1:00 PM Innovations in Knitwear: Yarn Spinning David Sasso, Vice President of Sales, Buhler Yarns – Jefferson, GA, USA Learn the differences between open-end, ring-spun, compact, and air-jet spinning from a knitting industry veteran of 25 years. How do these spinning techniques impact price, torquing, pilling,and strength? What are some new technologies in the yarn market? Learn to ask the right questions of your suppliers to get the knit fabric to meet your expectations.
The act or process of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarn.”
* - Some manufacturers do 2 or 3 process drawing to achieve maximum blending, fiber parallel, and silver mass uniformity (CVm). Also, many companies have equipment to do a intimate blend. By this, the fibers are blended prior to carding.
Compact spinning requires more maintenance and energythan conventional ring spun mainly because the fibers are compacted by using suction through the perforated drum. If the holes get clogged, then the yarn is not compacted. This would show up as a form of barre in the fabric. There are detection devices called clearers which can look for an increase of yarn hairiness and/or yarn diameter.
There is another type spinning technology in the ring spun category which is called Siro. Explain the advantages of a siro.
So many companiesstop short of
Spinning Systems<br />Learning the differences<br />
What is spinning?<br /> The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.<br />Dictionary.com<br />
Most common types of spinning for apparel fabrics<br /><ul><li>Ring Spinning
Air jet</li></li></ul><li>Processing Table<br />Conventional<br /> Fiber CP Syn<br />Carding x x<br />Drawing x x*<br />Lap wind x <br />Combing x <br />Drawing x x<br />Roving x x<br />Spinning x x<br />Winding x x<br />Process 8 6<br />Modern<br /> Fiber CP Syn<br />Carding x x<br />Drawing x x*<br />Lap wind x<br />Combing x<br />Drawing x x<br />Spinning x x<br />Process 6 4<br />
Roving<br />Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s<br />Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong<br />Ring Spinning<br />
Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+<br />Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong<br />Roving<br />air<br />Perforated Drum<br />Compact Spinning<br />
What questions should I ask?<br />There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning process which influence the outcome of fabric and garments.<br />
Fiber Related<br />Where is the source of fiber?<br />Do you have a relationship with the fiber producer and spinner?<br />What are the parameters in which the spinner purchases the fiber?<br />Does the fiber perform to expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?<br />How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?<br />
Machine Related<br />Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?<br />What are the machine’s unique features?<br />Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?<br />
Supply Chain Related<br />Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?<br />Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?<br />Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use?<br />There may be bonds which need to be broken for this to happen..<br />