Genamin Quats Presentation - Essential Ingredients

1. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
29.10.2008
Genamin® Quats
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds

2. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 2
29.10.2008
Quaternary Ammonium Compounds
 Genamin® KDMP/BTLF
Behentrimonium Chloride
 Genamin® STAC
Steartrimonium Chloride
 Genamin® CTAC
Cetrimonium Chloride
 Genamin® DSAP
Distearyldimonium Chloride
 Genamin® PQ 43
Polyquaternium-43

3. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 3
29.10.2008
Hair Care Products: Conditioners
 Reduced tangling, easier combing
 Smooth wet feel, silky dry feel
 Healthy appearance, gloss
 Will not weigh hair down or build-up
 Attractive appearance (rich cream,
or other)
 Hair “repair” and protection from
treatment
 Color protection
 Natural look
 Balances, rejuvenates, volumizes
What Consumers Expect: Market Trends:

4. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 4
29.10.2008
Causes of Hair Damage:
Shampooing, Grooming/ Styling,
Chemical Treatment, Environment
Sources of Hair Stress:
 Hair styling, combing, rubbing,
brushing
 Perms, bleaching, relaxing
 Heat (curling, blow drying)
 UV, chlorine
 Teasing, stretching or extending
Chemical and Morphological
Effects on Hair:
 Cuticle chipping
 Scale abrasion/weakening
 Loss of tensile strength
 Textural changes, roughening
 Dryness, brittleness
 Lowering of isoelectric point

5. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 5
29.10.2008
Deposition of Cationic Conditioners on
Hair
 The isoelectric point of virgin hair is approximately 3.67.
 At pH > 3.67, hair bears a net negative charge (cationic conditioners
bind strongly).
 Chemically treated hair tends to have a lower isoelectric point: more
sites for binding of quats.
 Cationics bind to the hair surface, reducing friction, allowing for
easier combing.

6. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 6
29.10.2008
Water
Quat 1 - 3 %
Thickening agents,
Emulsifiers 3 - 6 %
Quat
Emulsifier
Thickening Agent
Oils
Active Ingredients
Fragrance
Acids
Dyestuff solution
Water
Problem:
more than 1000 conditioning agents,
more than 110 quats
listed @ CTFA
Composition of Hair Rinses

7. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 7
29.10.2008
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Leading US Conditioners ranked by dollar sales (in millions)
for the year ending Oct. 7, 2007
Source: Information Resources Inc., HAPPI 12/2007 (Excludes Wal-Mart sales)

8. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 8
29.10.2008
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride,
Amodimethicone, Pyrus Malus (Apple) Fruit Extract, Fragrance (Parfum),
Cetyl Esters, Lauryl PEG/PPG-18/18 Methicone, Methylparaben, Persea
Gratissima (Avocado Oil), Niacinamide, Pyridoxine HCl, Trideceth 12, Citric
Acid, Prunus Armeniaca (Apricot Kernel Oil), Saccharum Officinarum
(Sugar Cane Extract), Chlorhexidine Dihydrochloride, Cetrimonium
Chloride, Linalool, Butylphenyl Methylpropional, Citrus Limonum (Lemon
Peel Extract), Camellia Sinensis (Camellia Sinensis Leaf Extract)
Claim
Frizzy, Dry or Unmanageable Hair
For Long-Lasting, Sleek Hair*
It improves texture for all hair types, moisturizes and adds softness, without
weighing hair down.
Nutritive Fruit Micro-Oils
The new Garnier Fructis Sleek & Shine System, containing nourishing fruit
micro-oils, specifically responds to the needs of frizzy, dry, difficult-to-smooth hair.
It nourishes the hair, smoothes the hair from root to tip, tames frizz & flyaways so
hair stays sleek all-day.
*In brushing/combing tests, compared to an ordinary shampoo.
Garnier Fructis Sleek and Shine
Get 4x smoother hair with all of the shine, none of the weight.*

9. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 9
29.10.2008
Dove Moisturizing Conditioner
Ingredients
Water (Aqua), Cetearyl Alcohol, Cetrimonium Chloride, Cyclopentasiloxane,
Dimethiconol, Glycerin, Quaternium-18, Fragrance (Parfum), Propylene Glycol,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Potassium Chloride, Disodium EDTA, DMDM Hydantoin,
TEA-Dodecylbenzenesulfonate, Lysine Hydrochloride, Silk Amino Acids
[Alanine, Glycine, Serine, Arginine, Isoleucine, Cystine, Histidine, Glutamic
Acid], Borage (Borago Officinalis) Extract [Palmitic Acid, Stearic Acid, Linoleic
Acid, Oleic Acid, Eicosenoic Acid], Methylchloroisothiazolinone,
Methylisothiazolinone.
Claim
Dove® Moisturizing formula delivers deep replenishment for
dry or damaged hair. It intensely hydrates and restores dry
hair, leaving hair noticeably softer, smoother and more
naturally vibrant. The Dove Difference is our Weightless
Moisture™

10. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 10
29.10.2008
Infusium 23
Conditioner, Moisturizing for Normal to Dry Hair
Ingredients
Water, Cetearyl Alcohol, Behentrimonium Chloride, Cetyl Esters,
Ammodimethicone, Panthenol, Dimethicone Copolyol, Glycerin, Betaine,
Sorbitol, Serine, Glutamic Acid, PEG-8/SMDI Copolymer,
Hydroxyethylcellulose, Glycine, Lysine, Threonine, Arginine, Alanine, Palmitoyl
Myristyl Serinate, Behenic Acid, Oleic Acid, Palmitic Acid, Linoleic Acid, Stearic
Acid, Proline, Arachidic Acid, PEG-8, Cetrimonium Chloride, Fragrance,
Trideceth-12, Polyquaternium-11, Sodium PCA, Phenoxyethanol, DMDM
Hydantoin, Propylparaben
Claim
Corrects, Restores, Structurizes
• Infuses hair with 23 essential pro-vitamin & treatment ingredients
• Releases tangles and leaves hair feeling silky and clean
• Clean rinsing formula
Infusium 23 is specially formulated to fortify the hair cuticle, giving it healthy
texture, improved manageability and liveliness. It rinses easily, releases
tangles and leaves hair feeling clean, silky and greaseless without oily buildup.

11. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 11
29.10.2008
Monoalkyl-
trimethyl
Lauryl Cocoyl Cetyl Stearyl Behenyl
C12 C8-18 C16 C18 C22
CTAC STAC KDMP/BTLF
R - N+ - CH3 X-
CH3
CH3
water solubility
conditioning effect
Influence of Chemical Structure on
Performance

12. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 12
29.10.2008
Genamin CTAC
Cetrimonium chloride
Genamin KDMP/BTLF
Behentrimonium chloride
+++
++
+
++
+
+
Wet
combing
Softening
effect
Antistatic
action
0
+++
+
Genamin STAC
Steartrimonium chloride
Genamin DSAP
Distearyldimonium chloride
++ +
++
Usage
concentration
[% AI]
1.0 - 3.0
0.5 - 2.0
0.5 - 2.0
0.5 - 2.0
Properties of Clariant Quaternary
Ammonium Compounds
Product

13. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 13
29.10.2008
C R E A M R I N S E B II/1118
with Genamin
®
BTLF for excellent dry combability and volume, with
Genamin
®
CTAC for perfect wet combability and anti-static effect
A Genamin®
BTLF (Clariant) 2.50 %
Behentrimonium Chloride
Genamin®
CTAC (Clariant) 3.00 %
Cetrimonium Chloride
Hostacerin®
T-3 (Clariant) 1.50 %
Ceteareth-3
Cetyl Alcohol 3.00 %
B Water ad 100.00 %
C Fragrance 0.30 %
Dyestuff solution q.s.
Preservative q.s.
D Citric Acid (10 % in water) to pH 4,0 q.s.
I Melt A at 75 °C.
II Heat B to 75 °C.
III Stir II into I.
IV Stir until cool.
V At 35 °C add the components of C to IV.
VI Finally adjust the pH with D.

14. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 14
29.10.2008
Genamin® KDMP
INCI: Behentrimonium chloride
 Outstanding conditioner quat, long behenyl (C20/22) alkyl chain gives
highest substantivity to hair
 Excellent silkening/smoothing effect provides "natural" feeling
– volume and body to hair, excellent dry combability
 Excellent antistatic properties, especially when formulated together with
Hostaphat® KL 340D or Hostaphat® KW 340D
 Synergystic effects in combination with Genamin CTAC
 Especially good for “deep conditioners” or for damaged hair
 Easy-to-handle pellet form
 Typical use level: 0.5 - 2.0%
R N CH3
CH3
CH3
+
Cl
_
R = predominantly C20/22

15. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 15
29.10.2008
Genamin® BTLF
INCI: Behentrimonium Chloride
 Same advantages as Genamin KDMP
 Free of flammable solvents – no IPA, 30% dipropylene glycol
 Still high activity ~70%, pellets
 Typical use level: 0.5 - 3.0%
R N CH3
CH3
CH3
+
Cl
_
R = predominantly C20/22

16. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 16
29.10.2008
Genamin® BTLF in Dove
Intensive Pflege, Regenerierende Aufbau-Spülung
(“Intensive care, regenerating structure flushing”)

17. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 17
29.10.2008
Genamin® CTAC
INCI: Cetrimonium Chloride
 Shorter (C16) alkyl chain gives better water solubility: no build-up
 Clear conditioner formulations are possible
 Excellent antistatic properties, especially when formulated together
with Hostaphat® KL 340D
– excellent wet combability
 Synergystic effects in combination with Genamin KDMP
 Available in two concentration levels (~30% and ~50%)
 Typical use level (100% basis): 1 - 3% (for leave-in products limit is
0.25% active)
R N CH3
CH3
CH3
+
Cl
_
R = predominantly C16

18. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 18
29.10.2008
Genamin® STAC
INCI: Steartrimonium Chloride
 Provides softening and antistatic properties to hair
 Soluble in aqueous systems
 Compatible with cationic and amphoteric surfactants
 Compatible with film-forming polymers
 Excellent stability over wide pH range
 Typical use level: 0.5 - 2% (active)
R N CH3
CH3
CH3
+
Cl
_
R = predominantly C18

19. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 19
29.10.2008
Genamin® DSAP
INCI: Distearyldimonium Chloride
 Product is ~95% Active
 Superb softening and antistatic properties
 High substantivity
 Typical use level: 0.5 - 2% (active)
 Excellent cationic emulsifier
 Available as pellets
R N CH3Cl
R
CH3
+
R = C18
-

20. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 20
29.10.2008
Genamin® PQ 43
INCI: Polyquaternium-43
 High performance cationic tetrapolymer
 Liquid additive (15% active) for rinse-off surfactant based
formulations: hair care and skin cleansing products
 Properties :
– leaves a pleasant and smooth/soft feel
– compatible with all types of surfactants (anionic, cationic,
amphoteric) for clear or pearlized formulations
– enhances shine
– antistatic benefits
– formulations are less slippery than PQ 10 based systems
 Applications: shower gels, soaps, shampoos
hairstyling mousses, conditioners, hair gels, sprays
 Very effective: Typical usage concentration : 0.1 - 2 %

21. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 21
29.10.2008
Genamin® PQ 43 co-polymer is built up
of 4 different functionalized subunits:
 AMPS anionic  water solubility
(2-Acrylamido-2-methylpropane sulfonic acid)
 MAPTAC cationic  conditioning
(3-[Methacrylamidopropyl] trimethylammoniumchloride)
 DMAPMA amphoteric  softness, foaming
(N-[3-dimethylamino]propyl- methacrylamide)
 Acrylamide neutral  backbone

22. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 22
29.10.2008
AMPS MAPTAC DMAPMA Acrylamide
C
H
C
H2
CO
NH
C(CH3)2
CH2
S
*
* a
O
O
O
* C
H2
C
H
CO
NH2
*
d
C
H2
CO
NH
CH2
CH3
*
* c
CH2
CH2
N
+
CH3
CH3
H
CH2
CH2
CH2
N
+
CH3
CH3
C
H3
C
H2
CO
NH
CH3
*
* b
Cl
Genamin® PQ 43 Structure

23. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 23
29.10.2008
Benefits of Genamin® PQ 43
 Genamin PQ 43 combines different functional sub-units within one
polymer structure:
– solubility
– conditioning
– softness
– film forming ability
 acts as a skin moisturizer since it absorbs the humidity of the air
and thus prevents the skin from drying out.
 considerably makes the skin smooth and soft
 can act as a carrier substance for other active ingredients to prevent
them from penetration or rinse off.

24. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 24
29.10.2008
Market Products with Genamin® PQ 43
Garnier 2-in-1 Shower & Care
Aqua, sodium laureth sulfate, glycerin, coco
betaine, laureth-11, carboxylic acid, sodium
chloride, parfum, hexylene glycol, disodium
laureth sulfosuccinate, citric acid, sodium
methylparaben, PEG-150 distearate,
polyquaternium-43, DMDM hydantoin,
polyquaternium-10, tocopheryl acetate

25. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 25
29.10.2008
Market Products with Genamin® PQ 43
Tetesept: HydroCreme Dusche Milk & Flower
Aqua, sodium laureth sulfate, glycerin,
cocomidopropyl betaine, ammonium lauryl
sulfate, parfum, cocamide DEA,
polyquaternium-43, PEG-7 glyceryl cocoate,
styrene/acrylates copolymer, sodium
caseinate, propylene glycol, bletilla striata,
citric acid, hydroxypropyl guar
hydroxypropyltrimonium chloride,
phenoxyethanol, methylparaben,
ethylparaben, propylparabem, butylparaben,
isobutylparaben, dehydroacetic acid,
disodium EDTA

26. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 26
29.10.2008
Genamin® Quats: Summary
 BTAC (Genamin KDMP/BTLF) in combination with CTAC (Genamin
CTAC) is the established market standard for superior cream rinse
formulations
 Clariant market leader in BTAC production
 Depending on the final product segment, Clariant provides various
grades of Genamin Quats
 Genamin PQ 43 (Polyquaternium-43) is a unique aqueous solution
for body wash formulation: Compatible with SLES and other anionic
surfactants, easy to handle, effective
 Clariant formulation expertise: Broad variety of guide recipes and
manufacturing advises available on request
– Cream rinse formulation for all type of hair
– Two phase leave on
– Foam / mousse

27. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 27
29.10.2008
CREAMRINSE FOR COLORED HAIR BII / 1128
A Genamin® KDMP (Clariant) 2.50 %
Behentrimonium Chloride
Genamin® CTAC (Clariant) 3.00 %
Cetyltrimonium Chloride
Cetearyl Alcohol 4.00 %
Hostacerin® DGSB (Clariant) 1.50 %
PEG-4 Polyglyceryl-2-Stearate
Isopropylpalmitate 1.50 %
Olive Oil 1.00 %
SilCare® Silicone 41M15 (Clariant) 0.50 %
Caprylyl Methicone
Uvinul MS 40 0.50 %
Benzophenone-4
B Water ad 100 %
Sorbitol 2.00 %
Glycerin 2.00 %
D- Panthenol 1.00 %
C Tocopherylacetate 0.50 %
Extrapone Eibisch Spezial 2.00 %
Aqua, Ethoxydiglycol, Propylene Glycol, Althea Officinalis Extract, Butylene Glycol
Cosi Silk soluble 1.00 %
Hydrolyzed Silk
Chitin Liquid 1.00 %
Carboxymethylchitin
Hydrotriticum WQ 1.00 %
Hydroxypropyltrimonium Hydrolyzed Wheat Protein
Fragrance 0.30 %
Dyestuff solution q.s.
Preservative q.s.
D Sodium Hydroxid > pH 4.0 q.s
Procedure
I Melt A at 80 °C
II Dissolve B and
heat it to 80 °C
III Stir II into I and
stir until cool
V At 35 °C add
the components of
C to IV
VI Finally adjust
the pH with D.

28. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 28
29.10.2008
2 P H A S E - C O N D I T I O N E R , leave on BII 3018
clear, with SilCare 31M50
A Genamin
CTAC (Clariant) 0.80 %
Cetrimonium Chloride
Genamin
PDAC (Clariant) 2.00 %
Polyquaternium-6
Bozequat
4000 (Clariant) 2.00 %
Polyquaternium-43
Genamin
KSL (Clariant) 2.00 %
PEG-5 Stearyl Ammonium Lactate
D-Panthenol 0.50 %
Glycerin 2.00%
Fragrance 0.40 %
Uvinul MS40 0.10%
Benzophenone-4
Dyestuff solution q.s.
Preservative q.s.
Alcohol denat. 10.00 %
B Water ad 100 %
C SilCare® Silicone 31M50 (Clariant) 15.00 %
Caprylyl Trimethicone
Procedure:
I Stir the components of A into B; stir until clear
II Add C to I
III If necessary adjust the pH
Genamin PQ 43

29. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 29
29.10.2008
Quats – Regulatory Issues (SCCP)
 Clariant defends the following
– Cetrimonium and Steartrimonium Chloride
– Rinse-off hair care up to 2.5%
– Leave-on hair care up to 1.0%
– Leave-on facial cream up to 0.5%
– Behentrimonium Chloride
– Rinse-off hair care up to 5.0%
– Leave-on hair care up to 3.0%
 SCCP Opinion of March 2007 for rinse-off cosmetics
– The sum of CTAC and STAC should not exceed 0.5%
– Total sum of BTAC, CTAC and STAC should not exceed 3.0%

30. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
Slide 30
29.10.2008
SCCP Opinion on Use of Alkyl
Trimethylammonium Chlorides
 steartirimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride have concentration limits
– The limits are based on skin irritation potential
 Considering the fact that quaternary ammonium compounds are known to be
irritating, combination effects should also be taken into account. Therefore the
following concentration limits should apply for rinse-off cosmetic products:
– the sum of the cetrimonium and steartrimonium chloride
concentrations should not exceed 0.5%, and
– the total sum of behentrimonium, cetrimonium and/or steartrimonium
chloride should not exceed a maximum level of 3%.
 The submission requests evaluation of the use of these quaternary ammonium
derivatives in leave-on (face)-cream products. This dossier only allows the
safety evaluation of quaternary ammonium compounds in leave-on cosmetic
products when present in a maximum level of 0.1% (preservative or
nonpreservative). The safety evaluation of the leave-on (face)-cream products
containing these substances needs to be assessed on a case by case basis.

31. Public
Functional Chemicals Division
Personal Care
29.10.2008
Questions?