2. INTRODUCTION
Consumers are increasingly demanding natural
ingredients and additives in cosmetic products, as
well as the replacement of synthetic compounds
with possible negative effects on health and the
environment.
The search for better cosmetic products has
prompted the development of multifunctional
cosmetic formulations .
Oxidative stress is considered to be the primary
cause of aging and a wide variety of human
disease. Oxidative stress plays an important role in
skin aging, especially extrinsic skin aging. This
phenomenon is caused by reactive oxygen species,
while prolonged exposure to UV light diminishes
the antioxidant capacity of the skin.
3. Anti-oxidants are preservatives with the function of
preventing lipid oxidation of the product. They enhance
the ability of cells to defend against the free radicals,
thus reducing oxidative stress.
Bleaching agent is a material that lightens or whitens a
substrate through chemical reaction. They usually involve
oxidative or reductive processes that degrade color
systems.
Many research groups have demonstrated cosmetic
formulations combining inorganic(TiO2) and organic UV
filters with vitamin derivatives and botanical extracts
display enhanced anti-oxidant activity and increased
protection against UV radiation.
Bleaching agents and anti-oxidants both are used in
cosmetics to protect the skin against UV radiation, aging
and discoloration.
4. ANTI-OXIDANTS
Anti-oxidants are substances that delay, prevent or inhibit oxidation of
other compounds or neutralize free radicals.
Anti-oxidants are capable of reducing the causes or effects of oxidative
stress. They terminate the free radical chain reactions by removing free
radical intermediates, and inhibit the oxidative reactions.
Oxidative stress plays an important role in skin aging. This phenomenon is
caused by Reactive Oxygen Species(ROS).Thus multifunctional cosmetic
products have come into action.
In particular, combining sunscreens with vitamin and vegetable extracts
culminates in anti-oxidant and protective effects that improve skin
appearance and prevent damage caused by UV radiation and oxidative
stress.
5. FUNCTIONS:-
Anti-oxidants protect lipids and oils in
food against oxidative degeneration.
They protect the skin by UV radiation
and aging.
They retard the formation of toxic
oxidative products.
Maintain nutritional quality.
Extend the shelf-life of products.
Natural anti-oxidants are very useful
because of their safe use. Thus they
can be used as preventive agents for
some health issues.
6. MECHANISM OF ACTION
Inducing the biosynthesis of
other antioxidants or defense
enzyme.
Suppressing the formation of
active species.
Reducing hydro peroxides and
H2O2.
Sequestering metal ions.
Scavenging active free radicals.
Repairing/cleaning damage.
8. PHYTOANTIOXIDANTS
Natural anti oxidants are compound found in food consumed without much
processing such as fruit,vegetable,nut etc.
9. POLYPHENOLS
They are class of compound that have
antioxidant capacity and are found
widely in plants.
Inhibition of melanogenosis is
observed.
Proanthocyanidins or procyanidin exist
in red wine and cranberry juice and
grape seed.
Ellagic acid is another natural
polyphenols that is widely found in
fruit and vegetable.
10. FLAVANOIDS
CATECHIN
Also called as
Roanthocyanidines.
They include flavanol,
flavan-3-ol.Major
catechins are catechin
,epicatechin,epicatechin
gallate(ECG)
Catechins inhibit lipid
oxidation.
12. CAROTENOIDS
They are group of isoprenoid
synthesized by plants and
microorganisms.
Most of them have long carbon
chain skeleton with series of
conjugated carbon double bond.
Carotenoids include
lycopene,lutein,alpha-carotene
and beta-carotene.
13. APPLICATIONS
The carotenoids are used as
anti-oxidants in various
cosmetic products like
oils,shampoos,cream,lotion
etc.
They remove the upper layer of
old, dead skin and stimulate
the growth of evenly
pigmented new skin.
Carotenoids are also used in
hair care products as
smoothening agents.
14. ANTHOCYANINS
Natural color pigment of fruit and
vegetables. They are novel anti-
oxidants.
Dried mulberry(Morus alba)
leaves(85% ethanol extract) has its
main constituent Mulberroside
which is anthocyanin .
This compound exhibited
superoxide scavenging activity that
involved in protection against auto-
oxidation,suggesting a role for
Morus alba as a component of
lightening cosmetics.
15. VITAMINS
RETINOL(vitamin-A)-It is obtained from diet either as
preformed vitamin A or provitamin A carotenoids. Preformed
is ingested as long-chained fatty acids of retinol in food such
as butter,eggs,milk,fortified cereals. Provitamin A carotenoids
is found in vegetables, such as carrot,spinach,pumpkin.
ASCORBIC ACID(vitamin-C)-Widespread in plant tissues. It is
gamma lactone of simple sugar. Its antioxidant activity
depends on the capacity to bind to metal ions.
TOCOPHEROLS(vitamin-E)-Widely distributed in plant
tissue,vegetable,animal fat,cottonseedoil.
16. APPLICATIONS
VITAMIN-E
VITAMIN E has antioxidant
properties.
VITAMIN E has photo
protective properties.
Vitamin E strengthens the
skin’s natural barrier, reducing
water loss.
It helps your skincare products
last longer.
17. APPLICATIONS
VITAMIN-C
Vitamin C powder is reputed to help enhance the skin by
addressing problems with texture and discoloration as
well as any irritation.
It is traditionally applied to cosmetics preparations to
regenerate and strengthen collagen, to balance the tone,
to calm inflammation, to boost the complexion’s natural
radiance, to smooth the appearance of wrinkles and fine
lines as well as other signs of aging.
It helps to minimize the appearance of discoloration,
especially dark spots and undereye circles, by
encouraging their fading. In doing so, it helps to revitalize
the skin’s natural, healthy brightness for a more
rejuvenated appearance.
18. APPLICATIONS
VITAMIN-A
Acne: Retinoids are considered effective for treating and
controlling acne. Retinoid have anti-inflammatory
properties. They also help to regulate the sloughing off of
skin cells, reducing the occurrence of clogged pores.
Fine lines. Topical retinoids stimulate collagen
production, making them effective at reducing the
appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. They can also help
to even out skin tone by fading age spots.
19. SYNTHETIC ANTI-OXIDANTS
Are phenolic compounds produced artificially .Examples
are Butylated hydroxy anisole(BHA),butylated hydroxy
toluene(BHT).
Used in vegetable oil, baked and confectionary products,
cosmetic.
IDEBENONE
Idebenone is a fine orange antioxidant powder that was
originally used medically during organ transplants as it
prevents their oxidation.
“Idebenone is a very powerful antioxidant that’s found
throughout the Prevage line,” explains Dr Dendy
Engelman, a dermatologist, cosmetic and skin cancer
surgeon in New York City.
20. It was first used medically but
was later found, through
topical use, to protect skin
cells from environmental
damage.
This is due to its potent
antioxidant behavior that can
improve skin’s appearance –
from diminishing the
appearance of fine lines and
wrinkles, to reducing dryness,
and improving skin texture.
21. BLEACHING AGENTS
• Discoloration is an aesthetic problem for
direct tooth-colored restorations or skin
problems.
• MECHANISM: Principle of peroxide
degradation into hydrogen peroxide or its
compound carbamide peroxide(unstable
free radicals) which are further
decomposed into large pigmented
molecules either through oxidation or
through a reduction reaction.
• The changes induced by bleaching in the
characteristics of composite resins such as
color, surface hardness and roughness and
staining susceptibility.
22. ARBUTIN
• Arbutin is a naturally occurring derivative of hydroquinone
found in the leaves of cranberry, bearberry, and blueberry
shrubs, most types of pears, and many other plants.
• Arbutin protects the skin against damage caused by free
radicals and is a skin whitening agent.
• Arbutin also inhibits the formation of melanin pigment by
inhibiting Tyrosinase activity.
• Low concentrations have no effect, while high
concentrations of about 5% or more can be as irritating as
hydroquinone and may potentially result in unexpected
hyper pigmentation (darkening).
23. KOJIC ACID
• Derived from fungus, kojic acid
inhibits the catecholase activity of
tyrosinase, which is the rate-limiting,
essential enzyme in the biosynthesis
of the skin pigment melanin.
• It is a recent remedy for the
treatment of pigment problems and
age spots, but it is very unstable.
• Upon exposure to air or sunlight, it
can turn a strange shade of brown
and lose its efficacy.
24. GINKGO BILOBA
• This extract is used is an anti-aging
cosmetic product due to its
composition rich in
flavonoids(rutin,quercetin,kaempferol),
biflavones and terpenoids related to its
anti-oxidant and anti-inflammatory
action.
• Glycolic extract standardized in
quercetin obtained from leaves of
plant.
• They show potent free radical
scavenger activity when applied to
skin. Ginkgo flavones glycosides,
mostly quercetin and kaempferol
derivatives can inhibit tyrosinase
activity by chelating copper in enzyme.
25. LIQUORICE EXTRACT
• It has several active
compounds that may
stimulate or suppress
melanogenisis.
• Glabridin,the main ingredient
inhibits tyrosinase activity.
• Glabridin,licuriside,isolicuiriti
n and licocalchone A are
some constituents of liquorice
that cause depigmentation.