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The Empire Period
      Romanticism, Neoclassicism,
                  and the regency
Let’s Set The Stage


Romanticism

Neoclassicism
Romanticism

Free expression of the feelings of the artist

Artist’s feeling is law

invite the spectator to empathize with subject

return to “nature”
The Nightmare
Henry Fusili, 1781




                     The Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog
                       Caspar David Friedrich, 1818
A Feb. 1st 1816 print (published J. Taylor, London) which exemplifies the contrast between neo-classical vs. romantic styles of
landscape and architecture. This engraved plate accompanied Humphry Repton's 1816 book Fragments on the Theory and
Practice of Landscape Gardening.
Neoclassicism
Age of Enlightenment

Revival of style and spirit of classic antiquity

renewed study of antiquity

  egypt and napoleon

Part of romanticism
Romanticism
Neoclassicism




    http://www.wga.hu/art/s/schinkel/magic_fl.jpg; Queen of the Night, 1815 set design by Friedrich
    A Neoclassical view of the heavens, where the stars are literally all in a row.
Let’s Review

leisure class

working class

poor
The leisure class
The Leisure Class
The Working Class
The Poor




   Louis XVI helping the poor
Poor vs Leisure
Class
The french
revolution
The French
Revolution




      The execution of Marie Antoinette
Supporters

Red Cap of Liberty

Trousers, not Breeches

Revolutionary Cockade
Reign of Terror
1793 - 1794

Girondins vs Jacobins

Mass Executions

   16,000 - 40,000

Guillotine: National Razor

   Symbol for Revolutionary Cause
c.1790




c.1790   c.1800   c.1790
Fashion Elite

Female: The
Marvelous Ones

Male: The Incredible
Ones
1790 - 1820
British worried

  What happened in
  France

Napoleon tries to Conquer
all of europe

  English want to stop him
Fashion and excess


           Haircut a la Victime

           Red velvet ribbon around
           neck
Undergarments

Chemise

Light Stays

Petticoat
The Empire Line


 High Waist

 Scooped or Square
 Neckline

 Long Skirts
The Beau Monde

The Beautiful People

Upper 10,000

Own Land, don’t work Land

Idle Lives in search of
entertainment
Where to Hang Out
Men
                 Women
 Social Calls
                  Social Calls
 Social Events
                  At Home
 Their Club
                  Social Events
 Tattersall’s
                  Shopping
 Gaming Hell
Courting Rituals
The Season

Court Presentation

Come Out

Reputation
30
Reticule
31
Muff

                    Cockade Fan




       Shoes
               32
33
34
35
Outdoor garments

Pelisse

Spencer

Shawl with
Kashmir
Pattern
Accessories


  Reticule          Cockade Fan




               37




        Muff

                    Shoes
Gentlemen

            More subdued

            trousers instead of
            breeches

              except court
Undergarments
                X
Pantaloons
Stock and Cravats
                    X
Waistcoat
Coat
Outerwear
            X
Banyan/Dressing
Gown
Accessories


                   Hats




                                  Cravat worn with shirt and with ruffled front
                                                    shirt.

Spats or Gaiters
                          Boots
Children

Styles carry over from
1700s

Little Adults

Boys

  Skeleton Suits
For Further Study
    Illustrations Of Actual Costumes Or Illustrations From Contemporary Sources
    http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd.html
    http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htm
    http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-1829/1800-
    1829.html
    http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/
    http://www.costumes.org/TRAVEL/00pages/paris2001louvre2.htm
    http://www.costumegallery.com/

    French Revolution
    http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/rschwart/hist255-01/paris_homework/Fashion.html

    Contemporary Documents
    http://humanities.ucsd.edu/courses/kuchtahum4/texts/sans-culotte.pdf

    Dress For Special Occasions
    http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/mourn.html




CHAPTER ELEVEN
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD                                                                   48
AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD
c. 1790 - 1820                     © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
For Further Study
    Accessories
    http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1800to1817costumesparisiens.htm
    http://austentation.tripod.com/jewels.html
    http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.html
    http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and
        _Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm

    Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing
    Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion.
        Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists.
    Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press.
    Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books.




CHAPTER ELEVEN
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD                                                                    49
AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD
c. 1790 - 1820                       © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
Image Credits

    Various images used courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images.
    Photo of Spenser Jacket courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ].
    Image of Fur Muff, courtesy of [ www.fashionsinime.com ].
    Images of Men’s Shirt, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ].
    Image of Hessian and Top Boots, courtesy of [ www.sarahjuniper.co.uk ].
    Various images courtesy of Dover Publications.
    Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [www.clipart.com]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library;




CHAPTER ELEVEN
THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD                                                                                                                 50
AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD
c. 1790 - 1820                                             © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

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Regency Era Fashion

  • 1. The Empire Period Romanticism, Neoclassicism, and the regency
  • 2. Let’s Set The Stage Romanticism Neoclassicism
  • 3. Romanticism Free expression of the feelings of the artist Artist’s feeling is law invite the spectator to empathize with subject return to “nature”
  • 4. The Nightmare Henry Fusili, 1781 The Wanderer Above the Sea of Fog Caspar David Friedrich, 1818
  • 5. A Feb. 1st 1816 print (published J. Taylor, London) which exemplifies the contrast between neo-classical vs. romantic styles of landscape and architecture. This engraved plate accompanied Humphry Repton's 1816 book Fragments on the Theory and Practice of Landscape Gardening.
  • 6. Neoclassicism Age of Enlightenment Revival of style and spirit of classic antiquity renewed study of antiquity egypt and napoleon Part of romanticism
  • 8. Neoclassicism http://www.wga.hu/art/s/schinkel/magic_fl.jpg; Queen of the Night, 1815 set design by Friedrich A Neoclassical view of the heavens, where the stars are literally all in a row.
  • 13. The Poor Louis XVI helping the poor
  • 16. The French Revolution The execution of Marie Antoinette
  • 17. Supporters Red Cap of Liberty Trousers, not Breeches Revolutionary Cockade
  • 18. Reign of Terror 1793 - 1794 Girondins vs Jacobins Mass Executions 16,000 - 40,000 Guillotine: National Razor Symbol for Revolutionary Cause
  • 19. c.1790 c.1790 c.1800 c.1790
  • 20. Fashion Elite Female: The Marvelous Ones Male: The Incredible Ones
  • 21. 1790 - 1820 British worried What happened in France Napoleon tries to Conquer all of europe English want to stop him
  • 22. Fashion and excess Haircut a la Victime Red velvet ribbon around neck
  • 23.
  • 25. The Empire Line High Waist Scooped or Square Neckline Long Skirts
  • 26.
  • 27. The Beau Monde The Beautiful People Upper 10,000 Own Land, don’t work Land Idle Lives in search of entertainment
  • 28. Where to Hang Out Men Women Social Calls Social Calls Social Events At Home Their Club Social Events Tattersall’s Shopping Gaming Hell
  • 29. Courting Rituals The Season Court Presentation Come Out Reputation
  • 30. 30
  • 32. Muff Cockade Fan Shoes 32
  • 33. 33
  • 34. 34
  • 35. 35
  • 37. Accessories Reticule Cockade Fan 37 Muff Shoes
  • 38. Gentlemen More subdued trousers instead of breeches except court
  • 43. Coat
  • 46. Accessories Hats Cravat worn with shirt and with ruffled front shirt. Spats or Gaiters Boots
  • 47. Children Styles carry over from 1700s Little Adults Boys Skeleton Suits
  • 48. For Further Study Illustrations Of Actual Costumes Or Illustrations From Contemporary Sources http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/rd/rd.html http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/timelinepages/1800to1825a.htm http://dept.kent.edu/museum/costume/bonc/3timesearch/tsnineteenth/1800-1829/1800- 1829.html http://www.sensibility.com/vintageimages/1800s/ http://www.costumes.org/TRAVEL/00pages/paris2001louvre2.htm http://www.costumegallery.com/ French Revolution http://www.mtholyoke.edu/courses/rschwart/hist255-01/paris_homework/Fashion.html Contemporary Documents http://humanities.ucsd.edu/courses/kuchtahum4/texts/sans-culotte.pdf Dress For Special Occasions http://locutus.ucr.edu/~cathy/dress/mourn.html CHAPTER ELEVEN THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD 48 AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 49. For Further Study Accessories http://www.costumes.org/history/100pages/1800to1817costumesparisiens.htm http://austentation.tripod.com/jewels.html http://homepages.ihug.co.nz/~awoodley/regency/tie.html http://www.northampton.gov.uk/Museums/Collections/Boot_and _Shoe/History_of_Shoes/19th_Century.htm Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 1: 1660-1860. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. Waugh, N. 1991. The Cut of Men's Clothes, 1600-1900. New York: Theater Arts Books. CHAPTER ELEVEN THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD 49 AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  • 50. Image Credits Various images used courtesy of New York Public Library Digital Images. Photo of Spenser Jacket courtesy of [ www.trousseau.net ]. Image of Fur Muff, courtesy of [ www.fashionsinime.com ]. Images of Men’s Shirt, courtesy of [ www.vintageshirt.co.uk ]. Image of Hessian and Top Boots, courtesy of [ www.sarahjuniper.co.uk ]. Various images courtesy of Dover Publications. Various images in this chapter are courtesy of Claire King; [www.clipart.com]; Fairchild Publications, Inc.; Fairchild Library; CHAPTER ELEVEN THE DIRECTOIRE PERIOD 50 AND THE EMPIRE PERIOD c. 1790 - 1820 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

Editor's Notes

  1. Marianne Dashwood in Jane Austen's Sense and Sensibility is a famous proponent of the romantic aesthetic, while Edward Ferrars in the same book says "I like a fine prospect, but not on picturesque principles. I do not like crooked, twisted, blasted trees. I admire them much more if they are tall, straight, and flourishing. I do not like ruined, tattered cottages. I am not fond of nettles or thistles, or heath blossoms. I have more pleasure in a snug farm-house than a watch-tower--and a troop of tidy, happy villagers please me better than the finest banditti in the world."
  2. One of the most significant events marking the turn from the 18 th to the 19 th Century was the French Revolution. It would define the next thirty years, and indeed century in Europe. The French were allies of the Americans in their Revolution, and many in France wanted the freedom and democracy that had emerged in America.
  3. string of executions: Louis XVI , Marie Ant oinette , the Gir ondins , Philippe Égali té (Louis Philippe I I, Duke of Orléans) and Madame Roland , as well as man y others, such as pioneering chemist Antoine Lavoisier , lo st their live s under its blade.
  4. Supporters of the French Revolution adopted elements of dress that symbolized their political views. The Red Cap of Liberty Trousers (instead of breeches) The Revolutionary Cockade
  5. The Terror (or Reign of Terror, dated 9/5/1793 to 7/28/1794) was a period of violence that occurred after the onset of the French Revolution , incited by conflict between rival political factions, the Girondins and the Jacobins , and marked by ma ss execu tions of "enemies of the revolution." Estimates vary widely as to how many were killed, with numbers ranging from 16,000 to 40,000; in many cases, records were not kept or, if they were, they are considered likely to be inaccurate. The guillotine (called the "National R azor") bec ame the symbol of the revolutionary cause, strengthened by a string of executions: Louis XVI , Marie Antoinette , the Girondins , Philippe Égalité (Lo uis Philippe II, Duke of Orléans) and Madame Ro land , as we ll as many others, such as pioneering chemist Antoine Lavoisier , lost their lives under its blade.
  6. By the end of the revolution and the installation of a government consisting of a Directory of three men (Directoire), styles had significantly altered.
  7. From 1790 - about 1820s, it was a period marked in contrasts. The British were frightened that what happened in France would happen in England. Napoleon was hell-bent on conquering all of Europe. The British were just as hell-bent on preventing him. So, while France and England were at war, English aristocracy was emulating every French fashion possible, from food, to furniture, to fashion.
  8. This continues the trend in history where the upper registers of society make money off the land they own but do not work themselves. These elite members of society, the ton, led mostly idle lives in constant search of new gossip and entertainment Most common for men to spend their time at their club White’s: favorite of the Tory Party Brook’s: favorite of the Whig Party Some of the more disreputable (but still acceptable as long as they were discreet about it) hangouts were gaming Men also spent a lot of time at Tattersall’s, an premiere auction house for horses This auction house continues to be the premiere auction house for horses, and still boasts the trade/selling of hundreds of thoroughbreds a year Visits (social calls, being “at home”), garden parties, Venetian breakfasts, walks, rides, and drives in Hyde Park, poetry readings--all daytime activities Evening activities would include parties, balls, concerts, the opera, the theater Shopping expeditions were a favorite past time of fashionable young ladies (and gentlement, especially those known as dandies) Excerpt from SLIGHTLY MARRIED: The notion that Miss Benning, Lady Rochester’s fashionable dressmaker, would cancel all her other appointments for the next few days merely because the marchioness was bringing her nephews new bride to be outfitted for her court appearance and for what remained of the Season, had seemed to Eve to be a preposterous boast when the marchioness had mentioned it during the carriage ride to Bond street. She had not really believed it. Now she did. The Marchioness of Rochester, she soon realized beyond any doubt, was a very important personage indeed. And today she had the full weight of the authority of the Duke of Bewcastle behind her—another extremely formidable figure. And Eve was the wife of his heir. She was also that rare client of all dressmakers must dream of wistfully all their working lives—the one who needed simply everything. Not a single garment of those few she had packed and brought to London with her would do for Lady Aidan Bedwyn making her debut in British high society. Miss Benning took one look at the carriage dress Eve was wearing and agreed with the marchioness.
  9. Excerpt from SLIGHTLY MARRIED: The notion that Miss Benning, Lady Rochester’s fashionable dressmaker, would cancel all her other appointments for the next few days merely because the marchioness was bringing her nephews new bride to be outfitted for her court appearance and for what remained of the Season, had seemed to Eve to be a preposterous boast when the marchioness had mentioned it during the carriage ride to Bond street. She had not really believed it. Now she did. The Marchioness of Rochester, she soon realized beyond any doubt, was a very important personage indeed. And today she had the full weight of the authority of the Duke of Bewcastle behind her—another extremely formidable figure. And Eve was the wife of his heir. She was also that rare client of all dressmakers must dream of wistfully all their working lives—the one who needed simply everything. Not a single garment of those few she had packed and brought to London with her would do for Lady Aidan Bedwyn making her debut in British high society. Miss Benning took one look at the carriage dress Eve was wearing and agreed with the marchioness.
  10. They looked through fashion plate after fashion plate, the three of them, selecting designs for morning dresses, afternoon dresses, dinner gowns, ball gowns,
  11. carriage dresses, walking dresses, riding habits,
  12. cloaks, pelisses—the list went on and on despite Eve’s intense dismay. She might be in town for only three or four weeks, the marchioness pointed out when Eve voiced a protest, but she simply could not be seen in the same thing wherever she went. Such stinginess would reflect badly upon Aidan.
  13. And then there was the all-important matter of the court dress in which she would be presented to the queen. Eve soon learned that Queen Charlotte had some quite rigid rules about what was acceptable wear for ladies in her drawing room. The high-waisted, loose-flowing gowns currently in vogue were simply not allowed there.
  14. Court dresses must be wide-skirted and hooped and worn with a stomacher and hair plumes and lappets, in the fashion of a generation ago.
  15. And there had to be a heavy train too, exactly three yards long. Eve wondered if someone at court, some lowly footman perhaps, crawled from one lady to another with a measuring tape in his hands. And what fate lay in wait for the poor lady whose train was one inch too long or too short? Banishment from court and social ostracism for the rest of her life?