2. Interlining:
Interlining is a very important in apparel
manufacturing. Interlining is one kind of
accessories that is used between the two
layers of fabric in a garment. To keep the
different component or part of apparel
in a desired shape, a kind of fabric is
used between the two ply of fabric by
sewing or fusing is called interlining.
Generally, interlinings are soft, thick, and
flexible. It is made cotton, nylon,
polyester, wool and viscose. Sometimes
finishing is necessary to improve its
properties i.e. shrink resist finish, crease
resist finish.
3. Functions of Interlining:
•To support the garment.
•To control the shape of the garment.
•To control the area of the apparel.
•To reinforce the components of the garment.
•To make the apparel beautiful, strong and attractive.
•To ensure the anticipated look, quality and effect of the fabric.
•To improve garment performance.
4. Uses of Interlining:
Interlining is generally used in
collar, cuffs, waist band, front
facing of coat, outerwear plackets,
jackets, blazers etc.
5. Types of Interlinings:
There are mainly two types
of interlining are as follows:
1.Non-fusible interlining.
2.Fusible interlining.
6. ALTERNATIVE METHODS OF JOINING
FABRIC
Sewing is done by needle and thread for joining fabric is the oldest
and widely used method. By researching with a long time, some
alternative methods are invented for joining of fabric. The following
are the available alternative methods :
1. Fusing
2. welding and Adhesive
3. Moulding.
7. 1. FUSING
Fusing is a process of
attaching an interlining,
especially to the part of a
garment that requires
stiffness.
Some of the application
area of Fusing in a garment
are placket, collar, cuff,
waistband, men's jacket
forefront
9. METHODS OF FUSING
1.REVERSE FUSING:
*OUTER FABRIC LIES ON TOP OF THE FUSIBLE.
*USED IN FUSING SHIRT AND BLOUSE COLLARS.
2.SANDWICH FUSING
*HEAT IS APPLIED BOTH FROM ABOVE AND BELOW.
*TWO OUTER FABRICS ON OUTSIDE & TWO INTERLINING THE INSIDE(FOUR LAYERS) ARE FUSED TOGETHER.
3.DOUBLE FUSING:
*FUSING OF TWO SORTS OF INTERLINING TO THE OUTER FABRIC IN ONE OPERATION IS DONE.
*USED IN SHIRT COLLARS AND MEN’S JACKET FRONTS.
10. QUALITY CONTROL IN FUSING:
Temperature
Pressure
Time
Pilling strength
Dry clean / Washing
11. 2. WELDING
Fabric welding is the process of
joining pieces of fabrics using heat
and pressure. Thermoplastic
coatings, such as polyvinylchloride
(PVC), polyurethane (PU),
polyethylene fabric (PE) and
polypropylene (PP) are used for
heat sealing. Fabric welding is not
required for the usual daily
or products.
12. PROCESS OF WELDING
THE “V” IN PVC IS FOR VINYL. PVC (POLYVINYL CHLORIDE) IS A VERSATILE
POLYMERIC PLASTIC THAT IS STRONG, FLEXIBLE, AND WEATHER RESISTANT,
AND IT HAS AN ATTRACTIVE FINISH FOR FABRICS USED IN SIGNS, BANNERS,
TENTS, TRANSPORTATION, AND MANY OTHER APPLICATIONS. PVC IS A
“THERMOPLASTIC” WHICH MEANS THAT IT IS HIGHLY SUITABLE FOR
WELDING EQUIPMENT ENABLES FAST STRONG AND WEATHER-TIGHT
OF PVC FABRICS, INCLUDING USING WELD ABLE WEBBING IN OVERLAPPED
SEAMS. IN THESE CASES, ONE SHEET OF VINYL-COATED FABRIC IS BEING
WELDED TO ANOTHER PIECE OF THE SAME TYPE OF FABRIC. (PVC-COATED
WELD ABLE WEBBING™ CAN ALSO BE STITCHED, OR FOR LIGHT-WEIGHT
AND BANNERS, IT CAN BE APPLIED USING DOUBLE-SIDED BANNER TAPE OR
PVC SOLVENT ADHESIVE.)
13. APPLICATIONS OF WELDING
For neatening of fabrics.
For joining of motif (must be made from thermoplastics fibers)
For sealing the edge of ribbon or lace.
For making tie.
For shaping the parts of garments.
For making button hole.
For sealing and shaping of waist band edge and so on
14. Adhesive
Adhesive means a
substance that causes fibers
, fabrics ,yarns or others
materials to adhere or stick
together. In screen
printing, used to attach
fabric to the conveyor or
table.
15. TYPES OF ADHESIVE
Two types of adhesives are available for joining fabrics:
1. By using silicon paper ,containing a thin layer of
adhesive in which fabrics are join after placing.
2. By using a solid adhesive ,this will be melted under
heat. As a result fabrics are joining together.
16. PROCESS OF ADHESIVE
In this process fabrics are joined in a limited quantity. It
can be used as looper thread for neatening the edge of
fabrics. Adhesive thread is melted by applying heat and
pressure by folding the neaten edge and joining with
fabrics during making of hem.
Disadvantage is that it can be changed and also
required for top stitching to increase the strength of
seam.
17. MOULDING
Molding can not be joined one or
more plies of fabrics by this method
but it is placed as a alternative
method of joining . because it can
be made by the shape of garments
through the joining of plies of
fabrics by sewing ,but this shape to
the garments can be made by
molding without sewing.
18. PROCESS OF MOLDING
It is the process of providing any specific shape to the
fabric generally molding is done in a case of knitting
fabrics , because it is easy to stretch or shrank the fabrics.
The shape is given to the fabrics by stretching or
shrinking and entered thermoplastic fibers are softening
by applying heat . Then the temperature is reached to be
normal. As result new shape of area or fabrics are made.
19. USEES OF MOLDING
A few years ago molding is used in the women’s trouser
at large rate. But at present a small amount of trousers are
making for women, because of some limitation with this
method due to the increase of beauty, fashion or style.
Now a days it is used for making brassiere for women.
Then brassiere id made by joining two cuffs.
20. COMPARISON BETWEEN SEWING AND ALTERNATIVE
MEHOD OF JOINING
SEWING METHOD
1. Garments are joining by needle thread.
2. garments becomes soft to the sewing
line.
3. comfortable during the end use.t
4. the production of seam by this method
contains higher strength.
5. the fabric can be joined by sewing at
higher speed.
ALTERNATIVE METHODs
1. two or more fabrics are joined by
fusion.
2. the fabric become stiff and rough to
the sewing line.
3. uncomfortable during the end use.
4. seam strength is comparatively less
than sewing method.
5.the fabric can be joined comparatively
at lower speed.