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Part I: Lasts Introduction
The art of lasts: combining great fit with appealing cosmetics based on authentic feet structure. Simple Truth to lasts: If the last is bad, the shoe/fit is bad. Development Truth:  Lasts are first Commercialization Truth:  if the model is wrong, extremes will also be wrong, but amplified. Production Truth:  If the lasts are not well made, the faulty shoe rate is much higher than norm
 
4 ways to develop a last ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
New Last Design ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],2. Last Girth Design Ball Girth (趾围)  Waist Girth (腰围) Instep Girth (背围)  Back Length ( 兜跟围) Cuboids Girth  ( 后跟围) Toe Thickness (楦头头厚) 3. Last Toe Spring and Heel Height Toe Spring (前翘)  Heel Height (后翘) 4. Last Stick Length and Back Curve Back Curve  后踵曲线)    Crest Line (楦头棱线) Stick Length  ( 楦全长 )
Traditional /Proper Measurement of Last ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Last Bottom
Measurement of Ball ,  Waist  and  Instep Girth ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Instep Girth  ( 背围 ) Waist Girth  ( 腰围 ) NIPPLE Ball Girth  ( 趾围 ) 50.8mm 25.4mm
 
Back Length ,[object Object],[object Object],Back Length
[object Object],[object Object],Cuboids Girth
Last and Foot  ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],2-10mm 22mm 22+4+1mm
Toe spring and Heel height ,[object Object],HEEL HEIGHT GAUGE( 后翘测量尺 ) HEEL HEIGHT MEASUREMENT( 后翘测量处 ) TREAD POINT( 着地点 ) TOE SPRING MEASUREMENT ( 前翘测量处 )
鞋类楦头翘度表  (Toe Spring Specification List)    Unit (m/m) P.S: Based on sample size standard (M9)  is 19mm for the Cayman project. 14 17 18 17 15 16 18 16 W'S 6# 12 13 16 15 14 14 13 13 Y'S 13# 13 16 18 18 15 14 14 11 B'S 4# 14 18 21 20 17 16 14 17 M'S 8# 包子鞋 凉鞋 工作鞋 登山鞋 运动鞋 便鞋 皮鞋 半拖鞋 Size Moca Sandal Work Hiking Sport Casual Dress Cayman Shoes Type
Stick Length ,[object Object],[object Object]
Back Curve ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],8mm 66mm 6mm 26mm
Widths of Lasts US/UK Men’s: D  =  Middle B  =  Narrow EE  =  Wide US/UK Women’s: B  =  Middle A  =  Narrow C  =  Wide A B C D E EE EEE EEEE W WW One width
Part II: Lasts Grading & Model sizes
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Last Grading  X Y
Last Grading Principles 3 grading systems in the world: UK/US system (X=8.46mm; Girth=6.35mm) France system (X=6.66mm; Girth=5.0mm) Japan system (X=10mm;  Girth=7.5mm) Crocs : UK/US system X Y
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Last Grading 1
Last Grading 2 ,[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Last Grading Standard
[object Object]
[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],[object Object],Standards Of Last
 
Clog lasts Measurements (follow Crocs) No sock 14 12   55 191 - 194 182 - 185 188-191 64 - 66 173 - 175 10# Children's  4                     Children's  No sock 14 12   62 210 - 213 201 - 204 207-210 73 - 75 207 - 209 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's  No sock 16 14   70 238 - 241 229 - 232 235 - 238 84 - 86 245 - 247 7# Womens 2                       W's No sock 18 16   76 260 - 263 251 - 254 257 - 260 99 - 101 275 - 277 9# Mens 1                     M'S  Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Bottom Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Sneaker lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3     181-185 154-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 126-128 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E 3 10 16 254-259 189-192 179-181 176-178 66-68 176-178 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 4 10 16 292-297 208-211 201-203 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 4 12 18 336-342 231-234 223-226 220-223 78-80 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 12 18 381-387 260-264 251-254 248-251 92-94 276-278 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Flip-Flop lasts Measurements  ( Thong Sandal) No sock     30 145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E No sock 10 6 38 179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4                     Children's D No sock 10 6 41 201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D No sock 10 6 46 219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2                     W's B No sock 10 6 52 259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Toe Split Length (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No. Note: Slide Sandal  Last Measurements  Same as Flip Bottom Length & Width Plus 1/8 (3mm) on Ball, Waist & Instep Toe Spring  should be 8mm.  Slide last could be applied to thong construction. But Flip cannot unless use above add-0n.
Sandal lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock       145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E No sock 10 12   179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4                     Children's D No sock 10 14   201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D No sock 12 16   219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2                     W's B No sock 12 17   259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Shell/ Pack boots lasts Measurements  ( Round Toe) 4 13 16 269-273 193-195 188-190 185-187 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 15 16 314-319 217-220 211-213 208-210 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 16 18 344-350 240-244 234-237 231-234 86-88 246-248 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 16 21 403-410 273-278 263-267 260-264 96-98 278-280 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Work shoes lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 4 13 16   189-191 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 15 16   208-211 202-204 200-202 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 16 18   238-242 233-236 230-233 84-86 246-248 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 16 21   268-273 261-265 258-262 94-96 278-280 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Hiker lasts Measurements  ( Round Toe) 3 12 14   189-192 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 14 14   208-211 199-201 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 15 17   231-235 223-226 220-223 82-84 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 15 20   264-269 253-257 250-254 93-95 276-278 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm)  Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Casual lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3       153-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 125-127 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E 3 8 11   187-190 178-180 175-177 65-67 175-177 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 3 9 12   206-209 199-202 194-197 74-76 209-211 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 3 11 14   229-233 221-224 218-221 81-83 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 3 12 15   258-263 248-252 245-249 91-93 275-277 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
W's Dress lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock 3 inch 9 138 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's   No sock 2 inch 8 146 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's   No sock 1 inch 7 156 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's                         W's B Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Tread point (fm heel bottom) (mm) Back Length/Short Heel m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
Good Luck!

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Last instruction final completion teddy

  • 1. Part I: Lasts Introduction
  • 2. The art of lasts: combining great fit with appealing cosmetics based on authentic feet structure. Simple Truth to lasts: If the last is bad, the shoe/fit is bad. Development Truth: Lasts are first Commercialization Truth: if the model is wrong, extremes will also be wrong, but amplified. Production Truth: If the lasts are not well made, the faulty shoe rate is much higher than norm
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  • 14. 鞋类楦头翘度表 (Toe Spring Specification List)    Unit (m/m) P.S: Based on sample size standard (M9) is 19mm for the Cayman project. 14 17 18 17 15 16 18 16 W'S 6# 12 13 16 15 14 14 13 13 Y'S 13# 13 16 18 18 15 14 14 11 B'S 4# 14 18 21 20 17 16 14 17 M'S 8# 包子鞋 凉鞋 工作鞋 登山鞋 运动鞋 便鞋 皮鞋 半拖鞋 Size Moca Sandal Work Hiking Sport Casual Dress Cayman Shoes Type
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  • 17. Widths of Lasts US/UK Men’s: D = Middle B = Narrow EE = Wide US/UK Women’s: B = Middle A = Narrow C = Wide A B C D E EE EEE EEEE W WW One width
  • 18. Part II: Lasts Grading & Model sizes
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  • 20. Last Grading Principles 3 grading systems in the world: UK/US system (X=8.46mm; Girth=6.35mm) France system (X=6.66mm; Girth=5.0mm) Japan system (X=10mm; Girth=7.5mm) Crocs : UK/US system X Y
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  • 27. Clog lasts Measurements (follow Crocs) No sock 14 12   55 191 - 194 182 - 185 188-191 64 - 66 173 - 175 10# Children's 4                     Children's No sock 14 12   62 210 - 213 201 - 204 207-210 73 - 75 207 - 209 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's No sock 16 14   70 238 - 241 229 - 232 235 - 238 84 - 86 245 - 247 7# Womens 2                       W's No sock 18 16   76 260 - 263 251 - 254 257 - 260 99 - 101 275 - 277 9# Mens 1                     M'S Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Bottom Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 28. Sneaker lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3     181-185 154-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 126-128 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E 3 10 16 254-259 189-192 179-181 176-178 66-68 176-178 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 4 10 16 292-297 208-211 201-203 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 4 12 18 336-342 231-234 223-226 220-223 78-80 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 12 18 381-387 260-264 251-254 248-251 92-94 276-278 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 29. Flip-Flop lasts Measurements ( Thong Sandal) No sock     30 145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E No sock 10 6 38 179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4                     Children's D No sock 10 6 41 201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D No sock 10 6 46 219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2                     W's B No sock 10 6 52 259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Toe Split Length (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No. Note: Slide Sandal Last Measurements Same as Flip Bottom Length & Width Plus 1/8 (3mm) on Ball, Waist & Instep Toe Spring should be 8mm. Slide last could be applied to thong construction. But Flip cannot unless use above add-0n.
  • 30. Sandal lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock       145-148 141-123 138-140 56-58 120-122 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E No sock 10 12   179-182 173-175 170-172 64-66 172-174 10# Children's 4                     Children's D No sock 10 14   201-204 193-195 190-192 73-75 205-207 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D No sock 12 16   219-222 212-214 208-210 76-78 240-242 7# Womens 2                     W's B No sock 12 17   259-264 243-247 241-244 90-92 273-275 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 31. Shell/ Pack boots lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 4 13 16 269-273 193-195 188-190 185-187 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 15 16 314-319 217-220 211-213 208-210 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 16 18 344-350 240-244 234-237 231-234 86-88 246-248 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 16 21 403-410 273-278 263-267 260-264 96-98 278-280 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 32. Work shoes lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 4 13 16   189-191 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 15 16   208-211 202-204 200-202 76-78 211-213 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 16 18   238-242 233-236 230-233 84-86 246-248 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 16 21   268-273 261-265 258-262 94-96 278-280 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 33. Hiker lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3 12 14   189-192 180-182 177-179 68-70 177-179 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 5 14 14   208-211 199-201 196-198 75-77 210-212 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 5 15 17   231-235 223-226 220-223 82-84 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 5 15 20   264-269 253-257 250-254 93-95 276-278 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel (m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 34. Casual lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) 3       153-156 150-152 147-149 58-60 125-127 4# Infant's 5                     Infants D-E 3 8 11   187-190 178-180 175-177 65-67 175-177 10# Children's 4                     Children's D 3 9 12   206-209 199-202 194-197 74-76 209-211 1# Junior's 3                     Junior's D 3 11 14   229-233 221-224 218-221 81-83 244-246 7# Womens 2                     W's B 3 12 15   258-263 248-252 245-249 91-93 275-277 9# Mens 1                     M'S D Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Back Length/Short Heel(m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.
  • 35. W's Dress lasts Measurements ( Round Toe) No sock 3 inch 9 138 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's   No sock 2 inch 8 146 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's   No sock 1 inch 7 156 338-342 221-223 213-215 210-211 74-76 240-247 7# W's                         W's B Insole Thickness (mm) Heel Height (mm) Toe Spring (mm) Tread point (fm heel bottom) (mm) Back Length/Short Heel m/m) Instep Girth (m/m) Waist Girth (m/m) Ball Girth (m/m) Ball Width (mm) Bottom Length (m/m) Size Gender No.

Editor's Notes

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