Creating your own seed bank is a skill all gardeners should know. Saving seed can protect your precious crops from year to year, yield larger produce, and provide greater diversity when seed companies reduce inventories and selection. Saving seed is critical in our world of GMO's and sterile seed, find out how to save seed in the attached presentation.

1. Creating a Seed Bank
Full PDF – Seed Bank – How to Series

2. How to Create Your Own Seed Bank
What is in a seed? A viable seed is a tiny living plant surrounded by a small but essential quantity of nutrients.

3. What makes one seed bank different from another?
Intent Every gardener has a seed bank, whether they recognize it by that name or not.
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Have any leftover seed from last year?
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Did you buy any packets at the end of the season during a closeout sale?
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Are you saving heirloom seeds from any produce you have grown?
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Even weed seeds in the soil, lying in wait for who ever knows what constitutes a seed bank. Every seed bank has a distinct purpose and it is managed accordingly.

4. Why keep a seed bank?
Why not just buy fresh seeds every spring
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Changes in the seed industry
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Consolidation of companies
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Discontinue what is regarded as unprofitable
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You cannot count on your favorite variety being available in the future
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If you have heirloom varieties, you can save your seed for years to come
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Hybrid seeds will not produce true to form, they must be purchased each year.
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Saving seed that produced well under your climate conditions will insure healthier plants in the future years for your growing conditions

5. Goal for Storage
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Not to encourage germination
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Store in a cool dry location (how do I know it is a good place to store them?)
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Use the 100 rule NO BATHROOMS – TOO MOIST
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Temp is 70 degrees
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Humidity is 30%
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70 +30=100
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Seeds in Ziploc® bags are okay, but glass jars are better
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If you have heirloom varieties, you can save your seed for years to come
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Hybrid seeds will not produce true to form, they must be purchased each year.
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Saving seed that produced well under your climate conditions will insure healthier plants in the future years for your growing conditions

6. •
Seeds Must Be Dry
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Silica Gel – little packets labeled “do not eat”
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Save from electronics, vitamins, and other things that you purchase
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Can absorbs 20% of it’s own weight in water
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Absorbs ethylene gas which is a waste product of the seeds respiration
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Protect Seeds From Pets
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Mice – especially in the fall
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Moths and Weevils
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Susceptible during drying
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Freeze (10 days)
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Can store in the freezer

7. For Freezer Storage
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Moisture content must be low
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Dry enough to snap instead of bend
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Commercial seed is dried to about 8%
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Drying seed to 1-3% can extend the life of the seed 4-16 times
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100 degrees F for six hours, you will bring seed down to about 8% moisture.
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Place in your glass jar with the silica gel
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Purchase silica gel which changes color when it absorbs moisture
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http://www.theruststore.com/Silica-Gel-Packets-C97.aspx
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Can regenerate silica gel in the oven – No Microwaves
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Recommended clasp lid jars in place of canning style jars
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Canning jars will allow some moisture in eventually, even if you draw a vacuum on the jar with your vacuum sealer
Come here my pretties

8. Hardening of the Seed
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Larger Seeds – Squash
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Can be damaged by extreme desiccation
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Hard Seed – Beans and Peas
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May require longer germination period
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Usual garden varieties will germinate within 2-3 weeks with higher humidity
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If you have hard seed, you can expose it to moisture for several weeks before planting to improve its germination.
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Test for Germination
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You can test seeds for germination rates by placing ten seeds on a damp paper towel. Keep them damp and warm. The number of seeds that sprout is your germination rate: if 5 seeds sprout, that is a germination rate of 50 percent. A germination rate of 50 percent is about the minimum you want - below that and you might not want to plant that seed at all.

9. Labeling
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Label bags and jars used for storage
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Use scientific names whenever possible
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Place labels inside the jars, outside labels peel off
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Include manufacturer that you originally purchased seed from
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Manufacturers very with their seed collection procedures
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If you saved seed from you own produce, also include details of the growing season
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If you grow the same varieties over several years, rotate your stock keeping it current

10. Decision Time
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Why are you saving seeds?
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Good Hobby
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Profit
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Just in case
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Insurance against crop failure
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Sustainable thing to do
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Partial (or total) societal collapse You can only save and store open-pollinated, non-hybridized, non-GMO seeds

11. GMO or Hybridized Seeds
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Frequently have sterile first generation off spring, sometimes referred to as F1. If you save seeds from your produce, the second planting with saved seed will not look like the first year produce.
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If they are sterile, you will receive nothing for your effort. The companies want you to buy more of their seeds every year.

12. The animals know the difference

13. Reason for saving seeds will dictate your seed stock
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Playing it safe for the first year
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Collect self pollinating seeds - tomatoes, beans, lettuce, peas, chicory, and endive. No muss no fuss
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More adventuresome
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Wind and insect pollinated - corn, cucumber, radish, spinach, and squashes
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Biennials
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onions, carrots, cabbages, beets, Swiss chard, turnips, celery, leeks

14. Special Cases - Tropics
Recalcitrant seeds (sometimes known as unorthodox seeds) are seeds that do not survive drying and freezing. Recalcitrant seeds cannot be dried for storage and must be planted immediately. Tropical plants such as mangoes, coconuts, and tea are recalcitrant. Intermediate seeds can take some drying for short-term storage, but they are not viable options for a personal seed bank. Intermediate seeds can take drying for a short storage period, but are not really suited for seed bank storage. Examples of intermediate seeds include coffee, papaya, and others.

15. Questions

16. www.greatlakespermaculture.com