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A	
  Ride	
  Through	
  Cuba	
  
Transport	
  in	
  Cuba	
  from	
  the	
  perspec7ve	
  of	
  a	
  US	
  transporta7on	
  planner	
  
By:	
  Lewis	
  Thorwaldson	
  
Photos:	
  Brandy	
  Davis	
  &	
  Lewis	
  Thorwaldson	
  
	
  
Originally	
  presented	
  to	
  MTA	
  NYC	
  Transit	
  Department	
  of	
  Opera7ons	
  Planning	
  
September	
  2015	
  
Our	
  Route	
  
We	
  visited	
  Cuba	
  for	
  four	
  weeks	
  in	
  April	
  and	
  May	
  2015	
  as	
  part	
  of	
  a	
  larger	
  bicycle	
  trip	
  to	
  
South	
  America.	
  Our	
  rough	
  i7nerary	
  was	
  as	
  follows:	
  Fly	
  to	
  Havana	
  -­‐>	
  Bus	
  to	
  Viñales	
  -­‐>	
  
Bus	
  to	
  Baracoa	
  -­‐>Bicycle	
  southern	
  coast	
  -­‐>	
  Truck	
  to	
  Bayamo	
  -­‐>	
  Truck	
  to	
  Havana	
  
	
  
The	
  following	
  presenta7on	
  covers	
  at	
  a	
  high	
  level	
  what	
  I	
  learned	
  about	
  transporta7on	
  
in	
  Cuba	
  based	
  on	
  personal	
  observa7on	
  and	
  experience,	
  and	
  an	
  interview	
  with	
  an	
  
official	
  at	
  the	
  Ministry	
  of	
  Transport.	
  Separate	
  addenda	
  include	
  addi7onal	
  photos	
  of	
  
various	
  aspects	
  of	
  the	
  transporta7on	
  system.	
  	
  
There	
  is	
  a	
  very	
  strong	
  street	
  life	
  in	
  Havana	
  because	
  there	
  are	
  so	
  few	
  cars	
  
–	
  people	
  walk	
  around	
  all	
  over	
  the	
  streets,	
  with	
  the	
  excep7on	
  of	
  a	
  few	
  
arterials,	
  and	
  spend	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  7me	
  hanging	
  out	
  in	
  the	
  street.	
  
The	
  dominant	
  sound	
  you	
  hear	
  from	
  your	
  window	
  is	
  the	
  low	
  hum	
  of	
  
conversa7on	
  rather	
  than	
  the	
  whirrr	
  and	
  honking	
  of	
  cars.	
  
There	
  are	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  interes7ng	
  buildings	
  in	
  varying	
  states	
  of	
  disrepair.	
  
These	
  were	
  along	
  the	
  malecon.	
  	
  
Note	
  that	
  there	
  are	
  a	
  lot	
  buildings	
  in	
  Havana	
  that	
  have	
  been	
  maintained	
  
or	
  restored,	
  but	
  those	
  are	
  generally	
  in	
  the	
  more	
  touris7c	
  areas.	
  	
  
Our	
  casa	
  owner	
  
pulled	
  our	
  bikes	
  
up	
  to	
  the	
  third	
  
floor	
  by	
  hand.	
  	
  
	
  
We	
  had	
  
planned	
  to	
  put	
  
our	
  bikes	
  
together	
  at	
  the	
  
airport	
  and	
  ride	
  
into	
  town,	
  but	
  
had	
  a	
  problem	
  
with	
  one	
  of	
  
them	
  so	
  we	
  had	
  
to	
  spend	
  a	
  
fortune	
  on	
  a	
  
taxi.	
  
	
  
One	
  thing	
  to	
  understand	
  about	
  Cuba	
  is	
  
that	
  there	
  is	
  a	
  major	
  vehicle	
  shortage.	
  	
  
Aer	
  the	
  revolu7on,	
  the	
  US	
  and	
  our	
  allies	
  
cut	
  off	
  7es	
  to	
  the	
  country	
  and	
  stopped	
  
shipping	
  cars	
  or	
  parts.	
  
	
  	
  
They	
  were	
  able	
  to	
  supplement	
  the	
  fleet	
  
with	
  imports	
  from	
  the	
  Soviet	
  Union	
  un7l	
  
that	
  crumbled.	
  	
  
	
  
The	
  Reagan	
  administra7on	
  created	
  a	
  law	
  
that	
  barred	
  any	
  foreign	
  vessels	
  from	
  US	
  
ports	
  for	
  six	
  months	
  aer	
  landing	
  in	
  a	
  
Cuban	
  port.	
  	
  
	
  
This	
  effec7vely	
  means	
  that	
  barely	
  anyone	
  
will	
  trade	
  with	
  Cuba	
  because	
  the	
  
American	
  plum	
  is	
  just	
  too	
  juicy	
  to	
  risk	
  it.	
  	
  
	
  
China	
  does	
  nowadays	
  because	
  they	
  are	
  
kind	
  of	
  a	
  big	
  deal,	
  but	
  that	
  seems	
  to	
  be	
  
more	
  of	
  a	
  recent	
  thing.	
  	
  
	
  
No	
  parts	
  +	
  no	
  new	
  cars	
  =	
  what	
  we	
  have	
  
now…	
  
Iconic	
  Cuban	
  Classic	
  Car	
  
And	
  the	
  good	
  ol’	
  Lada	
  
The	
  Lada	
  style	
  is	
  the	
  most	
  typical	
  taxi	
  used	
  by	
  the	
  state	
  taxi	
  companies.	
  
The	
  Lada	
  is	
  actually	
  just	
  one	
  of	
  several	
  Soviet	
  car	
  brands,	
  but	
  I	
  just	
  
lump	
  them	
  all	
  together	
  because	
  I	
  like	
  to	
  say	
  Lada.	
  	
  
If	
  only	
  their	
  makers	
  could	
  have	
  been	
  the	
  same	
  way!	
  
All	
  living	
  together	
  in	
  harmony…	
  
It	
  also	
  means	
  that	
  there	
  are	
  VERY	
  few	
  cars	
  outside	
  of	
  ci7es,	
  which	
  is	
  
great	
  for	
  cycling.	
  	
  
Rush	
  Hour	
  in	
  Baracoa	
  
In	
  fact,	
  even	
  in	
  most	
  of	
  the	
  ci7es,	
  cycling	
  was	
  a	
  breeze.	
  
For	
  those	
  who	
  don’t	
  know,	
  Baracoa,	
  home	
  of	
  Che	
  Guevara	
  chocolate	
  
factory!	
  
We	
  ate	
  lots	
  of	
  cheap	
  chocolate	
  to	
  supplement	
  calories	
  for	
  cycling.	
  	
  
We	
  rarely	
  saw	
  any	
  cars	
  outside	
  the	
  city.	
  
Some	
  roads	
  were	
  in	
  excellent	
  condi7on…	
  	
  
Some,	
  not	
  so	
  much.	
  	
  
This	
  is	
  the	
  coast	
  road	
  between	
  San7ago	
  and	
  Niquero.	
  
It	
  is	
  a	
  des7na7on	
  for	
  cyclists	
  because	
  of	
  the	
  beauty	
  and	
  lack	
  of	
  traffic.	
  	
  
Of	
  course,	
  it	
  isn’t	
  a	
  very	
  important	
  road,	
  so	
  there	
  have	
  been	
  few	
  
repairs	
  of	
  hurricane	
  damage.	
  	
  
There	
  was	
  a	
  detour	
  through	
  the	
  dry	
  riverbed.	
  That	
  hopper	
  was	
  placed	
  
to	
  let	
  traffic	
  know	
  that	
  something	
  just	
  isn’t	
  quite	
  right.	
  
If	
  you	
  think	
  collectors	
  are	
  going	
  to	
  be	
  running	
  to	
  Cuba	
  once	
  we	
  open	
  
the	
  borders,	
  think	
  again.	
  	
  
With	
  no	
  parts,	
  it	
  takes	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  ingenuity	
  and	
  crasmanship	
  to	
  keep	
  
these	
  cars	
  running	
  –	
  there	
  isn’t	
  much	
  original	
  on	
  these	
  cars.	
  
Our	
  Lada	
  driver	
  to	
  the	
  airport	
  told	
  us	
  he	
  fixes	
  his	
  engine	
  belts	
  using	
  old	
  
shoe	
  soles.	
  	
  
Of	
  course,	
  this	
  vehicle	
  shortage	
  is	
  felt	
  in	
  the	
  transit	
  industry	
  as	
  well.	
  	
  
There	
  are	
  a	
  LOT	
  of	
  different	
  buses	
  on	
  the	
  road,	
  especially	
  in	
  the	
  rural	
  
areas.	
  These	
  state-­‐run	
  buses	
  generally	
  ran	
  fixed	
  routes	
  in	
  rural	
  areas	
  
to/from	
  ci7es.	
  	
  
Note	
  that	
  you	
  won’t	
  find	
  so	
  many	
  of	
  the	
  old	
  school	
  buses	
  like	
  you	
  do	
  in	
  
most	
  of	
  La7n	
  America	
  because,	
  well,	
  they	
  come	
  from	
  the	
  US.	
  
The	
  school	
  buses	
  are	
  all	
  state	
  run	
  and	
  transport	
  the	
  students	
  and	
  the	
  
teachers.	
  I	
  was	
  told	
  that	
  they	
  fill	
  in	
  on	
  the	
  regular	
  transit	
  lines	
  aer	
  
taking	
  the	
  students	
  in.	
  	
  
In	
  fact,	
  all	
  state	
  vehicles	
  are	
  required	
  help	
  fill	
  in	
  for	
  the	
  vehicle	
  
shortage.	
  
	
  
The	
  woman	
  I	
  interviewed	
  at	
  the	
  Ministry	
  of	
  Transporta7on	
  told	
  me	
  
that	
  if	
  she’s	
  driving	
  somewhere	
  and	
  has	
  space,	
  she	
  must	
  stop	
  at	
  pick	
  
up	
  points	
  to	
  take	
  passengers.	
  	
  
	
  
They	
  collect	
  the	
  fares	
  just	
  like	
  the	
  regular	
  bus.	
  
	
  
Speaking	
  of	
  fares,	
  they	
  are	
  quite	
  cheap,	
  	
  between	
  20	
  centavos	
  and	
  1	
  
peso	
  75,	
  which	
  is	
  about	
  1-­‐7	
  cents.	
  	
  
Not	
  all	
  of	
  the	
  buses	
  are	
  ancient	
  though.	
  They	
  have	
  gojen	
  some	
  new	
  
city	
  buses	
  from	
  China	
  	
  
Then	
  there	
  are	
  these	
  guys.	
  	
  
I	
  was	
  told	
  Omnibus	
  Nacional	
  is	
  intercity,	
  assuming	
  I	
  understood	
  
correctly,	
  and	
  they	
  do	
  say	
  Havana	
  (here	
  on	
  the	
  other	
  side	
  of	
  the	
  
country),	
  but	
  they	
  sure	
  do	
  look	
  like	
  urban	
  fixed-­‐route	
  service,	
  and	
  I	
  
never	
  saw	
  one	
  outside	
  of	
  town.	
  	
  
Here’s	
  one	
  that	
  is	
  actually	
  in	
  Havana	
  –	
  I	
  love	
  the	
  Playboy	
  Che	
  	
  
Here’s	
  how	
  the	
  tourists	
  get	
  around.	
  
These	
  are	
  what	
  you	
  get	
  with	
  your	
  all-­‐inclusive	
  tour	
  deals.	
  
Here’s	
  how	
  we	
  got	
  to	
  Baracoa	
  and	
  Viñales	
  –	
  the	
  Viazul.	
  This	
  is	
  the	
  
na7onal	
  intercity	
  tourist	
  bus	
  company.	
  Cubans	
  have	
  only	
  recently	
  been	
  
allowed	
  on	
  the	
  Viazul.	
  Prices	
  for	
  locals	
  are	
  lower	
  than	
  for	
  tourists.	
  
It’s	
  probably	
  not	
  as	
  plush	
  as	
  the	
  all-­‐inclusives,	
  but	
  it	
  was	
  s7ll	
  nice.	
  
$66	
  bucks	
  to	
  go	
  about	
  700	
  miles	
  across	
  the	
  country	
  seems	
  prejy	
  reasonable,	
  un7l	
  
you	
  consider	
  that	
  the	
  typical	
  doctor	
  or	
  lawyer	
  makes	
  about	
  $200	
  a	
  month	
  and	
  a	
  blue-­‐
collar	
  worker	
  takes	
  in	
  much	
  less.	
  
When	
  we’re	
  out	
  there	
  throwing	
  around	
  monthly	
  salaries	
  on	
  bus	
  rides,	
  it	
  starts	
  to	
  be	
  a	
  
lijle	
  less	
  wonder	
  that	
  so	
  many	
  Cubans	
  are	
  trying	
  to	
  get	
  something	
  out	
  of	
  you.	
  
This	
  is	
  what	
  you	
  face	
  geong	
  off	
  the	
  Viazul	
  –	
  all	
  the	
  touts	
  pushing	
  casas	
  
on	
  you.	
  
	
  
So	
  how	
  do	
  the	
  locals	
  get	
  around?	
  	
  
The	
  Astro	
  is	
  the	
  other	
  na7onal	
  bus	
  carrier.	
  	
  
Astro	
  is	
  supposed	
  to	
  be	
  for	
  Cubans,	
  but	
  we’ve	
  heard	
  tourists	
  can	
  pay	
  in	
  
tourist	
  money	
  to	
  ride	
  it.	
  We	
  were	
  turned	
  away	
  in	
  Manzanillo.	
  Like	
  
everything	
  in	
  Cuba,	
  I	
  think	
  it	
  depends	
  on	
  the	
  7me	
  and	
  place.	
  	
  
	
  
We	
  probably	
  would	
  have	
  been	
  charged	
  in	
  tourist	
  pesos,	
  so	
  even	
  if	
  we’d	
  
been	
  let	
  on	
  the	
  bus,	
  the	
  savings	
  wouldn’t	
  have	
  been	
  huge.	
  	
  
A	
  Note	
  on	
  Currency	
  
There	
  are	
  two	
  currencies	
  in	
  Cuba.	
  	
  
Conver7ble	
  (tourist)	
  pesos:	
  1	
  CUC	
  =	
  $1	
  USD	
  
Na7onal	
  pesos:	
  1	
  MN	
  =	
  24	
  CUC	
  (buying)	
  
	
  
Imported	
  goods	
  and	
  anything	
  marketed	
  to	
  tourists	
  
(casas,	
  hotels,	
  buses,	
  restaurants)	
  are	
  bought	
  with	
  
CUC.	
  Local	
  goods	
  are	
  in	
  MN.	
  Price	
  differences	
  can	
  
be	
  stunning.	
  A	
  tourist	
  meal	
  can	
  cost	
  6-­‐10	
  CUC.	
  A	
  
meal	
  at	
  a	
  local	
  restaurant	
  could	
  be	
  30-­‐100	
  MN.	
  A	
  
tourist	
  coffee	
  is	
  1-­‐3	
  CUC.	
  A	
  coffee	
  at	
  a	
  local	
  stand	
  is	
  
1-­‐2	
  MN.	
  	
  
Cuba	
  has	
  quite	
  a	
  comprehensive	
  train	
  system.	
  
	
  
We’ve	
  been	
  told	
  by	
  prejy	
  much	
  everyone	
  we	
  asked	
  that	
  it	
  is	
  “horrible”	
  
and	
  slow.	
  I	
  wanted	
  to	
  ride	
  it	
  anyway.	
  
Cuban	
  Train	
  Network	
  
It’s	
  cheap	
  –	
  that	
  32	
  
peso	
  price	
  from	
  
Guantanamo	
  to	
  
Havana	
  is	
  just	
  over	
  a	
  
buck	
  for	
  575	
  miles.	
  
	
  
We	
  tried	
  to	
  take	
  the	
  
train,	
  several	
  7mes,	
  
but	
  got	
  the	
  runaround	
  
from	
  people	
  who	
  
didn’t	
  know	
  the	
  
schedule	
  or	
  were	
  
otherwise	
  completely	
  
incompetent.	
  	
  
Schedules	
  change	
  frequently,	
  as	
  you	
  can	
  see	
  from	
  the	
  chalk	
  
schedule.	
  Again,	
  maintenance	
  is	
  a	
  huge	
  issue	
  and	
  they	
  are	
  
always	
  breaking	
  down.	
  	
  
I	
  wasn’t	
  allowed	
  in	
  to	
  take	
  any	
  photos	
  in	
  Guantanamo,	
  so	
  this	
  is	
  as	
  
close	
  as	
  I	
  ever	
  got	
  to	
  a	
  train.	
  	
  
Un7l	
  I	
  got	
  back	
  to	
  Havana	
  and	
  randomly	
  discovered	
  this.	
  
So	
  what	
  other	
  transport	
  is	
  there?	
  	
  
THE	
  PARTICULAR!	
  
Contrary	
  to	
  what	
  many	
  think,	
  there	
  IS	
  private	
  enterprise	
  in	
  Cuba,	
  called	
  
“par7cular”.	
  Lots	
  of	
  it.	
  	
  
From	
  the	
  casas	
  we	
  stayed	
  in	
  to	
  the	
  cane	
  juice	
  vendors…	
  
To	
  the	
  coffee	
  stalls…	
  
The	
  small-­‐holder	
  mango	
  farmer…	
  
Even	
  the	
  dudes	
  we	
  bought	
  cigars	
  from.	
  
In	
  fact,	
  most	
  of	
  the	
  non-­‐state	
  cars	
  on	
  the	
  road	
  are	
  par7culares	
  and	
  can	
  
be	
  iden7fied	
  by	
  the	
  P	
  plates.	
  
As	
  opposed	
  to	
  the	
  state’s	
  B	
  plates.	
  There	
  are	
  other	
  plates,	
  but	
  they	
  are	
  
much	
  more	
  rare.	
  	
  	
  
But	
  par7culares	
  don’t	
  have	
  to	
  be	
  a	
  car.	
  
They	
  can	
  be	
  bike	
  taxis.	
  
Horse	
  carts…	
  	
  
Motorcycles	
  or	
  whatever.	
  
All	
  you	
  have	
  to	
  do	
  is	
  prove	
  that	
  you	
  own	
  the	
  vehicle,	
  it’s	
  
func7onal	
  and	
  you	
  can	
  drive	
  and	
  you’ll	
  be	
  given	
  a	
  license	
  to	
  
operate	
  anywhere	
  in	
  Cuba	
  on	
  an	
  “oferta-­‐demanda”	
  basis,	
  or	
  
fix-­‐your-­‐own-­‐rate.	
  You	
  pay	
  taxes	
  and	
  social	
  security	
  like	
  a	
  
regular	
  employee,	
  but	
  that’s	
  it.	
  
	
  
I	
  was	
  actually	
  a	
  bit	
  surprised	
  to	
  hear	
  that	
  there	
  was	
  so	
  lijle	
  
restric7on	
  on	
  what	
  is	
  typically	
  an	
  overly	
  restricted	
  business	
  
elsewhere.	
  Most	
  of	
  the	
  old	
  American	
  cars	
  you	
  see	
  on	
  the	
  
roads,	
  the	
  ones	
  that	
  aren’t	
  spruced	
  up	
  for	
  tourists,	
  are	
  
running	
  as	
  collec7vos	
  on	
  fixed	
  routes.	
  
But	
  the	
  real	
  workhorses	
  are	
  the	
  trucks.	
  
They	
  are	
  cheap,	
  cramped	
  and	
  busy.	
  
The	
  short-­‐haul	
  intercity	
  ones	
  are	
  usually	
  covered,	
  but	
  the	
  sea7ng	
  is	
  just	
  four	
  basic	
  
metal	
  benches	
  along	
  the	
  back	
  where	
  hopefully	
  you’ll	
  get	
  the	
  window	
  benches,	
  unless	
  
it’s	
  raining.	
  
We	
  rode	
  one	
  of	
  these	
  two	
  hours	
  from	
  Manzanillo	
  to	
  Bayamo	
  for	
  a	
  buck	
  or	
  two.	
  
I	
  can’t	
  really	
  explain	
  why,	
  but	
  this	
  photo	
  really	
  does	
  a	
  good	
  job	
  of	
  
encapsula7ng	
  a	
  lot	
  of	
  the	
  essence	
  of	
  Cuba	
  for	
  us.	
  	
  
The	
  longer-­‐distance	
  trucks	
  are	
  more	
  fully	
  enclosed	
  and	
  have	
  old	
  coach	
  
seats	
  inside.	
  
This	
  is	
  the	
  one	
  we	
  took	
  back	
  to	
  Havana	
  from	
  Bayamo	
  (460	
  miles)	
  for	
  
about	
  $8.	
  	
  
Of	
  course,	
  we	
  had	
  to	
  wait	
  several	
  hours	
  for	
  him	
  to	
  fill	
  up.	
  
And	
  we	
  had	
  to	
  take	
  a	
  break	
  for	
  some	
  minor	
  repairs.	
  
Actually,	
  I	
  suspect	
  it	
  was	
  rou7ne	
  maintenance	
  they	
  fit	
  in	
  whenever	
  
they’re	
  passing	
  home.	
  
The	
  White	
  Whale	
  
The	
  “camel”	
  is	
  my	
  white	
  whale.	
  I	
  had	
  to	
  pull	
  this	
  photo	
  off	
  the	
  internet	
  
because	
  I	
  never	
  got	
  one.	
  I	
  spojed	
  one	
  from	
  the	
  Viazul	
  once,	
  and	
  
another	
  7me	
  saw	
  one	
  pass	
  by	
  when	
  I	
  was	
  bonking	
  on	
  a	
  hill	
  and	
  didn’t	
  
get	
  my	
  camera	
  in	
  7me.	
  	
  
Addenda	
  
See	
  the	
  following	
  presenta7ons	
  for	
  addi7onal	
  
photos	
  from	
  the	
  Cuban	
  transporta7on	
  system	
  
o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/
cuba-­‐cars-­‐2015	
  	
  
o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/
cuba-­‐buses-­‐stops-­‐2015	
  
o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/
cuba-­‐trucks-­‐2015	
  
o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/
cuba-­‐bikes-­‐etc-­‐2015	
  	
  
© 2015 by Lewis Thorwaldson
Except otherwise noted, this work is licensed under the Creative
Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International
License. To view a copy of this license, visit:
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/.
“Camel Bus in Havana” photo (Slide 81) is a derivative of a photo by
Wikipedia user ‘Panther’ under CC BY-SA. “Camel Bus in Havana” is
licensed under CC BY-SA by Wikipedia user ‘Vladsinger’.
https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Camel_bus_in_Havana.jpg
All other photos are by Brandy Davis & Lewis Thorwaldson and
licensed by CC BY-NC-ND:
http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/.
To request original photos or copyright exemptions email: [my last
name] at gmail.com

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A Ride Through Cuba 2015 - Transport in Cuba from the Perspective of a US Transportation Planner

  • 1. A  Ride  Through  Cuba   Transport  in  Cuba  from  the  perspec7ve  of  a  US  transporta7on  planner   By:  Lewis  Thorwaldson   Photos:  Brandy  Davis  &  Lewis  Thorwaldson     Originally  presented  to  MTA  NYC  Transit  Department  of  Opera7ons  Planning   September  2015  
  • 2. Our  Route   We  visited  Cuba  for  four  weeks  in  April  and  May  2015  as  part  of  a  larger  bicycle  trip  to   South  America.  Our  rough  i7nerary  was  as  follows:  Fly  to  Havana  -­‐>  Bus  to  Viñales  -­‐>   Bus  to  Baracoa  -­‐>Bicycle  southern  coast  -­‐>  Truck  to  Bayamo  -­‐>  Truck  to  Havana     The  following  presenta7on  covers  at  a  high  level  what  I  learned  about  transporta7on   in  Cuba  based  on  personal  observa7on  and  experience,  and  an  interview  with  an   official  at  the  Ministry  of  Transport.  Separate  addenda  include  addi7onal  photos  of   various  aspects  of  the  transporta7on  system.    
  • 3. There  is  a  very  strong  street  life  in  Havana  because  there  are  so  few  cars   –  people  walk  around  all  over  the  streets,  with  the  excep7on  of  a  few   arterials,  and  spend  a  lot  of  7me  hanging  out  in  the  street.  
  • 4. The  dominant  sound  you  hear  from  your  window  is  the  low  hum  of   conversa7on  rather  than  the  whirrr  and  honking  of  cars.  
  • 5.
  • 6. There  are  a  lot  of  interes7ng  buildings  in  varying  states  of  disrepair.   These  were  along  the  malecon.    
  • 7. Note  that  there  are  a  lot  buildings  in  Havana  that  have  been  maintained   or  restored,  but  those  are  generally  in  the  more  touris7c  areas.    
  • 8. Our  casa  owner   pulled  our  bikes   up  to  the  third   floor  by  hand.       We  had   planned  to  put   our  bikes   together  at  the   airport  and  ride   into  town,  but   had  a  problem   with  one  of   them  so  we  had   to  spend  a   fortune  on  a   taxi.    
  • 9. One  thing  to  understand  about  Cuba  is   that  there  is  a  major  vehicle  shortage.     Aer  the  revolu7on,  the  US  and  our  allies   cut  off  7es  to  the  country  and  stopped   shipping  cars  or  parts.       They  were  able  to  supplement  the  fleet   with  imports  from  the  Soviet  Union  un7l   that  crumbled.       The  Reagan  administra7on  created  a  law   that  barred  any  foreign  vessels  from  US   ports  for  six  months  aer  landing  in  a   Cuban  port.       This  effec7vely  means  that  barely  anyone   will  trade  with  Cuba  because  the   American  plum  is  just  too  juicy  to  risk  it.       China  does  nowadays  because  they  are   kind  of  a  big  deal,  but  that  seems  to  be   more  of  a  recent  thing.       No  parts  +  no  new  cars  =  what  we  have   now…  
  • 11.
  • 12.
  • 13.
  • 14. And  the  good  ol’  Lada  
  • 15.
  • 16. The  Lada  style  is  the  most  typical  taxi  used  by  the  state  taxi  companies.   The  Lada  is  actually  just  one  of  several  Soviet  car  brands,  but  I  just   lump  them  all  together  because  I  like  to  say  Lada.    
  • 17. If  only  their  makers  could  have  been  the  same  way!   All  living  together  in  harmony…  
  • 18. It  also  means  that  there  are  VERY  few  cars  outside  of  ci7es,  which  is   great  for  cycling.    
  • 19. Rush  Hour  in  Baracoa   In  fact,  even  in  most  of  the  ci7es,  cycling  was  a  breeze.  
  • 20. For  those  who  don’t  know,  Baracoa,  home  of  Che  Guevara  chocolate   factory!   We  ate  lots  of  cheap  chocolate  to  supplement  calories  for  cycling.    
  • 21. We  rarely  saw  any  cars  outside  the  city.  
  • 22.
  • 23. Some  roads  were  in  excellent  condi7on…    
  • 24. Some,  not  so  much.    
  • 25. This  is  the  coast  road  between  San7ago  and  Niquero.   It  is  a  des7na7on  for  cyclists  because  of  the  beauty  and  lack  of  traffic.    
  • 26. Of  course,  it  isn’t  a  very  important  road,  so  there  have  been  few   repairs  of  hurricane  damage.     There  was  a  detour  through  the  dry  riverbed.  That  hopper  was  placed   to  let  traffic  know  that  something  just  isn’t  quite  right.  
  • 27. If  you  think  collectors  are  going  to  be  running  to  Cuba  once  we  open   the  borders,  think  again.     With  no  parts,  it  takes  a  lot  of  ingenuity  and  crasmanship  to  keep   these  cars  running  –  there  isn’t  much  original  on  these  cars.   Our  Lada  driver  to  the  airport  told  us  he  fixes  his  engine  belts  using  old   shoe  soles.    
  • 28. Of  course,  this  vehicle  shortage  is  felt  in  the  transit  industry  as  well.    
  • 29. There  are  a  LOT  of  different  buses  on  the  road,  especially  in  the  rural   areas.  These  state-­‐run  buses  generally  ran  fixed  routes  in  rural  areas   to/from  ci7es.    
  • 30.
  • 31.
  • 32. Note  that  you  won’t  find  so  many  of  the  old  school  buses  like  you  do  in   most  of  La7n  America  because,  well,  they  come  from  the  US.  
  • 33.
  • 34.
  • 35.
  • 36.
  • 37. The  school  buses  are  all  state  run  and  transport  the  students  and  the   teachers.  I  was  told  that  they  fill  in  on  the  regular  transit  lines  aer   taking  the  students  in.    
  • 38. In  fact,  all  state  vehicles  are  required  help  fill  in  for  the  vehicle   shortage.     The  woman  I  interviewed  at  the  Ministry  of  Transporta7on  told  me   that  if  she’s  driving  somewhere  and  has  space,  she  must  stop  at  pick   up  points  to  take  passengers.       They  collect  the  fares  just  like  the  regular  bus.     Speaking  of  fares,  they  are  quite  cheap,    between  20  centavos  and  1   peso  75,  which  is  about  1-­‐7  cents.    
  • 39. Not  all  of  the  buses  are  ancient  though.  They  have  gojen  some  new   city  buses  from  China    
  • 40.
  • 41. Then  there  are  these  guys.    
  • 42. I  was  told  Omnibus  Nacional  is  intercity,  assuming  I  understood   correctly,  and  they  do  say  Havana  (here  on  the  other  side  of  the   country),  but  they  sure  do  look  like  urban  fixed-­‐route  service,  and  I   never  saw  one  outside  of  town.    
  • 43. Here’s  one  that  is  actually  in  Havana  –  I  love  the  Playboy  Che    
  • 44. Here’s  how  the  tourists  get  around.   These  are  what  you  get  with  your  all-­‐inclusive  tour  deals.  
  • 45.
  • 46. Here’s  how  we  got  to  Baracoa  and  Viñales  –  the  Viazul.  This  is  the   na7onal  intercity  tourist  bus  company.  Cubans  have  only  recently  been   allowed  on  the  Viazul.  Prices  for  locals  are  lower  than  for  tourists.  
  • 47. It’s  probably  not  as  plush  as  the  all-­‐inclusives,  but  it  was  s7ll  nice.   $66  bucks  to  go  about  700  miles  across  the  country  seems  prejy  reasonable,  un7l   you  consider  that  the  typical  doctor  or  lawyer  makes  about  $200  a  month  and  a  blue-­‐ collar  worker  takes  in  much  less.   When  we’re  out  there  throwing  around  monthly  salaries  on  bus  rides,  it  starts  to  be  a   lijle  less  wonder  that  so  many  Cubans  are  trying  to  get  something  out  of  you.  
  • 48. This  is  what  you  face  geong  off  the  Viazul  –  all  the  touts  pushing  casas   on  you.     So  how  do  the  locals  get  around?    
  • 49. The  Astro  is  the  other  na7onal  bus  carrier.     Astro  is  supposed  to  be  for  Cubans,  but  we’ve  heard  tourists  can  pay  in   tourist  money  to  ride  it.  We  were  turned  away  in  Manzanillo.  Like   everything  in  Cuba,  I  think  it  depends  on  the  7me  and  place.       We  probably  would  have  been  charged  in  tourist  pesos,  so  even  if  we’d   been  let  on  the  bus,  the  savings  wouldn’t  have  been  huge.    
  • 50. A  Note  on  Currency   There  are  two  currencies  in  Cuba.     Conver7ble  (tourist)  pesos:  1  CUC  =  $1  USD   Na7onal  pesos:  1  MN  =  24  CUC  (buying)     Imported  goods  and  anything  marketed  to  tourists   (casas,  hotels,  buses,  restaurants)  are  bought  with   CUC.  Local  goods  are  in  MN.  Price  differences  can   be  stunning.  A  tourist  meal  can  cost  6-­‐10  CUC.  A   meal  at  a  local  restaurant  could  be  30-­‐100  MN.  A   tourist  coffee  is  1-­‐3  CUC.  A  coffee  at  a  local  stand  is   1-­‐2  MN.    
  • 51. Cuba  has  quite  a  comprehensive  train  system.     We’ve  been  told  by  prejy  much  everyone  we  asked  that  it  is  “horrible”   and  slow.  I  wanted  to  ride  it  anyway.   Cuban  Train  Network  
  • 52. It’s  cheap  –  that  32   peso  price  from   Guantanamo  to   Havana  is  just  over  a   buck  for  575  miles.     We  tried  to  take  the   train,  several  7mes,   but  got  the  runaround   from  people  who   didn’t  know  the   schedule  or  were   otherwise  completely   incompetent.    
  • 53. Schedules  change  frequently,  as  you  can  see  from  the  chalk   schedule.  Again,  maintenance  is  a  huge  issue  and  they  are   always  breaking  down.    
  • 54. I  wasn’t  allowed  in  to  take  any  photos  in  Guantanamo,  so  this  is  as   close  as  I  ever  got  to  a  train.    
  • 55. Un7l  I  got  back  to  Havana  and  randomly  discovered  this.  
  • 56.
  • 57. So  what  other  transport  is  there?    
  • 58. THE  PARTICULAR!   Contrary  to  what  many  think,  there  IS  private  enterprise  in  Cuba,  called   “par7cular”.  Lots  of  it.    
  • 59. From  the  casas  we  stayed  in  to  the  cane  juice  vendors…  
  • 60. To  the  coffee  stalls…  
  • 62. Even  the  dudes  we  bought  cigars  from.  
  • 63.
  • 64. In  fact,  most  of  the  non-­‐state  cars  on  the  road  are  par7culares  and  can   be  iden7fied  by  the  P  plates.  
  • 65. As  opposed  to  the  state’s  B  plates.  There  are  other  plates,  but  they  are   much  more  rare.      
  • 66. But  par7culares  don’t  have  to  be  a  car.  
  • 67. They  can  be  bike  taxis.  
  • 68.
  • 69.
  • 71.
  • 73. All  you  have  to  do  is  prove  that  you  own  the  vehicle,  it’s   func7onal  and  you  can  drive  and  you’ll  be  given  a  license  to   operate  anywhere  in  Cuba  on  an  “oferta-­‐demanda”  basis,  or   fix-­‐your-­‐own-­‐rate.  You  pay  taxes  and  social  security  like  a   regular  employee,  but  that’s  it.     I  was  actually  a  bit  surprised  to  hear  that  there  was  so  lijle   restric7on  on  what  is  typically  an  overly  restricted  business   elsewhere.  Most  of  the  old  American  cars  you  see  on  the   roads,  the  ones  that  aren’t  spruced  up  for  tourists,  are   running  as  collec7vos  on  fixed  routes.  
  • 74. But  the  real  workhorses  are  the  trucks.  
  • 75. They  are  cheap,  cramped  and  busy.   The  short-­‐haul  intercity  ones  are  usually  covered,  but  the  sea7ng  is  just  four  basic   metal  benches  along  the  back  where  hopefully  you’ll  get  the  window  benches,  unless   it’s  raining.   We  rode  one  of  these  two  hours  from  Manzanillo  to  Bayamo  for  a  buck  or  two.  
  • 76. I  can’t  really  explain  why,  but  this  photo  really  does  a  good  job  of   encapsula7ng  a  lot  of  the  essence  of  Cuba  for  us.    
  • 77. The  longer-­‐distance  trucks  are  more  fully  enclosed  and  have  old  coach   seats  inside.  
  • 78. This  is  the  one  we  took  back  to  Havana  from  Bayamo  (460  miles)  for   about  $8.    
  • 79. Of  course,  we  had  to  wait  several  hours  for  him  to  fill  up.  
  • 80. And  we  had  to  take  a  break  for  some  minor  repairs.   Actually,  I  suspect  it  was  rou7ne  maintenance  they  fit  in  whenever   they’re  passing  home.  
  • 81. The  White  Whale   The  “camel”  is  my  white  whale.  I  had  to  pull  this  photo  off  the  internet   because  I  never  got  one.  I  spojed  one  from  the  Viazul  once,  and   another  7me  saw  one  pass  by  when  I  was  bonking  on  a  hill  and  didn’t   get  my  camera  in  7me.    
  • 82. Addenda   See  the  following  presenta7ons  for  addi7onal   photos  from  the  Cuban  transporta7on  system   o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/ cuba-­‐cars-­‐2015     o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/ cuba-­‐buses-­‐stops-­‐2015   o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/ cuba-­‐trucks-­‐2015   o  hjp://www.slideshare.net/LewisThorwaldson/ cuba-­‐bikes-­‐etc-­‐2015    
  • 83. © 2015 by Lewis Thorwaldson Except otherwise noted, this work is licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial-NoDerivatives 4.0 International License. To view a copy of this license, visit: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. “Camel Bus in Havana” photo (Slide 81) is a derivative of a photo by Wikipedia user ‘Panther’ under CC BY-SA. “Camel Bus in Havana” is licensed under CC BY-SA by Wikipedia user ‘Vladsinger’. https://commons.wikimedia.org/wiki/File:Camel_bus_in_Havana.jpg All other photos are by Brandy Davis & Lewis Thorwaldson and licensed by CC BY-NC-ND: http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by-nc-nd/4.0/. To request original photos or copyright exemptions email: [my last name] at gmail.com