Industrial Attachment of Beximco textiles limited (btl)

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INDUSTRIAL TRAINING
Course Code: Tex -4036
INDUSTRIAL ATTACHMENT
Beximco Textiles limited (BTL)

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Chapter I
Project Description

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BEXIMCO TEXTILES LTD (BTL) AT A GLANCE
Beximco Textiles limited (BTL)
1. Name of the project :Beximco Textiles limited (BKL.)
2. Project proponent :Beximco group of companies
3. Location :Sarabo, Kashimpur, Gazipur.
About 25 kms north of Dhaka city and 10 kms
from Savar.
4 Address :
Factory & head Office:
Beximco Industrial Park,
Saraboo,Kashimpur, Gazipur, Bangladesh.
5. Board of directors :
A.S.F. Rahman, Chairman& Managing Director.
Salman F Rahman, vice – Chairman.
7. Communication :The project is easily accessible by road.
8. Product name :Woven yarn dyed ,solid dyed and shabrey , bleached
fabric.
9. Product Mix :
A) Gray fabric:
1. Solid dyed
2. yarn dyed.
a. Stripe.
b. Check.
3. Shambrey fabric.
4. Canvas.
B) Design.
a. In Tappet loom.
i. Plain.
ii. Twill.
iii. Sateen.
iv. Some combination weave which are posible in tappet.
v. Oxford. (Warp rib and weft rib).
vi. Queen’s Oxford.
vii. Matt.
b. In Dobby loom:
i. Various types of weave.

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ii. Diamond.
iii. Diaper.
iv. Herring bone.
v. Honey comb.
vi. The design which are possible in 16 heald frames.
10. Annual production capacity : 3,65,00,000 per year.
11. Factory area :Approx. 30acres.
12. Type of the factory :Horizontally integrated.
13. No. of employees :Approx. 300.
14. Project cost :Approx. 17000 million taka
15. Different Departments :
a) Adminstration.
b) Human Resource and Develoment
Dept.
c) Weaving.
d) Woven Dyeing
e) Woven finishing.
f) Spinning.
g) Knitting Dept
h) Knit dyeing Dept.
i) Yarn dyeing Dept.
j) Woven Garments Dept.
k) Knit Garments Dept.
l) Denim weaving.
m) Denim finishing.
n) Garments washing plant.
o) Planning Dept.
p) Utility Dept.
q) Research & development Dept.
r) Product development.
s) Design Studio.
Site Location:
Location description: Beximco Industrial park is near about 1 kilometre from
Chakraborti Bus stop. Chakra borti bus stop is in the way of Dhaka Tangail High way.
There are two easy way to go from Dhaka.
1. Motijheel → Sat rasta → Mohakhali → Uttara→ Abdullahpur→ Ashulia
→ Bipile → DEPZ → Chakraborti → Beximco Industrial Park.
2. Motijheel → Farmgate→ Mirpur Road → Gabtoli → Savar → Nobinagar
→ Bipile → DEPZ → Chakraborti → Beximco Industrial Park.

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Location diagram is not to scale. It is only a scematic diagram.
DEPZ
DEPZ
Bipile
Nobinagar
Chakraborti
Beximco
Industrial
Park
Abdullahpur
Savar Ashulia
College of
Textile
Technology
National Assembly
MirpurRoad
Farmgate
J. U.
Asad gate
Mirpur
Gabtoli
Tongi
Uttara
New Air port
Old Air port
Prime
Minister’s
House DhakaMymensingRoad
Mohakhali
Sat Rasta

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Transport:
For the Beximco employee there are 7 large bus to transport. Bus’s are Air
conditioned and comfortable.
These bus’s are up and down from beximco industrial park to Dhaka
metropolitan city to 7 Route.
Without these bus’s there are some micro bus’s to lift the Shift executives.
For the general people there are two bus service available:
1. Hanif Metro Service.
2. Super bus Service.
These bus’s are start from Motijheel to Nandan Park.
Cost of Transport:
About 30 Taka per head from Motijheel.
HISTORY OF BEXIMCO GROUP:
1965-1975 Beximco is born.
1965 New Dacca Industries Ltd
1973 Beximco UK branch.
1976-1989: Beximco diversifies
1978 Beximco foods Ltd.
1979 Beximco pharmaceuticals ltd.
1982 Shinepukur Jute Spinners Ltd.
1985 Beximco apparels Ltd.
1987 Recognised as export house for contribution to country’s export.
1990-1995: Beximco expands
1990 Padma Textile Mills Ltd.(plant -1)
1992 Beximco Synthetics Ltd.
1996-1999: Beximco preparing for the new millennium.
1996 Beximco Textiles Ltd (Phase 1).
Beximco Knitting Ltd.
Beximco Denims Ltd .

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1997 Padma Textiles Mills Ltd (Plant -2).
1998 Beximco Textiles Mills Ltd (Phase 2).
Beximco Fashions Ltd .
 Physical
Infrastructure: - Single storied building (only dye warehouse is double
storied )
- Concrete structure (about 25 ft high)

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Chapter II
Manpower Management

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Oragan gram :
Man power in Different section of BTL (Weaving):
Section Man power
Winding 329
Warping 83
Sizing 50
Drawing, Denting 135
Weaving 269
Design cell 10
Label 30
Maintenance 50
Others 40
Utility 50
Total 1046
C. E. O.
↓
Chairman (A. S. F. Rahman)
↓
Vice Chairman (Salman F. Rahman)
↓
C. O. O.
↓
↓
D.G.M
Weaving
↓
D.G.M
Dye house
↓
D.G.M
Yarn dyeing
↓
D.G.M
knitting
↓
D.G.M
spinning
↓
D.G.M
Garments
Winding
Mr. Jamil
Warping
Mr. Ahad.
Sizing
Mr. Monir
Loom 1, 2
Mr. Saleh
+
Loom 3, 4
Mr. kabir
Mechanical
+ Label
Mr. Nazir
Drawing
Denting
Mr. Aman
Design Cell
Mr. Rana

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 SHIFT CHANGE:
There are three shifts per day in B.K.L. So each shift
contain eight hour.
Shift Duration
A 06.00 AM – 02.00 PM
B 02.00 PM – 10.00 PM
C 10.00 PM – 06.00 AM
General shift 09.00 AM – 05.00 PM
General shift, which is applicable for some officers.
 Function area:
Setting the different parameters of machines, using
correct yarn for order, controlling machine stare, controlling process
quality system.
 Remarks:
The organization and management system are good for
mill environment and as the job description is classified, so duties are
done honestly and sincerely.

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Chapter III
Machine Description

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Main raw Materials are yarn.size materials such as starch anti bacterial agent.
Yarn used mainly 100% cotton, PC, CVC, 100% Polyester, Lurax, lycra core spun
yarn.
Spinning section of Beximco supply maximum variety of yarn. Theyt can supply
100% cotton, PC, CVC.
Beximco synthetic supply 100% polyester.
Lurax, lycra core spun yarn import from other countries of the world.
Size material purchase by tender.

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Chapter V
Production planning
Sequences and Operation

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Process Flow:
There are two ways Woven fabric produced:
1. Solid dyed.
2. Yarn dyed.
Generally yarn dyed fabrics are costly item. Because dyed yarn are costly
and, In case of yarn dyed fabric Sectional warping is necessary which is also
costly and time consuming process.
Solid dyed
↓
Store
↓
Direct Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Drawing, Denting
↓
Weaving
Yarn Dyed
↓
Store
↓
Soft Winding
↓
Yarn dyeing
↓
Hard winding
↓
Sectional Warping
↓
Sizing
↓
Drawing, Denting
↓
Weaving
Weaving

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When Order Comes to the Marketing Section, then they contact with the
Product development (in case of new product) or Design cell (in case of available
product) that, is it possible or not possible in beximco. They Send a Article
Request paper. After reaching the Article Request paper Design cell produce
Article Code and send mail to the planning and marketing section.
Planning print a Dispo paper and send to 11 sections with related production of
that fabric.
Dispo Paper:
Dispo Paper is a paper which contain All necessary information for the
production of a specific item of fabric.
Dispo paper contains:
------next page --------------------------------Fill up
Buyer Merchandiser Marketing
Design CellPlanning
1. Design Cell
2. Yarn Requisition
3. yarn store
4. winding
5. yarn dyeing
6. warping
7. Sizing
8. Drawing, denting
9. Weaving
10. M.I.S.
11. Finishing.
Send Dispo Paper

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Design Cell:
Design Cell is one of the most important department of BTL (weaving). When a
order comes to the marketing or merchandizing officer he/she send the fabric to
the design cell that is it possible or not possible in beximco. They send a Article
request paper. Design cell analyze the fabric design and test the feasibility of
produciton and create a Article code and send this article code the marketing or
marchandizing officer and input data to the Data tex which is a software used in
beximco for all types of information by networking.
After getting Article code planning discuss with marketing officer about
costing. Then marketing officer send mail or discuss directly to the buyer about
pricing of the product.
If buyer agree with the price then marketing officer send mail to the
central planning section with Article code.
Planning take a print of dispo paper for the article code from the system
data tex. After printing dispo paper they send it to the design cell to check or
varify. Design cell check and give drawing and denting plan and send it to the
planning section again.
Planning then send it to the various section where these information
required and at a time requisition all necessary raw materials or other materials.
Article Code:
Article code is a gathering of All informations which are need to produce that
fabric in terms of code.
Article code is form by three codes:
1. Fabric code. 7 digit.
2. Pattern / variant. 6 digit.
3. Finish type. 4 digit.
Example of Fabric Code:
Example of pattern / variant ( 7 digit):
C CD LK C A
Composition
Cotton/ CVC/PC
EPI x PPI
Warp count and weft count
Width
Design

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Organ gram of Design cell:
Assistant Manager ( Md. Masud Akhter Rana)
↓
Data Entry +
Design Analyzer (2+6 person)
↓
Peon (1 person)
Dispo paper goes to the following sections:
1. Design cell.
2. Store.
3. Winding.
4. yarn dyeing.
5. warping.
6. sizing.
7. Drawing and denting.
8. Loom.
9. Finishing
10. M.S.I.
Dispo paper contains following types of informations:
1. Fabric Specification.
2. Yarn composition
3. Finished type.
4. Finished fabric’s EPI x PPI
5. Finished fabric’s width.
6. Required length.
7. Reed count.
8. Grey EPI and PPI.
9. Greige width.
10. Reed width.
11. Reed EPI
12. Required greige length.
13. Required warp length.
T T D D 36 10
Tappet design
Tappet Loom
Direct Warping
Drawing
Cover factor
Crimp %

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14. Ground Ends.
15. Selvedge Ends.
16. Cover Factor.
17. Numerical Plan (Warp & Weft)
18. Drawing & Denting Plan.
Typical Sample Analysis:

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Possible Ends per inch by using Available Reed in Inventory in Beximco by
denting 2,3 and 4 in a dent For yarn dyed fabric.
Finished Epi Reed Epi Reed count Denting Available no. Reed
33.33 30 30 2 in dent 1
50 45 30 3 in dent 1
51.11 46 46 2 in dent 20
52.22 47 47 2 in dent 1
54.44 49 49 2 in dent 25
55.56 50 50 2 in dent 8
57.78 52 52 2 in dent 10
64.44 58 58 2 in dent 81
66.67 60 30 4 in dent 1
68.89 62 62 2 in dent 11
73.33 66 66 2 in dent 6
76.67 69 46 3 in dent 20
77.78 70 70 2 in dent 12
78.33 70.5 47 3 in dent 1
80 72 72 2 in dent 26
81.67 73.5 49 3 in dent 25
83.33 75 50 3 in dent 8
83.33 75 75 2 in dent 20
84.44 76 76 2 in dent 22
86.67 78 52 3 in dent 10
86.67 78 78 2 in dent 23
93.33 84 84 2 in dent 6
95.56 86 86 2 in dent 11
96.67 87 58 3 in dent 81
102.2 92 46 4 in dent 20
102.2 92 92 2 in dent 20
103.3 93 62 3 in dent 11
104.4 94 47 4 in dent 1
104.4 94 94 2 in dent 10
106.7 96 96 2 in dent 62
108.9 98 49 4 in dent 25
110 99 66 3 in dent 6
110 99 99 2 in dent 144
111.1 100 50 4 in dent 8
114.4 103 103 2 in dent 6
115.6 104 52 4 in dent 10

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116.7 105 70 3 in dent 12
117.8 106 106 2 in dent 73
120 108 72 3 in dent 26
124.4 112 112 2 in dent 10
125 112.5 75 3 in dent 20
126.7 114 76 3 in dent 22
128.9 116 58 4 in dent 81
128.9 116 116 2 in dent 16
130 117 78 3 in dent 23
134.4 121 121 2 in dent 50
137.8 124 62 4 in dent 11
140 126 84 3 in dent 6
143.3 129 86 3 in dent 11
143.3 129 129 2 in dent 40
146.7 132 66 4 in dent 6
153.3 138 92 3 in dent 20
155.6 140 70 4 in dent 12
156.7 141 94 3 in dent 10
160 144 72 4 in dent 26
160 144 96 3 in dent 62
165 148.5 99 3 in dent 144
166.7 150 75 4 in dent 20
168.9 152 76 4 in dent 22
171.7 154.5 103 3 in dent 6
173.3 156 78 4 in dent 23
176.7 159 106 3 in dent 73
186.7 168 84 4 in dent 6
186.7 168 112 3 in dent 10
191.1 172 86 4 in dent 11
193.3 174 116 3 in dent 16
201.7 181.5 121 3 in dent 50
204.4 184 92 4 in dent 20
208.9 188 94 4 in dent 10
213.3 192 96 4 in dent 62
215 193.5 129 3 in dent 40
220 198 99 4 in dent 144
228.9 206 103 4 in dent 6
235.6 212 106 4 in dent 73

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248.9 224 112 4 in dent 10
257.8 232 116 4 in dent 16
268.9 242 121 4 in dent 50
286.7 258 129 4 in dent 40
Proposed Process Allowances For the different process:
Section
Yarn Dyeing
Warp% Weft%
Section Cumulative Section Cumulative
Yarn Dyeing 2.00 23.32 2.00 26.59
Winding 0.50 20.86 0.50 24.06
Warping 3.00 20.25 23.44
Sizing 0.50 16.64 23.44
Weaving (Crimp) 8.00 16.06 13.5 23.44
Greige (Reject) 1.00 6.78 1.00
Process Loss 1.50 5.71 1.50 5.71
Shrinkage 2.00 4.12 2.00 4.12
Inspection (Rejection 2.00 2.04 2.00 2.04
Total 23.32% 26.59%
There are major departments are :
1. Winding.
2. Warping.
3. Sizing.
Section
Yarn Dyeing(pc/cvc)
Warp% Weft%
Section Cumulative Section Cumulative
Yarn Dyeing 2.50 24.59 2.50 27.24
Winding 1.00 21.48 1.00 24.06
Warping 3.50 20.26 - 22.81
Sizing 0.50 16.05 - 22.81
Weaving (Crimp) 8.00 15.47 13.50 22.81
Greige (Reject) 1.00 6.23 1.00 6.23
Process Loss 1.50 5.17 1.50 5.17
Shrinkage 1.5 3.59 1.50 3.59
Inspection (Rejection 2.00 2.04 2.00 2.04
Total 24.59% 27.24%

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4. Drawing, Denting.
5. Weaving.
6. Inspection.
These departments are described below:
Winding Section
Definition: In fabric manufacturing (weaving) process this is the first stage
where rewinding of supplied yarn is done on to a desired package suitable for
use in the next process.
Organogram:
The organogram of this section is given below:
Section in charge
Assist Manager [Jamilur Rahman (Jamil) ]
↓
Quality Control Officer
↓
Supervising Officer
↓
Senior Operator
↓
Operator
↓
Helper
↓

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Cleaner
Skill Level Man power
Assist Manager 1
Quality Control Officer 3
Super vising Officer 27
Senior Operator.
259
Operator
Helper 27
Cleaner. 12
Total 329
Winding Section:
Types of Winding:
1. Soft Winding.
2. Hard widing.

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Soft Winding: Where the grey yarn is wound on to special “Dye Spring” and
the package (Spool) is made softer and bulkier to make it suitable for dye
liquour penetration in the (package) dyeing machine.
Hard Winding: Where the grey yarn dyeing machine is converted from
spool to paper cone, to make the yarn easily be fed to the sectional warping
machine.
Branch of Winding Section:
1. Soft Winding.
2. Hard Winding.
3. Left Over Cone Winding.
4. Sewing Thread Winding.
M/c used for Soft winding:

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Name of the machine Machine no.
1. FADIS Winder 1
2. RJK Winder. 4
3. HARISH Winder. 3
4. METTLER Winder. 2
FADIS is 10 times more expensive m/c than RJK . In this m/c every drum
is controlled by individual motor. So, if the yarn breaks that drum will be
stopped . but in RJK and HARRIS there is a common motor. Traversing motion
is controlled by grooved drum. The drum width is equal to package width. If we
want to change the package width then we have to change the drum width. But
in FADIS Traversing motion is controlled by traversing rod. So, package width
can be changed easily. During Soft winding Special type of package is used,
which is called spring type package.
This package is made of metal and has special type of structure for yarn
dying. This structure protects any kinds of deformation during yarn dying.
After dyeing the package is checked by quality assurance dept. If every thing is
OK then it goes to the winding sec. Otherwise it will be rejected. During winding
we can not wound hard package in soft winding m/c. because, hard package in
soft winding m/c because, hard package has a conical shape and soft package
forms a parallel package. This package is of two types.
1. Full cone.
2. Dia cone.
If full cone, there are about 5000 m yarn in a cone. But in dia yarn is consumed
according to the requirements. For dia every package should be checked and
measured for completion of winding. Generally 2 workers are required for every
head and 4 workers needs for every m/c.
Details information of winding machineries:

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M/c Name : FADIS Winder.
Manufacturer : FADIS Italy.
Manuf. Year : 1995
M.P.M. : 650
No. of Head : 2
No. of Drum /head : 42
Traversing system : By Traverse guide.
Motor : Individual
Stop motion : Mechanical
No. of m/c : 1
Production per head : 748.8 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]
Production per m/c : 62899.2 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]
If all head active
M/c Name : HARRISH Winder.
Manufacturer : HARRISH Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat,
India.
Manuf. Year : 1998
R.P.M. of Motor : 1430
M.P.M. : 650
No. of Head : 2
Traversing system : Grooved drum
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 3

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Production per m/c : 89856 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]
M/c Name : RJK Winder.
Manufacturer : Kinarivala RJK Industries, Ahmadabad, India.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. : 750
No. of Head : 2
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 4
Production per head : 864 km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]
M/c Name : METTLER
Manufacturer : FR Mettler’s Sons Ltd. Switzerland.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. :
No. of Head : 2
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 4
Production per head : km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]

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Production per m/c : km /day [Assuming 80% efficiency]
Speciality : Lycra winding
M/c used for Hard winding:
1. Textool winder. 6
2. KAMITSU 2
3. Harrish 1
Details information of Hard winding machineries:
M/c Name : Textool Winder.
Manufacturer : Textool Company Ltd. Coimbatore, India.
Manuf. Year : 1996
M.P.M. : 650
No. of Head : 2
Traversing system : By Grooved drum
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 6
If all head active
M/c Name : KAMITSU Winder.

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Manufacturer : Harrish Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat, India.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. :
No. of Head : 1
Motor : Individual
No. of m/c : 1
Production per m/c : km /day [Assuming 80%
efficiency]
M/c Name : Harrish Winder.
Manufacturer : Harrish Textile Engineers Ltd. Gujrat, India.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. : 650
No. of Head : 2
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 1

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Yarn path tensioner and guide:
Grooved drum:
Key Accessories:
Cone Diameter gauge.
Materials or Chemicals used:
Parafin wax is rarely used in this process.
Machine speed:
650 m /min.

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Operation Procedure:
Soft Winding:
Flow Chart:
DISPO
↓
Store Requisition.
↓
Receive the yarn.
↓
Setting & Running.
↓
Winding
↓
Checking. (Dia)
↓
Stop Winding.
↓
Quality assurance.
↓
Root card making.
↓
Delivery for dyeing.
Dispo:
Dispo is a planning sheet that comes from Design cell, it mention type of
yarn, count, amount, color, shed and other information required from
yarn preparation to finished fabric state.

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Requisition:
According to Dispo yarn preparatory section wanted sheet send to general
ware house (store) for giving yarn.
Receiving:
When yarn come from the store winding department receive yarn in
pounds by checking the required quality.
Checking:
After a certain time the worker checks the package diameter by diameter
gauge, so that required amount of yarn is wound on the package. When
the desired amount is wound the worker stops the winding.
Quality Assurance:
The Quality assurance officer checks the desired softness of package and
fault. If it is OK then the package is poly packed to keep it from dust.
Root card:
The yarn preparatory section Fill – up a sheet with the whole information
about preparatory yarn and with yarn send to the yarn dyeing section.
After dyeing receiving Root card:
After dyeing related person of preparatory section receive the yarn by
checking all mentioning quality at root card the yarn again to the sub store
section.
Procedure:
1. Marketing order is sent to weaving department through planning cell.
2. Design cell plan the amount of yarn, color and some other important
parameters.
3. Design cell prepare a dispo paper and sent to related 11 departments.
4. Winding department sent requisition to Store section according to dispo
requirement.

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5. Store department write down in register book the amount of yarn.
6. Worker of winding department open/ break the cartoon and put it under
the soft winding machine.
7. Then set dye spring on holder and manually wind some turn for the
better building the package.
8. After the required shape of spool has been achieved, the operator
manually put the spool on the salve.
9. Now the helper collects the package and put them in a trolley and sent to
the yarn dyeing section. Storage area on the floor and cover with cloth
giving lot no. , etc. in a board.

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Fig: Batch
Hard Winding:
The Scoured, bleached or dyed yarn transfer from dye spring to paper cone
where comparatively high tension according to desired size.
There are two types of hard winding.
1. From spring package: After yarn dyeing.
2. From hard package: After warping extra yarn left in the packages are re wind
in the hard package.
Flow Chart:
Root Card
↓
Checking
↓
Receiving
↓
Prepare batch card
↓
Start hard winding
↓
Measuring weight
Root card: The document sheet of material flow comes to the hard winding
section to the related person.
Checking: Check the mentioned quality of yarn.
Receiving: If all qualities are OK then yarn is received by the winding section.
Otherwise back to the dyeing sec.
Prepare batch card:

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Procedure:
1. Dyed soft spools are received from dyeing section with specification, (Lot
number, order number, counts, shade etc.)
2. Q.C. Officer check the shade of yarn and other necessary parameters.
3. Amount of yarn received from the dyeing department is written in the
register book.
4. Supervisor checks the actual order number and order for preparations of
warping batch.
5. Yarn of same color & count are kept in a cartoon.
6. After preparation for warping batch, excess yarn is rewound to produce
weft package.
Left Over cone winding Section:
The Cone Containing excess yarn after warping are sent in the left over section.
Here rewinding is done from several left over cone. These cone are used as weft
yarn. As a result the wastage of costly yarn is minimized.
Machine Available for this section:
BEXIMCO TEXTILES LTD.
Order No:
Customer:
Batch No:
Count:
Shade:
Pcs & Qty:
Recones:
Remarks:
Date:

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1. Textool winder 4
2. METTLER 1
3. CIMMCO 1
Details of those m/c:
M/c Name : Textool Winder.
Manufacturer : Textool Company Ltd. Coimbatore, India.
Manuf. Year : 1996
M.P.M. : 650
No. of Head : 2
Traversing system : By Grooved drum
No. of Traverse : ½
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 4
If all head active
M/c Name : METTLER
Manufacturer : FR Mettler’s Sons Ltd. Switzerland.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. :
No. of Head : 2

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No. of traverse : 2/3
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 1
Speciality : Lycra
M/c Name : CIMMCO
Manufacturer : CIMMCO Ltd.
Manuf. Year : 1998
M.P.M. :
No. of Head : 2
No. of Traverse :
Motor : Common
No. of m/c : 1
Speciality : Lycra
Note: This left over cone winding section also used for normal hard cone
winding when necessary.

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Sewing thread cone winding Section:
Here the the dyed ply yarn is wound in to a small plastic cone. These cones are
supplied from different garments factory of BEXICO group. Here lubrication is
done during winding. Each cone contain 2000 meter yarn.
Machine available for this section:
1. CHENGFENG 10
M/c Name : CL – PAGODA Thread winding machine
Manufacturer : CHENGFENG Ltd.
Origing : China
Driving system : Direct Driving
No. of Motor/mc 6
No. of spindle/ motor : 2
R.P.M. of Motor :
M.P.M. :
Traversing system : Traversing rod
No. of Traverse :
Motor : Individual
Stop motion :
No. of m/c : 10
Faults in winding section:

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Faults Causes
1. Excessive Hard package Excess tension
2. Excessive Loose package Less tension
3. Ring Faulty drum
4. Stitching Vibration of Package
5. Ribbon Ribbon breaker problem.
6. Bulging Improper alignment of Package
7. Entanglement Jerking package
8. Bunch Improper store and handling
9. Cut cone Package drop
10. Reverse winding Low pressure
Swing Thread winding Machine:
Types of Maintenance:

42
1. Schedule maintenance
2. Break down maintenance.
Spare item types:
1. Readymade / purchase:
2. Fabrication tool in work shop / other side
3. Import item.
Quality Control in winding Section:
The following quality is maintained in preparatory stage.
Shade matching:
The dyed yarn compared with lab drip sample or swatch card.
Level Checking:
During package dyeing dyes chemical enter in to package by pressure. So there
is a possibility to differ level in inner and outer side. It is checked and allow up
to (5 -6)%
Fastness:
Water and color fastness is checked.
Strength:
CSP, tenacity, CV% of tenacity, elongation are tested.
Package hardness:
Soft wound package is checked by hand if it is hard improper dyeing will occur,
the hard wound package also checked if it is less hard or too hard it will create
problem in subsequent process.
Material Handling Equipment For Winding Section:
1. Creel.

43
2. Trolley.
1. Creel:
2. Trolley.
Trolley:

44
Weft yarn package traveller:

46
Operational Staff:
Section in – Charge
Senior Executive
(Abdul Ahad)
↓
Quality Control Officer
↓
Supervising officer
↓
Senior Operator
↓
Creel man
↓
Helper
Direct Warping
Process Flow:
Dispo
↓
Yarn from store
↓
Creeling
↓
Warping
High Speed Warping m/c Setting:
Set up parameters Range Set value
Cone no. of Creel 400-600 As required

47
Warping Speed 1-1200 m/min
Warping length 1-999999 m
Shift selection 1-5 3
Beaming drum pressure 1-11 mm scale 5 mm scale
Stop drop wire 1, 2, 3. 1 higher
Tensioner A, B, C. C higher
Depth of penetration 1-40 mm As required
Beam barrel dia 315 mm Fixed
Beam flange dia. 987 mm Fixed
Beam width 1800 mm As required
Depth of travel must be same in both the sizes of creel. Yarn ;tension can be
increased or decreased by changing depth of travel. Higher the setting values
higher the tension applied, but high tension may be needed fore lower bearing
speed, lower end breaks in comb, lower clinging ends.
# The sequences of operation of the pretension is controlled through the
following 2 programs
1. program A = Ease program ( For trouble free program)
2. Program B = Anti snarl program ( For lively, high twist or OE yarn.
# Pressure setting of stop motion & tensioner: (Off Creel)
Setting is adjustable by rotary button, which activate stop motion drop wire &
pressure.
Stop motion Tension Setting range Yarn Count (Ne)
3 C Coarse 4-30S
2 B` Medium 4-60S
1 A Fine 15-120s

48
Operation Procedure Direct Warping:
1. As per production program given by assistant manager, preparation
through the yarn warp record register, the supervising officer collects
griege yarn from store as per required count, lot number and quantity.
2. The machine operates and helpers open / break the yarn cartoon and
place the cones in the creel head as per program and draw the head end
of the cone through pretension rods, feeler guides, yarn guides and then
through expanded comb of beaming unit.
3. The basic creel data setting and machine data setting are done according
to the requirement as per m/c manufacturer operating instruction.
4. An empty beam is set in between driving clutch and engaged by means of
electric switch.
5. All the ends from the creel is wrapped around the beam manually one
round.
6. The press roller is moved towards the beam by means of electric switch.
7. The m/c is then run slowly and checked for yarn alignment with beam
flange on both sides. To ensure alignment the expanded comb may be
moved either to the right or left as required by switch.
8. Thus the m/c is ready and the operational switch is to be turned on.
9. As the present length is achieved the m/c will stop automatically. The
beam is doffed by switch and another beam is mounted.
10. In this way a set of beams are made to feed the subsequent sizing process.
11. Production is recorded in the yarn wrap record register; each beam is set
with warping data sticker for identification in the next process.
Sectional Warping

49
Process Flow:
Dispo
Yarn from store
Creeling
(According to warp plan)
Machine setup
Section wise warping
Beaming
Warp width:
Total Ends Warp Width
Below 7200 1800 mm
7200 2000 mm
Above 7200 2100 mm
Control Data Parameter Evaluation:
Feed- 1 =
widthWarpTotalDensity
TotalDecitex 0.5Ends


Feed 2= Measured feed X 0.85 ( For Cotton)
= Measured feed X 0.95 (For Synthetic)
Feed -1= Drum Movement with revolution per minute.
Feed -2= Actual movement of Drum.
Measured feed=> It find out the variation between Feed -1 to Feed -2 Variation
+/- 15%
Piece length= Machine stop before wound 10 -15 meter of required length.

50
Head stock of sectional warping machine:
Causes of yarn breakage in warping:
1. Weak yarn.
2. Sloughing off.
3. Over lapping.
4. Knots/ bad splice.
Fig: Sectional Warping m/c.

51
5. Slubs.
6. Loose yarn.
7. Pig tail.
8. Cut yarn.
9. Bad tip cone.
10. Short cone.
Maintenance of Warping machinery:
Problem 1: V – reed not up and down.
Result: Line mark on Beam, rough surface.
Cause: Wearing gear.
Solve: Change the gear.
Problem 2: Oil drop from the machine.
Result: Make the floor dirty.
Cause: Oil break leakage.
Change all O–ring that will check the leaking.
Problem 3: Warping drum break does not work properly.
Result: Excessive hard beam.
Cause: Rust on the brake plate.
Solve: Clean the rust.
Problem 4: Electrical problem.
Solve: Repair the problem.
Creel:

53
Sectional Warping tapered drum:

54
Drawing, Denting Section:
Process definition:
After a sized beam or weaver’s beam is made, it is time to mount this beam over
the loom. There are two methods used to prepare this beam for mounting on a
loom.
1. Warp tying or knotting (Quick style) change process.
2. Reaching – in /Drawing – in and beam gaiting.
Warp tying:
This method is limited to use where and exactly same article or quality of fabric
is to be made that is already running in the loom. The following points are
considered-
1. The total number of warp ends should be the same as that of running.
2. The count of yarn and weave design should be same.
Before tying a new beam with an older one, the new beam is to undergo a
process called leasing, whereby the adjacent yarns are kept separated by
placing a yarn in between them. This is very essential in case of tying a yarn
dyed beam; otherwise the warp pattern scheme will be disturbed and lost.
For monocular beam (solid dyed beam), tying is performed without leasing.
Drawing – in:

55
The method of mounting weaver’s beam on to the loom, which is adopted for
the same style of working of adjacent warp yarns or yarn interlacement,
compared to that of running in looms.
In this method warp yarns are separated individually as per count or color
pattern from the adjacent yarn and hooked to the access of drawer’s hook called
reaching – in.
The yarn as it comes to “reach” or drawer’s hook is then drawn through dropper
(or drop wire) and then passed through the split of the reed dent called denting.
Operation procedure:
Warp tying:
1. Assistant weaving manager monitor the following on a daily basis:
Every day beam production record and the style of fabric to be made
from these beams.
Check the number of looms running out of beams at every day and check
that loom specification relating to designing scope, i.e. – number of heald
frames, reed count and weft insertion capacity etc. Make a list of tying in
accordance with the marketing priority and availability of looms & that
are running out of beam.
2. According to that plan, knotting – in – charge & Drawing – in – charge
jointly arrange leasing of beams, the respective beams being identified
from the sizing data sticker.
3. As leasing is completed the beam is transported to a specific loom and
mounted on loom beam bracket. The tying frame is set on proper
position.

56
4. The ends of old beam and the ends of the new beam are accurately
brushed and gripped by the frame sothat older and newer ends, make
and upper & lower set of yarn placed in proper tension.
5. The warp tying head is mounted over the tying frame. In case of
STAUBLI machine, number of knots per repeat of color pattern is entered
in to machine.
6. Then the machine is started. After the programmed number of knots per
color is reached, knotting will stop. Operator will check the correctness of
the knot and start again by switch.
7. Thus knotting will be completed up to the end of set, tying up per set of
older yarn with lower set of new warp.
8. As knotting is completed, the knotting operator make a quality card
mentioning customer name, work number, beam number beam length,
knotting operator’s name and date and time of knotting.
9. The sizing date sticker is set over the quality (of doffing) card, and the
card is set over the loom.
10. The knotting operator also makes a work record in his register book.
11. As knotting is completed, tying head and frame are removed, the old
piece odd knotted yarn is pulled through the machine, i.e. through heald
wire and reeds and thus new warp set is allowed to pass and made ready
to run.
Drawing – in and reaching – in:
1. The customers fabric swatch is sent to the weaving section, generally after
warping is done, either by enclosed to the order sheet to form or

57
separately. Assistant manager (weaving) then analyzes the swatch for
reproduction. In this stage the determines –
a. The design of sample i.e. whether dobby or tappet or combination
of two.
b. The drawing – in, denting and lifting or tappet/ cam setting plan.
c. The required number of heald frame and reed count, draw width
etc.
2. Then whenever the sized beam is ready, the worked out drawing – in
plan, reed count etc. against an order number is given to the drawing – in
– charge for production. Drawing – in – charge for production. Drawing –
in – charge makes a work program considering the following:
a. The availability of the run out loom for beam.
b. The availability or required number of reed count.
3. Drawing – in – charge and senior drawer find out the desired sized beam
number from the sizing production record, check against the specific
work order number and from transport these to the drawing – in – section
by trolley and start working there.
4. According to the work order number each design/ drawing – in plan is
recorded in the register book, the produced sample being attached
thereafter.
5. After drawing – in/ denting is completed each beam is set with a quality/
doffing card, the sizing data sticker is being attached on the card. On the
quality card the following information are written –
a. Customer name
b. Work order number.
c. Beam number.
d. Beam length.

58
e. Loom number where the beam is to be set.
6. During deciding the loom number the drawing – in – charge takes into
consideration designing scope and color insertion scope of the respective
loom.
7. Finally beam gaiters carry this beam along with dropper, healds and reed
with trolley onto the specified loom and mount.
8. They will pull the new yarn from the beam and set in the loom with
dropper, healds and reed properly positioned and tie the new yarn with
the old piece of cloth wrapped around the surface roller with a number of
small knots.
Drawing Denting frame: Where the drawing, denting and pinning are done
of warp yarn. Drawing and pinning are done by the drawing hook and denting
is done by the denting plate which is called “patti” by the worker.
yarn path of a Warp beem in a drawing, denting frame:

59
Equipment used in Drawing denting and pinning Section:
Droper bar
Heald shaft
Reed
Sized beem

60
Denting plate (Patti):
Drawing Hook:
Drop Wire:
Material Handling Equipments used in Beximco:
Beam Carear:

62
WEAVING SECTION
Process Definition:
The act of inter lacing Warp yarn(of a beam) with the inserted weft yarn in a
definite order to form a fabric suitable for use as a dress material, domestic or
industrial purpose is called weaving. The machine used for this purpose is called
loom.
Weaving Floor:
Process equipment:
Air jet loom
Loom section – 1

63
Total no of loom - 72
No of Dobby loom -16 (16 heald frame)
No of Tappet loom - 56 (8 heald frame)
Loom with 6 EDP - 3
Loom with 2 EDP - 69
Loom section – 2
Total no of loom - 72
No of Dobby loom - 16 (16 heald frame)
Loom with 4 EDP -30
Loom section – 3 & 4
Total no of loom –-155
No of Dobby loom - 4 (16 heald frame)
No of Tappet (Seer sucker) loom - 56 (8 heald frame)
Positive shedding Tappet loom - 1
Rapier loom (somet) - 6
Loom with 2 EDP – 101
Manufacture of Air jet loom:
TOYOTA automatic loom works Ltd.
Marubeni Corporation.

64
Textile Machinery Department
Tokyo, Japan
EQUIPMENTS OF LOOM SECTION
The machine used for the purpose of weaving can be categorized as follows:
Model, make
TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM
JAPAN
Shedding device Weft
Insertion
RPM No. of
looms
JA 2S 190 TN-MF-600T Negative Cam
shedding
02 950 82
JA 4S 190 TN-MF-600T Do 04 775 30
TYPE 2580 DOBBY
MODEL
JA 2S 190 DE-MF-610T
Electronic
Dobby
02 750 16
TYPE 2580 DOBBY
MODEL
Do 06 725 16
TYPE 2580 DOBBY
MODEL
Do 04 675 4
JA 4S 190 TN-MF-610T Negative Cam
shedding
04 775 98
JA 6S 190 TN-MF-610T Do 06 725 36
JA 2S 190 TN-MF-610T Twin Beam
(Seer sucker)
and Negative
04 650 10

65
Cam
shedding
JA 2S 190 TP-MF-610T Denim 02 1000 1
Total loom: 293
KEY ACCESSORIES:
Weaver’s hook; pick counting glass, measuring tape.

66
SPECIFICATIONS OF AIR JET LOOM:
GENERAL SPECIFICATION
Motor R.P.M : 1410
M/C speed : 625 PPM
Motor pulley dia : 100mm
M/C pulley dia : 225mm
Reed : Profiled reed
Shedding : Cam, Electric Dobby
Take up motion : 7 wheel (mechanical)
Let off motion : Electronic
Warp stop : Electrical
Weft stop : Electronic
HEALD SHAFT SPECIFICATION
Brand Name : New light

67
Manufacturer : Nankai industrial Co. Ltd.
Origin : Japan
PHOTO ELECTRIC SENSOR
Model : CY-21P-SK
Manufacturer : Sunx Ltd.
Origin : Taiwan
LENO BOBBIN WINDER
Brand Name : Precision spooler
Model : PS
Manufacturer : Sankin engineering Co. Ltd.
Origin : Japan
SIGNAL LAMP
Manufacturer : Hayashi feeler Co. Ltd.
Origin : Japan
CABLE
Manufacturer : Mitsubishi Cable Industries Ltd.
Origin : Japan
REED SPECIFICATION

68
Brand Name : (i) RTOS (ii) Setia kiji reed
Origin : Japan
Type : Profile reed
Reed Count : 129, 121, 116, 106, 99, 92, 88/2,
74/4, 72/4 etc.
Reed Width 172.50cm
WARP BEEM CARRIER
Brand Name : TODO
Model : S-1500
Manker : Marubeni Corp
Origin : Japan
OVER ALL CLEANER
Brand Name : LUWA
Type : Suction
LOOM MOTOR SPECIFICATION (3 Phase Inductor Motor)
R.P.M : 1410
Maker : Meidensha Corp
H.P : 3KW

69
SIGNAL LAMP:
COLOR INDICATION
Red : Warp breakage
Green : Weft breakage
White : Loom stop
Yellow : Selvedge leno bobbin breakage
LENO SETTING:
Right side : 10°
Left side : 280°
PRODUCTION PROCEDURE:
Operation stuff:
Assistant Manager – section in charge
Production officer – shift in charge
Loom Technicians – shift wise running loom checking/ tuning/ setting &
gauging
Senior loom operator – as a line jobber, for production & Q.C.
Loom Operator
Helpers & movers – for supplying yarn and yarn cartoons
Casual worker – For keeping the machine & section clean
MACHINE SETUP:

70
Model, make Weft insertion capacity RPM
TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM,
JAPAN JAT 600, RS –
190cm
2 Up to 720
Do 4 Up to 720
Do 2 Up to 620
Do 6 Up to 620
TOYOTA AIR JET LOOM,
JAPAN JAT 610, RS –
190cm
4 Up to 620
Do 4 Up to 720
Do 6 Up to 720
Do 4 Up to 720
JA 2S 190 TP-MF- 610T 2 Up to 1000
FULL – LENO SELVEDGE DEVICE:
MECHANISM:

71
This device binds two leno yarns with every weft yarn at each side of the fabric
to produce a firm selvedge construction that well enough to become loose if weft
yarns are cut.
Different parts of Air Jet loom:
1. EDP(Electronic Drum Prewinder).
2. Tappet(Cam).
3. Lever and Puller.
4. Reed.
5. Dobby.
6. Easing roller.
7. Back rest.
8. Take up roller.
9. Cloth roller.
10. Weft Filler.
11. Dummy selvedge stop.
12. Weft cutter.
13. Drop wire and bar.
14. Leno selvedge attachment.
15. Main nozzle.
16. Sub nozzle.
17. Tample.
18. Tapo system.
19. Dummy selvedge system.
20. Monitor and Mother board
21. Pressure control Switch.
22. Grease tank.
Adjustment of setting:
Cutter to reed distance: 1mm

72
Tample to reed: 3mm
EDP pin to bend: 0.5mm.
Sub nozzle to sub nozzle: 88mm.
Two pick gear: 0.23mm
Band in EDP setting:
The band are adjustable they can move for up to down along the scale to wards
centre. For long weft yarn more dia use and for short weft yarn smaller dia is
used.
Weft inserting adjustment:
40 × 80/2
Construction: -------------------
120 × 62
No of EDP used- 1
EDP pin-
Opening angle - 85°
Closing angle - 125°
20 × 30
Construction: -------------------
130 × 70
No of EDP used- 1
EDP pin-
Opening angle - 110°
Closing angle - 51°

73
Easing roller Setting:
For different structure
Plain: +7
Plain + Twill: +5
Stripe design: +1
Long Float: +2
Combined: +5
Lower count plain: +3
Shed Size:
Plain:
Shed angle: 30°
Shed depth: 3 – 3.5cm
Plain + Shateen:
Shed angle: 20°
Shed depth: 2.5cm
Twill:
Shed angle: 25°
Shed depth: 3.5cm
Tappet Box and Dobby box:

74
Weft sensors:
Driving Mechanism of Tappet:

75
Shedding Mechanism of Tappet:
Cam box
By timing belt

76
Available tappet in Beximco:
4 up 1 Down
2 down 2 up 1 down 1 up
2 up 1down 2 up1 down

77
1 up 2down 1 up2 down
1 Up 4 Down
3 Up 1 Down

78
2 Up 2 Down
Shedding mechanism of Dobby:
Take up Mechanism:

79
Take up Mechanism of Tappet and Dobby loom:
Main shaft
Take Up Roller

80
Air Supply for the loom: Fresh air supply to the loom from the compressor. After
that there is a air filter with every separate loom ensure pure and dust free air.
Air supply to the following sections of loom:
1. Tendem nozzle / Main nozzle.
2. Sub nozzle / Relay nozzle.
3. Weft cutter.
4. E.D.P.
Some other important equipments:
Take up roller:

81
Beam lifter to the Seer sucker loom:
Dummy selvedge waste box:
Warp addition device / Dummy selvedge’s yarn:

82
Grid bar:
Air Suction:
Oil Pump:
E.D.P:

85
Grey fabric fault:
1. Starting mark
2. Miss pick
3. Double pick
4. Loose yarn
5. Slubs
6. Yarn contamination
7. Defective selvedge
8. Hole / tear
9. Oil spot
10. Design fault
11. Shading
12. Size stained
13. Mending
14. Float / Zala
Maintenance:
Guideline for lubricating different parts of loom:
Lubricating points Interval Methods
Tappet cam shedding
motion
Jack lever shaft
Tappet box
12 hrs
yearly
Automatic
Manually with oiler
Let-off motion
Easing bearing (RH/LH)
Warp beam holder and
12 hrs Manually with grease
gun

86
clamp (RH/LH)
Warp beam gear
Let off drive box
at warp beam
change Manually with brush
Take up motion
Take up gears
Bevel wheel
Worm wheel shaft
Cloth roller shaft
12 hrs
12 hrs
at beam change
at beam change
Automatic
Automatic
Manually with
brush
Beating motion
Rocking metal
Housing
12 hrs
Automatic
Leno selvedge forming
device
Leno selvedge case
Leno selvedge drive gear
Leno shaft drive bracket
12 hrs
12 hrs
at beam change
Automatic
Automatic
Manually with oiler
Gearing box
Rotary encoder
Oil bath
Yearly
Yearly
Manually with brush
Manually with oiler
Dobby shedding motion
Dobby shedding box Yearly Manually with oiler
1. Before lubrication make sure that no air is entrapped inside grease gun,
periodically check the feeding amount of grease.
2. Before lubrication check that grease nipple of each lubrication point is not
damaged or broken.
3. Never mix different brands of grease or oil.
4. After oil changing check the oil level monthly and if is low add oil.

87
Method of lubrication:
1. Electric centralized grease lubrication – automatic electric centralized
grease lubricator consists of a pump, motor and tank. The lubrication
interval can be set from the function panel and generally is set to 12 hours
for running up to 2 to 3 weeks after loading a warp beam. After that
interval should be every 24 hours.
2. Manual lubrication.
Parts lubrication:
1. Plunger pump
2. Electric motor
3. Tank
4. Oil drainer
5. Grease gun
6. Oiler
7. Oil brush
Guide line for changing oil of the cam box:
1. Put an oil receiver under cam box take out plug and drain the oil.
2. Wipeout oil from the screw hole in the cam box and clean the cam box.
3. Put back the plug into the screw hole.
4. With machine in halt apply lubricant on the lubrication hole until oil
surface reaches above the centre of the oil level gauge.
Guide line for let-off oil changing:
1. Insert oil drainer into drain port to drain the let-off drive box oil.
2. Remove the white rubber plug for air vent.

88
3. Supply lubrication from the lubrication port with oiler until top of the oil
surface reaches about the middle of the level gauge.
4. Set white rubber plug on the air vent.
Guide line for changing grease distributor:
1. Disconnect the grease pipes from the distributor
2. Open the valve from the junction
3. Install new one and tight the valve on the junction

89
Hand Loom Section
In Beximco Textile Ltd there is a hand loom section. There are several
hand loom section with combined section, such as treadle, treadle nad dobby,
treadle and jacquard. There is also hank winding frame, sample high speed
warping machine, sectional warping machine also.
When Beximco gets a new order without any swatch, then a cad is prepared and
sends it to the Hand loom section. There a small size of sample is prepared. If the
sample is prepared successfully according to specification, then the planning
department took necessary step for bulk production.

90
Label Weaving Section
In Beximco Textile Ltd there is a label weaving section. This section is equipped
with modern electronic jacquard weaving machine. Here various woven label
which are used in garments are product. These labels are supplied in various
garments industry of Beximco group.
Label weaving floor:
Process equipment:
1. Needle loom with electronic jacquard shedding mechanism
- 5 head
- 8 head
- 12 head

91
2. Rapier loom with electronic jacquard shedding mechanism
- Electronic cutter can easily adjust for different width
label production
- Each contain 8 EDP
(No of machine - 3)
Needle weft insertion:

93
Control panel:
Cutting and Folding:

94
There is Three types of folding:
1. Centre fold
2. Side fold.
3. Butterfly fold.
Centre fold

96
Chapter XI
Marketing Activities

97
LIST OF BUYER
Customer Country
PVH(Phillip Van Husen)
(CK, Arrow, KC)
America
JC Penny America
Zara Spain
H & M(Hensne & Mauritz) England
Haddad America
C & A France
Carrefour Europe
Henbury Europe
Marks & Spencer England
Perry Ellis America

98
Chapter II
Quality Assurance System
Executive loom:
Four persons can do the job-
1. first meter checker
2. loom checker
3. loom checker
4. loom checker(reliever)
Grease inspection:
Two persons can do the job-
1. loom checker
2. grease inspection checker
First meter checking procedure:
Approved sheet by executive
Checking point:
For solid dyed:
1. construction
2. width(standard+/- 1”)
3. weave design as std
4. selvedge
5. reed number
6. denting order

99
7. design/color/pattern
For yarn dyed:
1. construction
2. width(standard+/- 1”)
3. weave design as std
4. selvedge
5. reed number
6. denting order
7. design/color/pattern
All check points are checked by first meter checker and executive will confirm
that O.K or not O.K. By comparing with the first meter of first loom and
approved sample.
Loom checkers job:
Any type of fault like
1. stop mark
2. miss pick
3. double pick
4. wrong knotting etc found then this sample is not approved
List of equipments:
1. scissor
2. pick counter
3. measuring tape
Quality Standard:

100
Given on the dispo paper
DAILY WEAVING PERFORMANCE REPORT
QUALITY ASSURANCE DEPARTMENT
BEXIMCO TEXTILES LIMITED
Date: ………
Order
#
Customer Construction Quality Shade Starting
time
Loom
#
Sample
Rcv
Time
Sign Remark

101
QUALITY ASSURANCE & LAB TESTING SECTION
PHYSICAL TESTS:
Test Name Equipments Manufacturer
Thread per inch Thread counter James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Gram per square meter G.S.M tester James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Width test Measuring tape N/A
Tensile strength Elmendorf tearing tester
1653
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Seam slippage Alphatens James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Abrasion resistance Nu-Martindale
Abrasion & Pilling tester
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Pilling resistance ICI pilling box James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Thermal stability Roaches Roaches engineering
limited
Crease resistance Shirley crease
recovery tester
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,

102
England
CHEMICAL TEST:
Wash Fastness Gyro wash James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Water Fastness Perspirometer &
Carbolite
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Sweat Fastness Perspirometer &
Carbolite
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Light Fastness Light fastness
Tester(Mercury vapor
lamp)
James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Crocking Fastness Crocometer James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
Washing stability Wascator James. H. Heal &
Company, Halifax,
England
ANALYSIS:

103
Fiber analysis Electronic microscope James swift U.K.
Fabric analysis Balance, Thread counter N/A
Design analysis N/A N/A

104
GREY FABRIC INSPECTION:
PROCESS DEFINATION:
Grey fabric inspection is the process of identifying weaving faults in the fabric
just after the grey fabric production in the loom.
EQUIPMENT:
1. Inspection table
2. Fabric inspection machine(Nazer, L 90p, Pakistan)
KEY ACCESSORIES:
Nipper, Pointer, Cutter, Comb etc.
INSPECTION PROCEDURE:
Operation stuff:
Cloth doffer, cloth meter, inspector.
MACHINE SET-UP:
Machine set up Parameter range Set value
Roller speed 100-1500 rev/hr 590-600 rev/hr
Light N/A Artificial light
Length measuring meter N/A Attached with the

105
machine
OPERATION PROCEDURE:
Operation Stuff:
Operation stuffs of Inspection Process include:
Factory Manager
↓
Manager, Quality Control
↓
Production Executive
↓
Supervisor
↓
Sr. Inspector
↓
Inspector
↓
Helper
MACHINE SET-UP:
M/C Set Value & Parameter
Check
: M/C Set Value & Functionality
Check
1. Guide roller speed : 40 meter/min
2. Light : Artificial day light
3.Length measuring meter : Attached with the fabric & the
m/c
4. Automatic cutter(knife) : Functionality check

106
5. Slippage measuring roller : Functionality observe
6. Batcher : Check batcher setting with motor
Inspection Room:
The steps involved in the Inspection Process is as follows:
1. Inspector connects the batcher with motor and feeds the fabric by the
guide roller. The fabric goes through a special table where there are
arrangements for special lighting to detect faults in the fabric visually.
2. At the beginning of inspection of any roll, a 10” × 6” sample is cut from
each roll and kept as a color reference. The ‘side to centre’ and ‘side to
side’ shading is checked using this sample. All rolls are checked in similar
way and Roll to Roll shade continuity is maintained for every batch. Then
it is properly labeled with the fabric reference number or name, batch

107
number, color and date. Later, it is checked with the Standard Lab dip
and with previously produced batch.
3. Fabric is inspected as per inspection procedure of 4-point system. After
the inspection, the fabric is rolled or folded without any crease and is
packed by polythene paper. The inspector puts the Identification Sticker
on the fabric roll with details of the fabric (i.e. order no, customer, batch
no, shade, roll no, usable width composition etc.).
Type of fabric : Maximum Roll size
(meter)
1. Poplin : 250
2. Yarn dyed : 250
3. T.C Fabric : 300
4. Twill : 150
4. The good as well as reject quantities are entered in the MASH module of
Datatex system with respective quality codes and then they are
transferred to the finished goods stores.
Four Point Inspection System:
Generally any piece of fabric with less than 40 points fault per 100 square yard is
allowed to pass however for a roll; the average value should not exceed 28
points per 100 square yards. More than 40 points fault per 100 square yards is

108
recorded as reject. Normally fabric faults are recorded using the 4-point system
given below:
4-Point Grading System
Fault length Points to be assigned
(0 to 7.5) cm or less than 3” 1 points
(7.5 to 15) cm or (3” to 6”) 2 points
(15 to 22.5) cm or (6” to 9”) 3 points
More than 22.5 cm or 9” 4 points

109
FINISHED FABRIC INSPECTION:
PROCESS DEFINATION:
Inspection refers to an investigation process of accepting or rejecting the final
finished fabric from the bulk it is an observation process to find out each and
every visible fault in the fabric.
EQUIPMENT:
1. OFFRI or OFF-FRIGERIO-SRL for inspection.
2. OFFRI or OFF-FRIGERIO-SRL for packing of fabric roll.
KEY ACCESSORIES:
1. Scissors
2. Blade
3. Measuring tape
4. Length-measuring meter,
5. Needle with forceps
6. leveling m/c
7. Pick counter
MATERIALS USED FOR PACKING:
1. Polythene of 0.2 – 0.3mm thickness
2. Paper tube of 148-150cm
Inner dia of 3-3.5cm
Outer dia of 4-5cm
Thickness of 0.4-0.5cm
(Paper tube should be strong enough for handling)

110
3. Batch ticket &
4. Identification sticker
5. Arrow sticker
6. Measuring tape etc.
As a new beam (or article) is set to a loom either by drawing cum gaiting or
tying, it
is the task of the loom technician to check and set.
All necessary setting, gauging and operating values through the loom
function panel
and mechanical means. After all setting has been done, the loom function is
checked
by slow running or inching. The first meter of the fabric is made with
normal
running and cut off from the loom and checked over an inspiration box
against light.
The fabric is checked visually for:
1. Any wrong pattern setting.
2. Any wrong drawing & denting.
3. Fabric width, warp & weft density.
4. Any other cloth defect.
Any fault found in the fabric is corrected over the loom and is handed over to
the operator for normal running.
For all types of yarn dyed fabrics and specially designed fabric of solid dyed
class the first meter of the fabric is sent to Q.C. department for subsequent test

111
and upon getting quality approval form Q.C. manager/weaving is started. The
quality approval sheet is filed in weaving as a record.
THE TECHNICIAN’S PROCEDURE IS AS FOLLOWS:
From the quality card set over the loom, the technicians find out the
respective grey fabric request form from Assistant Manager’s office for setting –
Pick density
Woven design, i.e. lifting plan
Weft color patterning
Beam length
Cut length, etc.
Depending on the yarn count, weave design and sizing beam condition
the loom r.p.m is decided and set by changing motor pulley, if required.
Yarn count, weave design, Drawing width, r.p.m etc. is set to the initial
condition setting mode of the loom computer. In this state some important
values like picking timing, valve timing, let off tension etc. are set automatically.
Beam length and cut length also set in the weaver mode.
According to the drawing width, measuring band position is set
mechanically using the ”Help” switch of the basic operation mode. Weft feeler’s
setting, shed angle and shed timing setting, sub-nozzle setting , temple setting,
R.S. cutter setting are done mechanically as per machine manufacturer operating
manual.
The weft patterning as worked out by design analyst or Assistant
Manager is set to pattern setting mode and in case of dobby design the worked
out lifting plan is set to the dobby basic setting mode.
All the setting is executed by the switch.
Then the machine is run slowly by inching mechanism on run set mode.
If there is no fault found, the machine is set at normal operating speed. The air
pressure is checked to correspond with the picking timing.

112
Sometimes to achieve higher efficiency & cloth quality the initial
condition setting values (standard) like picking timing, shedding timing, start &
stop timing, let off tension etc. are changed.
Regular checking is also carried out during operator and different
parameters are fine-tuned as required to achieve highest possible loom running
efficiency.

114
Chapter II
Utility Service

115
Utility Services:
Utility Service is
There are following utility services are available in Beximco:
1. Gas.
2. Water.
3. Electricity.
4. A/c Plant (Chiller).
5. Compressed Air.
6. Steam.
7. Efluent treatment plant.

116
Power generation:
Facility:
The main utility electricity is generated by generators which are operated by Gas
and Diesel engine. There are also the connection of R.E.B for urgent use.
There are 10 gas engine operated generators
Engine Name: WARTSILA SCAM DIESEL
Manufacturing Country: France.
Generator: STAMFORD
Manufacturing Country: England
Another 3 Diesel engine operated generators
Name: SCANIA (2) and WAKESHA (1)
Capacity:
Capacity/ generator: 1MW/ 1000 KW
Total Capacity: 10 MW.
0.3 – 0.4 m3 Gas is required per KW electricity generation
Gas is supplied from Titas Gas.
Specification:
1. Gas engine used.
2. 16 cylinders per engine
3. Overall efficiency – 80%
4. Heat recovery possible from 4 engines
5. Stroke of engine – 176 mm
6. Cylinder capacity – 71.6 dm3
7. Ignition pressure – 90 bar
8. Piston speed – 9m/s
9. Air flow of full load = 1.65 kg /hour.
10. Exhaust flow of full load= 1.7 kg /hour.
11. Exhaust gas temperature =500ºC
12. Pressure of gas = 60 -62 millibar
13. Air pressure =7 bar
14. Engine rpm=1500
15. Engine temperature= 85º C – 90ºC
16. Cylinder Temperature = 550º C – 650ºC
17. Oil change after 750 hours
18. Oil required /engine = 180 lt.

117
Distribution:
Different Section of BTL, BDL, BKL.
BTL 6 MW
BDL 1 MW
BKL 1 MW
Garments 1 MW
Padma spinning 1 MW.
Steam generation:
Facility:
Pure steam with required temperature must be produced to meet the conditions
demand of steam in different sections.
Fire tube type boiler is used to steam generation.
No. of boiler: 5 twine boiler
a) 4 boiler is operated by Titas gas
b) 1 boiler is operated by burn gas from generator
c) Another boiler operated by burn gas use to heat the water.
Capacity:
4 boiler – Each 10 ton /hr.
1 boiler – 2.5 ton /hr.
Total – 42.5 ton /hr.
Steam flow 9 ton/hr each (approximately)
Specification:
1) 3 phase heating system
2) The lower drum is 100% water filled and the top drum is 60%
water & 40% steam filled.
3) Measuring meter for water supply.
4) 4” depth greasol insulation so no heat at outside.
5) Steam pressure 8.2 kg/cm2
6) Water pressure 10.3 kg/cm2
7) Manufacturer: Thermax, India
8) Steam temperature: 185ºC
9) Boiler temperature (inner): 225 -275ºC
Chemicals used for boiler feed water:
NaCl solution for regeneration.
NALCO-4654 (Scale removal)

118
Distribution:
1. The major portion of the steam is supplied to the BTL dye house.
To heating the drying Cylinder.
To heating the calendar rollers.
Heating the chemicals liqor.
2. Sizing section of BTL & BDL
For Size cooking
Size box to keep required viscosity
3. Garments section
For steaming and ironing.
Compressed Air:
Facility:
Natural gas is drawn by pipe through the filters above the compressor &
the air is compressed. In such a case the air becomes slightly hot. Hence cold
water is drawn to reduce the temperature of compressed air. Thus the cold water
becomes slightly hot & goes through outlet pipe to the overhead deserver. Then
the water falls slowly through a sieve and becomes cool & feed to the
compressor. At the other hand the cooled compressed air along with some
vapors are transferred to the reservoir where the vapors are condensed and
outlets drop by drop.
The moist compressed air is transferred to the dryer & a slight warm compresses
air is delivered to required sections of Beximco industrial park.
Capacity:
Total number of
Compressor
: 6
Capacity : 775 Lt/sec.
Pressure of deliver air : 8.5 bars (designed)
6.5 – 7.0 bars (actually produced)
Temperature of delivery
air
: 26ºC
The compressors deliver oil and moisture free compressed air.
Specification:
a) Name: Air compressor.
b) Brand name: Electronikon-ZR5
c) Manufacturer: ATLAS COPCO AIR POWER n.v. WILRIJK, BELGIUM.

119
d) Model: ZR5-50 & ZR-300
e) Type: Rotary screw type.
f) Year of manufacture: 1995
Parameters Set value
Unloading pressure 7.5 bar
Pressure difference 0.6 bar
Oil pressure 1.2bar
Motor running time 15 sec
Distribution:
1. The major consumption of compressed air is in weaving section.
2. To the looms for pick insertion (for Air jet loom).
3. To clean different section and machinery
4. To the sensors where pneumatic pressure required (computerized control
machines).
5. For the compensator movement.
6. Pneumatically controlled loading and unloading of yarn dyeing
machinery
7. Pneumatically controlled loading and unloading of different machinery.
Chilling and Air conditioning:
Facility:
The machine by which water is cooled down below its normal temperature (i.e. 9
– 9.5ºC) is called chiller. To chill water which is used at A/C plant to maintain
required amount of relative humidity and temp.
Capacity:
Number of Chiller: 4
Number of A/C plant: 3
Chiller capacity = (210 X 3 + 500 X 1) ton =1130 ton water.
Abrasion type chiller is used.
Specification:
1) Brand name: ENMAX ABSORPTION CHILLER.
2) Manufacturer: THERMAX LIMITED.
i. Absorption cooling division.
ii. CHINCHWARD, PUNE 411019 INDIA
3) Manufacturing date: July1997
4) Model: B211 (chiller no. 1, 2, 3)

120
DW500A(Chiller no. 4)
5) Capacity: 160 N.R.T. */hr (chiller no. 1, 2, 3 each)
400 N.R.T. */hr (chiller no. 4)
6) Steam pressure: 8 – 8.5 kg/cm sq.
7) Electrical specification: 415 v 3 ph 50 Hz.
8) Water inlet temp : 15ºC.
9) Water outlet temp: 9 – 9.5ºC
* N.R.T./hr = Normal Refrigerant Ton/hour.
(1 N.R.T. = 12,000 B.th.U exchanged or evaporated).
Refrigerant specification:
1. Lower shell pressure = 6.2 mm Hg (Absorbed +Evaporator)
2. Upper shell pressure = 49.8 mm Hg (Low temp. generator)
3. High temp. generator pressure = 671.5 mm Hg.
4. Dilute solution concentration = 58.6%
5. Medium solution concentration = 61.0%
6. Strong / concentrated solution concentration=63.4%
Distribution:
The maintenance of relative humidity and temp is very important for
weaving to reduce yarn breakage and produce quality fabric. The chiller and
A/C plant maintain required amount of relative humidity (80 – 85%) and temp
(22 – 26ºC) in weaving 1,2,3 section. warping, winding and Final inspection
section.
Water:
Facility:
Continuous supply of iron and hardness free water for BTL, BDL & BKL
must be ensured by pump.
Capacity:
Mainly two pumps are used for water pick up.
Pump Capacity Setup
Submersible pump – I 260m3
/hr Discharge value: 100% open
Submersible pump – II 204 m3/hr Discharge value: 100% open
Depth of pump: 140 ft.
Also pump for chemical dosing & centrifugal pump for yarn dyeing.
Chemicals used:
 Soda Ash.

121
 Manganese – di – Oxide.
 Grease or lubricant.
Distribution:
The major distributions of water are:
1. BTL dye house.
2. BKL dye house.
3. BDL
4. Boiler house for steam generation.
Gas:
The gas is supplied from Titas Gas.
Gas is used for steam production.
Gas is used for power generation.
Generally 36 m3
gases are required to produce 1 ton steam.
0.3 – 0.4 m3
Gas is required per KW electricity generation.
Cost:
Utility Cost
Electricity 4 Tk/ KW
Air 0.60 Tk/m3
Water 17Tk/m3.
Waste water 12 Tk/m3
Steam 500 Tk/ton.
Remarks:
Most utility are made of own machines. So the continuous supply is possible.
The costs of utilities are also less than government supply. For large project it
consumes more utilities.

122
Chapter
Store & Inventory
Control

123
STORE & INVENTORY CONTROL
INTRODUCTION:
Inventory is planning and execution involves participation by most of
the fundamental segment of business sales, production, purchase, finance and
accounting. Inventory is a wider sense is defined as any idle resource of an
enterprise how ever it is semi-finished packing spares and other stocked in order
to meet an expected demand or distribution.
OBJECTIVES OF INVENTORY CONTROL:
1) Financial activities:
a) To save amount of investment
b) To know the cash position
2) Property Protection:
a) Preventable waste
b) Insurable damage
c) Unauthorized use
3) Operating:
a) To obtain the best overall balance between production
and inventory carrying cost.
b) To minimize losses
c) To avoid stock out and to keep inventory holding
costs in costs in balance.
INVENTORY SYSTEMS:
For Raw Materials:
In this factory, Beximco Textiles Limited, raw materials are
yarn of different type, different count and of padma spinning section and some
time abroad. As according to Weaving section demand yarn is produced in
Padma spinning mills, Beximco Synthetics and some times from foreign country
and they are kept in the store for raw materials in accordance with type and
count. As like as polyester, cotton, lycra are kept separately and also to their
count variation. Inventory office keeps record of this raw materials amount, their
usage and storage.
Raw material partially received from production planning & directly from head
office.
Material receiving & inspection report (MRIR) is prepared. Receive quantity is
mentioned & noted down.
Department gives store requisition to warehouse.
As per requisition materials supplied & this record is noted down.
There is a software which is networking with various section where these
information are required. The software is Data tex.

124
For Spares:
Different spare parts of Weaving machines and other
equipments are kept in store as inventory so that there are no time and money
losses while it is being used. Here also Data tex software is used.
For Finished Goods:
Finished goods in Beximco Textiles are the Finished Fabric.
Finished fabrics are delivered to the garments section or to the buyer. Here also
Data tex software is used.
For Others:
--------------------------Say some thing----------------------
STORE ROOM:
There are four type store room in Beximco Knitting Limited.
a) Yarn Store.
a. Grey.
b. Dyed.
b) Fabric Store.
a. Greige.
b. Finished.
c) Main Store.
The main store room contain this following goods-
a) Size Chemicals.
b) Packing materials.
c) Stationary books.
d) Electrical & Mechanical parts.
e) All kinds of weaving parts.
FREQUENCY ON INVENTORY UPDATE:
 Monthly inventory control
 Annual inventory control
SCOPE OF INVENTROY CONTROL:
 Raw materials : Yarn (Grey & Dyed)
 Finished fabric
 Spare parts
 General store (Capital equipment, Accessories, Stationary,
Maintenance parts)

125
REMARKS:
 The space is noticed to be insufficient considerably.
 An expansion of space is thus desired for sound inventory.
 The department is computer oriented & connected by ERP.

Industrial Attachment of Beximco textiles limited (btl)

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