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• INDEX
• Introduction
• Why
• How
• Physics
• Electromagnetic Spectrum
• Penetration of UV radiation and interaction with skin components
• Sun-Screen
• The Sun Protection Factor
• Skin Types
• Active Ingredients: UV Filters
• Individual Filters
• Waterproofing agents
• Formulation
2
3
• Acute exposure of unprotected skin to
UV radiation in sunlight produce :-
1. Sun-Burn
2. Skin – Cancers
3. Skin-aging
4. Hyper-Pigmentation
• To establish balance between damage
and benefits of solar exposure “safe
sun” strategy have been developed by
the healthcare .
• The important part of “safe sun”
strategy is the use of sunscreen.
Hyper-Pigmentation
INTRODUCTION
Sun Burn caused due
to prolonged exposure
to UVA and UVB rays.
Hyper-
Pigmentation
caused by the
exposure to Sun
rays.
5
6
PHYSICS…..
 Sunlight
Total spectrum of the Electromagnetic Radiation given
off by the sun
Electromagnetic Radiation
The full range of wavelengths that makeup light
(visible and non-visible)
Light waves are fluctuations of electric and magnetic
fields
ELECTROMAGNETIC SPECTRUM
UVC
(200-280 nm)
UVB
(280-320 nm)
UVA
(320-400
nm)
9
UVC region
Described as the
germicidal UV
because of its
ability to kill single-
cell organisms.
Far-UV and UVC
were prevented
from reaching the
Earth's surface by
the formation of
the ozone layer.
Since UVC
radiation is both
cytotoxic and
capable of
producing severe
sunburn at very
low exposure
levels,
evidence of ozone
depletion will need
to be viewed as
very serious.
10
UVB region
Identified as UV-
’B' for burning.
Primary initiator
of sunburn,
contributing
approximately
85% of summer
sunburn
reaction.
Responsible for the
initiation of certain skin
cancers, many
photodermatoses,
premature skin ageing
and for the generation
of the photoprotective
pigment known as
melanin which gives
our skin its suntanned
appearance.
UVB is also
responsible for
synthesis of
vitamin D in the
skin.
11
UVA region
Identified as UV-
'A' for ageing.
Contributes to
15% of sun burn
reaction.
long-term effects
on the dermal
layers of skin are
wrinkling and
ageing.
Many
photodermatological
skin conditions such
as polymorphic light
eruption (PLE), solar
urticaria and chronic
actinic dermatitis
(CAD), occur as a
result of exposure to
UVA light.
UVA rays are
responsible
for the skin
cancer .
Penetration of UV radiation and
interaction with skin components….
13
UVB
Chromopho
res
(DNA)
Effect of
UVB rays on
the blood
vessels.
Melanin
Production
Transport of
melanin to
newly
developed
keratinocyte
s .
Formation
of
Protective
Sun-Tan.
14
UVA
radiation
direct DNA
damage
initiate
photochem
ical
reaction
production
of
oxidative
free
radicals
Damage
the cellular
protein
Result in
ageing and
Initiate
Cancer.
15
Melanin
• Skin’s protective sun filter
• Natural pigment
• Acts as a shield against the sun’s ultraviolet rays
• Greater in populations that live in area with greater sun intensity
(Africa, Latin America, India)
17
• Sunscreens prevent the formation
of squamous cell carcinomas of the
skin.
• Daily sunscreen use on the hands
and face reduced the total
incidence of squamous cell
carcinoma.
• Sunscreens also prevent
immunosuppression.
• First effective sunscreen was made
in 1946
SUN-SCREEN
 There are some common myths and misconceptions surrounding
sunscreens that people should be aware of before buying their
next bottle.
 Myth: “ I have darker skin, So I don’t need to worry.”
FALSE
 Myth: “ But I need sun to get enough Vitamin D.”
FALSE
 Myth: “You don't need to protect or cover your skin on cloudy
days.”
FALSE
LET’S SEE WHAT YOU KNOW (OR DON’T)
The sun protection factor (SPF)
• It is a rating system developed by the FDA ,
“to describe the level of sun protection provided by a sunscreen.”
• Since SPF measures sunburn it is predominantly, a measure of UVB
protection.
• The FDA has published the COLIPA SPF Test Method(European
Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association).
• SPF = the dose of UVR required to produce 1 minimal erythema dose
(MED) on protected skin after application of 2 mg/cm2 of product
divided by the UVR to produce 1 MED on unprotected skin.
• The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of
specific wavelength or range of wavelengths which produces the first
unambiguous reddening of human skin.
SPF =
𝑬𝒙𝒑𝒐𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 𝒕𝒊𝒎𝒆 𝒕𝒐 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒆 𝒆𝒓𝒚𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒎𝒂 (𝑴𝑬𝑫) 𝒐𝒏 𝒖𝒏𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒕𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒆𝒅 𝒔𝒌𝒊𝒏
𝑬𝒙𝒑𝒐𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 𝒕𝒊𝒎𝒆 𝒕𝒐 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒆 𝒆𝒓𝒚𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒎𝒂(𝑴𝑬𝑫) 𝒐𝒏 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒕𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒆𝒅 𝒔𝒌𝒊𝒏
• If your skin would normally burn after 10 minutes in the sun, applying
an SPF 15 sunscreen would allow you to stay in the sun without
burning for approximately 150 minutes (a factor of 15 times longer).
• The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) scale is not linear:
• SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays
• SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays
• SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays
• SPF 15 (93% protection) allows 7 out of 100 photons through.
• SPF 30 (97% protection) allows 3 out of 100 photons through.
22
PA +++
 If a product’s PPD = 2 to
4, PA = PA+
 If a product’s PPD = 4 to
8, PA = PA++
 If a product’s PPD = 8 to
16, PA = PA+++
 If a product’s PPD = 16
or higher, PA = PA++++
• PA grading system was established in
Japan.
• Measures level of protection from UVA
rays.
• Adapted from the Persistent Pigment
Darkening (PPD) method.
• This test uses UVA radiation to cause a
persistent darkening—tanning—of the
skin.
• Every test subject is analyzed on how long
it takes for their skin to tan. Researchers
then compare the results between
unprotected and protected skin.
Skin types and the choice of sun product
Individuals may be classified into one of six skin types, as described
by Fitzpatrick , according to the way their skin behaves on exposure to
UV radiation:
I Always burns easily; never tans
II Burns easily; tans minimally
III Burns moderately; tans gradually
IV Burns minimally; tans easily
V Rarely burns; tans profusely
VI Never burns; deeply pigmented
The first priority of a sun product is to protect the skin from erythemal
radiation and hence sunburn. This can be achieved by protecting
primarily against UVB wavelengths.
• As stated, the function of
sunscreen products is to
absorb/scatter/reflect
solar UV, thereby reducing
the dose of such harmful
radiation to the skin.
• This is accomplished
through the use of a
combination of UV filters
and an appropriate film-
forming vehicle.
Function Of Sun-Screen
• UV filters in sunscreen are responsible for the
absorption/reflection/scattering of solar UV.
• To achieve the SPF and breadth of UV protection, a combination of
UV filters is selected.
• For e.g., to achieve SPF 15 filters must absorb wavelengths
from290–340 nm.
• To absorb long wavelength UVA-I (340–400 nm) avobenzone/zinc
oxide or both is used.
• SPF of product increase, UV Filters Concentration also increase.
Active Ingredients: UV Filters
27
Types :
Organic
UV filters
• Selected for their UVR-
absorbing capacities.
Particles
(Physical
Blockers)
• Inorganic (metal oxides)
• Organic (microfine
polymeric molecules)
† Polar oils,
• e.g., octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene
† Oil soluble crystalline solids,
• e.g., avobenzone, and the benzophenones
† Water soluble salts,
• e.g., ensulizole
† Insoluble powders/particulates,
• e.g., zinc oxide and titanium dioxide
From a formulation perspective, the UV filters can be
categorized into one of four groups :
1. UVB
• PABA and Its Derivatives :
• first chemical sunscreen
• Ester derivatives of PABA, mainly octyl dimetyl PABA or
padimate O, are more popular.
• Amyl dimethyl PABA and glyceryl PABA (glyceryl
aminobenzoate) are no longer used.
• Padimate O or octyl dimethyl PABA is a most potent UV
absorber in the mid-UVB range
INDIVIDUAL UV FILTERS
• Next most potent UVB absorbers allowed by the FDA monograph.
• Largely replaced PABA derivatives.
• Octinoxate or octyl methoxycinnamate is the most frequently used
sunscreen ingredient.
• Octyl or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate less potent and requires
additional UVB absorbers to achieve higher SPF levels in a final
product.
• Cinoxate (ethoxy-ethyl-p-methoxycinnamate) is less widely used.
• Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (EU no. 14) is available in Europe.
Cinnamates
• Salicylates are weaker UVB absorbers.
• Replaced by the more efficient PABA and cinnamate derivatives.
• With the trend to higher SPFs, more octisalate or octyl salicylate
(ethylhexyl salicylate) is being used followed by homosalate or
homomenthyl salicylate.
• Both materials have the ability to solubilize oxybenzone and
avobenzone.
Salicylates
• Not approved by the FDA for use in the United States.
• There are six camphor derivatives approved in Europe, and 4-
methylbenzylidene camphor (EU no. 18) is the most widely used
one.
• Octocrylene 2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3 diphenyl acrylate or
octocrylene is chemically related to cinnamates.
• It can be used to boost SPF and improve water resistance in a
given formulation. Octocrylene is photostable and can improve the
photostability of other sunscreens.
Camphor Derivatives
• Benzophenones :
• Although oxybenzone or benzophenone-3 absorbs most efficiently
in the UVB range, absorption extends well into the UVA II range.
• It is used primarily as a UVA absorber, but boosts SPF values in
combination with other UVB absorbers.
• Oxybenzone is supplied as a solid material and has poor solubility
and a relatively low extinction coefficient.
• Sulisobenzone or benzophenone-4 is water soluble, somewhat
unstable, and used with less frequency.
UVA
• Opaque formulations reflecting or scattering UVR
• TiO2 and ZnO are chemically inert and protect through the full
spectrum of UVR.
• TiO2 and ZnO offer the best available protection in the UVA II range.
• Physical blockers also have the significant advantage of lowered
skin irritancy potential.
Physical Blockers
• ZnO was added as an active sunscreen agent for the FDA OTC
sunscreen monograph with avobenzone.
• Reduced to a particle size of less than 200 nm, light scattering is
minimized and the particles appear transparent in thin films.
• ZnO has a refractive index of 1.9, as opposed to 2.6 for TiO2, and
therefore causes less whitening than TiO2.
• ZnO attenuates UVR more effectively in the UVA I range with a peak
at 360 nm. Microfine TiO2 at an equal concentration offers
somewhat more protection in the UVB range.
Zinc Oxide
• Water resistance can be achieved in a number of ways. Oil-based
formulations or stick formulations have inbuilt water repellency
due to their nonaqueous nature.
• Water-in-oil emulsions are usually inherently water-resistant.
• PABA-type sun filters are more resistant to wash-off than other
organic sunscreens.
• Excellent waterproofing agents:-
• dimethicone 350
• cyclomethicone
• trimethylsiloxysilicate
Waterproofing agents
Materials and Suppliers..
Materials INCI name Supplier
Sunscreens
Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl
methane
Butyl
methoxydibenzoylmethane
Givaudan
Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane Merck
Menthyl anthranilate Menthyl anthranilate Felton
3-(4-Methylbenzylidene)
campho
4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor Merck, H&R
Octyl dimethyl PABA Octyl dimethyl PABA Felton, Merck, Van Dy
Octyl methoxycinnamate Octyl methoxycinnamate Givaudan
Octyl salicylate Octyl salicylate Felton
Thickeners-Carbomer 940 Carbomer BF Goodrich
Neutralizers – Citric acid Citric Acid H&R, Roche
Formulation
40
These are an extremely attractive and elegant formulation type.
Their main drawbacks lie in their potential irritancy where alcohol is part
of the formula, and their relatively low SPF and water-resistant
properties.
Gels
Non-aqueous system %w/w
Phase A
Octyl methoxycinnamte 7.5
Octyl salicylate 5.0
Menthyl anthranilate 3.5
Phenyl trimethicone 1.5
Dimethicone copolyol 3.0
Isopropyl myristate 5.0
Phase B
Hydroxypropylcellulose 1.0
Ethanol 95% 73.5
• The gel
structure is
imparted by the
cellulose which
can also be
added to a
solution of all
ingredients in
the ethanol with
stirring until
gelled.
They may be oil-in-water, water-in-oil or more complex in nature.
Able to achieve the highest SPF of all formulation types because they
deposit a uniform non-transparent film on the skin.
They also have the ability to penetrate the skin's horny layer to some
degree.
The oil phase can contain:
• Oil-soluble sunscreen materials.
• Oil-soluble antioxidant vitamins, for example vitamin E.
• Water-resistant agents, silicones, polymers.
• Emollients, esters or oils such as mineral or vegetable oil.
• Primary oil-soluble emulsifiers.
Emulsions:
• Secondary emulsifiers.
• Lipid materials as skin conditioners or for skin feel.
• Oil phase thickeners.
The water phase can contain:
• Water-soluble sunscreen agents.
• Humectants, glycerol, sorbitol.
• Primary and secondary water-soluble emulsifiers.
• Water phase thickeners.
• Neutralizing agents.
Continue…
Oil-in-water lotion used as the high SPF standard in the COLIPA SPF
test method
Phase A %w/w
Lanolin 4.5
Cocoa Butter 2.0
Glyceryl monosterate 3.0
Stearic acid 2.0
Octyl dimethyl PABA 7.0
Oxybenzone 3.0
Phase B
Deionized water 71.6
Sorbitol liquid 5.0
Triethanolamine 1.0
Methylparaben 0.3
Propylparaben 0.1
Phase C
Benzyl alcohol 0.5
Water-in-oil waterproof sun lotion (Courtesy of Haarmann and
Reimer)
Phase A
Cetyl dimethione
copolyol
2.00
Polyglyceryl-4-
isostearate
1.00
Dioctylcyclohexane 17.00
Paraffin Oil 8.50
Phase B
Deionized water 65.75
Phenylbenzimidazole
sulfonic acid
3.00
Triethanolamine 0.35
1,2-propylene glycol 2.00
Preservative 0.40
• This lotion is inherently
waterproof, aided by the w/o
formulation.
• The formula provides UVB
protection only from the water-
soluble sunscreen.
Method:-
• Phase B is adjusted to pH 7.5
with triethanolamine with the
correct pH being critical.
• It is then added cold to Phase
A previously heated to 700C,
and after cooling is
homogenized with a colloid
mixer to establish the
emulsion.
46
• Protection Against UVB: the Sun Protection Factor
• UVA protection of a sunscreen:
• in vivo measurement of afforded protection with the persistent pigment
darkening method
• in vitro absorbance measurements
• in vitro determination of the critical wavelength
• in vitro determination of a UVA protection factor (UVAPF)
The requirements differ slightly between different regulatory
authorities.
The FDA has proposed a two-step testing [in vivo persistent pigment
darkening testing and in vitro the ratio of long-wavelength UVA
absorbance (UVA I) to the total UVR absorbance (UVB + UVA)] .
EVALUATION OF THE EFFICACY CLAIM – as
per Regulatory Claims
The Colipa (the European cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery
association) has recently issued a detailed guideline on the in vitro
determination of the UVAPF of sunscreen products.
EU and FDA has proposed Colipa guidelines
FDA has also published Guidance for Industry Labeling and
Effectiveness Testing: Sunscreen Drug Products for Over The-
Counter Human Use.
FDA & EU guidelines
Summary of Specific Labeling Requirements for OTC Sunscreen Drug Products
Subject to the 2011 Sunscreen Final Rule – Proposed by FDA
Labeling Section Labeling Required
Principal Display
Panel
All sunscreen drug products must bear the statement of identity “sunscreen.”
For sunscreen drug products that pass the Broad Spectrum Test in
21 CFR 201.327(j):
“Broad Spectrum SPF [insert numerical value determined by the SPF Test in
21 CFR 201.327(i)]”
This entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear as continuous text with no
intervening text or graphics. The entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear in the
same font style, size, and color on the same background color.
For sunscreen drug products that do not pass the Broad Spectrum Test in
21 CFR 201.327(j):
“SPF [insert numerical value determined by the SPF Test in
21 CFR 201.327(i)]”
This entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear as continuous text with no intervening
text or graphics. The entire statement, including the SPF value,
must appear in the same font style, size, and color on the same background color.
For sunscreen drug products that provide 40 or 80 minutes of water resistance according to the
test in 21 CFR 201.327(i)(7):
“Water Resistant ([insert length of time drug product is proven to be water resistant, either 40
minutes or 80 minutes, according to 21 CFR 201.327(i)(7)])”
Uses For all sunscreen drug products: “helps prevent sunburn”
For sunscreen drug products that are Broad Spectrum with SPF 15 or higher according to the tests in
21 CFR 201.327(i) and (j), use of the following additional statement is optional:
“if used as directed with other sun protection measures (see Directions), decreases the risk
of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun”
• A product is claimed to be “WR” if it retains the same category
description after 40 minutes of water immersion (time periods separated
by a 20-minute rest period without toweling).
• It may be claimed “very WR” if this is the case after four immersion
periods of 20 minutes each (80 minutes).
• The claim “waterproof” is no longer allowed. Products carrying the
claims WR or very WR may also claim to be “sweat resistant” because
the FDA concluded that the immersion test is a more severe test than a
sweating test.
• It is now proposed that the time spent in water (40 or 80 minutes) would
be added on the product label to ensure frequent reapplication.
FDA Guideline for “WR”
51
• INDEX
• Acne Vulgaris – Introduction
• External Factors that contribute to Acne….
• Causes
• Androgens & Acne
• Signs and Symptoms
• Types of Acne
• Acne Treatment
52
• Acne is one of the most common skin diseases, there are about
17,000,000 Americans affected by acne.
• According to the data in US research, close to 100% of people
between the ages of 12 to 17 have acne. After the age of 15,
around 40% of adolescents have acne severe enough to require
treatment by a physician.
• Acne is a skin condition characterized by whiteheads, blackheads, and
inflamed red pimples or "zits."
• One of the most common skin diseases presenting to family physicians
• Considerable psychological impact on the quality of life
• No cure, but the disease can be controlled through medications.
• Acne is a self-limited disorder
primarily of teenagers & young
adults.
• Acne is a disease of
pilosebaceous follicles.
• 4 factors are involved:
• Retention hyperkeratosis
• Increased Sebum production
• Propionbacterium acnes within
the follicle
• Inflammation
External Factors that contribute to Acne….
• Oils, greases, dyes in hair products
• Detergents, soaps, astringents
• Occlusive clothing: turtlenecks
• Environmental Factors: Humidity & Heavy exercise.
• Psychological stress
• Diet is controversial
Acne vulgaris typically affects those areas of the body that have the greatest number of sebaceous glands:
• the face neck
• Chest
• upper back
• upper arms
 In addition to the typical lesions of acne vulgaris, scarring and
hyperpigmentation can also occur.
 Hyperpigmentation is most common in patients with dark complexions
 Certain drugs like steroids, testosterone, and estrogen can cause acne
 High levels of Humidity and sweating
Conti…
Causes…..
• Acne develops from the following four factors:
• (1) follicular epidermal hyperproliferation with subsequent plugging of
the follicle,
• (2) excess sebum production,
• (3) the presence and activity of the commensal bacteria Cutibacterium
acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes)
• (4) inflammation.
• In addition, genetics is also a key factor in the pathophysiology of acne.
Androgens & Acne
Androgens (male hormones) are present in females as well as males,
but in higher amounts in males.
Androgens cause the sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin to produce
more sebum (oil), excess androgens will cause excess sebum
production.
If excess production of sebum plugs the opening of the follicles, it may
increase the amount of bacteria which cause inflammatory acne.
Despite having normal level of androgen, if the sebaceous glands are
over-sensitive to androgens, excess sebum is thus produced, acne
results.
• Blackheads (plugged with dark sebum)
• Crusting of skin
• Cysts
• Inflamation around the skin
• Puss
• Scarring on skin
• Whiteheads (pore closed~comedo)
Signs and Symptoms
Types of Acne
Whitehead:
a closed
comedo is a
sebaceous
follicle
plugged with
sebum.
Its
appearance
is that of skin-
colored or
slightly
inflamed
“bump”
in the skin.
Blackhead:
a comedo
is open. The surface of
the plug in the
follicle has
blackish
appearance.
Papules Pustules
Types of Acne
Papules:
a small, solid
lesion slightly
elevated above
the surface of
the skin. It is
caused by
localized
cellular
reaction to the
process of
acne.
Pustules:
a dome-shaped,
fragile lesion
containing pus
that typically
consists of
mixture of
white blood
cells, dead
skin cells and
bacteria.
Papules Pustules
Nodules Cysts
Types of Acne
Nodule:
is characterized by
inflammation,
extends
into deeper layers
of the skin and
may cause tissue
destruction that
results in scarring.
It may be very
painful.
Cyst:
It may be
severely
inflamed,
extends into
deeper layers
of the skin,
may be very
painful, and
can result in
scarring.
Cysts
Stages of Development
Acne Treatment
64
Purposes of Acne Treatment
• Decrease sebum production
• Reduce P. acnes (bacteria)
• Reduce keratinization
• Eliminate inflammation
A dermatologist may combine two or more treatment options to create
effective therapy and prevent new lesions from forming.
External keratolytics may reduce keratinization. Treatment
such as:
• Salicylic acid
• Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA)
• Benzoyl peroxide (cannot eliminate inflammation)
• Retinoids
Anti-inflammatory drugs to inhibit P. acnes (bacteria)
Treatment for Mild Acne – Topical
The Common rationale of some of the treatment method
1. Use anti-androgen (e.g. oral contraceptive pills) to regulate
androgen, to prevent excess sebum production. This method is
only suitable for women.
2. Use anti-biotic to curb the growth of bacteria.
3. Use retinoids, derivative of vitamin A (e.g. isotretinoin) to reduce
sebum production and keratinization. Patients may experience side
effects.
Beside the above treatment methods, other non-medical
treatment may be introduced, for example to keep the
skin clean by using skincare products correctly.
Treatment for Severe Acne
• Use anti-biotic, for example tetracycline,
erythromycin or co-trimoxazole etc. to curb
the growth of bacteria and reduce
inflammation.
• Use with care and prolonged treatment
may be necessary to achieve the desire
results.
Treatment for Severe Acne – Oral
Anti-biotic
• To reduce sebum production and help
skin cells inside follicles to return to
normal. Effective but takes 4-5 months
before beginning to see an
improvement.
• Early use will cause dryness and
shedding of skin, and even cracking
around the mouth.
• Might cause foetal abnormality, hence
not suitable for pregnant women or
women planning to have babies.
• Studies show it might cause suicidal
attempt. Physician follow-up is
required.
Treatment for Severe Acne –
Oral Retinoids (isotretinoin)
• Androgens stimulate sebum production.
To tackle of root cause of acne, women
should find ways to tackle androgens.
• Oral contraceptives works by regulating
the hormones (estrogen, progestogen
and androgen), blocking the effect of
androgen on the skin, and thus reducing
sebum production.
• It is effective in acne treatment and
sebum control among women.
Treatment for Severe Acne –
Anti-androgen
Formulation of Antiacne Cream with Chitosan and Docusate Sodium
72
73
74
Introduction
• Skin care is the range of practices that support skin
integrity, enhance its appearance and relieve skin
conditions.
• They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun
exposure and appropriate use of emollients.
• Practices that enhance appearance include the use of
cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser
resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, retinol therapy.
• Skin care is a routine daily procedure in many settings,
such as skin that is either too dry or too moist, and
prevention of dermatitis and prevention of skin injuries.
What’s Your Skin Type?
Normal Skin Type
Combination Skin Type
Dry Skin Type
Oily Skin Type
76
77
Cleansing
Toning
Exfoliating
Moisturizing
Skin Care Regimen
78
79
80
81
82
83
Cleaning Your Face
• Be Gentle
• Washing your face
• Use soft sponge to remove makeup
• Use lukewarm water
• Avoid strong soaps
• Use hands to wash face
• Rinse and pat dry
• Don’t wash too often
Work by providing a seal – keeps moisture from
escaping
Apply moisturizers immediately after showering
Select best moisturizer for you
• Depends on skin type
• Age
• Skin conditions
Daytime use moisturizer with at least SPF 15
Moisturizing: Hydrate Your Skin
• Eat a healthy diet
• Exercise
• Sleep well
• Protect yourself from the sun
• Avoid antibacterial or antimicrobial soaps
• Wash skin fold areas more often
• Avoid using talc powders
• Calluses and nails
Maintain a Healthy Lifestyle
I.
1. Explain active UV filters.
2. UVA filters.
3. UVB filters
4. What is significance of avobenzone as UVA filter.
II.
1. Pathophysiology of acne.
2. Cause of acne .
3. Short note on Acne Vulgaris.
4. Write a note on Oral Rotenoids.
5. What is significance of Androgen in acne ? Write a note on Anti-androgens.
Questions
1. http://www.fda.gov
2. Hilda Butler, 10th Edition, Kluwer Academic Publishers. Handbook of
CosmeticScienceand Technology, 3rdEdition,
3. http://www.aad.org/
4. http://www.epa.gov
5. Dermatology Times Cleveland:Sep 2004. Vol. 25, Iss. 9, p. 1,19,23 (3 pp.)
6. U.S. News & World Report Washington:Jul 21, 2003. Vol. 135, Iss. 2, p. 51
7. Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 by Diana Draelos Zoe,
Lauren A. Thaman-Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products
8. Andre Barel, Howard I. Maibach, Andre O. Barel-Handbook of Cosmetic Science
and Technology-Informa Healthcare (2009)
9. Cosmetics – Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, P.P. Sharma,4th
edition, Vandana Publications Pvt.Ltd.,Delhi
10. Guidance for Industry Labeling and Effectiveness Testing: Sunscreen Drug
Products for OverThe-Counter Human Use — Small Entity Compliance Guide
11. www.formulationscann.com
Refrences
89

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sunprotction.pptx

  • 1. 1
  • 2. • INDEX • Introduction • Why • How • Physics • Electromagnetic Spectrum • Penetration of UV radiation and interaction with skin components • Sun-Screen • The Sun Protection Factor • Skin Types • Active Ingredients: UV Filters • Individual Filters • Waterproofing agents • Formulation 2
  • 3. 3
  • 4. • Acute exposure of unprotected skin to UV radiation in sunlight produce :- 1. Sun-Burn 2. Skin – Cancers 3. Skin-aging 4. Hyper-Pigmentation • To establish balance between damage and benefits of solar exposure “safe sun” strategy have been developed by the healthcare . • The important part of “safe sun” strategy is the use of sunscreen. Hyper-Pigmentation INTRODUCTION
  • 5. Sun Burn caused due to prolonged exposure to UVA and UVB rays. Hyper- Pigmentation caused by the exposure to Sun rays. 5
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  • 7. PHYSICS…..  Sunlight Total spectrum of the Electromagnetic Radiation given off by the sun Electromagnetic Radiation The full range of wavelengths that makeup light (visible and non-visible) Light waves are fluctuations of electric and magnetic fields
  • 10. UVC region Described as the germicidal UV because of its ability to kill single- cell organisms. Far-UV and UVC were prevented from reaching the Earth's surface by the formation of the ozone layer. Since UVC radiation is both cytotoxic and capable of producing severe sunburn at very low exposure levels, evidence of ozone depletion will need to be viewed as very serious. 10
  • 11. UVB region Identified as UV- ’B' for burning. Primary initiator of sunburn, contributing approximately 85% of summer sunburn reaction. Responsible for the initiation of certain skin cancers, many photodermatoses, premature skin ageing and for the generation of the photoprotective pigment known as melanin which gives our skin its suntanned appearance. UVB is also responsible for synthesis of vitamin D in the skin. 11
  • 12. UVA region Identified as UV- 'A' for ageing. Contributes to 15% of sun burn reaction. long-term effects on the dermal layers of skin are wrinkling and ageing. Many photodermatological skin conditions such as polymorphic light eruption (PLE), solar urticaria and chronic actinic dermatitis (CAD), occur as a result of exposure to UVA light. UVA rays are responsible for the skin cancer .
  • 13. Penetration of UV radiation and interaction with skin components…. 13
  • 14. UVB Chromopho res (DNA) Effect of UVB rays on the blood vessels. Melanin Production Transport of melanin to newly developed keratinocyte s . Formation of Protective Sun-Tan. 14
  • 16. Melanin • Skin’s protective sun filter • Natural pigment • Acts as a shield against the sun’s ultraviolet rays • Greater in populations that live in area with greater sun intensity (Africa, Latin America, India)
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  • 18. • Sunscreens prevent the formation of squamous cell carcinomas of the skin. • Daily sunscreen use on the hands and face reduced the total incidence of squamous cell carcinoma. • Sunscreens also prevent immunosuppression. • First effective sunscreen was made in 1946 SUN-SCREEN
  • 19.  There are some common myths and misconceptions surrounding sunscreens that people should be aware of before buying their next bottle.  Myth: “ I have darker skin, So I don’t need to worry.” FALSE  Myth: “ But I need sun to get enough Vitamin D.” FALSE  Myth: “You don't need to protect or cover your skin on cloudy days.” FALSE LET’S SEE WHAT YOU KNOW (OR DON’T)
  • 20. The sun protection factor (SPF) • It is a rating system developed by the FDA , “to describe the level of sun protection provided by a sunscreen.” • Since SPF measures sunburn it is predominantly, a measure of UVB protection. • The FDA has published the COLIPA SPF Test Method(European Cosmetic Toiletry and Perfumery Association). • SPF = the dose of UVR required to produce 1 minimal erythema dose (MED) on protected skin after application of 2 mg/cm2 of product divided by the UVR to produce 1 MED on unprotected skin. • The MED is defined as the minimum quantity of radiant energy of specific wavelength or range of wavelengths which produces the first unambiguous reddening of human skin.
  • 21. SPF = 𝑬𝒙𝒑𝒐𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 𝒕𝒊𝒎𝒆 𝒕𝒐 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒆 𝒆𝒓𝒚𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒎𝒂 (𝑴𝑬𝑫) 𝒐𝒏 𝒖𝒏𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒕𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒆𝒅 𝒔𝒌𝒊𝒏 𝑬𝒙𝒑𝒐𝒔𝒖𝒓𝒆 𝒕𝒊𝒎𝒆 𝒕𝒐 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒅𝒖𝒄𝒆 𝒆𝒓𝒚𝒕𝒉𝒆𝒎𝒂(𝑴𝑬𝑫) 𝒐𝒏 𝒑𝒓𝒐𝒕𝒆𝒄𝒕𝒆𝒅 𝒔𝒌𝒊𝒏 • If your skin would normally burn after 10 minutes in the sun, applying an SPF 15 sunscreen would allow you to stay in the sun without burning for approximately 150 minutes (a factor of 15 times longer). • The SPF (Sun Protection Factor) scale is not linear: • SPF 15 blocks 93% of UVB rays • SPF 30 blocks 97% of UVB rays • SPF 50 blocks 98% of UVB rays • SPF 15 (93% protection) allows 7 out of 100 photons through. • SPF 30 (97% protection) allows 3 out of 100 photons through.
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  • 23. PA +++  If a product’s PPD = 2 to 4, PA = PA+  If a product’s PPD = 4 to 8, PA = PA++  If a product’s PPD = 8 to 16, PA = PA+++  If a product’s PPD = 16 or higher, PA = PA++++ • PA grading system was established in Japan. • Measures level of protection from UVA rays. • Adapted from the Persistent Pigment Darkening (PPD) method. • This test uses UVA radiation to cause a persistent darkening—tanning—of the skin. • Every test subject is analyzed on how long it takes for their skin to tan. Researchers then compare the results between unprotected and protected skin.
  • 24. Skin types and the choice of sun product Individuals may be classified into one of six skin types, as described by Fitzpatrick , according to the way their skin behaves on exposure to UV radiation: I Always burns easily; never tans II Burns easily; tans minimally III Burns moderately; tans gradually IV Burns minimally; tans easily V Rarely burns; tans profusely VI Never burns; deeply pigmented The first priority of a sun product is to protect the skin from erythemal radiation and hence sunburn. This can be achieved by protecting primarily against UVB wavelengths.
  • 25. • As stated, the function of sunscreen products is to absorb/scatter/reflect solar UV, thereby reducing the dose of such harmful radiation to the skin. • This is accomplished through the use of a combination of UV filters and an appropriate film- forming vehicle. Function Of Sun-Screen
  • 26. • UV filters in sunscreen are responsible for the absorption/reflection/scattering of solar UV. • To achieve the SPF and breadth of UV protection, a combination of UV filters is selected. • For e.g., to achieve SPF 15 filters must absorb wavelengths from290–340 nm. • To absorb long wavelength UVA-I (340–400 nm) avobenzone/zinc oxide or both is used. • SPF of product increase, UV Filters Concentration also increase. Active Ingredients: UV Filters
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  • 28. Types : Organic UV filters • Selected for their UVR- absorbing capacities. Particles (Physical Blockers) • Inorganic (metal oxides) • Organic (microfine polymeric molecules)
  • 29. † Polar oils, • e.g., octinoxate, octisalate, homosalate, and octocrylene † Oil soluble crystalline solids, • e.g., avobenzone, and the benzophenones † Water soluble salts, • e.g., ensulizole † Insoluble powders/particulates, • e.g., zinc oxide and titanium dioxide From a formulation perspective, the UV filters can be categorized into one of four groups :
  • 30. 1. UVB • PABA and Its Derivatives : • first chemical sunscreen • Ester derivatives of PABA, mainly octyl dimetyl PABA or padimate O, are more popular. • Amyl dimethyl PABA and glyceryl PABA (glyceryl aminobenzoate) are no longer used. • Padimate O or octyl dimethyl PABA is a most potent UV absorber in the mid-UVB range INDIVIDUAL UV FILTERS
  • 31. • Next most potent UVB absorbers allowed by the FDA monograph. • Largely replaced PABA derivatives. • Octinoxate or octyl methoxycinnamate is the most frequently used sunscreen ingredient. • Octyl or ethylhexyl methoxycinnamate less potent and requires additional UVB absorbers to achieve higher SPF levels in a final product. • Cinoxate (ethoxy-ethyl-p-methoxycinnamate) is less widely used. • Isoamyl p-methoxycinnamate (EU no. 14) is available in Europe. Cinnamates
  • 32. • Salicylates are weaker UVB absorbers. • Replaced by the more efficient PABA and cinnamate derivatives. • With the trend to higher SPFs, more octisalate or octyl salicylate (ethylhexyl salicylate) is being used followed by homosalate or homomenthyl salicylate. • Both materials have the ability to solubilize oxybenzone and avobenzone. Salicylates
  • 33. • Not approved by the FDA for use in the United States. • There are six camphor derivatives approved in Europe, and 4- methylbenzylidene camphor (EU no. 18) is the most widely used one. • Octocrylene 2-Ethylhexyl-2-cyano-3,3 diphenyl acrylate or octocrylene is chemically related to cinnamates. • It can be used to boost SPF and improve water resistance in a given formulation. Octocrylene is photostable and can improve the photostability of other sunscreens. Camphor Derivatives
  • 34. • Benzophenones : • Although oxybenzone or benzophenone-3 absorbs most efficiently in the UVB range, absorption extends well into the UVA II range. • It is used primarily as a UVA absorber, but boosts SPF values in combination with other UVB absorbers. • Oxybenzone is supplied as a solid material and has poor solubility and a relatively low extinction coefficient. • Sulisobenzone or benzophenone-4 is water soluble, somewhat unstable, and used with less frequency. UVA
  • 35. • Opaque formulations reflecting or scattering UVR • TiO2 and ZnO are chemically inert and protect through the full spectrum of UVR. • TiO2 and ZnO offer the best available protection in the UVA II range. • Physical blockers also have the significant advantage of lowered skin irritancy potential. Physical Blockers
  • 36. • ZnO was added as an active sunscreen agent for the FDA OTC sunscreen monograph with avobenzone. • Reduced to a particle size of less than 200 nm, light scattering is minimized and the particles appear transparent in thin films. • ZnO has a refractive index of 1.9, as opposed to 2.6 for TiO2, and therefore causes less whitening than TiO2. • ZnO attenuates UVR more effectively in the UVA I range with a peak at 360 nm. Microfine TiO2 at an equal concentration offers somewhat more protection in the UVB range. Zinc Oxide
  • 37. • Water resistance can be achieved in a number of ways. Oil-based formulations or stick formulations have inbuilt water repellency due to their nonaqueous nature. • Water-in-oil emulsions are usually inherently water-resistant. • PABA-type sun filters are more resistant to wash-off than other organic sunscreens. • Excellent waterproofing agents:- • dimethicone 350 • cyclomethicone • trimethylsiloxysilicate Waterproofing agents
  • 38. Materials and Suppliers.. Materials INCI name Supplier Sunscreens Butyl methoxy dibenzoyl methane Butyl methoxydibenzoylmethane Givaudan Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane Isopropyl dibenzoylmethane Merck Menthyl anthranilate Menthyl anthranilate Felton 3-(4-Methylbenzylidene) campho 4-Methylbenzylidene Camphor Merck, H&R Octyl dimethyl PABA Octyl dimethyl PABA Felton, Merck, Van Dy Octyl methoxycinnamate Octyl methoxycinnamate Givaudan Octyl salicylate Octyl salicylate Felton Thickeners-Carbomer 940 Carbomer BF Goodrich Neutralizers – Citric acid Citric Acid H&R, Roche
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  • 41. These are an extremely attractive and elegant formulation type. Their main drawbacks lie in their potential irritancy where alcohol is part of the formula, and their relatively low SPF and water-resistant properties. Gels Non-aqueous system %w/w Phase A Octyl methoxycinnamte 7.5 Octyl salicylate 5.0 Menthyl anthranilate 3.5 Phenyl trimethicone 1.5 Dimethicone copolyol 3.0 Isopropyl myristate 5.0 Phase B Hydroxypropylcellulose 1.0 Ethanol 95% 73.5 • The gel structure is imparted by the cellulose which can also be added to a solution of all ingredients in the ethanol with stirring until gelled.
  • 42. They may be oil-in-water, water-in-oil or more complex in nature. Able to achieve the highest SPF of all formulation types because they deposit a uniform non-transparent film on the skin. They also have the ability to penetrate the skin's horny layer to some degree. The oil phase can contain: • Oil-soluble sunscreen materials. • Oil-soluble antioxidant vitamins, for example vitamin E. • Water-resistant agents, silicones, polymers. • Emollients, esters or oils such as mineral or vegetable oil. • Primary oil-soluble emulsifiers. Emulsions:
  • 43. • Secondary emulsifiers. • Lipid materials as skin conditioners or for skin feel. • Oil phase thickeners. The water phase can contain: • Water-soluble sunscreen agents. • Humectants, glycerol, sorbitol. • Primary and secondary water-soluble emulsifiers. • Water phase thickeners. • Neutralizing agents. Continue…
  • 44. Oil-in-water lotion used as the high SPF standard in the COLIPA SPF test method Phase A %w/w Lanolin 4.5 Cocoa Butter 2.0 Glyceryl monosterate 3.0 Stearic acid 2.0 Octyl dimethyl PABA 7.0 Oxybenzone 3.0 Phase B Deionized water 71.6 Sorbitol liquid 5.0 Triethanolamine 1.0 Methylparaben 0.3 Propylparaben 0.1 Phase C Benzyl alcohol 0.5
  • 45. Water-in-oil waterproof sun lotion (Courtesy of Haarmann and Reimer) Phase A Cetyl dimethione copolyol 2.00 Polyglyceryl-4- isostearate 1.00 Dioctylcyclohexane 17.00 Paraffin Oil 8.50 Phase B Deionized water 65.75 Phenylbenzimidazole sulfonic acid 3.00 Triethanolamine 0.35 1,2-propylene glycol 2.00 Preservative 0.40 • This lotion is inherently waterproof, aided by the w/o formulation. • The formula provides UVB protection only from the water- soluble sunscreen. Method:- • Phase B is adjusted to pH 7.5 with triethanolamine with the correct pH being critical. • It is then added cold to Phase A previously heated to 700C, and after cooling is homogenized with a colloid mixer to establish the emulsion.
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  • 47. • Protection Against UVB: the Sun Protection Factor • UVA protection of a sunscreen: • in vivo measurement of afforded protection with the persistent pigment darkening method • in vitro absorbance measurements • in vitro determination of the critical wavelength • in vitro determination of a UVA protection factor (UVAPF) The requirements differ slightly between different regulatory authorities. The FDA has proposed a two-step testing [in vivo persistent pigment darkening testing and in vitro the ratio of long-wavelength UVA absorbance (UVA I) to the total UVR absorbance (UVB + UVA)] . EVALUATION OF THE EFFICACY CLAIM – as per Regulatory Claims
  • 48. The Colipa (the European cosmetic, toiletry and perfumery association) has recently issued a detailed guideline on the in vitro determination of the UVAPF of sunscreen products. EU and FDA has proposed Colipa guidelines FDA has also published Guidance for Industry Labeling and Effectiveness Testing: Sunscreen Drug Products for Over The- Counter Human Use. FDA & EU guidelines
  • 49. Summary of Specific Labeling Requirements for OTC Sunscreen Drug Products Subject to the 2011 Sunscreen Final Rule – Proposed by FDA Labeling Section Labeling Required Principal Display Panel All sunscreen drug products must bear the statement of identity “sunscreen.” For sunscreen drug products that pass the Broad Spectrum Test in 21 CFR 201.327(j): “Broad Spectrum SPF [insert numerical value determined by the SPF Test in 21 CFR 201.327(i)]” This entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear as continuous text with no intervening text or graphics. The entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear in the same font style, size, and color on the same background color. For sunscreen drug products that do not pass the Broad Spectrum Test in 21 CFR 201.327(j): “SPF [insert numerical value determined by the SPF Test in 21 CFR 201.327(i)]” This entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear as continuous text with no intervening text or graphics. The entire statement, including the SPF value, must appear in the same font style, size, and color on the same background color. For sunscreen drug products that provide 40 or 80 minutes of water resistance according to the test in 21 CFR 201.327(i)(7): “Water Resistant ([insert length of time drug product is proven to be water resistant, either 40 minutes or 80 minutes, according to 21 CFR 201.327(i)(7)])” Uses For all sunscreen drug products: “helps prevent sunburn” For sunscreen drug products that are Broad Spectrum with SPF 15 or higher according to the tests in 21 CFR 201.327(i) and (j), use of the following additional statement is optional: “if used as directed with other sun protection measures (see Directions), decreases the risk of skin cancer and early skin aging caused by the sun”
  • 50. • A product is claimed to be “WR” if it retains the same category description after 40 minutes of water immersion (time periods separated by a 20-minute rest period without toweling). • It may be claimed “very WR” if this is the case after four immersion periods of 20 minutes each (80 minutes). • The claim “waterproof” is no longer allowed. Products carrying the claims WR or very WR may also claim to be “sweat resistant” because the FDA concluded that the immersion test is a more severe test than a sweating test. • It is now proposed that the time spent in water (40 or 80 minutes) would be added on the product label to ensure frequent reapplication. FDA Guideline for “WR”
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  • 52. • INDEX • Acne Vulgaris – Introduction • External Factors that contribute to Acne…. • Causes • Androgens & Acne • Signs and Symptoms • Types of Acne • Acne Treatment 52
  • 53. • Acne is one of the most common skin diseases, there are about 17,000,000 Americans affected by acne. • According to the data in US research, close to 100% of people between the ages of 12 to 17 have acne. After the age of 15, around 40% of adolescents have acne severe enough to require treatment by a physician. • Acne is a skin condition characterized by whiteheads, blackheads, and inflamed red pimples or "zits." • One of the most common skin diseases presenting to family physicians • Considerable psychological impact on the quality of life • No cure, but the disease can be controlled through medications.
  • 54. • Acne is a self-limited disorder primarily of teenagers & young adults. • Acne is a disease of pilosebaceous follicles. • 4 factors are involved: • Retention hyperkeratosis • Increased Sebum production • Propionbacterium acnes within the follicle • Inflammation
  • 55. External Factors that contribute to Acne…. • Oils, greases, dyes in hair products • Detergents, soaps, astringents • Occlusive clothing: turtlenecks • Environmental Factors: Humidity & Heavy exercise. • Psychological stress • Diet is controversial Acne vulgaris typically affects those areas of the body that have the greatest number of sebaceous glands: • the face neck • Chest • upper back • upper arms
  • 56.  In addition to the typical lesions of acne vulgaris, scarring and hyperpigmentation can also occur.  Hyperpigmentation is most common in patients with dark complexions  Certain drugs like steroids, testosterone, and estrogen can cause acne  High levels of Humidity and sweating Conti…
  • 57. Causes….. • Acne develops from the following four factors: • (1) follicular epidermal hyperproliferation with subsequent plugging of the follicle, • (2) excess sebum production, • (3) the presence and activity of the commensal bacteria Cutibacterium acnes (formerly Propionibacterium acnes) • (4) inflammation. • In addition, genetics is also a key factor in the pathophysiology of acne.
  • 58. Androgens & Acne Androgens (male hormones) are present in females as well as males, but in higher amounts in males. Androgens cause the sebaceous (oil) glands of the skin to produce more sebum (oil), excess androgens will cause excess sebum production. If excess production of sebum plugs the opening of the follicles, it may increase the amount of bacteria which cause inflammatory acne. Despite having normal level of androgen, if the sebaceous glands are over-sensitive to androgens, excess sebum is thus produced, acne results.
  • 59. • Blackheads (plugged with dark sebum) • Crusting of skin • Cysts • Inflamation around the skin • Puss • Scarring on skin • Whiteheads (pore closed~comedo) Signs and Symptoms
  • 60. Types of Acne Whitehead: a closed comedo is a sebaceous follicle plugged with sebum. Its appearance is that of skin- colored or slightly inflamed “bump” in the skin. Blackhead: a comedo is open. The surface of the plug in the follicle has blackish appearance.
  • 61. Papules Pustules Types of Acne Papules: a small, solid lesion slightly elevated above the surface of the skin. It is caused by localized cellular reaction to the process of acne. Pustules: a dome-shaped, fragile lesion containing pus that typically consists of mixture of white blood cells, dead skin cells and bacteria. Papules Pustules
  • 62. Nodules Cysts Types of Acne Nodule: is characterized by inflammation, extends into deeper layers of the skin and may cause tissue destruction that results in scarring. It may be very painful. Cyst: It may be severely inflamed, extends into deeper layers of the skin, may be very painful, and can result in scarring. Cysts
  • 65. Purposes of Acne Treatment • Decrease sebum production • Reduce P. acnes (bacteria) • Reduce keratinization • Eliminate inflammation A dermatologist may combine two or more treatment options to create effective therapy and prevent new lesions from forming.
  • 66. External keratolytics may reduce keratinization. Treatment such as: • Salicylic acid • Alpha hydroxy acids (AHA) • Benzoyl peroxide (cannot eliminate inflammation) • Retinoids Anti-inflammatory drugs to inhibit P. acnes (bacteria) Treatment for Mild Acne – Topical
  • 67. The Common rationale of some of the treatment method 1. Use anti-androgen (e.g. oral contraceptive pills) to regulate androgen, to prevent excess sebum production. This method is only suitable for women. 2. Use anti-biotic to curb the growth of bacteria. 3. Use retinoids, derivative of vitamin A (e.g. isotretinoin) to reduce sebum production and keratinization. Patients may experience side effects. Beside the above treatment methods, other non-medical treatment may be introduced, for example to keep the skin clean by using skincare products correctly. Treatment for Severe Acne
  • 68. • Use anti-biotic, for example tetracycline, erythromycin or co-trimoxazole etc. to curb the growth of bacteria and reduce inflammation. • Use with care and prolonged treatment may be necessary to achieve the desire results. Treatment for Severe Acne – Oral Anti-biotic
  • 69. • To reduce sebum production and help skin cells inside follicles to return to normal. Effective but takes 4-5 months before beginning to see an improvement. • Early use will cause dryness and shedding of skin, and even cracking around the mouth. • Might cause foetal abnormality, hence not suitable for pregnant women or women planning to have babies. • Studies show it might cause suicidal attempt. Physician follow-up is required. Treatment for Severe Acne – Oral Retinoids (isotretinoin)
  • 70. • Androgens stimulate sebum production. To tackle of root cause of acne, women should find ways to tackle androgens. • Oral contraceptives works by regulating the hormones (estrogen, progestogen and androgen), blocking the effect of androgen on the skin, and thus reducing sebum production. • It is effective in acne treatment and sebum control among women. Treatment for Severe Acne – Anti-androgen
  • 71. Formulation of Antiacne Cream with Chitosan and Docusate Sodium
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  • 75. Introduction • Skin care is the range of practices that support skin integrity, enhance its appearance and relieve skin conditions. • They can include nutrition, avoidance of excessive sun exposure and appropriate use of emollients. • Practices that enhance appearance include the use of cosmetics, botulinum, exfoliation, fillers, laser resurfacing, microdermabrasion, peels, retinol therapy. • Skin care is a routine daily procedure in many settings, such as skin that is either too dry or too moist, and prevention of dermatitis and prevention of skin injuries.
  • 76. What’s Your Skin Type? Normal Skin Type Combination Skin Type Dry Skin Type Oily Skin Type 76
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  • 84. Cleaning Your Face • Be Gentle • Washing your face • Use soft sponge to remove makeup • Use lukewarm water • Avoid strong soaps • Use hands to wash face • Rinse and pat dry • Don’t wash too often
  • 85. Work by providing a seal – keeps moisture from escaping Apply moisturizers immediately after showering Select best moisturizer for you • Depends on skin type • Age • Skin conditions Daytime use moisturizer with at least SPF 15 Moisturizing: Hydrate Your Skin
  • 86. • Eat a healthy diet • Exercise • Sleep well • Protect yourself from the sun • Avoid antibacterial or antimicrobial soaps • Wash skin fold areas more often • Avoid using talc powders • Calluses and nails Maintain a Healthy Lifestyle
  • 87. I. 1. Explain active UV filters. 2. UVA filters. 3. UVB filters 4. What is significance of avobenzone as UVA filter. II. 1. Pathophysiology of acne. 2. Cause of acne . 3. Short note on Acne Vulgaris. 4. Write a note on Oral Rotenoids. 5. What is significance of Androgen in acne ? Write a note on Anti-androgens. Questions
  • 88. 1. http://www.fda.gov 2. Hilda Butler, 10th Edition, Kluwer Academic Publishers. Handbook of CosmeticScienceand Technology, 3rdEdition, 3. http://www.aad.org/ 4. http://www.epa.gov 5. Dermatology Times Cleveland:Sep 2004. Vol. 25, Iss. 9, p. 1,19,23 (3 pp.) 6. U.S. News & World Report Washington:Jul 21, 2003. Vol. 135, Iss. 2, p. 51 7. Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products, Vol. 30 by Diana Draelos Zoe, Lauren A. Thaman-Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products 8. Andre Barel, Howard I. Maibach, Andre O. Barel-Handbook of Cosmetic Science and Technology-Informa Healthcare (2009) 9. Cosmetics – Formulation, Manufacturing and Quality Control, P.P. Sharma,4th edition, Vandana Publications Pvt.Ltd.,Delhi 10. Guidance for Industry Labeling and Effectiveness Testing: Sunscreen Drug Products for OverThe-Counter Human Use — Small Entity Compliance Guide 11. www.formulationscann.com Refrences
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