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MMy original vision for Wine and Jazz
magazine was to produce a publication
that equaled and eventually surpassed
the quality of my family’s multi-award
winning Powerboat Magazine, which
we published from 1968 through
2005. Although WAJ has yet to receive
official accolades from our publishing
peers in the form of industry awards
(we are relatively new on the scene after
all!), the changes you see withVintage
2,Track 3 represent another giant step
closer to reaching that goal.
The first upgrades you’ve probably
noticed are that our magazine is thicker
and has a glued binding.We significantly
increased the number of pages by
including more editorial and photos.
I wanted to give you a magazine that
looks, feels and reads more like a coffee
table book—a magazine you’ll want to
display, enjoy at your own pace, show
off to your friends, and regularly refer to
for more information about this perfect
lifestyle combination.
You may recall Melissa Chavez,
whose first editorial contribution
to WAJ was last issue’s wine region
story on Sonoma County. She did
such a great job we not only invited
her back, but augmented her writing
responsibility five-fold. Looking
forward, in every issue of WAJ, Melissa
will bring us regional wine features for
each of California’s “top five”: Sonoma,
Napa, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, and
Temecula. In future issues, WAJ will
be exploring other wine regions in
California, Oregon,Washington, and
NewYork, to name a few.
From our debut issue, Cameron
Smith took the reins of our “Jazz
Juice” column, giving us heaps of
fun insights into his globe-trotting,
jazz celebrity-filled lifestyle.Thanks
Cameron! I want to thank you for the
rollicking ride.You are one cool dude
and will be missed. After this fond
farewell to Cameron, I am ecstatic
to inform you we now have a new
columnist on board.To downplay it a
bit (then knock your socks off!), she is
one cool and musically talented artist:
the legendary jazz vocalist, two-time
Grammy-winner andTony-winning
stage actress, the great Dee Dee
Bridgewater. I am thrilled that such an
accomplished singer and actress has
agreed to write for WAJ.Whew, I need
to pause now to catch my breath.…
We’ve got something really good
fermenting here! And, we’re getting
close to developing the ideal blend of
wine and jazz and writers and editorial
and images to create what I hope will
be a magazine that, not only stands out
creatively with our own unique look and
voice, but stands head and shoulders
above the rest.This is a challenging
endeavor as, unlike other publications,
we have two discerning audiences to
inform and inspire—therefore, two
magazine genres to compete in rather
than one.This unique challenge is part
of what makes WAJ so rewarding for me.
The other part is the universally positive
feedback and encouragement I get from
both sides of the aisle—wine lovers of
all stripes, along with jazz aficionados,
both in the business and fans.
Lastly, recognition must go out to
a person who works quietly behind the
scenes, yet is as vital to the quality of
our final WAJ product as any of us. A
special thank you to our copy editor,
Diane Browning.
Enough said by me. Please enjoy
our enhanced WAJ magazine!
~ MIKE NORDSKOG
LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER
the ideal blend
PHOTO:HeatherVanGaale
www.WineandJazz.comLetterfromthePublisher
6
~ MIKE NORDSKOG
PUBLISHER’S PICK:
Dry Creek Vineyard 2006
Beeson Ranch Zinfandel
Dee Dee Bridgewater
Eleanora Fagan (1917-1959):
To Billie With Love From Dee Dee
{
apa Valley embodies all that is glamorous
about the world of fine wine. Extravagant
architecture, formal gardens, and uninterrupted
rows of meticulously tended vines suggest that California’s
spin on New World winemaking is not only tame, but a
terribly civilized business.
Though it boasts a supersized reputation, in terms
of actual size the Napa Valley is not nearly as large as it
seems. Little more than ten percent the size of Bordeaux,
the French winemaking region to which it is most often
compared, Napa Valley is less than five miles across at
its widest point and only 30 miles in length. Extending
diagonally northwest to southeast, this legendary valley is
delineated by the Mayacamas Mountains on the west and
the Vaca Mountains to the east.
Climate and soil variation along this 30-mile stretch
of terroir create a generous palette of wine flavors to
please even the most finicky artisan winemaker. The
climate here is warm by day, especially along the northern
sector of this valley which ends near the lively spa town
of Calistoga. Heat-loving grapes like cabernet sauvignon
and merlot flourish here and continue to excel down the
length of the valley. World class wines are crafted from
grapes grown in the soils surrounding the wine town of
Rutherford, only to be outdone by wines harvested from
the rarified mountain vineyards rising up, up, and away
from the valley floor.
Venture to the southern terminus of the NapaValley
AVA, and it’s a different story altogether. Here lies the
much cooler Los Carneros district, a sub-appellation shared
with neighboring Sonoma County. Even on the warmest
summer evening, a sweater is a necessity in Carneros
due to bracing winds and fog blowing inland off the San
Pablo Bay. In response to the chilly growing conditions,
this sub-appellation of the Napa Valley is planted almost
exclusively to cool-loving grapes that yield emphatic varietal
expressions of chardonnay and pinot noir.
Napa trailblazers
The NapaValley AmericanViticultural Area (AVA) was
formed in 1981, although historical records reveal winemaking
began in the early 19th century as missionaries and European
settlers established their own roots in this stunningly beautiful
valley. George CalvertYount secured a Spanish land grant back
in 1831, becoming its first white settler.The first commercial
vineyard was planted by John Patchett in 1858. Soon thereafter,
Charles Krug founded the first commercial winery in St.
Helena, followed SchramsbergVineyards, a Calistoga landmark
immortalized in by Robert Louis Stevenson in his lively
travel memoir, Silverado Squatters. H.W. Crabb, the botanist
of the bunch, experimented with 400 varieties in pursuit of
the perfect grapes (1868).There was Jacob and his brother
Frederick Beringer in Spring Mountain (1876), Captain
Gustave Niebaum’s Inglenook (1879), and Georges de Latour’s
BeaulieuVineyard estate near Rutherford (1900).
The NapaValley rose to international acclaim in 1976 as
a result of the “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting which pitted
the best of French wines against California finest vintages. In
both the red and white wine categories, NapaValley bottlings
emerged victorious, leaving the French feeling quite blue, while
affirming what the Golden State vintners already knew in their
hearts. Movie fans may want to revisit this stunning stateside
victory as depicted in the recent indie film “Bottle Shock”
(2008). Decades later, indignant French winemakers demanded
a rematch. At “The Judgment of Paris” 30th Anniversary
tasting, American wines once again took the top spots—five of
them this time —again, all from the NapaValley.
Certainly, Robert Mondavi deserves much of the credit
for advancing the reputation of Napa Valley wines. An early
supporter of technological advances, he created new brands
and provided major philanthropic donations to the region.
In 2007, the Culinary Institute of America inducted him
into the Vintner’s Hall of fame. A year later, the Robert
Mondavi Institute at University of California at Davis
opened, just five months after his death at age 94.Background Photo: Carneros Winescape PHOTO: Tom Moyer
Napa Valley
An enigmatic lifestyle
Small communities like St. Helena and Oakville
dot the NapaValley, where Ford pickups park com-
fortably alongside Ferraris. A pervasive sophistication is
unmistakable, but guardians of the
grape cannot afford to ignore make-or-
break realities.While sleepy tourists are still
counting sheep, local grape growers have already raced to
redeem their future harvests threatened by frost.
Here, one can find multimillion-dollar resorts, a
modern-day castle, decorative storefronts, a vintage wine
train, or a 150-year-old barn under towering redwoods.
There are top-rated restaurants, spas, world-class resorts, hot
springs, and galleries displaying works by talented artists.
When aromas of grilled meats and veggies mingle with
vintage cabernet beckons, a quick stop at a winery suddenly
becomes a day trip.
California’s NapaValley is rife with opportunities to
engage and indulge all the senses. Consider the brief
overview of possibilities before planning your next visit
(on the following page). Enjoy!
Carneros winescape
PHOTO: Tom Moyer
Small but mighty
It may come as a surprise that the NapaValley accounts
for only five percent of the total United States vineyard
acreage. From largest to smallest in volume, its grape varietals
include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, sauvignon
blanc and pinot noir. Relative newcomers—sangiovese, syrah,
petite sirah, cabernet franc, pinot noir, petit verdot and
malbec—now collectively outnumber merlot vines. Most
wines from this prestigious AVA retail between $30 and $50,
but can easily ascend to hundreds of dollars per bottle. Not
unlike framed masterpieces, NapaValley’s “liquid art” is
often collected as such.
According toTerry Hall, spokesperson for the Napa
ValleyVintners Association, “Millennials are driving the
American wine industry.They are the first generation to grow up
with the Internet so they are information-savvy.They also grew up
knowing terms, like ‘organic,’‘sustainable,’ and‘heirloom,’ and are
wildly interested in the source of their products—food and wine.”
WITH SCENIC BEAUTY AND CLIMATE RIVALING THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE,
NAPA VALLEY REMAINS UNSURPASSED AS NORTH AMERICA’S PREMIER
LOCALE FOR THE CULTIVATION OF WINE GRAPES. IT’S ALSO THE MOST
VISITED, AND FOR A VERY GOOD REASON: SUPERLATIVE WINES.
Castello di Amorosa Winery turretin Calistoga, CA
PHOTO: Jim Gateley
CONTINUED ON PAGE 48
www.WineandJazz.com
47
WineRegion:NapaValley
4747
CELEBRATING
WINE AND JAZZ
Brannan’s Grill
Great food, award winning wine list
and live jazz
Calistoga: 707.942.2233
BrannansGrill.com
Downtown Jazz & Blues
Festival/ Blues in the Vineyards
November 1 (1-5 p.m.);
November 2 (12-4 p.m.)
Downtown venues and
participating wineries
Calistoga: 707.942.6333
Miner Family Vineyards
Winery and cave tours by appointment,
Benedetto Guitars concert in August
Oakville: 800.366.WINE, MinerWines.com
Napa River Wine, Crafts
& Jazz Festival
Celebrating handcrafted arts, live jazz
music and wine
Napa: 707.257.0322
NapaWineAndCraftsFair.com
Robert Mondavi Winery
Expansive mission-inspired winery,
art displays, open-air concerts
Oakville: 888.766.6328
RobertMondaviWinery.com
Silo’s Jazz Club
Dinner, wine, and live jazz Wednesday
thru Saturday nights
Napa: 707.251.5833, SilosJazzClub.com
WINERIES
Castello di Amorosa Winery
A modern-day castle and winery
Calistoga: 707.967.6272
CastelloDiAmorosa.com
Hill Family Estate Winery
Heirloom BLT Bar and 2008 Sauvignon
Blanc Release Party in August
Yountville: 707.944.9580
HillFamilyEstate.com
Sterling Vineyards
Tour, art gallery, and aerial tram ride
with admission
Calistoga: 707.942.3345
SterlingVineyards.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
Artisan Wine Tours
Personalized luxury Napa Valley tours
Sonoma: 877.414.2021
ArtisanWineTours.com
Bonaventura Balloon Company
Napa Valley passenger flights
Napa: 800.FLY-NAPA
BonaventuraBalloons.com
Chardonnay Golf Club
Semi-private, 18-hole course meanders
through 150 acres of vineyard
Napa: 800.788.0136
ChardonnayGolfClub.com
Harvest Stomp
Hudson Vineyards in Carneros on
August 28, sponsored by Napa Valley
Grape Growers
Napa: 707.224.8644, NapaGrowers.org
Napa Valley Opera House
Constructed in 1879, 500 seats,
live concerts
Napa: 707.226.7372
NVOH.org
Napa Valley Wine Train
Three-hour, 36-mile trip in a 1915-17
Pullman dining car or 1947 Vista
Dome car
Napa: 800.427.4124
WineTrain.com
Oakville Grocery
Wines, picnic supplies and
specialty foods
Oakville: 707.944-8802
OakvilleGrocery.com
LODGING
Arbor Guest House Bed
& Breakfast
Garden setting, three-course
breakfast, WI-FI, fireplace, Jacuzzi
Napa: 707.252.8144
ArborGuestHouse.com
Best Western Elm House Inn
Well-priced hotel with amazing cookies
and “Napa” ambience
Napa: 707.255.1831
Book.BestWestern.com
Napa River Inn
Historical waterfront landmark with
all the modern amenities
Napa: 877.257.8500
NapaRiverInn.com
The Cottages of Napa Valley
Privacy, well appointed cottages, breakfast
baskets, Bouchon baked goods
Napa: 707.252.7810
NapaCottages.com
The Inn On First
San Francisco-style B&B, Cordon
Bleu-trained chef, dog-friendly
Napa: 866.253.1331
TheInnOnFirst.com
RESTAURANTS
ABC Bakery/Alexis Baking Company
Delicious breakfast and lunch,
decadent desserts
Napa: 707.258.1827
AlexisBakingCompany.com
Bistro Don Giovanni
Fresh pasta, brick oven pizza, terrace, views
Napa: 707.224.3300
BistroDonGiovanni.com
Tra Vigne
Italian-style Sunday brunch
St. Helena: 707.963.4444
TraVigneRestaurant.com
INFORMATION
Napa Valley Vintners Association
Non-profit trade association
St. Helena: 707.963.3388
NapaVintners.com
Our Napa
Valley Picks
Castello di Amorosa Winery art walls
PHOTO: Jim Gateley
3 guitars at
Gargiulo Vineyards
PHOTO: Artisan Wine Tours
The Cottages of Napa Valley
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 47
www.WineandJazz.com
48
WineRegion:NapaValley
ave you ever wondered what the Napa Valley
was like before its current chic and gentrified
incarnation? The answer lies a mere 30-minute
drive west over the mountains. Once you drop down into
Sonoma County’sValley of the Moon, you’ll discover vineyards
unfurling at a more leisurely pace among gently rolling hills
punctuated by mossy ancient oaks that exude the solidity of
the ages. The Sonoma Valley is a quiet, peaceful, and romantic
place. Sound like the wine country of your dreams? In Sonoma
Valley, it’s your dream come true.
There’s a compelling reason why SonomaValley is the real
deal: it’s the birthplace of California winemaking.This is where
it all began, folks, and the imprint of the region’s wine history
is scattered all over the valley.
For starters, head on over to the City of Sonoma’s charming
and historic Sonoma Plaza, a gathering place for the city’s many
festivals andTuesday farmers markets. Begin your tour at the
Mission San Francisco Solano which anchors the northeast
corner of the plaza.The last built and most northern outpost
along California’s mission trail, when this structure was
dedicated in 1824 it was blessed with sacramental wines made
by Franciscan friars who planted their first vineyards here
back in the early 1800s.
Decades later, the Mission’s proliferation of rootstock
throughout Northern California made for another unseen
blessing.The friars’ wine grapes were laying the foundation for
an essential component of California’s agricultural economy.
The importance of SonomaValley’s wine grapes was not lost on
Agoston Haraszthy, a native of Hungary who wisely purchased
a Sonoma parcel in 1856 and named it BuenaVistaWinery the
following year. Armed with 100,000 imported European vine
cuttings, Haraszthy planted and grew both his vineyard and his
legacy, which remain intact in the present-day reincarnation of
the winery. For history buffs, a self-guided tour of the historic
BuenaVistaWinery is a must, second only to a visit to nearby
Bartholomew ParkWinery. Once known as “The Castle,” this
stunning old winery houses the SonomaValley’s History of
Wine in America Museum, a fascinating collection of regional
wine memorabilia.
BACKGROUND PHOTO: Artist in Sonoma Valley by Robert Janover
Sonoma Valley
NATURAL BEAUTY, SMALL-TOWN CHARM, AND HISTORY ARE THE HALLMARKS OF SONOMA VALLEY.
LITTLE WONDER THEN WHY SO MANY POETS, ARTISTS, FARMERS, AND VINTNERS LIVE HERE—AND WHY
WORLD-WEARY SOULS FROM OTHER PLACES SO OFTEN WISH THEY DID, TOO.
H
C
PHOTO: Sonoma Cty Tourism Bureau
Defined by diversity
The simple use of the name “Sonoma” often leads to
confusion in a wine growing region as large and scattered as
Sonoma County. “There are actually three ‘Sonomas,’” explains
Tina Luster of the Sonoma CountyTourism Bureau. “One of
is the City of Sonoma, located on the southwest section of the
county. Another is SonomaValley, referring to the 17-mile sub-
appellation off to the east and, finally, there’s Sonoma County,
which encompasses the town, neighboring towns, and the valley.”
The SonomaValley, encompassing the southeastern section
of Sonoma County, is the largest of the four viticultural areas in
the region. SonomaValley stretches from the populous county
seat of Santa Rosa, southward to San Pablo Bay.The valley
encompasses over 15,000 acres of fertile, loamy soil, but is also
arid, receiving an annual average of only 29 inches of rain.The
Sonoma Mountain and Mayacamas Mountain ranges also
help shelter the valley from westerly fog and precipitation.
In the upper warmer locations, zinfandel and cabernet
sauvignon thrive. Midway below, sauvignon blank and merlot
are grown. In the cooler areas, chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and
gewürztraminer make for excellent still and sparkling wines.
Visiting
SonomaValley offers a colorful patchwork quilt of things to
do and see.Wine lovers, foodies, outdoor enthusiasts, and shoppers
seeking relief from the same-old-same-old franchise scene will
all find plenty to enjoy in this charming and unique part of wine
country. Here, diversity harmonizes into a refreshingly unique
and enjoyable whole
experience.
A regional
highlight for readers
of all stripes is the
Jack London State
Historic State Park,
just minutes away
from the Sonoma
Plaza in the village
of Glen Ellen.
Surrounded by
redwoods, firs, and
oaks, visitors entering London’s well preserved
stone cottage called “The House of Happy
Walls” share an authentic experience while
browsing the museum dedicated to his beloved
“Beauty Ranch” in theValley of the Moon. A
lake, bathhouse, and ruins of the “Wolf House”
nearby also draw many to stroll the trails of this
historic park site dedicated to one of America’s cultural icons.
While in Glen Ellen, stop by the B.R. CohnWinery and Olive
Oil Company to sample fine wines and artisan olive oils pressed
from fruit harvested from ancient picholine olive trees planted back
in the 1870s. Music lovers may want to time their visit to coincide
with the winery’s annual Fall
Music Festival, to be held this
year on October 8-9. Proprietor
Bruce Cohn, manager of the
Doobie Brothers for 36 years, has not
yet announced his upcoming line-up of
artists, but last year’s star-studded event
spotlighted Journey,Taj Mahal and, of
course, his old pals the Doobie Brothers.
Venture further southeast and you’ll
arrive at the sleepy wine town of Kenwood.
Here, the fifth generation of a grape growing
family operates the Kunde Family Estate, begun
after their ancestors imported and planted grape cuttings from
France’s Chateaux Margaux and Lafite Rothschild in 1879. Drive
a few miles further, and watch for the sign to Chateau St. Jean, a
welcoming winery housed in a gracious old landmark mansion.
Foodies could spend days sampling every cuisine to be found
in the region, where fresh produce is showcased in almost every
offering. Or, take a bit of Sonoma home with you. A chunk of
mezzo secco jack from theVella Cheese Company will surely
provide a happy counterpart to that coveted bottle of local
chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon.
There’s something for everyone here—whether book readings,
golf, and jazz festivals, to sculpting, theater, or exploring
newfound trails. SonomaValley’s towns, wineries, and homesteads
seem to provide an artist’s palette for adorning vibrant swaths of
green. Amidst such diversity, everyone can enjoy soaking up the
intrinsic beauty and culture that is Sonoma. And who wouldn’t
want to toast to that?
CONTINUED ON PAGE 52
Count Agoston Haraszthy
Russian River
PHOTO: George Rose
www.WineandJazz.com
51
WineRegion:SonomaValley
Armstrong Woods Guerneville
C
M
Y
CM
MY
CY
CMY
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CELEBRATING
WINE AND JAZZ
Cline Cellars Dixieland
Jazz & Wine Festival
A salute to jazz, wine, and food July 17
Sonoma: 707.940.4025
ClineCellars.com
Petaluma Wine Jazz
& Blues Festival
Great jazz and blues on Sonoma
County’s southside August 7
Petaluma: 707.769.9650
PetalumaWineJazzAndBluesFestival.org
Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival
Amazing jazz weekend, great food, wine
tasting on the river, September 11-12
Russian River: 510.655.9471
OmegaEvents.com
WINERIES
Buena Vista Winery
Historic stone winery, California’s first
Sonoma: 800-926-1266
BuenaVistaCarneros.com
Bartholomew Park Winery
Stunning setting, wine history museum,
and exclusive winery-only wines
Sonoma: 707.935-9511
BartholomewParkWinery.com
B.R. Cohn Winery &
Olive Oil Company
Plenty of history, including rock
& roll greats
Glen Ellen: 800-330-4064
BRCohn.com
Kunde Family Estate
Sustainable winegrowing, eco-tours,
guided wine cave tours
Kenwood: 707.833.5501
Kunde.com
Chateau St. Jean
Gracious 1920s manse surrounded by
beautiful gardens
Kenwood: 707.833.4134
ChateauStJean.com
Tin Barn Vineyards
No-fuss tasting room and warehouse
winery, where the wine is the star
Sonoma: 707.938.5430
TinBarnVineyards.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
‘Bubbles & Brunch’ at
Estate Restaurant
Weekly Sunday brunch from 10-3 pm with
a $3 Prosecco Bar
Sonoma: 707.933.3663
Estate-Sonoma.com
Sonoma Wine Country Weekend
Throughout Sonoma Wine Country
September 3-5
800.939.7666
SonomaWineCountryWeekend.com
Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival
Patron’s Night Gala, festival with wine
tasting, food, art, Grape Stomp, local
bands, September 24-26
Sonoma: 707.996.2109
SonomaVintageFestival.org
LODGING
Beltane Ranch
Gorgeous two-story ranch farmhouse
inn. Farm-fresh produce, gardens, views,
chickens
Sonoma: 707.966.6501
BeltaneRanch.com
Inn at Sonoma
Close to Sonoma Plaza, breakfast, wine,
hors d’oeuvres, cookies
Sonoma: 888.568.9818
InnAtSonoma.com
MacArthur Place
Former 1850s Burris-Good estate with
64 rooms, gardens and pool
Sonoma: 707.938.2929
MacarthurPlace.com
Sonoma Chalet
Eclectic, unpretentious wine country
cottages with light breakfasts
Sonoma: 707.938.3129
SonomaChalet.com
The Hidden Oak Inn
Restored 1914 Craftsman-style bungalow
with nightly wine tasting
Sonoma: 707.996.9863
HiddenOakInn.com
RESTAURANTS
Harvest Moon Café
Seasonal food based on availability of fresh
produce, al fresco dining on large patio
Sonoma: 707.933.8160
HarvestMoonCafeSonoma.com
LaSalette Restaurant
Contemporary Portuguese cuisine
Sonoma: 707.938.1927
Lasalette-Restaurant.com
Santé
Michelin-rated restaurant at
Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa
Sonoma: 707.938.9000
Fairmont.com/Sonoma
Taste of the Himalayas
A refreshingly flavorful dinner
option in wine country
Sonoma: 707.996.1161
HimalayaNext.com
The Girl and the Fig
Brunch, cheese cart, and a
‘Rhone-Alone’ wine list
Sonoma: 707.938.3634
TheGirlAndTheFig.com
INFORMATION
Sonoma County Tourism Bureau
‘America’s premier wine, spa and coastal
destination’
Santa Rosa: 800.576.6662
SonomaCounty.com
Sonoma Valley Vintners &
Growers Alliance
Sonoma: 707.935.0803
SonomaValleyWine.com
Our Sonoma
Valley Picks
Beltane Ranch
Buena VistaWinery
Cline Cellars Dixieland
Jazz & Wine Festival
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 51
www.WineandJazz.com
52
WineRegion:SonomaValley
BACKGROUND PHOTO: Paso Robles vineyards by Paso Robles Vintners’ and Growers’ Association
“AN ESTIMATED 58 PERCENT OF PASO ROBLES WINE GRAPES ARE SOLD TO WINERIES OUTSIDE THE AREA,
MAKING THEM THE ‘SECRET INGREDIENT’ IN OTHER CALIFORNIA WINES.”
– PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY ALLIANCE
he pioneer spirit is very much alive and well in
Paso Robles. Although cattle ranchers, almond
growers and grain farmers were more prevalent
here only a decade ago, their influence lingers
on in this colorful, up-and-coming wine appellation. But
don’t let the rustic and unpretentious feel of this oak-studded
region fool you. According to wine insiders, the Paso Robles
AVA, one of California’s fastest growing wine regions, has
“the right stuff” to one day challenge the NapaValley as our
nation’s premier red wine producing region.
Established in 1983, the Paso Robles AVA—located
equidistant from San Francisco and Los Angeles—is the true
center of California’s Central Coast. Bounded to the north
by the Monterey County line, sheltered by the Santa Lucia
Mountains to the west, the boundary of this sprawling new
wine region stretches past the remote outpost of Cholame—
where a James Dean roadside memorial marks this notorious
east-west highway intersection—before narrowing southward
toward Santa Margarita.Today, the fact that just 26,000
acres of the 614,000 acre region have already been planted
to wine grapes reveals the sleeping production potential of
this gangly young wine region, blessed by nature with equally
large reserves of quality.
Today, cabernet sauvignon is king among the 40 different
grape varietals grown in Paso Robles and vinified by its
approximately 200 wineries. Other leading varieties are merlot,
syrah, and zinfandel. In addition, the amount of acreage
dedicated to Rhone varietals is on the rise, drawing fervent fans
among self-proclaimed “Rhone Rangers.”According to Gary
Eberle, Paso Robles AVA co-founder, “As Americans become
more sophisticated, they’re branching out into Rhônes,
Cal-Italian, and Spanish varieties. People are looking for new
and interesting things, but cabernet, chardonnay, and pinot noir
won’t be replaced.With the proliferation of new labels and
marketing, it’s hard.You have to make good wine.”
Modern wine pioneers
Beginning in the 1960s, a new wave of pioneers
sparked the wine industry. Leading the charge in Paso
Robles was Dr. André Tchelistcheff, who planted the
first chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir
vines. Following his lead were more grape growers and
winemakers: Bob Young, Herman Schwartz and Gary
Eberle, Dave Caparone, Treana Winery and Chateau
Margene among them.
T
Paso Robles
Eberle Winery
Castoro Cellars gardens
It is Gary Eberle who is credited with planting the
region’s first syrah wines. In 1984, this producer’s leadership
was obvious when his winery’s cabernet sauvignon
accompanied President Ronald Reagan’s historic six-day visit
to President Li Xiannian in China. Arnold Schwarzenegger
followed suit by serving Eberle wine when President George
W. Bush visited Southern California. For all the fanfare,
Gary Eberle readily lauds both youthful and seasoned
vintners in his own “who’s who” of Paso Robles. A genuine
world apart from executive winemaker rock stars, these Paso
neighbors are quick to share a glass, viticultural know-how,
or even a tractor, long after the day is done.
“Tom Meyers at Castoro Cellars is truly outstanding.
Bill Sheffer (Halter Ranch) is another,” Eberle insists.
“Jason Haas (Tablas Creek) and Austin Hope (Hope
FamilyWines) are two guys I’m really impressed with.
Jason’s dad, Robert, was an icon when I was just starting.
He’s turning out some really nifty wines. KenVolk, L’Aventure,
Villicana, and Opolo make spectacular wines. So do Paul Hoover
(StillWatersVineyards), Calcareous, Saxum, andVic Roberts
(Victor Hugo).Vic’s the most underrated. He’s always been a good
winemaker, and he has no ego. Robert Nadeau turned out to be a
super talent, and CassWinery … wow!They all make really great
wine. Paso Robles doesn’t have to play second fiddle to anyone,”
Eberle says with a smile. “We can be really proud of what we make.”
CONTINUED ON PAGE 56
True terroir and diversity
One defining feature of the Paso Robles AVA is theTempleton
Gap, a series of seven passes on Paso’sWestside. Fog and afternoon
breezes wind through these corridors, funneling relief where
50-degree spikes can swell thermometers by mid-afternoon.
“There’s a misconception that the hottest vineyards are on the
Eastside and the coldest are on theWestside.That’s not true,”
explains Gary Eberle, who says plenty of cooling breezes flow in
fromTempleton Gap, as “it comes whistling through” his Paso
Robles vineyards off Highway 46 East. “The coldest climate, in
fact, is in Santa Margarita. No one district is especially unique. It’s
all unique!”Vintner Steve Cass couldn’t agree more. “There’s no
stop sign for those breezes at Highway 101 (which divide west
and east).Westside properties significantly north or south of
the Gap receive even less of its benefit. Since it’s primarily west-
to-east breezes that fan out, the further inland it comes.”
“The best word to describe Paso Robles is diversity,” says
Joel Peterson of Hope FamilyWines. “We can grow a vast array
of grapes and make really exceptional wines. Many different
varieties grow well here.That diversity is our biggest strength.”
“With eleven defined microclimates that transcend our
region, it’s less of a story of east and west and more a story of
true terroir and diversity,” observes ChristopherTaranto of the
Paso RoblesWine Country Alliance. “There are 30 different
soil series across the Paso Robles AVA.That quality—combined
with the long growing season, large diurnal temperature swing,
and different microclimates—affords us the ability to create a
multitude of different wines that cannot be pigeon-holed into
one definable category. In Paso Robles, there’s so much for the
wine lover to discover while visiting.”
Why not pull out your travel planner and discover Paso Robles
for yourself … before the crowds arrive.To get you started, on the
following page are a few suggestions for things to do and see in
this wonderfully laid-back corner of California wine country.
www.WineandJazz.com
55
WineRegion:PasoRobles
CELEBRATING
WINE AND JAZZ
Castoro Cellars
Award-winning wines. Intimate, starlit
concerts among the vines; Concerts
this season: Café Musique, Peppino
D’Agostino, Karla Bonoff, Kenny Edwards
Templeton: 805.467.2002
CastoroCellars.com
D’Anbino Vineyards & Cellars
Winemaking musicians with live music
year-round
Paso Robles: 805.227.6800, DAnbino.com
WINERIES
Caparone Winery
Italian varietal specialists. Father and
son are winemakers by day, Usonia Jazz
Band musicians by night
Paso Robles: 805.467.3827, Caparone.com
Eberle Winery
Among Top 10 medal award-winning
U.S. wineries. Winemaker Dinner in
the Caves, October 15
Paso Robles: 805.238.9607
Eberlewinery.com
Hunt Cellars
Colonial-style wine tasting room
Paso Robles: 805.237.1600
HuntWineCellars.com
Sculpterra Winery &
Sculpture Garden
Family estate winery. Giant granite
sculptures, picturesque landscape
Paso Robles: 888.302.8881
Sculpterra.com
Tobin James Cellars
Award-winning wines, restored
stage coach stop
Paso Robles: 805.239.2204, TobinJames.com
Victor Hugo Winery
Templeton area winemaker with
a reputation for excellence
Templeton: 805.434.1128
VictorHugoWinery.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
80th Annual Pioneer Day Parade
and Celebration
Saturday, October 9; Free activities:
old-fashioned parade, bean feed in
City Park, antique/classic cars, gazebo
concert, kid’s pet show, more
Paso Robles: 805.238.2038
PasoRoblesPioneerDay.org
California Mid-State Fair
July 21 - August 1; Top-notch live concerts
and county fair, Jazz Night, Wine Plaza
805.239-0655 or 800.909.3247
MidStateFair.com
Harvest Wine Weekend
October 15-17; Winery-hosted activities;
130 wineries, 150 events
Paso Robles: 800.549.9463
PasoWine.com
Jack Creek Farms
Fifth-generation Barlogio family-run
farm, country store, bakery
West Templeton: 805.238.3799
JackCreekFarms.com
The Wine Line
Flexible ‘hop on, hop off’ tour to 60 wineries
Paso Robles: 805.610.8267
HopOnTheWineLine.com
The Wine Wrangler
Wine tour packages with knowledgeable
guides
Paso Robles: 805.238.5700
TheWineWrangler.com
LODGING
Adelaide Inn
Value meets quality
Paso Robles: 805.238.2770
AdelaideInn.com
Best Western
Black Oak Motor Lodge
Near Margie’s Diner and fairgrounds
Paso Robles: 805.238.4740
BestWesternBlackOak.com
Hotel Cheval
Equestrian-inspired luxury downtown
Paso Robles: 886.522.6999
HotelCheval.com
JUST Inn Bed & Breakfast at
Justin Vineyards & Winery
Exquisite wine country suites, fine dining
Paso Robles: 805.238.6932
JustinWine.com
La Bellasera Hotel & Suites
Luxury boutique hotel, Enoteca
Restaurant & Bar; Monthly concerts
in an intimate setting
Paso Robles: 805.238.2834
LaBellasera.com
RESTAURANTS
Artisan
Unique approach to the American Bistro
Paso Robles: 805.237.8084
ArtisanPasoRobles.com
Bistro Laurent
Casual elegance, Country French cuisine
Paso Robles: 805.226.8191
BistroLaurent.com
Hoover’s Beef Palace
Ranch-style breakfasts and décor to match
Templeton: 805.434.2114
Il Cortile Ristorante
Rustic Italian with quality ingredients
Paso Robles; 805.226.0300
IlCortileRistorante.com
Villa Creek Restaurant
Rancho Mission Cuisine, Villa Creek
Cellars wines
Paso Robles: 805.238.3000
VillaCreek.com
INFORMATION
Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance
Appellation, winery and events information
Paso Robles: 800.549.9463
Experience Paso Robles
Directory of things to see and do
Paso Robles: 888.988.7276
TravelPaso.com
Our Paso
Robles Picks
Hotel Cheval
Downtown
Paso Robles
PHOTO: PRVGA
Castoro Cellars’
John Jorgenson Quintet
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 55
www.WineandJazz.com
56
WineRegion:PasoRobles
BACKGROUND PHOTO: Temecula Valley Vineyards at Sunset
f you aren’t already familiar with this rising
star—located in the southwest corner of
California’s Riverside County, an hour from
San Diego and a mere half-hour east of the Pacific
Ocean—that’s probably because Temecula is among the
newest on California’s growing list of wine appellations.
Because of theTemeculaValley’s proximity to the sea,
its vineyards benefit from warm, dry days cooled at night
by brisk sea breezes flowing through the Rainbow Gap and
other points of entry carved out of the coastal mountain
range. In fact,Temecula’s dramatic diurnal temperature
swings closely mimic the grape-growing conditions in Napa
Valley. Little wonder then there are approximately 3,000
acres already planted, with plans for more in the future.
Similarities in climate aside, it is the unique soils that
anchor and nourish the vines that make wines fromTemecula
so unique. Here, decomposed granite provides distinction for
fruit grown in naturally well drained soils. Local winemakers
believe that the presence of red clay, dark loam, and sandy
components lend further complexity to the grape. Situated at
an average elevation of 1,500 feet,Temecula grapes flourish,
happily free of the threat of mold until harvest.
A rich history, steeped in sun and granite
Although literal translations vary, Temecula is derived
from the Indian word, “Temecunga,” meaning “place of
the sun” or “where the sun breaks through the mist.”The
surrounding hillsides were once home to the Temecula
tribe as early as 900 A.D. The various cultural settlements
that stretched clear to the coast were all known as
“Luisenos,” as many had become subject to influence by
nearby Mission San Luis Rey.
Trappers, hunters and explorers accessed several area
trails between 1820 and 1846, which later became the
root source of the Southern Emigrant Trail. Historical
records, such as field surveyor’s notes, newspapers, travelers’
journals, diaries, legal records, maps, and photographs help
corroborate their locations.
If those ancient trails could talk, one may imagine
the stories they could reveal from society’s growing pains:
California Gold Rush discoveries in 1848, the Butterfield
Overland Mail route between San Francisco and St. Louis,
CivilWar soldiers assigned to their posts, the influx of
railroad transportation before the turn of the century, and
thriving growth as a working ranch town.Today, modern-day
counterparts soldier through one of these trails on a less
treacherous commute: Highway 79 South.
An appellation is born
In 1968,Vincenzo and Audrey Cilurzo established the
first commercial scale vineyard (now BellaVistaWinery),
while BrooksideWinery began its own vineyard plantings.
A year later, CallawayVineyard andWinery was established,
followed by Mount Palomar in 1975. Nearly two-dozen
wineries followed. By 1984, theTemecula AVA was official;
a decade later, the appellation was renamed theTemecula
Valley AVA, which now encompasses 33,000 acres.
Planted acreage includes chardonnay, merlot, sauvignon
blanc, viognier, syrah, and pinot gris grapes. Cabernet
sauvignon, zinfandel, and pinot noir also thrive along with
smaller percentages of other varietals. The wineries, about
three-dozen and growing, are an easy drive from the center
of town. From large-scale operations to smaller, privately
owned boutique wineries, the open spaces around the area
enable many of the vineyards to be close by and accessible.
One of the smaller, well-established wineries is
Palumbo Family Vineyards & Winery, run by Nicholas and
his wife, Cindy. Their 13-acre estate produces 2,500 cases
per year of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and
NORTHERN CALIFORNIA HAS LONG BEEN THE MAINSTAY OF AMERICAN WINEMAKING FOR MANY AN AFICIONADO.
AMONG THE NEWEST OF WINE APPELLATIONS IS TEMECULA VALLEY, TUCKED IN THE CORNER OF RIVERSIDE COUNTY,
AN HOUR FROM SAN DIEGO AND JUST THIRTY MINUTES FROM THE PACIFIC OCEAN. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT
THIS NOSTALGIC LITTLE COUNTRY TOWN WOULD EMERGE TO GIVE THE SUPERSTARS A SERIOUS RUN FOR THE GOLD?
Temecula Valley
I
sangiovese, plus a new block of viognier and syrah. Nicholas is a
big believer in what he finds are “two basic ingredients in
making fine wines—the fruit itself and the barrels they age in.”
Phil and Carol Baily are the owners of BailyVineyard &Winery.
These modern-dayTemecula winery pioneers have crafted estate
wines from vineyards planted in 1982 and currently produce
5,000 cases annually. Specializing in red Bordeaux varieties, their
efforts have yielded an impressive array of gold medals from State
Fair competitions that include California, San Francisco, Los
Angeles and Orange County, as well as the San FranciscoWine
Competition. Regardless of the accolades, Phil doesn’t take himself
too seriously. He attests, “So what makes a good wine and what
makes a bad wine? Basically, it’s simple.There are really only two
things to consider,” he says. “A good wine is a wine that smells
good with no disagreeable odors, a wine that is smooth in the
mouth, and a wine that leaves a pleasing and lingering aftertaste.”
Want to pull out all the stops in wine country? No problem.
Temecula knows how to do fancy without the pretense at South
CoastWinery Resort and Spa.The Grapeseed Spa andVilla
accommodations are first-rate. But beyond the grand fountain
entrance and rustic-beamed ceilings, a statuesque bobcat also
provides a memorable tasting room welcome. Beyond pleasant
décor, South Coast possesses a dizzying array of nearly 1,000
regional and international awards for their wines in only six year’s
worth of production, with two dozen awards in 2008, alone.To top
it off, South Coast was awarded the distinction of “BestWinery in
California” in 2009, its second consecutive year to win this honor.
Owned by Jim Carter, wines from South CoastWinery’sWild
Horse Peak vineyard speak volumes. Here, afternoon breezes
wield their way through vineyards of largely syrah and sangiovese
grapes, which helps to produce healthy berries for irresistible
wines for 50,000 cases. Not jaded by success, Jim still takes a
simple, but refreshingly enthusiastic approach to wine grape
cultivation: “All we do as a farmer is we work with what we know
the grape is trying to do, and then we guide it to get the very
best fruit that we can get to make our wine.” Master winemaker
Jon McPherson and winemaker Javier Flores share a similar
philosophy. Jon says, “It’s about letting the grapes speak. Javier
and I simply listen and then carefully nurture the process.”
Preserving Old Town Temecula
“OldTown”Temecula originally served as a supportive hub for
Vail Ranch, an 87,000-acre cattle and agricultural operation from
1904 to 1964. Later, the community experienced a revitalization
that initially began in the 1960s, but proceeded in earnest in the
1980s. A sense of history has been integral to what has become a
rapidly growing and thriving community of more than 100,000
residents. Careful planning has prioritized centrally located access
to performing arts, historical and children’s museums, downtown
small businesses, and neighborhood restaurants. A large-scale civic
center construction project is in the works, geared to meet the
needs of a population that has doubled over the last decade.
A walk through town is pleasant, and one is challenged to tell
new construction from old.The City Council offered incentives for
business owners to create storefronts that look a century or two
old, even up close.When hunger strikes, locals and visitors enjoy
old-fashioned juicy burgers, real-deal milkshakes, root beer floats,
and house wine by the glass at Mad Madeline’s Grill on Front
Street, where 18 hamburger choices and indecision collide.Water
misters also provide welcome summertime comfort during the wait
for half-pound Blue Cheese Burgers with bacon,Texas Burgers
with grilled pastrami, and Buffalo Burgers.There’s even a dog-
friendly patio, ideal for travelers with man’s best friend. At Public
House, generous eight-ounce pours of red, white, or sparkling
wines accompany buttermilk-soaked calamari steak strips and Pile
O’ Pork Shanks. If there’s room for dessert, a decadent S’More
Brownie or farm-fresh Berries, Cake ’N’ Cream might do the trick.
Add live music, a flickering fire on the patio, a harvest moon, and
you have one pleasant sensory overload.
There’s much to do in theTemecula wine region in summer,
fall, and year-round. Music lovers can groove to eight bands in
three locations at theTemecula International Jazz Festival, go hot
air ballooning or golfing, visit antique shops and malls, or simply
enjoy the clippety-clop of horse-drawn carriage rides through the
vineyards.The variety only adds to all the fun.
Meanwhile, vintners at wineries large and small seem to
share a collective approach to keeping winemaking enjoy-
able and uncomplicated. If this translates to great
wine,Temecula is a region that’s sure to become
more avidly pursued in the years to come.
Temecula Valley Balloon
& Wine Festival
conTinued on page 60
www.WineandJazz.com
59
WineRegion:Temecula
Celebrating
Wine and Jazz
baily’s Fine dining
California cuisine in the heart of Old
Town. Live music on weekends
Temecula: 951.676.9567
OldTownDining.com
Falkner Winery
Winery, restaurant, weekend jazz concerts
Temecula: 951.676.8231
FalknerWinery.com
Keyways Vineyard & Winery
“Wine Down Fridays” - mellow music,
wine and dinner
Temecula: 877.539.5297
KeywaysWine.com
thornton Winery
“Champagne Jazz” concert series
Temecula: 951.699.0099
ThorntonWine.com
Wineries
longshadow ranch
Horse-drawn carriage wine tasting trips
951.587.6221
LongshadowRanchWinery.com
Miramonte Winery
Hip vibe with live music on Fri/Sat,
from 7-10 p.m.
Temecula: 951.506.5500
MiramonteWinery.com
Palumbo Family Vineyard
& Winery
Intimate, family-run vineyard & winery
Temecula: 951.676.7900
PalumboFamilyVineyards.com
robert renzoni Vineyards
Tasting room featuring Italian style
wine portfolio; Picnic grounds
Temecula: 951.302.8466
RobertRenzoniVineyards.com
stuart Cellars
Family 40-acre estate vineyard with
360-degree views
Temecula: 888.260.0870, StuartCellars.com
Wilson Creek Winery
Home of the award-winning Almond
Champagne
Temecula: 951.699.9463
WilsonCreekWinery.com
aCtiVities and eVents
temecula Valley international
Jazz Festival
Honoring Ella Fitzgerald on July 9-11, 2010
951.678.2517
TemeculaJazzFest.com
‘taste of Winemaking’
seasonal seminars
July 24, 2010 and October 23, 2010
Callaway Vineyard and Winery
951.676.4001, CallawayWinery.com
Peltzer Pumpkin Farms
Open daily: September 18 to October
31, 2010; Mini-railroad tides, pony rides,
petting farm, tractor collection, pig
races, and pumpkins!
951.695.1115, PeltzerFarms.com
temecula Outdoor Quilt show
October 2, 2010; Hundreds of quilts
displayed in Old Town
PMB 435, 27475 Ynez Road, Temecula,
CA 92591
ValleyOfTheMistQuilters.com
a grape escape balloon adventure
Year-round excursions, weather
permitting; Sip Wilson Creek Winery
Almond Champagne from mid-air!
800.965.2122, HotAirTours.com
the grapeline
Wine Country shuttle
888.894.6379, GoGrape.com
lOdging
south Coast Winery resort & spa
Luxurious villas, full-service spa,
restaurant, winery
866.994.6379, WineResort.com
temecula Creek inn
Relaxed and spacious, with sweeping
golf greens
877.517.1823, TemeculaCreekInn.com
inn at Churon Winery
Elegant French Country chateau and winery
951.694.9070, InnAtChuronWinery.com
Pechanga resort &
entertainment Center
Largest casino resort in California/
concert venue
888.732.4264, Pechanga.com
restaurants
Meritage at Callaway
Al fresco, vineyard view dining featuring
Tapas menu
Temecula: 951.587.8889
CallawayWinery.com
smokehouse restaurant at Ponte
estate Winery
Grape wood-fired food, small-batch
wines, vineyard views
951.252.1770, PonteWinery.com
Mad Madeline’s grill
Burgers, buffalo, and pork ribs
877.805.6653, MadMadelinesGrill.com
the great Oak steakhouse
Angus beef and more than 900
wine selections
951.770.8507, Pechanga.com
temecula Pizza Company
Inventive, fresh-crust pizzas, hot
sandwiches, wines
951.694.9463
TemeculaPizzaCompany.com
inFOrMatiOn
temecula Valley Convention
and Visitor’s bureau
951.491.6085, TemeculaCVB.com
temecula Valley Winegrower’s
association
800.801.9463, TemeculaWines.org
Our Temecula
Valley Picks
Stuart Cellars vista
Old Town Temecula
Gateway
Live music every
Friday & Saturday night
at Miramonte Winery
COnTinued FrOM paGe 59
www.WineandJazz.com
60
WineRegion:Temecula
Santa Maria Valley
& Sta. Rita Hills
f you’re looking for a truly “no-frills” wine getaway,
one that’s the real deal—no pinky fingers posing
in mid-air, no scents of framboises lurking in your
wineglass, no menus with ingredients you’ve never heard of, no
limos or Ferraris, and not a franchise in sight—then get thee to
the “far side” of Santa Barbara County.
Instead of taking the turn-off for Santa Ynez, keep heading
north to visit the sub-appellations of Santa Maria Valley and
Sta. Rita Hills, where you’ll discover a refreshingly unpretentious
slice of California wine country, along with chardonnays and
pinot noirs that are, hands-down, as good or better than many
French Burgundies selling at twice the price.
Continue north to Santa Maria Valley
It’s the lay of the land that makes this region so unique. Unlike
all other coastal valleys in California, instead of running north-
south, the Santa MariaValley runs directly west-east. Fog and wind
pour in freely from the sea across this broad and open inland plain,
sweeping across the City of Santa Maria and beyond, blanketing this
AVA which encompasses 80,000 acres of vineyard potential.
Established in the early 1980s, this AVA rises from elevations
barely above sea level near the Santa Maria River to as high as
3,000 feet atTepusquet Peak.Toward the west, the valley receives
copious morning fog and predictable afternoon winds, which blow
well into the eastern part of the region to cool hotter terrain
during occasional summer temperature spikes. Modest rainfall
provides for more hang-time on the vine, allowing concentrated
flavors to develop, a real qualitative advantage for the rows of
mostly chardonnay and pinot noir planted in this region. Although
the area is classified as Climate Region I, rivaling Champagne in
France and Rhine in Germany, a few Climate Region II conditions
may be found further inland.
The oldest, largest, and most widely respected vineyard in
the Santa Maria Valley is Bien Nacido Vineyards which grows
chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc syrah, and merlot. This vast
I
BACKGROUND PHOTO: Sta. Rita Hills
IT MAY COME AS A SURPRISE TO FANS OF THE
HIT FILM “SIDEWAYS” THAT ALL WINES FROM
SANTA BARBARA DO NOT HAIL FROM SANTA
YNEZ. UP THE ROAD APIECE, GREEN CARPETS
OF GRAPE VINES QUIETLY COEXIST WITH
SLOPING RANCHLANDS, ANCIENT RED OAKS,
AND MILES OF UNSPOILED EARLY CALIFORNIA
BEAUTY. IN PLACES SO REMOTE THAT CITY
SLICKERS CALL THEM “THE BACK OF BEYOND,”
WINE GRAPES HAVE BEEN GROWING WITHOUT
RED CARPET FANFARE FOR DECADES.
Santa Barbara Mission hallway
PHOTO: Anders Illum
operation sets a high standard for local wine grapes, and
numerous wineries scattered throughout the region—from
the San Rafael Mountains to the Santa Maria Mesa—line
up to buy its ultra-premium fruit.The vineyard’s first
plantings hailed from the early rancheros established in
1857. A century later, the fifth-generation Miller Family
bought this acreage and neighboring property to restore
the original RanchoTepusquet. It was the Millers who
named the property “Bien Nacido,” a Mexican expression
akin to “born with a silver spoon.”
One of the oldest wine producers is FoxenWinery &
Vineyard, established in 1985 by BillWathen and Dick
Doré on the historic 2000-acre RanchoTinaquaic.
Among the first to plant vines in the 1970s, they
continue growing chardonnay, syrah, and cabernet franc
on their small, hillside vineyard.Their newest offerings
include Bordeaux and Cal-Italian style wines which augment
their traditional pinots, chardonnays, and Rhone-style blends.
Certainly no expense is spared in the vineyard or cellar at
Cambria under the direction of proprietress Barbara Banke.
Cambria specializes in wines made from 100% estate-grown
grapes harvested from vines anchored in the unique soils of the
Santa Maria Bench. Cambria’s handsome and comfortable tasting
room is open daily. Be sure to sample Cambria’s Julia’sVineyard
Pinot Noir, which offers an exceptional quality-price ratio, along
with many limited edition wines sold only at the winery.
Before leaving this area, once ruggedly picturesque cowboy
country populated by Basque and Portuguese ranchers (many of
those who remain are steadfast in their preference for speaking
their own local idiom), do yourself a favor and watch for a
roadside stand selling local strawberries —the most tender and
aromatic, same-day picked strawberries imaginable.
Head for the Sta. Rita Hills
Established in 2001, this sub-appellation was previously
known as the Santa Rita Hills AVA until 2006, when the slight
name change came at the behest of Vina Santa Rita, a major wine
producer in Chile concerned about losing its thunder as a brand.
Sandwiched between Buellton, a pit-stop along Highway 101, and
blue collar Lompoc along the coast road, this region offers few
amenities to the visitor. But, it does offer rapturously fine wines
worthy of even the most demanding Burgundy connoisseurs.
Weather here is the coldest of the cold, and many growers shy
away from such marginal climatic conditions. Maritime fog and
breezes blow in from the sea through an expansive corridor that
tunnels between the northern La Purisima and Santa Rosa Hills.
Both the SantaYnez River and Santa Rosa Road run parallel across
the southern portion, where vineyards cluster in the lower elevations.
These coveted microclimates make ideal conditions for growing
ultra-premium chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah, along with smaller
amounts of pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, grenache, and viognier.
Be sure to check
out the wines by
Fiddlehead, Sea
Smoke, and numerous
other small producers
in this region of
artisan-crafted wines.
Not all wineries offer
daily tasting, so you may
want to call ahead. But in the Sta.
Rita Hills AVA, odds are good that you’ll actually
get to meet the winemaker and even share a glass with him or her in
an unhurried pace with zero pretension. Here, vintners tend to let the
wine and the area’s natural beauty do the talking. Small wonder why
almost everyone who visits comes back for more.
Here, it is alma, explains Jim Fiolek, director of the Santa
Barbara CountyVintner’s Association. “It’s a Latin word,
meaning to ‘nourish or incite the spirit.’ I like that.When you
look up the hills, there’s nothing grand, yet there’s something
great. It’s this overwhelming force you’re drawn into. One can see
why the Chumash Indians held this land in such reverence.”
Speaking of reverence, nothing in this region, not even its
stellar wines, are held in higher esteem than Santa Maria-style
BBQ, perfectly seasoned slabs of melt-in-your-mouth tri-tip
served with another regional specialty, silky smooth pinquinto
beans—ahhh! It’s all served at its peak of perfection at the
Hitching Post—with two locations to choose from, in Buellton
or coastal Casmalia.
Where to stay during your visit? A posh sanctuary awaits
you at the Fess Parker Inn and Spa in nearby Los Olivos. But if
you’re feeling wacky enough for a fantasy retreat, check out one
of the kitschy theme rooms—your choice of Gypsy, Pirate, King
Tut, Roman, or French—atTheVictorian Mansion in the old
stagecoach stop town of Los Alamos, a charming rural village
that hearkens back to another era.
cOnTInued On PAge 64
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WineRegion:SantaMariaValley&Sta.RitaHills
CELEBRATING
WINE AND JAZZ
Rideau Vineyard
Iris Rideau’s New Orleans jazz roots
define this historical landmark tasting
room, with live jazz or blues on
weekends.
Solvang: 805.688.0717
RideauVineyard.com
WINERIES
Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards
Founded by veteran vintner
Richard Sanford; sustainable
practices in organic vineyard
Buellton: 805.688.9090
AlmaRosaWinery.com
Foxen Winery & Vineyard
One of the oldest Santa Maria Valley
vineyards; solar-powered operation
Santa Maria: 805.937.4251
FoxenVineyard.com
Cambria Winery & Vineyards
Estate-grown pinot noir,
chardonnay, syrah
Santa Maria: 888.339-9463
CambriaWines.com
Richard Longoria Wines
Wine tasting in the garden in
downtown Los Olivos
Los Olivos: 805.688.0305
LongoriaWine.com
Fiddlehead Cellars
Pinot noir specialists, plus
sauvignon blanc
Lompoc: 805.742.0204
FiddleheadCellars.com
ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS
California Wine Festival
Old Spanish Nights, Sunset Rare and
Reserve Wine Tasting, Beachside
Wine Festival
July 15-17
Santa Barbara: 866.273.4148
CaliforniaWineFestival.com
Chumash Casino Resort
Casino and Four Diamond resort, live
concert entertainment
Santa Ynez: 800.CHUMASH
ChumashCasino.com
Lotusland
Truly inspirational botanic garden of
exotic and native plants on 37 acres,
garden shop, informative docents
provide two-hour walking tours
Santa Barbara: 805.969.9990
Lotusland.org
Old Spanish Days Fiesta
August 4-8
Celebrates the history and culture
of the American Indian, Spanish,
Mexicans and early settlers.
Free and paid events: arts, crafts,
fiesta foods, music, dancing, horse
shows, rodeos, carnivals
Santa Barbara: 805.962.8101
OldSpanishDays-Fiesta.org
Old Mission Santa Barbara
‘Queen of the Missions’ was built in 1786
Santa Barbara: 805.682.4713
SantaBarbaraMission.org
Sustainable Wine Tours
Extensive tour services of Santa
Barbara appellation area wineries
Santa Barbara: 805.698.3911
SustainableVine.com
LODGING
Fess Parker Inn & Spa
Country elegance. Each room
decorated by Mrs. Parker.
Los Olivos: 800.446.2455
FessParker.com
The Victorian Mansion
Fantasy-themed rooms in an
old-fashioned village
Los Alamos: 808.344-1300
TheVick.com
The Ballard Inn
Charming country bread and breakfast
in wine country near Santa Ynez
Ballard: 805.688.7770
BallardInn.com
RESTAURANTS
Hitching Post Restaurants, I & II
Real-deal Santa Maria-style BBQ and
worth the drive
Casmalia (the original!) 866.879.4088
HitchingPost1.com
Buellton: 805.688.0676
HitchingPost2.com
Ellen’s Danish Pancake House
Where the locals go to enjoy breakfast
anytime. Huge crepe-like pancakes to
twelve-egg omelets.
Buellton: 805.688.5312
272 Avenue of the Flags, Buellton
Far Western Tavern
‘Home of the Famous Bull’s Eye Steak;’
authentic Santa Maria Valley red oak BBQ
Guadalupe: 805.343.2211
FarWesternTavern.com
Trattoria Grappolo
Country regional cuisine by Italian chefs:
Leonardo, Alfonso, and Giorgio Curti
Santa Ynez: 805.688.6899
TrattoriaGrappolo.com
INFORMATION
Santa Barbara County
Vintners’ Association
Santa Ynez: 805.688.0881
SBCountyWines.com
Our Santa Maria Valley
& Sta. Rita Hills Picks
The Pavilion at Lotusland
PHOTO: J. Brew
‘Billy Goat’ Merlot grows in Solvang
PHOTO: Travis S.PHOTO:RebeccaStanek
CONTINUED FROM PAGE 63
www.WineandJazz.com
64
WineRegion:SantaMariaValley&Sta.RitaHills

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Wine Regions multi, Wine & Jazz, Vint. 2 Trk 3, Melissa Chavez

  • 1.
  • 2. MMy original vision for Wine and Jazz magazine was to produce a publication that equaled and eventually surpassed the quality of my family’s multi-award winning Powerboat Magazine, which we published from 1968 through 2005. Although WAJ has yet to receive official accolades from our publishing peers in the form of industry awards (we are relatively new on the scene after all!), the changes you see withVintage 2,Track 3 represent another giant step closer to reaching that goal. The first upgrades you’ve probably noticed are that our magazine is thicker and has a glued binding.We significantly increased the number of pages by including more editorial and photos. I wanted to give you a magazine that looks, feels and reads more like a coffee table book—a magazine you’ll want to display, enjoy at your own pace, show off to your friends, and regularly refer to for more information about this perfect lifestyle combination. You may recall Melissa Chavez, whose first editorial contribution to WAJ was last issue’s wine region story on Sonoma County. She did such a great job we not only invited her back, but augmented her writing responsibility five-fold. Looking forward, in every issue of WAJ, Melissa will bring us regional wine features for each of California’s “top five”: Sonoma, Napa, Paso Robles, Santa Barbara, and Temecula. In future issues, WAJ will be exploring other wine regions in California, Oregon,Washington, and NewYork, to name a few. From our debut issue, Cameron Smith took the reins of our “Jazz Juice” column, giving us heaps of fun insights into his globe-trotting, jazz celebrity-filled lifestyle.Thanks Cameron! I want to thank you for the rollicking ride.You are one cool dude and will be missed. After this fond farewell to Cameron, I am ecstatic to inform you we now have a new columnist on board.To downplay it a bit (then knock your socks off!), she is one cool and musically talented artist: the legendary jazz vocalist, two-time Grammy-winner andTony-winning stage actress, the great Dee Dee Bridgewater. I am thrilled that such an accomplished singer and actress has agreed to write for WAJ.Whew, I need to pause now to catch my breath.… We’ve got something really good fermenting here! And, we’re getting close to developing the ideal blend of wine and jazz and writers and editorial and images to create what I hope will be a magazine that, not only stands out creatively with our own unique look and voice, but stands head and shoulders above the rest.This is a challenging endeavor as, unlike other publications, we have two discerning audiences to inform and inspire—therefore, two magazine genres to compete in rather than one.This unique challenge is part of what makes WAJ so rewarding for me. The other part is the universally positive feedback and encouragement I get from both sides of the aisle—wine lovers of all stripes, along with jazz aficionados, both in the business and fans. Lastly, recognition must go out to a person who works quietly behind the scenes, yet is as vital to the quality of our final WAJ product as any of us. A special thank you to our copy editor, Diane Browning. Enough said by me. Please enjoy our enhanced WAJ magazine! ~ MIKE NORDSKOG LETTER FROM THE PUBLISHER the ideal blend PHOTO:HeatherVanGaale www.WineandJazz.comLetterfromthePublisher 6 ~ MIKE NORDSKOG PUBLISHER’S PICK: Dry Creek Vineyard 2006 Beeson Ranch Zinfandel Dee Dee Bridgewater Eleanora Fagan (1917-1959): To Billie With Love From Dee Dee {
  • 3. apa Valley embodies all that is glamorous about the world of fine wine. Extravagant architecture, formal gardens, and uninterrupted rows of meticulously tended vines suggest that California’s spin on New World winemaking is not only tame, but a terribly civilized business. Though it boasts a supersized reputation, in terms of actual size the Napa Valley is not nearly as large as it seems. Little more than ten percent the size of Bordeaux, the French winemaking region to which it is most often compared, Napa Valley is less than five miles across at its widest point and only 30 miles in length. Extending diagonally northwest to southeast, this legendary valley is delineated by the Mayacamas Mountains on the west and the Vaca Mountains to the east. Climate and soil variation along this 30-mile stretch of terroir create a generous palette of wine flavors to please even the most finicky artisan winemaker. The climate here is warm by day, especially along the northern sector of this valley which ends near the lively spa town of Calistoga. Heat-loving grapes like cabernet sauvignon and merlot flourish here and continue to excel down the length of the valley. World class wines are crafted from grapes grown in the soils surrounding the wine town of Rutherford, only to be outdone by wines harvested from the rarified mountain vineyards rising up, up, and away from the valley floor. Venture to the southern terminus of the NapaValley AVA, and it’s a different story altogether. Here lies the much cooler Los Carneros district, a sub-appellation shared with neighboring Sonoma County. Even on the warmest summer evening, a sweater is a necessity in Carneros due to bracing winds and fog blowing inland off the San Pablo Bay. In response to the chilly growing conditions, this sub-appellation of the Napa Valley is planted almost exclusively to cool-loving grapes that yield emphatic varietal expressions of chardonnay and pinot noir. Napa trailblazers The NapaValley AmericanViticultural Area (AVA) was formed in 1981, although historical records reveal winemaking began in the early 19th century as missionaries and European settlers established their own roots in this stunningly beautiful valley. George CalvertYount secured a Spanish land grant back in 1831, becoming its first white settler.The first commercial vineyard was planted by John Patchett in 1858. Soon thereafter, Charles Krug founded the first commercial winery in St. Helena, followed SchramsbergVineyards, a Calistoga landmark immortalized in by Robert Louis Stevenson in his lively travel memoir, Silverado Squatters. H.W. Crabb, the botanist of the bunch, experimented with 400 varieties in pursuit of the perfect grapes (1868).There was Jacob and his brother Frederick Beringer in Spring Mountain (1876), Captain Gustave Niebaum’s Inglenook (1879), and Georges de Latour’s BeaulieuVineyard estate near Rutherford (1900). The NapaValley rose to international acclaim in 1976 as a result of the “Judgment of Paris” blind tasting which pitted the best of French wines against California finest vintages. In both the red and white wine categories, NapaValley bottlings emerged victorious, leaving the French feeling quite blue, while affirming what the Golden State vintners already knew in their hearts. Movie fans may want to revisit this stunning stateside victory as depicted in the recent indie film “Bottle Shock” (2008). Decades later, indignant French winemakers demanded a rematch. At “The Judgment of Paris” 30th Anniversary tasting, American wines once again took the top spots—five of them this time —again, all from the NapaValley. Certainly, Robert Mondavi deserves much of the credit for advancing the reputation of Napa Valley wines. An early supporter of technological advances, he created new brands and provided major philanthropic donations to the region. In 2007, the Culinary Institute of America inducted him into the Vintner’s Hall of fame. A year later, the Robert Mondavi Institute at University of California at Davis opened, just five months after his death at age 94.Background Photo: Carneros Winescape PHOTO: Tom Moyer Napa Valley
  • 4. An enigmatic lifestyle Small communities like St. Helena and Oakville dot the NapaValley, where Ford pickups park com- fortably alongside Ferraris. A pervasive sophistication is unmistakable, but guardians of the grape cannot afford to ignore make-or- break realities.While sleepy tourists are still counting sheep, local grape growers have already raced to redeem their future harvests threatened by frost. Here, one can find multimillion-dollar resorts, a modern-day castle, decorative storefronts, a vintage wine train, or a 150-year-old barn under towering redwoods. There are top-rated restaurants, spas, world-class resorts, hot springs, and galleries displaying works by talented artists. When aromas of grilled meats and veggies mingle with vintage cabernet beckons, a quick stop at a winery suddenly becomes a day trip. California’s NapaValley is rife with opportunities to engage and indulge all the senses. Consider the brief overview of possibilities before planning your next visit (on the following page). Enjoy! Carneros winescape PHOTO: Tom Moyer Small but mighty It may come as a surprise that the NapaValley accounts for only five percent of the total United States vineyard acreage. From largest to smallest in volume, its grape varietals include cabernet sauvignon, merlot, chardonnay, sauvignon blanc and pinot noir. Relative newcomers—sangiovese, syrah, petite sirah, cabernet franc, pinot noir, petit verdot and malbec—now collectively outnumber merlot vines. Most wines from this prestigious AVA retail between $30 and $50, but can easily ascend to hundreds of dollars per bottle. Not unlike framed masterpieces, NapaValley’s “liquid art” is often collected as such. According toTerry Hall, spokesperson for the Napa ValleyVintners Association, “Millennials are driving the American wine industry.They are the first generation to grow up with the Internet so they are information-savvy.They also grew up knowing terms, like ‘organic,’‘sustainable,’ and‘heirloom,’ and are wildly interested in the source of their products—food and wine.” WITH SCENIC BEAUTY AND CLIMATE RIVALING THE FRENCH COUNTRYSIDE, NAPA VALLEY REMAINS UNSURPASSED AS NORTH AMERICA’S PREMIER LOCALE FOR THE CULTIVATION OF WINE GRAPES. IT’S ALSO THE MOST VISITED, AND FOR A VERY GOOD REASON: SUPERLATIVE WINES. Castello di Amorosa Winery turretin Calistoga, CA PHOTO: Jim Gateley CONTINUED ON PAGE 48 www.WineandJazz.com 47 WineRegion:NapaValley 4747
  • 5. CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ Brannan’s Grill Great food, award winning wine list and live jazz Calistoga: 707.942.2233 BrannansGrill.com Downtown Jazz & Blues Festival/ Blues in the Vineyards November 1 (1-5 p.m.); November 2 (12-4 p.m.) Downtown venues and participating wineries Calistoga: 707.942.6333 Miner Family Vineyards Winery and cave tours by appointment, Benedetto Guitars concert in August Oakville: 800.366.WINE, MinerWines.com Napa River Wine, Crafts & Jazz Festival Celebrating handcrafted arts, live jazz music and wine Napa: 707.257.0322 NapaWineAndCraftsFair.com Robert Mondavi Winery Expansive mission-inspired winery, art displays, open-air concerts Oakville: 888.766.6328 RobertMondaviWinery.com Silo’s Jazz Club Dinner, wine, and live jazz Wednesday thru Saturday nights Napa: 707.251.5833, SilosJazzClub.com WINERIES Castello di Amorosa Winery A modern-day castle and winery Calistoga: 707.967.6272 CastelloDiAmorosa.com Hill Family Estate Winery Heirloom BLT Bar and 2008 Sauvignon Blanc Release Party in August Yountville: 707.944.9580 HillFamilyEstate.com Sterling Vineyards Tour, art gallery, and aerial tram ride with admission Calistoga: 707.942.3345 SterlingVineyards.com ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS Artisan Wine Tours Personalized luxury Napa Valley tours Sonoma: 877.414.2021 ArtisanWineTours.com Bonaventura Balloon Company Napa Valley passenger flights Napa: 800.FLY-NAPA BonaventuraBalloons.com Chardonnay Golf Club Semi-private, 18-hole course meanders through 150 acres of vineyard Napa: 800.788.0136 ChardonnayGolfClub.com Harvest Stomp Hudson Vineyards in Carneros on August 28, sponsored by Napa Valley Grape Growers Napa: 707.224.8644, NapaGrowers.org Napa Valley Opera House Constructed in 1879, 500 seats, live concerts Napa: 707.226.7372 NVOH.org Napa Valley Wine Train Three-hour, 36-mile trip in a 1915-17 Pullman dining car or 1947 Vista Dome car Napa: 800.427.4124 WineTrain.com Oakville Grocery Wines, picnic supplies and specialty foods Oakville: 707.944-8802 OakvilleGrocery.com LODGING Arbor Guest House Bed & Breakfast Garden setting, three-course breakfast, WI-FI, fireplace, Jacuzzi Napa: 707.252.8144 ArborGuestHouse.com Best Western Elm House Inn Well-priced hotel with amazing cookies and “Napa” ambience Napa: 707.255.1831 Book.BestWestern.com Napa River Inn Historical waterfront landmark with all the modern amenities Napa: 877.257.8500 NapaRiverInn.com The Cottages of Napa Valley Privacy, well appointed cottages, breakfast baskets, Bouchon baked goods Napa: 707.252.7810 NapaCottages.com The Inn On First San Francisco-style B&B, Cordon Bleu-trained chef, dog-friendly Napa: 866.253.1331 TheInnOnFirst.com RESTAURANTS ABC Bakery/Alexis Baking Company Delicious breakfast and lunch, decadent desserts Napa: 707.258.1827 AlexisBakingCompany.com Bistro Don Giovanni Fresh pasta, brick oven pizza, terrace, views Napa: 707.224.3300 BistroDonGiovanni.com Tra Vigne Italian-style Sunday brunch St. Helena: 707.963.4444 TraVigneRestaurant.com INFORMATION Napa Valley Vintners Association Non-profit trade association St. Helena: 707.963.3388 NapaVintners.com Our Napa Valley Picks Castello di Amorosa Winery art walls PHOTO: Jim Gateley 3 guitars at Gargiulo Vineyards PHOTO: Artisan Wine Tours The Cottages of Napa Valley CONTINUED FROM PAGE 47 www.WineandJazz.com 48 WineRegion:NapaValley
  • 6. ave you ever wondered what the Napa Valley was like before its current chic and gentrified incarnation? The answer lies a mere 30-minute drive west over the mountains. Once you drop down into Sonoma County’sValley of the Moon, you’ll discover vineyards unfurling at a more leisurely pace among gently rolling hills punctuated by mossy ancient oaks that exude the solidity of the ages. The Sonoma Valley is a quiet, peaceful, and romantic place. Sound like the wine country of your dreams? In Sonoma Valley, it’s your dream come true. There’s a compelling reason why SonomaValley is the real deal: it’s the birthplace of California winemaking.This is where it all began, folks, and the imprint of the region’s wine history is scattered all over the valley. For starters, head on over to the City of Sonoma’s charming and historic Sonoma Plaza, a gathering place for the city’s many festivals andTuesday farmers markets. Begin your tour at the Mission San Francisco Solano which anchors the northeast corner of the plaza.The last built and most northern outpost along California’s mission trail, when this structure was dedicated in 1824 it was blessed with sacramental wines made by Franciscan friars who planted their first vineyards here back in the early 1800s. Decades later, the Mission’s proliferation of rootstock throughout Northern California made for another unseen blessing.The friars’ wine grapes were laying the foundation for an essential component of California’s agricultural economy. The importance of SonomaValley’s wine grapes was not lost on Agoston Haraszthy, a native of Hungary who wisely purchased a Sonoma parcel in 1856 and named it BuenaVistaWinery the following year. Armed with 100,000 imported European vine cuttings, Haraszthy planted and grew both his vineyard and his legacy, which remain intact in the present-day reincarnation of the winery. For history buffs, a self-guided tour of the historic BuenaVistaWinery is a must, second only to a visit to nearby Bartholomew ParkWinery. Once known as “The Castle,” this stunning old winery houses the SonomaValley’s History of Wine in America Museum, a fascinating collection of regional wine memorabilia. BACKGROUND PHOTO: Artist in Sonoma Valley by Robert Janover Sonoma Valley NATURAL BEAUTY, SMALL-TOWN CHARM, AND HISTORY ARE THE HALLMARKS OF SONOMA VALLEY. LITTLE WONDER THEN WHY SO MANY POETS, ARTISTS, FARMERS, AND VINTNERS LIVE HERE—AND WHY WORLD-WEARY SOULS FROM OTHER PLACES SO OFTEN WISH THEY DID, TOO. H C
  • 7. PHOTO: Sonoma Cty Tourism Bureau Defined by diversity The simple use of the name “Sonoma” often leads to confusion in a wine growing region as large and scattered as Sonoma County. “There are actually three ‘Sonomas,’” explains Tina Luster of the Sonoma CountyTourism Bureau. “One of is the City of Sonoma, located on the southwest section of the county. Another is SonomaValley, referring to the 17-mile sub- appellation off to the east and, finally, there’s Sonoma County, which encompasses the town, neighboring towns, and the valley.” The SonomaValley, encompassing the southeastern section of Sonoma County, is the largest of the four viticultural areas in the region. SonomaValley stretches from the populous county seat of Santa Rosa, southward to San Pablo Bay.The valley encompasses over 15,000 acres of fertile, loamy soil, but is also arid, receiving an annual average of only 29 inches of rain.The Sonoma Mountain and Mayacamas Mountain ranges also help shelter the valley from westerly fog and precipitation. In the upper warmer locations, zinfandel and cabernet sauvignon thrive. Midway below, sauvignon blank and merlot are grown. In the cooler areas, chardonnay, pinot noir, riesling and gewürztraminer make for excellent still and sparkling wines. Visiting SonomaValley offers a colorful patchwork quilt of things to do and see.Wine lovers, foodies, outdoor enthusiasts, and shoppers seeking relief from the same-old-same-old franchise scene will all find plenty to enjoy in this charming and unique part of wine country. Here, diversity harmonizes into a refreshingly unique and enjoyable whole experience. A regional highlight for readers of all stripes is the Jack London State Historic State Park, just minutes away from the Sonoma Plaza in the village of Glen Ellen. Surrounded by redwoods, firs, and oaks, visitors entering London’s well preserved stone cottage called “The House of Happy Walls” share an authentic experience while browsing the museum dedicated to his beloved “Beauty Ranch” in theValley of the Moon. A lake, bathhouse, and ruins of the “Wolf House” nearby also draw many to stroll the trails of this historic park site dedicated to one of America’s cultural icons. While in Glen Ellen, stop by the B.R. CohnWinery and Olive Oil Company to sample fine wines and artisan olive oils pressed from fruit harvested from ancient picholine olive trees planted back in the 1870s. Music lovers may want to time their visit to coincide with the winery’s annual Fall Music Festival, to be held this year on October 8-9. Proprietor Bruce Cohn, manager of the Doobie Brothers for 36 years, has not yet announced his upcoming line-up of artists, but last year’s star-studded event spotlighted Journey,Taj Mahal and, of course, his old pals the Doobie Brothers. Venture further southeast and you’ll arrive at the sleepy wine town of Kenwood. Here, the fifth generation of a grape growing family operates the Kunde Family Estate, begun after their ancestors imported and planted grape cuttings from France’s Chateaux Margaux and Lafite Rothschild in 1879. Drive a few miles further, and watch for the sign to Chateau St. Jean, a welcoming winery housed in a gracious old landmark mansion. Foodies could spend days sampling every cuisine to be found in the region, where fresh produce is showcased in almost every offering. Or, take a bit of Sonoma home with you. A chunk of mezzo secco jack from theVella Cheese Company will surely provide a happy counterpart to that coveted bottle of local chardonnay or cabernet sauvignon. There’s something for everyone here—whether book readings, golf, and jazz festivals, to sculpting, theater, or exploring newfound trails. SonomaValley’s towns, wineries, and homesteads seem to provide an artist’s palette for adorning vibrant swaths of green. Amidst such diversity, everyone can enjoy soaking up the intrinsic beauty and culture that is Sonoma. And who wouldn’t want to toast to that? CONTINUED ON PAGE 52 Count Agoston Haraszthy Russian River PHOTO: George Rose www.WineandJazz.com 51 WineRegion:SonomaValley Armstrong Woods Guerneville
  • 8. C M Y CM MY CY CMY K CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ Cline Cellars Dixieland Jazz & Wine Festival A salute to jazz, wine, and food July 17 Sonoma: 707.940.4025 ClineCellars.com Petaluma Wine Jazz & Blues Festival Great jazz and blues on Sonoma County’s southside August 7 Petaluma: 707.769.9650 PetalumaWineJazzAndBluesFestival.org Russian River Jazz & Blues Festival Amazing jazz weekend, great food, wine tasting on the river, September 11-12 Russian River: 510.655.9471 OmegaEvents.com WINERIES Buena Vista Winery Historic stone winery, California’s first Sonoma: 800-926-1266 BuenaVistaCarneros.com Bartholomew Park Winery Stunning setting, wine history museum, and exclusive winery-only wines Sonoma: 707.935-9511 BartholomewParkWinery.com B.R. Cohn Winery & Olive Oil Company Plenty of history, including rock & roll greats Glen Ellen: 800-330-4064 BRCohn.com Kunde Family Estate Sustainable winegrowing, eco-tours, guided wine cave tours Kenwood: 707.833.5501 Kunde.com Chateau St. Jean Gracious 1920s manse surrounded by beautiful gardens Kenwood: 707.833.4134 ChateauStJean.com Tin Barn Vineyards No-fuss tasting room and warehouse winery, where the wine is the star Sonoma: 707.938.5430 TinBarnVineyards.com ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS ‘Bubbles & Brunch’ at Estate Restaurant Weekly Sunday brunch from 10-3 pm with a $3 Prosecco Bar Sonoma: 707.933.3663 Estate-Sonoma.com Sonoma Wine Country Weekend Throughout Sonoma Wine Country September 3-5 800.939.7666 SonomaWineCountryWeekend.com Valley of the Moon Vintage Festival Patron’s Night Gala, festival with wine tasting, food, art, Grape Stomp, local bands, September 24-26 Sonoma: 707.996.2109 SonomaVintageFestival.org LODGING Beltane Ranch Gorgeous two-story ranch farmhouse inn. Farm-fresh produce, gardens, views, chickens Sonoma: 707.966.6501 BeltaneRanch.com Inn at Sonoma Close to Sonoma Plaza, breakfast, wine, hors d’oeuvres, cookies Sonoma: 888.568.9818 InnAtSonoma.com MacArthur Place Former 1850s Burris-Good estate with 64 rooms, gardens and pool Sonoma: 707.938.2929 MacarthurPlace.com Sonoma Chalet Eclectic, unpretentious wine country cottages with light breakfasts Sonoma: 707.938.3129 SonomaChalet.com The Hidden Oak Inn Restored 1914 Craftsman-style bungalow with nightly wine tasting Sonoma: 707.996.9863 HiddenOakInn.com RESTAURANTS Harvest Moon Café Seasonal food based on availability of fresh produce, al fresco dining on large patio Sonoma: 707.933.8160 HarvestMoonCafeSonoma.com LaSalette Restaurant Contemporary Portuguese cuisine Sonoma: 707.938.1927 Lasalette-Restaurant.com Santé Michelin-rated restaurant at Fairmont Mission Inn & Spa Sonoma: 707.938.9000 Fairmont.com/Sonoma Taste of the Himalayas A refreshingly flavorful dinner option in wine country Sonoma: 707.996.1161 HimalayaNext.com The Girl and the Fig Brunch, cheese cart, and a ‘Rhone-Alone’ wine list Sonoma: 707.938.3634 TheGirlAndTheFig.com INFORMATION Sonoma County Tourism Bureau ‘America’s premier wine, spa and coastal destination’ Santa Rosa: 800.576.6662 SonomaCounty.com Sonoma Valley Vintners & Growers Alliance Sonoma: 707.935.0803 SonomaValleyWine.com Our Sonoma Valley Picks Beltane Ranch Buena VistaWinery Cline Cellars Dixieland Jazz & Wine Festival CONTINUED FROM PAGE 51 www.WineandJazz.com 52 WineRegion:SonomaValley
  • 9. BACKGROUND PHOTO: Paso Robles vineyards by Paso Robles Vintners’ and Growers’ Association “AN ESTIMATED 58 PERCENT OF PASO ROBLES WINE GRAPES ARE SOLD TO WINERIES OUTSIDE THE AREA, MAKING THEM THE ‘SECRET INGREDIENT’ IN OTHER CALIFORNIA WINES.” – PASO ROBLES WINE COUNTRY ALLIANCE he pioneer spirit is very much alive and well in Paso Robles. Although cattle ranchers, almond growers and grain farmers were more prevalent here only a decade ago, their influence lingers on in this colorful, up-and-coming wine appellation. But don’t let the rustic and unpretentious feel of this oak-studded region fool you. According to wine insiders, the Paso Robles AVA, one of California’s fastest growing wine regions, has “the right stuff” to one day challenge the NapaValley as our nation’s premier red wine producing region. Established in 1983, the Paso Robles AVA—located equidistant from San Francisco and Los Angeles—is the true center of California’s Central Coast. Bounded to the north by the Monterey County line, sheltered by the Santa Lucia Mountains to the west, the boundary of this sprawling new wine region stretches past the remote outpost of Cholame— where a James Dean roadside memorial marks this notorious east-west highway intersection—before narrowing southward toward Santa Margarita.Today, the fact that just 26,000 acres of the 614,000 acre region have already been planted to wine grapes reveals the sleeping production potential of this gangly young wine region, blessed by nature with equally large reserves of quality. Today, cabernet sauvignon is king among the 40 different grape varietals grown in Paso Robles and vinified by its approximately 200 wineries. Other leading varieties are merlot, syrah, and zinfandel. In addition, the amount of acreage dedicated to Rhone varietals is on the rise, drawing fervent fans among self-proclaimed “Rhone Rangers.”According to Gary Eberle, Paso Robles AVA co-founder, “As Americans become more sophisticated, they’re branching out into Rhônes, Cal-Italian, and Spanish varieties. People are looking for new and interesting things, but cabernet, chardonnay, and pinot noir won’t be replaced.With the proliferation of new labels and marketing, it’s hard.You have to make good wine.” Modern wine pioneers Beginning in the 1960s, a new wave of pioneers sparked the wine industry. Leading the charge in Paso Robles was Dr. André Tchelistcheff, who planted the first chardonnay, cabernet sauvignon, and pinot noir vines. Following his lead were more grape growers and winemakers: Bob Young, Herman Schwartz and Gary Eberle, Dave Caparone, Treana Winery and Chateau Margene among them. T Paso Robles
  • 10. Eberle Winery Castoro Cellars gardens It is Gary Eberle who is credited with planting the region’s first syrah wines. In 1984, this producer’s leadership was obvious when his winery’s cabernet sauvignon accompanied President Ronald Reagan’s historic six-day visit to President Li Xiannian in China. Arnold Schwarzenegger followed suit by serving Eberle wine when President George W. Bush visited Southern California. For all the fanfare, Gary Eberle readily lauds both youthful and seasoned vintners in his own “who’s who” of Paso Robles. A genuine world apart from executive winemaker rock stars, these Paso neighbors are quick to share a glass, viticultural know-how, or even a tractor, long after the day is done. “Tom Meyers at Castoro Cellars is truly outstanding. Bill Sheffer (Halter Ranch) is another,” Eberle insists. “Jason Haas (Tablas Creek) and Austin Hope (Hope FamilyWines) are two guys I’m really impressed with. Jason’s dad, Robert, was an icon when I was just starting. He’s turning out some really nifty wines. KenVolk, L’Aventure, Villicana, and Opolo make spectacular wines. So do Paul Hoover (StillWatersVineyards), Calcareous, Saxum, andVic Roberts (Victor Hugo).Vic’s the most underrated. He’s always been a good winemaker, and he has no ego. Robert Nadeau turned out to be a super talent, and CassWinery … wow!They all make really great wine. Paso Robles doesn’t have to play second fiddle to anyone,” Eberle says with a smile. “We can be really proud of what we make.” CONTINUED ON PAGE 56 True terroir and diversity One defining feature of the Paso Robles AVA is theTempleton Gap, a series of seven passes on Paso’sWestside. Fog and afternoon breezes wind through these corridors, funneling relief where 50-degree spikes can swell thermometers by mid-afternoon. “There’s a misconception that the hottest vineyards are on the Eastside and the coldest are on theWestside.That’s not true,” explains Gary Eberle, who says plenty of cooling breezes flow in fromTempleton Gap, as “it comes whistling through” his Paso Robles vineyards off Highway 46 East. “The coldest climate, in fact, is in Santa Margarita. No one district is especially unique. It’s all unique!”Vintner Steve Cass couldn’t agree more. “There’s no stop sign for those breezes at Highway 101 (which divide west and east).Westside properties significantly north or south of the Gap receive even less of its benefit. Since it’s primarily west- to-east breezes that fan out, the further inland it comes.” “The best word to describe Paso Robles is diversity,” says Joel Peterson of Hope FamilyWines. “We can grow a vast array of grapes and make really exceptional wines. Many different varieties grow well here.That diversity is our biggest strength.” “With eleven defined microclimates that transcend our region, it’s less of a story of east and west and more a story of true terroir and diversity,” observes ChristopherTaranto of the Paso RoblesWine Country Alliance. “There are 30 different soil series across the Paso Robles AVA.That quality—combined with the long growing season, large diurnal temperature swing, and different microclimates—affords us the ability to create a multitude of different wines that cannot be pigeon-holed into one definable category. In Paso Robles, there’s so much for the wine lover to discover while visiting.” Why not pull out your travel planner and discover Paso Robles for yourself … before the crowds arrive.To get you started, on the following page are a few suggestions for things to do and see in this wonderfully laid-back corner of California wine country. www.WineandJazz.com 55 WineRegion:PasoRobles
  • 11. CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ Castoro Cellars Award-winning wines. Intimate, starlit concerts among the vines; Concerts this season: Café Musique, Peppino D’Agostino, Karla Bonoff, Kenny Edwards Templeton: 805.467.2002 CastoroCellars.com D’Anbino Vineyards & Cellars Winemaking musicians with live music year-round Paso Robles: 805.227.6800, DAnbino.com WINERIES Caparone Winery Italian varietal specialists. Father and son are winemakers by day, Usonia Jazz Band musicians by night Paso Robles: 805.467.3827, Caparone.com Eberle Winery Among Top 10 medal award-winning U.S. wineries. Winemaker Dinner in the Caves, October 15 Paso Robles: 805.238.9607 Eberlewinery.com Hunt Cellars Colonial-style wine tasting room Paso Robles: 805.237.1600 HuntWineCellars.com Sculpterra Winery & Sculpture Garden Family estate winery. Giant granite sculptures, picturesque landscape Paso Robles: 888.302.8881 Sculpterra.com Tobin James Cellars Award-winning wines, restored stage coach stop Paso Robles: 805.239.2204, TobinJames.com Victor Hugo Winery Templeton area winemaker with a reputation for excellence Templeton: 805.434.1128 VictorHugoWinery.com ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS 80th Annual Pioneer Day Parade and Celebration Saturday, October 9; Free activities: old-fashioned parade, bean feed in City Park, antique/classic cars, gazebo concert, kid’s pet show, more Paso Robles: 805.238.2038 PasoRoblesPioneerDay.org California Mid-State Fair July 21 - August 1; Top-notch live concerts and county fair, Jazz Night, Wine Plaza 805.239-0655 or 800.909.3247 MidStateFair.com Harvest Wine Weekend October 15-17; Winery-hosted activities; 130 wineries, 150 events Paso Robles: 800.549.9463 PasoWine.com Jack Creek Farms Fifth-generation Barlogio family-run farm, country store, bakery West Templeton: 805.238.3799 JackCreekFarms.com The Wine Line Flexible ‘hop on, hop off’ tour to 60 wineries Paso Robles: 805.610.8267 HopOnTheWineLine.com The Wine Wrangler Wine tour packages with knowledgeable guides Paso Robles: 805.238.5700 TheWineWrangler.com LODGING Adelaide Inn Value meets quality Paso Robles: 805.238.2770 AdelaideInn.com Best Western Black Oak Motor Lodge Near Margie’s Diner and fairgrounds Paso Robles: 805.238.4740 BestWesternBlackOak.com Hotel Cheval Equestrian-inspired luxury downtown Paso Robles: 886.522.6999 HotelCheval.com JUST Inn Bed & Breakfast at Justin Vineyards & Winery Exquisite wine country suites, fine dining Paso Robles: 805.238.6932 JustinWine.com La Bellasera Hotel & Suites Luxury boutique hotel, Enoteca Restaurant & Bar; Monthly concerts in an intimate setting Paso Robles: 805.238.2834 LaBellasera.com RESTAURANTS Artisan Unique approach to the American Bistro Paso Robles: 805.237.8084 ArtisanPasoRobles.com Bistro Laurent Casual elegance, Country French cuisine Paso Robles: 805.226.8191 BistroLaurent.com Hoover’s Beef Palace Ranch-style breakfasts and décor to match Templeton: 805.434.2114 Il Cortile Ristorante Rustic Italian with quality ingredients Paso Robles; 805.226.0300 IlCortileRistorante.com Villa Creek Restaurant Rancho Mission Cuisine, Villa Creek Cellars wines Paso Robles: 805.238.3000 VillaCreek.com INFORMATION Paso Robles Wine Country Alliance Appellation, winery and events information Paso Robles: 800.549.9463 Experience Paso Robles Directory of things to see and do Paso Robles: 888.988.7276 TravelPaso.com Our Paso Robles Picks Hotel Cheval Downtown Paso Robles PHOTO: PRVGA Castoro Cellars’ John Jorgenson Quintet CONTINUED FROM PAGE 55 www.WineandJazz.com 56 WineRegion:PasoRobles
  • 12. BACKGROUND PHOTO: Temecula Valley Vineyards at Sunset f you aren’t already familiar with this rising star—located in the southwest corner of California’s Riverside County, an hour from San Diego and a mere half-hour east of the Pacific Ocean—that’s probably because Temecula is among the newest on California’s growing list of wine appellations. Because of theTemeculaValley’s proximity to the sea, its vineyards benefit from warm, dry days cooled at night by brisk sea breezes flowing through the Rainbow Gap and other points of entry carved out of the coastal mountain range. In fact,Temecula’s dramatic diurnal temperature swings closely mimic the grape-growing conditions in Napa Valley. Little wonder then there are approximately 3,000 acres already planted, with plans for more in the future. Similarities in climate aside, it is the unique soils that anchor and nourish the vines that make wines fromTemecula so unique. Here, decomposed granite provides distinction for fruit grown in naturally well drained soils. Local winemakers believe that the presence of red clay, dark loam, and sandy components lend further complexity to the grape. Situated at an average elevation of 1,500 feet,Temecula grapes flourish, happily free of the threat of mold until harvest. A rich history, steeped in sun and granite Although literal translations vary, Temecula is derived from the Indian word, “Temecunga,” meaning “place of the sun” or “where the sun breaks through the mist.”The surrounding hillsides were once home to the Temecula tribe as early as 900 A.D. The various cultural settlements that stretched clear to the coast were all known as “Luisenos,” as many had become subject to influence by nearby Mission San Luis Rey. Trappers, hunters and explorers accessed several area trails between 1820 and 1846, which later became the root source of the Southern Emigrant Trail. Historical records, such as field surveyor’s notes, newspapers, travelers’ journals, diaries, legal records, maps, and photographs help corroborate their locations. If those ancient trails could talk, one may imagine the stories they could reveal from society’s growing pains: California Gold Rush discoveries in 1848, the Butterfield Overland Mail route between San Francisco and St. Louis, CivilWar soldiers assigned to their posts, the influx of railroad transportation before the turn of the century, and thriving growth as a working ranch town.Today, modern-day counterparts soldier through one of these trails on a less treacherous commute: Highway 79 South. An appellation is born In 1968,Vincenzo and Audrey Cilurzo established the first commercial scale vineyard (now BellaVistaWinery), while BrooksideWinery began its own vineyard plantings. A year later, CallawayVineyard andWinery was established, followed by Mount Palomar in 1975. Nearly two-dozen wineries followed. By 1984, theTemecula AVA was official; a decade later, the appellation was renamed theTemecula Valley AVA, which now encompasses 33,000 acres. Planted acreage includes chardonnay, merlot, sauvignon blanc, viognier, syrah, and pinot gris grapes. Cabernet sauvignon, zinfandel, and pinot noir also thrive along with smaller percentages of other varietals. The wineries, about three-dozen and growing, are an easy drive from the center of town. From large-scale operations to smaller, privately owned boutique wineries, the open spaces around the area enable many of the vineyards to be close by and accessible. One of the smaller, well-established wineries is Palumbo Family Vineyards & Winery, run by Nicholas and his wife, Cindy. Their 13-acre estate produces 2,500 cases per year of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet franc, merlot, and NORTHERN CALIFORNIA HAS LONG BEEN THE MAINSTAY OF AMERICAN WINEMAKING FOR MANY AN AFICIONADO. AMONG THE NEWEST OF WINE APPELLATIONS IS TEMECULA VALLEY, TUCKED IN THE CORNER OF RIVERSIDE COUNTY, AN HOUR FROM SAN DIEGO AND JUST THIRTY MINUTES FROM THE PACIFIC OCEAN. WHO WOULD HAVE THOUGHT THAT THIS NOSTALGIC LITTLE COUNTRY TOWN WOULD EMERGE TO GIVE THE SUPERSTARS A SERIOUS RUN FOR THE GOLD? Temecula Valley I
  • 13. sangiovese, plus a new block of viognier and syrah. Nicholas is a big believer in what he finds are “two basic ingredients in making fine wines—the fruit itself and the barrels they age in.” Phil and Carol Baily are the owners of BailyVineyard &Winery. These modern-dayTemecula winery pioneers have crafted estate wines from vineyards planted in 1982 and currently produce 5,000 cases annually. Specializing in red Bordeaux varieties, their efforts have yielded an impressive array of gold medals from State Fair competitions that include California, San Francisco, Los Angeles and Orange County, as well as the San FranciscoWine Competition. Regardless of the accolades, Phil doesn’t take himself too seriously. He attests, “So what makes a good wine and what makes a bad wine? Basically, it’s simple.There are really only two things to consider,” he says. “A good wine is a wine that smells good with no disagreeable odors, a wine that is smooth in the mouth, and a wine that leaves a pleasing and lingering aftertaste.” Want to pull out all the stops in wine country? No problem. Temecula knows how to do fancy without the pretense at South CoastWinery Resort and Spa.The Grapeseed Spa andVilla accommodations are first-rate. But beyond the grand fountain entrance and rustic-beamed ceilings, a statuesque bobcat also provides a memorable tasting room welcome. Beyond pleasant décor, South Coast possesses a dizzying array of nearly 1,000 regional and international awards for their wines in only six year’s worth of production, with two dozen awards in 2008, alone.To top it off, South Coast was awarded the distinction of “BestWinery in California” in 2009, its second consecutive year to win this honor. Owned by Jim Carter, wines from South CoastWinery’sWild Horse Peak vineyard speak volumes. Here, afternoon breezes wield their way through vineyards of largely syrah and sangiovese grapes, which helps to produce healthy berries for irresistible wines for 50,000 cases. Not jaded by success, Jim still takes a simple, but refreshingly enthusiastic approach to wine grape cultivation: “All we do as a farmer is we work with what we know the grape is trying to do, and then we guide it to get the very best fruit that we can get to make our wine.” Master winemaker Jon McPherson and winemaker Javier Flores share a similar philosophy. Jon says, “It’s about letting the grapes speak. Javier and I simply listen and then carefully nurture the process.” Preserving Old Town Temecula “OldTown”Temecula originally served as a supportive hub for Vail Ranch, an 87,000-acre cattle and agricultural operation from 1904 to 1964. Later, the community experienced a revitalization that initially began in the 1960s, but proceeded in earnest in the 1980s. A sense of history has been integral to what has become a rapidly growing and thriving community of more than 100,000 residents. Careful planning has prioritized centrally located access to performing arts, historical and children’s museums, downtown small businesses, and neighborhood restaurants. A large-scale civic center construction project is in the works, geared to meet the needs of a population that has doubled over the last decade. A walk through town is pleasant, and one is challenged to tell new construction from old.The City Council offered incentives for business owners to create storefronts that look a century or two old, even up close.When hunger strikes, locals and visitors enjoy old-fashioned juicy burgers, real-deal milkshakes, root beer floats, and house wine by the glass at Mad Madeline’s Grill on Front Street, where 18 hamburger choices and indecision collide.Water misters also provide welcome summertime comfort during the wait for half-pound Blue Cheese Burgers with bacon,Texas Burgers with grilled pastrami, and Buffalo Burgers.There’s even a dog- friendly patio, ideal for travelers with man’s best friend. At Public House, generous eight-ounce pours of red, white, or sparkling wines accompany buttermilk-soaked calamari steak strips and Pile O’ Pork Shanks. If there’s room for dessert, a decadent S’More Brownie or farm-fresh Berries, Cake ’N’ Cream might do the trick. Add live music, a flickering fire on the patio, a harvest moon, and you have one pleasant sensory overload. There’s much to do in theTemecula wine region in summer, fall, and year-round. Music lovers can groove to eight bands in three locations at theTemecula International Jazz Festival, go hot air ballooning or golfing, visit antique shops and malls, or simply enjoy the clippety-clop of horse-drawn carriage rides through the vineyards.The variety only adds to all the fun. Meanwhile, vintners at wineries large and small seem to share a collective approach to keeping winemaking enjoy- able and uncomplicated. If this translates to great wine,Temecula is a region that’s sure to become more avidly pursued in the years to come. Temecula Valley Balloon & Wine Festival conTinued on page 60 www.WineandJazz.com 59 WineRegion:Temecula
  • 14. Celebrating Wine and Jazz baily’s Fine dining California cuisine in the heart of Old Town. Live music on weekends Temecula: 951.676.9567 OldTownDining.com Falkner Winery Winery, restaurant, weekend jazz concerts Temecula: 951.676.8231 FalknerWinery.com Keyways Vineyard & Winery “Wine Down Fridays” - mellow music, wine and dinner Temecula: 877.539.5297 KeywaysWine.com thornton Winery “Champagne Jazz” concert series Temecula: 951.699.0099 ThorntonWine.com Wineries longshadow ranch Horse-drawn carriage wine tasting trips 951.587.6221 LongshadowRanchWinery.com Miramonte Winery Hip vibe with live music on Fri/Sat, from 7-10 p.m. Temecula: 951.506.5500 MiramonteWinery.com Palumbo Family Vineyard & Winery Intimate, family-run vineyard & winery Temecula: 951.676.7900 PalumboFamilyVineyards.com robert renzoni Vineyards Tasting room featuring Italian style wine portfolio; Picnic grounds Temecula: 951.302.8466 RobertRenzoniVineyards.com stuart Cellars Family 40-acre estate vineyard with 360-degree views Temecula: 888.260.0870, StuartCellars.com Wilson Creek Winery Home of the award-winning Almond Champagne Temecula: 951.699.9463 WilsonCreekWinery.com aCtiVities and eVents temecula Valley international Jazz Festival Honoring Ella Fitzgerald on July 9-11, 2010 951.678.2517 TemeculaJazzFest.com ‘taste of Winemaking’ seasonal seminars July 24, 2010 and October 23, 2010 Callaway Vineyard and Winery 951.676.4001, CallawayWinery.com Peltzer Pumpkin Farms Open daily: September 18 to October 31, 2010; Mini-railroad tides, pony rides, petting farm, tractor collection, pig races, and pumpkins! 951.695.1115, PeltzerFarms.com temecula Outdoor Quilt show October 2, 2010; Hundreds of quilts displayed in Old Town PMB 435, 27475 Ynez Road, Temecula, CA 92591 ValleyOfTheMistQuilters.com a grape escape balloon adventure Year-round excursions, weather permitting; Sip Wilson Creek Winery Almond Champagne from mid-air! 800.965.2122, HotAirTours.com the grapeline Wine Country shuttle 888.894.6379, GoGrape.com lOdging south Coast Winery resort & spa Luxurious villas, full-service spa, restaurant, winery 866.994.6379, WineResort.com temecula Creek inn Relaxed and spacious, with sweeping golf greens 877.517.1823, TemeculaCreekInn.com inn at Churon Winery Elegant French Country chateau and winery 951.694.9070, InnAtChuronWinery.com Pechanga resort & entertainment Center Largest casino resort in California/ concert venue 888.732.4264, Pechanga.com restaurants Meritage at Callaway Al fresco, vineyard view dining featuring Tapas menu Temecula: 951.587.8889 CallawayWinery.com smokehouse restaurant at Ponte estate Winery Grape wood-fired food, small-batch wines, vineyard views 951.252.1770, PonteWinery.com Mad Madeline’s grill Burgers, buffalo, and pork ribs 877.805.6653, MadMadelinesGrill.com the great Oak steakhouse Angus beef and more than 900 wine selections 951.770.8507, Pechanga.com temecula Pizza Company Inventive, fresh-crust pizzas, hot sandwiches, wines 951.694.9463 TemeculaPizzaCompany.com inFOrMatiOn temecula Valley Convention and Visitor’s bureau 951.491.6085, TemeculaCVB.com temecula Valley Winegrower’s association 800.801.9463, TemeculaWines.org Our Temecula Valley Picks Stuart Cellars vista Old Town Temecula Gateway Live music every Friday & Saturday night at Miramonte Winery COnTinued FrOM paGe 59 www.WineandJazz.com 60 WineRegion:Temecula
  • 15. Santa Maria Valley & Sta. Rita Hills f you’re looking for a truly “no-frills” wine getaway, one that’s the real deal—no pinky fingers posing in mid-air, no scents of framboises lurking in your wineglass, no menus with ingredients you’ve never heard of, no limos or Ferraris, and not a franchise in sight—then get thee to the “far side” of Santa Barbara County. Instead of taking the turn-off for Santa Ynez, keep heading north to visit the sub-appellations of Santa Maria Valley and Sta. Rita Hills, where you’ll discover a refreshingly unpretentious slice of California wine country, along with chardonnays and pinot noirs that are, hands-down, as good or better than many French Burgundies selling at twice the price. Continue north to Santa Maria Valley It’s the lay of the land that makes this region so unique. Unlike all other coastal valleys in California, instead of running north- south, the Santa MariaValley runs directly west-east. Fog and wind pour in freely from the sea across this broad and open inland plain, sweeping across the City of Santa Maria and beyond, blanketing this AVA which encompasses 80,000 acres of vineyard potential. Established in the early 1980s, this AVA rises from elevations barely above sea level near the Santa Maria River to as high as 3,000 feet atTepusquet Peak.Toward the west, the valley receives copious morning fog and predictable afternoon winds, which blow well into the eastern part of the region to cool hotter terrain during occasional summer temperature spikes. Modest rainfall provides for more hang-time on the vine, allowing concentrated flavors to develop, a real qualitative advantage for the rows of mostly chardonnay and pinot noir planted in this region. Although the area is classified as Climate Region I, rivaling Champagne in France and Rhine in Germany, a few Climate Region II conditions may be found further inland. The oldest, largest, and most widely respected vineyard in the Santa Maria Valley is Bien Nacido Vineyards which grows chardonnay, pinot noir, pinot blanc syrah, and merlot. This vast I BACKGROUND PHOTO: Sta. Rita Hills IT MAY COME AS A SURPRISE TO FANS OF THE HIT FILM “SIDEWAYS” THAT ALL WINES FROM SANTA BARBARA DO NOT HAIL FROM SANTA YNEZ. UP THE ROAD APIECE, GREEN CARPETS OF GRAPE VINES QUIETLY COEXIST WITH SLOPING RANCHLANDS, ANCIENT RED OAKS, AND MILES OF UNSPOILED EARLY CALIFORNIA BEAUTY. IN PLACES SO REMOTE THAT CITY SLICKERS CALL THEM “THE BACK OF BEYOND,” WINE GRAPES HAVE BEEN GROWING WITHOUT RED CARPET FANFARE FOR DECADES.
  • 16. Santa Barbara Mission hallway PHOTO: Anders Illum operation sets a high standard for local wine grapes, and numerous wineries scattered throughout the region—from the San Rafael Mountains to the Santa Maria Mesa—line up to buy its ultra-premium fruit.The vineyard’s first plantings hailed from the early rancheros established in 1857. A century later, the fifth-generation Miller Family bought this acreage and neighboring property to restore the original RanchoTepusquet. It was the Millers who named the property “Bien Nacido,” a Mexican expression akin to “born with a silver spoon.” One of the oldest wine producers is FoxenWinery & Vineyard, established in 1985 by BillWathen and Dick Doré on the historic 2000-acre RanchoTinaquaic. Among the first to plant vines in the 1970s, they continue growing chardonnay, syrah, and cabernet franc on their small, hillside vineyard.Their newest offerings include Bordeaux and Cal-Italian style wines which augment their traditional pinots, chardonnays, and Rhone-style blends. Certainly no expense is spared in the vineyard or cellar at Cambria under the direction of proprietress Barbara Banke. Cambria specializes in wines made from 100% estate-grown grapes harvested from vines anchored in the unique soils of the Santa Maria Bench. Cambria’s handsome and comfortable tasting room is open daily. Be sure to sample Cambria’s Julia’sVineyard Pinot Noir, which offers an exceptional quality-price ratio, along with many limited edition wines sold only at the winery. Before leaving this area, once ruggedly picturesque cowboy country populated by Basque and Portuguese ranchers (many of those who remain are steadfast in their preference for speaking their own local idiom), do yourself a favor and watch for a roadside stand selling local strawberries —the most tender and aromatic, same-day picked strawberries imaginable. Head for the Sta. Rita Hills Established in 2001, this sub-appellation was previously known as the Santa Rita Hills AVA until 2006, when the slight name change came at the behest of Vina Santa Rita, a major wine producer in Chile concerned about losing its thunder as a brand. Sandwiched between Buellton, a pit-stop along Highway 101, and blue collar Lompoc along the coast road, this region offers few amenities to the visitor. But, it does offer rapturously fine wines worthy of even the most demanding Burgundy connoisseurs. Weather here is the coldest of the cold, and many growers shy away from such marginal climatic conditions. Maritime fog and breezes blow in from the sea through an expansive corridor that tunnels between the northern La Purisima and Santa Rosa Hills. Both the SantaYnez River and Santa Rosa Road run parallel across the southern portion, where vineyards cluster in the lower elevations. These coveted microclimates make ideal conditions for growing ultra-premium chardonnay, pinot noir, and syrah, along with smaller amounts of pinot gris, sauvignon blanc, grenache, and viognier. Be sure to check out the wines by Fiddlehead, Sea Smoke, and numerous other small producers in this region of artisan-crafted wines. Not all wineries offer daily tasting, so you may want to call ahead. But in the Sta. Rita Hills AVA, odds are good that you’ll actually get to meet the winemaker and even share a glass with him or her in an unhurried pace with zero pretension. Here, vintners tend to let the wine and the area’s natural beauty do the talking. Small wonder why almost everyone who visits comes back for more. Here, it is alma, explains Jim Fiolek, director of the Santa Barbara CountyVintner’s Association. “It’s a Latin word, meaning to ‘nourish or incite the spirit.’ I like that.When you look up the hills, there’s nothing grand, yet there’s something great. It’s this overwhelming force you’re drawn into. One can see why the Chumash Indians held this land in such reverence.” Speaking of reverence, nothing in this region, not even its stellar wines, are held in higher esteem than Santa Maria-style BBQ, perfectly seasoned slabs of melt-in-your-mouth tri-tip served with another regional specialty, silky smooth pinquinto beans—ahhh! It’s all served at its peak of perfection at the Hitching Post—with two locations to choose from, in Buellton or coastal Casmalia. Where to stay during your visit? A posh sanctuary awaits you at the Fess Parker Inn and Spa in nearby Los Olivos. But if you’re feeling wacky enough for a fantasy retreat, check out one of the kitschy theme rooms—your choice of Gypsy, Pirate, King Tut, Roman, or French—atTheVictorian Mansion in the old stagecoach stop town of Los Alamos, a charming rural village that hearkens back to another era. cOnTInued On PAge 64 www.WineandJazz.com 63 WineRegion:SantaMariaValley&Sta.RitaHills
  • 17. CELEBRATING WINE AND JAZZ Rideau Vineyard Iris Rideau’s New Orleans jazz roots define this historical landmark tasting room, with live jazz or blues on weekends. Solvang: 805.688.0717 RideauVineyard.com WINERIES Alma Rosa Winery & Vineyards Founded by veteran vintner Richard Sanford; sustainable practices in organic vineyard Buellton: 805.688.9090 AlmaRosaWinery.com Foxen Winery & Vineyard One of the oldest Santa Maria Valley vineyards; solar-powered operation Santa Maria: 805.937.4251 FoxenVineyard.com Cambria Winery & Vineyards Estate-grown pinot noir, chardonnay, syrah Santa Maria: 888.339-9463 CambriaWines.com Richard Longoria Wines Wine tasting in the garden in downtown Los Olivos Los Olivos: 805.688.0305 LongoriaWine.com Fiddlehead Cellars Pinot noir specialists, plus sauvignon blanc Lompoc: 805.742.0204 FiddleheadCellars.com ACTIVITIES AND EVENTS California Wine Festival Old Spanish Nights, Sunset Rare and Reserve Wine Tasting, Beachside Wine Festival July 15-17 Santa Barbara: 866.273.4148 CaliforniaWineFestival.com Chumash Casino Resort Casino and Four Diamond resort, live concert entertainment Santa Ynez: 800.CHUMASH ChumashCasino.com Lotusland Truly inspirational botanic garden of exotic and native plants on 37 acres, garden shop, informative docents provide two-hour walking tours Santa Barbara: 805.969.9990 Lotusland.org Old Spanish Days Fiesta August 4-8 Celebrates the history and culture of the American Indian, Spanish, Mexicans and early settlers. Free and paid events: arts, crafts, fiesta foods, music, dancing, horse shows, rodeos, carnivals Santa Barbara: 805.962.8101 OldSpanishDays-Fiesta.org Old Mission Santa Barbara ‘Queen of the Missions’ was built in 1786 Santa Barbara: 805.682.4713 SantaBarbaraMission.org Sustainable Wine Tours Extensive tour services of Santa Barbara appellation area wineries Santa Barbara: 805.698.3911 SustainableVine.com LODGING Fess Parker Inn & Spa Country elegance. Each room decorated by Mrs. Parker. Los Olivos: 800.446.2455 FessParker.com The Victorian Mansion Fantasy-themed rooms in an old-fashioned village Los Alamos: 808.344-1300 TheVick.com The Ballard Inn Charming country bread and breakfast in wine country near Santa Ynez Ballard: 805.688.7770 BallardInn.com RESTAURANTS Hitching Post Restaurants, I & II Real-deal Santa Maria-style BBQ and worth the drive Casmalia (the original!) 866.879.4088 HitchingPost1.com Buellton: 805.688.0676 HitchingPost2.com Ellen’s Danish Pancake House Where the locals go to enjoy breakfast anytime. Huge crepe-like pancakes to twelve-egg omelets. Buellton: 805.688.5312 272 Avenue of the Flags, Buellton Far Western Tavern ‘Home of the Famous Bull’s Eye Steak;’ authentic Santa Maria Valley red oak BBQ Guadalupe: 805.343.2211 FarWesternTavern.com Trattoria Grappolo Country regional cuisine by Italian chefs: Leonardo, Alfonso, and Giorgio Curti Santa Ynez: 805.688.6899 TrattoriaGrappolo.com INFORMATION Santa Barbara County Vintners’ Association Santa Ynez: 805.688.0881 SBCountyWines.com Our Santa Maria Valley & Sta. Rita Hills Picks The Pavilion at Lotusland PHOTO: J. Brew ‘Billy Goat’ Merlot grows in Solvang PHOTO: Travis S.PHOTO:RebeccaStanek CONTINUED FROM PAGE 63 www.WineandJazz.com 64 WineRegion:SantaMariaValley&Sta.RitaHills