Chemical regulation & opportunities for EcoDesign - Case studies in textile Supply Chain - February 2014

Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign : Case studies in the textile supply chain
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski February 2014

1. EcoMundo
February 2014
P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski
Chemical regulations & opportunities for Ecodesign: Case studies in the textile supply chain

Triple expertise
Ecodesign expertise
Software expertise
2001
2007
Projects
EDIT
ECODIS
EcoMundo
is launched
Regulatory
expertise
Multidisciplinary team
35 engineers of which 9 PhD
for innovative solutions
International presence
Paris & Vancouver
2014
Supply Chain specialist
February 2014

2. Services
February 2014

Regulatory expertise
February 2014

3. Software
February 2014

The ‘REACH Factory’ suite
EcoMundo has designed several innovative web tools
Workers safety
Regulated use of substances
GHS / CLP compliance
SVHC Traceability
Use cases collection
Safety Data Sheet Management

4. Ecodesign
February 2014

Eco-design integrated supply chain
Our eco-design expertise
•Environmental Assessment (LCA / SLCA)
•Data collection and LCA database modeling
•Software development (Simplified LCA tools)
•Environmental innovation
Worgroups: REACH SVHC and, LCA, eco-innovation ...
40 members: multi-sectoral industrial club
Objective: Develop a non-competitive research in the field of eco-design of products and recycling
EcoMundo participated in the editing of the guide "Life Cycle Analysis - A tool for quantifying environmental service of your strategy." www.clustercreer.eu
February 2014

CORINE platform
Web solution
Collaborative tools involving supply chain actors
Technical, environmental and economical data
Educational and intuitive approach
ILCD database format
February 2014

5. Textile case studies
Introduction
February 2014 P. Drapeau & B. Kosinski

Plan
Introduction
•Consumer request
•Market trends
•Forewords on chemicals and regulations
•Thinking about EU ?
•Life cycle thinking
3 cases of products sold and used in Europe
•Cotton T-shirt from India
•Polyester Sweat from Europe
•Cashmere coat from China
Conclusion : how to go forward ?

Consumer expectations
71%
?
ready to pay more for more sustainable products
56%
asking more information on manufacture production
Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com

Market trends
Organic cotton
World market: from 6,8 billions $ in
2011 to 8,9 in 2012 +31 %
World production: from 151,000 tons
to 139,000 (2011-2012) -8%
=> Demand higher than supply
European Ecolabel
From 340 to 420 products from 2011 to 2012 +22%

Forewords on Chemicals and regulations
Cloth
Manufacture
End of life
Chemicals are extensively and growingly used in textiles (+20% chemical fibres since 1991) and at nearly every stage of the product life cycle.
42,8
26,4
3,5
1,2
World production (MT)
Synthetic
chemical fibres
Natural
vegetal fibres
Artificial
chemical fibres
Natural animal
fibres
•It is difficult to know which hazardous chemicals, if any, are present in textiles because supply chains are long, complex and heterogeneous (lots of SMEs)
•There is no unified legislation at the EU level.
•Legislations throughout the world do not match.
•There are however voluntary labels and retrictions.
February 2014

Thinking about EU ?
TEXTILES
REACH (1907/2006) and CLP (1272/2008) regulations
Labelling and marking of fibres Regulation 1007/2011
Etc.
Biocides Products Regulation 528/2012
General Product Safety Directive 2001/95
Industrial Emissions Directive 2010/75
February 2014

Life cycle thinking
Main steps of a
textile product
Fibres
Cloth
Manufacture
Use
End of life
Icons made by WPZOOM - Creative Commons (Attribution- Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://www.wpzoom.com Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/
February 2014

3 examples

Case studies
Case
1
Cotton T-shirt
2
Polyester Sweat
3
Cashmere Coat
Nature
Textile production
Natural vegetal Fibres
36%
26,4 Mt
Chemical Fibres
62%
42,8 Mt
(artificial Fibres included)
Natural animal Fibres
2%
1,2 Mt
Main origin
1.China
2.India
1.Asia
2.Europe
1.China
2.Mongolia
Icons made by Visual Pharm - Creative Commons (Attribution-Share Alike 3.0 Unported) - http://icons8.com/

Case 1 : Cotton T-shirt

Fibres & Cloth - India
Cotton plantation & Washing Fibres
Weaving & Fashioning
Chemical regulation
-Insecticides Act, 1968 and Insecticides Rules, 1971 -> list of pesticides banned for manufacture, import and use
-Ban of Azo dyes chemicals since June 23, 1997.
EcoDesign
-No pesticide class 1 (ex : Endosulfan)
-Low hydric stress region
-Low water use
-Install wastewater treatment or select supplier having one
-Low sizing use
-Install counter flow washing systems
February 2014

Manufacture, Use & End of life - Europe
Finishing and distribution
Use and end of life
EcoDesign
-Loss reduction and reuse
-Select low weight packaging with recycled material
-Low temperature washing product
-Assess product environmental performance
-Best practice advice to users
-Recovery service
Chemical regulation
-Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles
-Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles
-Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009)
-Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II)
February 2014

Case 2 : Polyester sweat

Fibres - Europe
Petrol extraction
Fibre synthesis
EcoDesign
-Use recycled Fibres
-Reduce VOC emissions during spinning
-Reduce Antimony content
Chemical regulation
-Registration under REACH – art.6.3
-IED (Industrial Emissions directive) : it includes the IPPC (directive on integrated Pollution Prevention and Control)

Cloth – Europe
Fashioning
Distribution, use and end of life
EcoDesign
-No use of halogenated dye carriers
-No use of phtalate or PVC
-(…)
-Recycling service (use mono- materials)
Chemical regulation - Application of annex XIV and XVII of REACH as well as the candidate list.
February 2014

Case 3 : Cashmere Coat

Fibres - China
Breeding
Knitting
Chemical regulation
-Decree 591 (2011) : Regulations on Safe Management of Hazardous Chemicals
EcoDesign
-No desertification area
-Washing without organochlorines but with biodegradable detergent
-No mineral oil (with hydrocarbons) prefer vegetal oils

Cloth - Europe
Fashioning
Distribution, use and end of life
Chemical regulation
-Art. 7,1, 7,2 and 33 of REACH about substances in articles
-Art. 58 of the BPR on treated articles
-Application of the GPSD. Eg: Dimethyl fumarate (in 2009)
-Fibres labelling regulation – new fibres (art. 6 & annex II)
EcoDesign
-For small productions, chose transfer or numerical printing
-(…)
-No change after washing
-Repair service
February 2014

How to go forward ?
February 2014

The case of chemicals (1)
Why going forward with chemical regulations ?
Anticipate clients’ questions
Anticipate bans
Protect your own legal responsibility and avoid penalties
Take opportunity to ensure higher quality
Preserve your brand image
Innovate
Use it as a marketing opportunity
Preserve your supply flow
Protect the health of your employees
February 2014

The case of chemicals (2)
How to go forward with the traceability of substances ?
A difficulty : as often, the persons who are in the best position to provide the information at the best cost (i.e. at the lesser cost) are the most remoted from the pressure of clients and do not want to do so. Two strategies exist to retrieve information :
Article
Materials
Substances
Top- bottom approach
Article
Materials
Substances
Bottom-up approach
February 2014

How to go forward ?
Fibres
Cloth
Manufacture
Use
End of life
Main steps of a
textile product
February 2014

How to go forward ?
Case 1 : frugality
•Fibres of recycled cotton
•Use of modular apparel
•Second hand market
The original Versalette by Seamly.co

How to go forward ?
Case 2 : technology
•Trying apparel before use
•Production with no loss and avoiding fad
•Use of human mechanical energy to produce electricity
•Self-cleaning apparel
•No ironing needs
February 2014

How to go forward ?
Case 3 : fashion rental service
•Apparel location program
•Developing local shops
•Integrated repair chain

www.ecomundo.eu
Contact Head office Paris, FRANCE 195, rue Jean-Jacques Rousseau 92130 Issy-les-Moulineaux FRANCE Téléphone : +33 1 83 64 20 54 Email : contact@ecomundo.eu

Annexes
February 2014

Annex I – substances restricted under REACH and used in textiles

February 2014

Chemical regulation & opportunities for EcoDesign - Case studies in textile Supply Chain - February 2014

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