7. What can you make from a
bale?
Cotton fibers
Bale
123rf.com
200 Jeans
8. What can you make from a
bale?
Cotton fibers
gabanigroup.com
Bale
123rf.com
200 Jeans 700 Shirts
9. Cotton fibers
$31 million
What can you make from a
bale?
culpeppercleaners.com
3 parts cotton: 1 part linen
en.wikipedia.orghuffingtonpost.com
Bale
29. How garments are made?
Bale
Yarn
Cloth
Garments
forbes.com
Spinning
culpeppercleaners.comzhenhuatex.com123rf.com
30. Fiber quality affects yarn quality
Long, strong, and fine fibers:
Full, strong, even yarns
studyblue.comtextilefabric.com
31. Fiber quality affects yarn quality
Long, strong, and fine fibers:
Full, strong, even yarns
Less hairiness in threads
denimhunters.com
Hairs
32. Fiber quality affects yarn quality
Long, strong, and fine fibers:
Full, strong, even yarns
Less hairiness in threads
Maximum thread count
Soft, light, and lustrous
1worldsarongs.blogspot.com
Low thread count
High thread count
propercloth.com
33. Fibers – threads- product quality
Long, strong, and fine fibers:
Full, strong, even yarns
Less hairiness in threads
Maximum thread count
Soft, light, and lustrous
Expensive!
Craig Taylor
220 thread count
$395-$525
Thomas Pink
170 thread count
$350
us.thomaspink.com craigtaylor.com
35. Fiber length
Upper half mean length (inch)
Below 0.99 Short
0.99-1.10 Medium
1.11-1.26 Long
Above 1.26 Extra Long
uster.com cottoninc.com
Beard
Sample
Sensor
36. Fiber strength
Fiber strength (grams/tex)
20 and below Very Weak
21-25 Weak
26-29 Base
30-32 Strong
uster.com cottoninc.com
37. Fiber fineness
Fiber fineness (micronaire)
Premium 3.7-4.2
Base Range 3.5-3.6, 4.3-4.9
Discount Range <3.5, >4.9
cottoninc.com swicofil.com
38. Increase in yield from Bt
1975 1980 1985 1990 1995 2000 2005 2010
Bt
Non Bt
0
900
720
540
360
180
3,080
1,080
Fiberyield(lbs/acre)
Hake, 2013
39. New varieties: fiber length
cotton.org
DP 1311
DP 1359
DP 1321
Upper Half Mean Length (inch)
Below 0.99 Short
0.99-1.10 Medium
1.11-1.26 Long
Above 1.26 Extra Long
Variety Length (inch)
DP 1359 1.14
DP 1321 1.14
DP 1311 1.12
40. New varieties: fiber strength
cotton.org
DP 1311
DP 1359
DP 1321
Variety
Strength
(grams/tex)
DP 1359 31.5
DP 1321 31.2
DP 1311 29.1
Fiber Strength (grams/tex)
<20 Very Weak
21-25 Weak
26-29 Base
30-32 Strong
>33 Very Strong
43. Challenges
Negative association
between yield and fiber
quality
Narrow genetic
diversity in cultivated
cotton
Genetically complex
trait
Yield Quality
Yield Quality
44. Clement et al., 2012
1,000 2,000 3,000
lbs/acre
1.04
1.12
1.20
1.28
1.36
1.44
Length(inch)
Negative association
Yield and fiber length
US
1999-2009
Australia
2004-2009
45. Clement et al., 2012
1,000 2,000 3,000
lbs/acre
260
280
300
320
360
340
380
400
Strength(KNmKg-1)
Negative association
Yield and fiber strength
US
1999-2009
Australia
2004-2009
46. Causes of reduced genetic diversity
1st: “A” x “D” 2nd : Domestication 3rd : Distribution
eeob.iastate.edu
“D”
“AD” “A”
47. Complex trait
Many genes control the trait
Each gene makes small contribution to the trait
Genes interact among themselves
Also influenced by the environment
53. Number of complex trait genes
Trait Chee et al., 2005 Sun et al., 2012
Fiber length 28 10
Fiber strength 22 10
Fiber fineness 9 10
Number of genes
54. Opportunities
Negative association
between yield and fiber
quality
Positive association
between different fiber
quality traits
Yield Quality
Yield Quality
Fiber length Fiber strength
55. Opportunities
Narrow genetic diversity
of cultivated cotton
50 different species with
tremendous genetic
diversity
crops.organbg.gov.au 128.192.141.98/CottonFiber/pages/iiPopulations/overview.aspx
57. Opportunities
Genetically complex
trait
Novel tools and
techniques
Genetic blueprint
available
Useful genes introduced
from related species into
upland cotton
Pima Hawaiian
flickr.com
58. Opportunities
Genetically complex
trait
Novel tools and
techniques
genetic blueprint
available
Useful genes introduced
from other species into
upland cotton
Mutant lines of upland
cotton
59. Mutations create new genes
Parent Mutant Mutant trait
1.2 1.4 Extra long
Upper Half Mean Length (inch)
Below 0.99 Short
0.99-1.10 Medium
1.11-1.26 Long
Above 1.26 Extra Long
Fiber length
Patel et al, 2011
60. Mutations create new genes
Parent Mutant Mutant trait
31.6 42.5 Extra strong
Fiber strength
Fiber Strength (grams/tex)
<20 Very Weak
21-25 Weak
26-29 Base
30-32 Strong
>33 Very Strong
Patel et al, 2011
61. Mutations create new genes
Parent Mutant Mutant trait
5.3 4.0 Premium
Fiber fineness
Fiber Fineness/Maturity (Mic)
Premium 3.7-4.2
Base 3.5-3.6,
4.3-4.9
Discount <3.5, >4.9
Patel et al, 2011
62. Better fibers – quality yarns – comfy cotton clothes
Market demands better fiber quality in upland
cotton
Simultaneous improvement in both the yields and
fiber quality is desirable, but challenging
Novel tools and techniques offer new avenues of
improvement of fiber quality traits
Summary