AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gel ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture and soft-focus (light diffraction) properties and to adsorb skin oils and perspiration. These three studies quantify the advantages of Solesphere gels versus petrochemical-based microspherical materials in prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations. Texture and soft-focus effects are compared, and results show that Solesphere H-121 is the most effective means to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects across many oil formulations.

1. AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc.
Your Global Source for Fine Silica Gels
Case Studies: Solesphere™ vs.
Other Microspheres for the
Personal Care Market
October 2013

2. Introduction and Background
AGC Chemicals is leading producer of fine silica gels for use as
ingredients in cosmetics and personal care products. Its
Solesphere™ products are widely used to provide smooth texture
and soft-focus, or light diffraction properties. Also, to adsorb skin
oils and perspiration.
These three (3) studies demonstrate this in a quantitative way.
Detailed, prototypical, oil-in-water (O/W) formulations are used.
Comparison of texture and soft-focus effects, relative to other
petrochemical based micro-spherical materials, is made.
Summary of results are that, Solesphere™ H-121 is most effective
to impart smooth textures and soft-focus effects, across many oil
formulations and relative to other petrochemical based microspherical materials.

3. Three Studies Completed
AGC micro-spherical silica: Solesphere™H-121
1. Oil-in-water
(O/W) skin care formulations:
A. Measure of smoothness of application
B. Measure of soft focus: matte effect
2. Comparison to other petrochemical beads
3. Using Silicone elastomer with Solesphere™ H-121

4. STUDY #1
Solesphere™ H-121
Performance in Oil in Water
(O/W) Skin Care Formulations

5. Study #1: O/W Sample Formulation
COMPONENT
Water
(wt-%)
Up to 100
5.0
10.0
Phenoxy ethanol
0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10
1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol
1.5
Glyceryl Stearate
1.0
Stearic acid
0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl
A: Main
aqueous
phase
0.5
Hydrogenated lecithin
B
Pypus cydonia seeds extract
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed
A
Order of Addition/
Process Sequence
0.8
Mineral oil 70cs
B: Oil
phase
emulsion
5.0 ~ 12.5
Dimethicone(100cs)
Glycerin
C
D
0.3
3.0
Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5%
0.5
C: Neutralization
0 ~ 3.0
Cooling 40°C
6.0
D: Powder
Solesphere™, H-121
Propanediol
Cooling 30°C

6. Evaluation of Properties:
O/W Skincare Formulations
• Properties of H-121, by content of silica, in O/W
skincare formulation:
Oil type: Mineral oil(70cs) = 10%
Powder： H-121 silica = 0% Control, 1%, 2%, and 3%
Evaluation: A. Smooth Texture
B. Degree of Soft Focus
• Properties of H-121, by content of oil
Oil type： Mineral(70cs) = 5%, 7.5%, 10%, 12.5%
Powder: H-121 silica = 3%
Evaluation A. Smooth Texture
B. Degree of Soft Focus

7. Bad
Smooth Texture
Good
Average Frictional Coefficient (MIU）
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation:
Smooth Texture
0.25
0.23
0.21
0.19
0.17
0.15
0
1
2
Content of H-121, %
3

8. Good
Soft focus
Bad
Diffuse Transmittance／Total Light Transmittance×100
H-121 O/W Property Evaluation:
Soft Focus
H-121 by content
40
3%
36
2%
32
1%
28
24
20
Control
6
6.5
7
7.5
Glossiness
Matte Gloss
8

9. Bad
Smooth Texture
Good
Average Frictional Coefficient (MIU)
H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation:
Smooth Texture
0.29
0.27
0.25
0.23
H-121
0.21
Control
0.19
0.17
0.15
4
6
8
10
12
Mineral Oil Content (%)
14

10. H-121 By Oil Content Property Evaluation:
Soft Focus
Soft focus
Bad
By oil content %
Diffuse Transmittance／Total Light Transmittance×100
Good
50
45
12.5%
7.5%
40
5%
10%
H-121
35
Control
30
5% 7.5%
25
10%
12.5%
8
9
20
4
5
6
7
Glossiness
Matte
Gloss
10

11. Summary: Solesphere H-121 O/W Study #1
• Data show for skincare and foundations:
– Improves smooth texture properties by 20% and more
– Improves soft focus by approximately 30%
– Long lasting effect by absorbing sebum and perspiration

12. STUDY #2
Solesphere™ H-121
Performance Comparison to
Other Petrochemical-based
Microspheres

13. Evaluation of Properties:
Petrochemical-Based Microspheres
• Oil Content, 10% of either:
•
•
a) Triethyl hexanonin (refractive index (R.I.) 1.445)
b) Mineral oil 70cs (R.I. 1.4624)
c) Phenyl trimethicone (R.I.1.498)
Powder Content, 3% of either:
a) Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica
b) Polymethylmethacrylate (PMMA) (7µm)
c) Silicone Resin (5µm)
d) Nylon-12 (10µm)
Evaluation Items:
a) Smooth Texture
b) Degree of Soft Focus

14. Study #2: Sample Formulation
COMPONENT
Water
(wt-%)
Order of Addition/
Process Sequence
Up to 100
A: Main
aqueous
phase
0.5
0.2
Muriatic acid poly-glycerin-10
1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol
1.5
Glyceryl Stearate
1.0
Stearic acid
0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl
0.8
Oil phase
10.0
Dimethicone(100cs)
0.3
Glycerin
D
10.0
Hydrogenated lecithin
C
5.0
Phenoxy ethanol
B
Pypus cydonia seeds extract
Carboxyl Vinyl Polymer 2% dispersed
A
3.0
Sodium hydroxide 5% water solution 5%
0.5
C: Neutralization
Powder
3.0
Cooling 40°C
Propanediol
6.0
D: Powder
B: Oil
phase
emulsion
Cooling 30°C

15. H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres:
Smooth Texture
Smooth Texture
Average Friction coefficient (MIU)
Bad
0.26
0.24
0.22
0.20
0.18
0.16
0.14
0.12
Control
PMMA
(7µm)
Nylon-12
(10µm)
Silicone resin
(5µm)
Good
Solesphere™
H-121
0.10
Mineral Oil (70cs)
Triethyl hexanonin
Phenyltrimethicone

16. H-121 Property Evaluation Other Microspheres:
Soft Focus
Good 1.6
1.5
1.4
H-121/W
Soft focus
PMMA
1.3
Haze Ratio
PMMA
H-121
H-121
PMMA
1.2
1.1
Silicone Resin
1
0.9
Nylon 12
Nylon 12
Nylon 12
Silicone Resin
Silicone Resin
0.8
Bad
0.6
0.7
0.8
0.9
1
1.1
Gloss Ratio
Matte
Mineral Oil (70cs)
Gloss
Phenyltrimethicone
Triethylhexanonin

17. Summary: Solesphere™H-121 Other Microspheres Study #2
• Solesphere™ H-121 silica is a better component
for improving smooth texture and soft focus
effect compared to other petrochemical-based
microspheres.
• When combined with each oil, Nylon powder is
easily aggregated in each oil.
– More effective to combine Nylon and H-121
– Improves slippery nature of Nylon

18. STUDY #3
Solesphere™ H-121
Fine Silica with Silicone
Elastomer

19. Evaluation of Properties: H-121 with Silicone Elastomer
Silicone Elastomer: General term for paste and
a cross-linked silicate polymer
Can be used to improve:
• Soft touch feel
• Matte effect
Evaluation of Texture:
• Friction variation
• Smooth texture
• Soft focus effect

20. Study #3: Sample Formulation
COMPONENT
Water
(wt-%)
5.0
10.0
10.0
0.5
0.5
0.2
0.2
Muriatic acid poly glyceril-10
1.0
1.0
Ceteallyl alcohol
1.5
1.5
Glycerol Stearate
1.0
1.0
Stearic acid
0.5
0.5
Palmitic acid cetyl
0.8
0.8
(Dimethicone/Vinyl dimethicone) cross-polymer,
Dimethicone
3.0
3.0
Dicapric acid neopentyl alcohol
5.0
5.0
Glycerin
D
5.0
Hydrogenated lecithin
C
Pyrus Cydonia seed extract 2% dispersed liquid
Phenoxyethanol
B
Up to 100
Carboxyl Vinyl polymer 2% dispersed liquid
A
Up to 100
3.0
3.0
Sodium Hydroxide 5% water solution Na 5%
0.5
0.5
Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica
3.0
ｰｰｰ
Propandiol
6.0
6.0

21. Friction ratio(%)
Evaluation of Textural Properties:
Friction Change"
Friction change (variation) of cream
100
95
90
85
80
75
70
65
60
55
50
Increase friction by
evaporating volatile oils
and water.
1
2
3
4 5
6 7
Friction times
8
9
10
H-121
Control
Reduce friction of silicone elastomer when drying on
skin by combining Solesphere™ H-121, fine silica
(# of application strokes)

22. Bad
Smooth Texture
Good
Average Frictional coefficient（MIU)
Evaluation of Textural Properties:
Smooth Texture
0.25
0.24
0.23
0.22
0.21
0.2
Control
H-121

23. Evaluation of Textural Properties:
Soft Focus
Good
50
Soft focus
45
40
H-121
35
Control
30
25
Bad
3
3.5
4
4.5
Glossiness
Matte
Gloss
5

24. Summary: Solesphere™H-121 with
Silicone Elastomer Study #3
By combining silicone elastomer with
Solesphere™ H-121, both smooth and soft
touchtextures are improved:
– H-121: smooth texture
– Silicone elastomer: soft touch texture

25. In Conclusion
Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica is effective to improve:
• Smooth texture
• Soft focus
• Long-lasting effect
Additionally, Solesphere™ H-121 fine silica absorbs
sebum and perspiration.

26. AGC Chemicals Americas, Inc."
For
More
Informa,on
www.agcchem.com
800-­‐424-­‐7833
@AGCChem_Amer
on
Twi@er