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Winter Vegetable Gardening Tips
from Joyce Gemmell
Peas
Brassica family
There are three categories of peas: the Eng-
lish or shelling pea, the Chinese pea or
snow pea and the snap pea. The differences
between the last two, edible pod types, is in
the maturity of the pea inside the pod. The
Chinese or snow pea has a large flat pod,
some up to 2 inches across and 4 - 5 inches
long with immature peas, at ideal harvest.
The snap pea has a smaller pod width, round
or oval in diameter and fleshy. Flavor of the
pod is very sweet in some varieties when
the peas in the pod are half to fully developed. The sweetness of the
pod encourages most people to eat them raw.
All of the three categories have hybrids developed for disease re-
sistance, earlier harvest, plant size, yield and flavor. In areas of the
country where cool wet spring and summer favor the pea, they grow
and produce without many problems, but in an alien environment
of mild wet springs and hot humid summers, they are susceptible to
many diseases and generally give a quick flush of peas before the
plants are under mildew stress and stop blooming.
To overcome, somewhat, the combination of powdery mildew and
other susceptible wilts, we plant peas in late fall (October) and har-
vest in about 60 to 90 days, depending on the weather. The lon-
ger one delays planting, even early maturing varieties, the bigger
chance that the harvest will begin the same time spring temperatures
start rising and overcast days bring high humidity, the two factors
for mildew infection. Most certainly, one should select varieties that
have been developed with mildew resistance but that does not mean
your plants will be 100% protected from the problem.
Germination can be a problem in wet cold soil. It can also be a prob-
lem in warm wet soil. Peas prefer well drained soil. On heavy soil,
plant on mounds for better winter drainage. Do not use high nitrogen
fertilizer as peas are sensitive to salinity. Apply all purpose ( 5 - 10
- 5) fertilizer before planting and work into the top 12 inches. Do
NOT use fresh horse or any other fresh manure.
Plant seed 1 to 2 inches deep ( 2
inches deep if your ground is still
warm, 70 degrees or over.) Water
the rows or beds several days be-
fore planting to bring soil moisture
up. After planting, wait for germi-
nation before watering again, espe-
cially on heavy soil. Peas can stand
crowding, 2 - 3 inches apart in a
row, or wait for good germination
and then thin. If you plant dwarf
varieties, try planting in double rows, 6 - 8 inches apart and they will
support each other. Most dwarf varieties do better with a short trel-
lis. Large climbers need sturdy support, for some, as much as 8 feet
The Shelling pea has a fibrous, stringy pod with sweet plump peas.
It takes many plants to give enough peas for a good sized harvest.
Pods are picked when the peas are filled out and before the pods
become mottled or yellow. The peas, when over mature, lose their
sweet flavor Some of the
better hybrids are: Mae-
stro (61 days) with 11
peas in each pod, Wando
(68 days) takes heat so
you might try it in March,
Novella (70) days is a
dwarf, semi leafless and
prolific, Green Arrow
(70 days), Burpeeana
Early (63 days) or Alaska
(55 days), a smooth seed
type that germinates bet-
ter in wet soil. All of the
maturity dates listed are
based on spring planting.
Fall planting and slower
winter growth may extend
maturity dates.
The Chinese or snow pea that we know from Chinese cooking,
must be picked when the pea is immature. The pods can be fibrous
and “grassy tasting.” Some of the tall varieties are very prolific and
need daily picking. Some of the recommended varieties in field
testing are: Mammoth Melting Sugar (90) days, very large pods,
prolific; Dwarf White Sugar (60 days) early, large harvest; Dwarf
Planting Dates for bush peas:
Coastal region
Plants can be set out from September to March.
Inland Region
Plants can be set out from January to March.
Grey Sugar (80 days), very prolific, good mildew resistance. A new
Park Seed Co. introduction (1996) is Short ‘N Sweet (50 days), a
snow pea with vines only 30 inches tall. Wait until October to plant.
Oregon Giant (60 days), 2 % foot vines, high sugar pod, tolerant of
powdery mildew.
The Snap Pea , a generally different pea from the snow pea, was de-
veloped by a plant breeder in Idaho in the early ‘70s. It was awarded
the All American Selection for vegetables in 1981 under the name of
Sugar Snap. Since its introduction, many variations of the snap pea
have been developed to improve the characteristics. Sugar Daddy ,
a 1985 introduction, is stringless; Sugar Bon is a dwarf variety and
early. There are now 5 or 6 snap pea relatives from which to choose.
All have the typical sweet, oval, fleshy pod with large sweet peas
inside.
There is some evidence that some snap type peas are day length
sensitive, which would mean that some varieties would grow larger,
bloom more and consequently have higher yield if planted in early
spring instead of the fall. Which varieties should be planted in the
spring and which could be planted in the fall may be determined by
the field trials.
Field trials were done in El Cajon by the University of California
for three seasons on both types of edible pea pods. Evaluations were
made for mildew resistance, maturity dates, yield and flavor. (see
notes following)
Snap Pea and China Pea (Snow Pea) Notes from Field Trials
Snap Pea: Size varies, plants 2 % to 6 or 7 feet tall. All have thick
wall pods, round or oval, firm, crisp, sweet, some more than others.
Can be eaten raw, cooked and shelled. Original variety called Sugar
Snap is stringy, later varieties are stringless.
China Pea or Snow Pea: Plant size from 3 % to over 6 feet tall. Pods
are 3 - 5 inches long and broad, depending on variety. In field tests
done by the Master gardeners, the highest yielding China Pea was
Dwarf Grey Sugar and a tall variety called Mammoth Melting.
PLANTING: If planted October to mid-November, harvest should
begin in January to mid-February and continue for approximately
two months before mildew affects the yield. Once mildew is ob-
served on the bottom leaves and temperatures are increasing, the
yield begins to decline. It’s time to pull the vines. Smooth seed vari-
eties are adapted to cool weather and colder soil.
FROST: Mature plants can take freezing temperatures to the mid
twenties, but if in bloom and pod, freezing will usually kill both
flower and fruit. The plants will continue to grow and set more fruit
as soon as temperatures rise again.
MATURITY DATES: Listed maturity dates are based on spring
planting. Use them only to compare varieties. Maturity will depend
on the date one planted and the winter temperatures.
GARDEN PEA VARIETIES
Green peas, sugar peas, china peas, and snap peas are all cultivars
within Pisum sativum. Green peas are the common shelling variety
of pea, While others are edible podded varieties botanically identi-
fied as P. sativum var. saccharatum and P. sativum var. macrocar-
pon.
In the edible-pod varieties, there are two sub groups -the sugar or
snow peas and snap peas. Within sugar peas, china peas are semi-
dwarf types growing to a height of about three feet and producing
pods three or four inches long. Standard sugar peas typically grow
to a height of six feet or more and produce pods four or five inches
long. Both the China and standard sugar pea types produce pods
that are broad and thin. The leading China pea variety is Dwarf
Grey Sugar, while Mammoth Melting Sugar is the most preferred
standard sugar pea variety. The plant size of snap peas varies as
there are standard varieties and a growing number of dwarf ones
now available, but they all have pods with thick walls that become
round, firm, and crisp. Pods may be eaten raw, cooked or allowed to
mature for shelling like common peas
Pea varieties are categorized further into groups through many traits:
pod color (light or dark green); seed surface (smooth or wrinkled);
days to maturity (early, mid or late season); plant size (indetermi-
nate/tall, semi-determinate/semi-dwarf or determinate/dwarf); pod
shape; seed size and color. The varieties with dark green pods are
preferred for freezing and home garden use. Smooth-seeded Vari-
eties are more adapted to cool weather conditions, and wrinkled-
seeded peas are generally considered to be sweeter, although there
is recent evidence contradicting this.
There is an ever-changing list of garden pea varieties as breeders
develop new peas with improved qualities. Better flavor, larger peas,
higher yields, dwarf growing habit, more tendrils for vine support,
disease resistance, and stringless pods have all been introduced.
Most dwarf varieties and many semi-dwarf ones require no staking
or support. However, harvesting may be easier if plants are grown
on a short fence to keep them from falling over in the wind. The tall
varieties will require a strong support system consisting of stakes
and twine to keep plants upright and facilitate harvesting.
Source: Dennis Pittenger, Urban Horticulturist; VC - UCR, Vegeta-
ble Briefs, January 1985.
Also check out ...
http://vric.ucdavis.edu/veg_info_crop/peas.htm
http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/peas.html
Nutritional Information...
Peas
	 Energy 		 339 kJ (81 kcal)
	 Carbohydrates 	 14.5 g
	 Sugars 			 5.7 g
	 Dietary fibre 		 5.1 g
	 Fat 			 0.4 g
	 Protein 		 5.4 g
	 Vitamin A equiv. 	 38 μg (4%)
	 - beta-carotene 	 449 μg (4%)
	 - lutein and zeaxanthin 2593 μg
	 Thiamine (Vit. B1) 	 0.3 mg (23%)
	 Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 	 0.1 mg (7%)
	 Niacin (Vit. B3) 	 2.1 mg (14%)
	 Pantothenic acid (B5) 	0.1 mg (2%)
	 Vitamin B6 		 0.2 mg (15%)
	 Folate (Vit. B9) 	 65 μg (16%)
	 Vitamin C 		 40.0 mg (67%)
	 Calcium 		 25.0 mg (3%)
	 Iron 			 1.5 mg (12%)
	 Magnesium 		 33.0 mg (9%)
	 Phosphorus 		 108 mg (15%)
	 Potassium 		 244 mg (5%)
	 Zinc 			 1.2 mg (12%)
Percentages are relative to US recommendations for adults.
Source: Wikipedia : USDA Nutrient database

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Winter Vegetable Gardening Tips for San Diego County, California, Gardening Guidebook for California

  • 1. Winter Vegetable Gardening Tips from Joyce Gemmell Peas Brassica family There are three categories of peas: the Eng- lish or shelling pea, the Chinese pea or snow pea and the snap pea. The differences between the last two, edible pod types, is in the maturity of the pea inside the pod. The Chinese or snow pea has a large flat pod, some up to 2 inches across and 4 - 5 inches long with immature peas, at ideal harvest. The snap pea has a smaller pod width, round or oval in diameter and fleshy. Flavor of the pod is very sweet in some varieties when the peas in the pod are half to fully developed. The sweetness of the pod encourages most people to eat them raw. All of the three categories have hybrids developed for disease re- sistance, earlier harvest, plant size, yield and flavor. In areas of the country where cool wet spring and summer favor the pea, they grow and produce without many problems, but in an alien environment of mild wet springs and hot humid summers, they are susceptible to many diseases and generally give a quick flush of peas before the plants are under mildew stress and stop blooming. To overcome, somewhat, the combination of powdery mildew and other susceptible wilts, we plant peas in late fall (October) and har- vest in about 60 to 90 days, depending on the weather. The lon- ger one delays planting, even early maturing varieties, the bigger chance that the harvest will begin the same time spring temperatures start rising and overcast days bring high humidity, the two factors for mildew infection. Most certainly, one should select varieties that have been developed with mildew resistance but that does not mean your plants will be 100% protected from the problem. Germination can be a problem in wet cold soil. It can also be a prob- lem in warm wet soil. Peas prefer well drained soil. On heavy soil, plant on mounds for better winter drainage. Do not use high nitrogen fertilizer as peas are sensitive to salinity. Apply all purpose ( 5 - 10 - 5) fertilizer before planting and work into the top 12 inches. Do NOT use fresh horse or any other fresh manure.
  • 2. Plant seed 1 to 2 inches deep ( 2 inches deep if your ground is still warm, 70 degrees or over.) Water the rows or beds several days be- fore planting to bring soil moisture up. After planting, wait for germi- nation before watering again, espe- cially on heavy soil. Peas can stand crowding, 2 - 3 inches apart in a row, or wait for good germination and then thin. If you plant dwarf varieties, try planting in double rows, 6 - 8 inches apart and they will support each other. Most dwarf varieties do better with a short trel- lis. Large climbers need sturdy support, for some, as much as 8 feet The Shelling pea has a fibrous, stringy pod with sweet plump peas. It takes many plants to give enough peas for a good sized harvest. Pods are picked when the peas are filled out and before the pods become mottled or yellow. The peas, when over mature, lose their sweet flavor Some of the better hybrids are: Mae- stro (61 days) with 11 peas in each pod, Wando (68 days) takes heat so you might try it in March, Novella (70) days is a dwarf, semi leafless and prolific, Green Arrow (70 days), Burpeeana Early (63 days) or Alaska (55 days), a smooth seed type that germinates bet- ter in wet soil. All of the maturity dates listed are based on spring planting. Fall planting and slower winter growth may extend maturity dates. The Chinese or snow pea that we know from Chinese cooking, must be picked when the pea is immature. The pods can be fibrous and “grassy tasting.” Some of the tall varieties are very prolific and need daily picking. Some of the recommended varieties in field testing are: Mammoth Melting Sugar (90) days, very large pods, prolific; Dwarf White Sugar (60 days) early, large harvest; Dwarf Planting Dates for bush peas: Coastal region Plants can be set out from September to March. Inland Region Plants can be set out from January to March.
  • 3. Grey Sugar (80 days), very prolific, good mildew resistance. A new Park Seed Co. introduction (1996) is Short ‘N Sweet (50 days), a snow pea with vines only 30 inches tall. Wait until October to plant. Oregon Giant (60 days), 2 % foot vines, high sugar pod, tolerant of powdery mildew. The Snap Pea , a generally different pea from the snow pea, was de- veloped by a plant breeder in Idaho in the early ‘70s. It was awarded the All American Selection for vegetables in 1981 under the name of Sugar Snap. Since its introduction, many variations of the snap pea have been developed to improve the characteristics. Sugar Daddy , a 1985 introduction, is stringless; Sugar Bon is a dwarf variety and early. There are now 5 or 6 snap pea relatives from which to choose. All have the typical sweet, oval, fleshy pod with large sweet peas inside. There is some evidence that some snap type peas are day length sensitive, which would mean that some varieties would grow larger, bloom more and consequently have higher yield if planted in early spring instead of the fall. Which varieties should be planted in the spring and which could be planted in the fall may be determined by the field trials. Field trials were done in El Cajon by the University of California for three seasons on both types of edible pea pods. Evaluations were made for mildew resistance, maturity dates, yield and flavor. (see notes following) Snap Pea and China Pea (Snow Pea) Notes from Field Trials Snap Pea: Size varies, plants 2 % to 6 or 7 feet tall. All have thick wall pods, round or oval, firm, crisp, sweet, some more than others. Can be eaten raw, cooked and shelled. Original variety called Sugar Snap is stringy, later varieties are stringless. China Pea or Snow Pea: Plant size from 3 % to over 6 feet tall. Pods are 3 - 5 inches long and broad, depending on variety. In field tests done by the Master gardeners, the highest yielding China Pea was Dwarf Grey Sugar and a tall variety called Mammoth Melting. PLANTING: If planted October to mid-November, harvest should begin in January to mid-February and continue for approximately two months before mildew affects the yield. Once mildew is ob- served on the bottom leaves and temperatures are increasing, the yield begins to decline. It’s time to pull the vines. Smooth seed vari- eties are adapted to cool weather and colder soil.
  • 4. FROST: Mature plants can take freezing temperatures to the mid twenties, but if in bloom and pod, freezing will usually kill both flower and fruit. The plants will continue to grow and set more fruit as soon as temperatures rise again. MATURITY DATES: Listed maturity dates are based on spring planting. Use them only to compare varieties. Maturity will depend on the date one planted and the winter temperatures. GARDEN PEA VARIETIES Green peas, sugar peas, china peas, and snap peas are all cultivars within Pisum sativum. Green peas are the common shelling variety of pea, While others are edible podded varieties botanically identi- fied as P. sativum var. saccharatum and P. sativum var. macrocar- pon. In the edible-pod varieties, there are two sub groups -the sugar or snow peas and snap peas. Within sugar peas, china peas are semi- dwarf types growing to a height of about three feet and producing pods three or four inches long. Standard sugar peas typically grow to a height of six feet or more and produce pods four or five inches long. Both the China and standard sugar pea types produce pods that are broad and thin. The leading China pea variety is Dwarf Grey Sugar, while Mammoth Melting Sugar is the most preferred standard sugar pea variety. The plant size of snap peas varies as there are standard varieties and a growing number of dwarf ones now available, but they all have pods with thick walls that become round, firm, and crisp. Pods may be eaten raw, cooked or allowed to mature for shelling like common peas Pea varieties are categorized further into groups through many traits: pod color (light or dark green); seed surface (smooth or wrinkled); days to maturity (early, mid or late season); plant size (indetermi- nate/tall, semi-determinate/semi-dwarf or determinate/dwarf); pod shape; seed size and color. The varieties with dark green pods are preferred for freezing and home garden use. Smooth-seeded Vari- eties are more adapted to cool weather conditions, and wrinkled- seeded peas are generally considered to be sweeter, although there is recent evidence contradicting this. There is an ever-changing list of garden pea varieties as breeders develop new peas with improved qualities. Better flavor, larger peas, higher yields, dwarf growing habit, more tendrils for vine support, disease resistance, and stringless pods have all been introduced.
  • 5. Most dwarf varieties and many semi-dwarf ones require no staking or support. However, harvesting may be easier if plants are grown on a short fence to keep them from falling over in the wind. The tall varieties will require a strong support system consisting of stakes and twine to keep plants upright and facilitate harvesting. Source: Dennis Pittenger, Urban Horticulturist; VC - UCR, Vegeta- ble Briefs, January 1985. Also check out ... http://vric.ucdavis.edu/veg_info_crop/peas.htm http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu/PMG/GARDEN/VEGES/peas.html Nutritional Information... Peas Energy 339 kJ (81 kcal) Carbohydrates 14.5 g Sugars 5.7 g Dietary fibre 5.1 g Fat 0.4 g Protein 5.4 g Vitamin A equiv. 38 μg (4%) - beta-carotene 449 μg (4%) - lutein and zeaxanthin 2593 μg Thiamine (Vit. B1) 0.3 mg (23%) Riboflavin (Vit. B2) 0.1 mg (7%) Niacin (Vit. B3) 2.1 mg (14%) Pantothenic acid (B5) 0.1 mg (2%) Vitamin B6 0.2 mg (15%) Folate (Vit. B9) 65 μg (16%) Vitamin C 40.0 mg (67%) Calcium 25.0 mg (3%) Iron 1.5 mg (12%) Magnesium 33.0 mg (9%) Phosphorus 108 mg (15%) Potassium 244 mg (5%) Zinc 1.2 mg (12%) Percentages are relative to US recommendations for adults. Source: Wikipedia : USDA Nutrient database