Gota work is a form of embroidery that originated in Rajasthan, India. It involves applying small pieces of zari ribbon known as "Gota Patti" onto fabrics like silk and satin to create elaborate patterns. Traditionally used in royal garments, Gota embroidery is now commonly used in South Asian wedding attire. The process involves cutting Gota ribbon according to motifs, then attaching it to the base fabric with thread using the chain stitch technique. While traditionally only used on fabrics like georgette and chiffon for royal families, Gota work is now produced on a wider variety of fabrics and incorporated into various men's and women's clothing items and accessories beyond its historical restrictions.
2. Index
• History
• Required fabric
• Technique
• Manufacturing Process of Gota
• Types of Gota Ribbon
• Designs and Motifs
• Crafts then and now
3. History
Gota work is a form of court embroidery. This style of embroidery starts with the Mugals and
spreaded to the courts of various states like Rajasthan where Jaipur and Jodhpur." Gota Patti or Gota
work is a type of Indian embroidery that originated in Rajasthan, India. Gota embroidery uses the
applique technique. Small pieces of zari ribbon are applied onto the fabric with the edges sewn down
to create elaborate patterns. Gota embroidery is used extensively in South Asian wedding and formal
clothes.
Moghals and Rajputs royals used to wear the clothes in which Silk and Satin were used as base
fabric, while Gota Patti work was used to create motifs on royal garments. Gold and silver metallic
wires used for Gotta ribbon. The Gota Patti was cut according to natural motifs like birds, human
figures, animals and attached to cloth decorated by gold and silver wire. It resembled with the Kundan
and Meenakari jewellery of Rajasthan.
4. Required fabric
• Mainly The work of gota doing on pure Georgette, Chiffon, Velvet &
Silk whereas as in recent years synthetic fabrics are used for the
production. The colors commonly used were Red, Orange, Pink,
magenta, Maroon & Yellow which are nowadays available in all
possible shades as per the customer demand.
5. Technique
The base fabric stretched on wooden frame by help of cords. It adjusted according to size of
base fabrics. At an time 5 to 7 artisans work on wooden frame. The design would be trace by
the paper on the base fabrics . The chalk powder used for spreading the design on a base
fabrics. Gota Patti is cut according to motif.
The Gota Patti ribbon is cut , folded and patched over fabric with the help of thread and
needle by chain stitch .The other materials used with Gota Patti are dory, sitara,
beads, sequins, stones etc. The edging of base fabric made by fringed border known
as kinari or lappe ka kam.
6. Manufacturing Process of Gota
• > The yarn used in Gota weaving is purchased from the market.
• > Yarn is then hanged on stand and drawn up to the machine by manual process.
• >The man is putting Yarn on machine.
• >Weaving machine is run by electricity and woven fabric comes out in a ribbon form.
• > Gota ribbon is being weaved.
• > The ribbons are cut into desired lengths as per the need of the customers and roll is made
and tied.
• > Roll of Gota ribbon is being tied
• > Later on it is supplied to the people to make laces, for making different designs on it or for the
punching process with which the different shapes comes out. And then finally supplied to the
artisans for the creative work.
8. Designs and Motifs
The design and motifs are inspired by nature like birds (peacock, parrot, sparrow),
human figure (Bani thani), animals (elephant, horse). The contemporary design like
paisley, geometrical, palanquin, checkerboard are also in fashion. These motifs are
structured into buta, butties and cut into various shapes likes flower pot (Gamla), Keri
(Mango) and champak flower, and stitched with the base fabrics by chain stitch or by
hemming.
9. Craft then and now
Traditionally the Gota work was restricted to the royal family. In earlier times only
ghagras, odhani and sarees were made. Now a days they are producing many products
for men and women. The products which they are producing are jackets, kurties, bags,
blouses etc. Now a days, not only females but also male products of 22. Gota work are
available in the market. The people of every caste and community are wearing it and it is
not restricted to the royal families.