A Review article based on dark side of modelling. The dark sides of fashion industry, the torture taken undertaken by models and other unfairness of society.

1. Principles and elements of designing
FST1009
Project Based Learning
Review Article based on
Darker Shades of Fashion
*Conditions Apply*
Submitted By,
N Saranya
16BFT1006

2. Abstract:
“Walking on into the world of glamour, all she expected was
gracing the magazine covers. Just the moment she thought her life is
getting her to a place she wanted, a storm that came from nowhere
pulled her into it. It pulled, squeezed, and finally threw her into a world
of drugs and partying demons. Before she could figure out what’s going
on she was wiped off, used and thrown away”
*end of the story*
Introduction:
On the face of it, some say they have the world at their feet. Great
looks, abundant money, fame, spotlight, Vacations and lot more just for
the face that sells thousands of products. But behind the glitz and
glamour there may be a lot that we don’t see until it is brushed down
under the carpet.
Modelling as every other person knows, is a public expression of
elegance, the beauty that never fades. The model on ramp seems to be
the happiest person on earth. It looks almost like they are devoid of all
worries that they walk around happily. But is it so? Their onstage life is
surely a glamourous elite one. The business as of today has become a
place of sex scandals and human trade. Though models enter in,
knowing there are consequences, they only get to know 40% of what’s
going on, the remaining 60% remains as a surprise life offers them.
Our glossy industry provokes superficial criticism of models
weight and body image, but the fact is that model’s clout in their
workplace is as tiny as their zero size frames. Though being a high time
it’s our responsibility to delve beneath the surface and consider the
concerns of the models from a labor and public health standpoint. It may

3. a reason of people that the photographs of models pervade our culture
and so they cannot help those who pervaded it. But we cannot promote
blissful images when their life is at stake. This effort to cleanse starts by
giving the faces of businesses a voice, a voice by which they can be
heard. Rectifying these errors begin by seeing these models through a
different lens; not as meat slaves but as human beings who deserve same
rights and protection as us.
Table of Contents:
 Life of a Model
o The story that is being repeated for the millionth time
 Entry into wonderland
o Brazil’s Model Factory
 Scraping the scraps
o The starting days
 The Spotlight
o Who get it?
o How they get it?
 Going for hunt or hunted?
o The backstage ‘adjustments’
 The raising voices
o Those who are too broke to be silent
 25 reasons why not to be a model
o Beware! Rather than because!
 Conclusion
o Okay! So?
 Acknowledgements
o It’s all because of you!
 References

4. The life of a Model:
2000 miles away, beneath the bright blue sky, following her lucky
stars, carrying the heavy head that almost sank in the weight of her
dreams; she walked in, into the land of illusion. Not a warm welcome,
yet she managed to retain her give up chanting her “Never give up”
mantra yet strangling through every path, watching each of her steps
crying, fighting and somehow managed to reach the ramp.
Glitz, Glamour, Money, Lights, Camera and simply everything.
With utmost satisfaction of reaching the first steps of her fantasy
dream, she began to prepare herself for the next level. Being a tricky
one, it gave her a lot of assessments, beginning with passing through the
fumes of stash and then getting up from the lake of cocaine. The trick
this level uses is that, once anyone tastes the pleasure it gives, they can
no longer resist it. It is perhaps the test of resistance, which no one has.
But she, being more occupied by the starter pack of pride of her
victory and future dreams steps in. This time life had tricked her very
well. It all started with just posing for photos, just another job of a
models so that the rich gangsters can have a frame surrounded by
‘chicks’ as they would casually be addressed. NO sooner that she was
seen around in places other than just parties, again with no other than the
role of side chicks. This time it was not the contracting agencies but the
art, they taught her which was named ‘adjustment’. Earlier it was
merely hangouts which later took her into the deeper depth of darkness.
It was too late by the time she realized she had not only been used
but also abused. But by then, she could only help heal the bruises
because they are already formed. Modeling has given her caked up skin
and bend bones while the efforts she has taken to survive in modelling
has given her a used body enclosing a restless soul.

5. With this, she had lost her fame and finally came out as a mere
side effect. It was only by then that she realized no one needs used up
stuff and she’s not the only one who was thrown out. This time taking
one of the tough decision she stepped out of that glamorous dark world
earning the name of a spoiled brat with the only hope of living a
clandestine life as her notorious past haunts the future.
The irony of this story is that, this is not the story of a
single person, but the same story that is shared by almost 90% of models
who enter the industry. It’s not the case where they aren’t aware of these
or that they want these, it’s simply that the illusion, the fake promises
and more than everything the weight of their dreams took them so far
Entry into the so called ‘Wonderland’:
It is seen that the young models have started their career right from
the early age of 9, when their dreams wouldn’t be shaped yet. But when
interrogated as how, the answer nearly points out to the land of Brazil.
The Brazil is also known as a model factory where in the models of top
brands such as H&M, Pantene Dolce and Gabbana are mostly Brazilians
or that their start of career points out to be Brazilian origin.
Brazil’s Model Factory:
It all starts with the hunt to find the most beautiful women on
earth, that lead to these exotic shows that are going on in Brazil. It all
comes from the remote places about 1000kms from Brazil. The model
scouts reach out to random schools and catch hold of high school kids
depending on their requirements. Being just the early age, the only
feature they expect is the height mostly because being the children of
smaller age categories, the rest of the features can be shaped out even
thereafter.

6. The task of the modelling scouts ranges from finding a model,
making her believe that she is awesome(even if she is not), get inside her
the dream of becoming a model, reach out to her care takers and make
them accept the offer of sending their child to the world of ‘wonders’
and watch them ‘grow’. So it all starts this way and they get models of
age group 8 to 16. Later the competitions and ramp shows goes on and
the models are filtered after which the selected models are shaped
according to their needs and expectations. It is everything beautiful to
know that the fortune starts at a younger stage and they mesmerize the
world with their smiles and so on. But the main thing they ignore is that,
in the period in which it is said to bloom, the flowers are made to bloom
in an irregular pattern than how it should be. And what do you think the
result will be nothing except nervous breakdown at the age of twenty.
This happens because on the urge to attain the expected shape and
structure of the body, the models are prescribed a diet plan that is merely
sufficed. To be more exact the body dimensions they need are as
follows: With a height of 5 feet 9”; with body shape 34-24-34; and BMI
under 18. To attain this is not a daily cup of tea for any normal person.
So in order to achieve this, they go through a process of controlled lesser
intake and controlled higher output in the form of sweat. To satisfy this
their diet plan consists of protein shakes with coconut water, kale
spinach, Banana, Blueberry, Hemp, Milk, Vegan plant protein toasted
coconut as well as pollen. With these controlled intakes, the prescribed
way to burn calories are. Weight lifting 4 times a week, squats, dead
lifts, bicep curls and press up. They also include cardio sessions twice a
day which includes Pilates, boxing, running, skipping and extreme
‘Ballet beautiful’ and Brazilian ‘butt lift classes’.
The other plans they use to keep them working are that they start
smoking to lose weight, snort cocaine, they take MDMA to stay awake

7. and they take valium, Xanax or alcohol to calm down. These practices
are the common ways by which they get addicted to this and they spoil
their career. Now the main objective of them using these is for losing
weight, if so when questioned about the body condition they need to
maintain they said,
Normal people have 21 to 23 body fat; Athletes have 18 to 20 body fat.
But if you want to be a model, you will be acceptable only when you
have 14 to 15 body fat.
Scraping the Scrap:
“A choice for a position between a chubby candidate with great talent
and a slim stylish one with loads of charm with an empty head, the latter
always wins”
-Anias Holden (Fashion Intern)
This simply means in this industry, your talent works, but the condition
is your beauty should be your entry pass. You get your work done only
when you are charming enough and have got a talent that would exhibit
your skills. Also when it comes to preparation and starting, it requires a
lot of your time and dedication. Also the main part is when you get
ready and are out into the battle field when you figure out that you will
never be credited anything other than debt. This life goes on until you
achieve a stable back ground. There are a lot of things you need to go
through. Some of the most common things are those that are related to
your payments, bookings and comfort. When discussing about the
payment the main thing that strikes is young models are never paid.
Their contractor covers your vision with a lot of sugar coated fake words
and says you’ll receive it soon while you’ll never receive it. By any

8. chance you get your money; you only get 50% of it stating that the other
50% of it is spent on makeups and your travel and food conveyances
even if you’ve not spent any. This is the normal logic by which people
live on. The next major thing that is compromised is your comfort. As a
part of normally living human beings we usually say if we have comfort,
we have everything. But in case of models, they are paid to lose comfort
and finish off their contracts. It only matters if they show off properly; it
never matters if they really are comfortable in those pieces of clothes.
This kind of concern sometimes gives way to worst cases wherein the
inflated toe was squashed into shoes that was too small for the size of
the model. It also arises out of weather concerns when they don’t allow
models to wear SPF protection since that appear reflective on camera.
With regards with working conditions it is even more dreadful, they are
made to work in bikini in snow clad places and are made to pose with
sweaters in deserts, which means they are completely devoid of their
comfort just to take pictures of matching background.
“I was once dressed as a mermaid for a Jean Paul Gaultier show. My
legs are bound into a fishtail so I had to come down the runway on
crutches”
-Coco Rocha
So when the question is about how the starting days of modelling
are, any model would answer it as ‘Hectic’ and ‘intolerable’. This isn’t
the mistake of the models. But that’s the way every industry treats an
amateur employer.

9. The Spotlight:
Despite all the hardships and sacrifices made, what every model
dream of is the spotlight. But at the end of the day what happens is the
top positions and the show stopper title is crowned by coveted people or
just film stars just for the sake of popularity and their fame. To name a
few today’s huge models Georgia May Jagger, Kaya Gerber, Bella and
Gigi Hadid and Cara Delevigne all come from a wealthy background. It
is said that the people who don’t crave for money more get that in
abundant. The exact point is that the rich get richer and the poor gets
only debts. Apart from just making and selling clothes, the fashion
industry as we all know is a billion-dollar expertise. It is an open
platform for marketing, advertising and much more. It is also considered
that it is not only about what you wear but also about how you exhibit
yourself and how the crowds expect the model to be, either a loved face
or a charming stranger. So it entirely depends on your popularity. Also
now a day what’s on trend is the, young film stars just for their pocket
money do all kinds of modelling. They are easily accepted by the model
agents because of the fact that they are widely appreciated and don’t
need any more introductions. The way it affects the models is that all
their opportunities are grabbed by those bigshots are so they are denied
of any opportunity. So this finally gives them a message that unless or
until they become famous on their own cost, they won’t be accepted.
This again requires them to spend money or again indulge in flattery to
get something done.
Going for a hunt or getting hunted?
“Being a model means you belong to a system that kills young women
and later in life you look back on your part in it with horror”
-A voice of a model

10. When preparing for hunt, in their way to catch up with stardom the
worst things the models have to tackle are the backstage ‘adjustments’
that are waiting for them. Just with their talents and reaching the top is a
distant dream. To answer the pleas and carving and to be on top, the
shortest gateway that I left for the innocent souls is the bed. Not being
rude or provocative but the only way they can please their seniors is this.
This is what is demanded by them. As a part of these party promoters get
young models promising them major contacts and bigger job
opportunities to night clubs. Night club owners pay promoters to bring
models as young as 15 to their clubs to attract rich men. Rich men visit
these clubs more often because young models go there. This makes them
spend more time and money there ultimately profiting the club owner by
which the promoter gets a share on profit.
“You get paid on your quality of what you bring to the table”
“Quality of what?”
“Girls.”
-A report from abc news
Questions may arise on why they are doing it when there are other ways
to attain success, but the fact is that, “no one promotes you if they don’t
get benefitted, officially as well as privately”
Raising Voices:
Here in this column I would like to cite in a few words of models who
speak out of their own bad times in modelling:

11. Emily Fox:
Now 25 years old and still working in the industry, Fox says that most
years she earns less than $20,000 before taxes. "You're going to really
struggle and you'll be really poor."
CNN NEWS:
She was walking into the cafe to meet the scout when the male model
she had been communicating with called her and told her that since she
wasn't young enough (she was 22 at the time) to be as desirable as other
models, she would need to perform sexual acts for the scout in order to
secure a job.
Horrified, she turned around and ran to the bathroom, where she hid in a
stall for hours.
"I was in shock. I didn't know what to say. I didn't know what to do... I
was shaking,"
She said.
Hearing all the comments from a female model, let’s hear a few words
from a male model:
This interview is based on my own conversation
with a Male model.
Q: How did you get into modelling?
“For me modelling is not my ambition and all, it
came as such. Basically I started with dancing and through dancing
through my friend I started to walk on ramp. My height was my
advantage and I got a lot of opportunities. In a fashion show its only
about how you showcase your outfit and the person who designed the
person.”

12. Q: How were your starting days? Did it match your expectations or you
had to adjust?
“As I didn’t take modelling as my ambition I
didn’t put my 100% into it. But still in the starting days, it was kind of
adjustments, according to people who call us and competitions. When
you go to international level it’s totally different and elite. You just go
on, walk and come back. But in India it’s totally a different concept,
there’s politics mixed in. There are lots of strategies on who would walk
first and who would dominate and all those. It’s only about influence
and recommendations. When it comes to international level it’s only the
garment that is showcased, not the body. People walk for three shows
and then they walk across the globe. But in India it’s totally a different
culture. Their body, looks, complex everything is noted. In international
you can’t see the same model more than thrice maximum, but here it’s
not the case. You see the same person every time”
Q: But why? Why does it happen in India This way?
“This happens in India because people are not
open-minded. Not completely, when you go to Mumbai you can find
people who are open minded. But even then opportunities are very less.
Here people don’t watch what they wear; they watch what type of
women they are. He has a well-fitted body only those matters. Or else
people don’t bother what kind of abs you have. It only matters if you are
fine good looking and skinny. Sometimes depending on garments,
fitness level matters. On the basis of their costume they find muscular or
skinny models. Height plays a significant role in modelling”
Q: What are the requirements of a model?
“Now a day’s fashion industry had become very
much advanced. They require various study process and courses to be

13. completed. But when we came in there was nothing. You have a good
height, that’s cool everything is accepted. It’s not like the change has
happened in 20yrs. It keeps changes each year. And every year you find
new arrivals both in people as well as ideas. Now the current scenario is
that people have utilized almost every material that they can cut and put
on a model, and currently they are left with nothing. Now-a-days people
started coming up with clothing out of tissue paper and plastic glasses.
Almost every other thing has expired. This 20years people have seen
everything and they have nothing left new for new people. It’s currently
like even if you come up with a great masterpiece designers come and
they are like ‘I’ve seen this already’. So they don’t have anything else to
discover.”
Q: From your starting days until the position which you are in now, how
is your journey? What has changed? How it was and how it is?
“Ugh well, for me fashion industry is like a new
world. From the start it was like a new world to me. I keep seeing and I
keep experiencing. I was 100% happy with it. And then it was growing
and growing I just wanted to quit and come out of it, two reasons for
that. One reason is that I had passion in my film industry. I wanted to
quit modelling and come out of it and the next reason is that I’ve to give
chances to other models who are passionate about it.”
Q: Are you totally comfortable with modelling and the type of
garments?
“(laughs) It’s not like I am comfortable or not. I
get paid, I’ve to wear. No other go. I was comfortable with the garments
I was to wear. It depends about the pay as well. Short dresses have
different pay, colored full gowns have different pay and it has different
pay for different kinds of dresses. Your pay also depends on the number

14. of show you’ve walked into. If it’s your first show, then the pay is less.
If you’ve walked for 10 shows then its high. It goes in that way.”
Q: Out of 10 models who enter into the field, how many are successful?
“For this I would rate about 4.5, not more than
that. In India what happens is frankly the film actors are taking off,
everything. They do modelling. People come to watch the person.
Except the people on the front rows every other people see the
celebrities. If the same ramp is taken by an international modelling star,
it doesn’t create an impact. People only care about film stars not about
top models. In India people are blind folded to see only the person and
not the garment. That is why I’ve given 4.5 here. If it’s international
there no matter who the person is, only the garment matters. So there I
would have rated as 9. There they do their job and they flaunt their
garments. After the show the people get to speak to the designers who
designed. Actually to be honest, I would’ve rated it even more, but I
don’t want to let my India down.”
Q: Is there any abuse in the fashion Industry?
“A lot. Lots of abuses are going on in the
industry. But as far as I am considered I am not into those drugs kind of
things, because I don’t smoke and I am not an alcoholic am out of it.
There are lots of drugs, lots of forcing. But all these are like, it is born
with the modelling. Because once ramp walk is done, there is party after
every show. Starting everything is forced into it. Then later they get used
to it and they follow it. Hope you’ve watched fashion movie, what is
shown in the movie is only 5% of what is happening, because if they
show everything royally then none of the parents will allow their kids
into it.”
Q: How about the entry into modelling?

15. “It’s all about whom you approach. It’s not a
matter to get into 10 people who are nothing. It’s only about the right
person you choose to get introduced to”
Q: On the whole how is modelling?
“Fantastic fabulous Phenomenon”
Q: So everything is positive?
“It’s not like everything is positive. Everything
depends upon you. How you take it. I loved everything and I loved it”
Q: If your son or daughter wants to enter into fashion field, will you
allow them?
“Why not, I’ll definitely support them. I won’t
push them out as such, I’ll tell them to first analyze and study the
industry, know what the industry is and then, continue with it if they are
so much interested. But before that I’ll tell them to get ready with a
second profession. After all we are Indians. We have to get a second
support. We are paid in rupees not in dollars.”
Q: What are the changes you would want to happen in Fashion Industry?
“I know there will be a lot of changes in
modelling industry, but the thing I wanted to stress is I want people to
get more knowledge on the kind of garment the model is wearing. I want
them to analyze the garments more deeply rather than simply staring at
the models.”
Q: Everything is fine in industry? Isn’t there any pain or abuse?
“When you talk to a male model, you won’t get
any negative points unless they are a gay. But when you speak to a
female model, you get lots of pain in it. Lots of unsaid screams you can’t

16. even think of. It always depends. Even in my case though I am a non-
alcoholic, I got lots of chances to drink. But I am stable, so it all depends
on your stability.”
*end*
25 Reasons why not to be a model:
 Develop a thick skin.-They never age.
 Eat…Hey you!! How can you raise your calories when you have
work??!!
 Shoots Everyday….<3 Dream that is... 💔
 You don’t actually own things that are yours.
 Wait….Wait…Wait…Your wait is never over!
 Expectations never match reality!1
 “Comfort for a while please” You are paid because you won’t get
any. Extremely wrong condition, wrong clothes
 “Time to wind up!! Its 5” “Ugh ugh not for you!”
 “TGIF” Never for you guys.
 “OMG!! Angelic they are” Only on stage... They are backstage
Slaves.
 Glamorous shoots, magazine cover……Attractive/Seductive 
 On Camera 24/7, sometimes informed often not: /
 Cleanliness?? Stop Demanding!!

17.  Payment??!! “You are made beautiful and famous; you need to be
paid for that??
 Health? Not a priority. Perform first.
 Drama...Drama...Drama... Around the corner. At the back.
 Your Aches and achenes are none of their business.
 Be HONEST, Flirty.
 Travel Aroooouuuuuund (if you want business), but at your own
cost.
 You are paid $2000* (*incl of all taxes)
 You don’t matter, only your ‘S’ curve matters.
Conclusion:
Okay so?
All that being said!
Though all these are prevailing, as every coin has two sides, same is
the case with Fashion.
So let’s not totally eradicate or totally accept.
Being a future part of fashion Industry,
LETS MAKE IT A BETTER PLACE.
Heal The World, Make It A Better Place!
*Be the Change, Make the Change*

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