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Spinning Systems


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Comparisons of Spinning Systems

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Spinning Systems

  1. 1. Spinning Systems<br />Learning the differences<br />
  2. 2. What is spinning?<br /> The act or processing of converting staple or short lengths of fiber into continuous yarns.<br /><br />
  3. 3. Most common types of spinning for apparel fabrics<br /><ul><li>Ring Spinning
  4. 4. Compact
  5. 5. Open End
  6. 6. Air jet</li></li></ul><li>Processing Table<br />Conventional<br /> Fiber CP Syn<br />Carding x x<br />Drawing x x*<br />Lap wind x <br />Combing x <br />Drawing x x<br />Roving x x<br />Spinning x x<br />Winding x x<br />Process 8 6<br />Modern<br /> Fiber CP Syn<br />Carding x x<br />Drawing x x*<br />Lap wind x<br />Combing x<br />Drawing x x<br />Spinning x x<br />Process 6 4<br />
  7. 7. Roving<br />Yarn count ranges: 6’s to 250’s<br />Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong<br />Ring Spinning<br />
  8. 8. Yarn count range: 6’s to 250+<br />Fibers: (1) Long (2) Fine (3) Strong<br />Roving<br />air<br />Perforated Drum<br />Compact Spinning<br />
  9. 9. Yarn Structure<br />Compact<br />Ring Spun - Siro<br />Ring Spun<br />
  10. 10. Ringspun yarn<br />SwissCotton Royal<br />Conventional Ring Spun Versus Siro<br />
  11. 11. Why Royal Spun?<br /><ul><li>Very good pilling values and durability (Pilling (Martindale) improved by 1.0 to 1.5 grades)
  12. 12. Less surface hairiness, clear mesh structure
  13. 13. Excellent evenness of knit fabrics
  14. 14. Less fiber accumulations knitted into the fabric
  15. 15. Luster
  16. 16. Great alternative to plied yarns
  17. 17. Less energy
  18. 18. Softer than plied yarns
  19. 19. More economical than plied yarns</li></li></ul><li>Modern systems are typical “Sliver to Yarn” system<br />Less Processing !!!<br />Refer to Slide 4<br />
  20. 20. Open End - Schlafhorst<br />
  21. 21. Open End - Rieter<br />
  22. 22. Typical yarn count range: 6’s to 30’s<br />Fibers: (1) Fine (2) Strong <br />(length is not as important as ring spinning)<br />Rotor<br />Yarn Package<br />Feed Roll<br />Sliver<br />Condenser<br />Transport <br />Air Channel<br />V<br />df<br />, M<br />f<br />Sliver<br />Combing Roll<br />Feed Plate<br />Trash<br />Open End Rotor Spinning<br />
  23. 23. Typical yarn count range: 20’s to 60’s<br />Fibers: (1) Long (2) Strong <br />(length is not as important as ring spinning)<br />Main Draft<br />Back Roller<br />b<br />Middle Roller<br />Apron Pressure<br />H<br />Front Roller<br />k<br />N1<br />N2<br />Spinning Tension<br />Wrapping <br />Fibers<br />Parallel Fibers<br />Core of <br />Murata Air Jet Spinning<br />
  24. 24. Open End Spinning<br />
  25. 25. Murata Vortex<br />
  26. 26. Rieter Air Jet<br />Still very new in the market…<br />
  27. 27. Roving<br />Spinning Efficiency and Endsdown:<br />Key Fiber Properties by the order of importance:<br />Main Draft<br />Rotor<br />Yarn Package<br />Back Roller<br />b<br />Middle Roller<br />Apron Pressure<br />H<br />Front Roller<br />Feed Roll<br />k<br />N1<br />Sliver<br />Condenser<br />Transport <br />Air Channel<br />V<br />df<br />N2<br />Spinning Tension<br />, M<br />f<br />Fibers<br />Wrapping <br />Sliver<br />Short Fiber length<br />Trash content <br />Roving twist level<br />Trash content<br />Short Fiber content <br />Sliver Uniformity<br />Trash content<br />Short Fiber Content<br />Sliver Uniformity<br />Combing Roll<br />Parallel Fibers<br />Core of <br />Feed Plate<br />Trash<br />Fiber Quality Impact<br />
  28. 28. Energy Comparison<br />
  29. 29. Different Yarn Counts = Different Quality Levels<br />Do all yarns within the same spinning system require the same type and quality of fibers?<br />
  30. 30. FQI Upland Cotton ELS Cotton <br />Min 3.0 10.0<br />Max 10.0 15.0<br />FL = HVI Fiber Length (inch)<br />FS = HVI Fiber Strength (g/tex)<br />Mic = Micronaire<br />Fiber Quality Index (FQI)<br />
  31. 31. Different Yarn Counts Require Different Fiber Indexes<br />
  32. 32. Fiber Quality Index vs. Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Rotor Spun Carded Yarns<br />
  33. 33. Fiber Quality Index VS Yarn Count-Ring Spun & Compact Combed Yarn<br />
  34. 34. Different Cotton can<br />Result in substantial difference in Quality and Cost<br />Is Cotton just Cotton or a Different Cotton can Make a World of Difference?<br />
  35. 35. Ranking By Category<br />
  36. 36. What questions should I ask?<br />There are literally hundreds of variables in the spinning process which influence the outcome of fabric and garments.<br />
  37. 37. Fiber Related<br />Where is the source of fiber?<br />Do you have a relationship with the fiber producer and spinner?<br />What are the parameters in which the spinner purchases the fiber?<br />Does the fiber perform to expectations in relation to yarn count and fabric properties?<br />How is my garment impacted by fiber cost?<br />
  38. 38. Machine Related<br />Do you have a relationship with the machine manufacturer?<br />What are the machine’s unique features?<br />Does the manufacturer of the machines offer excellent service, adequate training, and able to respond quickly to parts and repair needs?<br />
  39. 39. Supply Chain Related<br />Is the spinner willing to partner with you and your the supply chain to improve the quality and performance of fabrics?<br />Same goes with the machinery manufacturer?<br />Will your fabric supplier be open to the idea of you stating the spinner you want to use?<br />There may be bonds which need to be broken for this to happen..<br />
  40. 40. Credits<br />Dr. Yehia El-Mogahzy,Auburn University<br /><br />Rob Beal, Oerlikon<br /><br />Mark Lingerfelt, Muratec<br /><br />Hans Rothen, Rieter<br /><br />