Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15

8,917 views

Published on

All of these slideshows are interactive and that's why they look jumbled up. They really are cool to look at and study so I will email the original file if someone wants it. All I ask is to not make any changes to it.

5 Comments
3 Likes
Statistics
Notes
No Downloads
Views
Total views
8,917
On SlideShare
0
From Embeds
0
Number of Embeds
7
Actions
Shares
0
Downloads
86
Comments
5
Likes
3
Embeds 0
No embeds

No notes for slide

Edwardian & WWI Chapter 15

  1. 1. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 Check for updates on the web now! Click anywhere in the slide to view the next item on the slide or to advance to the next slide. Use the buttons below to navigate to another page, close the presentation or to open the help page.
  2. 2. The first decade of the 20th Century was called the Edwardian Period after King Edward VII of England (Reigned 1901 to 1910). Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain CHAPTER FIFT EEN Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist 2
  3. 3. Edwardian styles with an emphasis on an “S” shaped silhouette were ascendant from c. 1900 – 1908. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 3
  4. 4. Undergarments supported this line. • • • • • Drawers Camisoles or Combination Suits Corsets Corset Covers Petticoats CHAPTER FIFT EEN 4
  5. 5. Not only did corsets shape the body, but some corset covers with attached ruffles provided the desired full-bosomed effect. Visit the “Twentieth Century Silhouette and Support” virtual exhibit at the Met CHAPTER FIFT EEN 5
  6. 6. The Gibson Girl, created by Charles Dana Gibson, personified the ideal of young feminine beauty. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 6
  7. 7. The white cotton or linen dress, ornamented with tucks, ruffles, and lace, resembled the frilly lingerie of the period and was called a “Lingerie Dress.” CHAPTER FIFT EEN 7
  8. 8. Characteristic features of garments included: • A high, boned collar • Sleeves often softly gathered to a wristband, called bishop sleeves • Narrow waist, with a decorative belt • A full bosom CHAPTER FIFT EEN 8
  9. 9. These same elements were evident in the popular shirtwaists and skirts of the period. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 9
  10. 10. By 1908 the line started to change. New features included and elevated waistline or Empire style revival and the Hobble skirt 1908 – 1914. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 10
  11. 11. The shape of undergarments echoed the new line. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 11
  12. 12. X Oriental influences were evident in some clothing. Click image to Enlarge CHAPTER FIFT EEN 12
  13. 13. Fashion Designer Paul Poiret, credited with making narrow “Hobble” skirts popular, was a major influence on fashion. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 13
  14. 14. Another important designer of the period was Fortuny who was know for pleated “Delphos” dresses and handsome fabrics. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 14
  15. 15. Elements of fashionable lines included somewhat higher waistlines and more slender skirts. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 15
  16. 16. By this time automobiles were coming into wider use, and men and women dressed in “Dusters,” protective hats, and goggles as they rode in open cars. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 16
  17. 17. World War I began in 1914 and lasted until 1918. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 17
  18. 18. Clothing became more practical. Skirts shortened and widened, clothing became less encumbering as women took on more tasks usually done by men. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 18
  19. 19. Both day time and evening dresses were shorter and fuller. Military influences were evident. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 19
  20. 20. After the war styles changed again, taking on more slender lines that served as a transition into the next decade. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 20
  21. 21. Bathing dress continued to become less encumbering. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 21
  22. 22. Throughout this period women worked actively to gain the right to vote. By 1920 women in the United States had been granted the vote. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a compatible version for your system. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 22 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  23. 23. Changes in styles for men were less frequent and less dramatic than for women. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 23
  24. 24. Union or one-piece undergarments or drawers and undershirts were worn. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 24
  25. 25. For a man’s suit, the elements continued to be a shirt, worn with a necktie, a vest, jacket, and trousers. Sack suite jackets predominated. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 25
  26. 26. Outdoor working men wore warm wool jackets and businessmen wore tailored overcoats, such as the Chesterfield. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 26
  27. 27. As men engaged in active sports, they wore garments appropriate for each sport. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 27
  28. 28. Clothing worn by soldiers during World War I made its way into civilian life after the war. • Sweaters • Trench coats • Wrist Watches CHAPTER FIFT EEN 28
  29. 29. Small Boys were less likely to wear skirts after 1910, and instead wore shorts, knickers, or trousers. CHAPTER FIFT EEN 29
  30. 30. Children’s clothing became more comfortable and less restrictive, although elements similar to clothing of adults can be identified. Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, 1905. Click on the movie to pause, click again to resume. If you experience problems viewing this film, go to the McAllen children, March 1912. Library of Congress American Memory Page to download a compatible version for your system. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 30 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  31. 31. For Further Study Museum And Collection Web Sites With Photographs Of Period Clothing Texas Fashion Collection http://web2.unt.edu/tfc_test/main/Index.htm Bata Shoe Museum http://www.batashoemuseum.ca/collectindex.html Bath Museum. Interesting feature of “the dress of the year.” http://www.museumofcostume.co.uk Pictures from Beverly Berks Couture Collection which has extensive collection of images of garments and accessories. http://www.camrax.com Philadelphia Museum www.philamuseum.org Metropolitan Museum of Art: Costume Institute found at www.metmuseum.org/works_of_art/collection.asp Cornell University Costume Collection http://char.txa.cornell.edu/treasures/index.html Drexel University Costume Gallery http://digimuse.cis.drexel.edu/home.html Fashion Designers http://www.fortuny.com/Home.html http://www.designerhistory.com/historyofashion/poiret.html http://www.gbacg.org/Articles/dressmakers.pdf Books With Drawings Showing Construction Of Historic Clothing Arnold, J. 1977. Patterns of Fashion. Vol. 2: 1860-1940. New York: Drama Book Specialists. Bradfield, N. 1997. Costume in Detail. New York: Costume and Fashion Press. CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 31 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  32. 32. Image Credits Edward VII - Photo at Tree Planting, courtesy Victoria and Albert Museum, London. Alexandra, consort of Edward VII, King of Great Britain, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59506 (b&w film copy neg.)]. Edward VII, King - A Royal Automobilist, Library of Congress, Prints and Photographs Division [LC-USZ62-59503 (b&w film copy neg.)]. Edwardian Style Dress, from the authors’ slide collection. Edwardian Drawers, http://www.knowlesville.com/matt/vintage_fashion/images/1915-drawers-1.jpg. Edwardian Undergarments, New York Public Library Digital Image Collection #828275. Edwardian Petticoat, http://www.vintagemartini.com/clothing/edwardian/pages/2387.html. 1905 White Cotton Sunburst Cutwork Camibloomers, http://www.antiquedress.com/item2153.htm. Camille Clifford in Corset, http://www.geocities.com/ther_over/clifford.html. WB Erect Form Corset Add, http://www.adclassix.com/images02erectformcorsets.jpg. Ruffled Corset, from the authors’ collection. Article on the Gibson Girl, from the author’s collection. High School Graduate Picture 1904 Girl in Lingerie Dress, Photograph courtesy, Melissa Clark. April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 557 Tea Gown c. 1905 - Front and Back, http://www.antique-fashion.com/2468a.jpg, courtesy Karen Augusta Golfers Mrs. J. S. Sheehan, Grace Anthony, and Nellie Anthony standing in the shade of a structure on an unidentified golf course, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0509/s050954.jpg, SDN-050954, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society. April 1905 Fashion Plate from The Delineator Magazine, April 1905, pg 573 Women in Empire Revival and Hobble Skirts, from the authors’ collection. Royal Worcester Kidfitting Corsets advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg. xv The Original Brassiere - the "Bien Jolie" advertisement, The Ladies' Field Magazine, November 23, 1912, pg xv CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 32 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  33. 33. Image Credits Lucile Avant Garde Vivid Voided Velvet Evening Gown, ttp://www.doylenewyork.com/pr/couture/04CT02/images/3393_Lucile.jpg Advertisement for Silk Kimonos, New York Times, April 25, 1915, Library of Congress, Serials and Government Publications Division, Washington, D.C., http://hdl.loc.gov/loc.gdc/sgpnyt.19150425 Lassitude: dinner gown by Paul Poiret, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 2, Dover Publications Goodness, How Cold It Is, winter coat by Paul Poriet, French Fashion Plates in Full Color from the Gazette du Bon Ton (1912-1925), page 16, Dover Publications Fortuny Evening Gown "Delphos", http://www.mkg-hamburg.de/english/Inhalt/samml/tex2.htm Multiple images from authors’ collections Motorist, Mrs. F. W. Hedgeland, driving a car with two women in the backseat], http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/s0033/s003345.jpg, SDN-003345, Chicago Daily News negatives collection, Chicago Historical Society." Various soldier Images from Prudential Army-Navy Booklet, http://freepages.military.rootsweb.com/~worldwarone/WWI/PrudentialArmy-NavyBooklet/ Women's Suits of 1915, (French Fashion Magazine, L’Art de la Mode, 1915) Women in World War I Era Dresses, from the authors’ collection. Woman in Dress from Magazine Ad 1918, from the authors’ collection. Crowd posed on and in front of the Steel Pier, Atlantic City, New Jersey, Library of Congress, [LC-USZ62-100234 (b&w film copy neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/cph/3c00000/3c00000/3c00200/3c00234v.jpg Woman and child in bathing dress, from the authors’ collection. Silent movie, Women suffragettes visit TR at Sagamore [1917] / Hearst-Pathe News, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4168.mpg Hart, Schaffner and Marx advertisement, from the authors’ collection. Hanes Union Suit Ad 1918, Fairchild Archives. Group D class, Illinois College of Photography, Effingham, Illinois, January 25, 1911, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/award/ndfa/ndfahult/b400/b415r.jpg CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 33 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.
  34. 34. Image Credits F. Lowden, in topcoat, holding hat, Library of Congress, [LC-DIG-ggbain-03636 (digital file from original neg.)], http://memory.loc.gov/service/pnp/ggbain/03600/03636r.jpg Yale Football Team 1908, Library of Congress Children trying on new shoes on shoe day, Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/ndlpcoop/ichicdn/n0028/n002805.jpg McAllen children, March 1912, http://runyon.lib.utexas.edu/n2r?urn:utlol:runyon.05042.jpg, The Center for American History and General Libraries, University of Texas at Austin Source collection, Robert Runyon Photograph Collection" Silent movie, TR calls on neighbors at Christmas, 1917 / [Production company unknown], Library of Congress, http://memory.loc.gov/mbrs/trmp/4101.mpg CHAPTER FIFTEEN THE EDWARDIAN PERIOD AND WORLD WAR I 1900 - 1920 34 © 2006 Fairchild Publications, Inc.

×