AAPN Miami 2010

Pure materials. Pure benefit. American Apparel Producers' Network Tuesday May 4, 2010 “ Sustainability in the Textile Value Chain”

[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Agenda

bluesign technologies ag ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],The company

bluesign technologies ag ,[object Object],[object Object],Vision bluesign ® standard Textile manufacturers Fibre manufacturers Chemical Suppliers Brands & Retailers

bluesign ® member ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Brands and retailers

World resources Mass flow Global Mass Flows Past Present Future unchangend development freezing current state corporate improvements and private economisation factor 10 Source: „The Earth“; Prof. Friedrich Schmidt-Bleek, Factor 10 Institute, F 83660 Carnoules

What you cannot see at the end-product Waste water treatment

What you cannot see at the end-product Exhaust-air

What you cannot see at the end-product Work place conditions

What you cannot see at the end-product Waste management

What you cannot see at the end-product Efficiency in processing

What you cannot see at the end-product ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Use of chemicals

What you cannot see at the end-product ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],End-of-pipe situation

Textile production chain ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Need for chemicals

Retailer/Brand situation Strict control mechanism in the supply chain Consumers assume that retailers are managing all risks (EHS, ethical) on their behalf ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],"Brand Protection" Consequence Brand ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

What happened in the last 20 years?

Current “ECO” approaches … ,[object Object],… the Solution? Restricted Substance Lists (RSL)

Analyses show ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Harmful substances in textile products!

Approach by brands and retailers ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Unsatisfying implementation of RSLs

Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet l

Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet ll

Practical experience ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Material Safety Data Sheet lll

If You Don’t Know, You Don’t Care! Consequence Practical experience

Agenda ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

The bluesign ® standard ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Worldwide industry standard

The bluesign ® standard ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Set-up

EHS Aspects … … in textile production work place ground-water contamination Soil contamination NO x CO 2 UFP‘s CH 4 SO 2 water raw material energy waste water waste products emission noise

Conventional approach Focus on end-product End-product Brands need more information Textile production chain Blackbox STOP

bluesign ® approach bluesign ® standard Input Process / Technology Focus on input streams End-product Textile production chain Blackbox Monitoring & Optimisation STOP STOP

Input stream management ,[object Object],The five pillars of the bluesign ® standard

[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],The bluesign ® standard in summary Manufacturers fulfill the following guidelines

Environmental Impacts … … of the textile industry ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Water

Resource management ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Resource inflation ric i = 1.0 1.55 1.0 1.77 1.0 2.24 1.0 1.67 1.0 2.61 BAT current

Resource management Cost inflation BAT rif 2.01 Cost 0.07 €/kWh 2 €/m 3 0.45 €/kg 1.1 €/kg 0.015 €/kWh cif 2.09 Cost savings 897’000 €

Examples from manufacturing sites Resource management Manufacturer Cost inflation factor Savings expected Savings realized ROI of bluesign in Knitwear EU 1.05 587.460.-€ ca. 250.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.06 242.587.-€ ca. 170.000.-€ < 2 Months Woven’s Asia 1.07 354.270.-€ ca. 240.000.-€ < 1 Month Knitwear Asia 1.07 106.260.-€ ca. 80.000.-€ < 4 Months Knitwear Asia 1.56 565.000.-€ ca. 340.000.-€ < 2 Weeks Woven’s Asia 1.22 486.000.-€ ca. 400.000.-€ <3 Weeks Woven’s EU 1.09 238.000.-€ ca. 190.000.-€ 3 Months Knitwear Asia 1.32 268.670.-€ ca. 220.000.-€ 2 Months Woven’s EU 1.10 532.070.-€ ca. 356.000.-€ < 1 Month Woven’s Asia 1.48 4.245.980.-€ ca.2.450.000.-€ <1 Week Knitwear EU 1.23 328.900.-€ ca. 100.000.-€ < 2 Month

Example from manufacturing site ,[object Object],[object Object],Resource savings

Everest Textile Co., Ltd. ,[object Object],[object Object],Progress after screening

Resource management Moving toward BAT Resource Inflation Factor (rif) Cost Inflation Factor (cif) Initial-Screening Optimum 0 1 2 3 1 1. Re-Screening 2. Re-Screening 2.5 1.75

Comparison current practice – BAT Cotton knits (batch) 591 325 30 60.3 27.2 1.64 Worst Average BAT Water [l/kg] Total Energy [kWh/kg]

bluesign ® screening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Full factory analysis

bluesign ® screening ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Outcome

bluesign ® applications ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Behind the scenes

bluesign ® bluetool – the science gateway ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits

bluesign ® bluefinder – the advanced search engine ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits

bluesign ® blueguide – the comprehensive database ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Benefits

End-of-Life Amount of waste (Switzerland) Source: NZZ Folio 709 kg per person and year Textiles correspond to 0.9 % of total waste

End-of-Life Options for textiles today ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]

End-of-Life ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Examples recycling

End-of-Life ,[object Object],[object Object],Basic principles for recycling

Recycling Limits for recycling

Composting ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Limits for composting

„ End-of-Life“ thinking ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Consequence for design

Conclusion ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Reducing the ecological footprint

Thank you bluesign technologies ag EMPA Building Lerchenfeldstrasse 5 CH-9014 St. Gallen Fon +41 (0) 71 272 29 90 Fax +41 (0) 71 272 29 99 [email_address] www.bluesign.com

AAPN Miami 2010

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AAPN Miami 2010