cosmos guideline

1. HERBAL COSMETICS
Laxmidhar sahoo
Assistant professor
RIPS,Berhampur

2. Nowadays, Herbal cosmetic is growing rapidly
as most women prefer natural products rather
than chemicals products for their personal
care.
Herbal cosmetic contains natural nutrients to
improve and provide consumers satisfaction
due to relatively fewer side effects compared
to synthetic cosmetics

3. SPECIAL SKIN PROBLEM & HERBAL REMEDIES
SKIN
PROBLEM
FEATURES REMEDIES
Chapped Skin Rough texture which sometimes causes
the skin to crack
Application of oils of St.John Wort,
Olive Oil or
Mashed Avocado after bathing or
massaging
with warm Olive Oil, Mustard or
Coconut Oil
half an hour before bathing
Withered Skin Very tough texture, full of wrinkles Carrot Juice along with honey
Sallow Skin No color look, skin becomes lusterless
and shows lack of vitality
React quickly to both heat and cold.
Inclusion of Vitamin B in diet.
Sensitive Skin Sunburns and wind burns occur easily.
Skins become dry delicate and prone to
allergic reactions
Use of essential oil of Chamomile,
Lavender Neroli, Rose and Sandal
Wood Oil.
Acne Pockets of infection that manifest as red
sores, boils and pimples.
Usage of Red Sandal Wood Oil.

4. List of Plants with Cosmetic Application for Skin Care
Scientific Name Common Name Part Uses Uses
Calendula
ofjicinalis
(Compositae)
Marigold Flower Skin care, Anti-
inflammatory,
Antiseptic Creams
Azadiracta indica
(Meliaceae)
Neem Leaf Antiseptic, reduce
dark spots,
Antibacterial
Aloe vera
(Liliaceae)
Aloe vera Leaf Moisturizer, Sun
screen, Emollient
Centella asiatica Brahmi Plant Wound healing,
Reduce Stretch marks
Panax ginseng
(Araliaceae)
Ginseng Root Stimulate blood flow
to skin

5. Dry skin treatment:
1. Coconut oil: Cocos nucifera( Arecaceaeis) excellent
as a skin moisturizer and softener
2. Sunflower Oil: Helianthus annuus (Asteraceae)
Sunflower oil contains lecithin, tocopherols,
carotenoids and waxes. In cosmetics, it has smoothing
properties and is considered noncomedogenic
3. Aloe:A native of southern Africa, the aloe vera plant
has fleshy spiny-toothed leaves and red or yellow
flowers 60. It is an ingredient in many cosmetics
because it heals moisturizes, and softens skin

6. Anti-Aging Treatment
1. Golden Root
Rhodiola rosea (Crassulaceae) grows in cold regions of the
world. The Rhodiola root has long been used in the
traditional medical systems in Europe and Asia and
thought to have anti
oxidative properties
2. Carrot (Daucus carota):Carrot seed oil is indicated for
anti-aging, revitalizing and rejuvenating . As it promotes
the formation of new cells and helps in reducing wrinkles.
It acts as Natural toner and rejuvenator for the skin.
3. Ginkgo:Ginkgo biloba(Ginkgoaceae):increase skin
moisture-retention and smoothness

7. Skin Protection
Green Tea:(Camellia Sinensis) catechins in green
tea are some 20 times stronger in their
antioxidant powers than even vitamin E.
•against the revaging effects of the sun
Turmeric: (Curcuma longa)Traditionally women
rub turmeric on their cheeks to produce a natural
golden glow

8. Hair cosmetics
1. Amla:
Emblica Officinalis,(Euphorbiaceae).
Amla is rich in vitamin C, tannins and minerals such as
phosphorus, iron and calcium which provides nutrition to
hair and also causes darkening of hair.
2. Hibiscus(Hibiscus sabdariffa): consists of calcium,
phosphorus, iron,vitamin B1, riboflavin, niacin and vitamin
C, used to stimulate thicker hair growth and prevents
premature graying of hair.
3. Almond Oil (Prunus dulcis): The almond oil basically
contains about 78% of this fat. This oil contains very small
amounts of super-unsaturated Omega-3 essential fatty
acids . It proves to be very nourishing, and softens and
strengthens the hair.

9. 4. Shikakai: (Acacia concinna) is a medicinal plant
that grows in tropical rainforests of southern Asia.
The fruits of this plant are used for washing hair,
for improving hair growth.

10. Plants Traditionally Used in Oral Hygiene
A well-known example, Salvadora persica L.
(miswak or siwak), is the most common traditional
source of the material for oral hygiene.
The antibacterial effect of Salvadora persica
extracts against bacteria in dental plaque is well
documented throughout the world
Benzyl isothiocyanate and its derivatives were
identified as the major antibacterial component,
and their amount reflects the efficacy of the miswak

11. Green tea, the leaves of Camellia sinensis is a popular
drink that has a beneficial physiological effect.
It is widely consumed all over the world and proven to
have antioxidant and antibacterial effects against bacterial
colony of dental plaque.
It has been found that green tea polyphenols can
eliminate halitosis by modifying the odorant sulfur
components.
Oxidative stress and inflammation in the oral cavity, due
to heavy cigarette smoking and alcohol consumption, also
decreased in the presence of green tea polyphenols

12. 1. Neem (Azadirachta indica), which is widely used as
chewing stick throughout the world.
The stems of Azadirachta indica have anti-inflammatory
and antimicrobial activities due to the presence of
substances such as nimbin and nimbidine as
photochemical.
2. In case of mango twigs (Mangifera indica), mangiferin,
which is the natural C-glucoside xanthone, has been
reported in various parts of the plant such as leaves, fruits,
stem, bark, and roots.
Antioxidant, radioprotective, immunomodulatory,
antitumor, antiallergic, anti-inflammatory, antidiabetic, and
antimicrobial properties of mangiferin are reported in
many studies.
It has also therapeutic potential in both the prevention
and treatment of periodontitis

13. 3.Melaleuca alternifolia (tea tree) containing
dental gel found to be more effective in
decreasing the dental biofilm and the number of
bacterial colonies.
4. Recent researches suggest that licorice
extracts and its phytochemicals have beneficial
effects in oral hygiene and oral diseases.
These effects have been attributed to the
antimicrobial, and anti-inflammatory properties
of its constituents

14. Challenges in herbal formulation
Ethnic Factors
It includes the factors that affect the nature of the drug at
the time of cultivation of herbs.
• Light
• Temperature
• Atmospheric humidity
• Altitude
• Rainfall
• Soil
Any variations in the above factors affect the nature of the
drug resulting in the alteration of the number of active
constituents present in the herbs which becomes
challenging while formulating herbal cosmetics.

15. Regulatory status of herbal drugs
WHO guidelines state that both manufacturers and
regulatory bodies should share equal responsibility to
assure the quality of herbal products .
It is the duty of regulatory authorities to establish
some ground guidelines on various aspects of quality
assurance, data evaluation, dossiers and evaluation of
post-marketing compliance of products with the
specifications set out by the manufacturers as well to
comply with GMP guidelines

16. It is of chief importance that the manufacturers
firmly stick to good agricultural and further good
collection practices (GACP), GMP and good
laboratory practice (GLP) standards, to establish
proper specifications for their finished products,
raw materials, and intermediates and to gather
whole documentation on the herbal development
and testing

17. Product certification
The main objective of the certification of a product is
to check the ingredients including raw materials,
processes, production and manufacturing, raw
materials storage, packaging and labeling, energy
resources usage and waste disposal management,
also the certification of manufacturers to certify the
quality of the end product.
The certification agencies execute standards that
should be satisfied by the manufacturer, to be able to
ensure the quality of the final product

18. The major certification agencies for natural
and organic products are :
1.Bundesverb and Deutscher Industrie und Handel
sunternehmen(BDIHS)
2. Cosmetics organic standard (Cosmos) in European
Union (EU )
3. ECOCERT in france:
4.National association for sustainable agriculture,
australia (NASAA) in australia
5.Instituto Biodinâmico de Certificações (IBD) in Brazil
6.Quality assurance international (QAI) in the united
states of America:

19. Quality control of herbal drugs and
cosmetics
Several factors influence the quality of herbal product. They
are;
1. Herbal drugs are a combination of several constituents.
2. In most cases, the active principle(s) is/are, unidentified.
3. Analytical methods that are suitable or standard references
may not be available commercially .
4. Plant actives are chemically and naturally inconstant.
5. The raw material source and quality are unstable .
6. The methods of collecting, drying, storage, transportation,
and processing have a variable effect on the final product.
7. Firm guidelines have to be followed for the production of a
herbal product with superior quality. Proper plant
identification, phytochemical screening, and standardization
can be the criteria to look for .

20. Processing and GMP
Good Manufacturing Practice (GMP) is a code of
training utilized by the medical and health-
related industries incorporating the
pharmaceutical business with an end goal to
keep up the most elevated standards of value in
the improvement, manufacture, and control of
therapeutic products
Toxicity of traditional herbal drugs : another
challenge as many herbs shows toxic effect

21. Guidelines by COSMOS (Cosmetics
Organic and Natural Standard)
This Standard has been developed at the
European and international level by BDIH
(Germany), COSMEBIO & ECOCERT (France),
ICEA (Italy) and SOIL ASSOCIATION (UK) who
are the founders of the COSMOS-standard
AISBL (an international non-profit association
registered in Belgium) in order to define
common requirements and definitions for
organic and/or natural cosmetics.

22. OBJECTIVES
The COSMOS-standard's ultimate objective is to address
the major issues essential to the environment and
welfare of man on the planet.
For practical purposes, it aims to ensure the transition
between today’s and tomorrow’s possibilities of
technological advances to promote the development of
cosmetics ever more natural and organic.
This is necessary for the respect of consumers who
must be informed clearly and transparently so that they
can themselves be actors for sustainable development

23. The COSMOS-standard covers in detail all aspects of the sourcing,
manufacture, marketing and control of cosmetic products. The
key sections of the COSMOS-standard are chapters 6 – 11.
6. ORIGIN AND PROCESSING OF INGREDIENTS
Standards for water, minerals and ingredients of mineral origin,
physically processed agro-ingredients,​ chemically processed agro-
ingredients and other ingredients.
7. COMPOSITION OF TOTAL PRODUCT
How to calculate the organic content of complex ingredients and
how much organic content is required in products under organic
certification

24. 8. STORAGE, MANUFACTURING AND PACKAGING
To ensure adequate cleanliness, hygiene and
traceability throughout all processes, and to ensure
that packaging respects the environment.
9. ENVIRONMENTAL MANAGEMENT
Details the requirements for care of the environment
throughout the manufacturing process, and
managing, minimizing and recycling waste.

25. 10. LABELLING AND COMMUNICATION
Defines comprehensive requirements for clear
product labelling and company advertising, to
ensure all necessary information for consumers
and no misleading claims.
11. INSPECTION, CERTIFICATION AND CONTROL
The requirements for all products, their
ingredients and their manufacturing to be
certified by a competent body, authorized by
independent accreditation.

26. Preservatives (as per COSMOS standard)
This following ingredients that are temporarily allowed and
will be reviewed on a regular basis with the aim of
removing those where compliant alternatives exist. These
ingredients cannot be certified as organic.
Preservatives and denaturing agents from petrochemical origin (non natural
ingredients – NNI)
Ingredient Restrictions
Benzoic Acid and its salts -
Benzyl Alcohol -
Salicylic Acid and its salts -
Sorbic Acid and its salts -
Dehydroacetic Acid and its salts -
Denatonium Benzoate and Tertiary Butyl
Alcohol and other denaturing agents for
alcohol (excluding phthalates)
Only as denaturing agent for ethanol –
where required by law

27. INCI
name
Product type/Limit for the use Maximum concentration Restriction
Benzethonium
chloride
(a)Rinse-off products(b)Leave-on
products other than oral products 0.1%
-
Benzoic acid and its
sodium salt
(a)Leave-on products other than
oral products
(b)Oral products
(a)2.5% (as acid)
b) (c)1.7%(as acid)
-
Chlorobutanol - 0.5% Not to be used in aerosol
products
Dimethyl oxazolidine - 0.1% pH>6
Ethyl lauroyl
arginate HCl
(a)Mouthwashes
(b)Other products
(a)0.15%
(b)0.4%
(a)Not to be used in prep-
arations for children under 10
years of age
(b)Not to be used in lip, oral
products(other than
mouthwashes), and spray
products.
Phenoxy
isopropanol
Rinse-off products 1% -

28. Why is preservation important?
Most cosmetic care products must be protected
against microbial growth – for both consumer
protection and formulation stability reasons. Growth
of microorganisms might result in degradation of
ingredients and consequently in deterioration of
physical and chemical stability.
Objective to use preservatives in cosmetics:
Kill or inhibit the growth of micro-organisms, and
Protect a formula from microbial contamination
Their main function is to protect and
maintain the integrity of product -
efficacy, fragrance, appearance, and
stability - during its life by providing a
preservative efficacy against microbial
contamination.

29. Preservative Type Features Examples
Organic acids Effective with fungi but offer least protection against bacteria
Effective only in acidic conditions (pH 5.0)
Need an aqueous base, in order to be used
Considered natural alternatives while developed synthetically
Benzoic acids and salts
Sorbic acid and derivatives
Salicylic Acid and
derivatives
Formic acid and derivatives
Alcohols and Phenols Effective against a wide range of microbes
Combination of phenethyl alcohol with caprylyl glycol shows a
synergistic antimicrobial effect
Phenoxyethanol
Benzyl alcohol
Dichlorobenzyl alcohol
Phenethyl alcohol
Parabens Mostly used preservatives with cosmetics (both rinse-off and leave-
on)
Cost-effective
Rendered inactive in combination with polysorbate emulsifiers
Good protection against fungal growth and gram-positive bacteria
Methylparaben
Ethylparaben
Propylparaben
Butylparaben
Urea Compounds /
Formaldehyde
releasing
preservatives
Effective in fighting bacteria but weak fungal efficacy
Low levels required for use as these release formaldehyde needed for
preservation
Can cause skin irritation / allergic reactions
Imidazolidinyl Urea
Diazolidinyl Urea
Bronopol
Quaternary
Ammonium
Compounds (QAC)
Antimicrobial activity of the QACs is a function of the length of the
N-alkyl chain
Optimum activity against Gram-positive bacteria and yeast is
obtained with chain lengths of 12 to 14 alkyls
Behentrimonium Chloride
•Cetrimonium Bromide &
Cetrimonium Chloride
•Laurtrimonium Bromide &
Laurtrimonium Chloride
•Benzalkonium Chloride