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Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign : Case studies in the textile supply chain 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski February 2014
1. EcoMundo 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Triple expertise 
Ecodesign expertise 
Software expertise 
2001 
2007 
Projects 
EDIT 
ECODIS 
EcoMundo 
is launched 
Regulatory 
expertise 
Multidisciplinary team 
35 engineers of which 9 PhD 
for innovative solutions 
International presence 
Paris & Vancouver 
2014 
Supply Chain specialist 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
2. Services 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Regulatory expertise 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
3. Software 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
The ‘REACH Factory’ suite 
EcoMundo has designed several innovative web tools 
Workers safety 
Regulated use of substances 
GHS / CLP compliance 
SVHC Traceability 
Use cases collection 
Safety Data Sheet Management 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
4. Ecodesign 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Eco-design integrated supply chain 
Our eco-design expertise 
•Environmental Assessment (LCA / SLCA) 
•Data collection and LCA database modeling 
•Software development (Simplified LCA tools) 
•Environmental innovation 
Worgroups: REACH SVHC and, LCA, eco-innovation ... 
40 members: multi-sectoral industrial club 
Objective: Develop a non-competitive research in the field of eco-design of products and recycling 
EcoMundo participated in the editing of the guide "Life Cycle Analysis - A tool for quantifying environmental service of your strategy." www.clustercreer.eu 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
CORINE platform 
Web solution 
Collaborative tools involving supply chain actors 
Technical, environmental and economical data 
Educational and intuitive approach 
ILCD database format 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
5. Textile case studies 
Introduction 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Plan 
Introduction 
•Consumer request 
•Market trends 
•Forewords on chemicals and regulations 
•Thinking about EU ? 
•Life cycle thinking 
3 cases of products sold and used in Europe 
•Cotton T-shirt from India 
•Polyester Sweat from Europe 
•Cashmere coat from China 
Conclusion : how to go forward ? 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Consumer expectations 
71% 
? 
ready to pay more for more sustainable products 
56% 
asking more information on manufacture production 
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February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Market trends 
Organic cotton 
World market: from 6,8 billions $ in 
2011 to 8,9 in 2012 +31 % 
World production: from 151,000 tons 
to 139,000 (2011-2012) -8% 
=> Demand higher than supply 
European Ecolabel 
From 340 to 420 products from 2011 to 2012 +22% 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Forewords on Chemicals and regulations 
Cloth 
Manufacture 
End of life 
Chemicals are extensively and growingly used in textiles (+20% chemical fibres since 1991) and at nearly every stage of the product life cycle. 
42,8 
26,4 
3,5 
1,2 
World production (MT) 
Synthetic 
chemical fibres 
Natural 
vegetal fibres 
Artificial 
chemical fibres 
Natural animal 
fibres 
•It is difficult to know which hazardous chemicals, if any, are present in textiles because supply chains are long, complex and heterogeneous (lots of SMEs) 
•There is no unified legislation at the EU level. 
•Legislations throughout the world do not match. 
•There are however voluntary labels and retrictions. 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Thinking about EU ? 
TEXTILES 
REACH (1907/2006) and CLP (1272/2008) regulations 
Labelling and marking of fibres Regulation 1007/2011 
Etc. 
Biocides Products Regulation 528/2012 
General Product Safety Directive 2001/95 
Industrial Emissions Directive 2010/75 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Life cycle thinking 
Main steps of a 
textile product 
Fibres 
Cloth 
Manufacture 
Use 
End of life 
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February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
5. Textile case studies 
3 examples 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case studies 
Case 
1 
Cotton T-shirt 
2 
Polyester Sweat 
3 
Cashmere Coat 
Nature 
Textile production 
Natural vegetal Fibres 
36% 
26,4 Mt 
Chemical Fibres 
62% 
42,8 Mt 
(artificial Fibres included) 
Natural animal Fibres 
2% 
1,2 Mt 
Main origin 
1.China 
2.India 
1.Asia 
2.Europe 
1.China 
2.Mongolia 
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February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt 
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February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt 
Fibres & Cloth - India 
Cotton plantation & Washing Fibres 
Weaving & Fashioning 
Chemical regulation 
-Insecticides Act, 1968 and Insecticides Rules, 1971 -> list of pesticides banned for manufacture, import and use 
-Ban of Azo dyes chemicals since June 23, 1997. 
EcoDesign 
-No pesticide class 1 (ex : Endosulfan) 
-Low hydric stress region 
-Low water use 
-Install wastewater treatment or select supplier having one 
-Low sizing use 
-Install counter flow washing systems 
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February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt 
Manufacture, Use & End of life - Europe 
Finishing and distribution 
Use and end of life 
EcoDesign 
-Loss reduction and reuse 
-Select low weight packaging with recycled material 
-Low temperature washing product 
-Assess product environmental performance 
-Best practice advice to users 
-Recovery service 
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Chemical regulation 
-Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles 
-Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles 
-Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009) 
-Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II) 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 2 : Polyester sweat 
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Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 2 : Polyester sweat 
Fibres - Europe 
Petrol extraction 
Fibre synthesis 
EcoDesign 
-Use recycled Fibres 
-Reduce VOC emissions during spinning 
-Reduce Antimony content 
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Chemical regulation 
-Registration under REACH – art.6.3 
-IED (Industrial Emissions directive) : it includes the IPPC (directive on integrated Pollution Prevention and Control) 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 2 : Polyester sweat 
Cloth – Europe 
Fashioning 
Distribution, use and end of life 
EcoDesign 
-No use of halogenated dye carriers 
-No use of phtalate or PVC 
-(…) 
-Recycling service (use mono- materials) 
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Chemical regulation - Application of annex XIV and XVII of REACH as well as the candidate list. 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 3 : Cashmere Coat 
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February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 3 : Cashmere Coat 
Fibres - China 
Breeding 
Knitting 
Chemical regulation 
-Decree 591 (2011) : Regulations on Safe Management of Hazardous Chemicals 
EcoDesign 
-No desertification area 
-Washing without organochlorines but with biodegradable detergent 
-No mineral oil (with hydrocarbons) prefer vegetal oils 
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February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Case 3 : Cashmere Coat 
Cloth - Europe 
Fashioning 
Distribution, use and end of life 
Chemical regulation 
-Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles 
-Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles 
-Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009) 
-Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II) 
EcoDesign 
-For small productions, chose transfer or numerical printing 
-(…) 
-No change after washing 
-Repair service 
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February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
5. Textile case studies 
How to go forward ? 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
The case of chemicals (1) 
Why going forward with chemical regulations ? 
Anticipate clients’ questions 
Anticipate bans 
Protect your own legal responsibility and avoid penalties 
Take opportunity to ensure higher quality 
Preserve your brand image 
Innovate 
Use it as a marketing opportunity 
Preserve your supply flow 
Protect the health of your employees 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
The case of chemicals (2) 
How to go forward with the traceability of substances ? 
A difficulty : as often, the persons who are in the best position to provide the information at the best cost (i.e. at the lesser cost) are the most remoted from the pressure of clients and do not want to do so. Two strategies exist to retrieve information : 
Article 
Materials 
Substances 
Top- bottom approach 
Article 
Materials 
Substances 
Bottom-up approach 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
How to go forward ? 
Fibres 
Cloth 
Manufacture 
Use 
End of life 
Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com 
Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ 
Main steps of a 
textile product 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
How to go forward ? 
Case 1 : frugality 
•Fibres of recycled cotton 
•Use of modular apparel 
•Second hand market 
The original Versalette by Seamly.co 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
How to go forward ? 
Case 2 : technology 
•Trying apparel before use 
•Production with no loss and avoiding fad 
•Use of human mechanical energy to produce electricity 
•Self-cleaning apparel 
•No ironing needs 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
How to go forward ? 
Case 3 : fashion rental service 
•Apparel location program 
•Developing local shops 
•Integrated repair chain 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
www.ecomundo.eu 
Contact Head office Paris, FRANCE 195, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux FRANCE Téléphone : +33 1 83 64 20 54 Email : contact@ecomundo.eu
Annexes 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles 
February 2014 
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski 
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain

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Chemical regulation & opportunities for EcoDesign - Case studies in textile Supply Chain - February 2014

  • 1. Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign : Case studies in the textile supply chain P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski February 2014
  • 2. 1. EcoMundo February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 3. Triple expertise Ecodesign expertise Software expertise 2001 2007 Projects EDIT ECODIS EcoMundo is launched Regulatory expertise Multidisciplinary team 35 engineers of which 9 PhD for innovative solutions International presence Paris & Vancouver 2014 Supply Chain specialist February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 4. 2. Services February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 5. Regulatory expertise February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 6. 3. Software February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 7. The ‘REACH Factory’ suite EcoMundo has designed several innovative web tools Workers safety Regulated use of substances GHS / CLP compliance SVHC Traceability Use cases collection Safety Data Sheet Management Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 8. 4. Ecodesign February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 9. Eco-design integrated supply chain Our eco-design expertise •Environmental Assessment (LCA / SLCA) •Data collection and LCA database modeling •Software development (Simplified LCA tools) •Environmental innovation Worgroups: REACH SVHC and, LCA, eco-innovation ... 40 members: multi-sectoral industrial club Objective: Develop a non-competitive research in the field of eco-design of products and recycling EcoMundo participated in the editing of the guide "Life Cycle Analysis - A tool for quantifying environmental service of your strategy." www.clustercreer.eu February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 10. CORINE platform Web solution Collaborative tools involving supply chain actors Technical, environmental and economical data Educational and intuitive approach ILCD database format February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 11. 5. Textile case studies Introduction February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 12. Plan Introduction •Consumer request •Market trends •Forewords on chemicals and regulations •Thinking about EU ? •Life cycle thinking 3 cases of products sold and used in Europe •Cotton T-shirt from India •Polyester Sweat from Europe •Cashmere coat from China Conclusion : how to go forward ? February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 13. Consumer expectations 71% ? ready to pay more for more sustainable products 56% asking more information on manufacture production Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 14. Market trends Organic cotton World market: from 6,8 billions $ in 2011 to 8,9 in 2012 +31 % World production: from 151,000 tons to 139,000 (2011-2012) -8% => Demand higher than supply European Ecolabel From 340 to 420 products from 2011 to 2012 +22% February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 15. Forewords on Chemicals and regulations Cloth Manufacture End of life Chemicals are extensively and growingly used in textiles (+20% chemical fibres since 1991) and at nearly every stage of the product life cycle. 42,8 26,4 3,5 1,2 World production (MT) Synthetic chemical fibres Natural vegetal fibres Artificial chemical fibres Natural animal fibres •It is difficult to know which hazardous chemicals, if any, are present in textiles because supply chains are long, complex and heterogeneous (lots of SMEs) •There is no unified legislation at the EU level. •Legislations throughout the world do not match. •There are however voluntary labels and retrictions. February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 16. Thinking about EU ? TEXTILES REACH (1907/2006) and CLP (1272/2008) regulations Labelling and marking of fibres Regulation 1007/2011 Etc. Biocides Products Regulation 528/2012 General Product Safety Directive 2001/95 Industrial Emissions Directive 2010/75 February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 17. Life cycle thinking Main steps of a textile product Fibres Cloth Manufacture Use End of life Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution- Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 18. 5. Textile case studies 3 examples February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 19. Case studies Case 1 Cotton T-shirt 2 Polyester Sweat 3 Cashmere Coat Nature Textile production Natural vegetal Fibres 36% 26,4 Mt Chemical Fibres 62% 42,8 Mt (artificial Fibres included) Natural animal Fibres 2% 1,2 Mt Main origin 1.China 2.India 1.Asia 2.Europe 1.China 2.Mongolia Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 20. Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 21. Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt Fibres & Cloth - India Cotton plantation & Washing Fibres Weaving & Fashioning Chemical regulation -Insecticides Act, 1968 and Insecticides Rules, 1971 -> list of pesticides banned for manufacture, import and use -Ban of Azo dyes chemicals since June 23, 1997. EcoDesign -No pesticide class 1 (ex : Endosulfan) -Low hydric stress region -Low water use -Install wastewater treatment or select supplier having one -Low sizing use -Install counter flow washing systems Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 22. Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt Manufacture, Use & End of life - Europe Finishing and distribution Use and end of life EcoDesign -Loss reduction and reuse -Select low weight packaging with recycled material -Low temperature washing product -Assess product environmental performance -Best practice advice to users -Recovery service Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Chemical regulation -Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles -Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles -Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009) -Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II) February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 23. Case 2 : Polyester sweat Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 24. Case 2 : Polyester sweat Fibres - Europe Petrol extraction Fibre synthesis EcoDesign -Use recycled Fibres -Reduce VOC emissions during spinning -Reduce Antimony content Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Chemical regulation -Registration under REACH – art.6.3 -IED (Industrial Emissions directive) : it includes the IPPC (directive on integrated Pollution Prevention and Control) February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 25. Case 2 : Polyester sweat Cloth – Europe Fashioning Distribution, use and end of life EcoDesign -No use of halogenated dye carriers -No use of phtalate or PVC -(…) -Recycling service (use mono- materials) Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Chemical regulation - Application of annex XIV and XVII of REACH as well as the candidate list. February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 26. Case 3 : Cashmere Coat Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 27. Case 3 : Cashmere Coat Fibres - China Breeding Knitting Chemical regulation -Decree 591 (2011) : Regulations on Safe Management of Hazardous Chemicals EcoDesign -No desertification area -Washing without organochlorines but with biodegradable detergent -No mineral oil (with hydrocarbons) prefer vegetal oils Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 28. Case 3 : Cashmere Coat Cloth - Europe Fashioning Distribution, use and end of life Chemical regulation -Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles -Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles -Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009) -Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II) EcoDesign -For small productions, chose transfer or numerical printing -(…) -No change after washing -Repair service Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 29. 5. Textile case studies How to go forward ? February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 30. The case of chemicals (1) Why going forward with chemical regulations ? Anticipate clients’ questions Anticipate bans Protect your own legal responsibility and avoid penalties Take opportunity to ensure higher quality Preserve your brand image Innovate Use it as a marketing opportunity Preserve your supply flow Protect the health of your employees February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 31. The case of chemicals (2) How to go forward with the traceability of substances ? A difficulty : as often, the persons who are in the best position to provide the information at the best cost (i.e. at the lesser cost) are the most remoted from the pressure of clients and do not want to do so. Two strategies exist to retrieve information : Article Materials Substances Top- bottom approach Article Materials Substances Bottom-up approach February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 32. How to go forward ? Fibres Cloth Manufacture Use End of life Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/ Main steps of a textile product February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 33. How to go forward ? Case 1 : frugality •Fibres of recycled cotton •Use of modular apparel •Second hand market The original Versalette by Seamly.co February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 34. How to go forward ? Case 2 : technology •Trying apparel before use •Production with no loss and avoiding fad •Use of human mechanical energy to produce electricity •Self-cleaning apparel •No ironing needs February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 35. How to go forward ? Case 3 : fashion rental service •Apparel location program •Developing local shops •Integrated repair chain February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 36. www.ecomundo.eu Contact Head office Paris, FRANCE 195, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux FRANCE Téléphone : +33 1 83 64 20 54 Email : contact@ecomundo.eu
  • 37. Annexes February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 38. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 39. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 40. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 41. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 42. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 43. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain
  • 44. Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain