This document provides a company profile for AVS Creations Pvt Ltd, an Indian garment manufacturing company. It details the company's address, leadership, market focus, factory layout, product mix, design and development process, major customers, and key departments like merchandising and product development. The factory has production facilities spread across four floors and handles fabric sourcing, cutting, washing, finishing, packing and quality control. The company works closely with international fashion brands and retailers to produce a wide range of apparel.

1. COMPANY PROFILE
COMPANY NAME AVS CREATIONS PVT LTD
ADDRESS HR- 36/A, 60 FOOTA ROAD SOHAN LAL
ARG PUL, PRAHAI, NEW DELHI-110044
TELEPHONE
FAX
E-MAIL GPCA.CA2004@GMAIL.COM
YEAR ESTD. 2012
OWNER MR. HARINDER SINGH & MS PUSHPA
SINGH
DIRECTORS MR. HARINDER SINGH & MS PUSHPA
SINGH
MARKET 100% EXPORT
IN HOUSE/FABRICATION/BOTH BOTH

2. FACTORY LAYOUT
1. BASEMENT
a. Fabric Testing Lab
b. Fabric Store
c. Accessories Store
d. General Store
e. Cutting/CAD/CAM
2. GROUND FLOOR
a. Reception
b. Conference Room
c. Personal Department
d. Human Resource
e. Production Floor
f. Finishing Department
g. Packing
h. Machine Maintenance Department
i. Washing Section
3. FIRST FLOOR
a. Production floor
b. Finishing
c. Packing
d. Quality control
4. SECOND FLOOR
a. Merchandising
b. Product development

3. c. R & D
d. Production plan & control
e. Sampling
f. Export documentation
g. EDP(Electronic Data Processing)
h. Accounts
i. Surplus fabric & accessory store
PRODUCT MIX
AVS Creations Pvt Ltd uses a wide array of fabrics to create distinct styles for its buyers.
From naturals (cotton, linen, silk, wool) to synthetics (viscose, polyester, polyamide) and
their blends, various fabrics are handled with the care they demand. Looking at the growing
buyer demands and the fast pace at which fashion moves today the firm has developed a
diverse and futuristic product mix.
HOW THEY CREATE
Work at AVS Creations Pvt Ltd happens very closely with the fashion forecast the design
team visit a no. of fashion forums, seminars and exhibitions like the premier vision, heimtex
etc. the designers are stationed in the US as well as UK who constantly feed with retail
information, retailing trends, market share analysis, brand evaluation and other retail
information.
Apart from the keen interest they take in making the products, they also try to induce what
India as a source can offer in terms of embroideries, hand work, light weight fabrics and the
various accents of our culture as an inspiration.
Their range has a wide array of fabric from natural - cotton, linen and wool, silk to synthetics
– viscose, polyester, polyamide, blends, microfibers and much more.
Apart from the constant feed of the fresh concepts in the product mix, there products also
have a distinct genre of style complimenting individual buyer needs. They were very closely
with the buyers design team and satisfy the certain buyer beyond expectations.

4. OTHER FACILITIES
In house comprehensive washing facilities for all kinds of washing, like enzyme, bleach,
caustic, acid wash, ice wash. Sand blast/faded effect and AZO free overdyeing in house.
MAIN PRODUCTS
High fashion and basic garments covering all segments:
 Ladies: Dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, blouses, scarves, jackets etc.
 Kids: dresses, Skirts, trousers, tops, scarves, jackets, shorts and overall etc.
 Men: shirts, shorts, pants, jackets etc.
SPECIALISATION
Denim wear, prints, embroideries, cut works appliqué and other intricate trims and
embellishments; basically all form of value addition, novelty washes and quick turnaround
time.
TYPES OF FABRIC
All types of Indian and imported woven fabrics viz. cotton viols, cambric, poplin, twill,
corduroy, dobby’s/jacquards, canvas, denim, viscose/rayon, linen, nylon/polyester, madras
plaids etc.
MAJOR OVERSEAS CUSTOMERS
USA: Aeropostle, American eagle outfitters, Anthropology, American Rug, Belk
International Inc., Benetton, Bonton, Club Monaco, CSI industries, DDP (France), Disney,
Explosion, Forth & town, GAP Men’s outerwear, GAP women denim division, GAP women
out let, Gymboree, INC men’s, Urban outfitters, Wool rich, Old navy, Karan scoot, Material
London, JMC, Mervyns.
EUROPE: J.Jill, Diesel, Calvin Klein, Top shop, Next, We. CANADA: Eatons, Hudson
Bay, Marmaxx, Sears Roebuck & Co. AUSTRALIA: Country Road. UK: Laura Ashley,
GVS, Freeman’s, Grattan

5. WORK FLOW
BUYER
PRODUCT DEVELOPER
MERCHANT
SAMPLING
FABRIC
MARKER PLANNING
SPREADING
CUTTING
BUNDLING & TICKETING
RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
PRODUCTION
WASHING
FINISHING & PRESSING
PACKING & FINISING

6. PRODUCT DEVEVELOPEMENT
This department is not buyer specific and work for all the buyers that company caters to. The
major role of department is to getting business for the company. Foundation of all other
departments, it
assists in converting their ideas into reality.
First interaction of the buyers is with PD department, but in some cases PD is directly done
by the merchandising department, there is showroom for meeting as well as presentation for
new development/line adoption to buyer, Samples/mocks developed are just for style and
design purpose and measurement do not play a major role. If buyer select any of their style
then further development will be done by PD department, once order is been booked further
follow up and communicating regarding that style will be the responsibility of the concerned
merchandiser.
CLASSIFICATION
PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT
INTERNAL
DESIGNING
OWN DESIGN LINE
INSPIRATIONAL
EXTERNAL
DESIGNING
TECH PACK

7. INTERNAL DESIGNING
Design development done in house. Product development is done on the following basis:
MOCK OR SAMPLES WILL BE PREPARED FOR SELECTION
IF SELECTED THEN MEETING SAMPLES WILL BE MADE
COSTING AND NEGOTIATIONS
SALESMAN SAMPLE
GRADING
ORDER CONFIRMATION
PASSED BY MERCHANDISER THEN FOR PRODUCT
DEVELOPMENT

8. EXTERNAL DESIGNING
LINE ADOPTION WITH BASIC DETAILS
SAMPLES WILL BE MADE (2 Pcs)
APPROVAL/COMMENTS
BUYER SENTS A TECH PACK
THEN AGAIN PROTO SAMPLE MADE (3 Pcs)
FIT SAMPLES MADE (3Pcs)
APPROVAL/COMMENTS
BUYER WILL SENT FIT SAMPLE SPECIFICATIONS
SIZE SET ARE MADE
APPROVAL
REVISE FIT OR SEALER SAMPLE IS MADE
ORDER CONFIRMATION

9. IMPORTANT TERMINOLOGY
 PCD (Plan cut date)
 GPT (Garment package test)
 FPT (Fabric package test)
 CUT OFF DATE
 GREEN TAG SAMPLE (means
production sample)
 YELLOW TAG SAMPLE (means
sealer sample)
 WINDOW DATE
 PPM (Pre-production meeting)
 Minutes of meeting (for any
important discussion related to any
particular issue)
TYPES OF SAMPLES
 Proto sample
 Costing meeting sample
 Catalogue sample
 Salesman sample
 Fit sample
 AD sample/photo shoot sample
 Sealer sample
 Preproduction sample
 Reference sample
 Resample TOP sample
 Pilot run sample
 Size set sample
 Testing sample
 Named above are the different
types of samples used by different
buyers
A TECH PACK CONTAINS
 A pictorial representation of the
garment
 Make up details
 Sample size
 Fabric type
 Colour of fabric
 Placements of buttons, zippers,
embroideries etc.
 Garment description
 Style number
 Date sent
 Date required
 Supplier name
 Season or phase
 Fabric sample

10. MERCHANDISING
Merchandising or merchandise means commodities or goods dealt in by merchant. A
merchant is the person who acts as a link between a buyer and vendor; he is the one who is
central or integral part of a garment industry.
Merchant is a trader, an exporter or importer of a garment he is basically a employee of a
vendor’s company who is being responsible to the buyer and coordinate the full
manufacturing process of garment right from getting the order, approving the design,
ordering fabric, cutting, production and up to the shipment of the order i.e., he is the whole
sole of the company. Thus a merchant is a fulcrum of the organization, which involves
coordinating and follows up against tight schedules. He/she has to take care of quality,
delivery on time and simultaneously the price of garment and due to which the merchant is
liable for some percentage in the company profile.
MERCHANDISING ACTIVITIES
 Receive detailed information from buyer like style details, fabric type, quality and
fiber content, trim requirements and quality, color details and various other details
like washing, printing, embroideries etc.
 Make proto types, coordinate with research & development team, find fabric costing
and initial costing, send sample with price code and various other job works at
sampling stage etc.
 Receive the PO and accepted L/C, amendments if any, confirm price, category,
delivery schedule and the required lead time etc.
 Get the approval for samples and trims, prepare the time and action calendar, prepare
the fabric and trim indent.
 Coordinate with R & D and I E for further detailed R & D reports; coordinate with
PPC for production planning, send order status to the buying office at every stage.
 Call for the production meeting, prepare the production file and take care of budget at
each stage.

11. Another important task for merchandiser is lot approval so therefore from every roll and lot
swatch is taken firstly, it is observed in-house and then dispatched to buying house for
approvals and after approvals cutting go head will be given to the factory.
Denim approvals are taken in blanket pattern and approved samples will be used in packaging
Merchandiser has to do the entire above task for each style but before starting, merchant has
to do costing and plan the whole process from fabric ordering till ship cancel date and it is
called as Time and action calendar (T&A Calendar).
Before starting the costing for a style merchandiser should consider the following:
 Fabric consumption
 Labor Expenses (Calculated with
the help of SMV)
 Thread Consumption
 Trims and Accessories cost
 Margin
 Exchange Rate
 Finishing
 Packaging
 CMP (Cut Make Pack)
Merchandiser prepares two T & A Calendar, one external for buyer and supplier which is
compactly prepared to get approvals from buyer and to receive ordered fabric and
trims/accessories to get on-time deliveries, from suppliers in house and other T & A is for
Internal working for prompt working for style.
Simultaneously merchandiser works with shipping department for banking vessel and other
mediums for transporting shipment till vessel and export documentation for preparing
necessary document for custom clearance and payments and also for importing fabrics and
accessory. At same time Account Department assist for payment

12. PROCESS FLOW OF MERCHANDISING DEPARTMENT
TECH PACK COMES FROMTHE BUYER
INITIAL SAMPLING AND COSTING
GET ORDER FROMTHE BUYER
ORDER CONFIRMATION
BUDGETING
INTERNAL
MATERIALINDENT
(TRIMSDETAILS)
FABRIC PROGRAM
(FABRIC DETAILS)
LOT APPROVAL
WITH BUYER
RE SAMPLE/PROTO TYPE
APPROVAL
FIT SAMPLE APPROVAL
FPT APPROVAL PP SAMPLE
TOP SAMPLEAPPROVAL
SIZE SET SAMPLE
APPROVAL
SHIPMENT INSPECTION
AND FINAL SHIPPING
GPT SAMPLE

13. MERCHANDISING FILE OF A STYLE INCLUDES
 Order confirmation
 Purchase order
 1st lab dip/comment
 2nd lab dip/comment
 Approved colour standard
 Important communications
 Final GSS and BOM received
 1st approval/comments
 Revised GSS
 2nd approval/comments
 Revised GSS
 Approved fit and comment
 Size set samples
 Sealer/comments
 PP samples
 Initial bulk against approved lab
dip
 Lot comment and approved
 Trim
 Approved trim card
 Costing
 Budget
 Test report (Trim, FPT, GPT)
 Fusing
PRIMARY RESPONSIBILITIES OF MERCHANDISER
 Chase for fabric/trims prior to PCD date
 Size sets/PP/TOP samples-Monitoring and delivering
 Coordinating buying agency QA Inspection
OC GENERATION
OC stands for ORDER CONFIRMATION, is an internal document and should be generated
by concerned merchandiser against PO within 24-48 hrs of order confirmation from buyer. It
is information as well as an alarm to all departments that company has received an order.
OC includes the following information:
 Purchase Order (PO) Number
 Delivery Date
 Quantity
 Fabric with tentative consumption
 FOB

14. PURCHASE ORDER
PO is an external document which is issued by buyer in the name of Modelama Exports; it is
an evidence as well as support of order confirmed in the favour of company.
PO includes the following information-
 Delivery Date
 FOB
 Ship cancel date
 Destination
 Ship mode
 Terms of sale
 Currency
 L/C
 Quantity
 Size break up/color Break up
FABRIC PROGRAM (FP)
It is an internal document issued to fabric department, for sourcing the required fabric
required for the style.
MATERIAL INDENT
It is an internal document issued to Accessory Department, for sourcing the required
accessory and trims for style.
INTERNAL BUDGET
It is the internal document of the company which is a deviation between the actual costing
given to the buyer and company’s costing.
MODELAMA uses EDI software for downloading:
 PO’s
 DCPO’s
 CD’s (for price tickets and shipment tickets)
Buyer directly sends PO on this software and the merchandisers further follow it accordingly.
Until company receives any written mail from buyer merchandisers will take no action.

15. PCD DATE MONITERING
PCD date should be followed by head right from the order confirmation, production manager
can refuse to take the file from concerned merchandiser if the PCD date slides drastically and
unit manager approach to management if concerned merchant tries to put pressure on unit,
but if a particular style has been taken over by unit head then the deliverance of style in terms
of quality/ deliver date has to meet by unit head.
PAYMENT TO VENDERS
It is a policy of the company that all the venders such as fabric/trim suppliers, embroidery job
workers, handwork contractors, finishing job workers would be done after shipping of a
particular order and the payment would be done only of the actual shipment quality.
COSTING
The most important function of the merchandising department is to calculate the total cost of
garment. It is the job of the merchandiser to estimate the initial cost correctly and also
negotiate the cost of production with the buyer before he sends his PO. The costing should be
such that it suits the buyer and also the export house. At the pre-production stage initial
costing is done so as to get an idea of the cost likely to be incurred. This cost includes raw
material cost; manufacturing cost, washing cost, make up cost, overhead expenses and the
margin of the company. After the buyer has placed his order and production sample is
approved then the final costing is done. The final costing uses fabric average from CAD, cost
of fabric & trims etc.
A cost sheet includes:
 Buyer’s name
 Style
 Garment
 Quantity
 Budget
 Fabric description

16. Total cost fabric includes:
 Greige fabric cost
 Brushing
 Calendaring
 Cartage
 Dyeing/printing
 Embroidery
 Washing
 Finishing
 Shrinkage
 Freight
 Wastage
 Average consumption
 Total fabric consumption
Accessories cost includes:
 Main label
 Wash care label
 Price ticket
 Tags
 Cartons
 Poly bags
 Stitching threads
 Embroidery threads
 Beads, sequins, elastic, mobilon tape
etc.
Totalcostof a garment:
 Fabric cost
 Accessories cost
 CM (cost of manufacturing)
 Dyeing
 Embroidery
 Fabrication
 Finishing
 Packaging
 Beads, sequins
Costof company:
 Margin
 Overheads
 Quota
 Shipping cost

17. SAMPLING
A sample is a proto type of a product to be manufactured in future course of production. It is
also called mock-up of a product and is made to check the design effectiveness and fit of the
garment. Sampling is a set of procedure follows to produce various sample style. It contains
activities like making of pattern for proto type according to measurement of produce sample
with the help of machinery and getting buyers approval for the sample produce.
In an export house, the sampling department laced a vital role in the up lifting of a unit. This
department directly coordinates with the merchandising dept. and production dept. sampling
is done to see how the product will look like when produce in bulk and to check
discrepancies in the pattern are. Patterns are made according to the buyer specification.
STEPS OF SAMPLING:
PROTO TYPESAMPLE MADE
FIT SAMPLE MADE
PP SAMPLE MADE
TOPSAMPLE MADE
SIZE SET MADE
SHIPMENT SAMPLE MADE

18. MACHINE DETAILS IN SAMPLING DEPARTMENT
LINE
S.NO. M/C TYPE MANUFACTURER 1 2 3 4 5 TOTAL
1 S.N.L.S TYPICAL 9 15 14 15 3 56
2 S.N.L.S KING SPL 6 2 3 0 2 13
3 S.N.L.S BROTHER 11 3 0 0 0 14
4 S.N.L.S KATT SPL 0 0 0 0 3 3
5 D.N.L.S HIGH LEAD 0 1 0 0 1 2
6 D.N.L.S PEGASUS 0 0 0 0 1 1
7 O/L 3 TOYOTA 0 0 0 0 1 1
8 O/L 3 TYPICAL 0 0 1 3 0 4
9 O/L 5 BROTHER 0 1 0 0 0 1
10 O/L 5 TYPICAL 0 0 0 1 0 1
11 KANSAI 0 0 0 0 3 3
12 3 NEEDLE C.S 0 0 0 1 0 1
13 BARTACK BROTHER 0 0 0 0 1 1
14 F.O.A 0 0 0 0 1 1
15 EMBRODIERY FRIEND 0 0 7 0 0 7
16 SPL M/C GOLDEN WHEEL 0 0 1 0 0 1
17 SPL M/C TREASURE 0 0 1 0 0 1
18 MAINTAINENCE 0 3 0 1 0 4
TOTAL 26 25 27 21 16 115
FUNCTIONS
Two main functions of sampling department are:
1. To cater the buyer
2. New development
1. TO CATER THE BUYER

19. In this method first a Tack-Pack or a GSS (Garment specification sheet) is given by the buyer
and then on the basis of this GSS patterns are made by the pattern master. With the help of
these patterns fabric average is calculated and then by adding other cost also costing is send
to the buyer. On the basis of this costing buyer places an order. Once the order is placed the
sampling department starts producing samples. These samples are then sending to the buyer
through merchandiser for his approval as per the sequence shown in the above flow chart.
2. NEW DEVELOPMENT
In this method the designer of the company develops a new design. Before developing a new
design forecasting is done. By this forecasting we come to know that which color,
embroidery, type of fabric, silhouette, texture etc. will be like by the fabric in upcoming
season. This design is also according to the country and season. This new design is then send
to the buyer and if buyer likes the design, he may place an order of the same design or with
some modification in the new design. Once the order is placed by the buyer, the sampling
department starts producing samples. These samples are sending to the buyer in a particular
sequence as shown in the above flow chart.
FABRIC SOURCING
Sourcing deals with getting information about material from different sources and then
selecting the best material which suits over budget and buyer’s specification.
Fabric sourcing means souring the right kind of fabric which fulfils the buyer’s
specifications. Fabric sourcing department is quite important as more than 90% of garment is
fabric and approximately 70% cost of garment is due to the fabric.
Selecting the right quality of fabric as per the buyer’s specification otherwise it may lead to
cancellation or rejection of the whole order given by the buyer. The fabric sourcing
department gets the fabric sample from the vendors. These samples are tested before sending
to buyer for approval. After the buyer approves the sample, the fabric is ordered for bulk
production.
TYPES OF FABRIC

20. 1. KNITTED FABRIC
2. WOVEN FABRIC
These two kinds of fabric can be further classified as:
 Yarn dyed fabric
 Solid dyed fabric
 Printed fabric
YARN DYED FABRIC
To impart color in a fabric, it is either died after weaving or first dyeing of the yarn is done
and then interlacement of these yarn results in a coloured fabric.
The fabric in which we dyed the yarn first and then weave the fabric is called yarn dyed
fabric. The yarn dyed fabric are generally in the form of checks, stripes etc.
SOLID DYED FABRIC
Solid dyed fabrics are the fabrics which are first manufactured on the loom and thereafter
dyed but the coloring agent can’t be applied directly to the griege fabric. To apply color
griege fabric is first processed through different processes like de-sizing, bleaching etc. these
processes are done so as to make the fabric appropriate for dyeing.
PRINTED FABRIC
Printed fabric are the fabrics which obtained by printing a bleached fabric/dyed fabric or
these fabrics are the fabrics having different or varied print in which a base fabric either dyed
fabric or bleached fabric is printed by various printing technology.
Steps followed for fabric purchasing:
 Market trends enquiry
 Vendors-folders in-house swatches
 Display to buyers
 After approval from the buyer swatch is send for the sampling yardage (5-10 meter of
fabric)

21. Documents used in sourcing department: FP (Fabric Program)
 Fabric description
 Accessories
 Plan Cut Date
 Delivery Date
PROCESS OF GENERATING FABRIC PROGRAM
FPO (Fabric Purchase Order)
 Fabric description
 Supplier name
 Date of PO
 Delivery date
 Rate
 Transportations (Logistic)
 Fabric Purchase Order number
 Payment
 Cancel date
FPO also tells about the type/quality of fabric whether it is yarn dyed, dyed, printed, or greige
fabric.
ORDER CONFIRMATION
TENTATIVE AVERAGE
ORDER ACCORDING TO THE TENTATIVE
ORDER PIECES
FIRST WORKING
FINAL AVERAGE
FABRIC PROGRAM

22. JPO (Job Process Order)
a. Processor’s name
b. Date of PO
c. Delivery Date
d. Fabric description
e. Logistic
f. Rate
g. JPO no.
JPO also gives information about the process to be done on the fabric like embroidery,
dyeing, printing etc.
SUPPLIERS OF MODELAMA EXPORT HOUSE
1. Yarn dyed- South India, Arvind, Imported
2. Knits- Ludhiana, Delhi
3. Cotton- All around India
4. Wool- Imported, Amritsar, Ludhiana, Panipat
5. Silk/Poly/Viscose- Banaras, Bangalore, Surat, Ahmedabad, Mumbai
6. Linen- Indian Rayon, Imported
7. Velvets/Jacquard- Panipat
8. Greige- Coimbatore, Salem, Erode, Bhiwandi (Mumbai)
9. Leno/Dobby/Textured- Bhiwandi, South India
10. Processing- Bhilwara, Panipat, Faridabad, Jaipur, Ahmedabad, Mumbai
11. Embroidery- Manesar, Mumbai, Amritsar
FABRIC STORE
Fabric storehouse is the actual area where the fabric for production is receive or dispatched
for processing. Beside storage the fabric store department is also responsible for the
inspection of the goods receive by it.

23. PROCESS FLOW OF FABRIC STORE
FABRIC DISPATCHED FROMSUPPLIER
FABRIC RECEIVING
GRIEGE
FABRIC
SEND IT FOR
PROCESSING
BACK TO INHOUSE AFTER
DYEING OR PRINTING
SOLID/YARN
DYED/PRINT
ED
100% CHECKING (4 POINT SYSTEM)
METER CHECKING BY SECURITYGUARDS
LOT MAKING AND SEND IT TO THE MRCHANDISING
QUALITY CHECKING FOR DEFECTS
KEPT IN STORE

24. STORAGE
Rack system of storage is followed i.e. fabric packages are stored in the racks in two areas:
1. Checked fabric
2. Unchecked fabric
They are further segregated on the basis of style no. and lot wise. The fabric is put in rack
with the help of Fork Lift and pallets. Such a systematic maintenance of the store makes it
easy to make the fabric whenever needed in future.
ORDER PROCESSING AND FABRIC IN-HOUSE:
The merchant receives the purchase order from the buyer. On the basis of this purchase order,
the fabric sourcer prepares a ‘requisition’ for the fabric as per the demands of the buyers and
raises it to the fabric vendors in the market. The best deal and the vendor are finalized and the
order is placed. The factory may send the yarn from the store to the fabricators for fabric
production, buy greige for dyeing or directly order the processed fabric to the vendors. Once
the fabrics development receives the approval for the fabric, the vendor sends it in form of
lots within the specified time period and the fabric is made in house in the fabric store. About
5% extra goods are supplied by the vendor.
The fabric via transport trucks comes in various packages like rolls, book fold, open width
etc. The packages are unloaded on conveyor belts (500 kg capacity) with take them to the
weighing machine. Each consignment comes in with an invoice having details like quantity,
colour, GSM, and weight. The goods are weighed and other details are reconfirmed before
they are store.

25. FLOW FOR ORDER PROCESSIG:
RECEIVE PO FROM
MERCHANDISER
PREPARE A FABRIC REQUISITION
RAISE THE REQUISITION TO
VENDORS
SOURCE OUT THE GOODS
FINALIZE THE VENDORS
PLACE THE ORDER
RECIEVE SHADE APPROVAL
SEND GOODS FOR DYEING
RECEIVE DYED GOODS
SEND YARDAGE INTERNAL TESTING
SUBMIT FOR BUYER'S APPROVAL FOR
COLOR AND QUALITY
FIRST LOT IN-HOUSE
LAB TESTING
SUBMIT FOR
APPROVAL TO
MERCHANT
APPROVED
RE-
APPROVED SEND FOR
REDYEING,
WASHING
ETC
LAB DIPS PREPARED AT
DYEING UNIT IN NEAREST
SHADE
SEND LAB DIPS FOR SHADE
APPROVALBY THE BUYER
BULK FABRIC IN-HOUSE
READY FOR ISSUE

26. FABRIC INSPECTION
For the purpose of inspection of fabric, four point system is followed which allots different
points for different lengths of defects. The defects are marked by different stickers as shown
in the following table:
POINTS LENGTH OF DEFECT COLOR OF STICKER
1 0 to 6” Green
2 3” to 6” Yellow
3 6” to 9” Blue
4 9” to above Arrow sticker
Total points per 100 square yard are calculated. Different types of fabrics have different
passing points. They are as follows:
 Grey Fabric – 20 points / 100m
 Power loom fabric 44 points / 100m
 Imported / mill made fabric – 25 points / 100m
The inspection is carried out manually. The following is the infrastructure for inspection.
 12 tables to check the fabric manually with the provision or 4 tube lights horizontal to
the table.
Every defect encountered is marked with an arrow sticker. A fabric checking report is filled
which gives the details about the defects found. After the checking is done the fabric is
repacked in large poly bags and graded according to the standards set by the company. The
grades are as follows-
‘A’ CLASS No defects, fabric can be used.
‘B’/ MENDED CLASS Defects are present but under acceptance
level, can be mended to first class by
subsequent processing, fabric to be cut with

27. care.
‘C’ CLASS Fabric to be negotiated with supplier.
‘D’ CLASS Rejected, defects are present beyond
acceptance level, fabric to be not used.
NOTE:
1. Lots will be prepared.
2. Checking as per the norms of buyer.
3. In case there is ‘C’ and ‘D’ category in passed lot, will rechecked again and
rechecking report need to be made.
4. Lab report along with fabric checking report will be given to fabric merchant as well
as merchandiser.
5. No fabric issue to cutting without QA sign.
6. Knit fabric check in Kilograms.
7. Formula used = 3600*Defects points
Length*width
MACHINES IN FABRIC DEPARTMENT
FABRIC CHECKING MACHINE: This machine is used for any type of fabric rolled,
checking defects and check fabric length and width. Mostly used for grey fabric.
FOLDING MACHINE: This machine is used for folding the fabric in one meter.
DOCUMENTATION
Fabric store has huge documentation work as well. Bar coding has lent a helping hand and
eased the task of record keeping. Nevertheless, following records are also manually
maintained:

28. 1. Stock register for information about the stock present in the store at a given rate.
2. Receiving register for information like fabric receive from where, when and in how
much quantity.
3. Issuing register for information regarding the fabric issued to the dyeing mills.
4. Checking register for information about the rolls inspected, GSM, tube width, faults
and no. of rolls approved and passed.
5. GSM recorded register for GSM of all the fabric rolls is stored in the house along with
the swatches.
6. Fabrics checking report, which states the type and no. of defects and weather the roll
is rejected or pass.
7. Pending checking status report maintained on daily basis for information regarding
the rolls that are pending for checking.
TESTING LAB
Garments are made from fabric with the help of sewing threads and a no. of accessories like
button; laces, ribbons etc. are sewn on them. All these things used to construct a garment
have uncertain characteristics i.e. how they will behave in conditions like washing, sunlight,
heat etc. when used by the customer. Any undesirable changes in the fabric, thread or the
trims would detract the aesthetic value of the garment and decrease its utility before time.
Thus it became necessary to check or test the characteristics of all these components under
conditions to which they are susceptible to change or get damaged. Fabric and trims are
tested for their quality, durability, colour fastness, dimensional stability and physical know
how. Goods are produced from the suppliers only when the lab tests results confirm that they
comply with the standards or requirements of the buyers.
The buyers are also specific about the test method that has to be followed. AATCCC and
ASTM are two American standards that are used in the lab. AATCC (American Association
of Textile Chemists and Colourists) standards are given primarily for all colour fastness and
dimensional stability. ASTM (American Standard for Testing Materials) covers all the
physical tests.
ISO (International Standard Organization) is a European standard, which covers the colour

29. fastness tests and the dimensional stability tests.
Modelama has its own in-house fabric testing laboratory equipped with all sophisticated
instruments as per AATCC and ISO standards where tests on fabric, garment and trims are
conducted. There are separate dry, wet and chemical testing areas in the lab along with a dark
room for colour matching.
BASIC WORK FLOW
Testing lab receives the fabric to be tested along with a test request form either from the
fabric sourcing department or the fabric store (or garment from quality
assurance/merchandising departments). This form contains all the details like buyer name,
style, sample description and vendor. A swatch of the fabric to be tested is passed on the form
and tests to be conducted are specified. Depending on the no. and type of tests to be carried,
fabric yardages are sent to the lab (almost 1⁄2 mtr to 2 mtr)
Testing is done on the behest of buyer and it is the buyer who specifies the test to be
conducted. Fabric sourcing department coordinates the communication and testing activities.
Each buyer has its standard acceptance levels in testing. He may require testing to be done at
a specified testing laboratory or one nominated by the buyer itself.
Once the fabric is received for testing, it is allowed to relaxed, condition and acclimatizes to
the standard temperature and humidity maintained in the laboratory for at least 2-4 hrs. a
variety of test are conducted on the condition samples but some of the tests like that of
washing, crocking, rubbing, dimensional stability, count, fabric construction, GSM, content
etc. are necessarily carried out for every fabric/garment.
ACCESSORIES STORE
Accessories store as the name suggests is a department, which acts as a storehouse for
accessories. It is the place where all the accessories required in an export house, are stored.
Right from sewing threads, needles to packaging material like poly bags and taps etc. all are

30. stored in the accessories store.
The merchandiser as per buyer specifications orders the purchase dept. to buy the accessories
that are used in a particular style of that buyer. Merchandiser prepares a swatch card
containing all the accessories and their quantity required in a cycle. These accessories used in
the swatch card are as per the quality and colour mentioned and approve by the buyer. The
purchase dept. with the help of swatch card prepared by the merchandiser purchases the
required quantity of accessories. The accessories are purchased 10-15% extra then the
required, as the wastage in case of accessories is more. The receiving dept. then receives
these accessories from the vendors and then checking and testing of these accessories are
done. They are checked for quality and colour. The accessories like buttons are tested with
the help of button snap tester. After all the accessories are checked and tested as per buyer’s
specifications then an accessories approval card is prepared.
After the accessories are received they are stored in the accessory store. The accessories are
stored in different racks. The accessories of a single buyer are stored in one rack but the
different accessories are stored separately from each other in the same rack. The accessories
store also houses the stationary required in the export house.
Now, whenever the production starts the accessories required in production are issued to the
production dept. through an internal channel. A stock register is used for maintaining records.
Thus an accessory store function as a store house for accessories where all the accessories are
assembled and kept and also issued to the sampling and production dept. for the garment
manufacture.

31. WORK FLOW OF ACCESSORIESSTORE
ACCESSORIES/TERMSORDERING AND THEIR APPROVAL
 Thread ordering and approval: For ordering threads, merchandiser has to match
the color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric with the shade card of the
suppliers company. If not matched then lab dip for thread will be done. Thread
approval is taken through thread runs. Thread run means running of different thread
options matching with the color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk fabric
used for production.
 Button ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, color, finish and
quality should be matched with color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk
fabric.
 Zipper ordering and approval: For ordering button, its line, color, finish and
quality should be matched with color standard or approved lab dip or initial bulk
fabric.
Merchandiser prepares swatch card
Swatch card is send to the purchase department
Accessories purchased by purchase department
Accessories recieved by recieving department
Testing of accessories is done
Storing of accessories in accessory store
Issuing accessories to the sampling and production

32.  Hanger and sizes ordering and approval: These are ordered according to the
buyer’s sizes.
 Poly bag and carton ordering and approval: Poly bags are ordered according to
the length, width and height of the garment and cartons are ordered as mentioned in
PO and DCPO
 Labels ordering and approval: As labels are of different types, so it should be
ordered according to buyers requirement only wash care label is ordered after G.P.T.
 Zipper ordering and approval: For ordering zippers, its teeth width, tapes quality
and colour and important elements should be matched with quality and colour
standard or initial bulk fabric.
 Other accessory ordering and approval: Other accessory like fusing, twill tapes
shoulder pads, price tickets and hang tags ordered as other are done.
RESEARCH & DEVELOPMENT
R&D and IE are two separate departments working for the same aim i.e. increasing the
production of a company with minimizing the cost.
Various tasks performed are:
 To check that product is production feasible or not before sending final approval to
buyer.
 Line balancing.
 Calculating thread consumption.
 Time study.
 Creating operation breakdown.
 Find out SMV.
 No. of machine.
 Helpers required.
 Sketching layouts for production.

33.  To find out the efficiency of the individual operator and line.
 Calculating daily efficiency of the unit.
 Co-ordination with PPC for improving the efficiency.
 Fix the target production.
 Decide the type of machine and work aids attachment required for particular
operation.
 Machine breakdown.
 To monitor hourly production.
 Hourly line tracking status.
R&D lends hands in the following:
 SMV (Standard Minute Value) per operation and garment
 Thread consumption
 Operation breakdown/Operation bulletin (OB)
 Making production feasible, viable as well as friendly
 Saving cost
Any garment or order received through specimen or GSS is send to R & D department. The
garment or GSS is then analysing by the expert team to see the viability of the order and also
to advice ways of executing the order. An operation bulletin is prepared on the basis of which
SMV is calculated by using GSD (Garment Sewing Data).

34. PROCESSFLOW OF IE DEPARTMENT
Receiving sketch/garment from
market
Construction Enquiry-Sampling
Department
Calculate SMV
Product Friendly Solution
Merchandising
Department
Production planning
Production Cost Production Planning
Technical Analysis
before Fit Stage-
Suggest Amendments Merchandising
Department
Incorporate in Sampling
Start Thinking
Innovation
Tool Room
Receive Sample for Thread
Consumption
Make Operation Bulletin &
Calculate Thread Consumption
Merchandising
Department

35. Receive Red Tag Sample Thread Order
In Depth Study of Style &
Construction
Depth Customized
Folders (Innovate) Total Room
Prepare operation
bulletin
Prepare R & D Report
Update SMV & Finalize report
Factory IE Discuss & Collects
Prepare Workstation
Layout
M/C & Work Aid Requirement to
Maintenance
Line Setting According to
IE Reports
Procure from Maintenance
Capacity Check Analysis &
Feedback
R & D Analysis &
Feedback
IE Department
Production studies to Increase Efficiency
Production Studies to
Increase Efficiency
Production Studies to increase
efficiency
Achieve Targets

36. Industrial engineering department working is divided floor wise. All the floors of the 105,106
have individual IE person sitting on the each floors. Working of the IE department is to
follow up the OB (operational bulletin) and setting up of the line according to the OB. IE
department creates the OB with the use of the GSD (general sewing data).
MACHINE MAINTENANCE
Apart from having quality system and the best practices, ‘machine maintenance’ is also a
very important area to get ‘quality’ products. Unacceptable quality of products often results
from ill- maintained machine. Breakdown and preventive maintenance is primarily aimed
toward reduced downtime and increase life respectively proper machine maintenance is also
necessary to avoid causalities at the floor. The function of PREVENTIVE MAINTENANCE
includes:
 Care of the fitting
 Adjusting settings
 Oil changing
 Out ward/inward reports
 Machine configuration charts
 Needle movement chart
 Laser stock
 Needle log cards
The fabric used the percentage of needle time, the speed of machine and operator handling
are the factors, which determine how often the machine requires cleanings. On the floor, the
maintenance shop has a maintenance card for each machine, listing the data a mechanic
serviced the machine, who serviced it, what was done to it and why. A series of similar
repairs occurring sooner than normal would signal maintenance that something is radically
wrong with the machine or that the machine is being misused by the operator and the matter
is checked out immediately. The general procedure for preventive maintenance of sewing
machines involves the following steps:
 Remove the face plate and clean it.
 Remove the needle plate clean the feed dog.
 Remove the belt guard and clean it.
 Adjust the V- Belt tension.
 Tight the (Z) stand and thread stand.
 Check the oil lubricating pipe, if any damage replaces it.

37.  Check all the timings and adjust it.
Control panel cleaning:
 Clean the PC Board with soft brush. Do not clean with blow air or use suction device.
 Clean the synchronizer properly.
 Keep the sewing table clean.
 Do not allow anyone to put the sticker on the table.
The maintenance schedule is carried out floor wise. Every production floor is provided with a
team of two mechanics, one assistance and one helper, which take care of the day to day
maintenance, break downs and settings of the machine. Whenever there is a breakdown of the
machine on the floor it is immediately shifted to the maintenance department and the same is
replaced with new machine from the stock so that production is not disrupted. Oil checking is
done on weekly basis and changing of the oil and servicing of the machines is done every
three months.
A workshop in this department caters to the need of new making new folders, guides and
modifying other attachments as developed by the R & D department for better production. It
is also the ‘operation theatre’ for the machines.
Machine maintenance also carries the purchase and receiving activities. Its purchase action
has track of every inventory including a needle present in the factory stock and procures new
inventory whenever needed. Stock register is maintained with discipline.
CAD DEPARTMENT
CAD stands for Computer Aided Design. It is one of the most important departments of
export house. This department acts as a “Service Department” for merchandising, sampling
and cutting department. The working of these three department is highly depends upon CAD
department. Without CAD it is very difficult for these departments to move ahead.
CAD system involves any type of design activities which use of computer to develop analyse
or modify any engineering or garment design.

38. PROCESSFLOW OF CAD
REQUIREMENTOF CAD
For Merchandising Department:
 Costing- CAD gives the costing to merchandising dept. means it gives the average
fabric consumed per garment. It is calculating by placing the pattern pieces of two
medium size garments in the fabric. Costing depends upon type of fabric and buyer
requirement.
 Fabric order booking- After calculating the average fabric consumed per garment,
calculation for the total fabric required is done accordingly. To the no. of garments to
be manufactured. After this calculation order is placed.
 Tracing pattern for buyer- CAD provides a tracing paper to merchandising dept.
which is further delivered to the buyer. For sampling department:
PATTERN MAKING
DIGITIZING
STYLE/PATTERN
DESCRIPTION
ALTERATION
CUT ORDER PLANNING
COSTING AND FABRIC
ORDER
MARKER MAKING
PRINTING FOR CUTTING

39.  Pattern digitizing- In CAD, the pattern pieces are digitizing and a record of these
pattern is maintained for further correspondence.
 Alterations- If any alteration is required in the sample, according to the buyer, then it
is done in CAD.
 Grading- In CAD, different sizes such as XS, S, L and XL are made from medium
size by increasing or decreasing the garment dimension in equal proportion to make a
sampling “size-set”. For cutting department:
 Marker- An efficient cutting marker is provided to the cutting department by the
CAD for production.
APPLICATION OF CAD:
 Offered significant reduction in lead times.
 Reduction in labour costs for generating new styles & modifying existing ones.
 Achieving significant reductions in fabric utilization.
 Blocks images stored in computer.
 Grading technique replaced by expert system. The grading technique, developed by
grades over many years in the form of tables, has been entered in to the computer
for use in a primitive expert system, so that grading is now auto matched.
 Percentage wasted computed and displayed for each layout.
 Fabric pattern constraints incorporate in the program.
 Cutters replaced by CAD/CAM.
 Lay markers deskilled.
 Wages reduced.
 As the operator starts making the marker he/she can be supplied with a computed ratio
of cloth wasted.
MARKER MAKING
A marker is a diagram of precise arrangement of pattern pieces for the sizes of specific style
that are to be cut from a single spread.
Marker making is a process of developing a jigsaw diagram which is superimposed on the top

40. of a ground of a superimposed plies as a guide for cutting these plies.
It determines the most efficient layout of pattern pieces for a specific style fabric and
distribution sizes.
Cut order planning determines:
 How many markers are needed?
 How many of each size should be in each marker and the number of plies that will
be cut from each marker?
EFFICIENCYOF MARKER PLANNING
The marker plan measures the efficiency by the following formula:
Efficiency = Area of the pattern pieces*100
Total
Since the reduction in fabric cost is an important factor so the company should try and
discover the area for improvement in marker efficiency.
WAYS TO MAKE MARKER MOST EFFICIENT
PATTERN ENGINEERING An examination of the seams location to ensure the possible
placement of pattern in marker
HEMS ALTERATION ALLOWANCES Means dividing a large panel awkwardly shaped
pattern into two pieces to better accommodate in the marker
THE SELECTION OF FABRIC WIDTH The best width depends among other factor on
the cost of various fabric width/square meter, the typical number of sizes in a marker, the
potential pattern engineering changes at various width and the marker efficiency achieve.

41. WORK FLOW OF SPREADING AND CUTTING
SPREADING
Spreading is the process of smooth layering of fabrics in superimposed layers of specified
length. After fabric is received it is issued to spreading department for further processing.
Spreading is done with the type of fabric, print of fabric and marker issued by the CAD dept.
SPREADING
LAYERING
CUTTING MANNUAL/AUTOMATIC
TICKETING
FUSING
CHECKING
BUNDLING
TRANSFER TO PRODUCTION

42. PROCESSFLOW OF SPREADING:
Points to be consideredduring spreading process:
 Ply alignment – Ply alignment can be straight edge or centred edge.
 Ply tension – Tight spread and slack spread should avoid during the spreading
process otherwise pattern can undersized or oversized respectively. Tight edge
spread can be removing by putting notches or cutting the tight edge.
 Grain alignment – It should always consider during spreading process.
 Static charge – In spreading it refers to the electric charge generate during
FABRIC IS LOADED ON SPREADING MACHINE
PERFORATEDPAPER IS SPREAD ON SPREADING TABLE
VACCUME IS TURN-ON IN THE SPREADING TABLE
AUTOMATIC/MANNUAL SPREADING IS DONE
PROPER TENTIONIS MAINTAINED WHILE
WHEN FINISHED, VACCUM IS TURNED OFF
MARKER IS SPREDAOVER IT AND PASTED BY TAPE
AIR FLOW IS GIVEN FROM BOTTOM
TRANSFERED TO CUTTING TABLE

43. spreading.
 Surface direction – It means the pile direction or the design direction of the fabric
which is to be spread. It is very important factor in various types of spreading.
 Damage placement – Efficiency measured by economy with which damages are
removed. Fabric like lycra, spandex, wool blends are relaxed for 10 to 12 hrs, prior
to spreading.
CUTTING
Cutting means to separate out different garment process from the lay of fabric with the help
of cutting template and devices. It is done to get required shape in different no. or as a whole
to make a complete product. The first stage in the manufacture of garments is the cutting of
material into the necessary pattern shapes. These patterns are then joined to form a garment
when large amount of garment style has to be cut, a lay is created, which consist of many
plies of fabric spread one above the other. Now all the pattern pieces for all sizes are cut from
this lay. The main objective of the cutting dept. is the cutting of garment parts accurately and
economically and in sufficient value to keep the sewing room supplied with work.
Objectives:
 To maintain the quality of the cut components.
 To cut the raw material in required shape and quality.
 Availability of cut components on time.
Types of cutting devices:
 5 fusing machine
 16 straight knife
 6 edge cutters
 2 computer aided machines
 4 spreader
 1 round knife

44. BASIC WORK FLOW
Cutting department receives the order for cutting a garment style from the production
manager. Cutting order is an authorization by the production manager to cut a given amount
of styles, from the spreads. It comes in form of a package file that carries the following
details:
1. Sampling average, weight of garment (base fabric consumption only) and other trims
averages.
2. Measurement sheet.
3. Design worksheet of the garment.
4. Purchase order.
5. Fabric requisition sheet.
6. CAD mini marker.
7. Marker planning length of lay etc. size ratio and colours in which the patterns are to
be cut.
Along with this an approved sample and patterns of all sizes or the marker are also sent. The
cutting department checks the fabric status in the store and acquires it whenever the
production manager sends the cut order. Firstly 2-3 samples are cut from the pattern (medium
size) send by the CAD room to check for any amendments in pattern. These activities are
coordinate by the R&D dept. When the patterns are amended the production manager gets a
size set cut and these pieces are stitches and QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related
to pattern in the stitched and the QC on the floor locates any discrepancies related to pattern
in the stitched garments. Report with comments for alternation in the patterns is sent if
needed and the pattern master allocated to that style corrects the patterns accordingly. The
marker planning is also done afresh to incorporate the changes. Only when the production
manager is sure of the waist pattern, he will issue the job order for bulk cutting.
All the fabric is not cut at one go. Rather it is cut as and when required by the production
department against the job order. The cutting department calculates the fabric quantity
required the no. of pieces mentioned in job card using the average given by the CAD dept.
about 5% is cut more than required to make up for defective pieces or wastage for
production.

45. CUTTING AVERAGE
The cutting department duties are not limited to mare cutting of the fabric. It is responsible
for keeping control over the total consumption (grams) of fabric per garment piece cut this
consumption is more specifically defined in terms of cutting average. During marker
planning, the CAD rule sends theoretical consumption of fabric as per its marker, which is
calculated as following:
CUTTING AVERAGE = Area of one piece in the marker (cm square) * GSM of the fabric
10,000
Where,
AREA OF ONE PIECE = length of the fabric
Total no. of pieces in the marker
Cutting average is used to determine the cost of raw material that is fabric for each garment.
Hence it is very important that it is maintained during the bulk cutting also. The cutting
manager finds out his actual cutting average before the bulk cutting and tries to keep it as
close as possible to the average predicted by the CAD.
CUTTING SUB DEPARTMENTS
1. Layering and spreading
2. Fusing area
3. Cutting
4. QA department
5. Bundling and ticketing
TICKETING
Once the pattern pieces are cut by the cutting machine, they are then ticketed. Cut
components are grouped together as per their sizes and are taken to the checking table. Here
the cut components are inspected for any error. It is very important to take care that pieces cut
from two different bolts of fabric are not mixed up. This is because within a lot there bolt-to-

46. bolt variation in color shade.
FUSING
Fusing is also carried out in the cutting room itself. The parts to be fused are separated from
the bundle. The fusing material (like interlining) is cut according to the size of the
components to be fused. The component along with the cut fusing material are kept between
to paper sheets and the pack is passed through the fusing machine by means of temperature
and pressure fusing takes place at particular speed and for a particular time. The pack comes
out at the other end on conveyors and the pieces are removed and re- bundled.
Parameters affecting the fusing process:
 Pressure- Pressure applied to the fabric should be adequate so that even contact
between the interlining and outer cloth takes place and uniform heat is supplied to the
adhesive. Pressure should be adequate for the correct penetration of resin among the
fibres of fabric.
 Temperature-It is another important parameter. It depends upon the type of resin
used in fusing process. It should be high enough to change the dry thermoplastic resin
into a molten state so that it can flow properly between the fabrics. If temperature is
low it gives proper flow of resin and if it is high it gives too much flow of resin and
the resin will come out.
 Time- Time should also be adequate along with temperature and pressure. It should
be long enough so that melting and penetration of resin among the fibres of fabric can
takes place.
Types of fusing used in fusing:
 Woven fusing
 Non-woven fusing
 Knitted fusing

CHECKING
The ticked panels are now sending to the checking area for inspection of every individual

47. piece for any objectionable faults. Panels having faults like wrong grain line, in appropriate
size, incorrect shape and any fabric defects like holes, cuts, shade variation etc. that are not
within the acceptable quality parameters, are removed from the cut lay. A cutting component
checking report is filled for the total quantity cut, checked and approved. The rejected pieces
are sent back and equal no. of fresh panels are separately cut, replaced in the set and ticketed
with the same no. as the rejected ones. Other mend able faults are marked with an alteration
sticker and passed on. These will be spotted out during garment finishing or washing.
BUNDLING
The checked components of one style and in one size are now clubbed and bundled using
ties. The size of bundle depends upon the requirements of the production plant. Each bundle
will contain pieces of same style and same size only. These pieces are stored in racks made
beneath the cutting table. The cutting department issues the amount required by the
production dept. as and when ask for. The cut component may be issued in installment or all
at once as the need of the production dept. against the job order.
PRODUCTION PLANNING & CONTROL
PPC stands for Production Planning and Control. PPC controls the planning and give the
guidance from fabric to shipment. The main of PPC is to create the deadlines for each process
and coordinate with various departments. The PPC department receives the required
information such as style no./item description, fabric type and projected quantity from the PD
team. PPC team will send GSS along with the necessary details to the dept. or the R & D
report to be made. Based on the R & D report the construction feasibility and cost analysis of
the style will be done by the PPC department. The PPC dept. prepares a monthly capacity
budget for each production unit.
ROLE OF PPC
Feasibility study- Based upon
a. Type of machine

48. b. No. of machine
c. No. of process involved
d. Fabric type
e. Order quantity
Capacity study- Based upon
a. Availability study
b. Planned hours
c. Machinery capacity
d. Expect absenteeism and turn over
e. Planned efficiency
Budget planning- Based upon
a. Committed delivery date
b. Order quantity
Line planning- Based upon
a. SMV of the style
b. Efficiency of the operator
c. Efficiency of the line
d. No. of lines in the unit
Unit efficiency– Based upon
a. No. of lines
b. Lines efficiency
c. Production dates
Create deadlines- Create deadline for each process.
Periodic orders-
a. Order quantity

49. b. Style and fabric type
c. No. of process involved
d. Delivery date
Creating good relationship- Building the good relationships among the departments for
smooth process flow.
Receiving reports- Daily status report will be sent to the PPC by all dept. from the formats
which are created by PPC.
REPORTSGENERATEDUNDER PPC DEPARTMENT
I. On time shipment report-
a. Cut to ship
b. Order to ship
II. Efficiency report
III. Factory cost report
IV. PCD report
V. Fabric performance report
SEWING DEPARTMENT
The basic aim of an export house is to deliver value satisfaction of the customer at the profit
level.
Production is an act of producing a product i.e., quantity obtained by multiplying two
quantities together by making use of available resources.
To deliver quality with the quantity the ratio between input resources or raw material &
output goods and services is known as productivity are reciprocally related to each other.

50. Therefore an increase in production leads to fall in the cost per unit & rise in profit.
The production department is spread in two floors, Ground floor and the First Floor; both the
floors are specialized for their quality product. Ground Floor for basic garments and First
Floor is for jackets, blazers or other Heavy garments. Both floors have a common cutting
dept. so all the sizes of bundles are received from there only.
Production floor follows Assembly Line system. Following are steps to start a
production line:
 To study the production file.
 To study operation bulletin and set line accordingly.
 Manpower – tailors and helpers.
 Load and feeding lines.
 To arrange buffer or work-in-progress.
 Manufacturing.
 To make daily production and to achieve targets accordingly.
 To understand bottlenecks stage of production.
Working steps of production department:
 Shrinkage production pattern is issued to production floor from CAD dept.
 Ready patterns are made as per the requirement of production room.
 Cutting receives from cutting dept.
 Cross checking of cut panels with patterns.
 Bundling of cut panels is done.
 Operation wise feeding of cut panel into the line.
 Inline checkpoints.
 Output of line.
 Final checkpoints.
 Auditing of checked pieces.
Some important production points:
 Ratio between worker and machinery

51.  Bottleneck area to be considered
 In most of machine, guide is there
 They are using cartons to moving bundles
 They generate report for broken needle
 Complete assembly is divided in 6 parts, in end of every part there was a record sheet,
which shows early target input, actual input, target output and actual output.
According to this they can find out bottleneck area.
PRODUCTION CAN BE CARRIED OUT IN TWO WAYS
A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM
B. ASSEMBLY LINE PRODUCTION SYSTEM
A. UNIT PRODUCTION SYSTEM
In this system workflow in line one operator make one complete garment. It is very time
consuming and increase the manufacturing cost of a garment so it is not commonly used.
B. ASSEMBLYLINE PRODUCTIONSYSTEM
In this production system a garment is being stitched by no. of workers, therefore one part is
stitched by one worker and then passed on to other, due to which line gets setup. In the end
assembly of all the parts is done, in modern industries conveyor belts are used as a medium of
transportation of garment part from one worker to another. This system is very commonly
used in industry as it reduces the manufacturing cost increases the production.
SMART MRT SYSTEM
Smart MRT production system is modular chain system. A Smart MRT system is used for
assembly line system. Smart MRT saves the helper work and timing and this saving totally
for money. This is an electronic device and start by a PC system with software of smart
MRT. This machine cost is 1,00,00,000 crore. We includes in this machine operation
breakdown (station by station), 52 stations are there in this machine. Operations input and
output and operator log on and log off timing save the memory of MRT piece.

52. WASHING
Garments pass through various handling processes, which may render them dirty and stain,
thereby reducing their aesthetic appeal. To restore this aesthetic value, they are subjected to
cleansing process like washing and dry cleaning (PERC). Garments are sent for washing by
the production department as per the buyer’s requirement. Normally the fabrics are not asked
to go for wash by the buyer. Whether the fabric department may internally sent it a number of
other reasons.
 To control uneven shrinkage
 To remove bowing
 To lighten color shade
 To improve hand
 To even out color shade variations
 To remove printing smell
 To execute a dyeing program
TYPES OF WASHING
 Normal Wash
 Garment Wash
 Enzyme Wash
 Stone Wash
 Softener
 Bleach
 Acid Wash
 Monkey Wash
 Emery Balls Wash
 Silicon Balls Wash
 Sand Wash
PERC
PERC is commonly known as DRY CLEANING. Every garment is not subjected the PERC
or DRY CLEANING process. Only those garments, which have stubborn like that of oil and
rust, undergo this process. Mostly white or light color garment that more vulnerable to
staining are dry cleaned. PERC gives whiteness as well as shiny appearance also.
The solvent for stain removal used in PERC machine is per Chloroethane, which is specially
imported for stain for dry cleaning process. The 32 kg capacity machine stores about 300 ltr

53. of PERC oil in its reservoir. A no. of other chemicals like softener, optical brightening agent
(blancol CF, 5 min, 55 degree c, 3-5 ml/kg), hard stain (Zn) removers (Perclean P, 30 min),
anti-wrinkle agents (polysal RM), hard water stains remover(di-methyl formaldehyde) etc.
are also added. The process is carried out in presence of steam air pressure and at a specific
temperature normally 50-60 degree centigrade. The duration of the process depends upon the
type of garments, usually being about 20-30 min. when the machine is started, 2-3 min are
given for the oil to be purified through a distillation tank. Like this the oil is made ready to
the reuse for a no. of dry cleaning cycle. After every process the machine undergo self-
cleaning. About 2 % of PERC oil is wastage for one full lot in each cycle and the oil is
changed when it became enough dirty or coloured.
METHODS OF DRYING
The choice for the method of drying depends upon the dimensional stability of the fabric as
predicted by the fabric sourcing dept. accordingly there can be following methods:
Tumble drying-refers to the drying in a machine called Tumbler.
Drip-drying-refers to drying the garments by directly hanging them after washing i.e.
without hydro. For this kind of drying the load is removing from the washer just before the
water begins to drain for the final spin cycle. The garments are removing soaking wet and
drip dried.
Line drying-here, the garments after washing undergo for hydro and then hang for drying.
Flat drying-refers to drying the garment by laying it flat on a surface. It is usually carried
out for highly unstable fabric material.
WASHING MACHINERY
Horizontal washing machine- This machine is being used for washing garments and fabric
rolls. Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash, bleaching for dye, stripping are
done in this machine. Dyeing of greige fabric also takes place. The small capacity horizontal
washing machine is used for sampling department.

54. Front loading washing machine- This machine is used for washing only. All types of wash
like Normal wash, hard wash, enzyme wash, softener wash can be done in this too. Fabric
lots are not washed in this machine because the fabric lots get entangled in front loading
machine.
Hydro- The garments are wrung in these machines to remove excess water after washing.
The garments are spun in drums which rotate at high speed squeezing the water out of them.
This process takes about 3min.
Tumble dryer- This machine evaporates out all the left over water from the garments
making them completely dry. Tumbling is carried out for about half an hour depending upon
the fabric quality and a temperature of about 60 C which subsequently drops to 35-40 C as
the steam is exhausted.
PERC machine- This machine is used for dry cleaning process. It uses steam air pressure,
Per Chloro Ethane solution and a specified temperature for different types of fabric/garments.
All the process including washing, drain, hydro, drying and cooling occur in the same
machine.
FINISHING
After assembly, the garments now come for finishing- a key stage of garment manufacturing
process. Finishing is done to prepare the final garment according to the quality standards of
the buyer before packing it for shipment.

55. PROCESSFLOW OF FINISHING
GARMENT COMES FROM PRODUCTION
WASHING
THRAED CUTTING
INITIAL CHECKING AND
SPOTTING
ALTERATION
REIRONIN
G
FINAL CHECKING
PRESENTATION/FINAL IRONING
MEASUREMENT
SENT FOR PACKING

56. BASIC WORK FLOW
Washing, PERC- According to the buyer’s demand or as per garment buyer specifies recipes
and the method to be employed. The pieces are counted and sent with the wash or PERC
program.
Thread trimming- Pieces received from the washing department or from the assembly line
now come for thread trimming where trails of thread are cut off from the seams, buttons etc.
manually with the help of trimming scissor.
Spotting- During the assembly, the garment may acquire stains and other objectionable
marks which must be removed. This is done either in washing department or they are locally
‘spotted off’. Objectionable stains like that of chalk are spotted by means of spotting guns
containing mild solvent (e.g. water, benzene etc.). Harder and stubborn stains (like that of
tobacco, rust, dye, kerosene etc.) are sent to the spotting room where they are cleansed under
the spotting machine in a protective environment. If the spots still don’t go then they are sent
for PERC or dry cleaning.
General checking- Now the garment comes for general checking relating to overall stitching.
Here, first the general visual appearance is studied which includes shape of the garments;
balancing of the parts, color variations etc. Then any seaming defects are recognized for
example unmade seams, missed stitches etc. As per requirement the checked pieces are send
for mending to assembly line. The production manager gives a TOP sample to the checkers as
a visual aid.
Final thread cutting- Minute threads like those of labels, bar tack etc. are trimmed off to
give the neat look. Thread loosely sticking to the garments is also shed off, both in and out by
jerking the garment before it goes for pressing.
Pressing- Pressing in general is shaping the assembled material with pressure, with/without
heat and/or moisture, for further processing. In case of knits, this is important but not as
significant as in the case of woven because of their property of excellent recovery and fit.
Then the ironing of the garments takes place on the steam boards with steam ironing
machine. The patterns of various sizes of components are marked on the pressing table. The
component is placed on these pressing patterns of the size of the garments and then pressed.
This is done so that if there are any measurement discrepancies, they can be set or removed

57. by stretching or contracting while steam pressing the knits. This ensures one final and equal
look within one size of the garment.
Measurement and final checking- This is the final and most stringent done for garment
measurement, appearance, labels, trims etc. to study the final look and shape of the product
produced. Measurements are done according to the specification sheets and recordings are
made for any variations in the measurement chart. This gives an overall idea about the quality
of the garment being produced. Finally, all the good garments are counted recorded and sent
to the packing tables.
PACKAGING
Packing is the last stage where the finished garments are primed, organized, geared up for the
shipment to the buyer, the entire process from the way a garment will be folded to the final
labeling of the cartons is dictated by the buyer’s specifications. Buyers demand this so s to
achieve consistency in the packages, and also to provide a visual value to the product at retail
label within their vendor base. These instructions are standardized for a particular type of
garment and sent to the merchandiser in form of a packing manual. The merchandiser
forwards it to the packing in-charge along with a TOP (Top of Production) sample i.e.,
packed with the packing dimensions approved by the buyer. This is kept as a visual reference
for the packers.

58. PROCESSFLOW OF PACKAGING
BASIC WORK FLOW
As the garments are received from the finishing they are first sent to the packing table for
counting. This counting is done to maintain a record of how much goods have been received
in the packing department and how much already packed. Although packing and shipment are
not a part of the production department yet they affect the quality of the goods to a
considerable extent.
GARMENTS COME FROM INSPECTION
IT IS THEN FOLDED
1 OR 2 ARE PACKED TOGETHER
ALL PIECEC PUT IN TO CARTON
DETAILS ARE PASTED ON CARTON
CARTON IS SEALED
LOADED INTO TRUCKS
SENT FOR SHIPMENT

59. Packing is done in two stages:
1. Poly Bag packing
a. Tacking
b. Folding
2. Carton packing
PACKING NORMS
Packages are sent under licensing rules for shipment. The rules are also specified by the
individual buyer and are universal for their respective order. Some of such norms include:
1. All garments packed in individual poly bags.
2. Poly bag sticker on poly bags, which may be printed by the factory
3. Order must be completed (packed, ready for shipment) prior to bulk orders.
4. Order must be inspected and audited by the factory 100%.
5. Order must be of first quality, no repair or ungraded garments should be in license
shipments.
6. Order must be shipped 100% complete otherwise notified.
7. The packed goods are now ready to be passed through.

60. PROJECT WORK:
Monitoring of lost time and operator performance

61. AIM OF THE PROJECT
The aim of the project was to analyze the operations of sewing line and finding out the reason
of lost time.
Also to improve the operators performance.
WORK METHODOLOGY
After getting the objective, our first focus was to analyze the time being taken by each
operator for his/her operation. We spent 9 days for time study & observation for this in the
production line.
OBSERVATIONS
Before starting the project, the operation break down of the garment of the particular style
was observed and time study as well as capacity study was taken. The operation break down
was as follows:
S.No. Operation Operation Description SMV
1 Collar Mark collar panels for run stitch 0.32
2 Run stitch collar with inserting thread 0.68
3 Trim, turn and press collar 0.52
4 Topstitch on collar 0.52
5 Crease and mark collar band for attach 0.62
6 Attach collar with collar band 0.84
7 Trim, turn, press and mark collar for attach 0.62
8 Front Attach button hole placket 0.44
9 Sew button placket 0.4
10 Back Attach back yoke with back panel 0.34

62. 11 Mark and attach label on back yoke 0.28
12 Turn and topstitch back yoke 0.3
13 Sleeve Mark and cut V notch for the placket attach 0.68
14 Attach inner sleeve placket 0.42
15 Attach outer sleeve placket 0.42
16 Tack sleeve placket at button and finish placket box 1.29
16 A Tack sleeve placket at bottom and finish placket box 1.29
17 Mark and sew pleats on sleeve opening 0.3
18 Cuff Sew hem on upper cuff panel 0.4
19 Mark and run stitch cuff by inserting thread 0.74
20 Trim, turn and press cuff for attach 0.68
21 Assembly Join shoulder 0.6
22 Topstitch on shoulder 0.42
23 Mark and attach collar at neckline 0.78
24 Close collar and edge stitch collar all around 1.2
25 Attach sleeve at armhole 1.31
26 Top stitch at armhole 1.1
26 A Top stitch and tack at bottom 1.1
27 Sew side seam 0.30
28 Attach cuff at sleeve opening 0.78
29 Topstitch at cuff 0.66
30 Sew bottom hem 0.68
The below graphs are showing the Operators performance%. After 9 days of observation we
analyzed the reason for time wastage. After putting attention on operator the average
performance of operator increased from 23.98% to 26%.
The Date wise Graph is shown below.

63. 15
38
32
25
20
50
31
21 20
10 10
15
33
15 15
22 22
13
22
26 27 28 28
25
45
30
33
9 0
21
18 17
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart
21
36
21
17 18
40
27
22 20
11 10
13
31
18 18
28 27
13
18
28
23 25
18
30
50
40
48
36
0
30
22 20
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart

64. 13
38
25
22 20
40
27
20 20
11 10 12
30
18 18
30 29
11
18
28 27 27
18
32
51
35
45
38
0
31
25
21
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
19
41
26
23
20
47
30
23 22
15
11
15
39
21 19
45
35
15
19
31
25
35
20
38
65
60 61
48
0
38
32
40
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart

65. 18
40
25 25
21
9
29
21
18
15 15
40
22 23
55
62
15
20
43
40 38
20
48
74 75
65
62 63
0
48
36
41
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Chart Title
22
40
27 27
21
48
30
25 23
27
18 20
42
25
28
32
35
19
25
40
30
35
25
38 39
28
35
40
0
20
35
25
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart

66. 25
42
25
21 19
35
28
20 20
23
20 20
40
22 22
32
40
25 25
35
40
20
25
38
43
35 35
38
0
22
35
25
100
0
20
40
60
80
100
120
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart
25
30
25 25
20
35
25
20 20
25
20 19
38
25 25
30
33
20 21 22
25 24 23
20
35 34
30
38
0
19
30
25
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart

67. 20
32
21 21 21
35
28 27
21
18 20
35
25 23
30 30
20 20
25 24 23 25
32
38
30 28 30 29
0
21
33
21
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart
21
30
25 24
20
35
28
20 19 20 20 20
31
25 25
30 30
20 20
28
25
21
25
32 32 31 30 30
0
28 30
25
100
0
10
20
30
40
50
60
70
80
90
100
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33
Operator Performance Chart

68. PROJECT OUTCOME:
During the project we observed that initially most of the times were going waste in extra
other activities like drinking water etc.
It was observed the operators were not flexible to work in the new line setup that’s why their
performance was not up to the mark.
With the Help of this project the IE department of the AVS Creations Pvt Ltd put some
pressure on the operator not to waste the time on other activities and increased the average
performance of Operator from 23.9 to 26%.