Lecture for Virtu subject VDIS10047 Fashion Marketing A Designers Guide to Marketing Research presentation

1. A Designers Guide to Research
VDIS10047 Fashion Marketing by Ron Newman

2. This lecture on Research of the consumer and consumer
market is broadly based on a paper written by Scott
Young, President of Perception Research Services in New
Jersey, USA. Scott Young regularly authors articles on
packaging and point-of-sale research for publications
such as Brand Packaging, Package Design, Marketing at
Retail and The Design Management Journal.

3. Although focussed on general retail research the
principles expressed in Young’s paper are relevant to
fashion products because so much of fashion design ends
up in general retail outlets. The paper also offers a
counterpoint to the issues of “high” branded fashion
design that still undertakes and uses traditional marketing
research to extend and support their brands.

4. “
Some'mes
I
am
led
to
think
that
research
into
customer
behaviour
is
almost
an'
design
taking
away
the
intui've
thinking
of
the
designer
who
responds
to
a
well
thought
out
design
brief
or
a
perceived
need;
some'mes
I
think
that
if
we
just
respond
to
what
the
customer
thinks
he
or
she
wants
then
there
will
be
no
new
ideas
because
customers
are
renowned
for
only
thinking
in
the
context
of
what
already
exists.
In
this
lecture
I
wish
to
cause
you
to
think
about
consumer
research
and
how
it
does
or
does
not
drive
design.

5. We
constantly
come
across
consumer
research
that
may
or
may
not
be
flawed
and
as
designers
we
will
have
to
find
our
way
through
it,
Recently
I
found:
Consumer
Research
Roundup:
7
Studies
Explaining
Why
You
Buy,
Why
You
Have
No
Free
Time,
and
Why
a
Designer
Good
Purchase
Can
Snowball:
theories
as
to
why
the
layout
of
IKEA
stores
is
so
damn
confusing,
and
why
the
presence
of
a
Walmart
in
a
neighbourhood
may
have
caused
the
locals
to
gain
weight.

6. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
Walmart
makes
you
fat.
Two
economists
traced
a
decade’s
worth
of
health
and
popula'on
data
(between
1996
and
2005),
and
found
that
the
opening
of
a
Walmart
supercenter
coincided
with
a
weight
gain
of
1.5
pounds
for
the
average
person
living
nearby,
and
the
obesity
rate
rose
2.3%.
(One
ques'on:
How
much
did
the
overall
obesity
rate
go
up
during
that
same
'me
period?)

7. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
The
“last-­‐name
effect”
makes
one
more
eager
to
buy.
If
a
surname
begins
with
an
end
of
the
alphabet
leZer
(R
to
Z),
then
these
people
have
become
accustomed
to
standing
on
the
back
of
the
line
since
grade
school.
Research
indicates
the
result
of
this
wait-­‐your-­‐turn,
there
are
consumers
who
have
never
goZen
over
the
feeling
of
losing
out
and
not
ge]ng
first
pick,
who
decide
to
purchase
goods
much
faster
with
less
thought
than
their
early-­‐in-­‐the-­‐alphabet
counterparts.
XZ

8. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
IKEA
is
designed
to
be
confusing—to
spur
on
impulse
buying.
UK
theories
say
that
the
zig-­‐zagging,
maze-­‐like
design
of
IKEA
stores
is
inten'onally
confusing.
Picture
the
typical
IKEA
customer
who
stumbles
upon
an
item
that
seems
somewhat
interes'ng.
Scared
that
they
will
never
be
able
to
find
their
way
back
through
the
maze
and
find
the
item
later,
they
pick
it
up
even
before
being
sure
they
really
want
it.
That’s
exactly
what
IKEA
wants
to
happen.

9. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
The
more
you
earn,
the
more
you
feel
pressed
for
Sme.
People
don’t
necessarily
feel
rushed
based
strictly
on
the
ra'o
of
hours
worked
versus
free
'me.
Instead,
studies
show
that
a
rise
in
income
generally
coincides
with
a
rise
in
'me
pressure,
and
it’s
not
just
because
people
who
make
more
have
to
work
more;
because
some'mes,
they
don’t.
The
idea
is
that
as
people
earn
more,
they
value
their
'me
more,
and
therefore
they’re
more
likely
to
get
stressed
about
a
lack
of
'me.
$$

10. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
High-­‐end
logos
sales
actually
grew
more
prominent
during
the
recession.
The
widespread
assump'on
was
that
flashy,
conspicuous
consumer
behavior
was
distasteful
during
the
heart
of
the
recession.
A
more
subdued
approach
was
called
for!
However
between
January
2008
and
May
2009,
Gucci
and
Louis
VuiZon
made
the
brand
logos
on
their
handbags
even
more
pronounced
and
iden'fiable,
according
to
marke'ng
researchers
who
undertook
a
study.

11. We
are
told
that
studies
indicate
that
…
You
will
spend
money
to
gain
social
acceptance.
In
a
series
of
experiments,
par'cipants
who
felt
socially
ostracized
were
more
likely
to
buy
goods
that
made
them
feel
like
part
of
a
group,
such
as
a
school
spirit
wristband.
When
paired
with
a
partner,
those
who
had
been
made
to
feel
socially
excluded
were
also
more
apt
to
buy
whatever
the
partner
wanted
to
buy.
Read
more:
hZp://business.'me.com/2011/02/28/consumer-­‐research-­‐roundup-­‐7-­‐studies-­‐explaining-­‐why-­‐you-­‐buy-­‐why-­‐you-­‐have-­‐no-­‐free-­‐'me-­‐and-­‐
why-­‐a-­‐designer-­‐good-­‐purchase-­‐can-­‐snowball/#ixzz2PwCfdRfg
$$

12. Scott Young believes that to too many designers, the word
"research" conjures up visions of their work dissected by
housewives turned art directors - or being buried in a mind
- numbing sea of numbers and data tables. However,
Scott believes as marketers recognise the power of
design, consumer research is playing a larger role in the
development and assessment of all forms of design, from
packaging and point - of - purchase to direct mail, logos
and Websites.

13. In fact, many designers are realising that documenting the
value of their work (via consumer feedback) is critical to
earning the respect, recognition (and income) they
deserve. Unfortunately, many researchers have limited
experience in working with design - and are unable to
provide designers with the actionable, constructive
feedback they need. With this problem in mind, Scott
offers several observations and suggestions for insuring
accurate, insightful consumer feedback.

14. Mistakes that often compromise the value of research:
Using Research Only as a "Disaster Check"
Far too often, customer research is used only as a
"disaster check" before investing in a new design system,
rather than a source of insight and guidance throughout
the design process. Actionable research should take place
prior to creative work. Better understanding of consumers’
priorities and shopping patterns - the strengths and
limitations of current designs can clarify objectives.

15. Mistakes that often compromise the value of research:
Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions
While focus groups are much maligned, they remain the
fastest, most cost-efficient way to speak with consumers.
They also have several advantages relative to surveys, in
that they offer a "hands-on" experience for designers (via
one-way mirror) - and the flexibility to discuss many
design alternatives and communication issues. For these
reasons, focus groups will always remain popular.

16. Mistakes that often compromise the value of research:
Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions
Unfortunately, focus groups are often misused to make
final assessments and "go/no-go" design decisions. This
is a mistake, due to the relatively small number of
customers involved and the nature of the focus group
setting. By definition, focus groups involve forced,
extended exposure to designs outside the context in
which they will appear in real life.

17. Mistakes that often compromise the value of research:
Using Focus Groups to Make Final Decisions
Scott Young gives the example of focus group participants
who consistently praised an attractive new package for a
leading brand of vinegar. When the new packaging hit the
stores, sales dropped immediately and sharply. Studies
revealed shoppers had difficulty finding the new package on
shelves, and many loyal users mistakenly believed the new
design indicated an unwanted change in the product itself.

18. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Guidelines for Effective Design Research
Given the need for survey research, Scott Young says the
challenge is to insure that research provides accurate,
insightful and actionable feedback. Certainly, there is not
a single "formula" for doing so. Research programs
should be customised to address specific marketing and
design objectives - rather than "forcing" each design into a
standardised methodology and set of measures.

19. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Representative Design Stimulus
The quickest way to kill a good idea is to show it to
consumers before its time. Designers are often forced to
submit rough sketches for use in quantitative studies, with
predictable (i.e. negative) results. This is also an
enormous challenge in research related to structural
design, as the cost of making functional prototypes or
simulating retail environments is often prohibitive.

20. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Representative Design Stimulus
Computer - based design stimulus does not always
provide acceptable resolution and colour fidelity. While
there aren't any easy solutions, it is important that
designers work with clients and researchers to ensure that
the stimulus "does justice" to their concepts. It is better to
have agreed design stimulus before the study than a
disputed and/or misleading findings.

21. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
A Monadic Research Design (Avoid "Beauty Contests")
The most accurate findings and insights come from
monadic studies, in which each person is shown only one
design option for a product or brand - and responses from
the people who saw Design A are later compared to those
from people who saw Design B or Design C. "Beauty
contests” in which several design options are shown and
compared don’t work.

22. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
A Monadic Research Design (Avoid "Beauty Contests")
When people see several designs for the same brand, they
tend to lose their perspective as consumers evaluating
brands and products; and instead simply pick the most
attractive design. Unfortunately, the most attractive design
system is not always the most effective design, as it may
fail to communicate key product benefits and/or reflect
desired brand imagery.

23. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Measures of Visibility and Consideration
In nearly all instances, designers are given a fixed amount
of space and challenged to create materials which gain and
hold consumers’ attention. This first hurdle, gaining
consideration, should not be taken for granted. Scott
Young’s research indicates people typically spend under 10
seconds at most grocery categories, and typically fail to see
and consider over 1/3 of the brands in each category.

24. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Measures of Visibility and Consideration
For a design system to be effective, it must break through
clutter (a crowded shelf, a group of signs, a series of
products), hold attention long enough to give a message.
Design research has to involve behavioural research.
Forcing people to consider a design and asking their
opinion fails to account for the reality of the viewing
experience, and only gets half of the communication story.

25. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Actionable Diagnostic Guidance
Research should assist design rather than merely assess it.
It is a mistake to reduce research to a "scorecard" of pre-
determined standards, to replace a comprehensive study
with "simulated shopping.” Young found comprehensive
studies addressing "hurdles" to effective design (visibility,
aesthetic appeal, design attributes, brand perceptions) likely
to identify diagnostic guidance for "fine-tuning" designs.

26. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Using Design Research as a Source of Competitive
Advantage
While few designers question the value of speaking with
consumers, only a few designers have a full, systematic
commitment to research. Consumer insight remains one
way in which designers can distinguish themselves from
competitors, enhancing and documenting the effectiveness
of their work.

27. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
View Research as a Resource, Rather than a Threat
The key to using research constructively is gathering
consumer feedback throughout the design process. For
some designers, this means exploring pre-design research
and qualitative research early in the design process. For
others, it involves moving beyond focus groups, to gather
the insights which only survey research can provide.

28. Positive measures to realise the value of research:
Incorporate Research within Project Planning
Finally, Scott Young says the major barrier to conducting
research properly is frequently timing, rather than budget
constraints. If research is not built into design schedules
from the beginning, it is rare that clients can find the 3 to 4
weeks needed for a study. Coordinating research from the
beginning, to incorporate research into proposals and
project timelines, is critical to using research effectively.”

29. And so the previous pages offer some summaries into how
design research is approached in the market place and it is
clear that the role of consumer research is still much argued
and that there are differing views on the accuracy of the
outcomes of the research. What is not in doubt is that a
design brief informed by a real understanding of the market
requirements will always help the designer to a better result.

30. A Designers Guide to Research
VDIS10047 Fashion Marketing by Ron Newman