Cationic softeners cause more yellowing of cotton fabric than silicone or non-ionic softeners. Testing showed that as the concentration of cationic softeners increased from 5% to 20%, the yellowness index and b-value increased, indicating higher levels of yellowing. The bending length and absorbency time decreased with higher cationic softener concentration, showing increased softness and hydrophobicity. More analysis is needed to determine trends conclusively. The document studied the effects of different types and concentrations of softeners on the yellowing and properties of cotton fabric.
2. Hypothesis:
In LNJ Denim where I was working previous year, there was a huge problem of Shade defects
due to softeners. So I decide to couple my colour knowledge with my work experience and
design this experiment.
Here I divide my experiment in two parts-
1. To study the yellowing effect of different kinds of softeners on cotton fabric
2. To study the softening and yellowing effect of different cationic softener concentration on
cotton fabric, by measuring Bending length, absorbency time (Drop test), Whiteness index(CIE
WI) and Yellowing Index (YI E313).
Further Scope:
We can optimize the softening process by CCD (Central composite design)
technique by taking the various parameters like pH, Concentration, Temperature
etc.
3. AIM-1 • To study the yellowing effect of different kinds of
softeners on cotton fabric.
SOFTENING • MECHANISM
CAUSES OF
YELLOWNESS
INSTRUMENTAL
GENERAL
INFORMATION
RESULTS &
DISSCUSSION
• EFFECT ON YELLOWNESS
• EFFECT ON WHITENESS
INFERENCES
4. Aim-1:
• To study the yellowing effect of different kinds of softeners on cotton
fabric.
6. FABRIC SUBSTRATE
MECHANISMS OF SOFTENING:
Orientation and
bonding
It’s a surface
effect.
New surface of
Mol. Chains,
Provide Softening
Reduce inter
fibre friction
We touch the tail
of the molecule
Hydrophobic
tail
Cationic
softener
-ve zeta potential on
cotton surface
9. 1. FIBER AGEING:
Continuous exposure and photo oxidation causes yellowness increase
2. ENVIRONMENTAL POLLUTANTS
Yellowing by ozone -Earth surface Ozone oxidizes the Indigo dye into Isatin and Antranalic
acid, which are yellow in colour
Oxides of nitrogen-Nitrogen oxides react with the residues present on the surface of the
fabric and cause yellowness of Nylons
3. CHEMICAL ADDITIVES
Softeners
Optical brightening agent- Over usage, High heat or high humidity
CAUSES OF FABRIC YELLOWING:
10. YELLOWING DUE TO SOFTENERS
• Most commonly used softeners are the amine based (N-H) cationic
and silicone softeners
• Reacts with free Cl, and form chloramines (yellow in colour)
• These Amines oxidise at higher temperature to form oxides of nitrogen
(yellow in colour)
13. RECIPE & PROCEDURE
Sample Chemicals Concentration(%)
1 Cationic 10
2 Cationic 20
3 Non-ionic 10
4 Non-ionic 20
5 Silicon 10
6 Silicon 20
Weigh the samples
Prepare the softener
solutions with M:L =
1:40
Pad the samples by
padding mangle
Dry the samples at
105 ⁰C for 2 min.
Testing the treated and untreated samples at Spectrophotometer .
14. Sample name L* a* b* WI-CIE YI-E313 DL* Da* Db* DE*
Untreated 83.4 -0.11 0.46 60.61 0.89
Cationic 10% 83.61 -0.19 1.05 58.01 2.09 0.21 L -0.08 G 0.59 Y 0.63
Cationic 20% 83.05 -0.22 1.12 56.58 2.21 -0.35 D -0.11 G 0.66 Y 0.76
Non-ionic 10% 83.48 -0.14 0.67 59.68 1.32 0.07 L -0.02 G 0.21 Y 0.22
Non-ionic 20% 82.64 -0.11 0.49 58.99 0.96 -0.76 D 0 0.03Y 0.77
Silicon 10% 83.69 -0.13 0.82 59.31 1.65 0.29 L -0.02 G 0.42 Y 0.44
Silicon 20% 83.27 -0.14 0.88 58.21 1.78 -0.13 D -0.02 G 0.42 Y 0.44
Experimental results:
20. INFERENCES:
• Among three kinds of softeners, cationic softener is showing highest
yellowness and least whiteness- Because it’s the only one which is
having amine groups.
• On increasing concentration of softener yellowness is increasing in
cationic, and silicon softeners but there is no specific trend for non-
ionic softener.
• We can’t infer the trend from these three values, So more number of
experimental analysis is required.
• Because in cationic softeners quaternary ammonium group may
present, hence it’s imparting yellowness to cotton fabric.
21. AIM-2
• To study the softening and yellowing effect of
different cationic softener concentration on
cotton fabric.
CATIONIC
SOFTENER
RECIPE AND
PROCEDURE
RESULT AND
DISSCUSSION
• EFFECT ON BENDING LENGTH
• EFFECT ON YELLOWNESS
• EFFECT ON ABSORBENCY
INFERENCES
22. AIM-2
To study the softening and yellowing effect of different cationic softener
concentration on cotton fabric, by measuring Bending length, absorbency time
(Drop test), Whiteness index(CIE WI) and Yellowing Index (YI E313).
23. CATIONIC SOFTENER
Defined as materials which dissolve or disperse in water, concentrate and orient
at interfaces and ionize in such a way that the cation includes a hydrocarbon
chain, which is hydrophobic and contains from 8 to 25 carbon atoms.
Shows the best soft handle.
Have affinity to almost all fibres and are usually applied by the exhaust method
Only problem is incompatibility with anionic auxiliaries (optical brighteners,
dyeing auxiliaries) as well as their tendency to yellow in comparison with non-
ionic products.
Cationic softeners are mainly used for coloured textile substrates .
24.
25. Chemicals Recipe 1 Recipe 2 Recipe 3 Recipe 4
Cationic softener
(%)
5 10 15 20
Following tests are done -
• Bending length
• Absorbency
• CIE L a b testing
With change in softener concentration
• Softener Concentration (%) - 5, 10, 15, 20
• M:L - 1:40
• Process- Pad - Dry
RECIPE & PROCEDURE
27. 2.75 2.65 2.55
2.35
2.23
2.72 2.3 2.25 2.24 2.1
0
0.5
1
1.5
2
2.5
3
Control 5 10 15 20
BendingLength(cm)
Softener Concentration (%)
Bending length Vs softener conc.
Warp Weft
Inference#1
• On increasing the softener concentration bending length decreases.
Softness
inter fibre friction
That’s why fibre bends more easily.
Inference#2
• Warp-way bending length > Weft-way bending length .
May be because
• generally EPI >PPI
• On warp we applied
size during weaving so
residual starch is giving
the higher bending
length.
For Weftway bending length
For Warpway bending length
28. EFFECT ON ABSORBENCY
Soften
er
Conc.
(%)
Absorbency (..m
..sec)
5 4 min
10 5min 30 sec
15 5 min 55 sec
20 9 min
240
330
355
540
0
100
200
300
400
500
600
5 10 15 20
ABSORBENCYTIME(SEC)
SOFTENER CONC.(%)
Abosrbancy time (sec)
Abosrbancy (sec)
On adding cationic softener absorbency reduces drastically-
“Because by definition a cationic softener includes a hydrocarbon chain,
which is hydrophobic and contains from 8 to 25 carbon atoms.”
For Untreated= 2-3 sec
33. Conclusion:
Among all type of softeners cationic softeners are showing the more yellowing for cotton
fabric.
Higher the concentration of cationic softener, more will be the –
• Yellowing effect
• Softening effect
• And lesser absorbency.
For minimizing the yellowness of cotton we will prefer lesser concentration of softener.
34. REFERENCES:
• Handbook of fiber science and technology. Vol. II; Functional finishes: Part B. Menachem Lewin und
Stephen B. Sello.
• GUPTA, D. "Softening treatments for technical textiles." Advances in the Dyeing and Finishing of Technical
Textiles (2013): 154.
• Boethling, R. S., Elizabeth Sommer, and David DiFiore. "Designing small molecules for
biodegradability." Chemical reviews 107, no. 6 (2007): 2207-2227.
• Bakhtyar, S.; Nguyen, K.; Rabke, S.; Gagnon, M. M. Closed Bottle Biodegradation Test for Drilling Fluids.
Presented at the 27th Annual Meeting, Society of Environmental Toxicology and Chemistry (SETAC) North
America, Montreal, Canada, 5-9 Nov, 2006.
• Ajayi, Joseph O. "Fabric smoothness, friction, and handle." Textile research journal 62, no. 1 (1992): 52-59.
• Ali, S. I., and Shahida Begum. "Fabric softeners and softness perception."Ergonomics 37, no. 5 (1994): 801-
806.
• Czech, A. M., J. Pavlenyi, and A. J. Sabia. "Modified Silicone Softeners for Fluorocarbon Soil Release
Treatments." Textile Chemist & Colorist 29, no. 9 (1997).
• Almeida, Luís de, and Artur Cavaco Paulo. "Softening of cotton by enzymatic hydrolysis." (1993).
Main effects on the surface of the fibers.
Orient themselves toward the fiber creating a new surface consisting of molecular chains that provide the characteristic softening and lubricity.
Small softener molecules penetrate the fiber and provide plasticization of fiber forming polymer
physical arrangement of the usual softener molecules on the fiber surface.
It depends on the ionic nature of the softener molecule
And the relative hydrophobicity of the fibre surface.
Cationic softeners effect:
Orient themselves with their positively charged ends toward
The partially negatively charged fibre (zeta potential),
creating a new surface of hydrophobic
Carbon chains that provide the characteristic excellent softening and lubricity seen
With cationic softeners.
Anionic softeners effect:
Orient themselves with their negatively charged ends
Repelled away from the negatively charged fibre surface.
This leads to higher hydrophobicity,
but less softening than with cationic softeners
Non-ionic softeners effect:
The orientation of non-ionic softeners depends on the
nature of the fiber surface,
with the hydrophilic portion of the softener being attracted to
Hydrophilic surfaces
and the hydrophobic portion being attracted to
Hydrophobic surfaces.
Silicones are macromolecules comprised of a polymer backbone of alternating Silicon and Oxygen atoms with organic groups attached to silicon. Silicone’s softening capability comes from the siloxane backbone’s flexibility and its freedom of rotation along the Si-O bonds.
It provides:
very high softness,
special unique hand,
high lubricity,
good sewability,
Elastic resilience, crease recovery, abrasion resistance and tear strength.
It shows:
good temperature stability
and durability, with a high degree of permanence
for those products that form cross-linked films
and a range of properties from hydrophobic to hydrophilic
In textile finishing, silicones are also used as
water repellents,
elastomeric finishes,
coatings
And as defamers
1. Fiber ageing The continuous exposure of sunlight leads to photo degradation of the textile fibers in particular natural fibers like cotton, viscose, linen etc. In the photo degradation process there is breakage of bond occurs within the polymeric structure of the fibers and leads to strength and color loss etc.. Usually natural fibers like cotton by its origin it is slight yellowish in color. On further photo oxidation it yellowness increase. Manmade fibers like nylon, spandex and polyester are more prone to yellowing. We can avoid the fiber ageing by proper storing of fibers.
Avoid exposure to direct sunlight and high humidity.
2. Environmental pollutantsYellowing issues due to the atmospheric pollutants play a vital role. The various environmental pollutants are ozone, NOX, SOX etc.. 2.1 Yellowing by ozone Ozone is a tri-atomic molecule of oxygen. It is a strong oxidizing agent. 2.2 Oxides of nitrogen Oxides of nitrogen are one of the main causes of yellowing. In the combustion process when the temperature of air exceeds 538˚C, nitrogen and oxygen combine to form nitrogen oxide. These nitrogen oxides are released from automobiles, trucks and industrial equipments. These nitrogen oxides react with the residues present on the surface of the fabric. At higher concentration these oxides of nitrogen directly affect the nylon fiber. Ware houses and factories should be properly ventilated to avoid the accumulation of oxides of nitrogen.
Avoid use of diesel trucks instead use electrical trucks in ware houses and storage areas.
3. Chemical additives By improper use of chemical additives during processing and finishing like softeners, OBA and salts leads to yellowing. a. Softener Softeners are used to impart soft handle to the fabric. Among softeners most commonly used is the cationic and silicone softeners. These are amine based softeners (N-H) and reacts with free chlorine present in the commercial detergents containing chlorine bleaches and also with municipal water containing chlorine as a disinfectant. The chlorine reacts with these amines to form chloramines (yellow in color). So it imparts yellow color to textile garments. In addition these amines undergo oxidation process at temperature over 140˚C to form oxides of nitrogen. These oxides are yellow in color at lower concentrations. Use softeners with low amine value.
Wash with detergents containing non chlorine bleaches and enzymes.
b. Optical Brightening Agents OBA is used to enhance the whiteness of the fabric. The unsaturated structure of OBA absorbs uv light and violet light at 340-370nm and it re-emits the absorbed uv light (short wavelength) in to visible blue light (longer wavelength) at 420-470nm. The emitted blue light changes the hue of the yellowness in the fabric to whiter. These unsaturations are very sensitive to sunlight and loss its ability to work & leads to yellowing OBA used for cellulosic fibers not stable at low pH so it leads to yellowing.
Unfavorable conditions like excessive heat and high humidity leads to oxidation of OBA and it loses its whiteness.
Over usage of OBA beyond the saturation limits leads to yellowing and it can be controlled by stripping.
Proper selection of OBA to avoid ionic interactions of anionic brightener with cationic finishes leads to deterioration of brightener.
5. Conclusion From the above study it can be concluded that yellowing of textiles is mainly due to fiber ageing, atmospheric pollutants, chemical additives and storage contaminants. The below precautionary measures should be taken at each stage of the garment production until it reaches the final customer. pH of the garments should be slightly acidic to neutral.
Avoid storing in place contain atmospheric pollutants like NOX and SOX.
Avoid use of poly bags containing BHT.
Proper selection and usage of OBA.
Whiteness Index-CIE
CIE colorimetry committee published formula in 1986
Types of softners:
Nonionic: no charge
slightily cationic (pseudo cationic): positive cationic at acid pH's very positive
Quatenary: positive no matter of pH
Amphoteric: dependent on pH slightly negatlve to slightly posltive
anlonic: negative
Cationic softeners: Cationic softeners show the best soft handle and are therefore used for household articles as well as for industrial articles. They have affinity to almost all fibres and are usually applied by the exhaust method (Figure 5). The only problem is the incompatibility with anionic auxiliaries (optical brighteners, dyeing auxiliaries) as well as their tendency to yellow in comparison with non-ionic products. Cationic softeners are mainly used for coloured textile substrates .
Loading of the fibre and the softener