1. www.GCImagazine.com Global Report ■ Antiaging/Cosmeceuticals 47
“The anti-inflammatory ingredients,
because they decrease deep acne, will allow
for better aging.”
Dark circles also contribute to a tired and
worn out appearance. As a person ages, the
thin skin around the eyes becomes thinner,
and the fat that plumps the skin disappears.
“Skin thins and you can see the circulatory
system,” said Lyn Ross, president and CEO,
Institut’ DERMed. Additionally, over time, the
circulatory system under the eyes begins to
leak, called hemoglobin degradation, causing
blue-red pigmentation. Products must target
the thinning skin, visible circulation and
hemoglobin degradation under the eye to
create a lighter effect. Natural high potency-
based carriers, in addition to skin thickeners
such as vitamin K, can reduce the appearance
of dark circles with long term use. Hylexin, by
Bremann Research Labs, reduces hemoglobin
degradation by-products by optimizing
enzymatic activity, causing the red-blue
pigmentation of dark circles to fade while
strengthening the capillary matrix to help stop
the leaking, protecting against further damage.
Today’s products include enzymes to
stimulate or boost the effects of active
ingredients, while peptides act as a bond,
fighting the breakdown of collagen and
stimulating its growth. But these formulations
now include other ingredients for value-added
skin care.
GLOBAL reportBY TRACY SHERWOOD
Antiaging:
Beyond Wrinkles
To increase the value of antiaging skin care products
with consumers, the focus should be on correcting
multiple skin problems, prevention and maintenance.
S
ociety as a whole does not appreciate age
reminders, particularly in the mirror.
Women had nearly 10,500,000 cosmetic
procedures performed in 2005, accounting for
91.4% of the total number of procedures, to
correct signs of aging. Consumers want to look
younger and they are willing to pay for it.
Not Just Wrinkles
Wrinkles, while being primarily associated with
aging, are just one of several signs of aging that
products attempt to reverse or reduce. Skin
clarity, darkening pigment and loss of firmness
all contribute to the aging process. In addition,
age spots, acne and uneven skin tone contribute
to the skin’s overall appearance.
Combating acne is a problem for adults as
well as teenagers. Antiaging products deliver
a variety of ingredients to limit or prevent
breakouts while addressing traditional concerns,
such as collagen breakdown. MD Skincare uses
chelators, an organic complex, to sequester
heavy metals, and free radicals to prevent
damage and collagen breakdown. Heavy
metals can lead to skin conditions such as acne,
rosacea, irritation and inflammation.
“Additionally, acne scars can look worse as
the skin ages and loses collagen. The depth
and the diameter of the scars increase.” said
Dennis Gross, MD, creator of MD Skincare.
antiaging/cosmeceuticals
• This value-added antiaging category
will be worth $4.1 billion by 2009,
driven by the increase of technology
and proprietary blends.
• Antiaging products must be formulated
to address skin tone, acne and age spots,
as well as wrinkles.
• The market is expanding as baby boom-
ers age and younger consumers attempt
to ward of signs of aging.
EXECUTIVE SUMMARY
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2. 48 Global Report ■ Antiaging/Cosmeceuticals GCI January 2007
Sublime Slim Night, by L’Oréal,
works during the sleep cycle.
Through the massage applica-
tion method, microcirculation
is enhanced, reducing the
appearance of cellulite and
rejuvenating skin’s tone and
texture.
Hand Revitalizing Treatment
by CBI Laboratories includes
skin brightening magnesium
ascorbyk phosphate to pamper
dry skin and cuticles while
strengthening the nail bed with
emoliency.
Kinerase’s Clear Skin facial
care products are formulated to
reduce blemishes and improve
the appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles. The Clear Skin Serum
is designed to deliver concen-
trated ingredients to specific
areas of concern.
Merlot Skin Care’s Night Cream
uses grape seed to curb signs
of aging—such as fine lines,
wrinkles and age spots. The
antioxidants and vitamin E within
the grape seed, according to
the company, creates a calming
effect on the skin.
MERLOTSKINCARE
KINERASE
While facial aging is a primary target of
antiaging products, it is not the only area
of concern. Consumers are looking for
products that work to prevent or decrease
these apparent signs of aging in other areas
of the body. For example, hands show signs
of aging due to their thin skin with little
fat underneath. Aging reduces this fat even
further to showcase the veins and bones,
while exposure to the sun contributes
age spots and dryness. To combat this,
hand creams are including sun block,
skin brighteners and moisture barriers to
avoid over drying. For example, Bath &
Body Works’ Glove Me Tender uses skin
brighteners to improve the appearance of
sun spots, shea butter to create a protective
moisture barrier and antioxidants to
scavenge damaging free radicals. An SPF 15
also protects against sun damage that may
contribute to premature aging of the skin.
Brighter Skin
Often, the biggest factor of aging is the
overall tone of the skin. “As we approach
the age of 30, skin becomes duller,” said
Nathalie Chevreaux, PhD, R&D, director
of Women’s Health at Basic Research, an
R&D and product development lab. “And
interestingly enough, this change in skin
tone and color can occur in all ethnic
groups.”
According to Richard Wells, PhD, director
of scientific affairs, Bremenn Research
Labs, changing skin color has a lot to do
with light waves, color frequencies and how
light is reflected.“As we age, proteins in
the skin’s epidermis become cross-linked
and rigid, thus losing transparency and the
ability to reflect warmer pink tones. Unlike
simple age spot removers, new-generation
facial brighteners are designed to be used
over the entire face. They make you look
younger by increasing skin’s brightness scale
and amplifying full-spectrum reflectivity,
luminescence and clarity.”
In addition to fine lines,
products must add value
by addressing additional
antiaging concerns.
these ingredients now include natural extracts
and essential oils, such as kojic acid. All
skin brighteners are targeting sun damage,
so sunscreen, found in some moisturizers
and cosmetics, is still the traditional way to
prevent this sign of aging.
Consumers want to look and feel
beautiful inside and out. As a result, dietary
supplements working in concert with
topical methods and products with active
ingredients producing changes to the skin
are becoming popular, complementing
the increased focus on lifestyle as part of
the aging process. A recent Datamonitor
report predicted the overall European
cosmeceuticals market to grow $4.4 billion
in 2009, which includes all cosmetic
products containing at least one bio-active
ingredient for the skin. The same report
stated that 63.7% of women over the
age of 50 are prepared to spend more on
cosmeceuticals.
Follow the Value
According to the latest market report from
the Freedonia Group, the demand is likely
to trigger an 8.7% annual increase in the
market for antiaging products. A series
of new and improved products that claim
to offer both health maintenance and
GLOBAL report antiaging/cosmeceuticals
L’ORÉAL
Kinerase’s Clear Skin facial
While facial brightening targets overall
skin tone, not just age spots, formulators have
had to adjust to the ban of hydroquinone,
finding different ingredients to achieve
similar results. Following the naturals trend,
CBILABORATORIES,INC.
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3. www.GCImagazine.com Global Report ■ Antiaging/Cosmeceuticals 49
Sircuit Skin’s Brilliance serum
is formulated with 4% L-arbutin
and 2% lactic acid. The product
is fortified with a neem leaf
extract for brightening benefits
and lemon peel extract to
reduce hyperpigmentation for
even skin tone.
Doctor D. Schwab Super Repair
CoQ10 Moist from CA Botana
uses a concentrated formula-
tion to repair and reduce the
appearance of wrinkles while
increasing oxygen to help
skin renew.
Bio Cure Eye Cream by Institut’
DERMed is formulated with alpha
hydroxy acids, arbutin, L-retinol
and vitamin K to strengthen thin
eye area skin, lighten dark circles
and nourish cells to smooth and
firm the skin.
Skin MD Natural utilizes natural
skin care ingredients for dry skin
treatment that keeps moisture-
robbing irritants away from
the skin while the proprietary
humectants hydrate the skin.
Skin MD Natural utilizes natural
SKINMDNATURAL
Bio Cure Eye Cream by Institut’
DERMed is formulated with alpha
INSTITUT’DERMED
SIRCUITSKIN
appearance-enhancing benefits to the baby
boomer generation are feeding this demand.
This group’s attitudes toward aging are
changing rapidly, while directly affecting
consumer purchasing habits.
“These individuals, who belong to one
of the most affluent generations, are
willing and able to pay for products
that provide antiaging benefits,” stated
the Freedonia Group report. Looking
specifically at cosmetic products, the
market for antiaging ingredients and
chemicals is set to grow exponentially.
The report highlights that this value-
added category will be worth $4.1 billion
by 2009, partially due to the increase of
technology-driven and proprietary blends
that form an integral part of many products’
antiaging claims. Despite conventional
wisdom, which keeps many major advertisers
focused on younger consumers, the boomer
generation is not set in its ways when it comes
to product choices, according to studies by
MarketResearch.com, which show boomers
are more receptive to advertising than their
Gen X and Gen Y counterparts, who tend to
reject marketing claims out of hand.
While marketing claims do not necessarily
resonate with these younger consumers,
antiaging as a preventive measure does.
Younger consumers are attempting to avoid
aging skin concerns through use of antiaging
products.“We have so many younger clients
using the formulations to ward off signs of
aging,” said Ross.
For these consumers, prevention and
maintenance are key components to their
attitudes while purchasing antiaging products.
This need to prevent instead of cure focuses
on products with age-defying elements. For
example, Skingenic utilizes antioxidants, such
as Idebenone, green tea and lychee fruit, to
provide moisture and environmental protection
while delivering nutrients that improve the
overall complexion. These elements combine
to prevent the damage that contributes to the
ills commonly attributed to aging skin, thus
appealing to the younger consumer.
Warding off the signs of
aging includes using value-
added products that focus
on more than just the fine
lines and wrinkles, addressing
concerns that contribute to the
overall appearance of the skin.
Targeting baby boomers means
addressing their skin concerns,
while addressing long-term
maintenance for younger
consumers looking to ward off
these signs of aging.
With an increasing focus on
the benefits of lifestyle changes for overall
well-being, aging baby boomers want to see
their healthy lifestyle reflected in their skin.
As a result, they look for skin care products
that delay or reverse the signs of aging skin
by providing value added benefits beyond
wrinkle reduction. To stay on top of this
growing trend, antiaging products must
focus on preventing or curing a variety of
skin ills, not just the wrinkles and fine lines.
■ GCI
CABOTANAINTERNATIONAL
TRACY SHERWOOD is the assistant
editor of GCI magazine.
SKINGENIC
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