL DIMENSIONS MUST BE CHECKED TO WITHIN THE SET LIMITS
✴ 10 OF EVERY BATCH OF 100 SHOULD BE TESTED
SAFETY:
✴ MUST NOT BE TOO HEAVY TO CAUSE INJURY WHILST MOVING
IT AROUND
✴ EDGES MUST BE SMOOTH AND ROUNDED. THIS COULD HAVE
BEEN DONE BY SANDBLASTING IT
MATERIALS:
✴ MAIN BODY- THE MAIN BODY IS MADE FROM ANODISED
ALUMINIUM. THIS IS THEN LIKELY TO HAVE BEEN FORMED
ON EITHER A MACHINE PRESS OR ON STANDARD ROLLERS
✴ INSERTS- THE INSERTS ARE MADE FROM SILICON. THESE
ARE MADE USING AN INJECTION MOULDING PROCESS.
✴ FEET- THESE ARE ALSO MADE FROM SILICON, WHICH HAS
BEEN INJECTION MOULDED
✴ HOOKS- AGAIN THESE ARE SILICON SO HAVE BEEN
INJECTION MOULDED
LEVELS OF PRODUCTION:
✴ DUE TO THE SIMPLICITY OF THE PRODUCT AND THE FACT IT HAS
VERY FEW COMPONENTS IT IS MASS PRODUCED. THIS IS ALSO
DUE TO THE FACT THAT THE SILICON PARTS CAN BE MADE SO
QUICKLY AND CHEAPLY. THE ALUMINIUM HOWEVER TAKES
MORE TIME TO PREPARE. THE ANODISING PROCESS CAN BE
QUITE COSTLY DUE TO THE AMOUNT ELECTRICITY INVOLVED.
THIS CONTRIBUTES TO THE OVERALL PRICE OF THE PRODUCT,
BUT AS IT CAN BE DONE ON A LARGE SCALE IS NOT A HUGE
ISSUE ON COSTS AT THE END. THE ALUMINIUM COULD
ACTUALLY BE BATCH AS THE SHADE OF ALUMINIUM CAN VARY
SLIGHTLY, WHICH IS WHY DETECTORS ARE USED TO MAKE
SURE THEY ARE WITHIN THE SET LIMITS
HEALTH AND SAFETY:
✴ RELEVANT RISK ASSESSMENTS FOR THE
MANUFACTURING PROCESSES MUST BE CARRIED OUT BY
THE EMPLOYER. PARTICULARLY FOR THIS PRODUCT,
COSHH IS VERY IMPORTANT DUE TO THE CHEMICAL AND
HIGH VOLTAGE IN THE ANODISING PROCESS AND ALSO THE
MANUFACTURING OF NOT ONLY MATERIALS BUT ALSO THE
WORKPLACE ENVIRONMENT.
✴ EMPLOYERS MUST CARRY OUT DUE DILIGENCE TO ENSURE
THAT THEIR EMPLOYEES ARE TRAINED PROPERLY IN THEIR
JOB, TO ENSURE SAFETY AND EFFICIENCY
✴ THE MANUFACTURER MUST OBSERVE THE OCCUPATIONAL
HEALTH AND SAFETY ACT OF 1970 (IN THE UNITED STATES)
AS THE PRODUCT IS MANUFACTURED IN AMERICA.
✴ PRODUCTION OF THE PRODUCT MUST FOLLOW THE
RELEVANT ISO STANDARDS.
✴ FOR SHIPPING INTERNATIONALLY, THE PRODUCT MUST
ALSO CONFORM TO THE RELEVANT STANDARDS, FOR
EXAMPLE IN THE EUROPE THE CE MARK IS REQUIRED

Product AnalysisBookArc Pro
Stages of Production
✴THE METAL:
✴ ELECTROLYSIS -
THE ALUMINIUM IS FIRST EXTRACTED BY THE SOURCE COMPANY BY THE
METHOD OF ELECTROLYSIS. UNLIKE MOST OTHER METALS IT CAN NOT
BE OBTAINED THROUGH THE REDUCTION OF ITS OXIDE AS IT IS TOO
REACTIVE. THE OXIDE COMES FROM MINING THE MINERAL BAUXITE (ITS
ORE). IN ORDER FOR IT TO BE AFFECTED BY THE PROCESS OF
ELECTROLYSIS IT HAS TO BE MADE MOLTEN TO ALLOW THE ELECTRON
TO FLOW FREELY BETWEEN THE ANODE AND CATHODE. THEREFORE
CRYOLITE IS ADDED TO LOWER THE BAUXITE’S MELTING POINT AND
ALSO TO HELP DISSOLVE IT FULLY. A DC CURRENT IS THEN PASSED THE
MOLTEN BAUXITE. THIS CAUSES ALUMINIUM TO FORM AT THE
NEGATIVELY CHARGED CATHODE AND OXYGEN TO FORM AT THE
POSITIVE ANODE. AS OXYGEN IS THE LIGHTEST AND ALUMINIUM THE
HEAVIEST, THE OXYGEN RISES TO THE TOP OF THE MACHINE AND
ALUMINIUM SINKS TO THE BOTTOM, WHILST THE CONSTANT FEED OF
BAUXITE REMAINS FAIRLY CENTRAL. AS THE MOLTEN ALUMINIUM
FORMS IT IS TAPPED OFF INTO MOULDS, THAT ALLOW THE ALUMINIUM
TO BE SOLD TO EXTERNAL COMPANIES.
✴FORMING-
WHEN TWELVE SOUTH RECEIVES THE ALUMINIUM BARS, THEY MELT
THEM DOWN INTO A FURNACE. THE MOLTEN METAL IS THEN POURED
INTO ANOTHER MOULD TO PRODUCE THE RIGHT SIZED MATERIAL TO
WORK WITH. ONCE COOL, EACH PRODUCT IS THEN PUT UNDER THE
PUNCH PRESS, WHERE THE DIE CUTS OUT THE RELEVANT SLOTS AND
GROOVES. THE PRODUCT IS THEN SAND BLASTED TO REMOVE ANY
ROUGH EDGES OR FLASHES. IT IS THEN PLACED UNDER ANOTHER
PRESS. THIS PRESS BENDS THE PRODUCT INTO THE CRESCENT SHAPE. IT
IS THEN READY TO BE FINISHED
✴ANODISING-
THIS IS A PROCESS USED TO INCREASE THE THICKNESS OF THE
NATURAL OXIDE LAYER OF THE ALUMINIUM. BY DOING THIS IT GIVES THE
ALUMINIUM AN INCREASED RESISTANCE TO CORROSION AND WEAR.
THIS IS USUALLY USED TO PREVENT GALLING OF PARTS WITH THREADS.
FOR THIS PRODUCT HARD ANODISATION HAS BEEN USED. THIS IS
WHERE THE PART IS DIPPED IN AN ELECTRICALLY CONDUCTIVE
SOLUTION CALLED AN ELECTROLYTE (USUALLY AN ACID) AND A
CURRENT IS THEN PASSED THOROUGH IT. THE ELECTRICAL CURRENT
FLOWS THROUGH THE ELECTROLYTE AND INTO THE METAL. AS IT
LEAVES THE METAL THE OXIDE LAYER BUILDS UP. IT HAS NOW BEEN
HARD ANODISED AND CAN EITHER BE LEFT AS A MATTE FINISH OR HAVE
COLOURED PIGMENT ADDED, JUST LIKE THE 2012 IPOD TOUCH.
Advantages Disadvantages
Pure aluminium is formed
At the anode, oxygen is formed. This causes a
problem as the high temperature of the the
electrolysis cell causes the carbon electrodes
to oxidise and burn. This burns them away
forming toxic gases, such as carbon monoxide
and carbon dioxide. This means that the
electrodes have to be replaced regularly and
the waste gases dealt with safely
Is a successful extraction method of aluminium
It is very costly, about 6 times more than the
extraction process of iron due to the vast
amount of electricity needed throughout the
process
✴THE SILICON PARTS:
✴INJECTION MOULDING -
SILICON PELLETS ARE FED INTO A HOPPER AT THE TOP OF THE INJECTION
MOULDING MACHINE. A HEATING ELEMENT MELTS THESE DOWN UNTIL LIQUID
IN VISCOSITY. THIS THEN FLOWS AROUND AN ARCHEMEDES SCREW. THE
SCREW IS THEN RAMMED FORWARD INTO THE MOULD THROUGH A HYDRAULIC
RAM ATTACHED TO THE REAR OF THE SCREW. A COOLING LIQUID USUALLY
FLOWS THROUGH THE MOULD ITSELF IN ORDER TO INCREASE THE SCALE OF
PRODUCTION BY REDUCING THE TIME WASTED WAITING FOR EACH COMPONENT
TO COOL. THE SILICON PARTS ARE THEN EJECTED FROM THE MOULD, WHICH IS
SOMETIMES DONE BY SPRING LOADED MOULDS.
✴ASSEMBLY:
THE SILICON HOOKS AND FEET ARE ATTACHED ONTO THE PROJECTIONS ON THE
UNDERNEATH OF THE MAIN BODY. THESE TEND TO BE STUCK ON WITH AN
EPOXY RESIN. THIS IS ALL THAT REALLY NEEDS TO BE DONE BEFORE
PACKAGING AS THE SILICON INSERTS ARE PACKAGED SEPARATELY IN THE
BOX TO ALLOW THE CONSUMER TO CHOOSE WHICH TO USE DEPENDING ON THE
SIZE OF THEIR MACBOOK PRO. WHEN PACKAGED, THE MAIN BODY IS IN A LDPE
SHEATH. THIS IS PLACED ON TOP OF THE SILICONE INSERTS. A COLOURED
CARDBOARD LAYER IS THEN PLACED OVER THE TOP, SO THAT ONLY THE MAIN
BODY CAN BE SEEN. THEN WHEN IN SHOPS THE BOX IS THE MAIN FEATURE.
THIS MAKES IT LOOK LIKE A VERY HIGH END PRODUCT DUE TO THE QUALITY OF
THE CARDBOARD USED. ON TOP OF THIS A CARD SLIDER IS USED TO PREVENT
THE BOX FROM OPENING AND ALSO TO GIVE PRODUCT INFORMATION, SUCH AS
THE SPECIFICATIONS AND PICTURES.
DIAGRAM OF ANODISATION
SILICON
PACKAGING

Product Analysis
Bedford Smart Wall-Mounted Speaker Shelf
FUNCTION:
THE FUNCTION OF THE BEDFORD IS PRIMARILY TO BE AN IPOD
SPEAKER SYSTEM. HOWEVER IT DOUBLES UP AS A FLOATING
SHELF STORAGE DEVICE. THIS HELPS KEEP LOOSE WIRES
ASSOCIATED WITH SPEAKERS AND ALSO THE SPEAKERS
THEMSELVES OUT OF THE WAY IN A UNIFORM MANNER.
PERFORMANCE:
✴ THE MAIN BODY OF THE SHELF IS MADE OF MANUFACTURED
BOARD. THIS MAKES IT A FAIRLY LIGHT, WHICH MAKES IT
EASY TO LIFT DURING INSTALLATION AND REDUCES THE
TORQUE BEING EXERTED ON THE SUPPORT STRUTS HOLDING
THE MAIN BODY IN PLACE.
✴ THE SUPPORTS STRUTS ARE SHAPED SO THAT THEY SPREAD
THE WEIGHT OF THE SHELF ACROSS THE FACE OF THE WALL.
THIS PREVENTS DAMAGE THROUGH STRAIN WHERE IT IS
ATTACHED TO THE WALL.
✴ THE MAIN BODY IS BASICALLY A LARGE FRAME. THIS ALSO
HELPS SPREAD THE WEIGHT OF THE PRODUCT ACROSS THE
SUPPORT STRUTS.. IT ALSO PROVIDES REASONABLE
STRENGTH TO HOLD BELONGINGS ON TOP OR WITHIN ALONG
WITH THE SPEAKER SYSTEM
✴ THE EXTERIOR CAN ALSO BE MADE IN MULTIPLE COLOURS TO
SUIT ANY ROOM (PAINT/STAIN/VENEER)
✴ THE IPOD CONNECTOR IS MODERN TO HELP AID THE AESTHETIC
LOOK
MARKET:
✴ THIS PRODUCT IS ONE IN A LINE OF SHELVING UNITS THAT
HELP KEEP OBJECTS OFF OF THE USERS DESK. IT IS MORE FOR
THE OLDER GENERATION, FROM PERHAPS 18 YEARS AND
ABOVE
✴ THE PRODUCT IS MORE FOR USE IN ROOMS WHERE IT CAN BE
AN AID TO PAPER WORK OR COMPUTER WORK TO FREE UP
DESK SPACE
✴ SIMPLE SHAPE ALLOWS IT TO BE USED IN MOST TYPES OF
ROOM WITHOUT LOOKING OUT OF PLACE
✴ VARIETY OF COLOUR SCHEMES AND SURFACE FINISHES
ALLOW IT TO BE BOUGHT BY A LARGER MARKET TO SUIT
THEM.
✴ SPEAKER DESIGN IS AESTHETICALLY PLEASING DUE TO ITS
SIMPLICITY AND TIDINESS
QUALITY STANDARDS:
✴ THE COLOUR SHADE IS NOT A HUGE ISSUE AS CONSUMERS
ARE ONLY LIKELY TO HAVE ONE PER ROOM.
✴ SPEAKERS MUST BE TESTED FOR SOUND LEVELS/
FREQUENCIES TO MAKE SURE THEY WORK AND WILL NOT
BREAK EASILY.
✴ THE SUPPORT STRUTS MUST BE TESTED FOR STRENGTH AND
DURABILITY TO MAKE SURE THEY HAVE A LONG LIFE
✴ SIZE AND WEIGHT MUST BE CHECKED TO MAKE SURE IT
CONFORMS TO STANDARDS SET
SAFETY:
✴ ALL THE EDGES MUST BE SMOOTHED AND CORNERS ROUNDED
✴ THE SUPPORT STRUTS MUST BE STRONG ENOUGH TO HOLD IT
UP ON THE WALL
✴ WIRING MUST BE TESTED (E.G. PAT TESTED)
MATERIALS:
✴ MAIN BODY- IS MADE FROM CHIPBOARD AND OTHER MANUFACTURED BOARD AS
IT IS VERY AFFORDABLE TO BUY ON A LARGE SCALE, IT IS VERY LIGHT IN
COMPARISON TO OTHER WOODS SO WILL NOT BE TOO CUMBERSOME AND CAN
BE FINISHED IN A VARIETY OF WAYS, SUCH AS VENEERING.
✴ SPEAKERS AND SPEAKER COVERS- THE SPEAKERS ARE MADE OF VARIOUS PRE
MANUFACTURED COMPONENTS THAT CREATE THE DIAPHRAGM AND THE
ELECTROMAGNET BEHIND. THE COVERS ARE MADE OF A NYLON MESH
MATERIAL TO ALLOW THEM TO STRETCH OVER THE SPEAKERS AND THEN FIT
TIGHTLY AROUND THEM
✴ SUPPORT STRUTS- THESE ARE LIKELY MADE OF HIGH CARBON STEEL THAT
HAS BEEN HARDENED AND TEMPERED TO ALLOW RESISTANCE FROM THE
WEIGHT OF THE SHELF A SUDDEN IMPACTS
✴ THIS IS LIKELY TO BE A KNOCKDOWN FITTING STYLE OF
FURNITURE. THIS ALLOWS THE COMPONENTS TO MANUFACTURED
ON A MASS SCALE, USING MOSTLY WORKERS NOT MACHINES,
AS THEY DO NOT NED TO BE FITTED. HOWEVER, THIS IS MORE
LIKELY TO BE DONE IN BATCHES AS CUSTOMERS CAN ORDER THE
PRODUCT IN COLOUR VARIATIONS TO SUIT THEM
✴ THE CHIPBOARD COMPONENTS CAN BE IDENTICALLY CUT TO SIZE
USING JIGS
✴ THE STEEL STRUTS CAN BE MADE USING AN AUTOMATED
EXTRUSION PROCESS. HOWEVER, DUE TO THE WALL FITTING IT IS
MORE LIKELY THAT THERE IS ALSO AN ELEMENT OF FORGE
WELDING NEEDED TO ADDED THE FIXINGS REQUIRE.D
HEALTH AND SAFETY:
COSHH IS ALSO REQUIRED FOR THE MANUFACTURING OF
NOT ONLY MATERIALS BUT ALSO THE WORKPLACE
ENVIRONMENT.
TECH SPECS:
WHEN BUILT-
HEIGHT = 400MM
WIDTH = 1200MM
DEPTH = 400MM
WEIGHT = 19.2KG
WHEN PACKAGED-
HEIGHT = 400MM
WIDTH = 1200MM
DEPTH = 400MM
WEIGHT = 19.2KG

Product Analysis
THE MAIN BODY:
FIRST, THE WOODEN BASE IS MADE. THIS IS DONE BY CREATING A HOLLOW BOX. THIS
IS USUALLY MADE USING MANUFACTURED BOARD THAT IS VENEERED TO GIVE THE
REQUIRED FINISH, SUCH AS HEAVY MAHOGANY, WHILST KEEPING THE OBJECT LIGHT.
A SIMPLE FRAME IS FIRST BUILT USING A LIGHT, BUT STURDY WOOD, SUCH AS PINE.
AROUND THIS THE MANUFACTURED BOARD IS BUTT JOINTED AROUND IT AND THEN
EITHER GLUED OR TACKED IN PLACE. 2 OR MORE HOLES ARE DRILLED ABOUT 3/4 OF
THE DEPTH FOR THE SUPPORT STRUTS TO GO THROUGH. A DECORATIVE EDGE IS THEN
PLACED AROUND THE EDGES. ONCE BUILT THE SHELF CAN BE FINISHED IN A VARIETY
OF WAYS, FROM LAMINATING TO STAINING OR PAINTING.
SUPPORT ARMS:
THE SUPPORT ARMS ARE MADE OF MILD STEEL. THEY CONSISTENT OF 2
COMPONENTS- THE MOUNTING BRACKET AND THE TWO STRUTS. TO START WITH THE
MOUNTING BRACKET IS CUT TO LENGTH SO IT IS JUST SHORTER AT BOTH ENDS THAN
THE MAIN BODY OF THE PRODUCT. THIS IS DONE BY ONE OF 3 METHODS - CNC, PLASMA
CUTTING OR WATER JET CUTTING. THIS IS SO THAT THE MEASUREMENTS AND
POSITIONING OF SCREW HOLES IS ACCURATE AND REDUCES MANUFACTURING TIME
BY REMOVING THE MANUAL LABOUR SIDE OF THINGS. 2 STEEL TUBES ARE THEN
MADE BY CUTTING THE TUBING TO 3/4 OF THE DEPTH OF THE MAIN PRODUCT. THE
NEXT STAGE IS LIKELY TO BEEN DONE BY A WORKER AS THE OVERALL PRODUCT IS
MADE IN BATCHES AND CUSTOM ORDERS. THEREFORE, IT IS MORE COST EFFECTIVE TO
PREPARE AND WELD THE STEEL TOGETHER. THE WORKER WOULD TAPER THE JOINING
ENDS OF THE STEEL TUB TO CREATE A CHANNEL FOR THE ... FEED. THERE IS A
POSSIBILITY THAT AN INDENT COULD BE MADE ON THE MOUNTING BRACKET TO MAKE
THE COMPONENTS FIT MORE SNUGLY. THE JOINING AREAS WOULD THEN BE CLEANED
TO REMOVE ANY GREASE OR OIL TO PREVENT ANY WEAK WELDS FROM OCCURRING.
ONCE JOINED THE WELDS WOULD BE CLEANED TO REMOVE ANY SOOT AND THEN
PAINTED USING ....
SPEAKERS:
COME TO THE MANUFACTURER PRE BUILT. THEY ARE THEN INSTALLED INTO BOXES.
THESE USE STANDARD BUTT JOINTS. HOLES ARE DRILLED FOR DOWEL JOINTS TO THE
BASE AND TOP. THE TOP IS SIMILAR TO THE BASE, EXCEPT THERE IS NO HOLLOW
SPACE. THE BACK IS JUST A SINGLE SHEET OF FINE GRAIN CHIP BOARD.
WIRING:
THE WIRING IS PRE DONE BY A COMPANY, WHICH THE MANUFACTURER OF THE SHELF
HAS OUTSOURCED TO. ALL THE MANUFACTURER DOES IS ENCASED IN
MANUFACTURED BOARD, FITTING WITH THE REST OF THE PRODUCT. THE SPEAKER
WIRING THEN LEADS OUT TO A MAINS SUPPLY CABLE FOR THE USER TO PLUG INTO A
WALL SOCKET
Bedford Smart Wall-Mounted Speaker Shelf
Cheaper than buying hardwoods as they are
harder to source sustainably and are denser
than more common lightwoods, such as pine
User may feel that the product is “cheap tat”
due to materials used
Possibility to have any aesthetic look due to
laminating or staining or painting
It is very costly, about 6 times more than the
extraction process of iron due to the vast
amount of electricity needed throughout the
process
Recycling of wood to make boards is good for
environment and sustainability
Boards more likely to split under pressure
Support arms capable of holding a vast
amount of weight
The wall it is mounted to may not be able to
take the weight of the product or the turning
force put upon it
DIAGRAM OF WALL MOUNTINGINTERNAL FRAME
SHELF AND SUPPORT STRUTS

Product AnalysisSMARTdesk’s ﬂipIT Duo
FUNCTION: THE FUNCTION OF THE FLIPIT DUO IS TO TURN A
WORKING ENVIRONMENT REVOLVING AROUND A DESK
WORKSPACE INTO A MULTIPURPOSE PLATFORM. PRIMARILY THIS
IS TO HELP THE USER SWITCH BETWEEN PAPER BASED WORK
AND COMPUTER WORK. I DOES THIS BY HAVING FLIP UP
MONITORS THAT CAN BE CLOSED TO MAINTAIN A FLAT WORKING
AREA. IT ALSO KEEPS ITSELF SELF CONTAINED BY HAVING ALL
WIRING UNDERNEATH THE DESK INCLUDING A ADDITIONAL MULTI
SOCKET FOR OTHER PERIPHERALS.
PERFORMANCE:
✴ IT IS DESIGNED TO BE COMPLETELY FLAT PACKED TO BE ASSEMBLED
BY THE USER, MAKING IT EASY TO SHIP
✴ IT USES 2 STEEL WIRE STRAPS ATTACHED TO THE MONITOR FLIPPING
MECHANISM AND THE SLIDE OUT KEYBOARD TRAY, SO THAT WHEN
YOU PULL OR PUSH EITHER ONE THE SYSTEM MOVES TOGETHER
✴ IT HAS A CABLE MANAGER TO KEEP POWER LEADS OUT OF THE WAY
NEATLY
✴ THE GAS STRUTS ARE CAPABLE OF LIFTING A 23” MONITOR BY
THEMSELVES
✴ THE MONITORS ARE REALLY EASY TO PUT INTO THE OPEN OR CLOSED
POSITION WITH MINIMAL EFFORT
✴ THE MONITORS CAN BE ADJUSTED WHEN NEED FOR THE USER’S NEED
AS THEY ARE MOUNTED ON SWIVEL BRACKETS
✴ THE MAIN BODY CAN BE CUSTOM DESIGNED TO THE USER’S
SPECIFICATION SO THAT IT CAN FIT INTO ANY ENVIRONMENT, WITH A
STEEL FRAME OR WOOD VENEER, WHICH ALSO MAKES IT EASY TO
CLEAN AND MAINTAIN
✴ THERE IS AN INSET FOR A CPU, WHICH KEEPS IT OFF OF THE FLOOR AND
AWAY FROM BEING KICKED OR IN THE WAY
✴ IT HAD ADJUSTABLE FEET SO THAT THE USER CAN MAKE THE PRODUCT
LEVEL
MARKET:
✴ THIS PRODUCT WAS PRIMARILY FOR THE EDUCATION MARKET, BUT
HAS SINCE EXPANDED TO SUIT THE NEEDS OF BUSINESSES AND
ANYONE REQUIRING BOTH DESK SPACE AND COMPUTER SPACE IN A
SMALL AREA
✴ TEACHERS OR GROUPS WORK THAT CAN USE THIS DUAL MONITOR
VERSION TO COLLABORATE WITH ANOTHER PERSON DIRECTLY
✴ THE PRODUCT PRICE IS A QUOTE BASED ON THE REQUIRED
SPECIFICATIONS OF THE USER
✴ THE CUSTOM DESIGNS ALLOW THE PRODUCT TO FIT IN ANY
ENVIRONMENT.
✴ THE MECHANISM HELPS WITH GIVING A SIMPLE NAME.
✴ THE MECHANISM OF THE PRODUCT COULD ALSO BE BOUGHT SEPARATELY
TO FIT ONTO AN EXISTING DESK
✴ DESPITE BEING MADE TO ORDER, JIGS WOULD BE USED FOR CLIENTS WHO
JUST WANT THE MATERIAL CHANGED SO ALL THE COMPONENTS WOULD
STILL BE THE SAME. THIS WOULD CUT DOWN MANUFACTURING TIMES.
✴ IT STILL LOOKS LIKE A DESK AND NOT OUT OF PLACE WHEN MONITOR IS
DOWN
QUALITY STANDARDS:
✴ THE SURFACE FINISH MUST BE SMOOTH AND FLUSH SO THAT
PAPER WORK CAN STILL BE DONE
✴ THE MATERIAL FINISH SHOULD BE PRECISELY WHAT THE USER
HAS REQUESTED
✴ THERE MUST BE NO DENTS
✴ THE MECHANISM MUST BE ABLE TO OPERATE WITHOUT
DAMAGING THE MONITOR
✴ THE MOVING PARTS MUST NOT WEAR OR BREAK AFTER A SHORT
PERIOD OF TIME
SAFETY:
✴ MUST NOT BE TOO HEAVY TO CAUSE INJURY WHILST MOVING IT
AROUND WHEN FLAT PACKED
✴ EDGES MUST BE SMOOTH AND ROUNDED. THIS COULD HAVE BEEN
DONE BY SANDBLASTING IT/ ABS COVERED (METAL) OR SANDING IT
(WOOD)
MATERIALS:
✴ MAIN BODY- THE MAIN BODY IS MADE FROM EITHER WATER
JET CUT MILD STEEL OR CUT MANUFACTURED BOARD WITH
A PARTICULAR WOOD TYPE VENEER
✴ FEET - THESE ARE MADE FROM STAINLESS STEEL SCREWS
WITH AN ABS FOOT FITTED
✴ MECHANISM - THE MONITOR AND KEYBOARD TRAYS ARE
ALSO MADE FROM MILD STEEL. THE WIRE USED IS STEEL
AND THE SHARP EDGES ARE COVERED BY ANABS LINING
✴ DUE TO THE PRODUCT BEING CUSTOM THE LEVEL OF PRODUCTION
WOULD BE BATCH
✴ MOST ORDERS WOULD BE FOR STANDARD MEASUREMENTS,
THEREFORE JIGS CAN BE MADE TO CUT DOWN MANUFACTURING
TIME IN CONJUNCTION WITH CNC MACHINES
✴ THE PRODUCT IS NOT ASSEMBLED FULLY IF MADE USING JIGS AS
ONLY ONE IN THAT BATCH WOULD NEED TO BE TESTED TO SEE IF IT
FITS TOGETHER CORRECTLY. THIS ALSO CUTS DOWN ON
MANUFACTURING TIME
✴ MORE CUSTOMISED ORDERS WOULD TAKE A WHILE LONGER DUE
TO LARGER SIZES AND DIFFERENT SHAPES E.T.C. THIS WOULD
REQUIRE MORE MANUAL LABOUR AND THEREFORE INCREASES
UNIT COST
HEALTH AND SAFETY
COSHH IS ALSO REQUIRED FOR THE MANUFACTURING OF
NOT ONLY MATERIALS BUT ALSO THE WORKPLACE
ENVIRONMENT.
TECH SPECS:
WHEN BUILT-
HEIGHT = 762MM
WIDTH = 1524MM
DEPTH = 762MM
WEIGHT = 30KG
WHEN PACKAGED-
HEIGHT = 250MM
WIDTH = 1524MM
DEPTH = 762MM
WEIGHT = 27KG

Product AnalysisSMARTdesk’s flipIT Duo
✴MAIN BODY:
✴METAL-
IT IS LIKELY THAT MILD STEEL IS EXTRUDED INTO SHEET MATERIAL. IT IS THEN CUT
TO SPECIFICATION USING THE WATER JET CUTTER. AFTER THIS ALL OF THE CUT
COMPONENTS WOULD BE POWDER COATED. THIS IS WHERE AN ELECTROSTATIC GUN
TURNS THE THERMOSET POLYMER POWDER INTO NEGATIVELY CHARGED PARTICLES.
A POSITIVE CHARGE IS PUT ON THE MILD STEEL COMPONENTS. WHEN SPRAYED THIS
CAUSES THE PARTICLES OF THE THERMOSET POLYMER TO STICK TO ALL PARTS OF
THE COMPONENT WITHOUT LEAVING ANY UNTOUCHED AREAS. AFTER THIS, THE
PARTS ARE THEN CURED BY HEATING IT TO AROUND 200OC TO CREATE A SOLID SKIN.
THIS PROVIDES PROTECTION AND AN AESTHETICALLY PLEASING LOOK.
✴WOOD VENEER-
ALTERNATIVELY TO THE MILD STEEL, A WOOD VENEER CAN BE USED. THIS IS VERY
SIMILAR TO THE MILD STEEL. FIRST MANUFACTURED BOARD WOULD BE CUT TO THE
SPECIFIED SIZES TO CREATE THE STRUCTURE. THE DIFFERENCE IS THE FINISH. A
PARTICULAR TYPE OF WOOD CAN BE REPLICATED USING THE VENEER TO MAKE IT
LOOK MORE LIKE A CLASSIC DESK, WITHOUT ADDING A HUGE AMOUNT OF WEIGHT
AND COST TO THE PRODUCT. I T COULD ALSO BE STAINED OR PAINTED AS IF IT WERE
MADE FROM NORMAL WOOD PLANKS.
✴ LID -
THE LID IS MADE FROM ABS WITH AN ABS GUARD ON THE DESK. THESE ARE MADE BY
INJECTION MOULDING. THE ABS PELLETS ARE DROPPED THROUGH THE HOPPER ONTO
THE ARCHEMEDES SCREW. HEATING ELEMENTS THEN MELT THE PELLETS UNTIL
LIQUID. THE SCREW IS THEN RAMMED INTO A MOULD USING HYDRAULICS. THE MOULD
THEN OPENS, EJECTING THE PRODUCT. THIS NEEDS MINIMAL FINISHING AS IT IS
EXACTLY LIKE THE MOULD, WHICH HAS ALREADY BEEN FINISHED. HOWEVER, SOME
FLASH MAY NEED TO BE REMOVED. THIS IS USED AS IT IS DURABLE AND CAN
WITHSTAND THE CONTINUOUS USE OF OPENING AND CLOSING.
✴MECHANISM:
✴WIRE-
THIS IS MADE FROM MILD STEEL. BY EXTRUDING AND DRAWING OUT A MILD STEEL
BLOCK MULTIPLE TIMES THE METAL TURN INTO A FLEXIBLE WIRE. BY ENTWINING IT
WITH SEVERAL OTHER STRANDS THE WIRE BECOMES STRONGER AND THEN THESE
ENTWINED STRANDS CAN BE ENTWINED WITH OTHER ENTWINED STRANDS.
THIS IS
✴KEYBOARD TRAY-
THIS IS ALSO MADE FROM MILD STEEL. HOWEVER, BEFORE THE POWDER COATING
PROCESS THE EDGES ARE BRICK PRESSED TO A 90O ANGLE TO PREVENT THINGS
FROM FALLING OFF OF THE SIDES
Customised to user
specifications
Cost and labour per unit goes
up
Mild steel is relatively cheap
due to abundance
Low tensile strength for wire,
but can be changed with
added chemicals/ processes-
cost more
Injection moulding quick and
can produce parts on a large
scale
cost of running machinery for
batch production is high as
power required for heating and
hydraulics costs a lot to run
Many finishes can be achieved
with both the mild steel and
wood veneer
Wood veneer could look too
cheap aesthetically
Manufactured board is
sustainable as it recycles off
cut and requires less trees to
be cut down
Very fibrous , so may need to
be treated before use
CABLE TIDY:
AGAIN, THIS IS MADE FROM MILD STEEL. IT IS
BASICALLY A SMALL BOX, WHICH HAS BEEN
MADE BY BRICK PRESSING AFTER THE
SHAPE HAS BEEN WATER JET CUT. IT HAS AN
OPEN SIDE FOR CABLE TO SIT IN. I T ALSO
HAS PROJECTIONS FOR LONG CABLES TO
WRAP AROUND.
BRICK PRESS
INJECTION MOULDING
FLIPIT IN USE
CABLE TIDY

Overview
EACH HAS IT OWN WAY OF ACTING AS A STORAGE DEVICE. THEY ALL HAVE VERY GOOD COMPONENTS, WHICH I WILL ATTEMPT TO
INTEGRATE INTO MY FINAL PRODUCT, SUCH AS HAVING A MECHANISM AND BUILT IN SPEAKERS. THEY ALSO POINT OUT SOME BAD POINTS
THAT I WILL NEED TO OVERCOME TO CREATE A GOOD PRODUCT. FOR EXAMPLE, HAVING SUITABLE SIZE FOR IT NOT TO BE IN THE WAY AND
ALSO KEEPING EVERYTHING SELF CONTAINED
THE BOOKARC PRO IS VERY GOOD AS IT IS
SMALL AND NOT VERY CUMBERSOME, YET IT
PERFORMS AN IMPORTANT TASK OF FREEING
UP DESK SPACE AND MAKING HEAT
DISSIPATION FROM THE COMPUTER MORE
EFFICIENT. HOWEVER, IT IS TOO SMALL FOR
ANY LARGE SCALE EFFECT ON FREEING UP
DESK SPACE AS THERE WILL BE MORE THAN
JUST THE MACBOOK PRO ON THE DESK AT
ANY ONE TIME. ITS DESIGN MAY BE USEFUL
AS A COMPONENT OF MY FINAL PRODUCT
THE BEDFORD SMART WALL-MOUNTED SPEAKER SHELF
IS BETTER THAN THE BOOKARC PRO IN TERMS OF
ACTUALLY REMOVING ITEMS FROM THE DESK
WORKSPACE, WHILST NOT GETTING RID OF THEM.
PARTICULARLY HAVING THE SPEAKERS BUILT IN
REMOVES THE SPEAKERS THEMSELVES AND THE
TANGLED CABLES THAT FORM AROUND THE COMPUTER.
IT CAN ALSO BE MOUNTED ANYWHERE AS IT COMES WITH
A WALL MOUNTING BRACKET THAT THE SHELF ITSELF
SLIDES ONTO. HOWEVER, I AM NOT A FAN OF THE PLAIN
OBLONG SHAPE WITH SKIRTING AS AN AFTERTHOUGHT
AND WOULD LIKE THE IDEA OF THIS PRODUCT IN A DESIGN
WHICH MAKES IT NOT “JUST” A SHELF WITH SPEAKERS
THE FLIPIT DUO IS THE BEST IDEA OUT OF THE THREE PRODUCTS
AS IT ALLOWS THE DESK TO HAVE THE ABILITY OF BEING A
PAPERWORK DESK AND A COMPUTER DESK AT THE SAME TIME.
IT ALSO KEEP THE CABLE SELF CONTAINED, WHICH IS WHAT I
LIKE ABOUT THE CABLE TIDY DESIGN. I ALSO LIKE THE ABILITY
TO HAVE IT EITHER METAL OR WOOD VENEERED TO SUIT ANY
ENVIRONMENT REQUIRED. ANOTHER THING IS IT HAS A SIMPLE
WIRE MECHANISM, WHICH LIFTS THE MONITOR LID WHEN THE
KEYBOARD TRAY IS PULLED OUT. THIS MAKES IT NOT “JUST” A
DESK AND PUTS A BIT OF SIMPLE ENGINEERING INTO THE
PRODUCT. ON THE OTHER HAND, IT WOULD MEAN REPLACING
ANY EXISTING DESK WHERE IT WOULD GO, WHICH IS NOT WHAT
EVERYONE WANTS TO DO. IT ALSO DOES NOT HAVE ANY WAY
OF KEEPING CABLES FROM SPEAKERS OR OTHER PERIPHERALS
THAT NEED TO BE ABOVE DESK LEVEL CONTAINED. HAVING A
MOVING MECHANISM IS A GOOD IDEA THAT I WILL TRY TO USE
IN MY PRODUCT TO HELP KEEP THINGS OUT OF THE WAY.
Product Analysis
CONCLUSION
SUSTAINABILITYSUSTAINABILITYSUSTAINABILITY
The Aluminium is 76% recycled from offcuts and household goods.
However, the amount of energy required for the anodising process is quite
high, so is not very sustainable in that sense
The source of the pine comes from forests where 2 tress are planted for
every tree that is cut down. The mild steel... Mass production is more
efficient in terms of energy use.
MDF is made from recycled off cuts. Water jet cutting does use a lot of
energy and water, however the water is recycled through the machine
several times.

User Group:
• Customers using either the hotel rooms or function room or people needing a less
cluttered workspace
Purpose:
• Create a more useable workspace by keeping cables and peripherals out of the way. It
should fit into existing environments with ease and also be self contained. Another
purpose is to also have drop down compartments and potentially a screen for storage
and presentations.
Product Specification:
Form:
• Must come in different styles, e.g. traditional wood
or modern acrylic. The interchangeable parts allow
the user to achieve this to their own specifications
• My client would like a cross between traditional Thai
and modern aesthetics
• Must have the ability to be customised to the user’s
needs, in terms of colours and styles
Function:
• Must hold multiple peripherals
• Must support the weight and number of books
typically found on a bookshelf (about 15)
• Be self contained
• Be a product that can be used for presentation
purposes
• Must be able to have interchangeable parts to allow
the user to adapt the product to their own
specifications
User Requirements:
• Must come flat packed to reduce costs to the user
from pre assembly and also allow parts to be
interchanged to the user’s preference
• Must be able to fit in with existing environments
• Installation must be fairly easy, i.e. wall mounted
support arms must stay on the wall and not damage
or weaken the wall structure behind or box joints
must fit properly
• Must be able to hold the weight of at least 2 shelves
of books and also a few peripherals (About 10 -
15kg)
• Must have a simple method of operating any
electrical or mechanical systems
• Screen and speaker systems must be compatible with
different computer operating systems
Performance Requirements:
• If battery operated, the life of the battery must
exceed about 6 months of regular use
• Drop down compartments should last (on battery) an
average of 10 up and down movements a day. This
means the pulley system will have less maintenance
needs
• If the design includes a mechanical system, it must be
able to support a minimum load of 5kg. This could
extend to also supporting a screen if possible, in which
case it should be able to support a minimum load of
10kg
• There must be some way of getting to the electrical or
mechanical system for maintenance needs
• If support struts are used (attached to the wall) they
must be tested for strength and durability to be sure
they can support the full load of the shelf
• Shelf must not wobble.
• Must not exceed a shipping weight of 30kg
• The structure must incorporate a speakers system.
Materials and Components:
• Any support struts (attached to the wall) must be
tested for strength and durability to be sure they can
support the full load of the shelf
• Any support struts must have a method of attaching
to different wall types, e.g. brick or dry wall. This
should help prevent the damage or weakening of walls
• Any wood must come from reliable and sustainable
sources
• Any plastics being used must have been recycled if
possible
• All materials should be found locally in relation to the
manufacturing location
• The main body must be light, therefore if wood is used
it is likely to be made of a manufactured board that
has been laminated to give a real wood feel
• Metallic components should ideally be anodised and
possibly pigmented (this increases durability)
• Must last between 5 and 10 years
Size:
• Should be of a size (when in flat pack form) that can
be packed into standard cardboard boxes and taken
home by the user
• When flat packed, the weight of the boxes should not
exceed 30kg
• For my client’s purposes, the product should be about
the size of a 30” or 40” screen
Safety:
• All edges and corners must be rounded to prevent
injury
• The initial weight should not exceed 30kg for
installation purpose
• In flat pack form, it should be ergonomically
packaged for ease of transportation
• Individual components must be easy to lift and install
to help prevent injury to the user’s back when moving
components
• All wiring and electrical supplies must be PAT tested
• There must be no significant gaps in the drop down
compartments to trap fingers in
• Any support struts must be tested for strength and
durability so the shelf doesn’t fall onto someone
Quality:
• All materials and components, from the main body to
adhesives and fixings, must be subject to British
Standards testing and also safety standard tests.
• Quality control must be implemented throughout to
ensure that each components is of the highest quality
before sales
• Must be no blemishes or webbing on acrylic sections
• The wood must be flush where there are any joints
and also flush against the wall it is mounted on to
prevent wobbling
• All finishes, be it varnish or paint must be to the
highest standard
Scale of Production:
• To start with production will be on a batch scale and
potentially will increase to mass in the future
• Jigs can be created to increase production efficiency
and also to create the interchangeable parts with the
client’s specifications to vary it from what is sold to
other consumers
• Standard fitting should be used where possible, to
reduce overall costs and to not overcomplicate the
product for the user’s assembly
Cost:
• My product should retail at around £200 - £300 to
my client
• The product should not be overly expensive
• As my client is part of the hospitality industry the
price of the product will be slightly higher than that
of the average consumer as the components will be
made to his specifications
• The materials will be sourced at reasonable prices
• The components will be sold as separate items,
however they are likely to be bought as a set
• Depending on the total cost of materials, I would be
retailing the product at about 175% of the material
costs
Design Brief:
• To design and build a product for use in a hotel or office space to create a tidy and
more efficient workspace
Client:
• Matthew Keenlyside, General Manager of The Chilli Pad
Manufacture:
• The Products should be created so that it flat packed.
This allows the user to easily transport it to a
location . Then they can assemble the product
themselves with ease. This reduces the time needed to
create each product as it removes the assembly stage
from the production line. By doing this the number of
units that can be shipped can increase. This also adds
to the advantage of IKEA styled components that can
be bought and assembled together at the users will
Use:
• The components will be rigorously tested before sale.
However, if a part does break, components will be
available as they will be made on a mass scale and the
components will be sold as separate items to allow
the function of interchangeable parts
End of Life:
• As the majority of materials will have been recycled
they could be recycled again. The electrical parts will
be in an isolated section of the product. This lets the
user dispose of the electrical components separately
in a more safe and sustainable manner

Second Contact with Client
I have sent Mr Keenlyside a small questionnaire via email to get more specific information on
what he wants. Below is a screenshot of the document he sent back.
/9/12

Third Contact with Client
Having received Mr Keenlyside’s completed questionnaire I brainstormed his ideas. I created a
mindmap and developed some of his major points. In doing this I have started to create a few
improved design ideas, which I have now shown to him. He said he would look over them and get in
touch soon after.
/9/12

Designs 1 2 3 4 5 6
Performance 4.5 4.5 3 4 3.5 5
User 5 3 3 4 3.5 3
Materials and components 4.5 4.5 4 4 5 3.5
Safety 3.5 4 4.5 5 5 5
Quality 5 4.5 4.5 5 5 3.5
Client 5 4 4.5 2 4 4.5
Total 27.5 24.5 23.5 24 26 24.5
In
Comparison
To
1 2 3 4 5 6
1 X
• Very Open in comparison
• larger space for presentational pieces
• Too large for existing environment
• Hard to mount onto soft dry walls
• No screen or speakers
• Free standing makes it easy to
position and move
• Can be quite heavy as it doesn’t need
to be wall mounted
• Could be overweight?
• Does not have a screen
• Speakers are the focal point
• “Just” a shelf with a speaker
• Easy to wall mount or free stand
• No real effect on market area
• Very open look
• Fewer components makes it easier to
ship and assemble
• No mechanical parts to fiddle with
• Not everyone has a projector
• Lighter as there is no LCD screen
• Space for presentational pieces
• No electrics needed for drop down
system therefore no mains socket
required near unit
2
• Self contained
• Nice modern design with traditional
styles integrated
• Customisable
• Screen and other peripherals kept out
of the way
X
• Not as larger
• Can be used for media presentations
and storage not just objects
• has speakers and screen
• Can hold few items
• Nothing special about iit
• Has a speaker
• Easy to mount anywhere
• Very open look
ship and assemble
Looks better due to simplicity
• Self contained
• White screen
• Slightly easier to mount anywhere
•
3
• Modern way of keeping things out of
the way without need for a drawer or
putting them on top
• Less cumbersome
• Does not take up bar space
• Can hold more peripherals
• Can showcase many products
• Permanent
• Focal point of environment X
• Only has a speaker
• Modern shape
• Simple assembly
• Very open look
ship and assemble
• Lighter and less cumbersome
• Better presentational/ storage space
• Modern appeal to drop down feature
• Harder to mount on all due to weight
4
• Can hold multiple peripherals
• Has both a screen and a speaker
• Harder to assemble/ install due to
number of components
• No speaker
• traditional wooden aesthtics
• Self contained
• More cumbersome
• Harder to find space
• Has speakers and a screen X
• Very open look
• Has speakers
• Has more use potential
• More of a focal point
• Has a white screen for projections
• No speaker
5
• Similar shape
• Not as open looking
• Has a screen
• Would look les cluttered due to drop
down compartments
• Can hold more peripherals
• Harder to wall mount due to size
• Overlay large
• Heavier
• Very cumbersome
•Easier to position as it doesn’t need to
be mounted
• Very plain looking
• Not as open
• Only has a speaker
• Modern shape
• Simple assembly X
• Not as open
• Has a screen aswell as a speaker
• Harder to wall mount due to weight
• Would look less cluttered due to self
contained drop down shelf
6
• Does not require projector
• Heavier due to screen
• Mechanical components harder to
maintain without knowledge of
components
• No white screen or speaker
• traditional wooden aesthtics
• Does not look as modern
• Not self contained
• Very cumbersome
•Easier to position as it doesn’t need to
be mounted
• Very plain looking
• Easier to find space for
• Does not have a white screen
• Speakers are the focal point
• “Just” a shelf with a speaker
• Easy to wall mount or free stand
• No real effect on market area
• Very open look
ship and assemble
• No mechanical parts to fiddle with X
Evaluation Matrix

I have chosen to go with the simple 2:1 ratio pulley as the Movement/Velocity ratio is also 2:1. This
means the length of string required to lower and raise the load is not too long as the length moved by the
actuator will be half of what the load will move. Also, the actuator I will be using will have more than
enough force to be able to lift the actual maximum load of 8kg as the 2:1 ratio also means that the
effort to load ratio reverses so that twice the amount of effort will be required to lift the load. The pulley
still will still have a vital role of creating a system that allows the actuator to act on both loads at once
not just one in the most efficient way.
/ :
tan
tan
Movement Velocity Ratio
Dis ce Moved by Load
Dis ce Moved by Effort
:
tan
Effort to Load Ratio
Load
Effort
Force Required to
Move a Cons t Load
=
:If m 1=
:m Ratio2
1
2
1
1 2`= =
:If m 1=
.
.
: Ratio0 22
0 66
3 1 3`
.
=
:m Ratio3
1
3
1
1 3`= =
:If m 1=
.
.
: Ratio0 22
0 88
4 1 4`
.
=
:m Ratio4
1
4
1
1 4`= =
.
.
: Ratio0 22
0 22
1 1 1`=
:If m 1=
:m Ratio
1
1
1
1 1 1`= =
DEVELOPMENT: PULLEY
SYSTEM
From my development I have encountered a few issues, which I will need to address for my final product:
Problems Solutions
The material used for the rope has a
tendency to slip on the wheels, which
causes extreme wear, thus shortening
the product life of the pulley.
I will prevent slippage on the wheels by
roughening up the wheel surface. As a
result I will also have to find a rope
material, which can grip onto this and
also be resistant to prolonged wear
The rope can come off of the wheels
and drop the load
I will have to create some sort of
component that acts like a guard and
keep the rope on the wheel at all times
For my drop down compartments I
decided to test out a method of using
pulley ratios to reduce the force and/or
distance required from the powering
mechanism to lift and drop the loads

DEVELOPMENT: ACTUATOR AND
POWER SUPPLY
T Mg Ma
T mg ma
- = -
- =
( )
M m
a M m
g M m
0>
`
-
= +
-
.
( . )
( . )
.
a
a ms
9 81
76 5 8
76 5 8
7 95 2
=
+
-
= -
( )
( ) ( )
( )
( )
Mv mv mgh Mgh
M m v M m gh
v gh
M m
M m
2
1
2
1
2
1
2
2 2
2
+ = - -
+ = -
=
+
-
E EK PO O= -
. .
( . )
( . )
.
.
V
V
V ms
2 7 95 0 22
76 5 8
76 5 8
2 84
1 68 1
# #=
+
-
=
= -
.
.
.
F mg
F
F N
Force required from actuator N
8 9 81
78 48
78 48
#
` 2
=
=
=
Therefore this actuator will be suitable enough for use. The load I have specified will also mean that the actuator will
have a long life as it is only 11% of what it is capable of pulling. An issue I may encounter is that the compartments
will move far too quickly so I will have to limit the force of the actuator by reducing the current flowing through the
circuit. I also have some leeway with the load I can place on the system as is is capable of heavier loads.
The power supply I intended on using was a YUASA 7ah battery.
This was to keep the product self contained so it would not need a
mains cable. However, this would on be sufficient enough to keep the
compartments going up and down 10 times a day for a year. This
means that having a screen as my client requested, would mean would
drain it too quickly. I will therefore resorts to a mains supply as it is
still only one cable to power the unit.
The current I will require will be less than 1 amp
( )
T ma mg
T m a g
= +
= +
( . . )
.
T
T N
8 7 95 9 81
142 08
= +
=
In order to move my pulley system I have decided to test out an actuator. I calculated some key
measurements required to decide if it was suitable and how I would need to operate it
T Tension in rope
M Maximum mass lifted by actuator
m Mass of object on end of pulleys
g Acceleration due to gravity
a Acceleration due to gravity
EK Kinetic energy
Ep Potential energy
g Mass of object on end of pulleys
h Height/ distance moved
V Velocity
F Force
T Tension in rope

DEVELOPMENT: SUPPORT
STRUTS
For the support struts I tested two welding techniques on two different types of strut. The first goes
through a hole in a product to hold it on a wall and the other acts like a shelf and lets the shelf sit on top of it
Forge Welding MIG Welding
For this I use braising. To do this I first cleaned up the two surface to be joined using emery cloth
of different grades and then rinsed clean. I then tapered one end of the cylindrical to create a channel
for the braining rod to fill in. To create the join I had to heat both materials at the same time evenly.
Once red hot I could then move the braising rod across the channel to fill it in and the joint is made.
Doing this, I had a few issues, which have made me turn away from this process.
๏ Both materials must be the same thickness, where I may need the wall bracket slightly thicker in
reality๏ The join was not clean as there was a lot of soot๏ The join ended up having a lot of holes in as a cylindrical shape is hard to join as heating it
evenly is very hard๏ It is extremely hard to create the joint without blowing a hole through the material
For this I used MIG welding. I found this to be much better than braising. To start with I cleaned
up all the joining surfaces using various grades of emery cloth as before and then tapered the joining
edges. To create the join I first lined up all the components into the position I wanted them to be
fixed using magnets. I then attached a to the wall bracket piece to ground it to prevent me
electrocuting myself. When I fed the steel wire through the gun and I pull the trigger electrical
current is flowing. When I touch this wire onto the components, the electrical circuit is completed and a
spot weld is created, much like the effect of solder, but much stronger. A carbon dioxide - Argon mix
is also flowing onto the weld area, which prevents soot from forming on the weld, making it clean. This
is what I will be using for my product because of the following:
๏ The weld is very strong, especially in comparison to my braising welds๏ It is much easier to do as the materials don’t need to be the same thickness or heated and is
therefore very quick to do๏ The weld is clean and does not need much finishing
A few issues I did encounter were:๏ You have to use the precise settings for heat, wire feed and power going through the equipment
otherwise pigeon droppings form๏ You must not rush the weld๏ Both materials must be cleaned and prepared properly for the weld
This support is also very strong due
to the diagonal support. However, I
don’t think I will use this as it will
take more time to make sure that
the components are the correct
length and when welded are at the
correct angles. Also, it does not
look as aesthetically pleasing as
the cylindrical support as it doesn’t
give as much of a floating effect
This support is strong due to the
MIG weld. However, it may have a
tendency to break with the added
torque put upon the weld with the
unit weight. It is also harder to weld
a curve. However, it does keep the
unit self contained as it is hidden
from view

DEVELOPMENT: JOINTS FOR MAIN BODY AND
COMPARTMENTSFor these joints I decided to test comb joints and dowel joints. This is to make sure that I have
sturdy joints that will not move or break under various loads
Comb Joints Dowel Joints
From my testing I have found that comb joints are the best joints to use. This is because of the
following:๏ They are strong against forces across the joint due to the comb structure๏ They can withstand a large amount of force and therefore load due to the comb structure
combined with wood glue๏ It has good torsional strength๏ It looks aesthetically pleasing
However, these can take a lot of time and effort to make as the joints have to be cut very
accurately in order to fit snuggly and look neat. This could be solved by creating a template or jig
to make sure all of the pieces fit together properly
From my testing I have found that dowel joints could be used but are not the best option. This is
because of the following:๏ They are fairly simple to make as all that is required are holes to be drilled and pre made
dowels to be fitted๏ Less material is wasted in comparison to comb joints๏ Good for flat packing as it is really easy to assemble without worrying about whether each pice
has been fitted at right angles as it fits into place by itself
However, a template or jig can still be used as a precaution to make sure all the pieces will fit
correctly. Also, the aesthetics after assembly make it look like a standard butt joint, which will make
the user feel as if the compartments were an after thought with a weak joint.
Distance, s
mm
Survival?
400 ✓
600 ✓
800 ✓
1000 ✓
1200 X
Resultant
Force of Mass
on Joint
Speed of Mass
at Maximum
Tolerance
Torque Placed
Upon the Joint
After Impact
Momentum of
Mass at
Maximum
Tolerance
V U AS22
= +
.V 2 9 81 1# #=
.V ms4 43 1
= -
p mv=
. .p 1 474 4 43#=
.p Kgms6 53 1
= -
F ma F mg`= =
. .F 1 474 9 81#=
.F N14 5=
M FS=
. .M 14 5 0 095#=
.M Nm1 38=
Resultant
Force of Mass
on Joint
Speed of Mass
at Maximum
Tolerance
Torque Placed
Upon the Joint
After Impact
Momentum of
Mass at
Maximum
Tolerance
Distance, s
mm
Survival?
400 ✓
600 ✓
800 X
1000 X
1200 X
V U AS22
= +
. .V 2 9 81 0 6# #=
.V ms3 43 1
= -
p mv=
. .p 1 474 3 43#=
.p Kgms5 01 1
= -
F ma F mg`= =
. .F 1 474 9 81#=
.F N14 5=
M FS=
. .M 14 5 0 095#=
.M Nm1 38=

DEVELOPMENT:SIDE SPEAKER/STORAGE
CONTAINMENT MATERIAL
I started with a pre formed
plywood laminate to use as a
former
First I tried putting the
former in a vice and using a
heat gun to form the acrylic
strip around it
This did not work as planned as the
acrylic would not hold its shape
during the moulding as it cooled down
too soon. This is because it is far to
hot to touch when heated to a pliable
state and also because it is a
thermoplastic that returns to its
original shape when heated.
I tried the process again, but I clamped down one
end. This allowed me to heat up the material
without worrying about its position on the former.
When pliable I quickly pulled the material over the
former. The result was better than before, however
a significant crack occurred due to the force needed
to form it and the time it takes for the material to
cool down and whether the material has been
heated evenly
In order to heat the acrylic strip evenly I
decided to try the strip heater. This worked
much better as it had a similar effect to a
vacuum former heating element.
The one issue I had was that bubbles formed
easily in the centre of the acrylic as the
section directly above the heating element
tended to heat up much quicker than the rest
of the acrylic
Once pliable I placed the acrylic into the
former’s mould instead of the former. This was
because it is much easier to apply the pressure
on the pliable acrylic evenly to form the desired
shape rather than try to force it into shape as
it cools along the former.
The end result is much
better!
For the side pieces, I decided to test out different methods of forming
the acrylic to the correct shape

Transparent acrylic cover just to add some modern depth to the top so it isn’t just plain
Mounting bracket is two MIG welded mild steel tubes on a mild steel strip. May
bend as a result of the torque put upon it
DEVELOPMENT: INITIAL CAD DESIGNS
1
2
Comb joints along edge. Very strong, but may
wobble with mechanism attached
Total acrylic speaker shell
for lightness and durability.
The speaker is mounted onto
acrylic mounting strips
Stained pine mounting board (biscuit
joined) for screen or space for shelf
Darker contrasting wood
(stained pine or teak) shelf
in housing joint
Mild steel frame for stand, plastic dip
coated or sprayed with chrome paint
Stacked speaker style with graduating radii
Squared edge to add a modern twist by adding
a sharp angular look to a curved shape. Made
from acrylic with an MDF frame inside
Perforated steel sheet speaker
cover, sprayed with chrome paint
Stained pine mounting board (biscuit joined) for screen. Will have holes for wires e.t.c.
Comb joints used for their good torsional strength and
durability. This is good as the compartments and unit weight will
put a lot of stress and strain on them
3 compartments, 2 smaller ones for remotes e.t.c., one larger one for a laptop and wiring to screen

Front
View
Isometric
View
CommentFront
View
Isometric
View Client Comment
This design looks very modern with its
perfect semi circle design. It is easy to form
due to this simple shape, that has no tricky
angular areas that may not have been
formed well otherwise
This design will make the total unit length
longer than necessary due to the ﬂat
plateau.This looks stylish, but adds
unnecessary weight
This was based on some of my clients
suggestions on my initial ideas. It keeps the
unit looking very angular, which some
people like, but in this case may be too
much for the product
DEVELOPMENT:SIDE SPEAKER DESIGN (1)Design1Design2Design3
15 x 15 x 340, acrylic strip
to mount speaker onto
Acrylic side to mount onto
main unit made from laser
cut acrylic and butt joined
with Tensol-12
15 x 15 x 40 acrylic block to
mount speaker onto
Centre hole, diameter 70mm, to
allow bell of speaker and its wiring
to go behind
Semicircular acrylic, radius 170
and 5mm thick to mount the main
speaker body onto The edges can be joined to the
mounting strips in the main shell of
the speaker using Tensol-12 to fix
it in place with easy as it is the
same material being joined
Square cut out 50 x 50
for wiring to feed to main
unit body
Square cut out 50 x 50
for wiring to feed to main
unit body

DEVELOPMENT:SIDE SPEAKER DESIGN (2)

IsometricView
Comment
IsometricView
Client Comment
This design is most common amongst
ﬂoating shelves. It is particularly appealing
as it will be hidden from view. However,
welding the tubing would be hard and the
weld may not form properly and therefore
be weak and potentially cause the unit to
fall and smash to pieces
This design is likely to be the simplest to
create, due to the angular nature of the
components to be welded. I would prefer
to use this as it would help support the
force caused by the unit and the turning
force placed upon it as a result. However it
will be on show in its current state, so I
will need to adapt it if I am to use it
DEVELOPMENT:MOUNTING BRACKETDesign1Design2
Slot cut into back of main unit
60 x 300 x 5. This allows the
angled bracket to be used. It also
helps support more weight from the
turning force caused by the unit
hanging off of the wall
Unit slides onto bracket It remains
separate to allow the user to
position them so that it can be level
4 3.5mm countersunk holes to fixe
bracket securely onto wall and make
sure the unit sits sits flush
Mild steel MIG welded

Views
Comment
Views
Client Comment
This design makes efﬁcient use of space
with the screen using only what it needs in
terms of depth.This allows a larger space
to be used for the drop down
compartment. It is very simple to assemble
as the components ﬁt together like a jig
saw.The wide slot on the side is also very
useful as it means wires are not being
forcefully crammed into place when the
speaker is attached. However, the weight
might be an issue, particularly because of
the distance the unit comes off of the wall
and therefore the torque applied to the
support struts.
DEVELOPMENT:MAIN BODYCrossSectionIsometric
14mm pine block, to mount screen
onto securely without the risk of
breaking it14mm wide and 3mm deep
routed groove to keep the
pine mounting block in
place and to prevent any
wobble from occurring
3mm birch ply will be mounted on
4 mitre blocks to seal the back,
whilst keeping weight to a minimum
Comb joints for maximum
strength to weight ratio
Mounting block in place, wiring
feeds through slots cut into it
50 x 50 slots cut into both side pieces before joining
to main body for speakers to be mounted and connected
Mitered blocks of pine
Birch ply backing
Pine screen mount

DEVELOPMENT: DROP DOWN COMPARTMENTS
IsometricView FrontView
Comment
Client Comment
Based on my clients initial ideas, this design conforms to modern environments
naturally, as it replicates the exiting have of having a TV screen with speaker units
on either side. It is also good as it separates items, so the user can have remote
controllers in one section and menus in another. However, after some thought, to
apply a mechanical mechanism to this would be quite tricky and also unnecessary
as the actuator can support 75kg by itself
This design improves upon the idea of the product being “clean and neat” whilst
being self contained. It is very open so does not impose itself too much.The
shelves are also good in the fact that they are only joined on 2 edges, which
similarly to the main unit, gives the unit even more of a tidy, self contained feeling.
It is also easier to feed wires to particular gadgets as everything is in a single
compartments, therefore the slots only have to be in one place
Design1Design2
7 x 100 x 5 routed slot cut out of pine side for shelf
Comb joints for maximum strength to weight ratio
7mm thick pine sides
25mm radius circular holes through pine back piece. This is to keep
wires out of the way and keep them within the main unit body
Laminated birch ply shelves. This is to keep them light, but also to make
sure that they will be strong and durable enough for continuous use
Overall look

Comment
Client Comment
This design in slightly complicated, but utilises the mechanical idea behind the up
and down movements. It also will be able to support a vast weight due to the 2:1
ratio of the pulleys.The use will hopefully see this as a well made piece with this
incorporated into the unit. However, by doing this the rope used with the pulleys
has the potential to catch on other parts of the mechanism and therefore not
work.
This design is appealing due to its simplicity.After some thought, to apply a
mechanical mechanism to this would be quite tricky and also unnecessary as the
actuator can support 75kg by itself. So in terms of efﬁciency of space and build
time, this idea is would be the better choice
Design1Design2 DEVELOPMENT:DROP DOWN MECHANISM
Pine bottom, with a smaller piece
mounted on top to make the
bottom flush when closed and to
sit in a groove on the main body
Simple rebate/housing joint with
either birch ply or thin pine
Side pieces sit on
edge of top piece. Layout of mechanism
Drawer rails allow the
mechanical unit to slide out
for easy access maintenance
Text

Acrylic speaker shell formed using heat gun and jig
and then fits over laminated birch ply frame
Birch ply wood backing with slots for mounting bracket cut
Pine screen mount
DEVELOPMENT: FINAL CAD DESIGN - EXPLODED VIEWS
Routed slot for end of actuator to be fitted
Routed rebate for housing
joint of screen mount
Stained pine/ teak shelves, housing joined
to two sides of the compartment frame 2 holes cut with a circular saw for
cables and wiring to fit through
Mitred pine to help support the
back piece
Slot cut out to feed wiring to
speakers
Slot cut out to allow mounting
bracket to fit all the way through
Slot cut out using band saw to
feed wiring to speakers
Sand casted aluminum mounting
bracket for actuator
Perforated
steel sheet
with chrome
paint
Birch Py
wood speaker
mount
Laminated ply
internal speaker
frame
Pine side comb jointed to
top and bottom pieces MIG welded mild steel bracket with black metal paint
Screws on to mitred
pine supports

DEVELOPMENT: FINAL CAD DESIGN - COMPONENT VIEWS
COMPARTMENT
SIDE
ISOMETRIC - BACK
BACK
COMPARTMENT - ANGLED TOP
FRONT
Top - Actuator end
pushes through and is
held in place with a
short mild steel dowel
Underneath top - Actuator
sits in routed slot
FRONT - ANGLED

Manufacturing Plan: Main Body - Outer ShellBiscuitJoining
CombJoints
Finish
Start
Yes?
Measure and mark pine planks to size
Check two times that the measurements are correct using a
tape measure and tri square. Are they correct?
Use circular saw to cut the pine planks down
Check measurements of both the
pine and the width that the blade will cut each time,
using a tape measure. Be careful when using the saw to not put hands
or have loose clothing go into the mechanisms. Are the
measurements correct?
Mark out the positions on the marrying sections of
the pine using a pencil and, rule and tri square and check their position
is correct. Are they correct?
Biscuit joint the marked out slots
Be sure that the
biscuit jointer in lined up correctly
with your markings before cutting. Check that the
marrying pine joins together correctly before moving on. Make sure
saw dust goes into a container and not into other people’s eyes. Wear
goggles and potentially an apron to prevent loose clothing
catching in biscuit joiner. Do they join
together correctly?
Mark out the biscuit joints slots on the planks
Yes?
Yes?
Join pine with biscuits
Apply wood glue evenly across both edges of
the planks to be joined. Fill in the slots with some of the wood
glue and insert the biscuits. Join both halves together and then place
between 2 or more sash clamps, making sure that the planks are level with each other and
not bent by placing a known flat object across the join to see if it raises. Put some MDF
stoppers where the clamp would touch the pine to prevent any impressions
and damage occurring. Clean any excess glue off using a
damp cloth. Have you done this?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?
Join shell components together
Yes?
Start
Measure and mark joined pine planks to size
Check measurements of both
using a metal rule the pine and the width that
the blade will cut each time, using a tape measure. Be careful
when using the saw to not put hands or have loose clothing
go into the mechanisms. Are the
Make sure that the lines are at right angles using a
tri square. Check that the markings match up with the pine to be
joined. Are they at right angles and match up?
Cut out comb joints
Use a coping saw to cut the
vertical lines. Finish with either filing and
rasping or use a chisel. Be careful not to change the joint
from the markings and that components still fit together snugly. Be
careful if using a chisel not to get hands in the way. Do
they still fit snugly without being
deformed?
Mark out comb joints
Yes?
Yes?
Yes?
Apply wood glue evenly across the
surfaces to be joined. Fit the components together and
then put 2 sash clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is
square in the clamps using a tri square. Clean up any excess wood
glue using a damp cloth to prevent surface damage to
the pine. Have you done this?
Round and smooth edges and corners
Use a half round wood file to
make a slight chamfer on all the edges and
corners to prevent the user from accidentally injury
themselves upon contact. Finish this off by using fine grained sand
paper lightly over the affected areas. Make sure that the shell does not look
deformed (tri square) after and therefore that the edges and
corners have been rounded and smoothed equally. Are
they rounded enough/ not too much
Finish
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?

Manufacturing Plan: Main Body - Outer Shell
Finishing
Start
Yes?
Check dimensions
Clean up any excess material
Make sure there is no dried excess glue visually
spottable. Carefully remove any using the edge of something and/ or a
scribe. Have you done this?
If not, use a wood file and some fine grain sand paper.
Be sure not to over do this stage to keep the shell from looking
distorted. Are the joints flush?
Varnish
Check two times that the measurements are correct
using a tape measure and tri square. Lightly varnish/ bees wax the shell
so that it is protected. Are the measurements correct?
Check that all the joints are flush
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Finish
Yes?
CompartmentSlot
Finish
Yes?
Start
Yes?
Mark out area to be routed
Mark out the shell bottom piece. Check two times
that the measurements are correct using a tape measure and tri
square and a sharp pencil. Are they correct?
Set up the router
Set the depth for all the way through
initially and check with a metal rule. Make sure that the
routing bit is the right dimensions and shape for the sut. Is the
bit correct and the marked out area correct?
Route out the middle of the
bottom section. Be careful to stay within the
marked lines. Be careful to not have loose clothing in the way
and to wear goggles. Keep hand away from cutting area. Has
the router gone all the way through the
material?
2nd Level routing
Repeat the previous step , but this time make the
routing area 5mm wider on each edge and only set the router to go to
half the depth.
Route through
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Check all measurements with a tape
measure and try square. If not correct use a chisel
and mallet to carefully remove any or material. Once done, make sure
that the flat sections are smooth using various grades
of sand paper
NO?

Manufacturing Plan: Drop Down Compartments
Veneering
CombJoints
Join components together
Yes?
then put 2 sash clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is
square in the clamps using a tri square. Clean up any excess wood
glue using a damp cloth to prevent surface damage to
the pine. Have you done this?
Use a half
round wood file to make a
slight chamfer on all the edges and corners
to prevent the user from accidentally injury themselves
upon contact. Finish this off by using fine grained sand paper lightly
over the affected areas. Make sure that the shell does not look
deformed (tri square) after and therefore that the
edges and corners have been rounded
and smoothed equally
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
Measure and mark joined pine to size
tape measure and tri square. Are the measurements correct?
Use band saw to cut the pine planks down to
NO?
NO?
joined. Are they at right angles and match up?
Cut out comb joints
rasping or use a chisel. Be careful not to change the joint
from the markings and that components still fit together snugly. Be
careful if using a chisel not to get hands in the way. o they
still fit snugly without being deformed?
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Square off the ends
Use a flat file and possibly a rasp to make sure
that the pine is square at both end. Check that you do not go
over the marked lines and that you take measurements so that it is the correct
size. Also, use a tri square to confirm this. Are the
measurements still correct?
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
Measure the width and sizes of the exterior of the compartments
metal rule and tri square. Are they correct?
Mark out birch ply
Mark out these dimensions onto the
ply, but makethe top and bottom parts 2mm longer
on each end for the join later on. Check these measurements multiple
times using a metal rule and tri square. Are the
Check
measurements of both
using a metal rule the pine and the
width that the blade will cut each time, using a tape
measure. Be careful when using the saw to not put hands or have
loose clothing go into the mechanisms. Make sure the
ends do not ... Are the measurements
correct?
Veneer pine
then put 2 sash clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is square
in the clamps using a tri square. Clean up any excess wood glue using a
damp cloth to prevent surface damage to the pine.
Have you done this?
Use circular saw to cut the birch ply down to
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Make sure that the edges are flush by lightly using a flat wood file. Be careful not to distort
the shape or go to hard as to ... the edges.
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?

Veneering
RoutingHousingJoints
Finish
Start
Yes?
metal rule and tri square. Are they correct?
Mark out birch ply
Mark out these dimensions onto the
ply, but makethe top and bottom parts 2mm longer
on each end for the join later on. Check these measurements multiple
times using a metal rule and tri square. Are the
Check
measurements of both
using a metal rule the pine and the
width that the blade will cut each time, using a tape
measure. Be careful when using the saw to not put hands or have
loose clothing go into the mechanisms. Make sure the
ends do not ... Are the measurements
correct?
Veneer pine
then put 2 sash clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is square
in the clamps using a tri square. Clean up any excess wood glue using a
damp cloth to prevent surface damage to the pine.
Have you done this?
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Make sure that the edges are flush by lightly using a flat wood file. Be careful not to distort
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?
Finish
Yes?
Start
Yes?
Measure and mark the cutting area
On both side pieces of the compartment, mark
out a 7mm wide channel for the shelves to fit into. Do not go all
the way to the end of the end nearest to the front. Is it
central and measured correctly?
Set up the router
Set the depth for 5mm and check with a
metal rule. Make sure that the routing bit is the right
dimensions and shape for the cut. Is the bit correct and the
marked out area correct?
NO?
NO?
Route
Route out the channel. Check all
measurements with a tape measure and try
square. If not correct use a chisel and mallet to carefully
remove any or material. Once done, make sure that the flat
sections are smooth using various grades of
sand paper
NO?
Yes?

CompartmentBack
CompartmentShelves
Finish
Start
Yes?
Mark cable holes
Using a large tri square, a pencil and a metal
rule, mark where the centre point of the holes will be onto the
compartment back piece. Are they in line with each other
and in the right place?
Centre punch
Where the holes are to be drilled, centre punch the centre
point to prevent the drill from slipping. Is it central?
clamp down the back piece in place
with a couple of G-clamps and some scrap wood (to
prevent damage). Make sure the hole saw bit is secured in the
chuck. Make sure googles are worn and all loose items are out of
the way. Drill out the holes. Has the hole saw gone
all he way through the material?
Check measurements
Check all measurements using a rule and tri square and check the
diammeter of the holes with a venier calliper
Hole saw
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?
Start
Yes?
Measure and mark pine planks to size
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Finish

Manufacturing Plan: Speakers/Side Units
FormAcrylic
CreateJig
Dowel holes
Yes?
Use a pillar drill to cut at least 4 holes of 6mm
diammeter in both halves of the chipboard/MDF. Make sure
these are not in the way of the edges or distorting the shape. Make sure
all loose items are tied back and goggles and the guard are
on.
Dowel
Cut at least 4 pieces of 7mm dowel to 540mm using a bench
hook and tennon saw. Make sure bench hook is secure in the vice and that
hands to not get caught by tenon saw.
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
CAD
Use 2D design to create a template of the jig. Make sure to
check measurements and that they are in the right units.
Laser cutter
Export the 2D design template to the
laser cutter. Place any acrylic that is big enough onto
the ... Run the program. Make sure that machine has been calibrated
and that the cooling system is on. Make sure the lid
is closed.
NO?
NO?
Use a band saw to cut the chipboard/MDF markings.
Be careful not to put hands in the way of the blade, loose clothing and
hair are tied back and that goggles are worn.
Finish jig sides
Re-stick the template onto the chipboard/
MDF. Use a wood file to get the chipboard/MDF to the correct
size. Make sure the edges coming into contact with the
acrylic are smooth and free from dirt
Cut chipboard/MDF
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Mark out chipboard/MDF
Use double sided tape to tape two pieces of
chipboard/MDF together to create 2 sides of jig. Use double sided
tape and stick the templates onto chipboard/MDF. Use a sharp pencil to
accurately draw around the template
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
Setting up
Place the
half of the jig with the
concave curved side into a vice. This is to
make the forming easier. Plug a heat gun into a nearby
plug, but keep the cable out of the way to prevent melting the
insulating sleeve by mistake and causing shock or
fire. Have the other half of the
jig handy nearby
CAD
Use 2D design to mark out the acrylic of both speaker
units to the exact size. Make sure to check measurements and that
they are in the right units.
Export the 2D design template to the
laser cutter. Place 4mm white acrylic that is big
enough onto the ... Run the program. Make sure that machine has
been calibrated and that the cooling system is on.
Make sure the lid is closed.
Form Acrylic
Place one strip of the
laser cut acrylic across the half of the
jig in the vice. Switch on the heat gun and heat up the
acrylic evenly until it starts to become very flexible. Be sure not to hold
the heat gun in one spot to prevent bubbles or burning (and hands!)from occurring.
Quickly force the other half of the jig into the acrylic. Use a reasonable weight
to keep the pressure on the to of the jig whilst the acrylic
cools. Be wary not to cause cracks by putting
the jig together squarely.
Laser cutter
Yes?
Yes?
Remove acrylic
Once cool remove acrylic from jig. Use a rule and use visual judgments to
check that the acrylic has not warped, webbed or distorted in shape.
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?
Finish jig
Separate the two pieces
of chipboard/MDF/ Apply some wood
glue to the holes in the jig. Place the end of a dowel into
the hole and lightly tap in firmly with a wooden mallet. Do this for all
the holes and then do the same with the other side of the
chipboard/MDF. Make sure that the jig stays square
by using tri squares and a metal rule (to
check measurements
Yes?
NO?

Manufacturing Plan: Speakers/Side Units
WireSpeakers
CreateInternalFrame
Side piece
Yes?
There should be a small section cut out of the side
piece during the laser cutting. This is for the speaker jack leads to go
through into the product main body. Check that the relevant cable
will fit through easily
Unit mount
Also during the laser cutting 4 small keyhole
shaped holes should be cut out. This is for the speaker/shelf
units to hook onto the main body securely without falling off. Check that
the screws will fit through the larger hole and not through the
small hole.
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
CAD
If the jig template does not fit snugly with the
curvature of the acrylic, use 2D design to create another
template based on the new dimensions to create the speaker
mount and back piece and side
Laser cutter
Export the 2D design
template to the laser cutter. Place 4mm (for
side) and 2mm (for rest) acrylic that is big enough onto the ...
Run the program. Make sure that machine has been calibrated
and that the cooling system is on. Make sure
the lid is closed.
NO?
NO?
Cut some off cut pine to 15mm
x10mmx70mm using a tenon saw and bench
hook. Make sure bench hook is secure in the vice and that hands
to not get caught by tenon saw. Use the back piece as a template to mark the
pine to the correct curvature. Use a jig saw to create the curvature on the
pine pieces. Stick into place on the main acrylic using araldite.
Be careful not to inhale or touch the araldite
mixture
Check measurements
Check that the back piece slots in so that it is
flush with the edges of the main acrylic. It should be removable
for future maintenance. Make sure speaker mount fits
correctly.
Internal mount pieces
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Check measurements
Check visually that the pieces all fit into place
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
Speaker mount
Check that the hole for the bell of the speaker and its wires
will fit through the laser cut hole in the speaker mount.
Speaker mount holes
Using a pillar
drill and hand vice drill 4 2mm
holes through the mount piece where the
speaker mounting holes are positioned. Use plenty of lubricant
to prevent the acrylic from melting and distorting.
Make sure all loose items are tied back and goggles
and the guard are on.
Use 4 2mm screws to fix the speaker to the
mount through the previously cut pilot holes using a hand
screw driver. Be careful not to screw it down too hard so that
the acrylic does not crack
Solder
Solder the relevant wires in place, that
connect the speaker to the jack lead. Make sure that the join is
as neat as possible to ensure that the connection is strong and won’t fall off. Be
careful not to inhale the lead solder fumes or touch the hot end
of the soldering iron.
Fix speaker to mount
Yes?
Yes?
Fix mount in place
Use some Tensol-12 in a syringe. With
the mount in place, lightly ,squeeze the syringe to cause
capillary action on the mount internal curvature of the main acrylic.
Make sure it is secure. It is not a big problem if it is not perfectly
square, but try to get it as square as possible. Do not
inhale or touch the Tensol-12
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?

Manufacturing Plan: Wall Bracket
Finishing
MIGWelding
Set up the welding equipment
Yes?
Use right angled magnets to secure a tube to a strip.
Make sure the MIG machine is set up to the correct temperature,
feed rate and that the argon is turned on. When welding be careful
not to cause “pigeon droppings.”
MIG weld
Connect
the crocodile clip to the
strip to create a connection. Feed about
an inch of wire out. Make sure the equipment is on.
Carefully touch the wire to the area to be welded. Move the wire
around the channel to create the weld. Repeat for all tubing. Make
sure to wear the leathers and a MIG visor and gloves.
Make sure that the tubing is still 90o
after the weld using a tri
square
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
Mark out mild steel
Use a tape measure, tri square and scribe to measure the mild
steel strips and tubing to size
Cut the mild steel to size
Use a band saw to cut the mild steel strips
and tubing to size. Make sure that you cut just outside
marked lines. Keep loose clothing and hair and hands away
from the blade and moving parts and wear
goggles
NO?
NO?
Make sure the strips are the correct length by using a
tape measure, tri square and a flat metal file. Clean up the area for
the weld
Mark and drill mounting holes
Mark
6 holes per strip for the
bracket to be mounted to the wall. Use a
scribe and centre punch to prepare the strip for drilling.
Drill all the way through using a 3mm bit. Use a countersink bit to make the
wall screws flush with the bracket. Clean up the edges using a half round
and need file. Be careful not to get hands in the way.
Make sure goggles are worn and all
loose items are tied
back
Prepare strip for welding
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Prepare for tubing for welding
File off the ends of the mild
steel tubing with a flat metal file to the
correct length (using a tape measure and tri square). Then use a
half round metal file to chamfer one end to create a channel for the weld to
form. Clean up the end using coarse grained emery cloth to fine
grained. This creates a clean surface for the
weld
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
Grinding
Carefully grind down the welds where there is
an excess of...
Wear a MIG visor and leathers to protect yourself from the
resultant sparks
Filing
Use a round needle file to make the weld even neater
Use various grades of emery cloth to clean up
the entire structure. This should remove any oxygenated
parts near the welds. It should also prepare the surface for a
further finish
Check measurements
Check all of the measurements, using a tape measure and tri square.
Make sure all the tubing is at a 90o.
Clean up
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Lay the structure on some
newspaper in a well ventilated area. wear an
apron, googles and a face mask to prevent inhalation of
solvents. Spray the structure with black spray paint (car paint). Leave to dry
and then do the other side. Do this 2 or 3 times to create an
even and smooth finish that will extend the
life of the structure
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?

Manufacturing Plan: Drop Down Mechanism
PulleyMechanism
UnitShell
Yes?
Apply wood glue evenly across the surfaces to
be joined. Fit the components together and then put 2 sash
clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is square in the clamps using
a tri square. Clean up any excess wood glue using a damp cloth
to prevent surface damage to the pine
Use a half
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
tape measure and tri square
Check measurements of both the pine and the
width that the blade will cut each time, using a tape measure.
Be careful when using the saw to not put hands or have loose
clothing go into the mechanisms
NO?
NO?
joined.
Cut out comb joints
rasping or use a chisel. Be careful not to change the joint from
the markings and that components still fit together snugly.
Be careful if using a chisel not to get hands in
the way
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Square off the ends
Use a flat file and possibly a rasp to make sure that the
pine is square at both end. Check that you do not go over the marked
lines and that you take measurements so that it is the correct size.
Also, use a tri square to confirm this.
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
metal rule and tri square
Mark out birch ply
Mark out these dimensions onto the ply, but
makethe top and bottom parts 2mm longer on each end for
the join later on. Check these measurements multiple times
using a metal rule and tri square
Check measurements of both using
a metal rule the pine and the width that the blade
will cut each time, using a tape measure. Be careful when using the
saw to not put hands or have loose clothing go into the
mechanisms. Make sure the ends do not
Veneer pine
Make sure both surfaces to be joined
are free from dirt. Apply wood Glue evenly across both
surfaces. Apply ply to the correct sides of the pine and then use a G-
clamp across both sides. Make sure you use some scrap MDF to prevent
impressions and also that the excess glue is cleaned up
with a damp cloth
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Make sure that the edges are flush by lightly using a flat woo file. Be careful not to distort
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?

Manufacturing Plan: Assembly
Fixing
Wiring
Yes?
Apply wood glue evenly across the surfaces to
be joined. Fit the components together and then put 2 sash
clamps across each joint. Be sure that the shell is square in the clamps using
a tri square. Clean up any excess wood glue using a damp cloth
to prevent surface damage to the pine
Use a half
Finish
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Start
Yes?
tape measure and tri square
Check measurements of both the pine and the
width that the blade will cut each time, using a tape measure.
Be careful when using the saw to not put hands or have loose
clothing go into the mechanisms
NO?
NO?
joined.
Cut out comb joints
rasping or use a chisel. Be careful not to change the joint from
the markings and that components still fit together snugly.
Be careful if using a chisel not to get hands in
the way
Yes?
Yes?
NO?
NO?
Square off the ends
Use a flat file and possibly a rasp to make sure that the
pine is square at both end. Check that you do not go over the marked
lines and that you take measurements so that it is the correct size.
Also, use a tri square to confirm this.
NO?
Finish
Start
Yes?
metal rule and tri square
Mark out birch ply
Mark out these dimensions onto the ply, but
makethe top and bottom parts 2mm longer on each end for
the join later on. Check these measurements multiple times
using a metal rule and tri square
Check measurements of both using
a metal rule the pine and the width that the blade
will cut each time, using a tape measure. Be careful when using the
saw to not put hands or have loose clothing go into the
mechanisms. Make sure the ends do not
Veneer pine
Make sure both surfaces to be joined
are free from dirt. Apply wood Glue evenly across both
surfaces. Apply ply to the correct sides of the pine and then use a G-
clamp across both sides. Make sure you use some scrap MDF to prevent
impressions and also that the excess glue is cleaned up
with a damp cloth
Yes?
Yes?
Finishing
Make sure that the edges are flush by lightly using a flat woo file. Be careful not to distort
Yes?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
NO?
Yes?

Date Task to be Completed (Predicted) Date Task Actually Completed (Actual)
Exam Period Holiday PeriodGaant Chart
Weeks Week 1 Week 2 Week 3 Week 4 Week 5 Week 6 Week 7 Week 8 Week 9
Tasks dates 7/1/13 14/1/13 21/1/13 28/1/13 4/2/13 11/2/13 18/2/13 25/2/13 1/3/13
Mounting Bracket Predicted
Forming Actual
Mounting Bracket Predicted
Drilling Actual
Bracket Pin Predicted
Milling Actual
Bracket Pin Predicted
Drilling and Finishing Actual
Locking Pin Predicted
Forming Actual
Main Body Predicted
Marking Comb Joints Actual
Main Body Predicted
Cutting Comb Joints Actual
Main Body Predicted
Adjusting Joints Actual
Main Body Predicted
Cutting Compartment Slot Actual
Main Body Predicted
Adjusting Compartment Slot Actual

Weeks Week 10 Week 11 Week 12 Week 13 Week 14 Week 15 Week 16 Week 17 Week 18
Tasks dates 1/3/13 8/3/13 15/3/13 22/3/13 29/3/13 6/4/13 13/4/13 20/4/13 27/4/13
Main Body Predicted
Assembly/Finishing Actual
Speakers/Side Units Predicted
Create Frames Actual
Amplifier Predicted
Wiring Actual
Amplifier Predicted
Laser Cutter Actual
Speakers Predicted
Mounting Actual
Wiring Predicted
All Components Actual
Drop Down Compartment Predicted
Comb Joints Actual
Drop Down Compartment Predicted
Assembly/Finishing Actual
Speakers Predicted
HIPS Actual
Modifications Predicted
Modifications Actual

Weeks Week 19 Week 20
Tasks dates 4/5/13 11/5/13
Testing and Evaluation Predicted
Testing and Evaluation Actual
Finishing
Finishing Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual
Predicted
Actual

Cutting List- Final
Student Olli Derham
House Sutton ALL IN MM
Form U6th
Amount Material Description Length Width Thickness Letter
2 MDF Sides 636 400 18 A
1 MDF Top (Front) 850 100 18 B
1 MDF Top (Back) 850 300 18 C
1 MDF Screen Mount 832 618 18 D
1 MDF Comp. Back 712 252 18 E
1 MDF Bottom 850 400 18 F
2 MDF Comp. Sides 270 266 6 G
1 MDF Comp. Top 712 280 6 H
1 MDF Comp. Bottom 722 290 6 I
Total £80

A
B
D
C
A
= Grain Direction
E
Cutting Plan - MDF Oak Veneer 18mm (2440x1220)
F

305mm
77mm
routed groove
18wide, 9deep
Need slot routed/ cut for both A
pieces. Ignore the cut out bit at the
top
A 280mm
712mm
90mm (just before routed edge)
F(top)
F(bottom)
77mm
290mm
722mm
routed inset, 9mm deep, 5mm wide

E5mm
123mm 175mm
G
130mm
265mm
5mm
All three sets of grooves to be
routed to 3mm deep and 6mm wide

Cutting Plan - MDF Oak Veneer 6mm (2440x1220)
I
H
G G
= Grain Direction

Safety
measures
Eye Protection
Skin Protection
Respiratory
protection
General
awareness
Evaluation of danger
levels of situation,
Gloves
Goggles
Mask,
increased ventilation
Working with
blades
Elevated level
of alertness
Marking
Sawing
Sanding
Dovetailing
Biscuit Joining
Safety PrecautionsTasks What it will effect
Make sure equipment is clean
Personal Safety/mistake prevention
Other’s Safety
Test/practice with
equipment

Safety
measures
Eye Protection
Skin Protection
Respiratory
protection
General
awareness
Evaluation of danger
levels of situation,
Gloves
Goggles
Mask,
increased
Working with
blades
Elevated level
of alertness
Routing
Gluing
Polishing
Other
Safety PrecautionsTasks What it will effect
Varnish/Staining
Make sure equipment is clean
Personal Safety/mistake prevention
Other’s Safety
Test/practice with
equipment
Thermal Forming

Quality Control Text
Safety Control Text
Manufacturing Log

Manufacturing: Mounting Bracket
On a sheet of aluminium, mark out a rectangle
150mmx80mm using an engineering square and a scribe.
Use a fine liner to help define the scribe mark
Use a hack saw to cut down the straight edges Use a metal file to smooth the edges to remove the
hazard of cutting yourself
Cut 4 edges (50mm in height) at 45 degrees to the
horizontal
File off the burr to smooth the edges With 2 centre points marked the quadrants use a
centre punch to define the point at which the drill will
cut
Use a pillar drill to drill 2 M5 holes at the marked
points
Practice using the former to create the 90 degree
angle needed
With the actual bracket now form the 2 triangular
areas at 90 degrees to the middle section
Using a 50mmx50mm piece of scrap wood, place it in
between the two sides. This will support the bracket
whilst you mark a point 20 mm from the top point
and centre punch it.
With the aluminium still on the block, use the pillar
drill to drill through the marked point. Use a straight
object to make sure that both holes are lined up
Check for any deformities and whether there are any
dangerous edges

Manufacturing: Bracket Pin
Take a steel rod of 12mm in diammeter of at least 150mm
in length
Check the diammeter is correct using a set of vernier
calipers
Place the rod in the headstock of the lathe and tighten
with a chuck key (remember to remove it after!). Use
the centre drill in the headstock to create a centre
reference point
Once the centre drill has been used the rotating
centre can be firmly locked into place inside the
centre hole. This reduces wobble and therefore will
increase the accuracy of the lathe work
Use the cutting tool in the tool post to start reducing
the diammeter of the rod across a 70mm length. By
reversing the gearing
Keep using the venrier calipers to check that the
diammeter does not go lower than 6mm
To prevent over heating and to produce a cleaner cut
use coolant
Once the cut end is 6mm in diammeter use the facing
tool to cut the rod with a 10mm large end. Face off
both end to create a clean finish
Use a 2mm drill bit, with the rod in a hand vice, to
drill all the way through the 6mm end about 15mm
from the end
Place the actuator in the hand vice and use a 6mm
drill bit to widen the hole at the end
File off any burr created during the drilling process
using a flat hand file
The finished component

Manufacturing: Bracket Locking Pin
Manufacturing: Mechanism Load Test 1
Make sure that it fits snuggly into the hole drilled
earlier. the bend should lock it into place without it
sliding off. Make sure to file and round off the
edges of the wire to prevent injury
The finished componentWith a 1.5mm thick length of wire, use a
former to bend it into an s shape with a flat
edge
With the actuator securely fitted with safety
goggles and equipment on clamp a few
weights to the wood
By connecting the wires of the actuator temporarily to an
external power supply test the up and down movement of
the actuator. Make sure to look out for mechanical failure
(also heard by noise made)
Mount the bracket onto a test piece of wood

Manufacturing: Main Body
Take on of the larger sheets of the MDF
(850mmx400mmx18mm) and check the
measurements with a tape measure. Whilst doing this
also make sure that it is square by using a large try
square
Measure 18mm out from the shorter
edges
At this point, use a rule and try square
to draw a line parallel to the edge, the
full length of the side
At 50mm intervals draw perpendicular
lines using a try square. These will become
the comb joints.
Repeat the process of drawing a line
parallel to the short edge of one of the
sheets of MDF (650mmx400mmx18mm)
Again, using a try square draw
perpendicular lines at 50mm
intervals
Use the try square on the now marked 2 sheets to
draw perpendicular lines from the marked points, to
distinguish the edges. Shade in the parts to be cut.
Make sure that they are alternate with each other to
create the comb joints at the end
Place the other MDF sheet
(650mmx400mmx18mm) end on with
the marked one
Repeat the process of drawing a parallel
line the full length. Mark the perpendicular
lines in using a try square. This should
help match the joints
Make sure that they match with each other Finish by shading the parts on the top of the
sheets to show the parts to be cut
On the top edge piece, repeat the same process. The
only difference is that only 2 comb joints will be made
on both sides

Position the component so that one edge
overhangs the work bench
Use the band saw to cut the vertical lines accurately,
making sure all safety equipment is on and that hands
are not in the vicinity of the moving blade. Then use a
coping saw to cut out the middle of each joint,
making sure not to go over the marked lines
Use a flat file to make the joints
square
Use a needle file to modify the joints
so that each component will join
snuggly
Before cutting the next component, check
that the markings still correspond to the
cut joints
Use a large try square to mark a line
20mm from one edge and 90mm from the
other
Repeat this again, but this time
mark a line 65mm from both edges
Check that the lines are perpendicular The lines
On the inside corners of the newly drawn
rectangle, centre punch a reasonable
distance from the corner
Use a hand drill and a 8mm bit to drill a
hole at each corner
A hole
Manufacturing: Main Body

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