TÀI LIỆU CHUYÊN NGÀNH MAY MẶC
https://tailieumayva.blogspot.com/
Keywords: cách tính bước nhảy size, thông số nhảy size, cách nhảy size quần, phần mềm nhảy size, nhảy mẫu quần âu nam, hướng dẫn nhảy size quần nữ, tài liệu nhảy mẫu, học nhảy size giác sơ đồ, nhảy size tay áo sơ mi nam, nguyên tắc lựa chọn bước nhảy trong xây dựng hệ thống cỡ số, cách nhảy size áo thun, các nguyên tắc lựa chọn bước nhảy, cách nhảy size đầm, nhảy size tay áo sơ mi nam
Sewing Machine Needle A to Z
written by
Md. Masudur Rahman
Department of Textile Engineering
4th Batch
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)
Contents…… . . .
The basic functions of a needle
Needle Parts
Needle Selection
Types of needle
Needle Size / Thickness
Various effects of wrong sewing needle selection in apparel industry has mentioned in the below:
1. When the needle is finer than sewing thread
2. When the thread is finer than needle
3. When the needle is coarser than required fabric
4. When the needle is finer than required fabric
Needle Parts:
1. Butt
The starting part of bottom edge of needle. Helps for easily attaching of needle with the needle bar or clamp
2. Shank
The bottom thicker part of the needle which is tied in the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It may be cylindrical or flat in size. It supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength
3. Shoulder
The intermediate section between the shank and the blade of needle. When the needle penetrate through the fabric to reach its lower position, then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result it reduces the friction between needle & fabrics by producing a wider hole on fabric.
4. Blade
The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material. Blade is gradually tapered to tip
5. Long groove(s)
It is a long and thin groove, presents in one side of the needle blade . During up and down of needle through sewing, the sewing thread take place in this groove and reduce the frictions between fabric, needle and thread. It provides a protective channel and reduce possibility of damaging thread due to frictions.
6. Short groove
It is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread
7. Eye
The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom area. It helps to create loop
8. Scarf (Clearance)
It is a curved slot, a clearance cut in the needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook, or looper to the needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the needle loop by the looper hook.
9. Point
It is the part from needle eye to the tip. The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect
10. Tip
The ending edge pf needle is called tip. It helps to penetrate the needle into the fabric and create hole during sewing.
In the recent context of Bangladesh apparel merchandiser is the best way to build up career. Apparel Merchandising is one of the best profession now a days
TÀI LIỆU CHUYÊN NGÀNH MAY MẶC
https://tailieumayva.blogspot.com/
Keywords: cách tính bước nhảy size, thông số nhảy size, cách nhảy size quần, phần mềm nhảy size, nhảy mẫu quần âu nam, hướng dẫn nhảy size quần nữ, tài liệu nhảy mẫu, học nhảy size giác sơ đồ, nhảy size tay áo sơ mi nam, nguyên tắc lựa chọn bước nhảy trong xây dựng hệ thống cỡ số, cách nhảy size áo thun, các nguyên tắc lựa chọn bước nhảy, cách nhảy size đầm, nhảy size tay áo sơ mi nam
Sewing Machine Needle A to Z
written by
Md. Masudur Rahman
Department of Textile Engineering
4th Batch
National Institute of Textile Engineering and Research (NITER)
Contents…… . . .
The basic functions of a needle
Needle Parts
Needle Selection
Types of needle
Needle Size / Thickness
Various effects of wrong sewing needle selection in apparel industry has mentioned in the below:
1. When the needle is finer than sewing thread
2. When the thread is finer than needle
3. When the needle is coarser than required fabric
4. When the needle is finer than required fabric
Needle Parts:
1. Butt
The starting part of bottom edge of needle. Helps for easily attaching of needle with the needle bar or clamp
2. Shank
The bottom thicker part of the needle which is tied in the needle clamp or the needle set screw. It may be cylindrical or flat in size. It supports the needle as a whole by providing additional strength
3. Shoulder
The intermediate section between the shank and the blade of needle. When the needle penetrate through the fabric to reach its lower position, then the shoulder also penetrates through the fabric. As a result it reduces the friction between needle & fabrics by producing a wider hole on fabric.
4. Blade
The needle portion extends from the shank to the eye. This is subjected to the greatest amount of friction and hence heat when it passes through the material. Blade is gradually tapered to tip
5. Long groove(s)
It is a long and thin groove, presents in one side of the needle blade . During up and down of needle through sewing, the sewing thread take place in this groove and reduce the frictions between fabric, needle and thread. It provides a protective channel and reduce possibility of damaging thread due to frictions.
6. Short groove
It is formed on the other side of long groove, towards the shuttle, hook, or looper and it assists in throwing the loop of needle thread
7. Eye
The eye of the needle is present in the bottom end of the blade. Needle thread allowed through this eye is taken to the bottom area. It helps to create loop
8. Scarf (Clearance)
It is a curved slot, a clearance cut in the needle blade just above the eye to permit a closer setting of the shuttle, hook, or looper to the needle. As a result, it is easy to catch the needle loop by the looper hook.
9. Point
It is the part from needle eye to the tip. The point of the needle is shaped to provide the most suitable penetration of the material being sewn according to its nature and the desired stitch effect
10. Tip
The ending edge pf needle is called tip. It helps to penetrate the needle into the fabric and create hole during sewing.
In the recent context of Bangladesh apparel merchandiser is the best way to build up career. Apparel Merchandising is one of the best profession now a days
Să ne împrietenim cu lectura Ermurachi Nina/ Pruncia Monica
Indicatii pentru luarea masurilor
1. Indicatii pentru luarea masurilor
Masurile sa iau peste lenjeria de corp, preferabil ajutata de o alta
persoana. Fixati o banda rigida in talie. Stati dreapta, dar relaxata.
Comparati valorile masurate cu cele din tabelul cu masuri. Alegeti
masura care se apropie cel mai mult de valorile masurate. Cele mai
importante sunt:
circumferinta bustului, pentru bluze, rochii, jachete, mantouri;
circumferinta soldului, pentru fuste si pantaloni.
Accesati meniul pentru ilustratii si cum trebuie procedat.
Circumferinta bustului: banda se petrece in fata peste
partea cea mai proeminenta a bustului, trece sub brat si
urca usor la spate.
Circumferinta gatului: se masoara la baza gatului,
deasupra claviculei.
Circumferinta taliei: banda se aseaza pe cat posibil
orizontal, in partea cea mai ingusta a taliei si se fixeaza.
Circumferinta soldurilor: banda se petrece orizontal
peste partea cea mai lata a soldurilor si se fixeaza.
Lungimea pana la talie: se ia distanta de la umar, de
langa gat, peste piept, pana la banda din talie.
Lungimea superioara a bustului: se masoara ca si
lungimea pana la talie, dar pana la partea cea mai
proeminenta a bustului.
2. Lungimea spatelui: se masoara de la ultima vertebra a
gatului, de-a lungul mijlocului spatelui, pana sub banda din
talie.
Latimea spatelui: se masoara orizontal, de la o
incheietura a bratului la cealalta.
Important: o tinuta dreapta.
Latimea umarului: de la baza gatului la incheietura
umarului.
Grosimea bratului: se masoara partea cea mai groasa a
bratului.
Lungimea bratului: de la incheietura umarului, peste
cotul indoit, la incheietura mainii.
Pentru înălţime de 168cm.
UM
M Ă S U R I L E
36 38 40 42 44 46 48 50 52 54
Circumferinţă
bust
cm 80 84 88 92 96 100 104 110 116 122
Circumferinţă
talie
cm 62 66 70 74 78 82 86 92 98 104
Circumferinţă
şold
cm 86 90 94 98 102 106 110 116 122 128
Lungime faţă cm 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52
Lungime sup.
bust
cm 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34
Lungime spate cm 41 41 42 42 43 43 44 44 45 45
3. Lăţime spate cm 33.5 34.5 35.5 36.5 37,5 38,5 39.5 41 42.5 44
Lungime umăr cm 12 12 12 13 13 13 13 14 14 14
Lungime mânecă cm 59 59 60 60 61 61 61 61 62 62
Grosime braţ cm 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 34 36 38
Circumferinţă gât cm 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43
Pentru ca te afli pe un blog cu modele crosetate, ceea ce implica “lucrate manual”,
daca ai mai si citit rubrica “Informatii utile”, deja stii ca exista posibilitatea ca noi sa
facem un model special pentru tine, dupa masurile tale.
Ei bine, acest lucru este posibil doar cu ajutorul tau. Si pentru ca sunt persoane care
nu au fost niciodata la croitorie sau nu si-au facut niciodata ceva pe comanda, te
invatam noi cum sa iti iei singura masurile. Pentru ca nimeni nu se naste invatat.
Iata care sunt masuratorile de baza.
A. Bustul -se masoara sub brat, in jurul partii celei mai
proeminente.
B. Talia – se masoara deasupra buricului, unde circumferinta este cea mai mica ( in
“scobitura” mijlocului”)
C. Soldurile – se masoara la punctul cel mai proeminent al feselor.
D. Umerii – se masoara pe spate din umar in umar, in linie dreapta (fara sa picati usor
pe linia mainii; este un osisor acolo, unde se imbina bratul cu umarul )
E. Circumferinta bratului – se masoara sub brat, acolo unde bratul este mai gros,
astfel incat cercul facut de centimetru sa fie paralel cu solul
F. Lungimea manecii – se masoara lungimea dorita a manecii din umar, peste cot, cu
cotul un pic indoit, si pana unde vrei tu sa iti ajunga maneca.
4. Daca se pune problema incadrarii in masurile standard, in general, lucurile stau cam
asa:
daca porti:
- 34 – inseamna ca te incadrezi la XS
- 36 – inseamna ca te incadrezi la S
- 38-40 – inseamna ca te incadrezi la M
- 40-42 – inseamna ca te incadrezi la L
- 44-46 – inseamna ca ca te incadezi la XL
Noi nu recomandam, insa, ghidarea exacta dupa aceste masuri, pentru ca stii bine ca
nu se potrivesc intotdeauna. De exemplu, daca tu ai masuri de S, ca asa ai vazut tu ca
scria pe o bluza elastica, insa ai sanii un pic mai mari, ai fi surprinsa sa descoperi ca
un sacou 36 nu iti vine.
Cele mai relevante sunt masurile exacte, conform masuratorilor care se fac asa cum
am aratat mai sus.
In functie de modelul crosetat, uneori mai sunt necesare masuratori particulare ( de
exemplu, decupajul unui decolteu).
Apoi, trebuie stiut ca majoritatea modelelor crosetate sunt elastice. Adica te poti gandi
ca daca vrei sa iti vina stramt pe mana, poti sa mai furi 1 -1.5 cm din rezultatul care ti-
a dat tie dupa ce te-ai masurat corect.