Shoes Finishing

2.  Understanding Leather, Articles Characteristics and PU, Textiles
materials handling.
 Understanding various types of finishing materials used for
Finishing.
 Understanding Different Finishes And Finishing Methods.
 Color Theory and Color Matching Concepts.
 Finishing Machines, RPM and Tools Handling.
 Practical application training in different finishes on different
styles.
 Problems and Solutions in Finishing.
 Examinations and Certification.
 Q & A and Discussions.
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3. Animal Types: Cow, Goat, Buff and Sheep Leathers
in various thickness and finishes.
Identification of leather Finishes:
 Leather type on grain structure
 Leather types based on tannage
 Leather types as per top coat
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4.  Aniline - Crust, will have very good water absorption character.
 Semi aniline - Water will absorb with certain time, Light Finish.
 Pigmented - Very mild absorption, covered finish.
 Burnish - Have absorption and easy to get polished with darkening
effect.
 Oily Leather - Fibers filled with oil and waxes, darkening effect.
 Wax Leather - Fibers filled with waxes, crunch effect and easy
polishable.
 Patent Leather - Thick PU film on surface, No water absorption.
 Foil Leather - Artificial foil paper applied on surface.
 Suede - Flesh side article with velvet nap and fibers.
 Nubuck - Grain side buffed off to get Velvet effect and writing effect.
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5.  Non Leather Materials might be Textiles based or
Synthetic PU based with different types of articles similar
to leather, which can be easily identified by cross section
cutting and fibers analysation.
 Synthetic leathers cannot be normally finished like
leathers, only can make tow tone sprays and gloss with
shine with top creams and shining waxes.
 Textile are natural fibers which should be kept very clean
in production lines which is easy for soiling and cannot be
repaired with cleaners like leather and any product used
on textiles should be tested before sample making itself.
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6.  Cleaners - Mild, Medium and Strong - To remove markings, washed
finishes - CL500, DP441, CL581, CL591
 Softener - Toe Lasting and Conditioning makes the leather soft -
Suviapiel PX 5200
 Fillers Waxes - Fills the pores, grain surface uniform sealing effect -
144/15, 144/24
 Base Creams - Brings Richness, Color and Beauty from base - Milano
Series, Satina Series.
 Shadows - Two tone and shadow effect on Toe, counter stitches etc. -
Shadow Series
 Top Creams - Gives the shoe its luster and determines its final
appearance, color, Nature Series
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7.  Top Sprays - Liquid shoe creams for smoothness with long lasting
finish, polish shine and fixing - Marbido Series
 Shining Waxes - Applied finally for shiny, natural gloss and
transparent look - CW 161 series
 Anti Fungus - Fungicide And Odor masking for leathers - Fungodor PX
5231
 Suede and Nubuck Sprays - Enhance colors, adding silky hand feel,
Velvet effect and smoothness - Eco velvet, Cordoban.
 Burnish Waxes - Gives Darkening and polish effect - DW 137, DW 136,
DW 135
 Crayons - Repair Damages during manufacturing process, only in
areas where no flex- Crayons series of colors.
 Two Tone Waxes - Colored wax bar to get antique effect/burnish
effect in any leather - Brasil Stick Series .
 Oil Waxes - To Give casual finish with greasy touch - Grassowax Series
 Oil Sprays - Gives Fashionable look and Greasy feels - Casual BA series
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8.  Oil Creams - Gives Different effects on greasy leathers - Grassoto GR
265
 Solvent Base Coats - To dye the leathers, PU and textiles - Sevilla
Series
 Water Base Coats - To dye the leathers in water base - Carioca Series
 Dry, Wet Suede Fixing sprays - Wet rub and dry rub fixing - Fijador
 Hardener - Gives hardness applied on flesh side of leather - Dupriel
 Renovators Repair Sprays - To Repair damages, scratches, stains,
discoloring - Revival Series
 Abrasive Waxes - High abrasive effect to smooth grain - AW 100
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9. TEMPE PAULE INDOPELLI GLOBAL
 Burnish Finish - Normally done on burnish leather, brush the upper
with burnish wax and use natural creams and natural shining wax get
brushed for elegant rich look.
 Cream Finish - Normally done on Aniline, semianiline, pigmented
leathers with filler wax color, base cream color, shadow sprays, top
creams or top sprays, shining waxes color/natural.
 Oil Finish - Done on oily leathers with oily creams, oil sprays and oily
waxes.
 Spray Finish - Suedes and Nubucks with oily, silky and velvet sprays as
per different touch and hand feel required.
 Dipping Finish - Leather components or uppers, full shoes dipped in
solvent based special liquids and normal dried for 6 to 12 hours to get
different multiple tones at different areas.

10.  Padding Finish - Components are applied with liquid finishes by hand
padding and after drying, brushed for high rich look.
 Wash Effect - Washing the leather upper with solvent based cleaners
to get washed look after cream application and final natural creams
and natural shining waxes.
 Patchy Finish - In base after filler wax, contrast dyes are used to make
patches at different areas of shoes and after applied base creams, top
creams and shining waxes
 Metallic Finish - Metallic creams are applied and finally shine spray
done.
 Brush Off Finish - Remove the top coat with abrasive wax and using
shine wax to make gloss effect.
 Powder Spray Finish - In spray snow effect like spray is done to have a
snow effect.
 Two Tone Finish - Brazil sticks used in different areas for two tones as
well mild color creams are used in same colors for two tone effect.
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11. Selecting a Dressing System for Leather
Before selecting a system one must know -
 The type of finish on leather
 The final requirement of leather in terms of gloss and handle etc.
 The range of commercially available products
 Wax Based dressing requires brushing, which gives a natural shine to
the shoe.
 PU based dressings normally does not require brushing. It gives an
artificial shine.
 Both wax based and PU based dressings can be applied by hand or
by spray.
 Polishes and Creams: Such products are non-film forming. Normally
wax polishes are used and are widely available either neutral or
pigmented to match the color. Surface waxes can impart a measure
of water repellency to footwear although they cannot be regarded
as water proofing agents.
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12.  The three primary Colors: A primary color is a pure unmixed,
uncompounded color made from a single pigment. There are three
primary colors also called basic colors because they form the basis of
all the colors whether neutral or spectral.
 The Three Primary Colors are: Red, Yellow and Blue because red
contains only red, blue only blue and so on.
 Secondary Colors: When equal parts of two primary colors are
combined, secondary colors are formed e.g. green comes from blue
and yellow, orange from red and yellow and violet from red and
blue. Secondary colors lie midway between the primary colors on
the color wheel: they are less strong than primaries.
 Tertiary Color: It is the result of mixing the three primary colors in
proportions capable of infinite variations (often a certain quantity of
black and white is added to the three primary color mix.
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13. TEMPE PAULE INDOPELLI GLOBAL

14.  Spray Booth for spraying operations.
 Brushing Machine with provision for cotton and woolen brushing
 Blunt knife - To remove wax and thermoplastic adhesive hotmelt.
 Crepe Rubber - To Remove lates, PU, rubber adhesives.
 Suede Brush - Soft brush to remove dust and loose foreign
substances in suede and nubuck leather and done in one direction
for nap.
 Emery Paper - To remove adhesives in suede and nubuck if the
adhesive is not deep penetrated.
 Sponge and cotton cloth.
 Brush for applying paints.
 PU foam.
 Brushing Machine.
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15.  RPM control has to be done as per the machine type and required
finish effect.
 Filler wax brushing - 600 to 650 RPM.
 After base Cream Cotton brushing - 550 to 600 RPM.
 Shining wax - 500 to 550 RPM.
 Cotton brush - Medium speed for Nappa and soft leathers.
 High Speed - Burnish leather brush off leather and corrected grain
leather.
 Woolen brush - Mild speed to make the gloss and shine as a film on
the shoe.
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16.  The damage may be due to the following reasons:
› Over roughing along the featheredge;
› Scuffing of the finish during handling;
› Damage to the finish by solvents and heat;
› Increase in shade variation of Upper leather
 Table given below shows the main features of
repairs for leather uppers:
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17. TEMPE PAULE INDOPELLI GLOBAL
Description Form Type Method of
Application
Special Features
Repair
crayons
Sticks,
Discs
Wax based in very
soft, medium & hard
forms,
colored.
Soft crayons can be
rubbed on. Hard
crayons melted on
with warm knife.
Gap filling will not shrink, used
for heavy damage. Not suitable
for flexible areas. Dry
instantly on cooling.
Repair
pastes
Thick paste
Colored resin
emulsion (Matched if
needed.
Brush or knife.
Resins spray may not stick to
repaired areas. Can be matched.
Not gap filling for light damage.
Dry in 5-20
mins. Not suitable for flexible
areas.
Uniformers,
renovators
Solution or
emulsion
Pigmented, Solvent
or waterborne.
Spray or brush
Pigment
paints
Paste Water based Hand brush For slight damage on shoe
feather line.

18.  Restorative waxes and creams generally contain higher level of
pigments or dyes with binder and can help the damaged surface of
leather to regain a measure of its original appearance. If only the
finish of the leather has been removed then good repairs are
possible, but where the damage is deep into the grain the wax may
not be enough to camouflage the more fibrous nature of the
surface.
 In the same manner for textiles having polymer coatings on it, color
matching of the damaged area to the original surface, will be the
only beneficial solution.
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19.  A range of fabric and leather dyes is available for “touching up” the
localized color losses or more commonly re-coloring the whole
upper. With fabrics and absorbent leather (e.g. suede and nubuck)
there is little penetration required but where the leather has a
“finish” this normally has to be removed with solvents before the
dye can take.
 You do this by applying the renovator, sparingly, prior to polishing.
Allow it to set into the leather for at least 10 minutes (ideally more).
However, be careful not to apply too much as it can over-soak your
leather, which will also have its own undesirable consequences.
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20. THANK
YOU