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The Waters of the Ocean
A. The Unique Nature of Pure Water

 All matter is made of atoms
 Elements are make from one kind of atom
 A molecule is two or more different atoms combined
 Water is a polar molecule; one end is positively
  charged and
 the other is negatively charged
1. The Three States of Water
 Only substance on Earth to naturally exist in three states
 Weak hydrogen bonds form between to the positive end
  and
 the negative end of different water molecules
 Solid water molecules pack close together & locked in
  fixed three dimensional pattern
 Becomes more dense until about 4°C (get less dense) &
  expands
 When water freezes in fresh and marine water the ice
  forms on top allowing organisms
 to live underneath the ice
 When marine water freezes it acts like an insulator to stop
  freezing all the water
2. Heat and Water
 Bonds must be broken before molecules can begin to
  move around
 Melts at higher temperature & absorbs a lot of heat
  when it melts (high latent heart of melting) and great
  deal of heat must be removed to freeze it
 Melting ice, added heat breaks more hydrogen bonds
  than increasing molecular motion
 Mixture of ice & water is 0°-adding heat goes into
  melting the ice not raising temperature
 High heat capacity therefore marine organisms not
  affect by temperature changes in atmosphere & latent
  heat of evaporation
3. Water as a Solvent
 Dissolve more things than any other natural
  substance
 (universal solvent) especially salts
 Salts made of opposite charged particles and conducts
  electricity
Single atoms or groups of atoms
 In water, strong ion charges attract water molecule,
  water molecules surround the ions and pull them
  apart (dissociation)
B. Seawater

 Characteristics due to nature of pure water &
  materials dissolved in it
 Dissolved solids due to chemical weathering of rocks
  on land & hydrothermal vents
1. Salt Composition
  Sodium chloride account for 85% of all solids dissolved
  Salinity is total salt dissolved in seawater
  number of grams left behind when 1000 grams evaporated
  if 35 grams left then 35 parts per thousand or 350/00 or 35
  psu (practical salinity units)
 Rule of constant proportions states that the relative
  amounts of various ions in seawater are always the same
 Differences in salinity results from removal (evaporation)
  and addition (precipitation) of water
 Rarely have to deal with changes in ratio of ions as result
  easier to control salt & water balance
 Average salinity is 35 psu and between 33-37 psu in open
  ocean
 Red Sea is 40 psu 7 & Baltic Sea is 7 psu
 Why is Red Sea salinity so high and the Baltic Sea so low?
2. Salinity, Temperature, and Density

 Get denser as it gets saltier, colder, or both
 -2° to 30°C
 temps. below zero possible because saltwater freezes
  at colder temps.
 Density controlled more by temperature than salinity
 There are exceptions therefore salinity & temp need to
  be measured to determine density
3. Dissolved Gases
 O2, CO2 and N2 in atmosphere & sea surface
 Gas exchange happens between the surface &
  atmosphere
 Dissolved gas concentration higher in cold water,
  lower in warm water
 Amount of oxygen in water is affected by
  photosynthesis & respiration
 Most oxygen is released into the atmosphere
 More susceptible to oxygen depletion than
  atmosphere
 80% of gasses is carbon dioxide
4. Transparency

 Sunlight can penetrate, but it’s affected by the
  material suspended in the water
 Important to the photosynthetic organisms
 Runoff makes coastal waters less transparent than
  deep blue waters of open ocean
5. Pressure
 On land, organisms are under 1 atm at sea level
 Marine organism have the pressure of the atmosphere &
  water
 With every 10m increase depth another atm is added
 As atms increase gases are compressed
 Organism have air bladders, floats and lungs that shrink
  and collapse
 Limits depth range, some organism are injured when
  brought to the surface
 Submarines & housing must be specially engineered to
  withstand pressure
Ocean Circulation
 Throughout depths currents move and mix ocean
 waters and transport heat nutrients, pollutants and
 organisms
A. Surface circulation
 Driven by the wind
1. The Coriolis Effect
 Because Earth is rotating anything that moves over
  the surface tends to turn a little rather in a straight line
 Deflects large-scale motions like winds and currents
  to the right in Northern Hemisphere and to the left in
  Southern Hemisphere
2. Wind Patterns
 Winds driven by heat energy from sun
 Trade winds
 warmer at equator
 wind at equator becomes less dense and air from
  adjacent areas gets sucked in to replace it creating
  winds
 wind bent by Coriolis Effect
 approach equator at 45° angle where there is no land
 steadiest winds
 Westerlies at middle latitudes move in opposite
  direction
 Polar easterlies at high latitudes
 most variable winds
3. Surface Currents
 Winds push the sea surface creating currents
 Surface current moves off 45°
 Top layer pushes on layer below & again Coriolis Effect
  come into play
 Second layer moves slightly to right and slower and is
  repeated down the water column (Ekman spiral)
 lower waters move progressively at greater angles from
  wind
 effect of wind decrease with depth
 100 m no wind is felt
 produces Ekman transport
 upper part of water column moves perpendicular to wind
  direction to right N. Hemisphere & left in S. Hemisphere
 trade winds move toward equator the equatorial
  current move parallel
 currents combine into huge gyres
 west side of gyres carry warm water to higher
  latitudes while cold current flow on eastern sides
 giant thermostat warming the poles & cooling
 tropics
 tropical organisms like corals tend to extend into
 high latitudes on the west sides of the oceans
 cold loving organisms like kelp grow closest to
 equator on eastern shores
 large-scale fluctuations can cause conditions like El
  Nino
 current shift with season and weather
 near the continental shelf currents are effect by the
  shape of the bottom & coastline
B. Thermohaline Circulation and the
         Great Ocean Conveyor
 Ocean water stratified
 Cold more dense on the bottom & warmer less dense on
   top
1. The Three-layered Ocean
 Surface layer or mixed layer 100 to 200m thick
 Mixed by wind, waves and currents
 Sometimes in summer & spring in temperate & polar
   waters sharp transition to cooler water (theromoclines)
   noticed by divers
 Intermediate layer depth of 1000 to 1500m
 Main thermocline rarely breaks down & in open ocean
 Deep or bottom layers
 Below 1500 m
 typically less than 4°C
2. Stability and Overturn
 Water column with less dense water on top and dense
  water on bottom with no mixing is stable
 Depends on the difference in densities between layers
 If difference is small not much energy is needed to
  mix the water
 Downwelling occurs when top layers become more
  dense & sinks
 The sinking water displaces and mixes with deeper
  water (overturn)
 Density & temperature profiles are straight-lined
 Temperate and polar during winter
 Mixing layers extends greater into water column
 Important to productivity
 In intense downwelling, large volume of water may
 leave without mixing
 Changes in salinity at surface
Precipitation, evaporation, freezing, and temp.
 Once water sunk it does not change in salinity and
 temp. (water mass)
 Oceanographers can follow the circulation over large
 distances
 Because it is driven by density (determined by temp
 and salinity) the circulation is called thermohaline
 circulation
3. The Great Ocean Conveyer
 Only places where surface overturn reaches the
  bottom is Atlantic south of Greenland & north of
  Antartica
 The sinking water spreads though the Atlantic &
  other ocean basins then eventually rise to surface
  and flows back
 Recycles about every 4000 years
 Regulates climate and alterations have produced
  rapid climate changes (ie ice ages)
 Bring dissolved oxygen to deep sea
3.3 Waves and Tides
A. Waves
 Caused by wind
 Wave crest moves up & forward
 Trough moves down and back
 Water particles do not go anywhere
 Moves in a circle
 Faster the longer the wind the bigger the waves
 Fetch-span of open water
 Larger the fetch the bigger the wave
 Seas
 Sharp peaks stretch over trough
 Move away get faster than speed of wind
 Swells
 Once waves settle
 Surf
 Bottom forces water to move elongated ellipses
 Wavelength get shorter
 Waves “pile up” becoming higher & steeper until they
  fall forward
 Water affected by mixture of waves
 Two crest adding to make a higher wave (wave
  reinforcement)
As high as ten stories
 Trough & crest combine & cancel out the wave
Chemical and physical features of seawater and the
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Chemical and physical features of seawater and the

  • 1. The Waters of the Ocean
  • 2. A. The Unique Nature of Pure Water  All matter is made of atoms  Elements are make from one kind of atom  A molecule is two or more different atoms combined  Water is a polar molecule; one end is positively charged and  the other is negatively charged
  • 3.
  • 4. 1. The Three States of Water  Only substance on Earth to naturally exist in three states  Weak hydrogen bonds form between to the positive end and  the negative end of different water molecules  Solid water molecules pack close together & locked in fixed three dimensional pattern  Becomes more dense until about 4°C (get less dense) & expands  When water freezes in fresh and marine water the ice forms on top allowing organisms  to live underneath the ice  When marine water freezes it acts like an insulator to stop freezing all the water
  • 5. 2. Heat and Water  Bonds must be broken before molecules can begin to move around  Melts at higher temperature & absorbs a lot of heat when it melts (high latent heart of melting) and great deal of heat must be removed to freeze it  Melting ice, added heat breaks more hydrogen bonds than increasing molecular motion  Mixture of ice & water is 0°-adding heat goes into melting the ice not raising temperature  High heat capacity therefore marine organisms not affect by temperature changes in atmosphere & latent heat of evaporation
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  • 7. 3. Water as a Solvent  Dissolve more things than any other natural substance  (universal solvent) especially salts  Salts made of opposite charged particles and conducts electricity Single atoms or groups of atoms  In water, strong ion charges attract water molecule, water molecules surround the ions and pull them apart (dissociation)
  • 8.
  • 9. B. Seawater  Characteristics due to nature of pure water & materials dissolved in it  Dissolved solids due to chemical weathering of rocks on land & hydrothermal vents
  • 10. 1. Salt Composition  Sodium chloride account for 85% of all solids dissolved  Salinity is total salt dissolved in seawater  number of grams left behind when 1000 grams evaporated  if 35 grams left then 35 parts per thousand or 350/00 or 35 psu (practical salinity units)  Rule of constant proportions states that the relative amounts of various ions in seawater are always the same  Differences in salinity results from removal (evaporation) and addition (precipitation) of water  Rarely have to deal with changes in ratio of ions as result easier to control salt & water balance  Average salinity is 35 psu and between 33-37 psu in open ocean  Red Sea is 40 psu 7 & Baltic Sea is 7 psu  Why is Red Sea salinity so high and the Baltic Sea so low?
  • 11. 2. Salinity, Temperature, and Density  Get denser as it gets saltier, colder, or both  -2° to 30°C  temps. below zero possible because saltwater freezes at colder temps.  Density controlled more by temperature than salinity  There are exceptions therefore salinity & temp need to be measured to determine density
  • 12. 3. Dissolved Gases  O2, CO2 and N2 in atmosphere & sea surface  Gas exchange happens between the surface & atmosphere  Dissolved gas concentration higher in cold water, lower in warm water  Amount of oxygen in water is affected by photosynthesis & respiration  Most oxygen is released into the atmosphere  More susceptible to oxygen depletion than atmosphere  80% of gasses is carbon dioxide
  • 13. 4. Transparency  Sunlight can penetrate, but it’s affected by the material suspended in the water  Important to the photosynthetic organisms  Runoff makes coastal waters less transparent than deep blue waters of open ocean
  • 14. 5. Pressure  On land, organisms are under 1 atm at sea level  Marine organism have the pressure of the atmosphere & water  With every 10m increase depth another atm is added  As atms increase gases are compressed  Organism have air bladders, floats and lungs that shrink and collapse  Limits depth range, some organism are injured when brought to the surface  Submarines & housing must be specially engineered to withstand pressure
  • 15.
  • 16. Ocean Circulation  Throughout depths currents move and mix ocean waters and transport heat nutrients, pollutants and organisms
  • 17. A. Surface circulation  Driven by the wind
  • 18. 1. The Coriolis Effect  Because Earth is rotating anything that moves over the surface tends to turn a little rather in a straight line  Deflects large-scale motions like winds and currents to the right in Northern Hemisphere and to the left in Southern Hemisphere
  • 19. 2. Wind Patterns  Winds driven by heat energy from sun  Trade winds  warmer at equator  wind at equator becomes less dense and air from adjacent areas gets sucked in to replace it creating winds  wind bent by Coriolis Effect  approach equator at 45° angle where there is no land  steadiest winds  Westerlies at middle latitudes move in opposite direction  Polar easterlies at high latitudes  most variable winds
  • 20.
  • 21. 3. Surface Currents  Winds push the sea surface creating currents  Surface current moves off 45°  Top layer pushes on layer below & again Coriolis Effect come into play  Second layer moves slightly to right and slower and is repeated down the water column (Ekman spiral)  lower waters move progressively at greater angles from wind  effect of wind decrease with depth  100 m no wind is felt  produces Ekman transport  upper part of water column moves perpendicular to wind direction to right N. Hemisphere & left in S. Hemisphere
  • 22.
  • 23.  trade winds move toward equator the equatorial current move parallel  currents combine into huge gyres  west side of gyres carry warm water to higher latitudes while cold current flow on eastern sides  giant thermostat warming the poles & cooling tropics  tropical organisms like corals tend to extend into high latitudes on the west sides of the oceans  cold loving organisms like kelp grow closest to equator on eastern shores
  • 24.  large-scale fluctuations can cause conditions like El Nino  current shift with season and weather  near the continental shelf currents are effect by the shape of the bottom & coastline
  • 25.
  • 26. B. Thermohaline Circulation and the Great Ocean Conveyor  Ocean water stratified  Cold more dense on the bottom & warmer less dense on top 1. The Three-layered Ocean  Surface layer or mixed layer 100 to 200m thick  Mixed by wind, waves and currents  Sometimes in summer & spring in temperate & polar waters sharp transition to cooler water (theromoclines) noticed by divers  Intermediate layer depth of 1000 to 1500m  Main thermocline rarely breaks down & in open ocean  Deep or bottom layers  Below 1500 m  typically less than 4°C
  • 27. 2. Stability and Overturn  Water column with less dense water on top and dense water on bottom with no mixing is stable  Depends on the difference in densities between layers  If difference is small not much energy is needed to mix the water  Downwelling occurs when top layers become more dense & sinks  The sinking water displaces and mixes with deeper water (overturn)  Density & temperature profiles are straight-lined  Temperate and polar during winter
  • 28.  Mixing layers extends greater into water column  Important to productivity  In intense downwelling, large volume of water may leave without mixing  Changes in salinity at surface Precipitation, evaporation, freezing, and temp.  Once water sunk it does not change in salinity and temp. (water mass)  Oceanographers can follow the circulation over large distances  Because it is driven by density (determined by temp and salinity) the circulation is called thermohaline circulation
  • 29.
  • 30. 3. The Great Ocean Conveyer  Only places where surface overturn reaches the bottom is Atlantic south of Greenland & north of Antartica  The sinking water spreads though the Atlantic & other ocean basins then eventually rise to surface and flows back  Recycles about every 4000 years  Regulates climate and alterations have produced rapid climate changes (ie ice ages)  Bring dissolved oxygen to deep sea
  • 31.
  • 32. 3.3 Waves and Tides A. Waves  Caused by wind  Wave crest moves up & forward  Trough moves down and back  Water particles do not go anywhere  Moves in a circle  Faster the longer the wind the bigger the waves  Fetch-span of open water  Larger the fetch the bigger the wave  Seas  Sharp peaks stretch over trough  Move away get faster than speed of wind
  • 33.  Swells  Once waves settle  Surf  Bottom forces water to move elongated ellipses  Wavelength get shorter  Waves “pile up” becoming higher & steeper until they fall forward  Water affected by mixture of waves  Two crest adding to make a higher wave (wave reinforcement) As high as ten stories  Trough & crest combine & cancel out the wave