This document provides information on nutrition for high altitude mountaineering. It discusses nutrition needs for endurance athletes, expedition eating styles, food packing strategies, hydration, the phases of the day in terms of food needs, recommended foods for different phases, calorie and weight goals, and tips for food and mood at high altitudes. Key points covered include the need for frequent hydration and carbohydrate intake during activity, focusing on recovery after exercise with carbs and protein, and bringing a variety of foods to lift spirits in cold conditions at high altitudes.

1. HIGH ALTITUDE
MOUNTAINEERING SEMINAR
HIGH ALTITUDE AND COLD WEATHER NUTRITION
Steve Billig
Vegetarian Nutrition Center

2. • Nutrition for endurance athletes
• Expedition eating

3. STEP 1:
• Become experienced winter campers
– Learn to cook in your vestibule

4. A DAY IN THE LIFE
Morning: 2 – 3 hours
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Awake
Get dressed
Nature’s calls
Breakfast
Melt snow
Break camp
Gear up
Climb
Evening: 4 hours
• Make camp
• Make dinner
• Melt snow

5. COOKING STYLES
• Expedition (group) cooking
• Personal food
• cooking
• rehydration
• cold food

6. FOOD PACKING STRATEGIES
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Complete day(s) stuff sacks
Meal bags (e.g., breakfasts, dinners)
Active and storage bags
Caching food

7. NUTRITION
(caveat: Everyone is unique.
Know your own body)
two categories of nutrients
Energy nutrients
• Carbohydrates
• Protein
• Fat
Non-energy nutrients
• Vitamins
• Minerals
• Fiber
• Anti-oxidants
• Water

8. HYDRATION
• Dramatic effect on performance
• Start out well hydrated
• Need frequent, regular gulps
– keep water easily accessible, use timer
• Use sports drinks to add calories (carbs not
protein) and electrolytes
• 2 ½ quarts is standard max. May need to
replenish.
• Standard for assessing hydration
– urine color

9. PHASES OF THE DAY
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Pre climbing:
Climbing:
Post climbing:
Other meals:
front-load energy/water
continuous energy/water
focus on recovery
focus on nutrition and
energy

10. FOODS FOR PHASES
• Pre climbing:
– Mostly carbs: cereals, breads, pastas, dried fruit, Pop Tarts,
candy bars, sports drinks
– Simple carbs/sugar to closer to the activity
• Climbing:
– Simple carbs: sports bars, granola bars, sports drinks, gels.
Limit nuts.
• Post climbing:
– Start within ½ hour, mix of carbs and protein
– Recovery bars or drinks, sandwich with high protein food
• Other meals:
– Bump up protein, fats and real food (meat, sausage, beans,
grains, cheese, nuts, halva)
– Eat for pleasure

11. HOW MUCH FOOD?
• Calorie goal: 2,500 – 5,000 per day
– Expect to lose weight
– Vary by climbing/rest/weather days
• Weight goal
– Max 2 lbs/person/day
• How to increase calories:
– fats
– drinking calories

12. FOOD AND MOOD
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Lift spirits
Alleviate high altitude anorexia
Try out all foods
Bring treats

13. TIDBITS
• In cold weather, everything that
contains moisture will freeze
– jelly, honey, cheese
– tooth paste
– sun screen
– contact lens fluids
– wet wipes