8. Examine the leaves, stems, and
trunks
◦Starting at the top of the plant,
examine the leaves or needles
for signs of disease. The new
leaves of plants received in the
spring should be free of leaf
spots, powdery mildew or other
infections.
9. If the leaves of deciduous species look bad in the fall, don’t
worry; it’s normal for opportunistic infections such as leaf spots
to appear on aging or withering foliage.
10. The same infections are a
concern in the spring or
early summer, or if they
occur on evergreen
species. With a
magnifying glass or hand
lens turn the leaves over
and examine them for
insects and associated
damage.
11. A few aphids are no big deal and easy to
control but an infestation may be a concern.
12. Examine the roots
For bareroot material,
open a bundle of plants and
look at the roots. Are they firm
and moist, with pale growing
tips?
This is important because
dried-up, mushy, or totally
brown roots are dead, and
those plants probably won’t
survive.
13. Examine the roots
• Extra-long roots should be pruned so the roots fit easily
into the planting hole.
14. Examine the roots
• For container plants, take a
random selection of plants,
invert them, pull off their
pots, and look at the roots.
• Plants that pull out of the
pot leaving a pile of soil
behind have been sold
before they are ready.
15. A fully rooted container plant has white
healthy roots that are consistent throughout the
16. Circling roots must be
straightened and pruned
before planting, otherwise
the plants may never grow
out of the “pot” shape, and
within a few growing seasons
they could die.
However, it’s normal and
acceptable for species that
spread by aggressive root
suckering to have shoots
coming out the holes in the
pot.
17. Examine the roots color and
texture.
Roots that are brown,
dried, slimy, or soft are
healthy.
Some brown roots are
normal for a container
but there must also be live,
growing roots. This step in
inspection is critical: healthy
roots are vital to a plant’s
growth.
18. Inadequate plant inspection can
result in accepting
unsatisfactory plant material,
thereby jeopardizing the success
of your project.
30. ◦There are 17 essential nutrients that all plants need, including carbon,
hydrogen, and oxygen, which plants get from air and water.
◦Nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are needed in larger amounts than
other nutrients; they are considered primary macronutrients.
◦Too much fertilizer is not only a waste of money, but it can damage plants
and harm the environment.
◦With the right amount of nutrients, your garden can thrive and provide
pounds of produce for harvest
31.
32. ◦The fertilizer you choose
should be based primarily
on soil test results and
plant needs, both in
terms of nutrients and
speed of delivery.
◦Other factors to consider
include soil and
environmental health as
well as your budget
33. ◦Many garden fertilizers contain additional
nutrients. Inorganic fertilizers generally list all nutrients on
the label, organic fertilizers often contain a wide array of
plant nutrients and may not list them all.
◦Inorganic fertilizers do not contain carbon and are generally
manufactured, water-soluble products.
◦Organic fertilizers are carbon-based and derived from living
organisms, such as fish emulsion or blood meal. .
34. Urea (common in inorganic fertilizers) is a synthetic organic
compound; it contains carbon, but is manufactured from
inorganic materials and does not qualify for certified organic
production.
39. MULCHING
the act of covering the soil with mulches, such as bark, wood
chips, leaves, and other organic material, in order to preserve
moisture and improve the condition of the soil
