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Getting more out of textiles – challenges and
opportunities
Danmarks Råstof
Dialogue Workshop
20. maj 2014
David Watson, Senior
Consultant
Why textiles?
 4th
most impacting consumption cluster
 Consumption is growing and quality reducing
 Impacts are happening far from Denmark
But on the positive side
 Reuse/recycling in DK can offset production impacts in Asia
 Already healthy reuse market
 Textiles /fashion industry is highly innovative
2
What happens to used textiles today?
 89 000 tons put on market (16 kg/cap)
 41 000 tons collected by charities/others
 12 000 tons reused in Denmark & 23 000 tons exported for
reuse/recycling
 All collected reusable textiles are resold – thriving market
BUT
 24 000 tons end in mixed waste for incineration
 A significant part of this potentially reusable
 18 000 tons missing - accumulated in wardrobes/lofts?
 Most non-reusables are incinerated/downcycled – no market
LOST RESOURCES!
Principles for improvement
Textiles follow the waste heirarchy –
Extending product life is better than recycling
Recycling is better than downcycling/incineration
Principles for improvement
1. Increase the active lifetime of products
Not in useIn use
Functional lifetime
End of life
One user
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use In use
Many
users
Established/emerging models
 Resell of used own-brand - Filippa K
 Resell by charity – Red Cross, Kirkens Korshær
 Luxury second hand - Second, O.S.V.
 Exchange between consumers – online, flea- & swapmarkets
 Leasing of own brand - MUD, Beibamboo
 Clothing libraries – Chare, ReSecond
 Shared wardrobes - Share Your Closet
 Repair shops
Local job
creation!!
Challenges to models
• Lack of quality of products
• Unfavourable price differential – high local wages, low price of
new
Principles for improvement
2. Increase the durability/quality of products
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use
Functional lifetime
End of life
In use In use In use In use
Principles for improvement
3. Closed-loop recycling at end of functional life
Functional lifetime
Incineration/
downcycling
In use In use In use In use
Mechanical recycling
CollectionFeed into
new textile
products
Chemical recycling
Chicken and egg problem
10
No seperate
collection
of non-reusable
textiles
Lack of technology
for recycling
mixed fibres
Solutions?
11
 Mandatory/voluntary EPR
 Support to new business models
 Policy/instruments to drive up quality
 R&D and investment in recycling technology
Thank you
dawat@etc.mim.dk
Quality and quantity
What’s happening?
 Resource Strategy Part 2
 Idea Catalogue for Miljøstyrelsen
 Nordic Council of Ministers – 4 current
projects
Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options
16
Lack of quality of products
1.Financial assistance and requirement for sustainable design course in
design schools
2.Durability labelling/criteria
3.Stronger implementation of Product Guarantee Directive
Unfavourable price differences – high wages, low
price of new
4.VAT reduction/removal for repair, reuse & leasing
5.Prioritisation in funding pools for start-ups
6.Square metre scheme – support to secondhand in city centres
7.Unemployment subsidies earmarked for green business
8.Raw material fee/tax
Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options
17
Consumer/producer unawareness and inertia
9.Knowledge hubs and advice bureaus for start-ups
10.Nordic awards for new business models
Next stage – evaluation of PPs
18
Focus on:
Highlighting critical design elements of policy
Identifying risk factors
Identifying synergies within/between policy packages
Danish flow of textiles
Udvikling i danskernes forbrug af beklædning
20
Eksport af brugte tekstiler
21
22
23
FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR POLYESTER. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING
AF GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI1.
Sammenligning af ni scenarier -
polyester
Source: CRI and Force
Technology, MST (forthcoming)
24
Sammenligning af ni scenarier -
bomuld
Source: CRI and Force
Technology, MST (forthcoming)
FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR BOMULD. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF
GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI.
Producentansvar i Frankrig
 Lovkrav siden 2006
 Omfatter tøj, linned og sko
 Ét kollektivt system: Eco TLC (omfatter 93 % af industrien)
 Ca. 25 % indsamles. Målet er 50 %.
 60-65 % af det indsamlede genbruges.
 Bidrag går til bl.a. sortering, kommunikation, evaluering
og kortlægning
 Fremtiden: uddannelse af designere
25
Nye forretningsmodeller
1. Videresalg af brugte tekstiler
2. Lån og leje af tekstiler
3. Levetidsforlængelse af tekstiler
4. Re-design
3. Lang levetid
 Reparation og skrædderservice
 Undervisning i reparation - Green Eileen,
danske biblioteker
 Tekstilprodukter af bedre kvalitet
4. Re-design
 Re-design af gamle kollektioner – Top Shop
 Re-design af brugte tekstiler –
Re:Something, Wardrobe surgery
Generelle tendenser
 Masser af gode forretningsmodeller, men kan de skaleres
op? Og skal de skaleres op?
 Større miljømæssige gevinster ved genbrug end ved
genanvendelse. MEN usikkerhed om den såkaldte
”erstatnings effekt”.
 Forbrugernes reaktion er altafgørende – men hvordan?
 Bedre kvalitet er vigtig – men hvordan?
 Positive forventninger til jobskabelse i Norden (formentlig
på bekostning af jobs i Asien)
29
Danske muligheder… lige nu
 (Nordisk samarbejde om) øget indsamling –
hvad er ”resten”?
 Fokus på offentlige udbud og den private
sektor
 Fokus på udbredelse af nye
forretningsmodeller
 Fokus på forbrugeradfærd
30
Min præsentation
 Hvorfor tekstiler?
 Det danske flow af tekstiler
 Hvad sker der lige nu?
- Producentansvar i Frankrig
- Nye forretningsmodeller
 Danske muligheder…
31
Indenlandsk forbrug af tekstiler
32
Gruppe
Forsyning =
Import +
indenlandsk
produktion -
eksport
(kg/capita)
Store beklædningsstykker (rober, frakker,
jakker og regntøj)
1,1
Bukser 3,0
Jakker 0,1
Kjoler og nederdele 0,8
Jakkesæt 0,3
Trøjer og bluser 1,1
Undertøj inklusive sokker og nattøj 1,4
T-shirts 1,9
Sweaters 1,2
Baby tøj 0,4
Trænings- og badetøj 0,7
Handsker, hatte, tørklæder mm. 0,4
Tæpper (ej til gulve), plaider o. lign 0,2
Sengetæpper 0,9
Duge, gardiner og sengetæpper 1,8
Håndklæder 0,6
Genbrugstøj og klude -6,2
Total (inklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 9,8
Total (eksklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 16,0
Indsamlede mængder
33
Number of
shops
Collection Reuse Export Incineration
Trasborg - 7.000 - 4.200 2.800
Røde Kors 200 6.000 600 4.800 600
Frelsens Hær 20 7.500 750 6.000 750
UFF - 1.200 - 1.080 120
Kirkens Korshær 240 5.000 4.500 0 500
Folkekirkens Nødhjælp 123 500 250 220 30
Danmission 85 1.000 200 700 100
Others* 450 12.000 4.700 6.100 1.200
Consumer to consumer - - 1.500 - -
Total (roundet) 1.030 40.000 12.000 23.000 6.000

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Oplæg om Tekstibranchen af David Watson, CRI, Kolding, 20. maj 2014

  • 1. Getting more out of textiles – challenges and opportunities Danmarks Råstof Dialogue Workshop 20. maj 2014 David Watson, Senior Consultant
  • 2. Why textiles?  4th most impacting consumption cluster  Consumption is growing and quality reducing  Impacts are happening far from Denmark But on the positive side  Reuse/recycling in DK can offset production impacts in Asia  Already healthy reuse market  Textiles /fashion industry is highly innovative 2
  • 3. What happens to used textiles today?  89 000 tons put on market (16 kg/cap)  41 000 tons collected by charities/others  12 000 tons reused in Denmark & 23 000 tons exported for reuse/recycling  All collected reusable textiles are resold – thriving market BUT  24 000 tons end in mixed waste for incineration  A significant part of this potentially reusable  18 000 tons missing - accumulated in wardrobes/lofts?  Most non-reusables are incinerated/downcycled – no market LOST RESOURCES!
  • 4. Principles for improvement Textiles follow the waste heirarchy – Extending product life is better than recycling Recycling is better than downcycling/incineration
  • 5. Principles for improvement 1. Increase the active lifetime of products Not in useIn use Functional lifetime End of life One user Functional lifetime End of life In use In use In use Many users
  • 6. Established/emerging models  Resell of used own-brand - Filippa K  Resell by charity – Red Cross, Kirkens Korshær  Luxury second hand - Second, O.S.V.  Exchange between consumers – online, flea- & swapmarkets  Leasing of own brand - MUD, Beibamboo  Clothing libraries – Chare, ReSecond  Shared wardrobes - Share Your Closet  Repair shops Local job creation!!
  • 7. Challenges to models • Lack of quality of products • Unfavourable price differential – high local wages, low price of new
  • 8. Principles for improvement 2. Increase the durability/quality of products Functional lifetime End of life In use In use Functional lifetime End of life In use In use In use In use
  • 9. Principles for improvement 3. Closed-loop recycling at end of functional life Functional lifetime Incineration/ downcycling In use In use In use In use Mechanical recycling CollectionFeed into new textile products Chemical recycling
  • 10. Chicken and egg problem 10 No seperate collection of non-reusable textiles Lack of technology for recycling mixed fibres
  • 11. Solutions? 11  Mandatory/voluntary EPR  Support to new business models  Policy/instruments to drive up quality  R&D and investment in recycling technology
  • 13.
  • 15. What’s happening?  Resource Strategy Part 2  Idea Catalogue for Miljøstyrelsen  Nordic Council of Ministers – 4 current projects
  • 16. Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options 16 Lack of quality of products 1.Financial assistance and requirement for sustainable design course in design schools 2.Durability labelling/criteria 3.Stronger implementation of Product Guarantee Directive Unfavourable price differences – high wages, low price of new 4.VAT reduction/removal for repair, reuse & leasing 5.Prioritisation in funding pools for start-ups 6.Square metre scheme – support to secondhand in city centres 7.Unemployment subsidies earmarked for green business 8.Raw material fee/tax
  • 17. Policy package 3 - 10 Policy options 17 Consumer/producer unawareness and inertia 9.Knowledge hubs and advice bureaus for start-ups 10.Nordic awards for new business models
  • 18. Next stage – evaluation of PPs 18 Focus on: Highlighting critical design elements of policy Identifying risk factors Identifying synergies within/between policy packages
  • 19. Danish flow of textiles
  • 20. Udvikling i danskernes forbrug af beklædning 20
  • 21. Eksport af brugte tekstiler 21
  • 22. 22
  • 23. 23 FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR POLYESTER. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI1. Sammenligning af ni scenarier - polyester Source: CRI and Force Technology, MST (forthcoming)
  • 24. 24 Sammenligning af ni scenarier - bomuld Source: CRI and Force Technology, MST (forthcoming) FIGUR 1 SAMMENLIGNING AF DE NI SCENARIER FOR BOMULD. TIL VENSTRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF GLOBAL OPVARMNING. TIL HØJRE: SAMMENLIGNING AF PRIMÆR ENERGI.
  • 25. Producentansvar i Frankrig  Lovkrav siden 2006  Omfatter tøj, linned og sko  Ét kollektivt system: Eco TLC (omfatter 93 % af industrien)  Ca. 25 % indsamles. Målet er 50 %.  60-65 % af det indsamlede genbruges.  Bidrag går til bl.a. sortering, kommunikation, evaluering og kortlægning  Fremtiden: uddannelse af designere 25
  • 26. Nye forretningsmodeller 1. Videresalg af brugte tekstiler 2. Lån og leje af tekstiler 3. Levetidsforlængelse af tekstiler 4. Re-design
  • 27. 3. Lang levetid  Reparation og skrædderservice  Undervisning i reparation - Green Eileen, danske biblioteker  Tekstilprodukter af bedre kvalitet
  • 28. 4. Re-design  Re-design af gamle kollektioner – Top Shop  Re-design af brugte tekstiler – Re:Something, Wardrobe surgery
  • 29. Generelle tendenser  Masser af gode forretningsmodeller, men kan de skaleres op? Og skal de skaleres op?  Større miljømæssige gevinster ved genbrug end ved genanvendelse. MEN usikkerhed om den såkaldte ”erstatnings effekt”.  Forbrugernes reaktion er altafgørende – men hvordan?  Bedre kvalitet er vigtig – men hvordan?  Positive forventninger til jobskabelse i Norden (formentlig på bekostning af jobs i Asien) 29
  • 30. Danske muligheder… lige nu  (Nordisk samarbejde om) øget indsamling – hvad er ”resten”?  Fokus på offentlige udbud og den private sektor  Fokus på udbredelse af nye forretningsmodeller  Fokus på forbrugeradfærd 30
  • 31. Min præsentation  Hvorfor tekstiler?  Det danske flow af tekstiler  Hvad sker der lige nu? - Producentansvar i Frankrig - Nye forretningsmodeller  Danske muligheder… 31
  • 32. Indenlandsk forbrug af tekstiler 32 Gruppe Forsyning = Import + indenlandsk produktion - eksport (kg/capita) Store beklædningsstykker (rober, frakker, jakker og regntøj) 1,1 Bukser 3,0 Jakker 0,1 Kjoler og nederdele 0,8 Jakkesæt 0,3 Trøjer og bluser 1,1 Undertøj inklusive sokker og nattøj 1,4 T-shirts 1,9 Sweaters 1,2 Baby tøj 0,4 Trænings- og badetøj 0,7 Handsker, hatte, tørklæder mm. 0,4 Tæpper (ej til gulve), plaider o. lign 0,2 Sengetæpper 0,9 Duge, gardiner og sengetæpper 1,8 Håndklæder 0,6 Genbrugstøj og klude -6,2 Total (inklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 9,8 Total (eksklusive genbrugstøj og klude) 16,0
  • 33. Indsamlede mængder 33 Number of shops Collection Reuse Export Incineration Trasborg - 7.000 - 4.200 2.800 Røde Kors 200 6.000 600 4.800 600 Frelsens Hær 20 7.500 750 6.000 750 UFF - 1.200 - 1.080 120 Kirkens Korshær 240 5.000 4.500 0 500 Folkekirkens Nødhjælp 123 500 250 220 30 Danmission 85 1.000 200 700 100 Others* 450 12.000 4.700 6.100 1.200 Consumer to consumer - - 1.500 - - Total (roundet) 1.030 40.000 12.000 23.000 6.000

Editor's Notes

  1. 1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia 2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because…….. 3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries 4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system. 5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products
  2. 1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia 2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because…….. 3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries 4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system. 5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products
  3. 1st: for example a model based on repair and/or leasing is likely to produce more jobs in Nordic countries close to the customer, and hopefully offset the production of new clothes taking place in Asia 2nd: And here I say ‘should’, because…….. 3rd: A WRAP study found that when you buy a used article of clothing it doesn’t necessarily stop you from buying a new article as well. In fact displacement rates of new purchases were only 28%. This may be because one has a set budget for clothes and used clothes are often cheaper, or because it doesn’t quite fulfill expectations. Can’t necessarily use this result for Nordic countries 4th: this is because feedback effects only operate fully when individual brands take back their own i.e. not much point for a company in a collective system to design for reuse if none of the other comapnies are doing it. But collective systems can be designed with feedback effects – needs careful design of the system. 5th: an example would be activities increasing awareness of the environmental importance of reuse and recycling, or instruments that promote increased quality and durability of products