Tijdens het fashion Lab productie kon je ontdekken hoe je van een eerste ontwerp naar een afgewerkt product kan gaan.

1. FASHION LAB PRODUCTIE

2. 13.00: Productie in al zijn facetten, door Ann Collier, IVOC & Jo van
Landeghem, Creamoda
14.00: Getuigenis, tips & tricks door Samira Lafkioui, productiemanager
Raf Simons
14.30: Fabrikant Frederiek Ballière, Balko
15.00: Pauze – Nicole Verhagen, DmeetM
15.20 - 17.20:
• MEET AND GREET met Belgian Designer Partners, in samenwerking
met Creamoda.
• 1-op-1 gesprekken met coaches
AGENDA

3. Jo Vanlandeghem & Ann Collier
Design
<>
Production

4. Production
• Specific
• Technical specifications
• Technical drawing
• The right manufacturer
The Tags
• Fibre names
• Care labels

5. GOOD AGREEMENTS MAKE
GOOD PARTNERSHIPS

6. The world of the designer
Production: specific

7. The world of the fashion industry
Production: specific

8. The methodology
• Question:
• Do we leave everything to the good care of the
manufacturer ?
• Or do we take the lead ?
• Options:
A. I design the model myself and leave the rest to the
manufacturer
B. I design, make the first pattern and leave the rest to
the manufacturer
C. I design, make the first pattern, make the prototype
and leave the rest to the manufacturer
D. I buy from the manufacturers collection or I choose
something exclusive
Production: specific

9. From idea to product
• The creative idea / the first sketch
• The development of the first pattern
• The first prototype
• The realization of the collection samples
• The size set samples
• The gold seal sample or reference sample for production
• Bulk production
Production: specific

10. Technical specifications
• Model/style
• BOM
• Technical drawing
• Technical instructions
• Measurements
Technical specifications

11. Technical specifications: Style

12. Technical specifications: Style/BOM

13. Technical specifications: BOM

14. MATERIAL CARD
FABRICS
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER
SEE DETAILS
MATERIAL N°
QUT WHERE
COLOUR
COMBO 1
COLOUR
COMBO 2
COLOUR
COMBO 3
COLOUR
COMBO 4
COLOUR
COMBO 5
SHELL 1 100% polyamide ribstop - acryliccoating 600mm Clear transparant coating Body, sleeves, pocketpintucks, pocketentries, outercollar,
galoon interiorcollar, sleevepocket, inside pocket, waistgalloon
on lining
Orange
171462 TPX
SHELL 2 100% polyester microfibre 2 layers Contrast galoon exterior collar, interior collar, half moon on
lining
Grey
171501 TPX
SHELL 3 Nylon 190T coated 600mm Clear transparant coating Hood Grey
171501 TPX
LINING 1 Mesh 100% polyester Body lining Grey
171501 TPX
LINING 2 Nylon 190T Sleeves lining, pocketparts inset pockets, lining of exterior
collar, intermediate collar
Grey
171501 TPX
ACCESSORIES
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER
SEE DETAILS
MATERIAL N°
QUT WHERE
COLOUR
COMBO 1
COLOUR
COMBO 2
COLOUR
COMBO 3
COLOUR
COMBO 4
COLOUR
COMBO 5
ZIPPER 1 Zipper Vislon 9mm 2-way open end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC - grey
teeth
1 Centre front zipper Orange / grey teeth /
grey sliders
ZIPPER 2 Zipper Vislon 6mm closed end Completelyplastic - ALSO SLIDER PLASTIC 2 2 bottom pockets Orange
ZIPPER PULLER 1 Ribbon 10mm 4x12cm zipperslider Orange
DRAWCORD 1 Elastic drawcord Hem hood Orange
STOPPER 1 Cordstopper Drawcord hood Grey
PIPING Reflectivepiping Chestseam, horizontal backseam, sleeves insets
VELCRO 1 Velcro loop circle diameter 7cm left upperarm Orange
VELCRO 2 Velcro 20mm Sleeves narrowing Orange
VELCRO 3 Velcro 20mm Collar + hood Grey
ELASTIC Elastic 20mm Bottomparthem sleeves
LABELLING
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER
SEE DETAILS
MATERIAL N°
QUT WHERE
COLOUR
COMBO 1
COLOUR
COMBO 2
COLOUR
COMBO 3
COLOUR
COMBO 4
COLOUR
COMBO 5
PRINTED LABEL On satin white polyester : print SM See tabsheet details materials
SIZE LABEL Sizelabel in the middle of the neck See tabsheet details materials
CARE LABEL Woven care label See tabsheet details materials 1 In the left sideseam
HANGTAG 1 Hang tag SM See tabsheet details materials
EMBROIDERY 1 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials In the middle of the back
EMBROIDERY 2 LES SAUVETEURS EN MER SNSM See tabsheet details materials On right upperarm
EMBROIDERY 3 Embroideredbadge See tabsheet details materials On left chest
PACKING
DESCRIPTION COMMENTS REF SUPPLIER
SEE DETAILS
MATERIAL N°
QUT WHERE
COLOUR
COMBO 1
COLOUR
COMBO 2
COLOUR
COMBO 3
COLOUR
COMBO 4
COLOUR
COMBO 5
POLYBAG
MINIGRIP
SILKPAPER
STICKER
STICKER BOX
Technical specifications: BOM

16. Technical drawing

17. Technical instructions

18. Technical instructions

19. Technical instructions

20. Technical instructions

21. Technical instructions

22. Stitch types ISO 4915 (international standard)
Class 100 : chain stitches
Class 200: hand stitches
Class 300: Lockstitches
Class 400: Multi-thread chain stitches
Class 500: Overedge chain stiches
Class 600: Covering chain stitches

23. Seam types ISO 4916 (international standard)
SS - Stapelnaad (Superimposed Seam)
LS - Overlapnaad (Lapped Seam)
BS - Gebonden naad (Bounded Seam)
FS - Platte naad (Flat Seam)

24. Multi-thread chain stitches
Lapseam/felled seam

27. simplicitynewlook.com
Body measurements
1 Total length
2 chest width = bust
4 Waist
5 Waist height
6 Hip
7 neck – shoulder - armlength

28. Hogent - smartfit

29. The right manufacturer
• Good to know
• Start prospecting before the season starts - “first come,
first served”
The time factor is utterly important.
Be on time, respecting the right time zone
Summer collection (November until February)
Winter collection (June until August)
• Select a supplier according to your product needs eg.
Tricot machinery tricot
• Better a few models / week than all at once

30. The right manufacturer
• Creamoda & it’s members
• Belgian Designer Partners
Manufacturers are willing to work on the
realization of the collection(s) of starters and
to do an additional effort
“Meet & Greet” events
• Creamoda website contains a substantial list of Belgian
manufacturers
• Advantages of production with a Belgian partner:
Coaching & advise
Visit, control & corrections
Small orders

31. The right manufacturer
• Questions to ask…
• Working with starters ? Product types ?
• Volume big or small orders ? Quality level ? Price level ?
Are modifications possible ? Capacity booking ?
Timing ?
• Terms of delivery ? Payment terms ?
Social compliance ?
• Product Safety ? Product testing ?
• Sustainable manufacturing ?

32. The right manufacturer
Price & conscious choice
Basic Model: if you have a good basic fit re-use it . With some minor
modifications = can be less expensive than making a completely new one.
Careful with Fabric Consumption (draperies…)
Manual finishing or machine finishing.
Bio / Eco materials and finishing
MOQ Minimum order quantities

33. Remember
•A good preparation makes half of the work
•A clear communication = crucial ( Technical file )
•A clear quality sketch sometimes says more than words
•Provide a sufficient amount of fabrics and additionals ( buttons can get
broken in the factory…)
•Think about your labels, composition, brand, size, care instructions

34. THE TAGS
• Fibre composition
• Care instructions

35. Fibre composition

36. EU-Regulation No 1007/2011
from 27/09/2011
• Prescribes the way the fibre composition of products needs to be indicated
by means of a label/marking in order to protect the needs of the customer
• Textile products may only placed on the EU market when they comply with
the directives of that regulation
• The full name needs to be used: cotton, acrylic, polyester, …
• http://eur-lex.europa.eu/LexUriServ/LexUriServ.do?uri=
OJ:L:2011:272:0001:0064:EN:PDF

37. EU-Regulation No 1007/2011
from 27/09/2011
• Article 12: extra notice “contains non-textile parts of animal origin”
Percentage does not matter and the animal species does not need to be
specified
IMPORTANT: even a leather label on a textile product needs to be
mentioned!

38. Fibre composition
• Legally obliged in all European countries for all textile products
• Textile product = a product min. 80% by weight made out of
textile fibres
• Needs to be written in the national language
• Abbreviations are not allowed
• Written in descending order eg. 50% cotton 40% wool 10% nylon

39. Fibre names
• Fibre names are determined by law only
• Official fibre name (generic name) = NOT a trademark or
marketing name
• Not related to the manufacturer
Eg. Coolmax, Lycra, Tervira, Tencel, Danufil...are not generic
fibre names
• In principle there is only 1 generic name
There is 1 exception: polyamide and nylon are synonyms
Flax and Linen can both be used

40. The Care label according ISO 3758:2005

41. The Care label
• The care label is not abligated by law in the EU member states however:
Obligated use of symbols in Austria
Obligated use of symbols or text in Italy
• The symbols indicate maximum resistance to care and laundring
• The pictograms are the property of GINETEX. ETITEX owns the rights for
Belgium and Luxemburg

42. The Care label
• Use the symbols with care
• Respect the sequence of the symbols
• When using the symbols, you need to pay a fee to Etitex
http://www.etitex.be
• Continuous text = allowed but needs to be written in the national
language

43. CONTRACTUAL AGREEMENTS
BETWEEN DESIGNER
& MANUFACTURER

44. (Standard) contract
Framework agreement
• General agreement with rights and obligations
• Few changes needed
Individual contract
• Further comments and specifications on the framework
agreement
• Deviations from the framework agreement
• A lot of modifications can be made
• Regular renewal/modification is possible, but never without
signing the framework agreement first

45. The framework agreement
• Definitions
• Subject
• Price & payment
• Rights and obligations of both parties
• (Intellectual) property
• Data confidentiality
• Materials, conformity of the finishing process and
defaults
• Delays for finishing and delivery
• Duration and resiliation of the contract
• Legislation applicable and appropriate court

46. The individual contract
For 1 season (1 collection)
One sheet per model
• Sketch + details of the sketch
Description of the confection assignment
• Patterns, prototype, purchase of the garments,
preparation of the production and the
production itself
• Prices, terms and places of delivery
• Other agreements
Detailed description of the production assignment
• Sizes and numbers per size (models/finishings)

47. Availability of the contract
In Dutch / French / English
On request available at :
Creamoda
Tailor-made modifications are possible for
members of the federation

48. Thank you!
a.collier@ivoc.be
vanlandeghem@creamoda.be

49. PRODUCTIE
Lafkioui Samira

50. PRODUCTIE MANAGER
1. Planning en deadlines van productie bepalen.
2. Prijzen en kwaliteit garanderen.
3. Verantwoordelijk vanaf levering van de stoffen & trims tot levering
van het afgewerkt kledingstuk.
4. Voortdurend op zoek naar nieuwe fabrikanten en werkmethodes
om efficienter en beter resultaten te boeken.
5. De relaties met de producenten onderhouden.

51. 1. PLANNING EN DEADLINES VAN PRODUCTIE BEPALEN

52. TIJDSLIJN
GRONDSTOFFEN: - VAN AANKOOP TOT PRODUCENT: 12-16 WEKEN
PRODUCTIE: - VAN LANCEREN TOT WAREHOUSE: 16-26 WEKEN
- VAN LEVERING GRONDSTOF TOT WAREHOUSE: 10-16 WEKEN

53. 2. PRIJZEN EN VOORBEREIDEN VAN NIEUW PRODUCTIESEIZOEN.

54. CODE MAKEN
SEIZOEN JAAR MODEL HOOFDSTOF KLEUR
1 = ZOMER
2 = WINTER
16 100, 101, 102…
= HEMDEN
200, 201, 202, …
= BROEKEN
...
NAAM GEVEN WHITE
BLACK
RED
…
SS
AW
2016 PALM, PECAN, …
= PANTS
TUPELO, TANOAK,..
= T-SHIRTS
….
1000, 1001, 1002, ..
= WOL
2000, 2001, 2002, ..
= KATOEN
…
001-010 = WITTE KL.
011-019 = BLAUWE
020-029 = GROEN
…
S
W
016 001-019 = KATOEN
020-039 = WOL
…
VOORBEELD: 1-16-100-DAZY-WHITE / SS2016-PALM-1000-019 / S16-200-20001-GROEN

55. HOE MAKEN WE ONZE PRIJS
• Grondstoffen = (aankoopprijs * verbruik) + transportkost van de goederen.
• DIENSTEN = gradatie, ontwikkelingskost, print, washing, plissage,…
• Transportkosten, reiskosten en logistiek.
• Commissies.
• Packaging.
• **Maakloon.
= (SUM) KOSTPRIJS
** Maakloon: A) CMT = (CUT & MAKE & TRIM)
B) CM = (CUT & MAKE)

56. KWALITEIT GARANDEREN
Alvorens productie te starten controleren we volgende zaken:
• Pasvorm / maat.
• Afwerking binnen en buiten.
• Hoe wordt het kledingstuk opgestuurd? Hangend? In een doos?
Verder:
• Stoffen op: kleur, was, krimp, opwollen, …
• Prints, borduursels, applicaties, ... Testen op wash, dry clean, ...
Deze info is nodig om te beslissen wat er op het wash&care label komt.

57. PRODUCTIE BON
SEASON : SRING /SUMMER
ARTICLE: 1-17-200-W001-030
DESCRIPTION : CLASSIC PANT
SIZE 44 46 48 50 52 TOTAL
TO PRODUCE 47 55 62 52 34 250
MATERIAL LIST discription dye bath unit needed total needed
1. 1-17-W001-030 Classic wool Red MTR 1,3 325
2. 1-17-L001-099 Pocketing black MTR 0,3 75
3. 1-17-B124-099 Button 24" black PCS 3 750
4. 0-00-LA01-099 Woven Label PCS 1 250
5. 0-00-HA01-099 Hangtag+Buttonbag PCS 1 250
6. 0-00-CL01-099 Clipper PCS 1 250
7. 0-00-PO115-000 Polybag 1,5m PCS 1 250
1-17-W001-030
1-17-L001-099
NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF THE PRODUCER:
FABRIC SWATCH
TECHNICAL DRAWING
PRODUCTION ORDER: 1-17-001 DELIVERY DATE: LEVERING EX FACTORYDATE: DATUM PROD. START
TECHNISCHE FICHE

58. 3. COORDINEREN VAN ZENDING GRONDSTOFFEN NAAR PRODUCENTEN.

59. LEVERANCIERS PAKLIJST TECHNISCHE FICHE

60. VERDEELLIJST PER ARTIKEL OVERZICHT
GRONDSTOFFEN PER
PRODUCENT
GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier:
Ref. supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped
Mopan 1-17-200-W001-030 M 1,3 250 325 …
Van Bockrijk 1-17-602-W001-030 M 2,2 115 253 …
Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-030 M 0,8 76 60,8 …
638,8
GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Supplier:
Ref. supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped
Mopan 1-17-200-W001-045 M 1,3 98 127,4 …
Mopan 1-17-202-W001-045 M 1,22 45 54,9 …
Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-045 M 0,8 30 24 …
206,3
GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-001 White Supplier:
Ref. supplier:
Manufacturer: Article: unit Needed Pieces Total Shipped
Mobecon 1-17-405-W001-001 M 0,8 88 70,4 …
70,4
Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3
Bacci srl.
Bacci srl.
Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8
Bacci srl.
Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #1
DATE:
GRONDSTOF: 1-17-W001-030 Green Supplier:
Ref. supplier:
Article: Color: Supplier: Ref. Supplier unit Total Shipped
1-17-W001-030 Grey Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3 M 325 …
1-17-W001-045 Light Blue Bacci Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #8 M 182 …
1-17-W008-030 Grey Colombo Art. Julia design 9 - col. 04 M 102
1-17-W012-001 Black Puro Art. Baltimor col. 001 M 195
1-17-W024-001 Black Puro Art. Balthazar - design #4 - col. 001 M 120
1-17-V001-001 Black Pasorelli Art. Saglie - col. Nero M 220
1-17-V001-009 Grey Pasorelli Art. Saglia - col. Bianca M 60
1-17-B024-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00099 pcs. 1200
1-17-B032-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00099 pcs. 400
1-17-B038-001 Black Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00099 pcs. 150
1-17-B024-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 24"- 00091 pcs. 1200
1-17-B032-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 32"- 00091 pcs. 400
1-17-B038-008 Grey Union Knopff Art horn 074 - 38"- 00091 pcs. 150
0-00-T001-000 Black label company Art. Hangtag 450*23 - 02 -001 pcs. 450
0-00-CL01-042 Black Mainetti Clipper 052 - black - logo #4 pcs 450
0-00-HO01-000 Mainetti Polybag 0,01 - logo #4 pcs 450
NAME OF COMPANY: NAME OF PRODUCER: MOPAN
LIST OF MATERIAL ISSUE
Bacci srl.
Art. 90895 - design 001 - col. #3

61. 4. SOURCEN VAN NIEUWE FABRIKANTEN.

62. 5. ONDERHOUD VAN GOEDE RELATIES MET FABRIKANTEN.

63. Fashion Production
Fashion Lab, Antwerpen, 8-11-2016
frederiekballiere@balko.be

64. WHO WE ARE
• Family company – 5 generations fashion experience
• Based in Waregem: logistics, QC, styling & patterns
• Short & Long term production facilities
(Fully Owned) factories in Eastern Europe, Tunesia,
Pakistan (JV), Bangladesh (JV) & China
• Focus on (denim & rtd) trousers & outerwear
Technical know how, importance of a perfect fit
• Customers: brands & retailers (Fr/Be/NL/De)
• +- 2 million pces/yr

65. WHAT WE DO
• Customised fashion solutions from a to z:
Styling
Sampling
Sourcing
Fabrics (stocks)
Trims
Make
Packing
QC
Logistics
… but not every customer outsources all of those steps… :

66. HOW TO FIND THE BEST
PRODUCTION SOLUTION??
*STARTING POINT: STYLING
From a (modified) shopping and supplier’s collection
to your own design…
! Anticipate: Talk with your production partner…
… about the technical possibilities or potential practical issues
… about the prices (secure final price!)
… about the right fitting
… about the moq’s (fabrics & accessories)
and have this talk before you start to work out a collection: save a lot
of time & money!

67. *PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS!
1. Sampling
*Patterns by the production company OR by you?
*How many samples? Sms? Prototype? PPS?
*Sample yardage ordered by?
2. Sourcing (fabrics & (packing) accessories)
*Fabrics: proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you? (finished garment vs make)
(Trousers = most of the time different from other items!)
*Accessories (buttons, lining, ..) : proposed & delivered by the supplier OR by you?
(Basics usually by supplier / personalised items by the brand)
*Packing accessories (pricelabels, tags, ..): delivered by the supplier OR by you?
! Chose the right supplier: some suppliers offer full solutions, others only offer the make,
and ask to deliver everything…save money & time…
! Talk with your producer about technical possibilities, practical issues, fitting, prices
(alternatives!)…

68. *PRODUCTION PROCESS: KEY QUESTIONS!
3. Make
*Long term/Short term? Quantities?
Price difference can be huge; quality level can remain!
4. Logistics
*Transportation cost to/from production facilities, transportation cost
from fabrics, import taxes..
* Packing instructions: make it easy on yourself! Flat packed (online!)
or hanging?
* Extra partner for handling & direct deliveries?
Same logic as for the sourcing of fabrics: economy of scale makes a
huge difference!

69. General tips & tricks
• Define your own way of working & then chose the right
production partner…
• Strategy: go for high end exclusivity or go for volume…
• Outsourcing? Can be the answer for a startup, but also
for brands/retailers willing to keep their focus on
design, marketing & sales
• Go for a long term, respectful & honest relationship
with your (production) partners…

70. WWW.FFI.BE
ONLINE KENNISLUIK – MODEGIDS
Incl lessons learned
WWW.CLOSE-THE-LOOP.BE

71. UPCOMING EVENTS
INFOSESSIE MERKEN, MODELLEN en OCTROOIEN – 17/11
Leuven
ADVIESDAGEN – 25/11 Antwerpen, 9/12 Leuven
SPREEKUREN - FFI Antwerpen – 14/11 en 20/12
LAB INFLUENCER MARKETING 29/11 Antwerpen 2/12 Brussel
6/12 Gent
FASHION TALKS – November 2017- Antwerpen

72. STAY IN TOUCH
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