This document provides guidance on maintaining professional hardwood floors. It outlines inspection procedures to identify floor types and existing damage. Floor damage is categorized into 5 levels based on severity. Intensive cleaning and two coating system options are described. Intensive cleaning aggressively scrubs floors with alkaline cleaners to remove built-up dirt. System option 1 combines cleaning with applying a quick coat of renewer to refresh the floor's sheen. System option 2 combines cleaning with applying a durable protective coating to refinish the floor. Detailed instructions are provided for inspection, cleaning and applying coatings.

1. Professional Hardwood Maintenance
Technical Manual

2. Table of Contents
Identification of Flooring Types 2
Equipment/Products Needed 2
Inspection of the Floors 3
Evaluating Damage 4
System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes 8
Intensive Cleaning 9
1. Heavy Duty Cleaning
2. Neutral Cleaning
WoodGlo™ Option #1 11
WoodGlo™ Option #2 12
Testing for Wax or Polish 14
1. Adhesion Test
Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275 15
Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced Technicians 16
After Coating 17
Post Coating Timing 18
Page 1 Table of Contents
© 2013 ServiceMaster Clean. All Rights Reserved.
Do not reproduce without permission from ServiceMaster Clean.

3. Identification of Flooring Types
 Ask the customer. They might actually know what brand it is and if
it is factory finished or site finished.
 Any floor that is site finished is definitely not laminate.
 Move your bare hand across a portion of the floor. If you can feel
the individual grains in the wood using your hand, you probably do
not have laminate flooring. Laminate flooring will have a smoother
texture than that of an engineered or solid hardwood floor.
However, some new factory finishes on engineered flooring are
also quite smooth.
 Look closely at your floor. Get down on your hands and knees if
you have to and take a close look at the floor itself. A laminate
hardwood floor is composed of fiber board and the layer that looks
like wood is actually an incredibly detailed photograph. Hardwood
floor, on the other hand, is actual wood. Upon closer inspection
you will be able to easily tell if you're looking at a photograph of
wood or actual wood.
 Pull a floor register off and look at the edge of the flooring, or go
into a closet and pull up some of the quarter round (be sure to
replace it) to see the edge of the floor.
Products & Equipment
Needed
 WoodGlo™ Automatic Floor Scrubber
 Hard Surface Tool, Hand Brush or
Doodlebug Pad
 Microfiber Cleaning Pad and Microfiber
Application Pad
 Clean empty 5 gallon bucket (for premixing
cleaning solutions)
 Several clean towels
 Wet floor signs
 T-bar applicator or ¼” nap paint roller
 10” painting pad (to cut in the edges) and
paint roller tray
 Masking tape and plastic sheeting (to
protect uncoated areas)
 Heavy Duty Cleaner, Neutral Cleaner,
Renewer (Option #1)
 Tykote® Bonding Agent (Option #2)
 Arcylic Test Kit
 StreetShoe® 275 Finishes with catalyst
(Option #2)
 PH test strips
 Nace care bucket for dirty microfiber mops
 Booties
 Spray maker (Optional)
 Latex gloves
 Protective eye-wear
 Furniture coasters/felt pads
Page 2 Identification of Flooring Types

4. “
“
4) Pre-clean a small area of floor.
 Apply a small amount of DryClene or mineral
spirits to a cotton ball.
 Place cotton ball on the floor in area of suspected
wax.
 Allow to sit for 2-3 minutes.
 Using your fingernail, scratch the wetted area and
see if a residue peels off. Look closely, this could
most likely be a wax or acrylic finish.
 Neither Renewer nor StreetShoe® will adhere to
this surface without proper and thorough
preparation, but it can definitely be cleaned.
Buffing with a roto with a white pad or carpet
bonnet will be your safest option.
Inspection of the Floors
It is extremely important that a careful inspection of the floors be done,
taking note of the following items listed below. A mistake due to
carelessness in examining the floors on the front end could have very
expensive repercussions on the back end since the average installation
cost for a hardwood floor ranges from $8-$10/square foot. Be sure to
use the inspection sheet for the WoodGlo™ System.
Steps of the Inspection Process
1) Identify flooring types.
Refer to previous section—Identifying Floor Types.
2) Note any existing problems.
3) Determine previous maintenance products used by testing for
wax or acrylics.
-For acrylics– follow directions in Acrylic Test Kit.
-For waxes– follow directions below.
Note that you should not use either of the
recoating products under these conditions:
 Bare Floor – the floor will clean fairly well,
but you will most likely create grain raising
or fuzz on the surface. Stains could likely
penetrate pretty deep into the wood. It is
recommended that a professional
contractor be contacted to sand and
refinish the floors.
 Wax on Floor – the wax on the floor will
inhibit adhesion of both the Renewer and
StreetShoe® products if it is not properly
and thoroughly removed.
 Laminate Wood – if something goes
wrong, there is no way to remove the
product without potentially damaging the
floor.
– Bare wood – Water damage
– Pet stains – Indentations
– Nail holes – Deep gouges
– Scratches – Cracked boards
– Discoloration – Other
Some additional talking points to cover with the
customer:
 Find out what the customer has done
in the past to maintain the hardwood
floors (dust mopping, damp mopping,
any professional service, etc.) This
could help identify the causes of
damage.
 Discuss customer expectations (see
customer expectations section of
sales manual).
Page 3Inspection of the Floors

5. Evaluating Damage
TYPE OF
DAMAGE
LEVEL ONE
ON THE COATING
LEVEL TWO
LIGHTLY IN THE
COATING
LEVEL THREE
IN COATING BUT
NOT IN THE
WOOD
LEVEL FOUR
THROUGH THE
COATING AND IN
THE WOOD
LEVEL FIVE
HEAVILY DAMAGED
COATING IN THE
WOOD
Scuffs
Easily removed
with cleaning. No
damage to the
finish.
Removed with
cleaning. May
need buffing or
Renewer.
Scratches
Easily removed
with cleaning. No
damage to the
finish.
Removed with
cleaning. May
need buffing or
Renewer.
If somewhat deep
but not in the
wood, a light
sanding may be
needed.
Scratches go
through the finish
and into the wood.
Scratches go through
the finish and into
the wood.
Gouges
Gouges go
through the finish
and into the wood.
Gouges go through
the finish and into
the wood.
Discoloration
(pet stains)
May be removed
with Heavy Duty
Cleaner.
Lightly sanding the
affected area may
be needed.
Heavily discolored
finish. Sand and
refinish.
Wood is actually
deeply discolored.
Replace discolored
boards.
Loss of finish
Moderately worn
areas. Ideal for
StreetShoe®.
Heavily worn all
over. Grain texture
can be felt.
Heavily worn all over.
Grain texture can be
felt.
Water damage
Blushing or light
discoloration.
Heavy grain
raising.
Grain raised and
warped boards.
Loss of gloss
May be soil on the
surface dulling the
finish. Clean with
Neutral Cleaner.
Clean with Neutral
or Heavy Duty and
to apply Renewer.
Moderately worn
areas. Ideal for
StreetShoe®.
Finish essentially
gone on most of
the floor. Sand
and refinish.
Finish completely
worn off and non-
existent. Sand and
refinish.
Loss of color
Could be scratches
into wood, or worn
areas. Possibly
touch up with stain
markers.
Large areas of
missing color could
be worn areas.
Sand and refinish.
Large areas of
missing color could
be worn areas. Sand
and refinish.
Page 4 Evaluating Damage

6. Evaluating Damage (Continued)
TYPE OF
DAMAGE
LEVEL ONE
ON THE
COATING
LEVEL TWO
LIGHTLY IN THE
COATING
LEVEL THREE
IN COATING
BUT NOT IN
THE WOOD
LEVEL FOUR
THROUGH THE
COATING AND
IN THE WOOD
LEVEL FIVE
HEAVILY
DAMAGED
COATING AND
WOOD
Delamination
Finish losing
adhesion. Sand
and refinish.
Finish losing
adhesion. Sand
and refinish.
Indentations
Light dents like
scuffs repaired with
Renewer, possibly
several coats.
Moderate dents
require light
sanding and touch
up with
Recommendation
Clean & Renew the
floor (Up-sell
refinish).
Clean & Renew the
floor (Up-sell
refinish).
Clean & Refinish
the Floor with
StreetShoe®. May
need light sanding
in places.
Recommend professional sand &
refinish as floors have extensive
damage.
The following page contains photo examples of floor damage.
Page 5Evaluating Damage (continued)

7. Examples of Damage
Water Damage—Level Five Water Damage—Level Four
Loss of Finish—Level Three Scratches—Level Three
Delamination—Level Four Scuffs—Level Two
Page 6 Examples of Damage

8. Examples of Damage (Continued)
Delamination—Level Four Loss of Color—Level Three
Pet Stains—Level Five Scratches—Level Three
Gouges—Level Four Dents—Level Four
Page 7Examples of Damage (continued)

9. System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes
INTENSIVE CLEANING SYSTEM - Aggressively scrubs the
floors to remove a buildup of dirt and contaminants. This
can be done alone as a routine maintenance procedure.
Aggressively cleans: dirt, grease, hair, dust, built up residue,
contaminants.
 Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy
Duty Cleaner
 Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and
Neutral Cleaner
 Tack with Microfiber Cleaning Pad and Neutral
Cleaner
WOODGLO™ #1–A combination of the Intensive Cleaning steps and a quick and easily applied coat of
Renewer. This system removes dirt from the floor and restores a uniform sheen.
Aggressively cleans + refreshes the floor to a uniform sheen with Renewer.
 Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy Duty Cleaner.
 Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral Cleaner.
 Apply Renewer with a microfiber applicator pad.
WOODGLO™ #2–A combination of the Intensive Cleaning Step and StreetShoe®, a very durable protective
coating.
Aggressive cleaning + refinishes the floor to a uniform sheen of Semi-Gloss, Satin, or Super Matte, + provides a
durable protective coating.
 Scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy Duty Cleaner.
 Repeat scrub with Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral Cleaner.
 Apply Tykote® with a Microfiber Applicator Pad per directions.
Page 8 System Descriptions/Expected Outcomes

10. Intensive Cleaning—Step 1
Step 1—Scrub with Heavy Duty Cleaner
Heavy Duty Cleaner is a high alkaline, aggressive cleaner that will
easily remove trapped-in dirt and contaminants. Heavy Duty Cleaner
is the first step in the two-part Intensive Cleaning process:
1. Vacuum all loose dust and dirt from the floor.
2. Clean the floor using the Automatic Floor Scrubber and Heavy
Duty Cleaner solution:
a. Mix 1 part Heavy Duty Cleaner with 4 parts water in
solution tank.
b. Apply an even amount of solution to the floor with the
Automatic Floor Scrubber using the manual feed valve
to control solution flow. Do not allow solution to
puddle. While applying solution, vacuum and brush
should be operating. (See Automatic Floor Scrubber’s
manual for complete usage instructions.)
c. While applying solution, make sure to pay special
attention to corners. Use a clean mop or Hard Surface
Tool and Heavy Duty Cleaner solution to clean corners.
d. Repeat the procedure in each area of the floor until the
entire floor has been cleaned. For stubborn marks, dirt,
and shoe marks, use a moderately abrasive Doodle Bug
pad, brush, or sponge moistened with Heavy Duty
Cleaner. Rubber or latex gloves are recommended to
prevent skin irritation.
3. Empty soiled solution from the recovery tank into a sanitary
sewer such as a toilet.
***NOTE: If a floor is in excellent condition and not particularly dirty, you can forego using the Heavy
Duty Cleaner and start with the Neutral Cleaner through the machine, then proceed to the application of
the Renewer. However, with the application of the StreetShoe® finishes, you must follow the recom-
mended steps using Heavy Duty Cleaner.
Page 9Intensive Cleaning—Step 1

11. Intensive Cleaning—Step 2
Step 2—Scrub with Neutral Cleaner
Scrubbing with Neutral Cleaner is the second stage of the Intensive
Cleaning process. It is designed to neutralize the floor and remove
residue left from the Heavy Duty Cleaner. The two cleaners are
specifically formulated to remove different types of contaminants from
your floor and may not be combined into a single treatment.
1. Clean the floor using the Automatic Floor Scrubber and Neutral
Cleaner:
a. Mix 1 part Neutral Cleaner concentrate with 4 parts water
in solution tank.
b. Apply even amount of solution to the floor with the
Automatic Floor Scrubber using the manual feed valve to
control solution flow. Do not allow solution to puddle.
While applying solution, vacuum and brush should be
operating. (See Automatic Floor Scrubber operator’s
manual for complete usage instructions).
c. While applying solution make sure to pay special
attention to corners. Use a Doodle Bug or Hard Surface
Tool and Neutral Cleaner/water solution to clean corners.
d. Repeat the procedure in each area of the floor until the
entire floor has been cleaned.
2. Empty soiled solution from the recovery tank into a sanitary sewer
such as a toilet.
***NOTE: You do have the option to apply
Neutral Cleaner with a microfiber flat mop
for faster production rates. However this
could result in too much solution being
applied to the floor, slowing the dry time
and possibly raising the grain of the wood.
At ServiceMaster Clean, we highly
recommend using the manufacturer’s
recommended process of using Neutral
Cleaner through the automatic floor
scrubber.
Page 10 Intensive Cleaning—Step 2

12. WoodGlo™ Option #1
STEPS 1 & 2: Intensive Cleaning Process (Heavy Duty Cleaner and Neutral Cleaner)
STEP 3: WoodGlo™ Renewer
 Rock the product several times to mix contents.
 Squirt WoodGlo™ Renewer on to the floor and spread evenly across the floor with a clean microfiber pad. Work
in small sections and smooth the product out in the direction of the wood grain. Coat the entire room to ensure
an even appearance.
 One quart of Renewer should cover 500 square feet. DO NOT OVER—APPLY.
 A second coat may be applied after 2 hours.
 Allow the floor to dry for at least 1 hour before walking on it with socks.
 Furniture may be replaced after 24 hours and regular foot traffic may resume.
 Allow 24 hours before replacing rugs or cleaning with wood floor cleaners.
 Check SMClean University for the WoodGlo™ training for application techniques.
Page 11WoodGlo™ Option #1
Water-Based Urethane Finishes
 Water based urethane finishes are quickly becoming the industry standard for wood flooring protection because of their
many benefits.
 Quick cure times mean that you can put the floor back into use faster.
 Low VOC (Volatile Organic Compound) finishes are considered less harmful to the environment.
 Innovative nano-technology particles make these finishes some of the most durable coatings for wood flooring protection.

13. WoodGlo™ Option #2
STEP 1+2: Intensive cleaning process (Heavy Duty Cleaner and
Neutral Cleaner)
STEP 3: Tykote® + Top Coat
TyKote® replaces the messy process of sanding or screening wood
floors. TyKote® acts as the bonding layer between the existing floor
and StreetShoe® 275.
 Apply an amount of TyKote® to an area of the floor
approximately 3 inches wide by 4 feet long and use a clean
Microfiber Applicator Pad to spread it out to a thin, uniform
coat. Work around the floor until all areas have been coated.
Be sure that every area of the floor intended for recoat has been
wetted with TyKote® . Any missed spots may result in poor
adhesion of the topcoat.
 Allow TyKote® to dry (approximately 1 hour under good
conditions) before proceeding to the next step.
 TyKote® should be dry to the touch. Do not wait longer than 6
hours before applying the topcoat or the effectiveness of TyKote®
will diminish. If for some reason more than 6 hours lapses, it is
advisable to reapply the TyKote®. It is not necessary to repeat the
cleaning steps in this case as long as the area has remained clean
and dry during the elapsed time.
STEP 4: Top Coat
MIXING
 Use a stir stick to re-disperse any settlement and rock in the
container several times.
 While stirring finish, slowly add one 3-ounce bottle XL Catalyst
per gallon of StreetShoe® 275.
 After catalyzing, allow 5 minutes of “sweat in” time before
application.
APPLICATION
 T-bar Application: Pour a 3 inch tall by 4 feet wide puddle of
top coat along the far wall and use a T-bar applicator to apply
a uniform coat to the floor. Apply the finish with the grain of
the wood. Work carefully but quickly as water-based finishes
dry rapidly. Maintain a wet edge at all times.
***NOTE: It is important that only a very
thin, uniform coat of TyKote® be applied
(>2,500 sq.ft./gallon). Thicker coats will
serve no useful purpose and may in fact be
detrimental to your results as a whole. The
paint pad has less of a tendency to leave
applicator marks or puddles.
***NOTE: Make sure to feather out turns
made by the T-bar. Try feathering turns and
cutting in behind the T-bar with a 10” paint
pad. DO NOT CUT IN THE EDGES OVER A
FINISH THAT HAS BEEN DOWN MORE
THAN 5 MINUTES. Also, use the paint pad
when backing out of a room. The paint pad
has less of a tendency to leave applicator
marks.
Page 12 WoodGlo™ Option #2

14. WoodGlo™ Option # 2 (continued)
 Roller Application: Another method of coating uses a 1/4” nap roller
designed for smooth surfaces. Pour a 3 inch tall by 4 feet wide
puddle on the floor. Place the roller in front of the puddle and then
pull it back about 4” until the roller is saturated. Now push the roller
through the initial place where it was set down and feather up off
the floor. Continue to work across the floor and maintain a wet edge
at all times.
 One gallon of StreetShoe® should cover 500-700 square feet.
 If the floor is in relatively good condition, only one coat should be
necessary. If desired or if floor receives heavy traffic, a second coat
may be applied once the initial coat is dry (approximately 3-4 hours).
The second coat can be applied within 24 hours of the initial finish
coat without any further preparation besides tacking dust.
 Allow the floor to dry for at least 3 hours before walking on it with
socks.
 Furniture may be replaced after 24 hours and regular traffic may
resume.
 Allow two weeks before replacing rugs or cleaning with wood floor
cleaners.
 Check out the WoodGlo™ training course for application techniques
on Service Connection.
Page 13WoodGlo™ Option #2 (continued)

15. Testing for Wax or Polish
 Paste wax: When testing for wax, first lightly clean the
area with Neutral Cleaner. Using a small amount of
mineral spirits on a clean, white cloth, rub it on an area
of the floor that has not been exposed to high traffic.
If a discoloration or film appears on the cloth, or a
residue comes up while scratching with your fingernail,
then paste wax is likely present and a recoating system should not be used. The floor will either need to be re-waxed
or resanded.
 Acrylic polish or acrylic floor waxes: mix 1/4 tsp. of Heavy Duty Cleaner, 1/4 tsp. of household ammonia in 8 ounces
of water. Apply a few drops of this mixture on the floor in a corner of the room. If the spot turns white, acrylic wax is
most likely present. Clean the floor with Heavy Duty Cleaner and then recheck. Continue this cleaning step until the
polish has been removed. If you are unable to remove the acrylic polish in this manner, the coating system should
not be used.
 If the floor tests positive for acrylic after performing the Acrylic Test, this floor is a great candidate for the Intensive
Cleaning and Option # 1—WoodGlo™ Renewer. However Option #2—WoodGlo StreetShoe® should NOT be used
on the floor.
 Testing for acrylic using the Acrylic Test Kit should be performed at the commence of every job.
We have had success removing some waxes by adding 1 cup of ammonia to the Heavy Duty Cleaner solution.
ADHESION TEST
The Adhesion Test is a simple method to make sure of finish compatibility when recoating floors. ServiceMaster Clean always
recommends performing a test by recoating an area, then checking for adhesion to make sure the system will be successful.
The test area should be about the size of a playing card.
 Perform the same recoating system procedures that you will use on the floor in the test area.
 After drying overnight, cover the test area with a 4 inch section of masking tape. Step firmly on the tape with your
weight, then quickly rip the tape from the floor.
 Examine the tape and the floor closely for any removed finish.
 If the finish remains on the floor and not on the tape, your recoat most likely will be successful. If the majority of
finish is removed by the tape, then you will need to evaluate another recoating or re-sanding method.
*** NOTE: Do not use a coating system on floors
that have been previously maintained with wax or
polish without proper and thorough removal.
Page 14 Testing for Wax or Polish

16. Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275
 Use a fine abrasive paper (180 grit or finer) to smooth out the
scratch (1/2” to 1” wide) and gradually taper out to the regular finish
surface. If the scratch has exposed a different color than the floor as
a whole, the color could be matched with a suitable color treatment
such as Minwax paint pens. Check with your customer as to his or
her preference. Test the system by staining and finishing a separate
piece of wood (you must use the same type of wood as exists in the
floor) and compare it to the color of the floor. Wax-based color
sticks MUST NOT be used to match the color. The stain or dye used
must be fully cured to manufacturer’s specifications.
 When color is satisfactory and the area is dry, rebuild the repair area
to better match the rest of the floor by applying thin coats of the
Basic Coatings finish to the area, one coat at a time. Use foam paint
brush for best results.
 HINT: Using very thin layers of finish will yield the best results. Mix
only the amount needed for the repair.
 Apply the first layer of finish only to the center of the abraded area.
Successive layers may be applied as the previous coat dries (usually
about 1 hour). Gradually work out toward the edge of the repair area
with each successive coat with dry time between any two coats.
Three to five layers of finish will typically result in a repair that
cannot be seen in the completed floor.
*** NOTE: Scratches that go through
the existing finish into the wood will
require some extra time to repair.
Repairs should be done prior to the
refinish schedule since it may require
several hours for the repaired areas to
dry. If damages are deep and/or
extensive, it is recommended that a
professional floor contractor be
contacted for sanding and refinishing.
Page 15Repair Scratches with StreetShoe® 275

17. Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced
 One of the most important aspects in this process is to never leave standing water or cleaner on the floor. Standing
water that sets for any more than 5 minutes could create problems, such as floor cupping or delaminating, depending on
the quality or condition of the structure.
 Don’t spend forever brushing-out a water-based coating. They set up much faster than oil modified urethanes, but water
based usually flows out well on its own. Brushing after the finish starts to set will cause it to streak and remain that way.
Resist the temptation to keep brushing and re-brushing. Fix any flaws after the coat has fully dried.
 Mix the finish adequately before coating. Be sure to mix in any settlement on the bottom of the container with a stir
stick. Not mixing the finish can cause streaking in the final appearance.
 Bundle the finish. Never use 2 different gallons in a large room. On large floors, combine the finish in a larger container.
This will keep the sheen consistent.
 Clean and tack the floor before coating. It is even a good idea to clean the window sills and counter tops. A clean home
provides for a perfect finish.
 Adding up to 12 ounces of Dry Time Extender from Basic Coatings to StreetShoe® can slow dry times, thus giving the
product more time to flow and level.
 The roller application method can be helpful on tricky floors like kitchens and hallways.
 Apply an even pressure or no pressure to the applicator. Different pressures can lead to varying film thicknesses, which
could lead to varying sheens. Be consistent with your application across the floor.
 Be aware of your recoating window of opportunity. You may not need to abrade at all between coats. Basic Coatings
water-based finishes have a 24-hour recoat window. Use a surface-reading moisture meter to tell when you can apply
another coat of finish.
 Try to achieve the recommended coverage rates. Finishes are designed to be applied at a specific film thickness. If you
apply the finish at the recommended rate, it will have a
better chance to flow and level correctly.
 Make sure to turn off the HVAC system and close all
windows and doors while coating. This will keep the finish
from drying too quickly. After 30-60 minutes of no airflow,
the finish will tack over. At this point, open the floor to
airflow. You may use air movers to facilitate drying of the
finish if necessary.
NOTE: Make sure to feather out turns made
by the T-bar. Try feathering turns and cutting
in behind the T-bar with a 10” paint pad. DO
NOT CUT IN THE EDGES OVER A FINISH
THAT HAS BEEN DOWN MORE THAN 5
MINUTES. Also, use the paint pad when
backing out of a room. The paint pad has less
of a tendency to leave applicator marks.
Page 16 Advanced Coating Tips for Experienced Technicians

18. After Coating
 Use mats in traffic areas and doorways. Avoid some rubber-backed
mats as they may discolor floor.
 Place felt pads under furniture.
 Damp mop with the ServiceMaster Clean microfiber mop.
 Do not use wax or silicone-based polishes or cleaners. Some wood
flooring cleaners sold at your local store may actually make the floor
more difficult to clean and may create problems when the floor
requires refinishing. Use Neutral Cleaner.
 Avoid deep scratches. High heels and dog nails can damage wood
flooring. Do not slide furniture across the floor.
Page 17After Coating

19. Post Coating Timing
WoodGlo™ Option #1
 1-2 hours – Walk on floor (with stocking feet)
 24 hours – Return furniture to floor (use felt pads)
 24 hours – Return rugs to floor and maintain by cleaning with Neutral Cleaner
WoodGlo™ Option #2
 3-4 hours – Walk on floor (with stocking feet)
 24 hours – Return furniture to floor (use felt pads)
 2 weeks – Return rugs to floor and maintain by cleaning with Neutral Cleaner
Page 18 Post Coating Timing
NOTE: Be sure to sell or leave the homeowner with a ServiceMaster Clean Neutral Cleaner Maintenance
kit. Neutral Cleaner and the microfiber mop were specifically designed to clean wood floors without de-
positing a film. The key to extending the life of the floor is proper maintenance. Make the homeowner
aware that you are available for a periodic intensive cleaning, and that every year or so, you can come
back to add a protective coat of finish.
A properly maintained wood floor should never have to be sanded. Make sure to educate the homeowner
about the proper maintenance of wood floors.