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SKUNKS 
Integrated Pest Management Around the Home and Landscape 
Two species of skunk are found in Cali-fornia, 
the striped skunk (Mephitis mephi-tis) 
(Fig. 1), which is the most commonly 
found species, and the spotted skunk 
(Spilogale gracilis). Both are members of 
the weasel family and are equipped with 
a powerful and protective scent gland 
that can shoot a potent and pungent liq-uid 
as far as 6 to 10 feet. The secretion is 
acrid enough to cause nausea and can 
produce severe burning and temporary 
blindness if it strikes the eyes. 
BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR 
The striped skunk is about the size of an 
adult house cat and its fur is mostly black 
with white on top of the head and neck. 
In most animals the white extends down 
the back, usually separating into two 
white stripes. Spotted skunks are black 
with white spots or short white streaks. 
They are smaller than the striped skunk, 
about half the size of a house cat. 
Skunks are nocturnal, hunting at night 
for insects, grubs, small rodents, snakes, 
frogs, mushrooms, berries and fruit, pet 
food, bird food, and garbage. Skunks 
have a high preference for eggs and, as a 
result, ground-nesting birds suffer losses. 
Breeding usually occurs during February 
and March for the striped skunk; gesta-tion 
time is about 9 weeks and litters 
range from four to six kits. After a few 
months the kits can be seen following 
their mother as she makes her nightly 
rounds in search of food. Skunks do not 
hibernate, but in regions of colder 
weather females may congregate in com-munal 
dens during the winter. 
Skunks often den in burrows, but because 
they prefer to do as little digging as pos-sible, 
they will use abandoned burrows 
dug by ground squirrels, fox, or coyotes, 
enlarging them only if necessary. If 
dens are scarce, they will readily use 
brush piles, hollow logs, and culverts. 
In urban settings, they den under decks, 
porches, or beneath buildings. 
There is cause for concern when skunks 
take up residence in an urban or subur-ban 
area because in California they are 
primary carriers of rabies, a viral dis-ease 
transmitted by the bite of an in-fected 
animal. Skunks are also carriers 
of other diseases including leptospiro-sis, 
listeriosis, canine distemper, canine 
hepatitis, Q-fever, tularemia, and trypa-nosoma. 
Skunks are attracted to residential areas 
by the ready availability of food, water, 
and shelter. They become a nuisance 
when they live under porches, decks, 
garden tool sheds, or homes. They like 
to feed on ripening berries and fallen 
fruit and cause many other garden 
problems by digging while in search of 
grubs and other insects. They often 
search for food in lawns by digging 
small pits or cone-shaped depressions 
that range from to 3 to 5 inches across. 
Like raccoons, they may also damage 
lawns by rolling back sections of sod in 
search of insects. 
LEGAL STATUS 
The California Fish and Game Code 
classifies skunks as nongame mammals. 
Nongame mammals that are injuring or 
threatening property may be taken by 
the owner or tenant of the premises at 
any time and in any legal manner. Fish 
and Game regulations prohibit the relo-cation 
of skunks and other wildlife 
without written permission of the De-partment 
of Fish and Game. The preva-lence 
of rabies in the skunk population 
is one of several major reasons for de-nying 
Figure 1. Adult striped skunk. 
relocation. For further informa-tion 
on the legal status of skunks, con-tact 
the California Department of Fish 
and Game. 
MANAGEMENT 
Because rabies is endemic in the skunk 
population, some city or county health 
departments assist in the control of 
skunks by providing trappers to re-move 
them from residential areas. The 
skunk’s propensity to spray their musk-laden 
spray is sufficient to make them 
unwelcome visitors, especially in close 
proximity to homes. Several actions can 
be taken to make gardens, yards, and 
residences less attractive to skunks. 
Detection 
Because they are usually active only at 
night, many people never see skunks as 
they travel through their neighbor-hoods 
or yards. Barking dogs may be 
the first apparent sign of their presence, 
and the odor resulting from a skunk/ 
dog confrontation will provide positive 
evidence. If skunks repeatedly travel 
PEST NOTES Publication 74118 
University of California 
Agriculture and Natural Resources June 2004
June 2004 Skunks 
◆ 2 ◆ 
through your yard or garden, sooner or 
later you will detect a faint skunk odor, 
even if the skunk has not sprayed. As 
with raccoons, an occasional visit by a 
skunk or a family of skunks may not be 
cause for concern, but if these visits 
become commonplace, some action is 
probably warranted. During the breed-ing 
season, males frequently spray 
when fighting over females. The pres-ence 
of these odors in late winter is a 
signal that skunks might be nearby and 
that it could be necessary to take appro-priate 
measures to prevent pregnant 
females from accessing potential nest-ing 
sites underneath buildings. 
Habitat Modification 
Potential den sites can be limited by 
cutting back overgrown shrubbery and 
by stacking firewood tightly. To reduce 
food sources, fallen fruit should be re-moved 
frequently. Garbage cans should 
have tight-fitting lids, and food items or 
table scraps should not be placed in 
compost bins. Food placed out-of-doors 
for pets should be removed by nightfall. 
Exclusion 
As with many other vertebrate pests, 
the best solution to skunk problems 
beneath porches or buildings is to 
screen or block them out. Close off all 
potential entrances or openings under 
houses, garden tool sheds, mobile 
homes, porches, and decks with 1⁄4-inch 
mesh hardware cloth. The advantage of 
using the small mesh is that it will also 
exclude rats and house mice if installed 
correctly. Skunks will work hard to get 
into a desirable denning space, so take 
care to make fittings good and tight. If 
there is soil underneath the potential 
entrances, bury the wire 6 inches to 
make a good seal. 
Once skunks have made their home 
beneath a building, the problem is a 
little more difficult because you have to 
be sure the animals have left before 
blocking the opening. One way to de-termine 
this is to sprinkle a smooth, 
1⁄8-inch thick layer of flour just in front 
of the point of entrance to form a track-ing 
patch. Examine the tracking patch 
soon after dark; the presence of foot-prints 
will indicate that the animal has 
left and the opening can be closed. 
However, blocking the entrance is more 
problematic if there are several young 
left behind. If you are not sure that all 
the skunks beneath a building have left, 
a one-way, outward-swinging gate can 
be fashioned that will allow any re-maining 
skunks to leave but not to re-enter. 
This gate can be constructed from 
1⁄2-inch mesh hardware cloth hinged at 
the top of the frame and left loose on 
the other three sides. It must be larger 
than the opening so that it can only 
swing outward (Fig. 2). Skunks will 
push it open to leave but will not be 
able to push it inward to reenter. This is 
ineffective, of course, if the kits are not 
yet mobile; kits not yet able to walk 
may have to be removed by other 
means. The placement of one or more 
floodlights beneath the building facing 
outward through the skunk’s entry 
point will often assist in driving them 
away from a location. 
Trapping 
Skunks can be trapped with an en-closed 
cage-type, live-catch trap. Plastic 
box traps are superior to wire traps 
because they are completely enclosed, 
thus reducing the risk of getting 
sprayed while removing the trapped 
animal from the site. Individuals who 
have no experience trapping skunks 
should hire a professional wildlife con-trol 
operator. Professionals have the 
experience and all the necessary equip-ment 
to trap and dispatch the animal. 
An experienced trapper is also much 
less apt to be sprayed, an event to be 
avoided if at all possible. Skunks cannot 
be relocated without a permit, and be-cause 
of the potential for rabies it is 
unlikely the Fish and Game Depart-ment 
will issue one. 
Other Control Methods 
A few commercial products are avail-able 
for repelling skunks, but unfortu-nately 
they are not very effective. 
Ordinary household ammonia has been 
used with some reported success as a 
home remedy repellent for driving 
skunks from beneath buildings. 
It is sometimes also suggested that food 
for skunks can be reduced by managing 
grubs and other insects in lawns. This is 
done with the hope that the animal will 
Figure 2. A one-way door constructed to 
allow an animal to exit but not to return. 
Screen door must overlap frame to pre-vent 
reentry. 
refrain from further digging. If your 
lawn is infested with insects or grubs, 
see Pest Notes: Lawn Insects, listed in 
References, or contact your local Coop-erative 
Extension office. 
Burrow fumigants such as gas or smoke 
cartridges may be used in rural areas if 
the burrows used by skunks can be 
located and are not under or near build-ings. 
They are not generally recom-mended 
for use in residential areas 
because of the risk of fire and penetra-tion 
of the gas into buildings. These 
cartridges are ignited and pushed into 
the skunk’s burrow. The burrow is then 
sealed off with soil and packed tightly 
to prevent the toxic and asphyxiating 
smoke from escaping. Follow the prod-uct 
instructions carefully. 
In rural areas where it is safe to do so, 
skunks may be spotlighted at night and 
shot. Since they may spray in the pro-cess, 
be selective in the location chosen 
for this control method. 
Odor Removal 
There are several options for odor re-moval. 
The chemical neutroleum-alpha 
is one of the most useful neutralizers 
for removing the unpleasant skunk 
scent on furniture or in buildings, but 
this material and products containing it 
are not readily available. There are also 
other commercial products sold for 
neutralizing or masking skunk odor. If
June 2004 Skunks 
◆ 3 ◆ 
For more information contact the University 
of California Cooperative Extension or agri-cultural 
commissioner’s office in your coun-ty. 
See your phone book for addresses and 
phone numbers. 
AUTHORS: T. P. Salmon, D. A. Whisson, 
and R. E. Marsh 
TECHNICAL EDITOR: M. L. Flint 
DESIGN, COORDINATION, AND 
PRODUCTION: M. Brush 
ILLUSTRATIONS: Fig. 1: Christine M. 
Dewees; Fig. 2: Chris O’Connor 
Produced by IPM Education and Publica-tions, 
UC Statewide IPM Program, Universi-ty 
of California, Davis, CA 95616-8620 
This Pest Note is available on the World 
Wide Web (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu) 
This publication has been anonymously peer re-viewed 
for technical accuracy by University of Cal-ifornia 
scientists and other qualified professionals. 
This review process was managed by the ANR 
Associate Editor for Pest Management. 
To simplify information, trade names of products 
have been used. No endorsement of named products 
is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products 
that are not mentioned. 
This material is partially based upon work 
supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department 
of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), 
Integrated Pest Management. 
WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS 
Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations 
given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, 
away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. 
Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially 
gardens containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. 
Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash nor pour pesticides down sink or toilet. Either 
use the pesticide according to the label or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste 
Collection site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container 
disposal and for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of 
empty containers by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such 
a manner that they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. 
The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person on the basis of race, 
color, national origin, religion, sex, gender identity, pregnancy (including childbirth, and medical condi-tions 
related to pregnancy or childbirth), physical or mental disability, medical condition (cancer-related 
or genetic characteristics), ancestry, marital status, age, sexual orientation, citizenship, or status as a 
covered veteran (covered veterans are special disabled veterans, recently separated veterans, Vietnam 
era veterans, or any other veterans who served on active duty during a war or in a campaign or expedi-tion 
for which a campaign badge has been authorized) in any of its programs or activities. University 
policy is intended to be consistent with the provisions of applicable State and Federal laws. Inquiries 
regarding the University’s nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action/Staff 
Personnel Services Director, University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 300 Lakeside 
Drive, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94612-3550, (510) 987-0096. 
you cannot find such products easily, 
contact a professional wildlife control 
operator, who may be able to provide 
neutroleum-alpha or can tell you 
where it can be purchased. Do not use 
neutroleum-alpha on pets or people. If 
your dog or cat has confronted a 
skunk, call your veterinarian to deter-mine 
current recommendations for 
washing the animal to get rid of skunk 
odor. 
A home remedy formulation reported 
by some to be effective is as follows: 
1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide 
1⁄4 cup baking soda 
1 teaspoon liquid soap. 
Once the hydrogen peroxide is mixed 
with the baking soda, the mixture is 
unstable and generates oxygen, and 
thus cannot be bottled or stored. Ap-parently, 
oxidation changes the 
chemical composition of skunk scent 
so that it no longer smells. When the 
fresh mixture is applied to items con-taminated 
by skunk odor, the smell 
diminishes quickly. Any leftover mix-ture 
should be diluted several fold 
with water and poured down the 
drain. Hydrogen peroxide mixtures 
can be used safely on pets and people 
as well as on clothing and furniture. 
Rinse pets thoroughly with water after 
treatment. 
Skunk Bites 
Rabies, an infectious disease caused 
by a virus organism, is found in the 
saliva of infected animals. It affects 
only mammals and is transmitted 
most commonly by a bite. With the 
exception of bats, the disease is almost 
always fatal. People can survive the 
bite of a rabid animal, but only if 
medical attention is received in time. 
A physician should attend to ALL 
skunk bites, no matter how minor, and 
the local health department should be 
notified of the incident. 
Skunks that seem tame or listless and 
wander about during daylight hours 
should be treated with great caution 
because this behavior is symptomatic of 
rabies. Also, if they exhibit no fear of 
people or pets and show some aggres-sive 
behavior, chances are quite high 
that they are rabid. 
If you live in an area where skunks 
occur, be sure your dogs and cats are 
routinely vaccinated against rabies. 
Some dogs will confront skunks when-ever 
they get an opportunity. Even 
though they suffer when they get 
sprayed, some dogs never learn. 
COMPILED FROM 
Salmon, T. P., D. A. Whisson, and R. E. 
Marsh. In press. Wildlife Pest Control 
Around Gardens and Homes. 2nd ed. 
Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. 
Publ. 21385. 
REFERENCES 
Dreistadt, S. H., M. A. Harivandi, 
H. Costa, and J. S. Hartin. March 2003. 
Pest Notes: Lawn Insects. Oakland: Univ. 
Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 7476.

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Skunks Integrated Pest Management

  • 1. SKUNKS Integrated Pest Management Around the Home and Landscape Two species of skunk are found in Cali-fornia, the striped skunk (Mephitis mephi-tis) (Fig. 1), which is the most commonly found species, and the spotted skunk (Spilogale gracilis). Both are members of the weasel family and are equipped with a powerful and protective scent gland that can shoot a potent and pungent liq-uid as far as 6 to 10 feet. The secretion is acrid enough to cause nausea and can produce severe burning and temporary blindness if it strikes the eyes. BIOLOGY AND BEHAVIOR The striped skunk is about the size of an adult house cat and its fur is mostly black with white on top of the head and neck. In most animals the white extends down the back, usually separating into two white stripes. Spotted skunks are black with white spots or short white streaks. They are smaller than the striped skunk, about half the size of a house cat. Skunks are nocturnal, hunting at night for insects, grubs, small rodents, snakes, frogs, mushrooms, berries and fruit, pet food, bird food, and garbage. Skunks have a high preference for eggs and, as a result, ground-nesting birds suffer losses. Breeding usually occurs during February and March for the striped skunk; gesta-tion time is about 9 weeks and litters range from four to six kits. After a few months the kits can be seen following their mother as she makes her nightly rounds in search of food. Skunks do not hibernate, but in regions of colder weather females may congregate in com-munal dens during the winter. Skunks often den in burrows, but because they prefer to do as little digging as pos-sible, they will use abandoned burrows dug by ground squirrels, fox, or coyotes, enlarging them only if necessary. If dens are scarce, they will readily use brush piles, hollow logs, and culverts. In urban settings, they den under decks, porches, or beneath buildings. There is cause for concern when skunks take up residence in an urban or subur-ban area because in California they are primary carriers of rabies, a viral dis-ease transmitted by the bite of an in-fected animal. Skunks are also carriers of other diseases including leptospiro-sis, listeriosis, canine distemper, canine hepatitis, Q-fever, tularemia, and trypa-nosoma. Skunks are attracted to residential areas by the ready availability of food, water, and shelter. They become a nuisance when they live under porches, decks, garden tool sheds, or homes. They like to feed on ripening berries and fallen fruit and cause many other garden problems by digging while in search of grubs and other insects. They often search for food in lawns by digging small pits or cone-shaped depressions that range from to 3 to 5 inches across. Like raccoons, they may also damage lawns by rolling back sections of sod in search of insects. LEGAL STATUS The California Fish and Game Code classifies skunks as nongame mammals. Nongame mammals that are injuring or threatening property may be taken by the owner or tenant of the premises at any time and in any legal manner. Fish and Game regulations prohibit the relo-cation of skunks and other wildlife without written permission of the De-partment of Fish and Game. The preva-lence of rabies in the skunk population is one of several major reasons for de-nying Figure 1. Adult striped skunk. relocation. For further informa-tion on the legal status of skunks, con-tact the California Department of Fish and Game. MANAGEMENT Because rabies is endemic in the skunk population, some city or county health departments assist in the control of skunks by providing trappers to re-move them from residential areas. The skunk’s propensity to spray their musk-laden spray is sufficient to make them unwelcome visitors, especially in close proximity to homes. Several actions can be taken to make gardens, yards, and residences less attractive to skunks. Detection Because they are usually active only at night, many people never see skunks as they travel through their neighbor-hoods or yards. Barking dogs may be the first apparent sign of their presence, and the odor resulting from a skunk/ dog confrontation will provide positive evidence. If skunks repeatedly travel PEST NOTES Publication 74118 University of California Agriculture and Natural Resources June 2004
  • 2. June 2004 Skunks ◆ 2 ◆ through your yard or garden, sooner or later you will detect a faint skunk odor, even if the skunk has not sprayed. As with raccoons, an occasional visit by a skunk or a family of skunks may not be cause for concern, but if these visits become commonplace, some action is probably warranted. During the breed-ing season, males frequently spray when fighting over females. The pres-ence of these odors in late winter is a signal that skunks might be nearby and that it could be necessary to take appro-priate measures to prevent pregnant females from accessing potential nest-ing sites underneath buildings. Habitat Modification Potential den sites can be limited by cutting back overgrown shrubbery and by stacking firewood tightly. To reduce food sources, fallen fruit should be re-moved frequently. Garbage cans should have tight-fitting lids, and food items or table scraps should not be placed in compost bins. Food placed out-of-doors for pets should be removed by nightfall. Exclusion As with many other vertebrate pests, the best solution to skunk problems beneath porches or buildings is to screen or block them out. Close off all potential entrances or openings under houses, garden tool sheds, mobile homes, porches, and decks with 1⁄4-inch mesh hardware cloth. The advantage of using the small mesh is that it will also exclude rats and house mice if installed correctly. Skunks will work hard to get into a desirable denning space, so take care to make fittings good and tight. If there is soil underneath the potential entrances, bury the wire 6 inches to make a good seal. Once skunks have made their home beneath a building, the problem is a little more difficult because you have to be sure the animals have left before blocking the opening. One way to de-termine this is to sprinkle a smooth, 1⁄8-inch thick layer of flour just in front of the point of entrance to form a track-ing patch. Examine the tracking patch soon after dark; the presence of foot-prints will indicate that the animal has left and the opening can be closed. However, blocking the entrance is more problematic if there are several young left behind. If you are not sure that all the skunks beneath a building have left, a one-way, outward-swinging gate can be fashioned that will allow any re-maining skunks to leave but not to re-enter. This gate can be constructed from 1⁄2-inch mesh hardware cloth hinged at the top of the frame and left loose on the other three sides. It must be larger than the opening so that it can only swing outward (Fig. 2). Skunks will push it open to leave but will not be able to push it inward to reenter. This is ineffective, of course, if the kits are not yet mobile; kits not yet able to walk may have to be removed by other means. The placement of one or more floodlights beneath the building facing outward through the skunk’s entry point will often assist in driving them away from a location. Trapping Skunks can be trapped with an en-closed cage-type, live-catch trap. Plastic box traps are superior to wire traps because they are completely enclosed, thus reducing the risk of getting sprayed while removing the trapped animal from the site. Individuals who have no experience trapping skunks should hire a professional wildlife con-trol operator. Professionals have the experience and all the necessary equip-ment to trap and dispatch the animal. An experienced trapper is also much less apt to be sprayed, an event to be avoided if at all possible. Skunks cannot be relocated without a permit, and be-cause of the potential for rabies it is unlikely the Fish and Game Depart-ment will issue one. Other Control Methods A few commercial products are avail-able for repelling skunks, but unfortu-nately they are not very effective. Ordinary household ammonia has been used with some reported success as a home remedy repellent for driving skunks from beneath buildings. It is sometimes also suggested that food for skunks can be reduced by managing grubs and other insects in lawns. This is done with the hope that the animal will Figure 2. A one-way door constructed to allow an animal to exit but not to return. Screen door must overlap frame to pre-vent reentry. refrain from further digging. If your lawn is infested with insects or grubs, see Pest Notes: Lawn Insects, listed in References, or contact your local Coop-erative Extension office. Burrow fumigants such as gas or smoke cartridges may be used in rural areas if the burrows used by skunks can be located and are not under or near build-ings. They are not generally recom-mended for use in residential areas because of the risk of fire and penetra-tion of the gas into buildings. These cartridges are ignited and pushed into the skunk’s burrow. The burrow is then sealed off with soil and packed tightly to prevent the toxic and asphyxiating smoke from escaping. Follow the prod-uct instructions carefully. In rural areas where it is safe to do so, skunks may be spotlighted at night and shot. Since they may spray in the pro-cess, be selective in the location chosen for this control method. Odor Removal There are several options for odor re-moval. The chemical neutroleum-alpha is one of the most useful neutralizers for removing the unpleasant skunk scent on furniture or in buildings, but this material and products containing it are not readily available. There are also other commercial products sold for neutralizing or masking skunk odor. If
  • 3. June 2004 Skunks ◆ 3 ◆ For more information contact the University of California Cooperative Extension or agri-cultural commissioner’s office in your coun-ty. See your phone book for addresses and phone numbers. AUTHORS: T. P. Salmon, D. A. Whisson, and R. E. Marsh TECHNICAL EDITOR: M. L. Flint DESIGN, COORDINATION, AND PRODUCTION: M. Brush ILLUSTRATIONS: Fig. 1: Christine M. Dewees; Fig. 2: Chris O’Connor Produced by IPM Education and Publica-tions, UC Statewide IPM Program, Universi-ty of California, Davis, CA 95616-8620 This Pest Note is available on the World Wide Web (http://www.ipm.ucdavis.edu) This publication has been anonymously peer re-viewed for technical accuracy by University of Cal-ifornia scientists and other qualified professionals. This review process was managed by the ANR Associate Editor for Pest Management. To simplify information, trade names of products have been used. No endorsement of named products is intended, nor is criticism implied of similar products that are not mentioned. This material is partially based upon work supported by the Extension Service, U.S. Department of Agriculture, under special project Section 3(d), Integrated Pest Management. WARNING ON THE USE OF CHEMICALS Pesticides are poisonous. Always read and carefully follow all precautions and safety recommendations given on the container label. Store all chemicals in the original labeled containers in a locked cabinet or shed, away from food or feeds, and out of the reach of children, unauthorized persons, pets, and livestock. Confine chemicals to the property being treated. Avoid drift onto neighboring properties, especially gardens containing fruits or vegetables ready to be picked. Do not place containers containing pesticide in the trash nor pour pesticides down sink or toilet. Either use the pesticide according to the label or take unwanted pesticides to a Household Hazardous Waste Collection site. Contact your county agricultural commissioner for additional information on safe container disposal and for the location of the Household Hazardous Waste Collection site nearest you. Dispose of empty containers by following label directions. Never reuse or burn the containers or dispose of them in such a manner that they may contaminate water supplies or natural waterways. The University of California prohibits discrimination or harassment of any person on the basis of race, color, national origin, religion, sex, gender identity, pregnancy (including childbirth, and medical condi-tions related to pregnancy or childbirth), physical or mental disability, medical condition (cancer-related or genetic characteristics), ancestry, marital status, age, sexual orientation, citizenship, or status as a covered veteran (covered veterans are special disabled veterans, recently separated veterans, Vietnam era veterans, or any other veterans who served on active duty during a war or in a campaign or expedi-tion for which a campaign badge has been authorized) in any of its programs or activities. University policy is intended to be consistent with the provisions of applicable State and Federal laws. Inquiries regarding the University’s nondiscrimination policies may be directed to the Affirmative Action/Staff Personnel Services Director, University of California, Agriculture and Natural Resources, 300 Lakeside Drive, 6th Floor, Oakland, CA 94612-3550, (510) 987-0096. you cannot find such products easily, contact a professional wildlife control operator, who may be able to provide neutroleum-alpha or can tell you where it can be purchased. Do not use neutroleum-alpha on pets or people. If your dog or cat has confronted a skunk, call your veterinarian to deter-mine current recommendations for washing the animal to get rid of skunk odor. A home remedy formulation reported by some to be effective is as follows: 1 quart 3% hydrogen peroxide 1⁄4 cup baking soda 1 teaspoon liquid soap. Once the hydrogen peroxide is mixed with the baking soda, the mixture is unstable and generates oxygen, and thus cannot be bottled or stored. Ap-parently, oxidation changes the chemical composition of skunk scent so that it no longer smells. When the fresh mixture is applied to items con-taminated by skunk odor, the smell diminishes quickly. Any leftover mix-ture should be diluted several fold with water and poured down the drain. Hydrogen peroxide mixtures can be used safely on pets and people as well as on clothing and furniture. Rinse pets thoroughly with water after treatment. Skunk Bites Rabies, an infectious disease caused by a virus organism, is found in the saliva of infected animals. It affects only mammals and is transmitted most commonly by a bite. With the exception of bats, the disease is almost always fatal. People can survive the bite of a rabid animal, but only if medical attention is received in time. A physician should attend to ALL skunk bites, no matter how minor, and the local health department should be notified of the incident. Skunks that seem tame or listless and wander about during daylight hours should be treated with great caution because this behavior is symptomatic of rabies. Also, if they exhibit no fear of people or pets and show some aggres-sive behavior, chances are quite high that they are rabid. If you live in an area where skunks occur, be sure your dogs and cats are routinely vaccinated against rabies. Some dogs will confront skunks when-ever they get an opportunity. Even though they suffer when they get sprayed, some dogs never learn. COMPILED FROM Salmon, T. P., D. A. Whisson, and R. E. Marsh. In press. Wildlife Pest Control Around Gardens and Homes. 2nd ed. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 21385. REFERENCES Dreistadt, S. H., M. A. Harivandi, H. Costa, and J. S. Hartin. March 2003. Pest Notes: Lawn Insects. Oakland: Univ. Calif. Agric. Nat. Res. Publ. 7476.