3. • Marketing of adoration that relies
on the charisma of key players
can be dangerous since they are
likely to leave the company in a
more or less chaotic way
• John Galliano’s recent, rapid fall
from grace precisely illustrates the
fragility and socially constructed
nature of charismatic legitimacy
Source: Dion, 2011
4. The Choice of a New Artistic Director
Raf Simons
Biography
- Belgian designer born in Neerplet in 1968.
- He studied in industrial design then turned to
fashion, music and the arts in general.
- He launched a line of men’s clothing in 1995.
- He taught at the department of fashion of the
applied arts industry school of Vienna and
received the first prize for Swiss textile in
November 2003.
- He launched the Raf by Raf Simons label in
2005.
- Artistic Director for Jil Sander
- Collaboration with Fred Perry
- On April 2012, creative director of Dior
(Source: Edito Simons, 2011).
5. Choice Legitimization
« The key to maintaining luxury brand legitimacy is managing
the charismatic aura of the creative director » (Dion and
al, 2011)
According to Weber (1915/1996), charisma is “an exceptional quality that a man has (regardless of whether that
quality is real, presumed or faked),” which gives that person
an authority to which others submit. That is, charismatics
have a kind of aura.
Charismatic authority appears as “a domination over men to
which they submit because they believe in the quality
associated with that person in particular” (Weber 1915/1996,
p. 370).
6. Choice Legitimization
Similarity to Christian Dior
Points of similarity:
• Diormag: Like Christian Dior, he was not destined to
become a couturier
• Both Christan Dior and Raf Simons are passionate of art
• Both autodidacts
• Share a passion for gardens and flowers
• Raf Simons: « I have tried several times to read CD’s
autobiography, but I always interrupt my reading
because we have so many similarities, I find it difficult to
read…
Source: Diormag
7. Dior never talked about John Galliano
again, instead emphasized on the role of
Christian Dior
«The brand can first turn to the mythification
of the founder to make the charisma
continue and the aura not disappear»
« Galliano downgraded to a footnote »
Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
8. Choice Legitimization
Taste for Art
Frequent visitor of London’s Frieze Art Fair, Raf
Simons is a contemporary art collector
With couture, he gives a new dimension to his
passion: Art
Takes inspiration for his collections from Art (e.g.
Pablo Picasso, Andy Warhol, etc.)
Several collaborations with artists:
-Photography: Willy Vanderperre
-Painter: Sterling Ruby
-Make-up: Olivier Rizzo
Source: Diormag
9. Choice Legitimization
The Singularity of a Genius
Aesthetic gift of the creator
M. Toledano « I do not know many creative teams able to
do such great work. This is couture! »
Raf Simons expresses his desire to shake up things at Dior
"Cette collection se définit par la volonté de détourner
Dior, de le bousculer", explains Raf Simons. « I want to
write a new narrative »
10. Choice Legitimization
Deserving Successor to the New Look
• New Look:
Feb 1947: The editor-in-chief of Harper ’ s Bazaar, Carmel Snow
exclaimed, ”it’s quite a revolution, dear Christian! Your dresses have
such a new look!“
• Over six decades after its creation, the New Look revolution and its
spirit continue to inspire Dior
• Raf Simons « va inspirer et propulser dans le 21ème siècle le style
que Monsieur Dior a lancé depuis l'ouverture de sa maison et qui a
changé, dès sa première collection, les codes de l'élégance mondiale
»
• « On retrouve la silhouette emblématique de Dior reprise et
réinventée par Raf Simons depuis son arrivée »
Source: Diormag
11. Choice Legitimization
Legitimized by Authorities
Raf Simons is sanctioned by “the authorities in the art world” (Becker
1982)
Journalists: « Unanimously recognized as one of the most talented
designers of the Fashion world, by the world press»
(Diormag, 2012)
• Anna
Wintour
said
to
her
assistant
Grace
Coddington, « Amazing, don’t you think? »
Opinion leaders: « Celebrities love the designer's work »
Other designers: "Before the show, I found it difficult to imagine
what Raf would do at Dior" admitted Versace, "but from the very first
look today it made total sense."
• Albert Elbaz: “Absolutely poetic. It was perfection. Today was a
beautiful marriage between a designer and a house."
Source: The Guardian, 2nd July 2012
12. Choice Legitimization
Legitimized by Authorities
All have acquired the cultural capital that
allows them to consecrate the work of the
Artistic Director
(Bourdieu 1977; Becker 1982)
Source: Dion, 2006
13. Raf Simons
Charismatic Leader
• Dior legitimizes Raf Simons by:
– Using the Art World
– Assimilating him to the founder, Christian Dior
– Emphasizing his reputation in the Fashion
World and amongst the press
– Highlighting his technical skills and
uniqueness
