2. COSMETICS FOR THE HAIR CARE
It include various preparations like
1. Hair preparation
2. Shampoos
3. Rinses & conditioners
4. Oily scalp hair tonics
5. Hairdressings
6. Fixatives
7. Bleaches
8. Depilatories
3. Some of the important examples of raw materials of herbal origin used in Hair
care products Are:
(a) Amla: it is obtained from the plant Emblica officinalis, Family Euphorbiaceae. Amla 's rich
in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides
nutrition to hair and also causes darkening of hair.
(b) Almond Oil: The almond oil is obtained from Prunus dulcis. The almond oil contains about
78% of fat. It contains very small amount super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty acids. It
stimulates thicker hair growth and prevents premature graying of hair.
(c) Shikakai: it is obtained from the plant Acacia concinna Linn. (Leguminosae) The fruits of
this plant are used for washing hair, for improving hair growth and also as an expectorant,
emetic, and purgative.
(d) Henna: Henna comes from the plant Lawsonia inermis family Lythraceae, which contain
additive molecule known as Lawsone, which when processed produces Henna powder. It is used
in coloring hair and also has anti-dandruff properties.
4. (e) Neem: Neem is commonly used in the treatment of dandruff as it produces antifungal and
antibacterial effects.
(f) Brahmi: (Centella asiatica, Family- Umbelliferae) is a creeping herb and is found in wet
damp and marshy places of north India, Brahmi contains essential oils, sterols, flavonol
glycoside and triterpenoid saponins. Brahmi oil is used in hair care formulations. It delays
graying of hairs.
(g) Bhringraj: Bhringraj (Eclipta alba Linn, Family- Asteraceae) is an annual or perennial plant
found in moist places throughout India. Bhringraj mainly contains alkaloid (ecliptine),
glycosides (B-amyrin), triterpenic acid and steroids (ecalbasaponins). Brahmi oil is very good
hair tonic and used in hair formulation for healthy, black and long hair.
(h) Gurhal: Gurhal (Hibiscus rosa sinensis, Family-Malvaceae) is a popular Indian garden
plant. It contains beta-sitosterol, campesterol, stigmasterol, cholesterol, erogosterol, flavonoids
and flavonoid, glycosides, lipids, citric and oxalic acids. Hibiscus petals stimulate thicker hair
growth and prevent premature graying, hair loss and scalp disorders. Petals extract acts as a
natural hair conditioner and used in hair washes
5. (i) Basil Oil: The Basil oil (Ocimum sanctum, Family- Labiatae) is obtained from leaves &
flowering tops of Ocimum Sanctum by steam distillation method. The basil oil contain
cineol, linalool, methyl chavicol, eugenol and methyl cinnamate. Basil oil stimulates and
promotes hair growth.
(j) Jojoba oil: Jojoba oil (Simmondsia chinensis, Family-Simmondiaceae) is obtained from seeds
of Simmondsia chinensis by cold pressed method. The Jojoba oil contains eicosenoicacid,
docosenoic acid and oleic acid. Jojabo oil is used as a revitalizing agent for hair.
(k) Sage oil: Sage oil (Salvia officinalis Linn, Family-Labiatae) is obtained from dried leaves of
Salvia officinalis Linn by steam distillation technique. The Sage oil contains a-pinene,cineole,
linalyl acetate, borneol and camphor. The sage oil is used as an anti dandruff agent.
6. HAIR CONDITIONER
The hair conditioners are those which are used for attractive, healthy looking hairs. They
provide softness, body and silky touch, control of flyaway and ease of styling to the hair
Broadly, they can be divided into following categories:
Moisturizers
Reconstructors
Acidifiers
Detanglers [type of leave-in conditioner (usually in convenient spray
form) that smooths your hair shaft so it's less likely to build up friction
and stick to other strands of hair ]
Thermal protectors
Glossers
Mainly they contain surfactants, lubricants, sequestrants,
antistatic agents (quaternary ammonium salts, aliphatic amines, phosphate
esters, and ethylene glycols) and preservatives.
7. Surfactants
Hair consists of around 97% of protein called keratin.
The surface of keratin contains negatively charged amino acids.
Hair conditioners thus contain cationic surfactants which do not washout
completely because their hydrophilic ends bind strongly to keratin.
The hydrophobic end of surfactant molecules then act as the new hair surface
Lubricants
Like fatty alcohols, panthenol dimethicone
Sequestrants
For better function in hard water . Improve the stability of products by
bonding with metal ions. agents include tetrasodium phosphates, sodium
hexametaphosphate, tripoly sodium phosphate, organophosphonic acids,
disodium EDTA
8. Evaluation Test:
Physicochemical Test
Net content
Colour, odour, physical state
Ash value at 600 deg
Non volatile matters at 105deg for two hours
Water content
pH (6-7.5)
Test for ammonia (it should be negative)
9. Performance Test
Wetting Test
Luster and softness
Conditioning effect on greasy and dry hair
Physiological Tests
Dermal Toxicity
Eye Toxicity
Cytotoxicity
Stability Test
10. Some Formulations
Jojoba Conditioner
Ingredients:
Rose floral water 1cup
Jojoba Oil 1 tbsp
Vitamin E Oil 10 drops
Procedure
Gently warm rose water and add jojoba oil.
Pour the mixture in a blender and add vitamin E
Blend at high speed for 2 mins
Method to Use
Wet hair with warm water
Pour the conditioner onto your scalp, massaging it thoroughly
For damaged hair, leave for several minutes
Rinse thoroughly with warm water
11. Rosemary Hair conditioner
It contains birch sap, jojoba, chamomile, green tea, vegetable protein, nettle, and
rosemary.
Birch sap has astringent and antibacterial properties.
Jojoba has hardening effect of sebum in the scalp
Green tree and rosemary have powerful antioxidant properties
Flower and Plant Deep Hair Conditioner
It contains jojoba oil, avocado oil, pure essential oils of ylang ylang, carrot seed,
birch, peppermint and clove.
It is used for dry and brittle hair
In both conditions it nourishes the scalp, giving relief to dandruff
and eczema while promoting hair growth
12. HAIR DYES
Hair Dye or Hair Colour is used to change the colour of human hair
A variety of hair colours are available may be due to the combination of
pheomelanins and eumelanins, the quantity of the pigment present, the
different sizes of the granules and their distribution in the pigments
Four most common classifications of hair dyes are ‘temporary’, ‘semi-
permanent’, ‘demi-permanent’ (or ‘deposit only’) and ‘permanent’.
Permanent Hair Colour
Through use of oxidation dyes
Mechanism of oxidation dyes:
1. Oxidation of 1,4-diaminobenzene derivative to the quinone state
2. Reaction of this diamine with a coupler
3. Oxidation of resulting compound to give the final dye
13. Semi-Permanent Hair Dye
Has smaller molecules than temporary dyes and therefore able to partially
penetrate the hair shaft.
For this reason, the colour will survive repeated washing
It contains very low levels of developer, peroxide or ammonia
Demi-permanent Hair Dye
It is a permanent hair color containing an alkaline agent other than ammonia (e.g.
ethanolamine, sodium carbonate) and while always employed with a developer, the
concentration of H2O2 in the developer may be lower than the permanent hair color
Temporary Hair Colour
The pigment molecules are large and cannot penetrate the cuticle layer.
The colour particles remain absorbed or adhered to the hair shaft and easily
removed with a single shampooing.
14. Ideal Properties of hair Colours
The formulation of hair colorant should be stable
They should colour the hair evenly
The shaft of the hair must not be damaged
Must be non-toxic
Must impart stable colour to the hair
Must be non-irritant and non-sensitizing
The colored hair must be unaffected by air, water, sunlight, sweat, shampoos,
gels, lotions etc.
The natural moisture of the hair must not be lost
They should maintain texture and gloss of the hair
The pH of the dye should be far from neutral (similar as skin pH)
and temperature during application should not exceed 40 deg.
15. Herbal Hair Colour
Natural hair dye is extracted from plants and vegetables.
It is usually used in a pure extract form and does not
contain ammonia, resorcinol and phenylenediamine used
in commercial dyes
They are non-toxic
They do not harm the hair structure and may even help
in hair conditioning and moisturizing
Less expensive
16. VARIOUS HERBS USED IN HAIR DYE
Colours Plant Name Botanical Name Family Part Used
Red/Brown Henna Lawsonia inermis Lythraceae Leaves
Walnut Juglans regia Juglandaceae Leaves, nuts
Catechu Acacia catechu Fabaceae Heartwood
Blondes/ Yellow Cassia Cassia obovata Fabaceae Leaves
Catechu Ourouparia
gambir
Rubiaceae Leaves
Saffron Crocus sativus Iridaceae Flowers
Chamomile Anthemis nobilis Asteraceae Flowers
Rhubarb root Rheum
rhaponticum
Polygonaceae Roots
17. VARIOUS HERBS USED IN HAIR DYE
Colours Plant Name Botanical Name Family Part Used
Black vashma Indigo (partially
fermented)
Fabaceae Leaves
Karchak Ricinus communis Euphorbiaceae Beans
Hibiscus Hibiscus rosa
sinensis
Malvaceae Flowers
Blues Indigo Indigofera tinctoria Fabaceae Leaves
Woad Isatis tinctoria Brassicaceae Fresh leaves
18. General Method for herbal color preparation
Create an strong infusion
Add enough clay to form a smooth paste
Apply to hair in small sections, starting at the scalp and
working towards the ends
Cover your hair with plastic to retain heat
Rinse with tepid water and let hair dry
Repeat as needed
19. Method for preparation of some Hair dyes/ Colors
Dyes with Indigo
Dye obtained form the processing of the plant’s leaves
They are soaked in water and fermented in order to convert the
glycoside indican naturally present in the plant to blue dye indigotin
The precipitate from the fermented leaf solution is mixed with a
strong base such as lye [lye is an alkali metal hydroxide traditionally obtained by leaching wood ashes, or a strong
alkali which is highly soluble in water producing caustic basic solutions. "Lye" most commonly refers to sodium hydroxide (NaOH), but
historically has been used for potassium hydroxide (KOH)],
pressed into cakes, dried and powdered.
The powder is then mixed with various other substances to produce
different shades of blue and purple
20. Dye with Henna
The leaves of henna are powdered and paste is made with the
hot water.
Then directly applied on hair and warm towel is wrapped around
the head to enhance the coloring effect
It give reddish colour due to presence of lawsone which imparts
color
Dye with Chammonile
The flowers are used to make the dye.
The paste form is to be made with hot water and then applied to
the hair.
21. Evaluation Test for Hair dyes
Performance Test
1. Color uniformity of the dye
2. Compatibility of color with hair
3. Extent of reaction in case of permanent dye
4. Washability of color
5. Color stability
Physiological Test
1. Dermal Toxicity
2. Eye Toxicity
3. Cytotoxicity
4. Stability Test
22. Physicochemical Test
1. Net content
2. Ash value at 600deg
3. Non-volatile matters at 105deg
4. Effect on hard water
5. pH
6. Assay for permanent dyes
7. IR spectroscopy
8. Determination of surfactants
23. Skin Irritation and Allergy
In certain individuals, hair colorants may cause skin irritation ad allergy
Symptoms: Redness, sores, itching, burning sensation and discomfort
Patch Test: small quantity of preparation applied on skin for a period of 24 hours.
If irritation exists product should not be used
The toxic effect test
Studied in animals to know about the long term effects of these formulations
Skin Discoloration
Skin is made up of same type of keratinized protein as hair
Thus, drips, slips and extra hair tint around the hairline can result in patches of
discolored skin.
To prevent this Vaseline or oil based preparation should be applied
It is recommended that latex gloves be worn to protect the hands
24. Some Market formulations
Formulation of natural dye with mordant
30g aq extract of Cymphomandra betacea containing 35% flavonoid and 10%
tannins
30g aq extract of Tagetes erecta containing 20% carotenoid
40g Aloe vera gel as natural mordant containing 0.3% polysaccharide and 98.5%
water were mixed together
Kali Mehndi
It contains mehendi Powder, Amla, Ritha, Shikakai, Bhringraj and other herbs
It gives relief in common hair problems like hair loss, hair breakage, dandruff
and hair dryness
Rinse hair after 60-90 minutes with clean water
25. Naaz Herbal Hena Powder
It is available in black, brown and burgundy colours.
It contains henna, amla, shikakai, tulsi, reetha, kapur, bhringraj and other
herbs.
It fights dandruff, gives hair uniform and lasting colour leaving them extra silky
and feather soft without any side effects
Super Vasmol Amla natural black and natural brown-herbal
powder hair dyes:
It contains Amla and Bhringraj for revitalizing and darkening the hair,
preventing dandruff and hair fall.
Henna and hibiscus added which nourish and condition the hair to make it
look shiny and lustrous
It is available in three shades: natural black, natural brown and chest nut
colour
26. Natural Brunette Hair Dye
Contains triple strength black coffee
Red Hair Colour Enhancer
Contains ½ cup beet juice and ½ cup carrot juice
Natural colour restorer for gray hair
Contains ½ cup organic dried sage and ¼ cup organic dried
rosemary
Chamomile Brightener for blonde hair
6 organic chamomile tea bags, ½ cup plain yogurt and oil of
lavender
27. HAIR SHAMPOO
These are viscous cosmetic preparation containing surfactant in a
suitable form – liquid, solid or powder – which when used under
specified conditions will remove surface grease, dirt and skin
debris from hair shaft and scalp without adversely affecting the
user.
28. Requirements of Shampoo
1. It should effectively and completely remove dust or soil,
excessive sebum or other fatty substances and loose corneal
cells from the hair
2. It should produce a good amount of foam to satisfy the
psychological requirements of the user
3. It should be easily removed on rinsing with water
4. It should leave the hair non-dry, soft, lustrous and good
manageability with minimum flyaway
5. It should impart a pleasant fragrance to hair
6. It should not cause any side effects or irritation to eyes or skin
7. It should not make the hands rough or chapped
30. Ingredients used in Shampoos
Surfactants
Anionic surfactants are mostly used in shampoos (good
foaming properties)
The hydrophilic portion carries a negative charge which results
in superior foaming, cleaning and result attributes.
Non-ionic surfactants have good cleansing properties but do
not have sufficient foaming power.
Cationic surfactants are toxic and are hence not used.
However, they may be used low concentration in hair
conditioners
32. Herbs used in Hair Loss treatment
Plant Name Botanical Name Family Part used
Aloe Aloe vera Liliaceae Leaves
Arnica Arnica montana Asteraceae Flower
Chamomile Anthemis nobilis Asteraceae Flowers
Fenugreek Trigonella foenum
graceum
Fabaceae Seeds
Licuorice Glycyrrhiza glabra Leguminosae Roots
Marigold Calendula officinalis Calenduleae Flowers
Curry plat Murraya koenigii Rutaceae leaves
Rose mary Rosamarinus
officinalis
Lamiaceae leaves
34. Various herbs used in shampoo that are used for various conditions
Marigold, Aloe vera: for all types of conditions
Sandalwood, rosemary: for dry hair
Lavender, lemon, mint: for oily hair
Henna, hibiscus, curry leaves: for hair growth
Henna, amla: for permanent greying
Amla, hibiscus: for maintaining hair color
Amla, Tulsi, Neem, Soapnut: For dandruff
Catmint: for itchy scalp
35. Some formulations for herbal shampoo
Lavender Rosemary hot oil treatment
Ingredients: ½ cup organic soybean oil or sunflower oil, 5 drops of
rosemary oil and 10 drops of lavender oil
Procedure: mix all ingredients well. Warm slightly and apply mixture to
damp hair. Wrap hair in plastic wrap and apply a hot towel for 20 mins.
Then shampoo
Horse Tail Hair Rinse
Ingredients: 2 ½ teaspoons dried horsetail
Procedure: steep horsetail in boiled water for 20 mins. Shampoo hair
and rinse thoroughly. Pour horsetail rinses through hair and leave for 10
mins. Rinse with clear water.
36. Natural Shampoo for normal Hair
Ingredients: ¼ cup water, ¼ cup liquid castile soap, ½ teaspoon organic sunflower
oil
Procedure: mix together all ingredients. Store in a bottle, use as you would use
any shampoo, rinse well
Dry shampoo for oily hair
Ingredients: Cornstarch
Procedure: Dip large soft makeup brush cornstarch and dust through oily spots in
hair. Allow to sit for five minutes then brush out with a natural boar bristle brush.
Repeat as necessary.
37. Evaluation Test for Hair Care Products
BIOPHYSICAL METHODS
Wet and dry combing Combing out force
Hair gloss test Hair volume test
Curl retention Long lasting hold
Colour assessment Friction force
IN-VIVO METHODS
Toleberability tests Anti-dandruff
Hair loss Hair growth
Shaving studies Consumer test
38. Evaluation Tests for herbal Shampoos
1. Physical Appearance 2. Net contents
2. Determination of pH 4. Percentage of solid content
5. Rheological evaluation 6. Dirt dispersion
7. Cleaning action 8. Surface Tension
9. Detergency Ability (Finger method, sponge method) 10. Surface characterization
11. Stability studies
12. Foam evaluation and foam stability (ross miles test, cylinder shake, perforated disk)
13. Safety study (skin sensitization, eye irritation test)
14. Antimicrobial activity
39. HAIR OILS
Also called Hair tonics.
They are herbal extracts mixed in a carrier oil base.
Some hair oils use multiple herbs and carrier oils such as coconut oil,
sweet almond oil, walnut oil, olive oil, mineral oil, jojoba oil, wheat germ oil
Some herbs used in herbal hair oils:
Chinese Hibiscus (Hibiscus rosa sinensis)
Stimulate hair follicles, increase hair follicle size and increase hair growth
Brahmi (Bacopa monnieri)
It activates proteins responsible for hair growth
40. Jatamansi (Nardostachys jatamansi)
It increases hair growth in alopecia caused by chemotherapy
Ginseng (Panax ginseng)
It encourages hair growth by inhibiting 5a reductase
Aloe (Aloe vera)
Along with castor oil boosts hair growth and adds volume
Amla (Phyllanthus emblica)
It stimulates hair growth and prevents hair loss and premature graying due
to presence of high percentage of vitamin C
41. Coat Buttons (Tridax procumbent)
Promotes hair growth on its own and in synergy with other herbs
Bhringraj (Eclipta prostrata)
Its high protein and Vitamin E content restores hair growth and reduces
dandruff.
The oil also has anti-inflammatory properties which reduces psoriasis or
other skin irritations on the scalp and improves circulation to the scalp
