how the weaving is done for satin, sateen and dobby fabric

1. SATIN WEAVE
• Satin is a cloth that typically has a
glossy surface and a dull back.
• A satin is a warp-dominated
weaving technique that forms a
minimum number of interlacing in a
fabric.

2. • A satin-woven fabric tends to have a
high lustre due to the large number of
"floats" on the fabric. Floats are
"missed" interlacing, where, the warp
yarn lays on top of the weft yarn, or
vice versa. The floats tend to make
the fabric look glossier as well as give
it a smoother hand in most cases.
• This type of weave requires a
minimum set of 5 warps and 5 wefts.

3. SATEEN
WEAVE
Weft-face Satin is called SATEEN.

4. The basic characteristic of satin/sateen weaves are :
• They are either warp or weft faced weaves.
• Have no prominent weave structures.
• Only one binding point in each end or pick
• No continuous twill lines
• Have poor seam strength due to thread mobility
• More thread density is possible in warp and weft
• More mass per unit area is possible
• Have less binding points and more float lengths
• Use of move numbers (intervals of selection) is necessary to construct
these weaves.
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SATIN
SATEEN

5. In the construction of satin/sateen weaves, the stitching points of warp
or weft for a given repeat size is done by the use of move numbers or
stitch or float numbers. The move numbers are selected according to
the repeat size of the weave.
• In choosing move numbers for the construction of satin/sateen
weaves, the following rules are to be adopted:
• The move number should not be equal to the repeat of the weave
• It should not be one less than the repeat size
• It should not be a factor of the repeat size, and
• It should not be a multiple of the factor .

6. • QUALITIES - Fabrics made with a sateen weave
are very smooth, flat and lustrous on one side.
The reverse side is dull and non-shiny.
• FABRICS WOVEN IN SATEEN WEAVE - Brocade,
cotton sateen, damask, satin.
• USES IN HOME FURNISHINGS - Sateen weave is
typically used to make bed linen and curtains.
• OTHER USES - Purses, Clutches, Scarves,
Headgears.

7. DOBBY
• Dobby weave was first developed in
1840, and although it is woven on a
loom, like all types of weaving, Dobby
weave requires a special piece of
equipment that attaches to the loom.
• This device is called a ‘Dobby’ and
allows for the production of small
geometric prints to actually be woven
into the fabric.

8. • This technique is done by the
manipulation of the warp yarns in the
fabric.
• This weave is similar to jacquard, as this
uses an attachment for the loom to
create these designs.
• The designs created on a Dobby loom are
much less complex than a Jacquard
pattern though.
• Fabrics produced on a Dobby loom
usually used two or more different
colours of yarns to make the patterns
and designs noticeable, it provides an
alternative to printing fabric after it has
been woven.

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10. • Many different patterns can be created on a
Dobby Loom but it is more tedious and time
consuming than Plain weaving. The design is
usually repeated frequently and an all-over
patterned fabric is produced.
• Dobby Weave can use many different fibres
such as Cotton, Nylon or Silk. A lot of Dobby
fabrics use a combination of these to achieve
different properties depending on the
requirements of the fabric.
• Types of fabric produced on a Dobby Loom
include Birdseye Cotton, Moss Crepe and
Baranthea.

11. Properties of Dobby Woven Fabrics
• Inexpensive to produce
• Small geometric patterns
• More texture than Plain weave fabrics
• Less complex than Jacquard Fabrics
• Different colours available
• Hundreds of different patterns can be
made
• Flexible
• Versatile
• Good Drape
• Slight Stretch
• Resistant to creasing
End Uses of Dobby Woven Fabrics
•Shirts
•Dresses
•Outerwear
•Polo shirts
•Handbags