Industrial attachment of interstoff Apparels Ltd.

[1]
National Institute of Textile Engineering & Research
(NITER)
Nayarhat,Savar,Dhaka
REPORT ON
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED
Chondra, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Dhaka, Bangladesh.
Name: FAZLA RABBI NASIM
Id: 1303119
Batch: 3rd
batch
Department: Wet Processing Engineering
Email: aponfurious@gmail.com

[2]
I. Acknowledgement
A number of people have made significant contributions in preparing this report. Their
insights, advice and suggestions helped me a lot. I would like to pay special thanks to
Prof.Dr. Mohammed Mizanur Rahman, Principal, National Institute of Textile Engineering
& Research (NITER), for continuously guiding us about the development and preparation
of the report. He has enriched us with necessary ideas and concepts for incessant
improvement of the report. I would also like to express my heartfelt thanks to my
supervising teacher Asst. Prof. Ismat Zerin, Head, department of Wet Processing
Engineering, NITER, For her encouragement & valuable suggestions for incessant
improvement of this report.
We would like to express our foremost gratitude to other officials of Interstoff Apparels ltd,
especially our course co-ordinator MD.Toslim Hossen Khan (Sr.Executive, R & D) & MD.
Lutfor Rahman (Deputy Manager, HR & Training).
We would also like to express our deep sense of gratitude and thanks to Deputy Manager
of knitting section for guiding us. We also express our gratitude to Mr. Masud Kamal,
Manager of Quality Lab. We would also thanks to Mr. Saiful Islam, Manager of Dyeing
Section & also thanks to Mr. Ali Ahmed (unit Sr. Manager Finishing). We would like to
convey our best regards to all the officials and workers of the Interstoff Apparels ltd. We
specially like to thank our parents & all of our family members for extending their helping
hand at a time when we need it most.
We remember all the care and love of our friends who made our every existence more
meaningful and worthy. Finally we would like to put special thanks to the authority of
Interstoff Apparels Limited for allowing us in their organization.

[3]
II. Introduction
By means of practical knowledge it's not possible to apply the theoretical knowledge in the
practical field. For any technical education, practical experience is almost equal important
in association with the theoretical knowledge.
The industrial attachment is the process, which builds understanding, skills and attitude of
the performer, which improves his knowledge in boosting productivity and services.
University education provides us vast theoretical knowledge as well as more practical
attachment, in despite of all these industrial attachment helps us to be familiar with
technical support of modern machinery, skillness about various processing stages.
It also provides us sufficient practical knowledge about production management, work
study, efficiency, industrial management, purchasing, utility and maintenance of
machinery and their operation techniques etc. the above mentioned cannot be achieved
successfully by means of theoretical knowledge only. This is why it should be
accomplished with practical knowledge in which it is based on. Industrial attachment
makes us reliable to be accustomed with the industrial atmosphere and improve courage
and inspiration to take self-responsibility.
Textile education cannot be completed without industrial training. Because this industrial
training minimizes the gap between theoretical and practical knowledge and make us
accustomed to industrial environment. I got an opportunity to complete two-months long
industrial. Training at Interstoff Apparels ltd, which is a 100% export-oriented composite
Industry. It has well planned & equipped fabric dyeing-finishing and garments units in
addition to facilitate knitting and knitwear manufacturing.

[4]
III. Table of Contents
I.
CHAPTER 01: DESCRIPTION OF PROJECT....................................................................9
1.1 Company Profile ................................................................................................................ 9
1.2 History Of The Project Development………………………………………………...10
1.3 Different Departments:....................................................................................................10
1.4 Physical Infrastructure: ...................................................................................................10
1.5 Remarks............................................................................................................................11
1.6 Site Location:....................................................................................................................11
CHAPTER 02: MAN POWER MANAGEMENT ........................................................................12
2.1 Management System: .....................................................................................................12
2.2.1 Board Of Director: .................................................................................................12
2.2.2 Organogram Of Knitting Section:........................................................................12
2.2.3 Organization Interstoff Apparels Ltd: .................................................................13
2.2.4 Organization Of Dyeing Section: ........................................................................14
2.2.5 Shift Change: ..........................................................................................................14
2.2.6 Shift Change For Worker: .....................................................................................14
2.2.7 General Shift For Staff:..........................................................................................14
2.3 Resposibilities Of Production Officer:...........................................................................15
2.3.1 Job Description Of P.O & S.P.O: ...........................................................................15
2.3.2 Purpose:.....................................................................................................................15
CHAPTER 03: MACHINE DESCRIPTION ................................................................................16
3.1 List Of Machineries:.........................................................................................................16
3.1.2 Knitting Section......................................................................................................16
3.1.3 Dyeing Section.......................................................................................................16
3.1.4 Finishing Section ...................................................................................................16
3.2 Knitting Machine Specification:- ....................................................................................17
3.2.1 Specification Of Circular Knitting Machine ........................................................17
3.2.2 Specification Of Flat Bed Knitting Machine.......................................................18
3.4. Layout Plan Of Dyeing Section: ...................................................................................19
3.5 Dyeing Machine Specification: ......................................................................................20

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3.6. Finishing Section Layout: ..............................................................................................24
3.6.1 Machine Description For Finishing Section: .....................................................25
3.7 Specification Of Machines In Lab .................................................................................26
3.8 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................28
CHAPTER 04: MATERIAL MANAGEMENT: ............................................................................29
4.1 Raw Materials:.....................................................................................................................29
4.1.1 Types Of Raw Materials: ........................................................................................29
4.1.2 Raw Materials Sources:...........................................................................................29
4.2 Annual Requirements: ....................................................................................................34
4.3 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................34
CHAPTER 05: PRODUCTION PLANNING SEQUENCE & OPERATION: .........................35
5.1 Knitting Section: ...............................................................................................................35
5.1.1 Knitting Section Is Divided In Four Sections:.....................................................36
5.1.2 Sequence Of Operations In Knitting Section.....................................................37
5.1.3 Process Flow Chart For Knitting ..........................................................................37
5.1.4 Types Of Fabric Produce In Interstoff Appeals Ltd...........................................38
5.1.5 Considerable Points To Produce Knitted Fabrics .............................................39
5.1.6 Production Parameter:...........................................................................................39
5.1.7 Different Parameter In Knitting Machine: ...........................................................39
5.1.8 Basic Knitting Elements.........................................................................................40
5.1.9 Different Parts Of Knitting Machine .....................................................................42
5.1.10 Faults &Remedies Of Knitting Fabrics: ............................................................46
5.1.11 Average Production: ............................................................................................48
5.2 Batch Section ...................................................................................................................49
5.2.1 Function Or Purpose Of The Batch:....................................................................49
5.2.2 Proper Batching Criteria:.......................................................................................49
5.2.3 Batch Management:...............................................................................................49
5.2.4 Remarks:..................................................................................................................49
5.3 Laboratory.........................................................................................................................50
5.3.1 Lab Department:....................................................................................................50
5.3.2 Sequence Of Lab Operations..............................................................................50
5.3.3 Soda & Salt Calculation: ......................................................................................52
5.3.4 Procedure For100 % Cotton Fabric: ..................................................................53
5.4 Dyeing Section:................................................................................................................54

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5.4.1 Flow Chart For Dyeing .........................................................................................54
5.4.2 Production Parameters: .......................................................................................54
5.4.3 Process For Dyeing Cotton: ................................................................................55
5.4.4 Main Parts Of The Machines ...............................................................................57
5.4.5 Description Of The Production Process: ...........................................................58
5.4.6 Common Dyeing Faults With Their Remedies .................................................62
5.4.7 Average Production: .............................................................................................65
5.4.8 Remarks: ................................................................................................................65
5.5 Finishing Section: ............................................................................................................65
5.5.1 Finishing: ................................................................................................................65
5.5.2 Objective Of Finishing: .........................................................................................65
5.5.3 Flow Chart Of Finishing Section .........................................................................66
5.5.4 Description Of Finishing Process: ......................................................................66
5.5.6 Average Production: .............................................................................................72
5.5.7 Remarks:..................................................................................................................73
CHAPTER 06: QUALITY ASSURANCE....................................................................................74
6.1 Quality Assurance System:............................................................................................74
6.1.1 Objects Of Quality Control:..................................................................................74
6.2 Quality Assurance Procedure:.......................................................................................74
6.3 Quality Standard: .............................................................................................................77
6.3.1 Quality Control In Grey Fabric Inspection: ........................................................79
6.3.2 Quality Control In Dyeing And Finishing:...........................................................79
6.4 Procedure Of The Different Tests:................................................................................80
6.5 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................85
CHAPTER 07: MAINTENANCE..................................................................................................86
7.1 Maintenance:....................................................................................................................86
7.1.1 Objectives Of Maintenance: ................................................................................86
7.2 Maintenance Of Machinery: ...........................................................................................86
7.3 Manpower Set-Up For Maintenance: ...........................................................................87
7.4 Maintenance Procedure: ................................................................................................87
7.5 Maintenance Tools & Equipments And Their Functions: ..........................................89
7.6 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................90
CHAPTER 08: UTILITY SERVICES...........................................................................................91
8.1 Utility Facilities Available: ...............................................................................................91

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8.2 Sources Of Utilities:.........................................................................................................91
8.3 Capacity And Other Technical Details: ........................................................................91
8.3.1 Power (Electricity): ................................................................................................91
8.3.2 Steam:.....................................................................................................................92
8.3.3compressed Air:......................................................................................................92
8.3.4 water:.......................................................................................................................92
8.3.5 Gas: .........................................................................................................................93
8.4 Cost Of Different Utilities: ...............................................................................................93
8.5 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................94
CHAPTER 09: STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL ................................................................95
9.1 Inventory System Of Raw Material: ..............................................................................95
9.2 Scope Of Inventory Control............................................................................................95
9.3 Spares: ..............................................................................................................................96
9.4 Finished Goods Inventory: .............................................................................................96
9.5 Remarks:...........................................................................................................................96
CHAPTER 10: COST ANALYSIS ...............................................................................................97
10.1 Costing Of The Product:...............................................................................................97
10.2 Price Of The Product: ...................................................................................................97
10.3 Costing Rule Of A Garments Which Are Giving Below:..........................................97
10.4 Remark............................................................................................................................97
CHAPTER 11: MARKETING ACTIVITIES ................................................................................98
11.1 Consumer Of The Products:........................................................................................98
11.2 Importing Countries:......................................................................................................98
11.3 Exporting Countries: .....................................................................................................98
11.4 Manpower Of Marketing:..............................................................................................98
11.5 Marketing Strategy: .......................................................................................................98
11.6 Price Quotation..............................................................................................................99
11.7 Duties & Responsib Ilities Of Marketing Officer .......................................................99
11.7.1 Job Summery ....................................................................................................99
11.8 Remarks........................................................................................................................100
CHAPTER 12: EFFLUENT TREATMENT PLANT.................................................................101
12.1 Micro Organism Is The Main Raw Material For Biological:...................................101
12.2 Different Unit Of Effluent Treatment Plant...............................................................102
12.3 Remarks:.......................................................................................................................103

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CONCLUSION .............................................................................................................................104
IV. List of Table
Table 1: Circular knitting machine specification .......................................................................18
Table 2: Flat bed knitting machine specification.......................................................................18
Table 3: Knitting Raw Material ....................................................................................................29
Table 4: List of dayes....................................................................................................................32
Table 5: Knitting machine list.......................................................................................................36
Table 6: Different knitting m/c parts ............................................................................................45
Table 7: Salt & soda calculation..................................................................................................52
Table 8: Dark shade recipe..........................................................................................................58
Table 9: Tem. Of different chamber in dryer m/c. ....................................................................68
Table 10: Reject criteria for body & Rib .....................................................................................78
Table 11: Reject criteria for body & Rib .....................................................................................79
Table 12: Shade match in light box ............................................................................................85
Table 13: Mechanical Maintenance of dyeing m/c ...................................................................88
Table 14: Electrical Maintenance of dyeing m/c .......................................................................89
Table 15: Maintenance tool equipment & function...................................................................90
Table 16: Standard water quality for dye house .......................................................................93
V. List of figure
Figure 1: Dyeing layout plan ........................................................................................................19
Figure 2: Finishing section layout ...............................................................................................24
Figure 3: Process curve of single stage cotton scouring & bleaching process. ..................56
Figure 4: Curve for soaping, biopolishing & Dyeing.................................................................60
Figure 5: Curve for neutralizing & Fixing. ..................................................................................61
Figure 6: De-watering m/c...........................................................................................................67
Figure 7: Dryer m/c........................................................................................................................68
Figure 8: Tube-Compactor m/c ...................................................................................................69
Figure 9: Slitting machine.............................................................................................................70
Figure 10: Stentering machine ....................................................................................................71
Figure 11: Open compactor machine .........................................................................................72
Figure 12: Effluent treatment plant ...........................................................................................102

[9]
CHAPTER 01
DESCRIPTIONOF PROJECT
1.1 COMPANY PROFILE
Name : INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED
Type : 100% Export Oriented Composite Knit Industry.
Year of establishment : 2003
Year of starting production : End of 2004
Location : Chandora, Kaliakoir, Gazipur, Dhaka.
Certification & awards : Wrap, ISO 9001:2000, FLO, CTPAT certified.
Production capacity-
Knitting : 9-9.5 tons/day
Dyeing : 8-8.5 ton/day
Finishing : 8-8.5 ton/day
Sewing : 40,000 pcs/day
The production capacity of INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD is an approximate idea, it may
vary.
Project cost : US$ 20 million per year.
Total area : Total floor space is 2, 00,000 sft.
Sponsor : Bangladesh and UK joint venture
Main Production : Basic T-Shirt, Long Sleeve, T-Shirt,
Polo Shirt, Pajama, Ladies, Kids
Knitwear& all kinds of knit
Garments & Knit fabrics.
Total working days : 355 days/year
Total working hours : 24 hours/day

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1.2 HISTORY OF THE PROJECT DEVELOPMENT :
INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD started their business by some knitting m/c in 2002. Then
at the end of 2004 they started their fabric processing plant and after that gradually they
expanded their garments section and print shop.
1.3 DIFFERENT DEPARTMENTS:
KNITTING SECTION : a) knitting
b) Inspection
DYEING SECTION : a) grey inspection
b) Batching section
c) Dye house
d) Finishing section
e) Lab and Q.C.
f) Quality control (on line)
PRINT SHOP : a) sample section
b) Production section
GARMENTS SECTION : a) product development
b)production merchandising
c)sample section
d) spreading and cutting section
e)CAD & CAM section
f) sewing section
g) finishing section
MAINTENACNE SECTION: a) electrical
b) Mechanical
STORAGE SECTION
SUPPORTING DEPARTMENT: a) personnel administration
b) HR
c) Procurement
d) Marketing
e) Finance and accounting
f) Security department
1.4 PHYSICAL INFRASTRUCTURE: The mill is built in such a way that there is
possibility for further expansion of the mill. The structure such as mill, office buildings,
record rooms, guardrooms & dining room etc. are made of solid hard concrete & brick
mtls. The whole area is surrounded by safety brick wall .The main set up for m/c’s are

[11]
built of corrugated iron & iron sheet, transparent hard plastics with enough ventilation &
scope for passing light & air.
E–mail Address :shahriar@araf.bangla.net, shafiq@icl.bdrmg.com.
Website : interstoff.wordpress.com
Phone : (8802) 928 9103. (88) 06822 51925
1.5 REMARKS: INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. is a profitable project and contributes
the economy of our country.
1.6 SITE LOCATION:
Interstoff apparels limited is situated in Chandora, Kaliakoir, Gazipur,
Dhaka,about fifteen kilometers far from Nobinagar.
There are two easy way to go from Dhaka.
1) Motijheel-Satrasta-Mohakhali-Uttara-Abdullahpur-Ashulia-Bipile-
chandra-pollibidut-Interstoff apparels limited.
2) Motijheel-Farmgate-Mirpur-Gabtoli-Savar-Nobinogor-Bipile-chandra-
pollibidut-Interstoff apparels limited.

[12]
CHAPTER 02
MAN POWER MANAGEMENT
2.1 MANAGEMENT SYSTEM:
The company has skilled administration, management and marketing team guided by
proficient, dexterous & experienced leaders of offer right solution for the consumers with
the right eminence & with the shortest lead-time for the export market in Bangladesh.
The best use of continuous development of human resources by providing them
International standard equal opportunity is the keys for achieving comprehensive
competence in all level of the organizational hierarchy.
2.2 ORGANOGRAM OF MANPOWER ADMINISTRATION:
2.2.1 BOARD OF DIRECTOR:
Mr. Nazim Uddin, Chairman.
Mr. Shahriar Alam, Managing Director
2.2.2 ORGANOGRAM OF KNITTING SECTION:
Knitting Manager
Assistant knitting manager
Senior Production Officer
Production officer
Asst. Production officer
Junior Production Officer
Supervisor
Operator
Helper

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2.2.3 ORGANIZATION INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD:
Organization flow chart of Interstoff Apparels ltd.
Manager
Admin
Manager
Merchandiser
Manager
Dyeing
1. Non-
sewing
defect
Manager
Production
(Sewing)
Manager
Finishing
Cutting
Manager
Sample
Manage
r
Assistant
Manager
Assistant
Merchandiser
Manager
Assistant
Dyeing
Manager
Finishing
in charge
Assistant
Cutting
Manager
Quality
Controlle
r
Assistant
Production
Manager
Senior
Executiv
e Officer
Senior
Executive
Merchandiser
Production
Officer
Quality
Controller Quality
Supervisor
Production
Officer
Senior
Officer Merchandiser Shift in
Charge
Supervisor
Machine
Operator
Quality
Shift inCharge
Admin
Officer
Assistant
Merchandiser
Quality
Controller
Iron
Man
Label Man
Senior
Cutting Man
Quality
Controller
Office
Assistant Peon Supervisor
Folding
Man
Helper Cutting
Man
Basic
salaryΧ 2
208
hours
Supervisor
Peon Quality
Packing
Man
Pattern
Master
Iron Man
Line Chief
Operator
Helper
Χ
Excess
hours
Assistant
Pattern
Master
Helper
Swing
Operator
Quality
General Manager
Director
Managing director
Chairman
Helper
Operator

[14]
2.2.4 ORGANIZATION OF DYEING SECTION:
General Manager Deputy
General Manager
Manager
Deputy Production Manager
Asstt. Production Manager
Sr. Production Officer
Production Officer
Supervisor
Asstt. Supervisor
Sr. Operator
Operator Asstt.
Operator
Helper
2.2.5 SHIFT CHANGE: There are three shifts in the industry. So the shifts are changed
at every 8 hours.
2.2.6 Shift Change for worker:
Shift A – 6.00-2.00 Pm
Shift B – 2.00 – 10.00 Pm
Shift C – 10.00 – 6.00 Pm
2.2.7 General shift for staff:
Shift A– 08:00 – 20:00
Shift B– 20:00 – 08:00

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Management personal work on general shift of duration 9.00am to 6.00pm and 6 days per
week.
2.3 RESPOSIBILITIES OF PRODUCTION OFFICER:
1. To check recipe according to lab dip
2. To check shade
3. To m/c plan
4. To check the dyeing process
5. To manage floor
6. To accelerate in arranging batch
7. To carry out the order of production manager
2.3.1 JOB DESCRIPTION OF P.O & S.P.O:
Job title: Production officer & Senior Production officer.
Report to: Production Manager.
2.3.2 PURPOSE:
To control shift according to the plan made by the production manager
Shift in charge: 1
Supervisor: 1

[16]
CHAPTER 03
MACHINE DESCRIPTION
3.1 LIST OF MACHINERIES:
3.1.2 Knitting section
1. Single jersey 47
2. Rib machine 05
3. Interlock M/C 06
4. Fleece M/C 08
5. Engineering Stripe Machine 02
6. Flat bed 28
7. Grey Fabric Inspection 04
3.1.3 Dyeing section
1. Sample dyeing machine 11
2. Bulk dyeing machine 10
3.1.4 Finishing section
1. Slitter 02
2. Dewatering Machine 02
3. Stenter 02
4. Dryer 01
5. Tube compactor 01
6. Open width compactor 01
8. InspectionMachine 01
9. Turning Machine 01

[17]
3.2 KNITTING MACHINE SPECIFICATION:-
3.2.1 SPECIFICATION OF CIRCULAR KNITTING MACHINE
Serial Machine Brand Origin
M/C
diameter
Gauge Feeder QTY
1 Single jersey Fukahama Taiwan 20" 24 60 1 SET
2 " Fukahama " 21" 24 63 1 SET
3 " Fukahama " 22" 24 66 1 SET
4 " Fukahama " 24" 24 72 1 SET
5 " Fukahama " 22" 24 61 1 SET
6 " Fukahama " 23" 24 69 1 SET
7 " Fukahama " 24" 24 72 1 SET
8 " Fukahama " 24" 24 72 1 SET
9 " Tien Yang Taiwan 25" 24 75 1 SET
10 " Fukahama " 25" 24 75 1 SET
11 " Fukahama " 26" 24 78 1 SET
12 " Well-knit " 24" 24 1 SET
13 " TERROT Germany 26" 24 84 2 SET
14 " TERROT " 34" 24 109 4 SET
15 RIB Fukahama Taiwan 36" 18 72 1 SET
16 Single jersey Tien Yang " 36" 24 108 1 SET
17 Fleece " " 30" 20 90 5 SET
18 Interlock Tien Yang Taiwan 30" 22 60 1 SET
19 RIB TERROT Germany 36" 18 84 1 SET
20 " TERROT " 30" 18 54 1 SET
21 Single jersey TERROT " 30" 24 96 11 SET
22 Interlock TERROT " 36" 24 130 1 SET
23 Single jersey TERROT " 34" 24 109 8 SET
24 Fleece Fukahama Taiwan 28" 24 84 1 SET
25 " Tien Yang " 34" 20 102 2 SET
26 Single jersey Well-knit " 34" 24 102 2 SET
27 Auto stripe JUMBARCA Spain 30" 24 2 SET
28 Single jersey TERROT Germany 30" 32 96 2 SET
29 " TERROT " 36" 24 115 6 SET
30 RIB " " 38" 18 68 2 SET
31 Eng. stripe
MAYER &
CIE
" 30" 24 96 2 SET

[18]
32 RIB/Interlock Fukahara Japan 34" 18/24 70 1 SET
33 " " " 36 18/24 74 3 SET
Total No of machines 70 SET
Table 1: Circular knitting machine specification
3.2.2 SPECIFICATION OF FLAT BED KNITTING MACHINE
Serial machine Brand Origin M/C diameter Gauge Feeder QTY
1 Flat bed JY-LEH Taiwan 52" 14 06
6
SET
2 " MATSUYA Japan 44" 14 06
5
SET
3 "
LEADING
TIGER
China 40" 14 06
2
SET
4 " KAUD-HENG Taiwan 54" 14 06
4
SET
5 "
LEADING
TIGER
China 60" 14 06
3
SET
6 " PROTTI Italy 84" 14 06
5
SET
7 "
LEADING
TIGER
China 60" 14 06
3
SET
Total No of machines
28
SET
Table 2: Flat bed knitting machine specification

[19]
3.4. LAYOUT PLAN OF DYEING SECTION:
Figure 1: Dyeing layout plan

[20]
3.5 DYEING MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
Dyeing Machines:
In INTERSTOFF APPERALS Ltd. There are 21 dyeing machines. Among them 11 are
sample dyeing machine and 10 are bulk dyeing machine. The description and
specifications of the machine are given below-
M/c no: 01
Type: Fabric dyeing m/c
Brand: Thies
Max. Temp: 98ºC
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 630 kg
Nozzel: 03
M/c no: 02
Brand: Thies
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 450 kg
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 03
Brand: Thies.
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Germany
Capacity: 450 kg
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 04
Brand: Thies.
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 270 kg
Nozzle: 01
M/c no: 05
Brand: DILMENLER
Max. Temp: 140ºC
Origin: Turkey
Capacity: 900 kg.
Nozzle: 03

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M/c no: 06
Brand: DILMENLER
Max. Temp: 140ºC
Origin: Turkey
Capacity: 600kg
Nozzle: 02
M/c no: 07
Brand: FONG’S
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: china.
Capacity: 600 kg.
Nozzle: 03
M/c no: 08
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 250 kg
Nozzle: 02
M/c no: 09
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 100 kg
Nozzle: 01
M/c no: 10
Brand: Textlink.
Max. Temp: N/A
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 120 kg.
Nozzle: 01
Sample dyeing M/c no: 01
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 30 kg
Brand: THIES.

[22]
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 20 kg
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 20 kg
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 10 kg
Brand: THIES
Max. Temp: 98ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 35 kg
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 20 kg
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 30 kg
Brand: SUNTEX
Max. Temp: 135ºc
Origin: Switzerland
Capacity: 50 kg
Brand: TEXLINK
Max. Temp: N/A

[23]
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 65 kg
Brand: TEXLINK
Max. Temp: N/A
Origin: N/A
Capacity: 120 kg
Brand: SONTECH
Max. Temp: 140ºc
Origin: Germany.
Capacity: 275 kg

[24]
3.6. FINISHING SECTION LAYOUT:
Figure 2: Finishing section layout

[25]
3.6.1 MACHINE DESCRIPTION FOR FINISHING SECTION:
Finishing sectionis consisting of two lines. They are –
A. Tube line
B. Open line
A. The machine that are used for open line are given bellow –

Slitting and Dewatering machine.

Stenter machine

Compactor machine
B. The machines that are used for tube line are given bellow –.

Dewatering machine

Dryer

Compactor machine
FINISHNG MACHINE SPECIFICATION:
 Name: Dewatering m/c
Brand Name: AB CALATOR
Company Name: AIRTEX CALATOR
Origin: Sweden
 Name: Dryer
Brand Name: suntex group
Origin: Switzerland
 Name: Monti Tube Compactor
Brand Name: Monti
Origin: Italy
 Name: Compactor (open)
Brand Name: Lafer
Origin: Italy
 Name: Slitter & Dewatering m/c.
Brand Name: bianco
Origin: Germany
 Name: Stenter m/c (4 chamber)
Brand Name: BRUCKNER
Origin: Germany
 Name: Stenter m/c (5 chamber)
Brand Name: BRUCKNER
Origin: Germany

[26]
3.7 SPECIFICATION OF MACHINES IN LAB
Yarn tester
m/c code : M003
m/c name : yarn tester
masde in : ittaly
installation date : 08.01.2008
Hanna PH meter
m/c code : M006
m/c name : Hanna PH tester
masde in : iportugal
Electric balance
m/c name : Electric balance
masde by : Canada
supplier : Roaches
Carbulite
m/c name : Carbulite
made in : England
supplier : Maizime trading company
Sample dryer
m/c code : M19
m/c name : sample dryer
made in : spain
supplier : Maizime trading company
Conditioning cabinet
m/c name : conditioning cabinet
made in : USA
Sunflower washing m/c
Origin : China
Brand : Sunflower
Instalation date : 01-10-07

[27]
Fisher& payled washing m/c
Origin : UK
Brand : Fisher & paylsel
Wascator FOM71 CLS
Origin : Sweden
Brand : Electrolux
M223/2 precision tumble dryer
Origin : England
Brand : SDLATLAS
Washtec-p
Origin : England
Brand : Roaches
Conditioning cabinet
Origin : China
Brand : Shanghai sansher medical instrument company Ltd
Deiomizer
Origin : Uk
Brand : Elga
Spectrophotometer
Origin : USA
Brand : Data color international
Lab dyeing machine double bath
Name : Infrared pyrotec
Made by : Roaches
Made in : EngLand
Supplier : Roaches
Lab dyeing machine single bath
Name : Infrared pyrotec
Made by : Roaches
Made in : EngLand
Supplier : Roaches Water heater
Crock meter
Made by : Roaches England
Made in : England
Supplier : roaches

[28]
3.8 REMARKS: Most of the dyeing and finishing machineries of INTERSTOFF
APPARELS LTD isconventional and old specially the Theis machines and the Fongs
machine are quite back dated, the dewatering machine as well as. Recently they
improving their dyeing and finishing machine.

[29]
CHAPTER 04
MATERIAL MANAGEMENT:
4.1 RAW MATERIALS:
Raw material is a unique substance in any production oriented textile industry. It plays a
vital role in continuous production and for high quality fabric.
4.1.1 Types of Raw Materials:
1. Yarn
2. Fabric
3. Dye stuff
4. Chemical and auxiliaries
4.1.2 Raw Materials Sources:
1. YARN:
Cotton Yarn:
1. ARMAN Spinning Mill.
2. NAHAR Spinning Mill.
3. AKIJ Spinning Mill.
4. BEXIMCO Spinning Mill.
Polyester Yarn: India
Lycra: Singapore, Indonesia, Korea, Japan
2. FABRIC:
01. INTERSTOFF KNITTING LTD.
02. SOUTH EAST TEXTILE LTD.
KNITTING RAW MATERIAL:
Cotton 24S, 26s,30S, 32S,34S,40S
Polyester 75D, lO0D
Spandex yarn 20D,40D, 70D
Grey Mélange (C 24S,26S
Ecru Mélange (C-85% V-15%) 24S,26S,28S
Anthra Mélange (C-65% V-35%) 24S,26S,28S
PC (65%Polyester & 35% cotton) 24S,26S,28S,30S
CVC 24S,26S,28S,30S
Table 3: Knitting Raw Material

[30]
3. FABRIC:
Again grey fabric of following construction are commonly are dyed
 Single jersey
 Single jersey with lycra
 Polo pique
 Single lacoste
 Fleece
 Interlock
 Rib
 Rib with lycra
 1Χ1 rib
 2Χ2 rib
 Different types of collar & cuff.
The knitting section of INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD is not sufficient enough to
supply all the fabric needed by fabric processing plant. It is capable to fulfill only one forth
the fabric processing plant’s demand. Rest of the grey fabric needed is knitted in other
industries through sub contract.
4. CHEMICALS
 Dyes.
 Chemicals
 Auxiliaries.
DYES:
LIST OF DYES USED IN INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD.
Sl.
No. Name of the Dyes Type Source
01 Ciba Yellow FN2R Reactive Dye Swiss Color
02 Ciba Red FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
03 Ciba Red FN2BL Reactive Dye Swiss Color
04 Ciba Blue FNR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
05 Ciba Br. Blue FNG Reactive Dye Swiss Color
06 Ciba Red FN3F Reactive Dye Swiss Color
07 Ciba Yellow F4G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
08 Ciba Scarlet F3G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
09 Ciba Yellow WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
10 Ciba Red WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color

[31]
11 Ciba Navy WB Reactive Dye Swiss Color
12 Ciba Dk. Blue WR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
13 Ciba Red HF Reactive Dye Swiss Color
14 Ciba Orange HR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
15 Ciba Navy H2G Reactive Dye Swiss Color
16 Ciba Black WHF Reactive Dye Swiss Color
17 Drim Yellow HFR Reactive Dye Clariant
18 Drim Red HF2B Reactive Dye Clariant
19 Drim Blue HFRL Reactive Dye Clariant
20 Drim Yellow CL2R Reactive Dye Clariant
21 Drim Red CL5B Reactive Dye Clariant
22 Drim Navy CLB Reactive Dye Clariant
23 Drim Orange CL3R Reactive Dye Clariant
24 Drim Yellow CL3GL Reactive Dye Clariant
25 Drim Turquis CLB Reactive Dye Clariant
26 Drim Turquis K2B Reactive Dye Clariant
27 Remazol Yellow RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
28 Remazol Red RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
29 Remazol Blue RR Reactive Dye Dyestar
30 Remazol Br Blue (RSPL) Reactive Dye Dyestar
31 Remazol Blue BB Reactive Dye Dyestar
32 Remazol T/Blue G Reactive Dye Dyestar
33 Remazol Yellow 3RS Reactive Dye Dyestar
34 Remazol Red 3BS Reactive Dye Dyestar
35 Dianx Yellow SEG Disperse Dychufix
36 Dianx Red CC Disperse Dychufix
37 Dianx Navy CC Disperse Dychufix
38 Sunfix Yellow EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
39 Sunfix Red EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
40 Sunfix Blue EXF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
41 Sunfix Blue BRF Reactive Dye Sumitomo
42 Sunfix Yellow S3RD Reactive Dye Sumitomo
43 Sunfix Red S3BD Reactive Dye Sumitomo
44 Remazol Yellow GR Reactive Dye Dyestar
45 Remazol Red F3S Reactive Dye Dyestar
46 Remazol Navy Blue RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar
47 Remazol G. Yellow RNB Reactive Dye Dyestar
48 Bezactive Red VBN Reactive Dye Bezema
49 Bezactive Yellow V2R Reactive Dye Bezema
50 Foron Red SWF Reactive Dye N/A

[32]
51 Foron Navy SWF Reactive Dye N/A
52 Dianix Blue ER Disperse Dychufix
53 Dianix Black CCR Disperse Dychufix
54 Kemifix Yellow FRL Reactive Dye N/A
55 Kemifix Red 3BS Reactive Dye N/A
56 Kemifix Red F6B Reactive Dye N/A
57 Kemifix Yellow 4G Reactive Dye N/A
58 Kemifix Blue F2R Reactive Dye N/A
59 Kemifix Orange 2RL Reactive Dye N/A
60 Impozyn Black VB Reactive Dye Impo color
61 Impozyn Red 3BF Reactive Dye Impo color
62 Impozyn Yellow E3R Reactive Dye Impo color
63 Impozyn Blue V3R Reactive Dye Impo color
64 Impozyn T. Blue VG Reactive Dye Impo color
65 Impozyn Br. Orange V3R Reactive Dye Impo color
66 Tera Yellow W4G Disperse Swiss Color
67 Tera G. Yellow W3R Disperse Swiss Color
68 Tera Navy WRS Disperse Swiss Color
69 Tera Red W4BS Disperse Swiss Color
70 Tera Blue WBLS Disperse Swiss Color
71 Tera Black WNS Disperse Swiss Color
72 Tera Black BFE Disperse Swiss Color
73 Drimarin G. Yellow K2R Reactive Dye Clariant
74 Drimarin Blue CLBR Reactive Dye Clariant
75 Drimarin Blue K2RL Reactive Dye Clariant
76 Remazol Carbon RGB Reactive Dye Dyestar
77 Remazol Black B Reactive Dye Dyestar
78 Remazol Red RB Reactive Dye Dyestar
79 Levafix Blue CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
80 Levafix Rubine CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
81 Levafix Amber CA Reactive Dye Dyestar
82 Ciba Yellow HG Reactive Dye Swiss Color
83 Ciba Blue HRN Reactive Dye Swiss Color
84 Ciba Red HBL Reactive Dye Swiss Color
85 Ciba Orange EBR Reactive Dye Swiss Color
86 Solacion Yellow HEXL Reactive Dye N/A
87 Solacion Red HEXL Reactive Dye N/A
88 Bezactive Turquis VGC Reactive Dye Bezema
Table 4: List of dayes.

[33]
LIST OF CHEMICALS USED
Acid
 Acetic acid
 Hydrochloric Acid
Detergent
 Sandoclean PCLE
Levelling Agent
 Drimazine E2R
Sequestering Agent
 LanapexHTS
Salt
 Gluber Salt
 Common Salt
Softener
 SoftamineCL
 Sapamine CWS
 Dekol SN
Fixing Agent
 Cyclonol ERL
Reducing Agent
 Hydrose
Bleaching Agent
 H2O2
Enzyme
 Bioace
 Tinozyme 44L
Stabilize
 apex HPST

[34]
Anticreasing Agent
 Depsolube ACA
PH Controller
 Acid
 Soda Ash
 Caustic soda
Per-oxide Killer
 Na Thiosuphite
4.2 ANNUAL REQUIREMENTS:
To determine annual requirements is very tuff. It mainly depends on the buyer order
and subcontract order. When the buyer order is large then the consumption is high
and vice-versa.
The annual requirements of grey fabric depend on the buyer order and the
requirements of dyes and chemicals depend on the color depth.
4.3 REMARKS:
For smooth running of a factory uninterrupted supply of raw materials is very
essential. As soon as I saw the raw material control of INTERSTOFF APPARELS
LTD is good.

[35]
CHAPTER 05
PRODUCTIONPLANNING SEQUENCE & OPERATION:
Production of the industry describe to the below sequentially given which may
expresses the working principle of every operation:
5.1 KNITTING SECTION:
KNITTING:
Knitting is the process of creating fabric by the intermeshing of loops of yarn. Each row
of such loops hanging from the one immediately preceding it. There are two types of
knitted fabric-
 Warp knitted fabric:Each loop in the horizontal direction is made from a
differentthread and the number of threads used to produce such a fabric is at least
equal to the number of loops in a horizontal row.
Warp knitted fabric.
 Weft knitted fabric: A horizontal row of loops can be made using one thread and
thethread runs in horizontal direction.
Weft knitted fabric.

[36]
5.1.1 KNITTING SECTION IS DIVIDED IN FOUR SECTIONS:
1. Inspection section
2. Flat knitting section
3. Circular Knitting section
4. Store section
I. Cloth Inspection Section:
In cloth inspection section four machines are available.
2. Flat Knitting Section:
Generally collar, cuff of knitted garments is produced in this section.
3. Circular Knitting Section:
This section contains 70 circular knitting machines. Circular knitting machines are of
different types, made by different manufacturer and also have different specifications.
In this section body fabric for knitted garments is produced. The different
specifications of different machines are given one after another
4. Store section:
In this section knitted fabric and yarns are stored.
MACHINE LIST OF KNITTING SECTION IN IAL:
Table 5: Knitting machine list
Machine name Machine Quantity
Circular Knitting(Single jersey) Machine 47
Circular Knitting(Rib) Machine 5
Circular Knitting(Fleece) Machine 8
Circular Knitting(Interlock) Machine 2
Circular Knitting(Rib/Interlock) Machine 4
Engineering Stripe Machine 2
V-bed Knitting Machine 28
Grey Fabric Inspection Machine 4

[37]
5.1.2 SEQUENCE OF OPERATIONS IN KNITTING SECTION
Sample Fabric
Design Analysis
Setting the Machine for Specific Design
Sample making for production
Quality Verification
Production
Fabric Inspection
Send To Batching
5.1.3 PROCESS FLOW CHART FOR KNITTING
Yarn in package form
Place the yarn package in the creel
Feeding the yarn
Set the m/c as per design & gsm
Knitting
Withdraw the rolled fabric and weighting
Inspection
Numbering

[38]
5.1.4 TYPES OF FABRIC PRODUCE IN INTERSTOFF APPEALS LTD.
 single Jersey
 Single Lacost
 Double Lacost
 P/C Lycra Baby Terry
 Fleece fabric
 Pique
 2*2 RIB
 1*1 RIB
 Lycra single jersey
 Stripe fabric
 Grey Mélange (5%,10%,15% viscose)
 Mesh
 Waffle
 Herringbone jersey
 Mesh Pique
 Mini pique

[39]
5.1.5 CONSIDERABLE POINTS TO PRODUCE KNITTED FABRICS
When a buyer orders for fabric then they mention some points related to production &
quality. Before production of knitted fabric, these factors are needed to consider. These
are follows-
 Type of fabric or design of fabric.
 Fabric composition.
 Finished G.S.M
 Yarn count.
 Types of Yarn (combed or carded)
 Diameter of the fabric.
 Stitch length.
 Color depth.
5.1.6 PRODUCTION PARAMETER:
 Machine Diameter;
 Machine rpm (revolution per minute);
 No. of feeds or feeders in use;
 Machine Gauge;
 Count of yarn;
 Required time (M/C running time);
 Machine running efficiency.
5.1.7 DIFFERENT PARAMETER IN KNITTING MACHINE:
Machine pitch: It is defined as the distance between the centers of the two adjacent
needleof the same row indicated in mm.
Machine Gauge (E):
Machine gauge denotes the number of needles per inch arranged on the needle
carrier & based on the nominal machine diameter.
Gauge (E) = (25.4/ pitch) mm.
ILoops: It is a basic unit by which fabric produced & meshed at its base with previous
one.
Knit Loop

[40]
Stitch: The smallest dimensionally stable unit of all knitted fabrics is the stitch. It consists
of ayarn loop which is held together by being intermeshed with another stitch or other
loops.
Knit Stitch
Stitch length: Stitch length is the length of yarn which includes the needle loop & half
thesinker loop on either side of it. Generally the larger the stitch length, the more
extensible & lighter the fabric & poorer the cover, opacity & brushing strength.
Stitch length
5.1.8 BASIC KNITTING ELEMENTS
 Needle
 Sinker
 Cam.
FUNCTION OF NEEDLES: Needle is raised to clear the old loop from the hook & to
receivethe new loop above it on the needle steam. In general there are three types of
needles
 Bearded needle.
Bearded needle

[41]
 Latch needle.
Latch needle
 Compound needle.
Compound needle
FUNCTION OF CAM
 To produce motion of needles.
 To drive the needles.
 Formation of loops.
I n d u
Knit Cam
FUNCTION OF SINKER
It may one or more of the following functions dependent upon the machines knitting action
& consequent sinker shape & movement.
Sinker

[42]
5.1.9 DIFFERENT PARTS OF KNITTING MACHINE
Creel:
Creel is a part of a knitting machine.
Hear yarn package are store and ready
to feed in the machine
VDQ pulley:
It is a very important part of the machine. It controls the
quality of the product. Altering the position of the
tension pulley changes the G.S.M. of the fabric. If pulley
moves towards the positive directive then the G.S.M. is
decrease. And in the reverse direction G.S.M will
increase.
Pulley belt:
It controls the rotation of the MPF wheel.
Brush:
Its clean the pulley belt.
Tension disk:
It confront the tension of the supply yarn
Inlet and outlet stop motion:
It is a important parts of the machine. It
stops the machine instantly when a yarn
is break.

[43]
Yarn guide:
Its help the yarn to feed in the feeder.
MPF Wheel:
Its control the speed of the MPF. Pulley
belt gives motion to the wheel.
MPF:
It isMamenger positive feed. Is is also
an important parts of the machine. It’s
give positive feed to the machine.
Feeder ring:
It is a ring. Where all feeders are pleased together.
Feeder:
Feeder is help yarn to feed in to the machine.
Needle:
It is a principal element of the knitting machine. Its help
the yarn to create a loop. And by this way fabric are
produce. Prior to yarn feeding the needle is raised to
clear the old loop from the hook, and received the new
loop above it on needle stem. The new loop is then
enclosed in the needle hook as the needle starts to
descend.
Sinker:
It is most important element of the
machine. Its help to loop forming,
knocking over and holding down the
loop.

[44]
Needle track:
Where all needle is placed together in a decent design.
Cam box:
Where the cam are set horizontally
Cam:
Cam is device s which converts the
rotary machine drive in to a suitable
reciprocating action for the needles and
other elements.
Lycra Attachment:
Lycra is placed hear. And feeding to the
machine.
Sensors:
It is one kind of stop motion to stop the
machine when the lycra is break.
Cylinder:
Needle track are situated hear
Screen:
it is a digital screen. Which show the all
machine information and we can give
command to the machine.

[45]
Inverter:
It is the heart of the circular knitting
machine. Its control the speed of the
machine.
Automatic oiler:
Its give the machine oil all the time properly and
automatically.
Power Switch
ON/OFF Switch:
It help the m/c to start and stop.
Manual drive:
To drive the machine manually.
Machine motherboard:
All the Electronic parts are placed hear.
Table 6: Different knitting m/c parts

[46]
5.1.10 FAULTS &REMEDIES OF KNITTING FABRICS:
1. Hole Mark:
Causes:
 During loop formation the yarn breaks in the rejoin of the needle hook.
 Holes are the results of yarn breakage or yarn cracks.
 If the yarn count is not correct on regarding structure, gauge, course and
density.
 Badly Knot or splicing
Remedies:
 Yarn strength must be sufficient to withstand the stretch as well as uniform.
 Use proper count of yarn.
 Correctly set of yarn feeder.
2. Needle Mark:
Causes:
 When a needle breaks down then needle mark comes along the fabrics.
 If a needle or needle hook is slightly bends then needle mark comes on the
fabrics.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight as well as from broken latch.
3. Sinker Mark :
Causes:
 When sinker corrode due to abrasion then sometimes cannot hold a new
 Loop as a result sinker mark comes.
 If sinker head bend then sinker mark comes.
Remedies:
 Sinker should be changed.
4. Star Mark :
Causes:
 Yarn tension variation during production.
 Buckling of the needle latch.
 Low G.S.M fabric production.
Remedies:
 Maintain same Yarn tension during production.
 Use good conditioned needles.
5.Drop Stitches :

[47]
Causes:
 Defective needle.
 If yarn is not properly fed during loop formation i.e. not properly laid on to the
needle hook.
 Take-down mechanism too loose.
 Insufficient yarn tension.
 Badly set yarn feeder.
Remedies:
 Needle should be straight & well.
 Proper feeding of yarn during loop formation.
 Correct take up of the fabric & correct fabric tension.
 Yarn tension should be properly.
6. Oil stain :
Causes:
 When oil lick through the needle trick then it pass on the fabrics and make a Line.
Remedies:
 Ensure that oil does not pass on the fabrics.
 Well maintenance as well as proper oiling.
7. Pin hole:
Causes:
 Due to break down or bend of the latch, pin hole may come in the fabric.
Remedies:
 Change the needle.
8. Barrie:
A fault in weft knitted fabric appearing as light or dark course wise (width wise)
stripe(s).
Causes:
 This fault comes from yarn fault.
 If different micro near value of fiber content in yarn.
 Different lusture, dye affinity of fiber content in yarn.
 During spinning different similar classes of fiber is mixed specially in
carded yarn & these fibers have similar characteristics.
 In draw fame different similar classes sliver is mixed and make one sliver.
Remedies:
 We can use this fabric in white color.
9. Fly:
Causes:

[48]
 In knitting section too much lint is flying to and fro that are created from yarn
due to low twist as well as yarn friction. This lint may adhere or attaches to the
fabric surface tightly during knit fabric production.
Remedies:
 Blowing air for cleaning and different parts after a certain period of time.
 By cleaning the floor continuously.
 By using ducting system for cleaning too much lint in the floor.
10. Yarn contamination :
Causes:
 If yarn contains foreign fiber then it remains in the fabric even after
finishing,
 If lot, count mixing occurs.
Remedies:
 Byavoiding lot, count mixing.
 Fault less spinning.
5.1.11 AVERAGE PRODUCTION: Monthly average production in knitting is 280-300 to

49
5.2 BATCH SECTION
According to TextileGlossary.com ––
“A group of units of products of the same type, structure, color and finish, class and
composition, manufactured under essentially the same conditions and essentially at the
same time, and submitted at any one time for inspection and testing.”
5.2.1 Function or purpose of the batch:
 To receive the grey fabric roll from knitting section or other source
 To prepare the batch of fabric for dyeing according to the following
parameter:
Order sheet (Received from buyer)
Dyeing shade (Color or white, Light or Dark)
M/C capacity
Fabric structure
Yarn type, etc
 To send the grey fabric to the dyeing floor by trolley with batch card.
 To keep records for every previous dyeing.
5.2.2 Proper batching criteria:
 To use maximum capacity of existing dyeing m/c
 To ensure every dyeing m/c running in full production.
 To minimize the m/c washing time or preparation time.
5.2.3 Batch management:
Primary batch is done by the dyeing manager. Batch section in charge receives
this primary batch plan from dyeing manager. Then the works is adjusting, according to
m/c condition.
5.2.4 Remarks: Proper batch can minimize the batch to batch shade variation. It can
near or same dyeing condition for every batch of same shade. Thus it improves the
dyeing quantity minimize dyeing cost a lot.

50
5.3 LABORATORY
5.3.1 Lab department:
Lab dip is a process by which buyers supplied swatch is matched with the varying
Dyes percentage in the laboratory with or without help of “DATA COLOR”
Lab dip plays an important role in shade matching & and detaching the characteristics
of the dyes and chemicals are to be used in the large scale of production so this is an
important task before bulk production.
5.3.2 SEQUENCE OF LAB OPERATIONS
A number of operations are done in lab section. This are-
Swatch receives (physical STD. Or reflectance value)
Fabric & dye selection
Recipe prediction
Sampling & pipetting
Dyeing
Dispatch
Fabric is always recommended by buyer & dyes selection depends upon the technician
decision.
 Swatch receives: Swatch is received from the buyer & it comes to the lab section
through the merchandiser.
 Fabric & dye selection: According to the buyer swatch , the type of fabric is
selected &the dye selection depends on the following factor:
 The dye stuff contains “Metamerism” or not.
 The dye stuff is suitable for producing particular color.
 Sometimes buyers recommended the dye to produce particular color.
 The cost of dye stuff.
 Recipe prediction: Recipe is determined by matching with reference book or
Spectrophotometer.
 By the spectrometer the std. of the swatch is saved in computer.

51
 Then by data color software after selecting the dye some recipes are found with
the best suitable recipe comes first & then others.
 If the recipe shows “Metamerism” then changes the selected dye.
 Sampling & pipetting: According to the recipe, the required fabric, dyes &
chemicals areweighted & stock solutions are made. Then pipe ting is done
according to the recipe. Stock solutions are made according to the recipe%.
For Auxiliaries:
Salt – 20% stock solution; Soda: 10% stock solution.
Acetic Acid: 0.5 g/l; Detergent: 200ml/l;
Leveling agent: 3.5 g/l;
 Dyeing: After completing pipe ting according to the recipe, the weighted fabric is
taken insample dyeing Machine beaker & dyeing is completed. Here sample wt.
10gm & liquor ratio 1:8.
If the buyer chooses the sample then the recipe is send to the dyeing section for
bulk production through lab dip program card.
 Dispatch: After completing dyeing, the samples are checked by spectrophotometer
or byeye vision in verified matching cabinet. If it shows “Metamerism” then recipe
correction is done & again samples are prepared until no “Metamerism” & shade
match occur. Then in a lab dip card 3 samples are attached. One card is sent to
merchandiser & another to buyer through merchandiser.

52
5.3.3 SODA & SALT CALCULATION:
INTERSTOFF APPARELS LIMITED use the following chart for calculate the amount of
salt and soda according to the shade% -
Light shade :
M:L Sample weight
1:10 10 gm.
Medium shade :
M:L Sample weight
1:08 10 gm.
Dark shade :
M:L Sample weight
1:6 10 gm.
Table 7: Salt & soda calculation
Shade% G. salt
(g/l)
Soda
(g/l)
Salt-20%
(g/l)
Salt solid Soda-10%
(0.0001-0.5)% 30 8 22ml 4.5gm 12.0ml
Shade% G. salt
(g/l)
Soda
(g/l)
Salt-20%
(g/l)
Salt solid Soda-10%
(0.51-1)% 40 10 16ml 3.2gm 8.0ml
(1.1-2)% 60 15 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml
Shade% G. salt
(g/l)
Soda
(g/l)
Salt-20%
(g/l)
Salt solid Soda-10% Caustic
(g/l)
Caustic-
10%
(g/l)
(2.1-3)% 70 18 21ml 4.2gm 10.8ml *** ***
(3.1-5)% 80 20 24ml 4.8gm 12.0ml *** ***
(6-8)% 80 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.0 g/l 0.6 g/l
8%> 90 5 24ml 4.8gm 3.0ml 1.2 g/l 0.72 g/l

53
5.3.4 PROCEDURE FOR100 % COTTON FABRIC:
1. Calculate the recipe.
2. Weight the fabric.
3. Take the beaker keep the fabric into the beaker.
4. Then the dyes, chemicals & required amount of water take in to the beaker by the
digital pipettting.
5. Then weight the salt by the electric balance and add in to the beaker.
6. Then the beaker set in to the lab dyeing machine for dyeing.
7. Start the program for dyeing the whole dyeing time 60 min at 60 °C temperature.
(The dyeing time and temperature depends on which classes of dyes are used for
dyeing)
8. After 30 min add the then add the soda ash. By pipetting.
9. Again run the program next 30 minat the same tem.
10. Finished the dyeing time then the sample taken from the beaker first
Hot wash & then cold wash.
11. Then acid wash as for neutralization.
12. Then soaping required soap solution 10 min at 90° C temperature.
13. After the fabric again cold.
14. Then dry the lab dip and compare with the standard.

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5.4 DYEING SECTION:
5.4.1 FLOW CHART FOR DYEING
Batching
Select machine no.
Fabric loading
Select production program
Pretreatment
Select recipe for dyeing
Recipe confirmed by PO
Dyeing
Post treatment
Unload
5.4.2 PRODUCTION PARAMETERS:
Ph
 During h2o2 bleaching ph 9.2-12
 During reactive dyeing ph 10.5-12.5
 During disperse dyeing ph 4.5-6.0
Temperature:
 For cotton scouring: 98ºc
 For cotton cold wash: 30º-40ºc
 For cotton hot wash: 70º-80ºc
 For cotton acid wash: 60ºc
 for cotton dyeing: 80-85ºc (for hot brand) 65ºc (for cold brand)

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 polyester dying: 130ºc
Time:
 For scouring: 40-60 minutes
 For disperses dyeing 50-60 minutes.
 For cotton dyeing 120-130minutes.
M: L ratio:
 For pretreatment M:L ratio maintained 1:7
 For reactive dyeing M:L ratio maintained 1:6
5.4.3 PROCESS FOR DYEING COTTON:
DEMINERALIZATION PROCEDURE OR LOADING HOT
1. Wetting agent + Sequestering agent
2. Temperature rises up to 50°C & run the process for 30 min.
3. Then drain the liquor.
SCOURING-BLEACHING PROCESS
Scouring-Bleaching is carried out in the same both and at the same time
simultaneously.
Scouring-Bleaching Chemicals Used in a batch:
Agent Brand Name G/L
Detergent SandocleanPCLN 1
Sequestering agent LanapexHTS 0.4
Stabilizer LanapexHPST 0.4
Anticreasing agent DepsolubleACA 2
Alkali Soda ash 5
Bleaching agent H2O2 3
Acid Acetic Acid 0.6
Procedure of Scouring-Bleaching
 At first required amount of water is taken in the m/c.
 Then the fabric is loaded .
 Then Sequestering, Stabilizer is added at 500C. For s/j anticreasing is added.
Runtime 6 minutes.

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 Then Temperature rise to 600C.
 Then Caustic soda is added by dosing 6 minutes. Runtime 5 minutes.
 Then rise temp. to 70c .Then H2O2 dosing by 8 minutes.
 Then Keep 98 min
 Drain.
 Acid is transferred at 600C. Runtime 10 minute then Drain
Process curve:
Figure 3: Process curve of single stage cotton scouring & bleaching process.
ENZYME WASH
1. Acetic acid inject at 35°C.
2. Temperature raises up to 62°C & keeping PH =4.5–5.
3. Enzyme (Bio touch C-35) is given in linear dosing process.
4. Run at 55°C for 60 min.
5. After that temperature raises up to 80°C & run for 10 min.
6. Drain the liquor.
7. Cold wash is given for (5/-10/).
WASHING PROCEDURE
 After B.D the fabric is washed with cold water.
 Then it is neutralized by acetic acid.
 After doing this fabric is soap washed at 80°C for 10– 20 min.

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SOFTENER APPLICATION
 After washing softener is applied at 40°C for 20 min in acidic medium.
 Softener dosing is done for 8 min.
 After it the fabric is washed with cold water.
5.4.4 MAIN PARTS OF THE MACHINES
 Main tank
 Preparation tank
 Pump
 Filter
 Heat Exchanger
 Additional tank
 Lid
FILTER
The filter eliminates the loose fibres in the dye bath,consequently it reduces the loose
fibre loads on the fabric.Changing and cleaning the filters is sometimes forgotten, with
the result that the dyeing machine's nozzle pressure decreases, with the effect that
running is disturbed and tangles can occur.
Automatic self-cleaning filter system:
 No cleaning of filter.
 No pressure variation in the nozzles due to lint buildup due to automatic regulation
system.
 No lint on fabric due to 100 % filtration of the circulation liquor.
ADDITIONAL TANK
Addition tank is used for:
 Color dosing
 Salt dosing
 Chemical dosing
 Auxiliaries injection
 Salt dissolving
WAYS OF LIQUOR FLOW FROM ADDITIONAL TANK TWO WAYS-
1. Injection
2. Dosing
 Linear dosing
 Progressive dosing
 Decreasive dosing

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5.4.5 DESCRIPTION OF THE PRODUCTION PROCESS:
Description of theproduction process is different for different products. I describe here
one light shade, one dark shade and another white color.
DYEING RECIPE DARK COLOR
Shade name: curry
Fabric type: S/J 165
Recipe for Pre-treatment:
Sandoclean PCLF 1 g/l (Detergent)
Lanpex-HTS 0.4 g/l (Sequestering agent)
Depsolube-ACA 1.5 g/l (Anticrease agent)
Lanapex-HPST 0.4 g/l (Stabilizer)
Antimussol-HTS 0.1 g/l (Antifoaming agent)
Caustic soda 2.25g/l (Alkali)
Hydrogen-per-oxide 3 g/l (Bleaching agent)
Recipe for soaping:
Dekol SN 0.2 g/l (Soaping agent)
T 100 0.06 g/l (Peroxide killer)
Recipe for neutralization:
Acetic acid 1 g/l (Acid)
Recipe for Bio-polish:
Acetic acid 0.3 g/l (Acid)
Genecor BF 1600L 1 g/l (Enzyme)
Recipe for dyeing:
Ladiquest 1097 1.5 g/l (Wetting agent)
Depsolube-ACA 0.5 g/l (Anticrease agent)
Drimagen-E2R 0.5 g/l (Leveling agent)
Antimussol-HTS 0.1 g/l (Antifoaming agent)
Rem. Yellow RR 3 g/l (Dyestuff)
Kem. Yellow 4G 0.78 g/l (Dyestuff)
Rem. Blue RR 0.052 g/l (Dyestuff)
Gluber salt 60 g/l (Salt)
Soda-Ash 20g/l (Alkali)
Recipe for After-Treatment:
Dekol SN 0.75g/l (Soaping agent)
Recipe for neutralization:
Acetic acid 100% (Acid)
Recipe for softener:
Acetic acid 0.25 g/l (Acid)
Sapamine CWS 1.5 g/l (Cationic softener)
Table 8: Dark shade recipe

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DYEING SEQUENCE FOR DARK SHADE:
Pre-treatment at 98ºC, 40′
Soaping at 90 ºC, 10′
Neutralization at 60 ºC, 10′, pH 5.5-5.8
Peroxide killer at 50 ºC, 10′
Bio polishing at 55 ºC, 45′, pH 4.5-5
Dyeing at 65 ºC (at first run time 10′, color dosing 20′, then run time 10′, salt dosing
10′ and run time 30′, then soda dosing 30′and run time 1 hr serially done)
Neutralization at 50 ºC, 10′
Soaping at 90-98 ºC, 10′
Softener 30′

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DE= detergent; STA= stabiliger; AF= antifoaming agent; SE=Sequeristing agent
Figure 4: Curve for soaping, biopolishing & Dyeing

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CURVE FOR NEUTRALIZATION SOAPING AND FIXING APPLICATION:
Figure 5: Curve for neutralizing & Fixing.
DYEING SEQUENCE FOR LIGHT SHADE:
Pre-treatment at 98ºC, 40′
Soaping at 90 ºC, 10′
Neutralization at 60 ºC, 10′, pH 5.5-5.8
Peroxide killer at 50 ºC, 10′
Bio polish at 55 ºC, 45′, pH 4.5-5

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Dyeing at 65 ºC (at first run time 10′, color dosing 20′, then run time 10′, salt dosing 10′
and run time 30′, then soda dosing 30′and run time 1 hr serially done)
Neutralization at 50 ºC, 10′
Soaping at 90-98 ºC, 10′
Softener 30′
5.4.6 COMMON DYEING FAULTS WITH THEIR REMEDIES
UNEVEN DYEING
Causes:
 Uneven pretreatment (uneven scouring & bleaching).
 Improper color dosing.
 Using dyes of high fixation property.
 Uneven heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Lack of control on dyeing Machine
Remedies:
 By ensuring even pretreatment.
 By ensuring even heat-setting in case of synthetic fibers.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Proper controlling of dyeing Machine
BATCH TO BATCH SHADE VARIATION
Causes:
 Fluctuation of Temperature.
 Improper dosing time of dyes & chemicals.
 Batch to batch weight variation of dyes and chemicals.

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 Dyes lot variation.
 Improper reel speed, pump speed, liquor ratio.
 Improper pretreatment.
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Maintain the same liquor ratio.
 Follow the standard pretreatment procedure.
 Identical dyeing procedure should be followed for the same depth of the Shade. .
 The pH, hardness and sodium carbonate content of supply water should check
daily.
PATCHY DYEING EFFECT
 Entanglement of fabric.
 Faulty injection of alkali.
 Improper addition of color.
 Due to hardness of water.
 Due to improper salt addition.
 Dye migration during intermediate dyeing.
 Uneven heat in the machine, etc
Remedies:
 By ensuring proper pretreatment.
 Proper dosing of dyes and chemicals.
 Heat should be same throughout the dye liquor.
 Proper salt addition.
Roll to Roll variation or Meter to Meter variation:
Causes:

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 Poor migration property of dyes.
 Improper dyes solubility.
 Hardness of water.
 Faulty Machine speed, etc
Remedies:
 Use standard dyes and chemicals.
 Proper Machine speed.
 Use of soft water
CREASE MARK:
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 If pump pressure & reel speed is not equal
 Due to high speed Machine running
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Reducing the Machine load
 Higher liquor ratio
DYE SPOT:
Causes:
 Improper Dissolving of dye particle in bath.
 Improper Dissolving of caustic soda particle in bath.
Remedies:
 By proper dissolving of dyes & chemicals

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 By passing the dissolved dyestuff through a fine stainless steel mesh strainer, so
that the large un-dissolved particles are removed
WRINKLE MARK
Causes:
 Poor opening of the fabric rope
 Shock cooling of synthetic material
 High temperature entanglement of the fabric
Remedies:
 Maintaining proper reel sped & pump speed.
 Lower rate rising and cooling the temperature
 Higher liquor ratio.
5.4.7 AVERAGE PRODUCTION: Monthly average production in dyeing floor is
240 ton.
5.4.8REMARKS:
Yarn dyeing machine is not available in INTERSTOFF APPERALS LTD. So yarn dyeing
is not possible. So that yarn are dyed from other industries.
5.5 FINISHING SECTION:
5.5.1 FINISHING:
After dyeing knit fabric is required to finish. During eyeing all knit fabric are dyed in
tubular form. According to buyer’s requirement knit fabric are finished in open form or
tubular form.
5.5.2 Objective of finishing:
 Improving the appearance — Luster, whiteness, etc.
 Improving the feel, which depends on the handle of the material and its
softness,suppleness, fullness, etc.
 Special properties required for particular uses — water — proofing, flame
proofing, etc.
 Covering of the faults in the original cloth.
 Increasing the weight of the cloth.

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5.5.3 FLOW CHART OF FINISHING SECTION
Finishing Section
Open fabric Tube fabric
Slitting machine Dewatering machine
Stentering Drying Machine
Compacting Tube compacting
Machine machine
Final Final
Inspection Inspection
Fabric physical & chemical test
Finish fabric store
Finish fabric delivery.
5.5.4 DESCRIPTION OF FINISHING PROCESS:
Finishing section is divided into two section, they are:
 Openline
 Tube line
The machines that are used in open line that are given bellow:
 Slitting m/c
 De-watering m/c
 Stenter
 Dryer

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 Open Compactor
The machines that are used in tube line that are given bellow:
 De-watering m/c
 Dryer
 Tube Compactor
Tubular fabric:
De-watering m/c:
Figure 6: De-watering m/c
After finishing the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready
for de-watering . This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by
squeezing . This is the main function of the de-watering machine . But here also control
the some important factor of the fabric quality
The basic function of the de-watering machine :
 To remove the water from the fabric .
 To control the width of the fabric .
 To control the length of the fabric .
 To control the spirality of the fabric .
 To control the grain line of the fabric .
 To control the over feeding system

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Dryer:
Figure 7: Dryer m/c.
After de-watering then the fabric is passed through the dryer. The main function of the
dryer to dry the fabric & full fill the other fabric properties according the to Buyer’s
requirement. This dryer has four chambers. The speed of the dryer depends on the
temperature of the machine & the GSM of the fabric. The vibration speed of the
machine for heavy jersey / GSM high is 750 m/min & Single jersey / normal GSM is 500
m/min . The temperature of the machine depends on the machine speed. Higher the
temperature of the machine; higher the the speed.
The basic function of the dryer are as follows :
 To dry the fabric .
 To control the over feed system . (Shrinkage control)
 To control the vibration . (To increase the GSM)
The temperature of different chambers according to the shade of the fabric are :
Shade Chamber 1 Chamber2 Chamber 3 Chamber 4
Light 120° C 115° C 110° C 105° C
Medium 120° C 130° C 140° C 150° C
Deep 170° C 160° C 150° C 140°C
Table 9: Tem. Of different chamber in dryer m/c.

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Tube Compactor:
Figure 8: Tube-Compactor m/c
The mechanism of the compactor machine classified in the four sections. In the first
section, entry the fabric in to the machine by the tube form. The second section is
Edge driver. The function of edge driver to increase & decrease the GSM & dia of the
fabric . Here also passed the steam to soft the fabric & slightly shade match. The third
section of the machine & it’s also called the compaction station. Here to control the
GSM & callendaring the fabric. There is also a blade to smooth the fabric surface. In
the section four the out put section of the machine. Here the fabric keep on to the up &
down moveable table. The up & down movement of the table control with the photo
detector (Sensor) . In case of deep shade the steam & roller pressure will be high & for
light shade steaming & roller pressure will be low. Suppose, We input fabric GSM 220.
Then we control the out put GSM maximum 225 & minimum 212.
The main function of the compactor machine:
 To control the GSM .(Increase & decrease)
 To control the dia .
 To control the shrinkage . (Increase & decrease)
 To smooth the fabric surface .
 To calendar the fabric

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Open width fabric
Slitting m/c:
Figure 9: Slitting machine
After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready
for slitting.
The basic function of the de-watering machine:
 To slitting the fabrics.
De watering m/c:
After finished the dyeing process from the dyeing machine then the fabrics are ready for
de-watering . This is the process to remove the water from the fabric completely by
squeezing . This is the main function of the de-watering machine . But here also control
the some important factor of the fabric quality
The basic function of the de-watering machine :
 To remove the water from the fabric.
 To control the width of the fabric.
 To control the length of the fabric.
 To control the grain line of the fabric .

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Stentering m/c:
Figure 10: Stentering machine
The main mechanism of the stentering machine ,under feed roller to feed the fabric
,over feed roller to increase and decrease GSM , spending roller to remove the crease
mark ,mahalo to adjust the bowing angle ,Fabric wheel to stretch the fabric and contact
with chain ,
The main function of the Stentering machine:
 To control the width of the fabric .
 To control the length of the fabric .
 To dry the fabric.
 To control the over feeding system
 To control the shrinkage of the fabric

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Open Compactor:
Figure 11: Open compactor machine
The mechanism of the compactor machine classified in the four sections . The section
wise mechanism in the first section to entry the fabric in to the machine by the open
form . In the second section Edge driver . The function of edge driver to increase &
decrease the GSM & dia of the fabric . Here also passed the steam to soft the fabric &
slightly shade match . This is the third section of the machine it’s also called the
compaction station . Here to control the GSM & challendering the fabric . Here also a
blade to smooth the fabric surface . In the section four the out put section of the
machine . Here the fabric keep on to the up & down moveable table . The up & down
movement of the table control with the photo detector (Sensor) . In case of deep shade
the steam & roller pressure high & light shade steaming & roller pressure low. Suppose,
we input fabric GSM 220. Then we control the output GSM maximum 225 & minimum
212.
The main function of the compactor machine:
 To control the dia .
 To control the shrinkage. (Increase & decrease)
 To smooth the fabric surface.
 To challender the fabric.
5.5.6 AVERAGE PRODUCTION: Monthly average production in finishing floor is 240
Ton.

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5.5.7 REMARKS:
The sueding and heat setting is not done in interstoff apparels ltd. So sueding and heat
setting is done from other industries through sub contract.

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CHAPTER 06
QUALITY ASSURANCE
6.1 QUALITY ASSURANCE SYSTEM:
Interstoff apparels ltd is more concern about quality. The quality assurance depernent
assign to maintain consistently uniform quality on the material in process and various
stages of manufacturing.
6.1.1 OBJECTS OF QUALITY CONTROL:
 Research.
 Selection of raw materials.
 Process control.
 Process development.
 Product testing.
 Specification test
6.2 QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
Quality assurance procedure may be divided into two major parts:
 Online quality control
 Offline quality control
Online Q.C:
Online quality control comprises with the raw material quality control and the process
control.
Raw material control:
As the quality product depends upon the raw material quality so we must ensure the
best quality of raw material with an economical consideration.
 The fabric must be without faults, with proper absorbency, whiteness as per
requirement of the subsequent process.
 The chemicals should be with a known concentration with a higher degree of
purity.
 All the m/c’s engaged should be higher a precisions.

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Process control:
The method chosen for process must be provided with the necessary accurate
parameters. Here the specific gravity, water level, pH, time, temperature at each stage is
checked.
Lab-dip preparation:
In any dye house, a laboratory equipped with required machines and equipment is
essential. It assists in product prediction, minimization of time consumption and waste
reduction. It also in producing the product of required quality.
Prior to the bulk production, laboratory plays a vital role in shade matching and
detecting the characteristics of the dyes and chemicals to be used in the larger scale of
production.
In INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD, for preparing lab-dip, lab-dip machines are used.
There are two lab-dip machines in its laboratory.
At first, recipe % of standard sample is measured by CCM (Computer color matching)
system. Then by taking that recipe lab in-charge produce lab trail and match with
standard according to buyer requirements. After approving to this sample, this sample is
sending for bulk production with the recipe.
Offline quality control:
The final product should pass against the norms given by the buyer. The following tests
are generally done-
OFFLINE TEST DONE IN THIS FACTORY
Physical test
 fabric wt
 diamentionalstability to washing
 fabri width
Color fastness test
 wash
 water
 rubbing
 perspiration
 phenolic yellowing
 hydrolysis of reactive dye
 oxidative bleach damage
 print durability
 appearance after wash

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Chemical and other test:
 pH value
 fiber analysis
 stength of hydrogen peroxide
 strength of acetic acid
 strength of HCl
 strength of custic soda
 strength of soda ash
 strength of potassium per menganate
 analysis of soda ash
 pH & hardness of glubar salt
 pH & hardness of water
 pH & hardness of common salt comparison of stabilizer
 comparison of soaping agent
 comparison of wetting agent
 comparison of anticreasing agent
List of Equipment’s:
 Yarn tester
 Hanna pH meter
 Electric balance
 Sample dryer
 Sunflower washing m/c Wascator
 precision tumble dryer Washtec-p
 Data color international –spectrophotometer
 Crock meter
 Light box Inspection m/c # 1
 Light box Inspection m/c # 2
 Scissors Electronic balance
 GSM cutter
 Indication sticker
 Measuring tape
QUALITY ASSURANCE PROCEDURE:
 All rolls are kept in front of the inspection m/c time to time and are inspected over
the inspection m/c visually in a pre-set speed against light. For any major or
minor faults like thick-thin, barre mark, IALl out, contamination, fly, holes, oil
lines, needle line, slubs etc are recorded in inspection report to classify the
fabric based on the four point system.

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 Collar& cuff are inspected visually under the light box, any major or minor faulty
collar/cuff like having wrong ply, hole, needle line, slubs, wrong design, first
round problem etc properly counted and recorded.
6.3 QUALITY STANDARD:
The four point system is followed to inspect the body & rib fabric. The defects found
and points given against are recorded in the inspection sheet. Following table shows
the four point grading system followed by inspection at Interstoff apparels ltd.
Four point grading system
Size of defects point
3 inches or less 1 point
Over 3 inch but not over 6 inch 2 point
Over 6 inch but not over 9 inch 3 point
Over 9 inch 4 point
Following table shows common body and rib faults and response by inspection section
atInterstoff apparels ltd.
Rejection criteria for body & ribs
No. Faults Response
1. Needle mark Major needle line is rejected
2. Stripe Major needle line is rejected
3. Barre mark Reject
4. Contamination & fly Approved for color but for white shed 1
point is assigned
5. Slubs 1 point
6. Thick thin place Reject
7. Birds eye 1 point
8. Pin holes 1 point
9. Wrong design Reject
10. Mixed yarn Discuss with manager
11. Sinker mark Major sinker mark is rejected.

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12. Missing yarn Use 4 point
13. Holes Do
14. Oil line/stain Do
15. Chemical Do
16. Dirt stain Do
17. Crease line Do
18 Uneven tension Discuss with manager
Table 10: Reject criteria for body & Rib
Following table shows common collar and cuff fault and response taken by inspection
section-
Rejection criteria for collar & cuff
No.
Faults
Response
1. Wrong ply Reject
2. Hole Reject
3. Slubs Reject
4. Needle kine Reject
5. Wrong design Reject
6. Wrong tripping Reject
7. Fly & contamination Acceptable for color but not for white
8. First round problem Reject
9. Uneven tension Discuss with manager
10. Missing yarn Reject
11. Crease line Reject
12. Rust line Reject
13. Oil stripe Reject

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14. Thick-thin Reject
15. Chemical Reject
Table 11: Reject criteria for body & Rib
Following theory is used to calculation of Acceptance Quality Level:
Points Counted × 36" × 100
Roll Length × Fabric Width
6.3.1 QUALITY CONTROL IN GREY FABRIC INSPECTION:
Some Points Are Needed To Maintain For High Quality Fabric:
 Brought good quality yarn.
 Machines are oiled and greased accordingly.
 G.S.M, Stitch length, Tensions are controlled accurately.
 Machines are cleaned every shift and servicing is done after a month.
 Grey Fabrics are checked by 4 point grading system.
6.3.2 QUALITY CONTROL IN DYEING AND FINISHING:
Interstoff apparels Ltd assures the quality of the products of dyeing section in
thefollowing three steps:
 In laboratory
 In Dyeing section &
 In Finishing Section
Procedures are described below:
In laboratory:
 Swatch card from buyer according to their requirement
 Recipe prediction for sample dyeing
 Sample dyeing until matching with swatch card Fastness & other tests of the
fabric or yarn are done here.
In dyeing section:
 According to the buyer’s sample, sample dyeing is done in sample dyeing machine
in dyeing shed & again matched with the approved sample.
 If result is OK, then bulk production.

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 During dyeing, samples are taken until accurate shade matching.
 The interval may be 30-40 minutes.
 After dyeing sample is collected after softening matching is done.
 Last of all, sample is collected after fixation & matched.
 Then allowed the fabrics to be finished.
In finishing section:
 By using a series of finishing machines correct width, softness & appearance are
maintained according to requirements.
 Then sampling is done for several times to test GSM, Shrinkage & fastness
properties.
 Finally fabric is inspected & prepared for delivery
6.4 PROCEDURE OF THE DIFFERENT TESTS:
Different types of tests of the dyed fabric are done in labrotaries of Interstoff Apparels ltd
.Different types of method (Standard or buyer’s recommended) are followed for different
types of tests. The process of the different tests of fabrics & lab. Dip dyeing is described
in the following section:
COLOR FASTNESS TEST PROCEDURE
Color Fastness:
The “color fastness” of a colored textile is defined as its resistance to these changes
when subjected to particulates of conditions. It follows that color fastness must be
specified in terms of these changes and expressed in terms of the magnitude.
COLOR FASTNESS TO WASH TEST
Required materials:
 Sample size 40 × 100 mm
 Multifiber at 40 × 100 mm
 ECE detergent (WOB) – 4g/L
 Sodium Perborate (Na2BO3.H2O2.3H2O2-1g/L) - 1g/L
 Distilled water
 Normal cold water

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 Steel balls
Required instrument:
 Rota Wash
 Scissor
 Stitch machine
Procedure:
 Cut sample & multifibre at 100 × 400 mm and then stitch.
 50 ml ECE detergent (WOB) & 50 ml Sodium per borate is taken with the
sample.
For Marks & Spencer, the solution is taken by the following:
Formula:
(Sample fabric + Multifibre weight) × 50 ml
 The sample is kept in 600C for 30 minutes in Rota Wash Machine
 Rinse the sample twice with cold water.
 Dry at 60°C by hanging or by Flat iron pressing but temperature should not be
more than 150°C.
Report:
Dry the specimen and the change of shade & degree of staining is measured by Grey
Scale & Staining Scale.
COLOR FASTNESS TO WATER TEST
Test specimen:
•Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
•Multifibre fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
•Cut the multifibre into two piece
•Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:
• Water is taken as required
Method:
 The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
 Water is taken in the peri dish as required.
 Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
 The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
 A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.
 Excess solution is poured off.

82
 Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator
at (37±2) 0C for 4 hours.
 The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)
Report:
Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale &Staining Scale.
COLOR FASTNESS TO PERSPIRATION TEST
Test specimen:
 Sample fabric – 50 mm × 50 mm
 Multifibre fabric – 50 mm × 100 mm
 Cut the multifibre into two piece
 Sandwich the test specimen between two piece of multifibre
Testing Solution:
1. Alkaline Solution:
Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00
g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L
Disodium hydrogen orthophosphate (Na2HPO4.2H2O) – 2.5 g/L PH
– 8 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
2. Acidic Solution:
Histidine monohydro chloride monohydrate (C6H10ClN3O2.H2O)– 5.00
g/L NaCl – 5.00 g/L
Sodium di-hydrogen orthophosphate (NaH2PO4.2H2O) – 2.2 g/L PH
– 5.5 (Adjust by 0.1 N NaOH)
Method:
 The composite specimen is put in a peri dish (2 specimen of a sample).
 Solution (Alkaline & Acidic) is taken in the two peri dish. Here, M:L is taken 1:20.
 Bubble is made out from the specimen by tapping.
 The specimen is put for 30 minutes.
 A glass plate is placed on the composite specimen for 15 minutes at room
temperature.
 Excess solution is poured off.
 Peri dish with composite specimen & glass plate is placed into the incubator at
(37±2) 0C for 4 hours.
 The specimen is dried (Temp ≤ 600C)
Report:
Change of shade & degree of staining is measured by the Grey Scale & Staining Scale.

83
COLOR THE FASTNESS TO RUBBING (DRY & WET) TEST
Sample:
- Dyed fabric – 15 cm × 5 cm
- White Test Cloth - 5 cm × 5 cm
Procedure:
- White test cloth is put on to the grating and stag by steel wire.
- The sample is run twenty times manually for ten seconds. and the
rubbing fastness of the sample cloth and degree of staining is
accessed.
- For rubbing fastness (Wet), the rubbing cloth is placed in the water and
socked and squeeze. The wet rubbing cloth is placed on to the grating
and stag with stainless steel wire and run ten times manually then
assess the staining on to the rubbing cloth and the rubbing fastness of
the sample cloth is accessed.
Report:
- Change of shade of the sample is measured with grey scale and degree of staining
of the white test cloth is measured by Staining Scale.
There are also some tests are done in the lab. And the process is described below-
MEASURING THE DIMENSIONAL STABILITY (SHRINKAGE & SPIRALITY):
Sample:
• Two piece of 50 cm × 50 cm fabric is taken for test.
Procedure:
a. Conditioning: Put the sample in table for 4 hrs for conditioning beforestarting test.
b. Cut the sample 50x50 cm & benchmark should be 35x35 cm. Stitch the sample (3
sides) by over lock sewing machine.
c. Put sample in washing machine and run according to buyer’s choice.
Drying: All Buyers’ requirement is tumble Dry except ECHOSCOURING is flat dry.

84
50 x 50 cm
╬ ° ╬
35 x 35 cm
° °
╬ ° ╬
Template
SHRINKAGE TEST CALCULATION:
Before wash – After wash
Shrinkage % =
X
100
Before wash
SPIRALITY TEST CALCULATION:
S = (S1+S2) / 2
Spirality = (S × 100)/A.
Suppose,
S1 = The right side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
S2 = The left side distance of the specimen from the stitch line after wash.
A = Length obtain after wash.
PH OF A DYED FABRIC
Test specimen:
• 2 gm of dyed fabric is taken.
• The fabric is cut into pieces of (0.5 cm × 0.5 cm)
Procedure:
1. The sample is taken into conical flax.
2. 100 ml distilled water (slightly warm) is taken into the conical flax.
3. The conical flax is put on the Magnetic Stirrer for 30 minutes.

85
Report:
The PH of the conical flax is measured by Digital PH meter.
LIGHT BOX:
There are two light box in the labrotaries of IAL project
• Light box for Europian buyer
• Light box for American buyer
Different light used for shade matching of different buyers is as follows
Buyers Primary Secondary Tertiary
M&S MS TL 84(P15) MS D56---10 MS A10
Sains Buery(FT) TL 84—10 D56---10
BHS TL 84---10 F 11 10
Kappahl D65—10 TL 84---10 A10
Garaye D65—10 TL 84---10
Columbia D65—10 CWF
Chaps A10 D56---10
Ralph Lauren A10 D56---10
Abercombi&Ritch A10 D56---10
Table 12: Shade match in light box
6.5 REMARKS:The quality of the product in INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. Are
checked very carefully.

86
CHAPTER 07
MAINTENANCE
7.1 MAINTENANCE:
Machine, buildings and other facilities are subjected to deterioration due to their use and
exposure to environmental condition. Process of deterioration, if unchecked, culminates
in rendering these service facilities unserviceable and brings them to a standstill.
Industry, therefore has no choice but to attend them from time to time to repair and
recondition them so as to elongate their life to the extent it is economically and
physically possible to do so.
It is in this in the context that maintenance assumes importance as an
engineering function. It is made responsible for provision of a condition of these
machines, buildings and service that will permit uninterrupted implementation of plans
requiring their use.
7.1.1 OBJECTIVES OF MAINTENANCE:
 To keep the factory plants, equipments, machine tools in an optimum working
condition.
 To ensure specified accuracy to product and time schedule of delivery to
customer.
 To keep the downtime of machines to the minimum thus to have control over the
production program.
 To keep the production cycle within the stipulated range.
 To modify the machine tools to meet the need for production.
7.2 MAINTENANCE OF MACHINERY:
Machine maintenance Flow chart

87
Preventive maintenance:
Preventive maintenance is a predetermined routine activity to ensure on time
inspections or checking of facilities to uncover conditions that may lead to production
break downs or harmful depreciation.
Break down maintenance:
In this case, repairs are made after the equipment is out of order and it cannot perform
its normal functions.
Schedule maintenance:
Maintenance of different machines is made by expert engineer of maintenance
department. Normally in case of dyeing machine maintenance after 30 days complete
checking of different important parts are done.
In INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. follows the above three type’s maintenance.
7.3 MANPOWER SET-UP FOR MAINTENANCE:
ƒ A Shift 6 AM - 2 PM
ƒ B Shift 2 PM - 10 PM
ƒ General Shift 9AM - 6 PM
7.4 MAINTENANCE PROCEDURE:
Normally preventive maintenance is done here. During maintenance procedure
following points should be checked :
Maintenance of knitting machine:
SL.
NO
Items need to be checked & Serviced
1. Check and tightening all motor terminals.
2. Check and clean pressure sensor and tightening terminals
3. Clean the ventilation fans of panel board and circular fan on top of m/c
4. Check and clean the interfacing and data cables.

88
MAINTENANCE: MECHANICAL
Machine: Dyeing m/c
Serial no. Item need to be checked & serviced
1 Crease the winch bearing
2 Complete cleaning of machine
3 Cleaning of drain valves, replace scales if
Required
4 Check air supply filters, regulators, and auto
drain seals
5 Clean filters element and blow out
6 Greasing of unloading roller bearings
7 Checking of oil level and bolts of unloading
roller gearbox
8 Checking of unloading roller coupling and
Packing
9 Checking and cleaning of main vessel level
Indicator
10 Pump bearing and refill if required
11 Check the function of heat and cool
modulating valves
12 Check all belts and belt tension
13 Check all door seals
Table 13: Mechanical Maintenance of dyeing m/c
MAINTENANCE: ELECTRICAL
Machine: Dyeing m/c
Serial no. Items needed to be checked and serviced
1 Check & clean fluff and dirt at al motor fan cover
2 Check all motors terminals
3 Check main panels (by using compressed air)
4 Check panel cooling fan & clean it filter
5 Clean main pump inverter and its cooling fan

89
7
Check current setting of all circuit breaker &motor over
loads
8 Visual checking of all power & control cables
9 Check all pressure switches
10 Check DC drive of neel motors
11 Check calibration of main vessel
12 Check calibration of all additional tank
13 Check all pneumatic solenoids
14 Check calibration of heating / cooling
15 Check setting of tangle sensor
16 Check setting & operation of lid safety
Switches
17 Check all emergency switches
18 Check all indicating lamps
19 Check all on / off switches
20 Check all signal isolators
21 Check key pad & display of controller
22 Check proximity switches
Table 14: Electrical Maintenance of dyeing m/c
7.5 MAINTENANCE TOOLS & EQUIPMENTS AND THEIR FUNCTIONS:
SL NO TOOL NAME FUNCTION
1. Combination tools / spanner Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
2. Socket ratchet set Tightening of nuts & bolts.
3. Slide range Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
4. Monkey pliers Tightening & loosening of nuts & bolts.
5. Pipe threat cutting tools To cut the threat in pipe.
6. Bearing puller To assist the opening of bearing from
shaft.
7. Pipe range Tightening & loosening of pipe joint.
8. Pipe cutting tools For pipe cutting

90
9. Hole punch Punching the hole.
10. Divider For circle marking on metal & wood.
11. Easy opener To open the broken head bolt.
12. External threat die For external threat cutting.
13. Heavy scissor Cutting of gasket & steel
14. Oil can Oiling of moving parts.
15. Drill machine and drill bit. For drilling.
16 Grease gun For greasing of moving parts of m/c.
17. Grinding m/c For grinding & cutting of mild steel.
18. Welding m/c For welding & cutting.
19. Spirit leveler For perfect leveling.
20. File For smoothing the surface.
21. Hammer For scaling & right angling
22. Circlip tools Circlip opening & closing.
23. Hacksaw blade For metal cutting.
24. Handsaw (wood) For wood cutting
25. Grinding stone For smooth finishing.
Table 15: Maintenance tool equipment & function
7.6 REMARKS:
To make serviceable of machines, buildings and other service facilities maintenance is
very essential. It reduces maintenance cost as for as possible thereby leading to a
reduction in factory overheads and prolongs the useful life of the factory plant &
machinery. When I was trainee of INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD., then I saw that the
maintenance staff and overheads of maintenance department is very skilled and
efficient.

91
CHAPTER 08
UTILITY SERVICES
8.1 UTILITY FACILITIES AVAILABLE:
For smooth functioning of any production unit, uninterrupted and required utility services
are indispensable. Success of any industry largely depends on this factor. Any
irregularity or lack in the required utility services immediately results in unexpected halt
of the production process. An Industry needs various utilities depending on its
manufacturing process.
In INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD., the major utilities are available-
 Power (Electricity)
 Water
 Natural gas
 Compressed air
 Steam
8.2 SOURCES OF UTILITIES:
The main utility which is used by INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD. is natural gas. From
natural gas generator produce electricity. From natural gas and electricity in association
with mechanical and electrical apparatus, INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD produces
other utilities like water, steam, compressed air etc.
8.3 CAPACITY AND OTHER TECHNICAL DETAILS:
8.3.1 Power (Electricity):
Generator house is the main power producing plant of INTERSTOFF APPARELS LTD.
There are three generators in generator house. Two of them being gas generator and
another is diesel generator. The two gas generator are of 900W and 750W respectively
and Diesel generator is of 400 KVA.
SPECIFICATION OF GENERATOR:
Name:-Generator
Manufacturer Name:-waukesha
Model:-VHP5900GSID
Origin: - USA

Industrial attachment of interstoff Apparels Ltd.

Industrial attachment of interstoff Apparels Ltd.

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