19069321 red-bug-complete-plans-set

Building The
1920 Briggs & Stratton
Cycle Car
Copyright 2004, 2005
Everett Moore
Everett Moore
P.O. Box 1705
Cottonwood, AZ 86326
1

Foreword
The original Cycle Car that inspired this
reproduction had the famous “Motor Wheel”
as its power source. This simple unit had only
three controls. The throttle was controlled
from a small quadrant placed on the steering
wheel, and the entire wheel assembly was
raised off the ground by means of a lever to
the right of the driver.
The brake was foot-operated and, merely,
consisted of a board rubbing on both rear
wheels. Crude to say the least! It probably
served the purpose, however, I decided to be a
little bit more professional with the braking
arrangement on this replica.
Designing and building a “Motor Wheel,” I
felt, would be beyond the intent of a simple
car to be built without welding or lathe work.
The engine is mounted on the chassis, which
extends to the rear about 10” more than the
original. Through a Comet torque converter,
it drives a jack shaft that, in turn, drives the
right rear wheel.
I was tempted to use a differential in
place of the jack shaft, but made myself keep
to the simplest approach. Besides, I had no
experience with driving a small car with only
one rear wheel. It had been done many times
by “sidewalk” car builders and was even used
in a little, production car — the King Midget.
I still wanted to have brakes on both rear
wheels and worked out, with the use of air-craft
pulleys and control cable, an equalizing
system, whereby the same braking force was
applied to both rear wheels.
I used 4” drums with an external band.
One thing I learned was, while sufficient for
parade driving, I got minimal braking. The 4”
drums on a 26” wheel was at a disadvantage.
At the speeds traveled, there’s sufficient stop-ping
power, but, don’t worry about dragging a
flat spot on your tires!
My final design used a foot throttle and
hand brake, both being the simplest
approach to the task at hand. I had to con-stantly
remind myself of the criteria I was
designing to meet. I wanted a simple car with
which an entry level builder would have no
problem.
The original Cycle Car was built on six 3
1/2” slats apparently of 1” thick oak or hicko-ry.
To keep construction in the affordable
class, I chose to build the chassis from a piece
of 2 x 8 foot 3/4” plywood. Dummy slats were
created by gluing six 3-1/2” strips of 1/4” ply-wood
to the top with equal distant spacing of
approximately 5/8”. This added a bit of
strength and created the slat look on the top
surface.
There’s no reason why, if you have access
to 1” thick oak or hickory, you couldn’t use
real slats like the original. Most of the con-trols
exit from top to bottom through areas in
the “spaces.” The only exception is the brake
equalizing assembly, which attaches in a slot
area. You would have to redesign a bit here.
To achieve the necessary “stiffness” in the
chassis, I had to add a 2x4 support to the bot-tom
side, left and right.
For those of you who would like to have a
real “motor wheel” power source, this run-ning
gear, with the chassis shortened a bit in
the rear, would still make a good platform to
attach your “wheel.”
I held off completing this set of plans until
the car had been driven in its intended pur-pose,
a parade. This was accomplished on the
4th of December ‘04.
Here’s the results: The steering is “go-kart”
quick with the 12” dia. steering wheel.
Once the driver is accustomed to it, no prob-lem.
All in all, the only thing I discovered
that I felt needed a revision was the flexibili-ty
of the wooden chassis, coupled with the
tremendous torque of the power train,
allowed the chain to jump a tooth or two
under extreme acceleration. The required re-educating
the throttle foot. Once the driver
was use to this, no problem. However, I have
added, in the drawings, addition supports to
stiffen up the area of the engine/power train.
2

Introduction
“Nothing is particularly hard
if you divide it into small jobs.”
— Henry Ford
“Before everything else,
getting ready is the secret of success.”
— Henry Ford
"Tattoo the above quotes on your brain" as
Ernest used to say. Better yet, paint them as
signs to hang in your shop where you can look
at them every time the going gets rough.
It was with this incentive that the manu-al
you're holding was done. With its nearly
200 different parts not even a simple cycle
car is necessarily easy. However, if
approached one part at a time, the job
becomes much easier.
Sometimes when you buy a set of plans for
a project such as this, all you get is a copy of
a magazine article or everything crowded
onto a few sheets of paper.
In this manual you will find a complete
drawing of each part — nothing is left for you
— no guess work! A lot of parts are simply a
piece of bar stock, angle or tubing cut to
length with one or more holes drilled in it.
This is not to imply that you can't go off
the beaten trail and modify or redesign to
your own desires. To do so is encouraged.
The idea that this horseless carriage could
be approached as a class project crossed our
mind. Since it utilizes several machine shop
operations, each student could be assigned a
few parts to do according to their ability and
skills. When completed, let the auto body
shop do the painting. Then drive in the home-coming
parade! The Industrial Arts Dept
wins, hands down!
The same could apply to friends or neigh-bors
who join together to build each a car
with different ones making all of certain
parts.
A few tools I consider a necessity (either
owning or having access to) and they are: a
cut-off saw, a drill press, a hand grinder, an
accurate square (combination & large carpen-ter's
square), a bottle of layout blue and the
means of accurately-scribing layout lines on
the stock. Always center punch all holes
before drilling.
When I began designing for this set of
plans, I followed the criteria of not using a
lathe or welder. I wanted to produce a simple
car that even a person with minimum work-shop
skills and equipment could build one.
Before you start making scrap iron, study
this manual and drawings. Obtain catalogs
from suppliers and if you have access to the
internet, look at and bookmark the suppliers
we have referenced.
Plan where you are going to work on your
car. Although desirable, a large shop isn't
necessary. Henry Ford utilized a coal shed for
3

his first horseless carriage, the Quadricycle.
And, while Henry said “plan ahead,” he even
had to knock out the existing door and add a
larger one just to get his car outside!
Visit your local steel supplier. Depending
on your location, you may have access to a
well-stocked supplier. If you live in a rural
area, look for a welding shop that might have
some scrap or be willing to order for you.
— What Tools Will You Need? —
Tools, while making any job easier, cannot
replace skill in the hands using them. The
list of tools that follows are what I consider
sufficient to build the “Red Bug.”
1. A good floor-standing drill press.
Includes a drill press vice and drill bit
set.
2. A quality table saw.
3. A good metal chop saw.
4. An electric hand drill (3/8)
5. A bellhangers drill bit (1/4)
6. A set of Forstner drills.
7. A hand jig saw.
8. A drum sander (either individual or
attachment for drill press.
9. A hand, belt sander is very useful.
10. A bench grinder or hand grinder for
smoothing metal parts.
11. A good tap and die set (both NC & NF)
12. A box of Band Aids!
— Start with the wooden parts —
It is only a suggestion that you start with
the wooden parts. The chassis is not unlike
the foundation when building a house. Since
most other components rely on it for align-ment,
care must be exercised when laying out
the various locations on the chassis.
Set the frame on a couple of saw horses.
Every time you enter your shop you will see
it and it will trigger your mind to the idea
that, "By golly I'm really building a car - from
scratch - by myself". "I wonder when the next
parade in town is." Also, since the chassis is
basically a 2 x 8 ft piece of 3/4 plywood, it
makes an excellent place to sit down and
make other small parts. Seeing you car take
shape is a thrill you'll never forget.
On the original Briggs & Stratton Cycle
Car, the chassis was constructed from six 3
1/2” wide boards of (I would guess) 1” thick
oak or hickory. If you have such available, go
ahead and substitute for the plywood I used.
I used a 2 x 8 sheet of 3/4 plywood and
added “phony” slats by gluing 3 1/2 wide
strips of 1/4 plywood to the top surface. I
found this arrangement to be a bit “flexible”
with a payload of 450 lbs. Therefore, a sup-port,
made from a 2x4, was added to each on
the underside.
_______________
The Original 1920 Briggs and Stratton Cycle Car
4

The Finished Cycle Car — “The Red Bug”
5

The Making and Assembly Processes
Let’s Make Sawdust First
I would recommend that all the wooden
parts be sawed out at the same time. This
will reduce the large sheets of plywood into,
smaller, more manageable pieces. In some of
the next pages you will find rough, cutout
dimensions.
Rip all similar width pieces at the same
saw setting. Start with the widest and pro-ceed
to the smaller ones.
You might consider finishing the seat,
cushion bases and seat support first and set
them aside for final painting.
You will note how the axles are made by
gluing pieces of 3/4 inch plywood together to
get the desired thickness. The front axle is
straight forward gluing together of 3 identi-cal
pieces. Whether you cut the profile of the
front axle in the individual pieces or after
gluing, is up to you.
Note how the rear axle has a dado (1 x 1)
to hold the 1” square axle tube at assembly.
You can come close to this dado by sawing the
filler pieces as shown. However, because of
the varying thickness of purchased plywood,
you will most likely have to “fine tune” the
dado for a good fit to the steel tube. This fit
should be close enough to allow epoxying the
tube at final assembly. The tube must be
flush to top surface of axle after assembly.
The bearing support blocks are, also,
made by gluing three pieces of 3/4 inch ply-wood
together. It might be wise to glue the
blocks as one unit, slightly oversize and then
sawing them individually after gluing.
The foot rest is, likewise, made by gluing
together two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood.
The fun piece is the steering shaft support
which, because of its shape, I call the “dog
bone.” Like the front axle, you might want to
saw the 2 individual pieces before gluing
together. A good drum sander is very useful
in the finishing of this part. Save the drilling
until after the gluing is done.
While I didn’t specify any corner round-ing,
I personally used a hand router and a
1/4” round over bit to make a lot of edges
“look pretty.”
I, also, spared a lot of little detail on the
wood parts because I find most people with
any degree of a home workshop will usually
have sufficient woodworking skills to suffice.
I recommend that any finished wood part
be left without paint at this time. You should
completely finish, assemble and test drive
your car and only then disassemble and
paint.
_______________
6
A city version of the Cycle Car was made
later, using electric power for use in large
estates as personal transportation.
It was call the “Red Bug.” We named ours
Red Bug, likewise.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
PLYWOOD CUTTING
SHEET - 1
PART NUMBER
007
SCALE
See Notes
7
foot rest
foot rest
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1
2. Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood - full 4 x 8 sheet.
4. Saw cut has been allowed for.
40 14
153
4
front axle front axle front axle
rear axle rear axle
CHASSIS
seat support front
rear axle
seat support front
seat support
side
seat support
side
24
3
5 1
4
24 22 1
2 15 3
4 15 3
4
22 1
2
31 3/4 31 3/4 31 3/4
4 14
3 1
2
38 3
2 12
3 3
4
96
48
seat support botton

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
PLYWOOD CUTTING
SHEET - 2
PART NUMBER
008
SCALE
See Notes
8
3 1
2 ( X6 )
2 1
2
floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6
floor slat x 6
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/4 Plywood - full sheet

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
PLYWOOD CUTTING
SHEET - 3, SEAT
PART NUMBER
009
SCALE
See Notes
9
16.00
8.00
1.75
17.00
Back
Side Side
Bottom
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood
44.00
17.00 17.00
40.00
48.00
Seat Back Strip
48.00

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHASSIS —
TOP VIEW
PART NUMBER
010
SCALE
See Notes
010
1 1
4
4 1
4 7 7
8
2 1
16
10 5
16
10 5
16
4 R
Hole Pattern "D"
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4” Plywood — Imitation Slats = 1/4” Plywood.
4. All hole dia’s to be 3/8” except those marked “x” which are 1/4”.
5. Some hole dia’s are called out on hole patterns.
6. See text for more drilling instructions.
7. Break all corners and sharp edges.
8. Finish: Choice of builder.
1 1
2 R
8
15 1
2
20
27
31 1
2
48 12
72
10 1
2
2 6 38
2 1
16
18 R
3 5
8
3 3
16
2 1
4
6 58
14
Center Line
Rear Axle
Center Line
Front Axle
96
10 (ref) 1
Hole Pattern "A" 1
Hole Pattern "B"
Hole Pattern "C"
Hole Pattern "E"
x x
x x
x
x
x x
x x
4
Center Line
of Chassis
2
3 Center on groove 20
*
*
*
*
Dims marked with ( * ) apply to both front and rear axle mounting holes.

PART DESCRIPTION
CHASSIS - TOP VIEW
SHEET 2
PART NUMBER
011
SCALE
See Notes
Copyright 2004 - Everett Moore
011
HOLE PATTERN LAYOUTS
Use dimensions given - Do not scale drawing.
38
DIA - 2 Holes
3
1
12
38
R
3 12
3
8 DIA - 2 Holes
38
R
1 38
3 1
2
1 1
2
3
6
38
R
1 3
8
1 3
8
38
DIA - 4 Holes
1 (ref) 2 places
1 1
2
1
4 DIA - 2 Holes
1 12
Cut relief to clear 1/4" flat washer
Cut thru 1/4" imitation slat - 2 places 2 (ref)
7
38
R
38 DIA (ref) 3 places
1 3
4
A
B
C
D
E

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BEARING MOUNTING
BLOCK
PART NUMBER
012
SCALE
See Notes
012
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood.
78
4 1
4
6
1
3
38
DIA
3 PIECES OF 3/4 PLYWOOD 2 HOLES
GLUED TOGETHER
APPROX. 2 1/4 INCHES

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
FOOT REST
PART NUMBER
013
SCALE
See Notes
013
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood. Glue 2 pieces together.
6
38
DIA - 2 Holes
36
1 1
2
1 R
3 R
1 1
2
6
1
1 1
2
7 3
4
3
20 1
2
3 R

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
FRONT AXLE
SUB - ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
014
SCALE
See Notes
014
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4 Plywood (3 pieces glued together)
2 1
2
4 1
4
2 1
4
78
1 1
8
Center Line of Chassis
10 5
16
2 1
16 2 1
16
10 5
16
2 1
4
7
8
3
8 DIA - 8 holes 2 1
4 (ref)
3 13
16 both ends
13 13
16 both ends
31 3
4
2 3
4 - 4 plcs
1" Dia. C'bore to depth shown - Typical 4 Places

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
REAR AXLE
ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
015
SCALE
See Notes
015
1 1
4 - Typical 6 places
Sq tube & plywood surfaces to be flush this entire surface
1 1
4 1 1
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4 plywood (3 pieces), 1/4” plywood (1 piece) Cut to dims shown.
1” square x .120 wall steel tubing - 34.750 long
4. Glue plywood pieces together as shown. When dry, epoxy steel tube in
to dimensions shown. Tube and plywood to be flush at top.
5. Plywood thickness can vary. Therefore it may be necessary to touch up the
1” dado on the table saw to make a snug but loose fit between steel and
wooden axle.
Center line 4
10 5
16
2 1
16 2 1
16
10 5
16
34
3
4
1 1
2
1 1
2 3
8 DIA - 4 holes
14 DIA - 12 holes
2 1
2
2 1
2
3 1
2
1 9
31 16 (ref - both ends) 3
4
34 7
8

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
STEERING SHAFT
SUPPORT
PART NUMBER
016
SCALE
See Notes
16
NOTES:
3. Material: 2 pieces of 3/4 plywood glued together.
4. Round over corners as shown.
1 14
2
1 1 12
58
DIA
3
4 Places
34
Typical both ends
4 Holes
1 R
12
R
1 12
2
5
14
1 1
4
38
DIA

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
SEAT SUPPORT
ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
017
SCALE
See Notes
17
15 3
4
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/4” Plywood.
4. Glue & screw together.
22 1
2
DIA - 2 Holes
24
7 7
8
20
38
2 2 (REF)
3 3
4
6
5 1
4
4 1
2

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
SEAT ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
018
SCALE
16 5
16
See Notes
18
4 R
NOTES:
15 3
4
40
4 R
o
8
1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing.
2. Material: 3/4 in. plywood.
3. Referring to this drawing and drawing XXX, cut two slots to accept corner brackets.
4. Fit parts - glue - reinforce with screws and corner brackets.
80°
44
15
16
1 1
4
2
15
17
Front corner top view
Typical two places
3 1
2
1 R

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
SEAT - REAR DETAIL
PART NUMBER
019
SCALE
See Notes
19
NOTES:
1. Cut two slots as shown. Use router preferably. However, multiple holes can be
drilled and connected with jig saw. Slot should only be wide enough to accept
the bracket. Prototype used 1/4 in.
2. Drill 1/4 dia holes thru seat back & arm rests and secure brackets with 1/4 - 20
bolts, fender washers and nuts. Place nuts on outside.
Cut slot thru seat back
to accept corner bracket
both sides
4 in corner reinforcing bracket
fasten to rear of seat, extend thru slot
fasten to outside of arm rest. ( 2 places )
Rear view of seat
Detail of seat back reinforcement

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
UNDER CHASSIS
SUPPORT - LH
PART NUMBER
020
SCALE
See Notes
20
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)
4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.
5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly.
10 18
11
12 3
8
3 1
2
1 14
1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep
69 5
8
1
18
R
3
16

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
UNDER CHASSIS
SUPPORT - RH
PART NUMBER
021
SCALE
1 1 DIA - C'Bore - 5/16 Deep
See Notes
21
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from 2 x 4 (1 1/2 x 3 1/2)
4. With 1/4” Dia router bit, cut key way as shown.
5. Mounting holes to be drilled at assembly.
1
10 18
11
12 3
8
69 5
8
18
R
3
16

The Making of Metal Parts
— Now Let’s Make Some Iron Filings —
If you haven’t already, you might want to
cut the 1” square tube to required length and
finish the rear axle per drawing No. 015.
Be sure to align your chop saw so as to cut
as near to 90 degrees as possible. I never
trust the marks provided and prefer to use a
square to do this.
I recommend cutting all bar stock and
angle parts to the required length at one
time. Next, remove any burrs and sharp
edges with a hand file.
To layout the hole locations, you should
have a small bottle of layout blue. You need
only apply it to the approximate area where
the holes will be. Accurately locate the holes
with a good square and scale. Scribe lines
with a scriber and center punch before
drilling holes.
When all holes are drilled, using either a
bench grinder or hand grinder, form the
radius’ called out on the drawings. These are
not critical and in some cases are more for
appearance than anything else.
One of the more difficult parts will be the
two hub mounting flanges, Drawing No. 034.
Layout and scribe the hole locations with
your square and compass or use the card-board
tool described in Drawing No. 035.
Using the appropriate tap drill, drill and
then tap holes per drawing. If you have never
used a tap before, do two things — 1) Use a
cutting fluid to lubricate the tap while cut -
ting (I use WD-40) 2) Every couple or three
turns of the tap, stop and backup a turn to
break the chip and free the tap again.
Don’t force the tap, back up, and go again.
Nothing will make a grown man cry quicker
than breaking a tap flush with the work, usu-ally
on the last hole of a nearly completed
part! Make an effort to start the tap perpen-dicular
to the the part.
After completing drilling and tapping, all
that’s left to do is cutting the center hole. In
sticking with my criteria established at the
beginning, I did this without using a lathe. Of
course, if you have a lathe, by all means use
it!
I used a 1-5/8” dia. metal cutting hole saw,
cutting half way on one side and turning the
part over and finishing from the other side.
Since the hole could be a bit smaller, if you
have a 1-9/16” dia saw or want to use a fly
cutter, use it.
The only tapped holes remaining are on
the chain tightener anchor blocks and the
tubular nuts (use in the steering shaft sup-port
AKA “Dog Bone.”)
All the techniques of tapping used on the
previous parts, apply here, also.
While into tread cutting, you might as
well cut the threads on three parts made
from round CRS. From your tap and die set
chose the appropriate die and die stock (the
handle that holds the die) and, after cutting
the rods to length, cut the threads per draw-ings
No. 038 and 039.
The remaining metal work entails modify-ing
a purchased part, such as cross drilling
and pressing in a roll-pin, drill and tapping
or, in one case, cutting threads with a die.
One part, the brake activator guide, Part
No. 041 requires drilling and tapping plus
pressing in two bearings.
Other modifications are self-explanatory
as per the drawing.
Now is a good time to examine all your
parts by comparing them to the drawing.
Remove any burrs found, de-grease and set
aside for the initial assembly process.
Only after making sure that parts fit and
function as intended, should they be de-greased,
primed and painted with the finish
of your choice.
_______________
22

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
FRONT SPINDLE
MOUNTING BRACKET
PART NUMBER
023
SCALE
See Notes
23
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/4 X 1-1/2 Steel Bar Stock.
.750
2.250
4.125
1 1
2 R
1 1
2
11
16
5 5
8
.375 DIA (2)
.625 DIA

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
DRIVE TRAIN
SUPPORT
PART NUMBER
024
SCALE
See Notes
24
NOTES:
3. Material: 1” x 1” x .120 wall Square tube.
25
1
9
32 DIA
12
Note: Used only if excessive flexing of the plywood chassis in the area of engine mount and jack shaft
is experienced. Install by raising engine (PP 215) and engine mounting plate (PP 250) and sliding
the two supports between wood chassis and mounting plate. Place as far apart as possible while
in contact with engine mounting bolts. Secure supports at front with 1/4” hardware. This may in-crease
the length of #35 roller chain required between torque converter and jack-shaft.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHAIN TIGHTENER
BASE PLATE
PART NUMBER
025
SCALE
1 16 7
See Notes
25
.375 DIA - 2 Holes
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/16 X 2” Bar Stock.
5
1.375
5
16
4.250 8
7
.250 DIA - 2 Holes
1
2 (ref)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
WASHER PLATES
A & B
PART NUMBER
026
SCALE
See Notes
26
38
1 1
4
2
9
32 DIA
1
5
12
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: See notation on drawing.
3. Material: 1/8 x 1 Bar stock.
1
Plate A - Qty = 4
Plate B - Qty = 2
12
15
16 3 1
8
38
DIA

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE LEVER
PART NUMBER
027
3
SCALE
See Notes
27
16
(ref)
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/4 X 1 Bar Stock.
4. Drill & bend as indicated.
.250 DIA
12
R
19 1
2
.312 DIA
Both ends
10°
5

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CENTER BRAKE
PULLEY MTG. BKT.
PART NUMBER
028
SCALE
See Notes
28
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 steel bar stock.
7
1 1 4.00
2
.250 DIA
2 Holes
34
1 1
2

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
OUTBOARD BRAKE
PULLEY MTG. BKT.
PART NUMBER
029
SCALE
See Notes
29
13
1 1
2 4.50 6.00
1 1 1
2
12°
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 Left Hand & 1 Right Hand.
3. Material: 1/8 X 1- 1/2 Steel Bar Stock
4. Twist bend as shown to allow brake cable to go under chassis board.
34
1 12
.250 DIA
.375 DIA
2 Holes
Twisting bend to be within this area
LH as shown (Qty 1)
18
R
RH to be mirrow image (Qty 1)
A =
B =

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE LEVER
MOUNTING BRACKET
PART NUMBER
030
SCALE
See Notes
30
34
2 1
2
2
12
3
4
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.
2
2
1
1 1
2
1
3
16 (ref)
.250 DIA
.312 DIA
.375 DIA - 2 Holes
18
R
2 HOLES
12
R

3 HOLES 5
Copyright 2005
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE ANCHOR
MOUNTING BKT - LH
PART NUMBER
031
SCALE
See Notes
31
.375 DIA
1 1
2
1
2
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 Angle.
2
5 3
4
78
12
14
R
12
R

Copyright 2005
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE ANCHOR
MOUNTING BKT - RH
PART NUMBER
032
SCALE
See Notes
32
.375 DIA
3 HOLES
1 12
12
1
2
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/16 X 2 X 2 angle
2
78
5
5 34
14
R 12
R

.312 DIA .375 DIA
2 Holes
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
THROTTLE MOUNTING
BRACKET
PART NUMBER
033
SCALE
See Notes
33
NOTES:
3. Material: 3/16 - 2 x 3 Angle or make from larger angle.
1
2
2
4
2
3
12
3
12
R
14
R

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
HUB MOUNTING
FLANGE - ALTERNATIVE
PART NUMBER
034
SCALE
See Notes
34
5/16 x 24 UNF
4 holes
Make from 3 1/2" Dia. Aluminum disc
McMaster-Carr No. 9035K17 - PP 248
NOTES:
3. Material: See drawing callout.
2.812 DIA
2.000 DIA
1/4 x 28 UNF
4 holes
1-5/8 DIA
3-1/2 DIA (ref)
.50 (REF)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CARDBOARD TOOL
WHEEL/FLANGE DRILL
PART NUMBER
035
SCALE
See Notes
35
3 1
2 DIA
2 13
16 DIA
*
NOTES:
3. Material: Cardboard such as on back of writing tablets, poster board, etc.
4. Cut stack of small disks to be snug fit in wheel bearing hole. (approx 1.375).
5. Glue stack of small disks concentrically on large disk. This stack must be
sufficient to firmly locate tool in wheel hub.
6. Make small pin hole at intersection of all 8 hole locations.
1 13
32 R
2 DIA
1 R
1 11
32 DIA
Location of pin holes
Typical 8 places

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHAIN TIGHTENER
ANCHOR BLOCK
PART NUMBER
036
SCALE
See Notes
36
1/4 - 28 UNF - 3 Holes
1.375
5
16
58
58
NOTES:
3. Material: 5/8” Sq. Bar Stock or Key Stock.
5
16
2
1

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
TUBULAR NUT
PART NUMBER
037
SCALE
See Notes
37
NOTES:
3. Material: 5/8 Dia CRS
58
DIA
5/16 - 24 UNF
34
1 1
2

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE ACTIVATOR
SHAFT
PART NUMBER
038
SCALE
See Notes
38
NOTES:
3. Material: .250 Dia. Cold Rolled Steel (CRS).
8.00
1 1
2 1
1/4 - 28 UNF - Both ends - Min. full thread as shown

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
TIE RODS - A & B
PART NUMBER
039
SCALE
See Notes
39
Tie Rod "A" = 7 in. Long
Tie Rod "B" = 23 3/8 long
3/8 - 24 UNF - Min 1-1/2" full thd - both ends
Make from 3/8 dia CRS
3/8 - 24 Nut (4 req"d)
3/8 - 24 Ball end - No. PP 203 (4 req'd)
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 “A” & 1 “B”
3. Material: Per drawing callout.
6. Assemble each Tie Rod with lock nut and ball end on each end. Screw on
far enough to keep together as a unit. Do not tighten until final assembly.

.125 dia - Press in 1/8" x 1" Roll Pin until flush opposite side.
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
PILLOW BLOCK
FRONT BOLT
PART NUMBER
040
SCALE
See Notes
40
1" (ref)
Center hole in bolt head
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 5” UNC bolt.
5 (ref)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE ACTIVATOR
GUIDE
PART NUMBER
041
SCALE
See Notes
41
NOTES:
3. Material: Per drawing callout. The builder has lattitude to utilize what ever
is on hand to build this guide.
5. Press bearings in flush with flange (both ends). The .250 hole thru bearings
must be aligned and free for movement of activator shaft. This may require
running drill through holes after assembly.
58
34
1 1
2
3" (ref)
1 1
4 (ref)
12
14
(ref)
1/4 - 28 UNF - 2 holes
.375 DIA - thru both ends
1 (ref)
PP 242
PP 243 (2)
14
DIA
See notes

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
1 1
2
Min full thd
3 (ref)
.250 DIA 1/4 -28 UNF
Make from No. 6065K131 Rod End Blank (McMaster- CarrP)P 244
BRAKE ACTIVATOR
LINK
PART NUMBER
042
SCALE
See Notes
42
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from PP 244 - No. 6065K131 (McMaster - Carr)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE BAND
ANCHOR BOLT
PART NUMBER
043
SCALE
See Notes
43
2 1
4
12 1 1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from 3/8 x 24 UNF bolt.
4. Cross drill .125 dia as shown.
6. Press roll pin thru bolt flush with opposite side.
1 in. before threads

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE BAND
ANCHOR PIN
PART NUMBER
044
SCALE
See Notes
44
1 1/8 x 3/4 Roll pin
12
NOTES:
3. Material: .375 dia. Cold rolled steel (CRS) or make from Cable Pins,
Part. No. 13663 (Northern Tool)
5. Press roll pin thru until flush with with opposite side.
38
(ref)
.375 DIA - CRS
.125 Dia.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
REAR HUB
MODIFICATION
PART NUMBER
045
SCALE
See Notes
45
4 holes, evenly spaced
on 2.000 dia BC
NOTES:
2. Material: Per callout on drawing.
3. Carefully remove bearing from one side.
5. Remove burrs after drilling.
6. Finish: Paint metal exposed by drilling. Color: Choice of builder.
Only hub is shown for clarity.
17/64 Dia.
Rear Wheel (Purchased Part No. 206)

Straighten shank
Remove & discard threaded pin
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
THROTTLE PEDAL
MODIFICATION
PART NUMBER
046
SCALE
See Notes
46
3
32 DIA
PP 245
Cut tang off as shown
5/16 Dia (ref)
7
32
14
1.75 (ref)
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from Azusa Part No. AZ1806 PP 245
5. Finish: It’s Zink plated - only touch up raw metal from alteration - any color.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
THROTTLE CONDUIT
CLAMP MODIFICATION
PART NUMBER
047
SCALE
See Notes
47
NOTES:
3. Material: Make from purchased part.
4. Bend tab as shown. This allows sufficient contact with wood to hold in
place.
5. Finish: None - already plated.
Make from PP 239
Bend tab up as shown

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
STEERING SHAFT
A & B
PART NUMBER
048
SCALE
See Notes
48
Make from PP 233
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 1 each.
3. Material: Make from purchased parts per drawing callout.
SHAFT "A" (1 Req'd)
SHAFT "B" (1 Req'd)
PP 232
15
12
24 (REF)

The Sub-Assembly Process
You will find that there are some parts
that can best be assembled as a sub-assembly
and then, be attached to the final assembly as
a unit.
A perfect example of this is the brake acti-vator
assembly as shown on drawing No. 050.
This unit is adjusted after final assembly,
to allow proper function of braking mecha-nism.
You will note how the brake cable is
threaded through the pulley of this sub-assembly.
This simple mechanism provides equal
application of braking force to both rear
wheel drums.
The next sub-assembly will be the two
chain tighteners per drawing No. 057. The
assembly is straight forward with the use of
1/4-28 UNF hardware per call out on draw-ing.
An all-thread bolt is made by the jamming
of 2 hex nuts on one end.
The next two sub-assemblies are a bit
more difficult. Referring to drawing No. 052,
you will see how the adapter, Part No. 034 is
attached to a rear wheel. While we only
power the right wheel, both wheels have
brake drums and require both rear wheels to
have this adapter attached.
Originally, we fastened the adapter and
wheel with 1/4-28 socket-head cap screws
and split lockwasher. However, after several
miles of parade driving, this loosened up on
the driven wheel.
Therefore, we now recommend that in
addition to the lockwasher, the threads be
coated with LocTite (Red), making a semi-permanent
assembly.
The inner bearing of the wheel had to be
removed for the drilling of the four holes as
shown in drawing No. 045. The bearing is not
replaced until after the mounting flange has
been attached.
Doing the above described assembly
requires working in very tight quarters. A
long, ball end allen wrench is used to insert
and turn the Allen Head screws from the
opening in the opposite bearing.
After applying LocTite, tighten all four
screws as tight as you can get them just short
of breaking the ball end off your wrench.
Hopefully, this is the last time you have to do
this.
With the two rear wheels thus done, you
might as well proceed to finishing up the rear
wheels by attaching the sprockets and brake
drums per drawing No. 053.
Having an unused sprocket on the left
rear wheel serves a purpose. At first we had
a large 1/8 thick disc between the left wheel
and the brake drum to assure the brake band
remaining in correct position.
Actually, we learned that making this disc
without a lathe was difficult and, if done by a
machine shop, would cost more that an extra
sprocket. Also, if you wanted to add a differ-ential
in place of the jack shaft, the driven
sprocket is there waiting for you.
Meanwhile, it serves the purpose of keep-ing
the brake band in place. It, also, serves as
a conversation piece. When someone, while
looking your car over, asks what that sprock-et
is for, tell them it is the sending or trigger
wheel for your anti-skid braking system!
The front axle can either be sub-assem-bled
separately or after it is attached to the
chassis board. I prefer the latter. In either
case it is depicted on drawing No. 054.
The jack shaft can, likewise, be loosely
assembled as a sub-assembly. See drawing
No. 061 for reference.
_______________
49

PP 214 (3)
PP 240 (3)
PP 241 (3)
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE ACTIVATOR
ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
050
SCALE
See Notes
50
1/4- 28 Hex nut (3)
NOTES:
3. Material: Per drawing callout
5. A compression spring can be added to area indicated to aid returning of
brake to off position. (Optional)
5. Final adjust of this assembly is done at final assembly.
Note: It may be necessary
to file clevis in this area
for free turning of pulley
Spring optional
PP 235 (1)
PP 214 (ref)
PP214 (ref)
041
042 038

036
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHAIN TIGHTENER
SUB-ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
051
SCALE
See Notes
51
NOTES:
3. Material: Per drawing call outs.
5. Finish: Previously finished.
1/4 - 28 Hex Nut
1/4 - 28 All Thread Rod - 2 3/4" Lg.
Make head by jamming 2 hex nuts
with J B Weld in threads.
1/4 - 28 x 3/4" C'screw & L'washer (2)
025

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
REAR WHEEL - FLANGE
SUB-ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
052
SCALE
See Notes
52
Part No. 045
NOTES:
3. Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.
4. Re-install bearing removed when modifying hub. Use new bearing if
original was damaged.
5. Finish: Finished prior to assembly.
1/4 X 28 - 5/8 Long Socket Hd Capscrew (4 req'd)
Only hub is shown for clarity.
Part No. 034
1/4 Lock Washer (4 req'd) - Apply LocTite (Red) to threads.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
REAR WHEEL ASS’Y -
SPROCKET & DRUM
PART NUMBER
053
SCALE
See Notes
53
5/16 x 24 UNF - 7/8 Long Socket Head C'Screw
5/16 Lock Washer
4 each req'd
NOTES:
2. Material: Per callout on drawing.
3. Finish: Parts are pre-finished at assembly
Sprocket - PP No. 218
Northern # 1363 (54 tooth - 41 pitch)
Brake Drum - PP No. 223
Northern # 1366 Wheel Sub-Assembly Part No. 052

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
FRONT AXLE
ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
054
SCALE
See Notes
54
023 (4) 014
NOTES:
5. Finish: Parts to be finished before assembly.
6. Add 3/8 fender washers to lower spindle brackets as necessary to obtain
proper fit of spindle.
PP 202
PP 228 (2)
PP 201
PP 228 (2)
Adjust spacing between brackets, if needed, by placing large, fender washers
between lower brackets and wood.

The Assembly Process
— Lets Build a Car —
I recommend that, before painting any-thing,
you completely assemble your car and
test drive it. Don’t use lock nuts this time —
merely use regular hex nuts and lock wash-ers.
Trailer it to some area where you can
safely drive it around a bit. If you have a
problem, now is the time to find out.
Once you’re satisfied, completely disas-semble,
clean all the metal parts with
Acetone or other good de-greaser and paint
the color of your choice. My car was finished
with gloss black on the metal parts and
bright red on the wood.
On the final assembly, use nylon lock nuts
every where possible. Where not possible, use
LocTite (blue). There’s a lot of unfelt vibra-tion
that can loosen hardware and ruin the
entire parade for you.
I have not specified the exact lengths and
sizes of most hardware as it should be self
evident. When attaching parts to wood, the
wood tends to crush under the load of tight -
ening the bolts. Hence, the generous use of
large, fender washers is advised. Build all the
sub-assemblies first. Follow the instructions
on the specific drawing.
Now, with the chassis board upside down
on saw horses, assemble the front and rear
axles, and proceed with the attachment of all
parts noted on Drawing No. 058.
From the pictures to the right you see an
amazing amount of parts and hardware uti-lized
in this “simple” car!
You will use quite a bit of the hardware
while working on the underside. However, be
prepared to “box it up” when it becomes nec-essary
to turn it over and assemble on the top
side.
Attach both front and rear axles at this
time. Referring to drawing No. 058 and pho-tos
on page 56, attach as many of the parts
shown on the next page as possible. Noting
the direction of the bolts you made with the
55
The upside down chassis board makes an
excellent place to pile parts and hardware -
until you need to assemble from the top
side!

56
Photo No 1 - Throttle cable routing under
brake equalizer assemble. Note how the
cable is held in place with 3 clamps, Part No.
047.
Photo No. 2 - Throttle cable makes its exit to
top side through hole drilled at an angle that
will prevent any restriction to throttle wire
movement. Held in place with clamp, Part
No. 047.
Photo 3 - Attachment of throttle wire to foot
pedal with “Z” bend in end of wire. Note the
cable being held with another clamp No.
047. An extension spring has been added to
assist throttle returning to idle.
Photo No. 4 - This shot shows the brake
equalizer and how the brake cable is thread-ed
to reach the outer puller and finally to
brake band.
Photo No. 5 - Detail of how throttle wire ter-minates
at engine. A modified “Z” bend
matches the existing hole in throttle arm
while Clamp, part No. PP 239 attaches to
existing threaded engine hole with 10-32 x
1/2 socket head cap screw. An additional
spring added to assist return to idle.
Photo No. 6 - Throttle cable emerges from
just behind seat support.

roll-pin protruding from the head, install
through proper hole in both outboard brake
pulley mtg. brackets, Part Nos.029A and
029B. Leave bolt loose at this time. With the
roll-pins pointing forward, the two chassis
supports, Part Nos.020 and 021 can be posi-tioned
in place. The Foot rest, part No. 013
can be installed from the opposite side and
loosely bolted in place.
Continue to refer to assembly drawing No.
058, which shows the proper location of most
parts under your car.
While the tie rod assemblies are shown on
this drawing, it is best to wait until the steer-ing
shaft, part No.048A has been installed
before attaching the tie rods.
When you are satisfied that the bottom
mounted parts have been installed as far as
possible, turn the chassis over, revealing the
top side (with slats). You can now mount the
seat support. Note: while not called out on
drawing, I placed four large diameter rubber
washers under the seat support (about 2” in
from the four corners. When the mounting
bolts are tightened, the rubber washers are
captivated. Since the chassis flexes under
changing terrain, this allows some “float”
between the two parts.
Make sure the seat support does not inter-fere
with the throttle cable. Check to insure
free movement of the throttle wire.
Before mounting the jack shaft assembly,
it is best to semi-assemble it before hand.
Leave all setscrews loose. Refer to Dwg.062.
You should have a bolt protruding up on
both sides of the chassis. Drop both bearing
support blocks, part Nos 012 over these holes.
Next install the chain tension adjusters, part
No.051 over the protruding bolt. Refer to
drawing Nos 062 & 063 for detail and orien-tation
of the adjusters.
You can now carefully lower the jack shaft
assembly onto the support blocks as shown
on assembly drawings No.059 and No.062.
Install the second bolt up through the chassis
support, chassis, bearing block, chain
adjuster and through the elongated hole in
the pillow block. Use as many heavy, flat
washers under the nuts securing the pillow
blocks, as possible.
Referring to drawing No.062, locate the
large sprocket that connects to the engine, in
the center of the clearance slot cut for it. Do
not tighten any sets screws yet.
Before continuing with the jack shaft, it is
necessary to mount the rear wheels.
However, this is even a better time to mount
the brake band anchor bolts (with the roll-pin).
See the brake band installation draw-ing
No.064 for details.
To install engine, refer to drawing No. 059
and 060. On the prototype the engine was
bolted directly to the chassis board with an
engine mounting plate, No. PP 250 separat-ing
the engine from the wood.
Actual tests indicated that addition stiff-ness
was needed. Therefore, engine supports,
drawings No. XXX and XXX were added.
They are installed between the wood chassis
board and the engine mounting plate.
You will note, by observing the picture on
page 5, how a 1/4” pipe nipple and elbow was
used to extend the engine’s oil drain plug rear
and downward, to enable easy oil changes.
57

040
Roll pin
pointing forward
026A
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY -
BOTTOM VIEW
PART NUMBER
058
SCALE
See Notes
58
NOTES:
2. Parts locate per previously drilled holes.
4. Assemble per intructions in text.
PP 236
054
039A
039B
010
023
046
PP 238
PP 239
047
020
050
021
028
PP 235 (2)
029A
PP 235
029B
PP 235
040
Roll pin
pointing forward
015
026A
026B (2)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY -
TOP VIEW
PART NUMBER
059
SCALE
See Notes
59
013 027 (See Notes)
030 (2)
017
NOTES:
2. Parts locate per previously drilled holes.
4. Assemble per intructions in text.
5. Slip bicycle handlebar grip onto brake lever to improve grip.
065
215
216
Attach brake actuator ass'y (below)
with 1/4-28 x 1" capscrews & fender
washers. Bolt head must not interfer
with seat support (017).
Secure with LocTite (Blue)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHASSIS ASSEMBLY
SIDE VIEW
PART NUMBER
060
SCALE
See Notes
60
PP 212 (2)
PP 229 (2)
PP 204 (2)
Mtg. flange included with 048B
067
NOTES:
1. Dis-assemble pillow blocks No. PP 204 and re-assemble with oil cup out
side instead of top hole. This will allow extreme movement of bearing
necessary to match angle of steering shaft.
2. Position the steering shaft to clear front axle by 1/4” and secure in place
with Collars PP 212 and Bearings PP 229.
3. Attach seat to support with 2-1/2” removable pin hinges (2)
Direction of throttle cable
048A
PP 234
048B
PP 226
PP 227
016
037 (4)
018
For detail see drawing 061
068
See notes
14
(ref)

PP 210 (typical)
211 (typical)
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
TIE ROD - STEERING
SHAFT ASS’Y DETAILS
PART NUMBER
061
SCALE
See Notes
61
NOTES:
1. Assemble as shown.
2. End of steering shaft to be 1/4” from front axle.
2. Use shim washers as shown to premit maximum tie rod travel.
3. Secure nuts with LocTite (blue)
PP XXX (typical)
PP XXX (typical)
Apply LocTite (Blue) 2 places
2 places
1/4

PP 220
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
JACKSHAFT
ASSEMBLY
PART NUMBER
062
012 PP 225 (Cut to dimension shown) 012
SCALE
See Notes
62
NOTES:
3. Material: Per drawing call out.
5. Finish: n/a
PP 205 (2)
PP 213
051 (2)
PP 219
PP 213
PP 217
PP 213
PP 213
30

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
CHAIN TIGHTENER
INSTALLATION
PART NUMBER
063
SCALE
See Notes
63
Front of car
Grease fitting to rear
3/8 Lock Nut
& double flat washers
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: Typical 2 places.
2. Balance of Jack shaft assembly shown on drawing No. 062.
PP 205
PP 225 (ref)
057 (ref)
012 (ref)

Copyright 2005
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
BRAKE BAND
INSTALLATION
PART NUMBER
064
SCALE
See Notes
64
PP 224 (2)
NOTES:
1. Quantity required per car: 2 (left and right)
2. Loosely assemble anchor bolt (043) at this stage. Final adjustment are
made to it and brake cable after rear wheels are mounted.
3. Secure brake cable with standard clamp from hardware store.
4. Roll-pins of parts 043 and 044 are positioned approximately as shown.
031 (Left )
032 (Right )
043
044

PP 247 - 1/8 shim washer (as needed)
Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
AXLE - HUBCAP
DETAILS
PART NUMBER
065
PP 246 - 1/32 shim washer (as needed)
See notes about axle length
SCALE
Attach entire assembly to axle with 5/32 cotter pin
See Notes
65
NOTES:
Suggest using 2 at first.
Wheel
PP 206
1. Use dimensions shown. Do not scale drawing.
2. Axle = 3/4 dia CRS cut oversize (48”) - Push axle thru axle tube on frame - Install shim
washers and 1 wheel as show above - Install 1 hub cap, cross drill, install cotter
pin - Install shim washers and 2nd wheel - Allowing extra length for hub cap,
cut off - Install hub cap - cross drill - Install 2nd cotter pin.
3. Add or remove 1/32 shim washers to allow wheels to turn freely without excess-sive
end play.
Make from 1/2 in pipe cap
Drill out to 3/4 dia. - cross drill 5/32 dia.

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
DRIVE TRAIN SUPPORT
INSTALLATION DWG.
PART NUMBER
066
SCALE
See Notes
66
NOTES:
1. Quantity per car: 2 (If required)
2. Material: Per drawing call out.
024 (2)

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
SEAT CUSHION BASE
PART NUMBER
067
SCALE
See Notes
67
Section A - A 4:1
7 14
21
35 1
2
A A
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (4) - PP 249
5. Finish: None.
6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material
stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mounting
holes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it.
11
14
1 1
2
5/16 dia
C'bore 1" dia 1/16 deep
Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flush
Typical 4 places

Copyright 2004
Everett Moore
PART DESCRIPTION
SEAT BACK
CUSHION BASE
PART NUMBER
068
SCALE
See Notes
68
Press 1/4 - 20 "T" nut flush
Typical 3 places
Section A - A 4:1
A A
NOTES:
3. Material: 1/2 inch plywood - 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 “T” nuts (3) - PP 249
5. Finish: None.
6. Suggest using 2 in. of foam covered with appropriate upholstery material
stretched tight and stapled in back. Be sure and not cover up the mounting
holes. Alternate: Take to an upholstery shop and let them cover it.
7 1
2
3 3
4
32
16
5 12
43
4 R
1 R
5/16 dia
C'bore 3/4" dia 1/16 deep

Vendor Code = FB Foley-Belsaw
P.O. Box 419593
Kansas City, Mo 64141
1-800-821-3452
Vendor Code = G * W. W. Grainger, Inc.
Website: www.grainger.com
Vendor Code = McC ** McMaster-Carr
Website: www.mcmaster.com
Vendor Code = MS Manufacturer’s Supply
P.O. Box 167
Dorchester, WI 54425
1-800-826-8563
Website: www.mfgsupply.com
Vendor Code = NT Northern Tool & Equipment
1-800-556-7885
Website: www.NorthernTool.com
Vendor Code = SEW Small Engine Warehouse
765-768-6725
Website: www.smallenginewarehouse.com
Vendor Code = GKG Go-Kart Galaxy
1-903-340-1965
Website: www.gokartgalaxy.com
Vendor Code = AS Aircraft Spruce & Specialty Co.
1-877-477-7823
Website: http://www.aircraftspruce.com
* W. W. Grainger has outlets in most larger cities. You need to contact the one closest to you.
Look in a phone book for a larger city near you.
** McMaster-Carr has several locations. They have such a user friendly website that the
easiest way to order from them is on the internet.
Always check our website: www.smallcarplans.com for links to the latest in suppliers.
69

PP No. Qty Description Vendor Code Catalog No.
201 1 Spindle, RH MS AZ2518
202 1 Spindle, LH MS AZ2519
203 4 Ball Joint, 3/8 - 24 MS 10-2214
204 2 Pillow Block, 5/8” Bronze G 2X529
205 2 Pillow Block, 1” Ball Bearing NT 1805
206 4 Pneumatic Spoked Wheel, 26” NT 145123
207 Removed
208 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .031 McC 3088A433
209 10 Shim Washer, 5/8 X 1 OD X .125 McC 3088A513
210 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .062 McC 3088A466
211 10 Shim Washer, 3/8 ID X 5/8 OD X .125 McC 3088A511
212 2 Collar, 5/8 ID MS AZ8554
213 4 Collar, 1” ID MS AZ8565
214 4 Clevis, 1/4 - 28 MS AZ8354
215 1 Engine, B&S - 5.5 hp Intek SEW 126312
216 1 Torque Converter Ass’y NT 1377
217 1 Sprocket, #35 - 60 Tooth NT 1361
218 2 Sprocket, #41 - 54 Tooth NT 1363
219 1 Sprocket Hub NT 138291
220 1 Sprocket, #41 - 15 Tooth - 1” Bore McC 6280K534
221 10 ft. #35 Roller Chain NT 136410
222 10 ft. #41 Roller Chain NT 136510
223 2 4” Brake Drum MS 4-485
224 2 4” Brake Band w/pin MS 4-486
225 1 Steel shaft with Keyway 1” OD x 36” McC 1497K102
226 1 12” Steering Wheel MS 4-9396
227 1 Steering Wheel Cap Assembly GKG 1877
228 4 King Pin Bushing (nylon) MS AZ8215
70

229 2 Bronze Bushing - 5/8 ID - 3/4 OD x 1 Lg McC 6391K243
230 2 Connect Link - #41 Chain McC 6261K192
231 2 Connect Link - #35 Chain McC 6261K191
232 1 24” Steering Shaft w/o pitman arms welded MS AZ1868-24
233 1 22” Steering Shaft w/ pitman arms welded MS AZ1867-22
234 1 5/8 x 5/8 Coupling SC 1320-0016
235 5 Control Cable Pulley AS A-124
236 15 ft Control Cable - 3/32 x 7x19 AS 05-04000
237 100 ft Throttle Wire FB 5960245
238 1 Throttle Wire Conduit FB 5960247
239 Pk of 10 Throttle Wire Conduit Clamp FB EGR5979510
240 3 Clevis Pin MS AZ8355
241 3 Cotter Pin MS AZ8419
242 1 Spindle Bracket MS AZ8171
243 2 Bronze Bearing - 1/4 ID - 3/8 OD Flanged McC 6338K413
244 1 Rod End Blank McC 6065K131
245 1 Throttle Pedal MS AZ1806
246 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/32 McC 3088A434
247 10 Shim Washer, 3/4 ID x 1 1/8 OD x 1/8 McC 3088A514
248 2 Aluminum Disc, 3 1/2 OD x 1/2 thick McC 9035K17
249 7 Tee Nut, 1/4 - 20 x 5/16 High McC 90975A025
250 1 Engine Mounting Plate MS AZ8190
71

Building The
1920 Briggs & Stratton
Cycle Car

19069321 red-bug-complete-plans-set

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